Likely Area 51. I’m getting a First Edition, and only have four choices: Area 51, Cactus Gray, Rapid Red, and Cyber Orange.
I think red would fade too fast, even though I went to NC State and wouldn’t mind it. I don’t like the orange, so that leaves me with Cactus Gray or Area 51.
I think Gray is already a bit too common as a vehicle color, even though I like it, so that leaves me to lean towards Area 51.
If it looks too close to Carolina blue in person, I’ll make sure to put an NC State trailer hitch cover on it. 😉
The spare tire is going to have an Air Force cover on it.
Replace your vacuum lines with thick wall silicone. Don't even bother trying to use or fix the old school hard lines. These are good and will be able to replace all small lines. Larger lines, measure them and order a similar replacement.
While you're at it check the little plastic vacuum elbows/connectors too.
Confirm the vacuum lines are going to/from the correct places according to your truck's VECI sticker, which should be located in the engine compartment above the radiator.
Get a mityvac. This will help you test vacuum issues (see a theme?), engage vacuum-actuated devices (like the EGR), and even helps bleed brakes solo.
Change all fluids (Oil, brake, tranny, both diffs, coolant. I think transfer case goes off of the tranny's fluid if I remember right). The front diff doesn't have a drain plug, you gotta suck it out (heh). The mityvac can do help with this. You can drill and tap a hole to add your own drain plug.
Confirm spark plug firing order and make sure wires are routed to the correct plugs. While you're at it, change the plugs with autolite copper or motorcrafts, never waste money on nice plugs for these trucks.
If it's OBDI get the cheap yellow ford obdi code reader and pull codes. You'll have to look up how to do it, it's not like pulling codes on OBDII stuff. You can pull codes without the reader but it sucks and you shouldn't waste your time.
The Haynes manual is a great place to start if you're new. It isn't the bible that many make it out to be, however, and you may eventually outgrow it. Don't be surprised when it's vague or incorrect on specifics.
And good luck passing smog! It sucks keeping these trucks smog legal in California.
I believe the SAS package trucks have a 2" lift and they come with 35's, but the crash bars would need to be removed. I just did a 1.25" leveler on my BB and installed Nitto 217010 Ridge Grappler Tire in LT285/70R17 and was able to keep the crash bars intact.
Ford ones are great. I have those plus cargo liner. Plus I got this liner for seat backs: Mabett Rear Seat Back Cover... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VL31QV5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The combo of all of that is perfection.
I did the full antenna delete, since I never listen to AM/FM. I keep the stock antenna in the back just in case I'm away from cell service and want radio.
I used duplicolor paint shop brand for the black and clear coat, but used an electric HVLP gun that didn't perform super well. The stripes are just rustoleum standard "gloss protective enamel" - colors are regal red, cherry, orange and sunburst yellow.
Just an amazon winch, but my friend has the exact same model and has used it on his car trailer for several years with no issues.... he has higher end winches (Warns and Smittybuilts) that he bought in the past but told me just to buy this one as it's been great and it is very nice quality in person. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C9MVS95/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I was skeptical at first to be honest... didn't think it would protect from the sun as advertised and that it would flap around at higher speeds. After driving around with it on for 3 days though it was a rock star. It genuinely kept us much cooler, provided really good shade, and was super easy to install.
Here is a link to the one I got. Nothing too expensive or over the top (there are plenty of options out there). The only two things that I could nitpick about is that it was a little loose on the front so I just doubled up the elastic loop which solved that issue. Second is I wish I could keep it on when I put the hard top back on to save a little time but honestly, it only takes 5 minutes of your time and stores up easy in your heart box so not a big deal at all. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WTT87Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RMC9FRABMRQ38FB86VKT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this one:
Tekk Short Antenna Compatible with Ford Bronco 2019-2022 | Designed for Optimized FM/AM Reception | 4.8 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TVF7QSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9A5ppsK2uhTDg
It looks good, it’s rigid yet short enough the car washes don’t knock it around. I live in suburbs of Chicago and am in city often so I don’t ever notice reception issues.
I had a 6” on my Raptor and noticed it was getting bent over time. AntennaMastsRus - The Original 6 3/4 Inch is Compatible with Ford F-350 Super Duty (1999-2016) - Car Wash Proof Short Rubber Antenna - Internal Copper Coil - Premium Reception - German Engineered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXNEB97/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z6AM26JNY8FR9NR2M5VE?psc=1
Again that was three years ago I bought it
Now it says car wash proof 🤣
I plan on screwing these packing straps with the clips on the garage wall for safe and out of the way storage. (Soft top windows clipping into the straps on the wall) Just ordered them yesterday and they should be in tomorrow. I’ll let y’all know how it goes.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07W9CMHQZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_i_MG1ZX94C0FP157S2Q54A
If you take the doors off, use stripping or a cut rubber house on the side of the door to prevent them from touching each other. I used the ones that came with it and still managed to chip my paint. Here is my suggestion.. Rubber Edge Trim, Fits Edge up to 1/16 inch (1.6mm), Length 10 Feet (3.05 Meter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCF3KQ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_H5KMCZ43ZQ5RGZ1NZCGV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
AntennaMastsRus - The Original 6 3/4 Inch Antenna fits Ford F-150 (2009-2022) - USA Stainless Steel Threading - Car Wash Proof - Internal Copper Coil - Premium Reception https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRER777/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EJBJ016PVMCB2GF1765X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Worth it, that looks rad!!! Also a heat gun may melt the solder and you could shrink wrap around the connections. Look online. They make solder wire connectors and also shrink wrap. TICONN 150 PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice (150PCS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCNTZ2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0AEFK594BZQMW9HN5FR9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I bought these to wire light bars, etc. for my roof rack.
Mount - Wisdour Front License Plate Mount... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZMMGKHY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Backing - Cruiser Accessories 79150... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032K4VA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I tried a few other things that didn’t work out and was really happy with this combo!
You could try something like this for extra storage Pro Series Rambler Trailer Mounted Hitch Cargo Carrier Basket + Storage Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7R3ZGN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_589MW43GQ3ZRRFYK6SQH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the cam I’ve been eyeballing, which looks to be 5v.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P4564VP/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Your listing states “for Ford vehicles….without rear view backup camera LCD display”. What does that mean exactly?
I'd recommend taking it to a shop for inspection.
Also, it's the only 90's Bronco with an OBDII. Buy an OBDII scanner and check it for codes.
I bought this
Aduro Magnetic Self Winding Fidget Lightning iPhone Charger Cable MFi Certified Charging Cable Cord For iPhone 12 11 Xs Max XR X 8 Plus 7 Plus 6S 6 Plus SE 2020 5S iPad Pro iPod Airpods 3 Foot (White) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08FD2NFCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4F65JA1XYC5RKBAKYARE?psc=1
When the glass windows come out they leave a nice lip on the top that I could use to put a seal around it and use latches maybe like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JCC7P8?ref=exp_dirtlifestylenate_dp_vv_d to hold them in. I was loosely inspired by dirt lifestyle's gull wing windows vid on YouTube. Haven't 100% made up my mind on what latches or hardware I want to use yet, right now i have the stripped down top that still needs new seals and another coat of raptor liner before i get to testing the whole window idea.
This right up my alley. First the Head unit. I'm guessing here, but you'll want bluetooth with handsfree phone calls, don't use cds anymore so just need a digital receiver. And single din unless you want to modify the dash. Kenwood, Pioneer, Sony, and Alpine have been my go to brands.
You most likely have 6 1/2 rounds in door's with 6x8 in back. Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, and JBL are my more trusted brands. Pay attention to watts rms. not peak. Next an amp. Amplifiers are practically a must since no head unit can provide the power that today's speakers can take. That extra power gives em clarity at higher volumes. 4 channel amp. Front Left Front Right ... Lets say your 4 speakers are 250 watts rms. you need a 1000 watt amp since ea. channel divides it. Oh, and match the ohms. Since your not looking for license plate rattling bass I suggest a 8 inch low profile all in one box that can fit under your back seat. Wiring harness will be necessary. Pick one that is gauged for peak watts from your amp. Don't forget one of these. Any questions feel free to ask.
You’re looking for /r/truckcampers and /r/carcamping.
Like the other person said, a futon mattress will work pretty great. Better yet, there are mattresses designed to conform to wheel wells. Furthermore, you can build a platform for your truck for sleeping on, which will allow you to store your supplies underneath. Here is what I’m talking about, but there are about a thousand variations on this idea.
One kinda important thing is to have a means of pulling humidity from your car at night - breathing makes a lot of condensation. Most people stick with one or two small clip on, rechargeable battery fans clipped onto slightly open windows in the summer. Most people seem to skip the fans in the winter, in cold environments. If you’re in a hot place with no bugs, predators, or weirdos, you can always just keep the tailgate open.
My suggestion is to go super cheap but be smart. Get some clear totes and a cheap Amazon air mattress. Go on a trip or two, and decide what other supplies you do or don’t need. Chances are, unless you’re going on really serious, long distance trips, you won’t need much more than 2-3 totes for supplies, a mattress, a water jug (I personally suggest water cooler jugs), a cooler, propane stove/burner, a pan, a kettle, a handful of plates and utensils, a lantern (easier to light your interior with than a flashlight), and two small fans.
Venom Power. Just got some now waiting on wheels. They have excellent reviews and are priced right. Venom Power Terra Hunter X/T All-Terrain Radial Tire-33X12.50R22LT 109R LRE 10-Ply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X1SD17N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_HSDWFb0QE7VAK
Wow, that looks like a very well taken-care-of Bronco. How many miles are on it the the rear diff needed to be rebuilt (essentially)?
I think the best way to carry a spare, if there is something wrong with the swing out carrier (this is my opinion), would be to have the faulty spare tire carrier removed entirely, and have your local welding shop fabricate you a spare tire carrier that slides into your hitch receiver. Don't buy one off of Amazon, you'll get cheap Chinese crap.
If you want to be able to tow and not have said hitch receiver tire carrier be in the way, then you just put this Gen-Y Hitch Receiver Adapter in your 2" hitch receiver, put your ball hitch in the bottom receiver, and put that tire carrier in the top one.
I have one and they are worth every penny. Made in the USA and rated for 10,000lbs. No Bronco was ever rated for more than about 7000 as far as I know.
Make sure the issue isn't a missing/broken plastic bushing where the tailgate locks in. If it doesn't think the tailgate is closed, the motor will not work as it runs through the lock. You can test by closing the left latch by hand and see if the motor starts working while the tailgate is open. I've had to do this on a 94 and a 95 when I thought the motor was dead, but was just the bushing missing.
It may be as simple as changing these out: https://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-38424-Tailgate-Liftgate-Assortment/dp/B000COCRHI?sa-no-redirect=1
Here’s what I put in mine, the circular door speakers screw right in. You’ll most likely have to drill new holes. No biggie. The back ones I had to make a bracket out of wood. But used all preexisiting wires. These along with an amp in my center console are plenty loud. Any speakers with the same dimensions will fit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYH3DMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_esEpFbE5ED20V
Oh also, the gate bushings are the same as the truck gate and were included in the Help! pack that I bought.
Dorman 38424 Tailgate/Liftgate Striker Bushing Assortment, 4 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COCRHI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dAA-CbKT3KPM4
Astatic 302-10309 Stars N' Stripes Noise Canceling 4-Pin CB Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OYQ6GE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j3p.AbMTHJ1XF
I was having issue with feedback while on the stock mic, so I decided to try this one and it worked way better.