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/r/Flooring's
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Flooring:
![[Upgraded Version] Crystal Clear 1/5" Thick 47" x 35" Heavy Duty Hard Chair Mat, Can be Used on Carpet or Hard Floor](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51MrvqlOeEL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular reviews in /r/Flooring:
You should use a concrete wheel on concrete. using the right wheel for the right material is faster, safer, will work better, and won't wreck your nice tile blade. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078BY7S5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_0C59F6Z35VXJRCN9S5CG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
To keep costs as low as possible, treat it as containing asbestos. Mist some water in the area of disturbance asap with a P100 half mask respirator on. The black mastic is adhesive and generally bonds the asbestos well with minimal suspension of fibres.
Homeowners are entitled to do their own asbestos abatement. To protect your health and safety (and those who come into the area) please read my ebook for DIY removal complete with infographics and steps to safely remove the vinyl asbestos tile (VAT).
https://www.amazon.com/Asbestos-Exposed-definitive-identification-including/dp/B08H566HPS
I used something like this for a similar situation! :-)
I'm assuming, since you are replacing the flooring, you own the property. Ever considered putting some holes in your walls and installing the cables that way?
You can even get plates with a female CAT 6 connection on both ends, so you wouldn't have to make your own cables/connections. You just run the cables threw the walls from one room to the other. Or even just run one cable from the existing router/modem, threw the wall to a plate in each office room, and then run a cheap router as an access point, so supply each room with 3 ethernet ports and wifi.
Otherwise there are companies that make baseboard cable channels (raceways). Some that are even similar to quarter round, made of PVC, and are paintable.
I've tried every kind of knee pad and I have them all. They always move around, they always get sweaty underneath. Then I found these https://www.amazon.com/Caterpillar-Trademark-Regular-Sizes-Earth/dp/B00789UASI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=cat+knee+pants&qid=1602985812&sr=8-1 pants with a built in knee pad in the pants. I love these things, these are the only work pants I wear. The knee pads in it are so lightweight and thin you hardly notice them when you are walking, but it's just enough cushion for the knee when you are crouching, working. Can't recommend the built in knee pad pants enough
For grout haze use sulfamic acid crystals. Here is a link from Amazon. Make sure to read the direction completely before starting, and don’t forget to rinse the floor with hot water when you’re done.
Aqua Mix Sulfamic Acid Crystals - 4 lb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ANXVEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bO0SEbJ4R238N
It's unclear how the water is coming in. Yours could be bad drainage. But in my case, it was simply rain blowing in onto the door and dripping down. A weather strip with a cap fixed it for me. You have a weather strip, but it may not be doing the job.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M58YUU
Could be that the plank in the corner there at that angle (right of the gap) is too tightly cut, so it's preventing it from moving to the left to close the gap. Or the flooring wasn't completely shimmed straight, so the floor is slightly to the left, behind you.
If it's too tight in the corner, you could try to take the small base molding off, and see if you can cut a little off it with an oscillating multitool. Probably be tricky, because (if this is the issue) the problem area could be under the door frame.
If it's that the whole floor is over to the left too far in that room, you could try to move it with a flooring jack. You'd take the base molding off that left wall, find where a stud in the wall is closest to that far left corner, and try to move the whole floor in that room over to the right enough to close the gap. You want it at the stud (and preferably a scrap piece of flooring behind it), so there is less of a chance of blowing a hole through the drywall, as it's going to be a lot of pressure.
Looking at the picture more, I noticed that the short end connection to the left of the door frame looks like it's ever-so slightly tighter on the left side than the right. That would further indicate that it's more likely that the flooring in the room is too far over to the left, rather than the piece being too tight at that door frame corner piece.
If you hired someone to install it for you, I'd recommend contacting them to come out and fix it.
I use a kit like this for chip repairs. Your plank pattern/color will require some mixing. The heating elements are garbage so I just use a lighter to melt the wax.
Wow! Thanks for the follow-up! It will be valuable for others searching the same situation! Ive been using a simple plastic floor mat from amazon. It offers a bit of protection, and Im happy with it. Its only been a few months, but so far, so good.
You can probably find them for cheaper across the web, or, at your local flooring store. But these sit on your shin, so you can "sit/squat" properly on the floor and be comfortable.
Used mine for years. Took a little bit to get used to, but, the most comfortable pair I've found.
I’ve successfully drum sanded a thick layer of carpet glue with a Home Depot rental, and and this one along the baseboards: https://www.amazon.com/Festool-576028-Multi-Mode-Sander-FEQ-Plus/dp/B087NBS2CC?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2F8KAB7F15GZF. However, my glue was very old and a lot more dry looking. It was thicker too. Grit 24 took it all off nicely. I’d start with grit 16 if I did it again though.
Thanks mate. No this was entirely my fault so trying to mitigate than lose my security deposit. Only 3 to 4 tiles were damaged. Have purchased the hard wax in amazon https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B09KTLNS6F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Will let you know if it works, then might try the epoxy route. Might need to apply some wax oil finishing as well to even the colouring.
Vacuum it any debris. Put wuss glue across the tongue. Suction the tool to the plank you want to move. Pull board into place. Mallet and or pry bar on tool if needed.
Yeah dude, im site barbers all over the world have used vinyl on their floors, is a very practical floor. But I'm not sure how many of them put it on carpet. .
Maybe you know something i don't.. If you seen it paved over carpet before, and worked out just fine, then have it. I just personally don't think it's a good idea.
My advice would be to look for a like... Babys mat... Lol... The most stylish one you can find.. Otherwise i think your throwing your money away. But... It's up to you
JumpOff Jo - Large Waterproof Foam Padded Play Mat for Infants, Babies, Toddlers, Play & Tummy Time, Foldable Activity Mat, 70 in. x 59 in. - Elephant & Rainbow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HNDC9WJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_M0CSZHRPW8NKJH3JM3YY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah dude, im site barbers all over the world have used vinyl on their floors, is a very practical floor. But I'm not sure how many of them put it on carpet. .
Maybe you know something i don't.. If you seen it paved over carpet before, and worked out just fine, then have it. I just personally don't think it's a good idea.
My advice would be to look for a like... Babys mat... Lol... The most stylish one you can find.. Otherwise i think your throwing your money away. But... It's up to you
JumpOff Jo - Large Waterproof Foam Padded Play Mat for Infants, Babies, Toddlers, Play & Tummy Time, Foldable Activity Mat, 70 in. x 59 in. - Elephant & Rainbow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HNDC9WJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_M0CSZHRPW8NKJH3JM3YY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not being completely finished with the floor would not be nagging this happen.
The fact that you can tap them together, means something is not right.
Sometimes with a cheaper floor, the short seams tend to have a slight gappage, but you can generally only see it when your down on the floor. When standing up you doing even know it.
But usually if there is that slight gappage, its staying that way. It's locked in place it's not moving, getting bigger or smaller.
Is there a little rubber piece in the short seam on one side of ye planks? Because these are usually "drop n lock" floors, which have a slightly different installation method. (Even if your floor fits nut have the rubber, there is still a chance it is a drop n lock)
I'm guessing when installing, you put your short seam together first, then tap the long seam together.
But if this is a drop n lock floor try your next row by putting your long seam together first, slide it tightly up to the short seam while the board is pitched at an angle.. Then take a mallet and lightly tap down the short seam to lock it into place... You'll have to tap from the bottom to the top of the seam (direction doesn't really matter, you itsy have to tap the entire seam) you'll hear it clicking/living into place with each tap.
But if that does not work, and this is not a drop and lock floor, then yes, i would recommend getting a wood glue, and and putting a little bit into all your short seams.
If you really want to ensure it will stay tight, you could ratchet strap each row while the glue dries.
You can either buy a set or 2, or if you assist own standard ratchet straps, its pretty easy to jerry rig a set together with standard straps.
Here's a link: POWERTEC 71102 Wood Flooring Strap Clamp w/ 13 Foot Nylon Strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078R2ZVHR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_3X0FZ496S5PDHY0KBHX8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m going through the same process right now, I used a product called citristrip. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LF8T6PM?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_E48SY73PH9HS2EFJ3P6H
Roll it on with a paint roller and cover it with plastic, let it sit for 3-4 hours and let it do its work, finish up with a floor scraper. Worked wonders! No chemical smell and pet/kid safe. It will take paint and/or finish off anything it touches, definitely wear old clothes/shoes.
Buy this... Suction it to your floor... Hit it in the direction it needs to go with a hammer.
Sometimes it will help if another person is tapping on the edge that needs to lock together with a mallet at the same time your wacking the suction cups.
The floor is 12mm thickness and it’s laminate herringbone so I think the 5mm underlay is ok for that. It’s the one the shop would normally recommend if they had it.
They said next best underlay would be green sponge with silver foil (3mm) Similar/the same as this one:
Everywhere I’ve read it says no smaller than 3mm and no thicker than 5mm for laminate underlay
It will be fine, but a hassle, because it is a click-lock product. You may have to assemble it in pieces on the floor, then lift it into place. Normally you'd use contact cement to adhere it to smooth drywall. Have no idea what you have to work with.
Myself, I'd use peel and stick kits:
https://www.amazon.com/Timberchic-River-Reclaimed-Wooden-Planks/dp/B08646BVNW
Waaay less hassle, and looks just as good.
I'd recommend an actual carpet knife, instead of a regular utility knife. The blades are much sharper, and will make the work much quicker. But use the utility knife to score between the baseboard and wall, so when you remove the baseboard you don't rip the paint off the wall.
For the tack strip, use a hammer and pry bar. Use the pry bar to remove hard to get to staples. For staples in general, use a floor scraper (not a razor scraper). It has a long handle and typically a 12-18" wide blade on it. You can find them at pretty much any home improvement store. The staples should be around the edges of the room (in front of the tack strip), and the ones in the center of the room should be mostly in lines. Just keep the scraper at the right angle, and it will make short work of the staples, without digging into your subfloor.
You can sometime tap the floor back together using suction cup glass handle (see link below) and a mallet. Put glue between the board ends first so this won’t happen again…tap them back together….wipe up glue.
Glass Suction Cups Lifters Double Pad Vacuum Plate Heavy Duty Aluminum Handle Glass Holder Hooks for Lifting and Moving of Large Glass,Tile,mirror,Granite, Marble and Something with a flat surface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092NPM44N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0RZRE1905PKT4J4NDY0B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Used these for a few years now. So good my knees feel better at the end of the day than when I wake up.
You can try using a brace sold for tennis elbow. I wear one when I know I’m doing the same motion repeatedly, and also while golfing. Not sure you’re experiencing the same pain as mine, either way tequila helps.
Tourna Guard Rx Therapeutic Elbow Guard Forearm Band https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZALKDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_AJYVWM737WDFQF2J4CAS
You can try this, it works pretty good.
Tibet Almond Stick Scratch Amazing Wooden Surface Stain Remover and Give Perfect New Look to Wood Products, 1 Count (Pack of 1), Colorless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZN9OS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NZZVVBQCMY97EH3B4RNQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Works best with a 3lb mini sledge if the milling is very tight on the tongue and groove or if it is a difficult snap lock.
I use Crain 197 Comfort Knees Knee pads. They are right around $50. Comfortable, machine washable, and soft enough where they don't scratch LVT/LVP or sheet vinyl. I've been using them for over a year and a half. The outer knee "skin" is worn away in the middle, from sliding around on staples, but that's just cosmetic. Went from not wearing anything and having constant pain and unstable knees (felt like they wanted to bend the wrong way when walking) to having no issues after using these.
Those wedge spacers sold at most places are garbage. They don’t stay in place at alL. I upgraded to the t shaped ones halfway through my reno and wish I’d started with them.
Pull out half a dozen crayons that are most similar tones and color away. With the right touch you can blend things away a bit. The wax in the crayons will also function as a bit of a water resistant finish.
It's not the most elegant solution, but I've found that it's an inexpensive way to hide a mess when it isn't worth the cash it costs to do it right.
>Are you SURE it’s solid?
Oh, definitely not sure. The building claims it is. There is a loose board that I need to get fixed, would a side pic of it help?
After fully cleaning I had thought something like (https://www.amazon.com/Bona-Hardwood-Floor-Polish-Gloss/dp/B001CLBK32/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=bona+satin&qid=1628980295&s=home-garden&sr=1-3), though certainly recognize that will do nothing for the bad gouges/scratches.
Wait, what? Grind the floor away? I got this mat (link below) about midway through the pandemic. Looks okay to me so far.
I don't understand the recs for carpet. It affects the roll too much for me to be comfortable.
Have you had these tiles tested for asbestos? Assuming they contain based on the size, pattern, etc.?
It's not a bad call to assume they contain as it can save money on sampling and analysis. One way to lower your risk of exposure is to get some spray glue or spray paint. Covering the broken tiles with the spray will help to lock down any fibres and broken pieces. Generally speaking tile is low friability unless pulverized and or in poor, aging condition so going over it with levelling compound or similar will also provide some protection with fairly low exposure risk.
If you are looking to learn about more asbestos from identification to removal, please have a read through my ebook. It's free for amazon prime members.
https://www.amazon.com/Asbestos-Exposed-definitive-identification-including-ebook/dp/B08H2KS528
You need something with actual enzymes in it if you want the smell to go away. Bleach isn’t going to cut it. Something like this.. I don’t think it’s a issue with the floor, seems like the previous owners were nasty and just slapped laminate flooring down so they could sell. They probably bleached the floor before they laid it down too, but if you don’t kill the actual reason for the smell it’s going to keep coming back.
that's a horrible link but this product is magical! we used to carry it as a distributor in Canada but we just didn't sell enough to continue. if you spray this on your floor and start to move it around, it will turn black as it pulls up any residue and dirt on your floor. best laminate/vinyl restore product I have ever seen.
EDIT: the product I linked to is the sealer. this is the product that will clean it properly...
https://www.lamanatorplus.com/collections/all/products/deep-scrub-extreme-gallon
you cab buy it direct from their website.
Bought these lights and mounted them to some scrap 2x4's. Looks like you could use some more light but you know we are bats so it doesn't matter! Looks great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073J98R8Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JWgKFbQ6G5H8Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bought these mats from Amazon about a year ago.
https://www.amazon.com/ProsourceFit-Exercise-Interlocking-Protective-Equipment/dp/B07Q3JZ16K
Took them up today to clean and my floor is now discolored (darkened) right under where the mats were.
Any ideas on what could have happened or how to fix?