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The most popular Services mentioned in /r/JetsonNano:
Hackster
PyTorch
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Apache Guacamole
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Have you looked at https://guacamole.apache.org/ ? I've not tried it, but would be the first thing I try if I need a remote desktop again. Historically, I've used RealVNC.
Are you using this one: MakerFocus PWM Servo Motor Driver IIC Module 16 Channel PWM Outputs 12 Bit Resolution I2C Compatible with Raspberry Pi 4 3B+ 3B Zero/Zero W/Zero WH and Jetson Nano https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9ZTWNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_SkNbGb0CEV7AC
Or this one: HiLetgo PCA9685 16 Channel 12-Bit PWM Servo Motor Driver IIC Module for Arduino Robot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1D0CX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_BlNbGbCCN7YEX
Because I am having issues with the first model, and I think it’s because it’s lacking a capacitor
I know the fun of projects, but if you're just looking for a UPS/battery pack for the nano, waveshare makes an inexpensive UPS specifically for the nano.
https://www.amazon.com/UPS-Power-Module-Uninterruptible-Protection/dp/B08BRMZ4G6/ref=sr_1_8
Paired with these batteries:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MV1DLRH
It's around 150 Wh.
The order for the pinout of both fan connectors is [GND, 5V, TACH, PWM] and will almost always be this for any electronics fan.
An adapter like this should work for you.
is it possible to pre-order the $400 one somewhere?
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also, are these jetson nanos older versions? or counterfeit versions?
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The pin layout is the same. However, the heatsink on the Nano will not let most hats just sit. You can you a pin extender. Something like https://smile.amazon.com/GeeekPi-Stacking-Female-Raspberry-Specifications/dp/B08GC18NMK/
Not exactly answer to the question, but maybe you could use pytorch instead of numpy in the project
https://pytorch.org/docs/stable/notes/cuda.html
https://pytorch.org/docs/stable/generated/torch.from_numpy.html
You can move the tensor between CPU and GPU simply with .cuda() and .cpu().
"Reimaging" the SD card is a waste of time if you haven't made any changes to the system.
Did you get the Arducam for the Jetson or for the Pi? They're nearly identical. The Raspberry Pi HQ camera module requires a hardware modification in order to work with Jetson Platforms. Both Jetson Nano and Jetson Xavier NX provides 1.8V for reset GPIO in the camera interface, but the camera module requires 3.3V. I think this involves removing an SMD resistor on the cameras intended for the Pi.
Check to see if R8 is installed on the camera. Check this page for more details.
Okay. Then yes, jetson nano won't be able to keep up with 50fps.
Probably max is 40 fps and with the classes optimized.
Jetson xavier nx would be the recommendation.
If you have a raspi already, you can look into and compare the intel vs coral.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Neural-Compute-Stick-2/dp/B07KT6361R
The Nano has a full Maxwell class GPU with 128 CUDA cores, which means its capable of both training and inference. So get PyTorch installed then start with the 60-minute blitz which is an introduction to PyTorch and tensor (matrix) math, both on the CPU and GPU.
This project implements a deep learning model on a Jetson Nano to count and track people passing in front of a video camera.
Checkout the full description here: https://www.hackster.io/cristianpb/intelligent-video-analytics-on-nvidia-jetson-nano-a5d00c
Yeah when I saw the Jetson Mate this was what I was talking about. It's a little too pricey as I'm looking for a standard acrylic or plastic casing, similar to this one (that's either completely stackable or just has 4 slots):
I think you just need to find the right switch. This is something in the right direction: amazon.com/GAMA-Electronics-Waterproof-Illuminated-Off-Momentary/dp/B001PNO4H6/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=double+pole+double+throw+momentary+switch&qid=1624336244&sr=8-8.
Go into an electrical wholesaler, I'd imagine most will have at least one guy who will be able to help you out. Or ask in another sub.
I have four BECs from four motors. anddddd, i just double checked and it is actually 5V and 3A from one BEC. So if I connect it in parallel with one other BEC, and route that power to a power jack connection into the nano, will that be enough? i was thinking a connector like this
Here’s a buck converter I used for a recent project, it allows you to set both voltage and current output.
The desk has the risers built into it, I got the two racks off Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-Jetson-Rackmount-Supports-Developer/dp/B08NPST1JD
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-Raspberry-Rackmount-Supports-Models/dp/B08F9X528J
This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H6LB4J4/
I'm running the Nano 2Gb which uses USB-C for power instead of a barrel jack. For the original 4Gb Nano with the barrel jack for power you'd have to build or buy a USB-A to barrel cable.
For my motor connections I just took a USB-A to Micro USB cable, cut off the Micro USB end, and stripped back the cable to get at the red and black power wires.
Here's the link to Nvidia's Jetbot project: https://jetbot.org/master/ It has parts lists and assembly instructions. Even if you're not building their Jetbot, there is some useful information on parts that work with the Nano.
I've been using the power bank that Nvidia recommends for the Jetbot, which is this: INIU Power Bank, LED Display 10000mAh Portable Charger, Dual 3A High-Speed 2 USB Ports with Flashlight Battery Pack, Compatible with iPhone XS X 8 Samsung Galaxy S10 S9 Note 10 Google Oneplus iPad etc.
It has two USB jacks, and can supply 3A on each. I run one to the Nano and the other goes to a 16 channel PWM board to run a servo and to a motor control board to run the drive wheels. It's worked for me so far.
Incant seem to find a power block with two inputs, would something like this work: Litever Power Splitter, 2 Way, 1 Female Jack to 2 Male Plugs, 5.5mm x 2.1mm, 1:2, Y Adaptor Copper Cable, for CCTV Camera & LED Strip Lighting Power Supply Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075B6S5G3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_bI0bGbXW5S60N
I am running off of the 4V DC jack, would I be able to get one of those instead of the micro usb version? Such as this? SHNITPWR 5V 5A DC Power Supply Adapter 5 Volt 5 Amp 25W AC 100V~240V to DC Converter Transformer LED Driver with 5.5x2.5mm DC Tip for WS2812B WS2813 LED Pixel Strip TV Box USB HUB Raspberry Pi Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S7Q9J8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Ox0bGbCQM0TS7 but with 2 leads instead of the one
It depends what you want to do. I use a 12-24v to 5v regulator to power my Jetson Nano from a lipo so I can use a depth camera on an RC car.
CSI is probably the best interface.. you can get CSI to HDMI adaptor from Arducam for $14 bucks
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I'm using a HDMI to VGA converter like this one: link and it working fine with raspberry pi. Why it didn't work with Jetson Nano?
Two 2s or 3s lipos in series (14.8V-22.2V nominal) with a 5v regulator to the barrel jack. Consider using lipo alarm for extended use. I used this setup with my d435 for some 3d mapping. Two 7500mAh 3s lipos can power this for a decent amount of time.
Doesn't work throughout ProtonVPN 176.107.221.74:8080 - only locally. So, if I understood this overall conception correctly, I have to ask them to open these outbound ports and it's the only way to configure Linux to any free DNS providers?
If you can squeeze it in your budget, I recommend a better fan if you’re going to mount it to the heatsink. The Noctua NF-A4x10 5V is a great fan that runs on 5 volts
Edit: just realized this is a kit and the fan should be fine for most purposes
I have not run an update yet on the nano. The cable is 160mm according to the amazon page. I was just using a 5V 2.5A micro usb power supply that i saw recommended with it. Should i be using a stronger power supply? I might have a 12V DCin somewhere. As for a spare raspberry pi, i do not, but since it seems like it could help, i ordered one off amazon that shud come on friday. Thanks again for the help
This one from Waveshare, which I bought from Amazon.
The case has other flaws. I wasn't able to put two of the case closure screws in because the holes didn't line up well enough. And I had to re-solder and heatshrink one of the buttons. It's a very tight fit and there is exactly one correct order for putting it together.
But it is nice heavy steel. Fabulously frustrating to put together, but I'm happy with it now.
Pretty sure you can't use the existing ports for input, but I think a capture card should work - I have one of these under the tree to find out over the Christmas break:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKTTJ4T
(says it supports Linux unlike the more common elgato capture devices)