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Go ahead and buy this for your little ingots. Cast iron works better than steel for this
Yes surprisingly it's almost all AL including the platters and inner components, there is some steel/stainless with the cool magnets. I took the whole thing apart did need a punch and hammer for the spindle on some to come out of the bottom case. In the spindle there is some copper. Just get a good magnet, like for fishing, and if it sticks don't melt it. Or do, and the steel will float on the liquid AL for scraping. I see the magnets (still att to the metal, there should be two) and the circuit boards for sale on ebay The actuator is also all AL with a metal post and set screw. Lots of torx screws.
My biggest crucible is #5/6 so the width of the HDD cases were a bit too wide to just plop in, had to hang it there until it started melting then it went right in. this is the one i started with and its just fine for small jobs. https://smile.amazon.com/Masters-Propane-Furnace-Crucible-Smelting/dp/B073DRQY98/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=castmaster+forge&qid=1628107125&sr=8-6 it's under $300 (not promoting) i like the non hinged type lid.
you will find you will need other tools and PPE once you get going. Gloves are a must have.
Alright, so I found it but it’s really pricey. It’s 59.99 on Amazon but it works really well and it costs that much for a reason. You don’t want a piece of junk that could malfunction on you. This is the advice I’ve taken from others and I’m offering it to you. It works incredibly well and it’s definitely the safest option out there. When playing with fire, it’s best to do it as safely as possible IMO. https://www.amazon.com/Propane-Regulator-High-Pressure-Adjustable/dp/B06XJYRMN4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=60+PSI+propane+regulator&qid=1623425125&sr=8-4 you’ll need a POL valve to attach it to the tank but they sell them at hardware stores if you don’t have one.
I just tried this like a week ago and melted the steel crucible. You can find the stone composite or whatever the proper crucible for aluminum is on amazon fairly cheap like $25
Edit: like this one #4 6KG Foundry Clay Graphite Crucibles Cup Furnace Torch Melting Casting Refining Gold Silver Copper Brass Aluminum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018ZM58MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uzU-xbTG1SCND
Double edit: I'm no pro only tried melting once so take what I said how you will
I'm actually about to start casting dice and I've established a decent method of producing the wax models. I started with a blank die (my local game shop sells blanks, you can buy them online if you can't find any local), and I used a silicon food molding putty I found on amazon to make a mold of the blank. From there you fill the mold with wax and you can add your numbers to the wax and then continue from there with the lost wax method.
If you're more comfortable carving the numbers into the dice blanks that works just as well, but it might make the putty mold not come off as cleanly.
Looks like 70USD for .75kg on amazon. Sucks that I can't get in 3mm for my Ultimaker :(
that type of crucible is for electric furnaces, it'll burn up right quick if you put it in an open flame. you'd be better off with something like this, it'll hold up a lot better
I've never had nitric acid shipped to me. So...have a couple of grains of salt with this response.
After a bit of research, I found this on the FAQ of "Lab Alley Essential Chemicals":
> Restricted Chemical Shipments?
> Chloroform and other Restricted Chemical Shipments:
> Important: All restricted chemical products will only be shipped to Schools, Universities, Laboratories, or Companies. If you are an individual ordering this product, it will not be shipped to you. It will be deleted from your order and the rest of the order will be shipped without your confirmation.
But then, if you start looking around...it doesn't seem like everyone follows this guidance. For example, it is readily available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Fortis-Liter-Alliance-Chemical/dp/B0B1N3QXD6?ref_=ast_sto_dp (at like twice the price that it should be...)
Thanks for your interest.
No definite ideas -- Probably something like this is most amenable to backyard casting:
https://www.amazon.com/Guidecraft-Interlox-Squares-Interlocking-Construction/dp/B004C8I0B2?th=1
But I'm keep to get suggestions -- really it's part of the question.
Optimally it should be a single piece (like in the above) and reusable.
I will add. As mentioned MPa isn't fixed across rigs and setups. But MPA/BAR/PSI are the measurements you'll see referenced a lot. So if your current regulator and hose that came with the furnace doesn't have one, you'll probably want a hose with a pressure gauge.. This is the one I use :
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZGHCR2M
It's a Wilton cakelette pan I picked up at Joann's a couple years back. Meant to make sugar skull cakes for Dia de los Meurtos.
They have them on Amazon : https://smile.amazon.com/Non-Food-Items-Mini-Skull-Cavity/dp/B096T57SBQ/
Yeah, as mentioned here, brazing is a thing. Congratulations on your first copper/steel brazing ;) Here's my preferences :
- Sand casting : Any metal I work with, and can make almost anything I can imagine and 3d print.... But obviously costs more in TIME packing all those flasks and each is a one time use.
- Steel Muffin pans : Aluminum. I've had both copper and brass braze into and ruin carbon steel pans. But much faster than sand, assuming you can find a steel pan of what you want to cast. (I found some fun ones of Mexican Sugar Skulls which are what most of my Aluminum ingots are)
- Cast Iron ingot molds : All metals, but you just get rectangular ingots so they aren't exactly fancy. This is my go to when I'm melting a lot of scrap and going to do something pretty with it later.
- Graphite molds : All metals, and can get fancy molds. But $$$ is the constraint here. Those pretty coin/round molds can be $50+ each. It's why my next tinkering/toy purchase will probably be a CnC machine so I can make my own graphite molds (and maybe open my own Etsy store selling them)
Now, one thing I have used is a mold release agent spray called "slide" and had some limited success casting copper/brass in carbon steel pans. This let me get some nice castings, but eventually I would still braze one into the pan and lose a slot. Here's what I'm talking about :
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RFKJ3C/
Hope this helps!
I bought this and then cut them in half to use (had to also trim down the corners). It was an inexpensive way and now I have spares in case one cracks. (which they will eventually do)
Probably want to use a refectory mortar with a ceramic reflective coating over it.
This is what I would use
https://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/catalog/product/view/id/18919/s/satanite-refractory-mortar-5-lb/
With a coating of this
This is what I picked up for it
Active Carbon Gases Chemicals Respirator - for Vapors, Paint, Dust,Formaldehyde, Sanding, Polishing, Spraying,Machine Polishing and other Workhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SMG33QD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_K1QFXJ9QD0W5NKD560VS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm in the same boat. I'm going with the elastic band solution. I just ordered these elastic bands (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A58FHQ8) you wrap them around your chin and tie it off on top of your head. The idea is that the elastic band is wider than your beard and makes a seal with your neck... and a standard respirator can make a seal with the elastic band.
It looks like the interior is just ceramic fibre insulation (kaowool). If the manufacturer disnt already do it, the insulation should be rigidized so the fibres don’t come loose and end up in your lungs. They’re toxic.
You can use a rigidizer or refractory cement. I made water glass out of silica crystal cat litter and lye to seal mine.
Amazon has tin and zinc available,
https://www.amazon.com/Nugget-Pound-Metal-MS-MetalShipper/dp/B01F5SB94C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?c=ts&keywords=Tin+Metal+Raw+Materials&qid=1649805559&s=industrial&sr=1-4&ts_id=6469705011 That’s the tin, they have a 2 pound ingot as well,
https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Grams-Pieces-99-99-Pure/dp/B0187XII7I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=307K8J859Q4N8&keywords=zinc+metal&qid=1649805623&s=industrial&sprefix=zinc+metal+%2Caps%2C78&sr=1-4 That’s the zinc, I’ve bought from them before and it’s great stuff, super pure.
If you wanna do it right get something like this
SIMOND STORE Propane Forge Burner... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099WQXK9M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you wanna go cheap get that one harbor freight one linked
Tape over vent holes to bypass thermal shutoff, buy silicon carbide crucible which absorbs microwaves and converts to heat. Put a thermal tile in the bottom to separate your red hot crucible from the shell. Turn on and let run until melted.
I didn't realize crucibles had gotten cheap, if you get a micro from goodwill you may be able to do this for less than $50. Turn it sideways to increase overall height and get better working area.
Do I need to clarify that you probably shouldn't use the same microwave you reheat food with and your significant other won't appreciate the 'improvements'?
I bought a 100oz mold off amazon for my first. It's no longer available, but here's a comparable if you can't weld up your own (as mentioned elsewhere in this thread)
https://smile.amazon.com/Molding-Casting-Refining-Aluminum-Precious/dp/B07NWLGHTC/
yeah it sounds like your fuel-air mix isn't right, and if you have one of those non-adjustable grill type regulators that won't be high enough pressure for the burner to run on. luckily basic regulators are pretty cheap, i'm pretty sure if you grab that one or one like it it'll solve your troubles
You just need a very thin layer of something sacrificial. They also make sprays. I found wax to work well for aluminum.
https://www.amazon.com/Metallon-Non-Stick-Lubricant-Releasing-Precious/dp/B018ZMDRL8
Propane Burner For Propane Forge (Stainless Steel) Knife Forge Furnace Foundry Raku Kiln Melting Furnace Blacksmith Tool Pack Includes Valve, Hose & Regulator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HB1FHCK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_H68WG5MXQTP1G7D17X0C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I recommend propane burner. You don't need to buy a furnace, but you can make one yourself for pretty cheap.
Aluminum has pretty low melting temp compared to copper, but good propane burner will save you hours of waiting time.
What I will often do is use the pans for aluminum, then when I get a really nice casting I will sand/polish it up to be the "best version" and use that aluminum casting to then do sand castings of it in Bronze/Brass/Copper as those you have to melt at a high enough temp that you can quickly ruin steel baking pans casting those higher temp metals.
With that said I've done some copper/brass casting in the pans as well, just runs the risk of "sticking" in the pan. When I do I use a spray on mold release agent called "slide" and then dust the pan with a graphite powder before casting.
https://www.amazon.com/Lynn-Manufacturing-Kaowool-Insulation-Fireproof/dp/B07ZQPC43B/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=254Y4BC5BW1CJ&keywords=ceramic+wool+insulation&qid=1645380793&sprefix=ceramic+wool+%2Caps%2C70&sr=8-5 that’s the ceramic wool and this is the refractory https://www.amazon.com/MEECOS-RED-DEVIL-610-Refractory/dp/B00ACIWN9Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2F6D3BMH8ZX6X&keywords=red+devil+refractory+cement&qid=1645380879&sprefix=meecos+red+devil+ref%2Caps%2C58&sr=8-3
This is a little dicey but it's something I've done. Use steel mini loaf baking pans to cast brass ingots. The trick is you need a carbon coating to help prevent sticking. So if they are non-stick baking pans, cast a round of aluminum in them first to burn the teflon into carbon. Alternatively dust them well with graphite powder or such. And if/when you can get things from amazon use this with steel baking pans to use them for brass/copper :
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RFKJ3C/
Do you have a meter showing the PSI/bar/kpas that you're putting out to your burner? The default tubes with many burners just have the regulator, and no meter to show how much gas flow you're really putting out. I replaced the default on mine with this one for just that reason.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZGHCR2M/
With that you'll really know how much you're pumping out. I did a copper melt today and probably overcooked it a bit and I didn't get over 15 psi, which is about half open on a 30 psi regulator obviously. Can you maybe add a photo of the burner and crucible in the furnace? Could be insufficient airflow around the furnace to get it to heat properly too.
The exact furnace I have I purchased from Amazon, it isn't available anymore but this looks to essentially be the exact same thing (even the burner looks identical)
https://smile.amazon.com/CANALHOUT-Propane-Smelting-Recycling-Aluminum/dp/B08DHH3ZP9/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=0-28LBS%2812.8KGS%29+Gas%2FPropane+Melting+Furnace+Kit%2C&qid=1639363215&sr=8-2
I use propane (and propane accessories) and have no problem working with bronze, brass, and copper. Copper takes around 15-20 minutes to reach melting point IIRC, maybe 25-30...
Key is to look at the air intake with your burner, make sure it's more wide open. Also, how much propane are you feeding it? (in PSI or MBAR?)
Maybe unreliable.... But they are dirt cheap (I have picked some up at the dollar store) and mine just keep on truckin'. My current favorite is a 8 slot mini loaf pan which makes perfect little rectangular ingots.
As for seasoning, once you do your first pour in one and burn off any teflon there is mine have been fine after that. (Just means the first batch out of a pan will be "dirty" and if you want them shiny you need to wire brush them. I have yet to have aluminum braze into one of them on a first pour to burn out the teflon.
In situations where you want to ensure good mold release on steel baking pans you can hit amazon and grab a can of "slide". Says 1800, but I've used it over 1900 for copper and works great. Put 2 coats on every few castings.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RFKJ3C/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Silicone mold putty is what you want. It's 2 part, basically feels like silly putty, when you mix the 2 it hardens in only a few minutes. It's also pliable enough that if you really need to move quickly you can mush it on the marker and pull it off and hold it gently until it hardens. https://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Amazing-Mold-Putty-0-66-Pound/dp/B0058VAG5A/
Graphite Ingot Mold Silver Ingot Mould Gold Casting Ingot Crucible Mold for Melting Casting Refining Gold Silver Metal Aluminum Copper Brass (40 x 40 x 45 mm, 1000 g Gold/ 500 g Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VGNHTC9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_7HJQ0D5R47XWNMM5MXSF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
4-8Kg Clay Graphite Crucibles Premium Black Foundry Cup Furnace Torch Melting Casting Refining for Gold. Also Great for Silver, Copper, Brass, Aluminum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0757X33KT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_M0YSETYRVST7T5GFKBP0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You mention primer, but what kind? Normal primer can help a tiny bit. But I've gotten better results using a primer that is also a "scratch filler" like this :
https://smile.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EFP101007-General-Purpose-Sandable/dp/B000B6DG7C/
Combined with a little sanding afterwards depending on the model.
I'm not sure what you were looking at exactly, but these should work fine. I've never tried them myself, but they're advertised to withstand a furnace.
I've seen mbmmllc use a similar crucible before (his seem a little more substantial though), so it's not a completely crazy idea. Worth trying at least once, with a small amount of metal, I'd say.
They are both at the tank. Both propane. One is on the tank, the other on the hose
Omg. I am getting so many different answers. Yes I bought it.
Been using these for a while : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FBNF9Q6/
They aren't amazing or anything, and they've browned a bit from my 'less than 100% osha-compliant activities", but have definitely saved my hands from burns.
I was thinking of buying this one, what do you think? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GPVF415/ref=redir\_mobile\_desktop?\_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=52379acda8bcc17d036f836bc1458bf0&hsa\_cr\_id=4322689920301&pd\_rd\_plhdr=t&pd\_rd\_r=8d9fa6f4-4b31-4214-ad5b-c8c7a426fa38&pd\_rd\_w=QkZj4&am...
I'm using the same smelting kiln that I use to melt the aluminum. I put the mold hole side down into the 3kg crucible with a couple of old allen wrenches at the bottom to give it space to drip/burn out. 550C for about an hour till it stopped smoking, then 750C for another 30 minutes.
Freeman. Did an Amazon search, got this link. Not an affiliate link, I make no money here.
Freeman Carving Wax Block, Blue, Medium Hard, 1 Pound | WAX-331.10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006CLTXFY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CEB2NJS9ER6N454TV5JZ
Personally, I would design it in CAD and upload the model to Shapeways or another printing service and pay to have them printed.
Yeh it is at the low point on the other side. The pic is tricky cause its on a downward angle so it looks like it's higher up but its near the bottom. Its a castmaster 5k. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073DRQY98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_VPV785WPWN14V44ZGH04?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
All aluminum is fine too melt, just don't mix it all together.
Invest in a set of metal stamps and stamp each ingot with what source it came from, something like "cast al", "bar al" etc would be fine for your purposes.
Here's an example of A-z, 0-9 stamps that would be fine for aluminum: https://www.amazon.com/RIVTUN-Professional-37-Piece-Stamping-Capital/dp/B08T1PGH6D/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Jewelry+Metal+Stamping+Tools&qid=1619621918&s=arts-crafts&sr=1-8&ts_id=8090814011
I bought mine on amazon, this one works fine.
This. A product called 'Saf-T-Sorb' is a good choice (It's like $6 for a 40lbs. bag at Tractor Supply). As bonus this ingredient works as a part in a 'gritty' potting soil mixture instead of the Turface and for fresh water aquariums using the Walstad method.
I got a couple, but this one seems to work the best so far! Keep in mind, I am very new at this, so I am in no place to give advice.
I wouldn't start with aluminum its harder to cast than other metals because its light you need a vacuum casting rig to get good results. I would start with pewter its cheap and easy to melt. I tell everyone starting out to try pewter you don't need a lot of equipment and the stuff you learn transfers to other metals. I would get some mold max 60 and a hotpot 2 and start from there here is a video showing the process and a link to the hotpot 2 If you look in my profile you will see some of what you can make and see more post from me about pewter casting
The absolute cheapest prebuilt electric furnaces are probably these 3kg electric furnaces. They range anywhere from about 250 - 350 dollars. Usually include tongs, gloves, and crucible so all you would need is metal and a mold at that point. But these things do tend to burn out so probably best to limit to aluminum and lower melting point metals. It's cheaper to build your own from parts but I wouldn't recommend it for a beginner, either use charcoal or buy an electric furnace.
You can melt over a firepit but it's going to need a lot of wood and air. When I started out I just used a few bucks worth of bricks, an old metal grill, some tin can crucibles, and a portable mattress inflator. But really all you need for aluminum is a flat wide iron pan. Raise it slightly off the ground for the heat to reach it and build a reasonable teepee fire around it. You will get a lot of contaminants in the metal on the top but you'll be able to pour a fair amount of it.
Excess moisture can cause sticking as well. Corn starch is not going to be as good a parting compound as calcium carbonate or talc. I switched to CC after me fears of talc got too high. This will last you a long time. Get a good coat of parting compound and then use a medium to soft bristle brush to brush that compound and top layer of sand into an bit of a mixed layer. This should last a longish time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GHS3SSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_F9-PFb70EQMQA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
High Purity Refining Graphite Casting Melting Ingot Mold Graphite Crucibles for Gold Silver Aluminum Metals (125x80x40 (5.7oz)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F9CRK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AFBNFbKJWW459?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Where can I get anthracite coal from and is it used basically the same way as charcoal? I found this on Amazon.
Also can you tell me more about how to use diesel?
The books are pretty cheap on Amazon. Here is the second one about the lathe specifically: The Metal Lathe (Build Your Own Metal Working Shop From Scrap Series Book 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007USU8HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cnr7Db1R27SC4
I have a variant of the second one. The example listed seems to be a very cut down model, probably made as cheap as possible. The one I have looks more like this
The one I have handles low volumes of metal fine, and you can set the temperature. It works well.
I found coal foundries dirty and annoying, but they can be effective, temp is hard to keep consistent
A propane foundry is relatively cheap since you just replace the propane you use.
Amazon has a foundry burner for $100, but it works well. There are also DIY ones https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Foundry-Burner-Regulator-Gauge/dp/B01FTGA720
Building a foundry can be done with refractory cement, steel container and a lid. I bought a fireplace stainless steel container. Cut the lid and used that. I used ceramic fiber to insulate and it works amazingly. Cut a hole in the side and top for putting in the material and the foundry burner.
I get my aluminum from my cans of soda and hard drives that need to be destroyed. There are endless ways to get metal
Let me know if you have any questions or want pics
I feel like it would work really well to remove the crucible from the furnace but I would be really weary of pouring it. I'm sure it would work, but if you have more than 2 lbs. of metal in the pot, it may become a bit tricky to safely pour using the diggers.
This tong comes with a #3 crucible for cheaper than that digger. If the size is absolutely too small, then..
This bigger tong is the same cost as the post hole digger.
both are built to remove the crucible and pour (in two different positions)
I'm not sure, I've only dealt with electric. It's the way to go imho, they can even be used indoors. I bought my A1 Kanthal element which will work for melting silver and gold over at Budget Casting Supply.
Two elements will run about $50. One element will work for your build and you'll have a backup. The next thing you need to control the oven is a PID controller and solid state relay to switch it all on and off.
This is the PID and SSR I bought which should run you less than $40.
For the furnace body you ca use a metal bucket with DIY refractory mix (perlite, sodium silicate, furnace cement, sand, etc.) And cut a groove for your element. Minimum stretched length is listed on the budget casting site but I think it's like 120 inches.
This is just a really basic run down but the other stuff like an on and off switch, fuse and the like are pretty straight forward.
I do like the idea, but for my purely aesthetic purposes i would like something more traditional. along these lines but completely devoid of any markings... https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-80005-Ingot-Mould/dp/B000N8HW46 Knowing that people have good results from cast iron is a big help though, so now i know what to keep an eye out for.
leather boots, no steel toes. I use a pair of spats over my boots. I started using them recently, and they are a bit more work to be safe, but I like the comfort knowing I wont get any metal in my laces.
I drew up the schematic.
All components came from Digikey. Be cautious when tuning: those capacitors, despite being rated for 2kV and for AC operation, are actually being run near the limit of their ripple current capacity. You may need to change them if you want to run at higher frequency or higher voltage.
The transistors are rated to 200V. The peak voltage they see is approximately the supply voltage * pi, so don't set your supply voltage over about 63V.
For initial testing and debugging, run the main power supply at much lower voltage. 12V-20V at 3-4A should be plenty. The circuit is basically a resistive load with some ripple; doubling the supply voltage will require twice the current and give you four times the power. So if you're running at 20V and 3A for a test run, that will scale nicely to 60V and 9A. (You can actually do your first test with the main power supply disconnected. If there's no work piece, it should oscillate and turn on both LEDs just from the control power. Waveforms might look a little odd, though.)
The load the circuit sees is highly dependent on your workpiece and work / coil layout. It's quite possible to overload your power supply if you're not careful.
Be careful with your layout; stray inductance matters, and weird resonances could cause problems for your transistors.
Digikey part numbers: - Capacitors: 399-6244-ND - Input inductor: 2x (series) M8836-ND - Transistors: IRFP250MPBF-ND - Heat sinks: RA-T2X-38E-ND - Heat sink pads: BER169-ND
I purchased both power supplies on eBay. Details shouldn't matter much, but it helps if the 60V supply is somewhat adjustable and has overcurrent and short circuit protection. I used a TDK Lambda SWS600L that I got cheap. I also put a cheap voltage / current meter on the 60V supply (Amazon or similar).
Instead of a kit I'd recommend just getting an electric one.
The only reason to build one is because you like building or you want to do large pours.
You know, I'm not sure. I almost got a weed burner.
I ended up getting this off of amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6H6MEY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have used charcoal up until now to do ~10 lbs melts. I have not tried that burner, yet.
this is awesome, this is where my 2 hobbys meet... vaping and metal casting..
The wire used is a resistance wire, typically nicrhome or kanthal. These are the same wire used in electric kilns for pottery as well as for vaping on a smaller scale.
You apply electricity to the coil, and it uses that to create energy in the form of resistance = heat.
the biggest problem you are going to have is sizing things, but i think you can use a PID to control everything. look on amazon, they are cheap. it has a thermocouple so you can set a heat point and it will turn on/off as needed to maintain that heat.
the coil of wire you can either buy raw kanthal and coil it yourself, or you can hit up a ceramics supply warehouse and buy a kiln rebuilding coil.
you have to learn a little science to use it safely.. ohms law.. basically, the wire has so much resistance per foot, and you want to make sure you use the right length to match your electric source. Your wall outlet is 120v, and most outlets are 15A, with that knowledge, you can then build a coil of X ohms resistance, to make sure its below 80% of that 15A circuit. (of course if you have 220v all the better as they typically can handle more power in the circuit) now wrap that coil in a cylinder some firebricks, and make CERTAIN that it doesn't touch itself (creating a short that will burn up your electric circuit) and BAM there you go. its about as simple as you can get for an electric kiln type operation.
Cost effective for metal work? not really. cool factor, kinda high..
Its used in ceramics becuase you want to slowly heat up the piece to drive out the water so it doesnt explode.. where as with metal, we just go full bore, so maybe better for heat treating as you can control the temps quite easily.
I use this propane regulator, I'm sure you can find something similar with the correct connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VLW464/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This uses the same connector as a barbecue LP Gas connection. It also fits a common rubber hose w/LH thread hardware (Which I covered with 1/2" Flexible electrical conduit).
I never did find whoever was responsible for the styrofoam idiocy, but then again, it was probably someone recycling range lead at 400' C...
In my personal opinion, use a refractory blanket or High grade fire clay (aluminium oxide and silica). you can find that Here
ping /u/rcm024
$15?! link? if you're paying only $15 for graphite you'll be getting something slightly bigger than a thimble. this is the one I got. $36. the opening is big enough to melt cans. I wish I went bigger. next time.
With the lost wax casting I've done (in silver and brass, mostly) the investment was heated to around 1200 degrees. A hot mold is what you want, it'll keep your metal from being bound up in the sprues as easily. Also http://www.amazon.com/Practical-Casting-Reference-Revised-Edition/dp/096159845X/ is the best.
Instead of a leather apron I recommend going whole hog and getting a leather welding jacket like this one.
Just a clear face shield is okay. You don't need a welding mask, but that one definitely looks cool, so consider it.
Leather chaps over work pants. Or if it's a light job, tie one or two strategic bandanas to your knees.
Wear work boots, either foundry boots with a flap of leather over the laces, or unlaced slip-on workboots. Make sure your pants are not tucked into your boots!
While you pour, don't freak out if you spill. If you can, have someone there to sweep it up or move it away from anything flammable one you've walked away.
After you pour, whenever you drop hot metal into a room-temp container, hold something over it, like your tongs or a crucible, in case it pops.
I tried steel a few times but they were only good for 0.5 to 2 heatings before burning through.
Cast iron pots do a lot better for me. Sometimes you might find one for a few dollars at a flea market or garage sale (probably dirty, but not a big problem for you).
But the pot I usually use is actually purchased. Or a smaller one - I actually recently saw this exact pot for sale at a hardware store near the bbq's for like $7.
You need a hack saw to cut the arm off. each pot lasts me roughly 20-50 heat/cool cycles and at least double that number of pours. Some of my meltings are pretty long, too, when I'm melting a few hundred cans it can take hours.
The larger 2.5 qt. holds about 14 pounds of aluminum (~600 cans' worth), the smaller 15 oz holds about 2.5 pounds.
Graphite would last longer, but you can't bang on graphite with a hammer and screw driver to remove slag or grab the edge with tongs to pull it out of your furnace.