I seem to recall that Cloanto removed the encryption key file in the more recent versions of Amiga Forever.
TITLE
Location of "rom.key" File
TOPIC
Q: I am following some instructions that mention a "rom.key" file. Where can I find it?
DISCUSSION
A: Amiga Forever Plus Edition ROMs are not encoded, and thus do not need a "rom.key" file. In such a scenario, if you found some instructions that reference a "rom.key" file, just ignore the part about the file, and they should work.
ROM encoding was added to the Amiga Forever, UAE and Fellow projects in 1997, and remains a supported option. Where ROMs are encoded, the "rom.key" file is located in the same directory as the ROM files. Detection by third-party applications is usually automatic, as encoded ROMs can be recognized by their header and the location of the "rom.key" file, if present, has never changed.
Amiga Forever has a ROM troubleshooting feature that can be accessed via Help/Developer/Write Log File. The resulting report includes details about installed ROM files, which can be used to confirm whether the desired ROMs are present.
For licensing reasons, the free Amiga Forever Express Edition continues to use encoded ROMs. The ROM files are decoded following registration or an upgrade.
Related Links
ROM and Operating System Files in Amiga Forever
WHDLoad Support in Amiga Forever
Player and Plugin Logging Options
Amiga ROM Versions
Article Information
Article ID: 16-128
Platform: Windows
Products: Amiga Forever
Additional Keywords: None
Last Update: 2018-12-01
To connect two devices to each other directly with an ethernet cable you need a special kind of cable known as a crossover cable. The cable you have is most likely what is know as a patch or straight cable. You can buy a cheap crossover cable on Monoprice or Amazon or they also make a crossover adapter you can use to turn patch cables into crossover cables. I use one of those adapters to connect directly into systems at work all the time.
Ok, that all sounds good. Maybe try completely unpairing the controller and repairing it. If that still doesn't work then yeah, I'd suggest trying a different Bluetooth adapter. I use this one and it works great with my DualSense controller: BT5 Adapter
It's this one but I don't see the black with clear top pictured here available on Amazon. I have the all black one linked here.
Interesting. I wasn't aware you could pull audio on the VGA port. I've used an HDMI to VGA adaptor which pulls out audio, then used a VGA to SCART.
Not sure if any of that helps, just sharing what worked for me.
Interesting. I wasn't aware you could pull audio on the VGA port. I've used an HDMI to VGA adaptor which pulls out audio, then used a VGA to SCART.
Not sure if any of that helps, just sharing what worked for me.
How are getting composite? Is it from the IO Board and another adaptor?
The reason I ask is that I'm using a headphone to RCA cable similar to this one for my audio from the IO Board.
Then you just add a Y connector like this one to combine the signals. Or you could possibly get by using just the Left (white) and setting the games to Mono if that's an option. Those were my solutions 25 years ago when I was using a Commodore 1701 monitor.
Happy gaming!
Maybe consider using it wirelessly then https://misterfpga.org/viewtopic.php?t=1888
Thanks for the suggestion! And you can confirm wifi survives a soft reboot?
So weird that people aren't giving you what you asked for.
Here's the one I use on the MiSTer: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0963K3ZF2
I can confirm that it works with both WiFi and Bluetooth as advertised. Just be sure to run the relevant set up scripts on the MiSTer.
I'm looking at this card . Is there any reason this wouldnt work with MiSTer?
tiny cheap bluetooth adapter from amazon has been really good for me: ZEXMTE USB Bluetooth Adapter 4.0, 5.0..
https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0775YF36R?ref_=pe_19115062_429603572_302_E_DDE_dt_1
once it’s set up, i can now turn on mister and power on a ps4 controller and it reconnects really seamlessly and nicely. i’ve had better experience with this bluetooth experience than using the 8bitdo stuff personally. it’s been a lot more “it just works”
Your kit probably already has it inside, but disabled, in your build. The video above shows what that entails. Otherwise, you need to order these and install one of them into the port area: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077957RN7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I'm pretty sure that doesn't even include the DE-10 nano.
All you really need to play NeoGeo (well, everything), is a DE-10 Nano ($218 US), $8 OTG Micro USB hub (https://smile.amazon.com/MakerSpot-Accessories-Charging-Extension-Raspberry/dp/B01JL837X8), and 128MB RAM module ($65). DE-10 Nano comes with an 8GB SD card that will fit tons of games on it (you can use a usb thumb drive if you want).
>You could also use a USB SD card reader and SD card, I think, if you had a 2nd SD card you wanted to use.
Second paragraph of my comment:
"All other roms and computer files (including the X68000) can be loaded from a second 512GB MicroSD card, when used with a USB adapter. The MicroSD card and adapter are inserted into a USB hub attached to the MiSTer."
I can’t vouch for the quality but a simple HDMI audio extractor would also most likely work:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084RN22MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FAAFQKGTWG87Y98BGR8X
A bit cheaper than an IO board.
There's a newer method of analog output that works through the digital output board, too; it sends a non-standard signal out the HDMI port. HDMI monitors have no idea what to do with it, but you connect an adapter, and can then plug into a CRT, without needing the analog board.
I agree wholeheartedly with /u/Sketchyboywonder; spend as little as you can up front (typically the Mister itself, a 128MB stick of DRAM), and then add on based on how you like it and what you do with it.
The DE-10's OTG port (a form of USB) is pretty weak and easily screwed up. Buying an official USB daughterboard will let you use a hard 180-degree connector so that it's not stressed at all. But you can also use an outboard hub with an OTG cable, which are available for like $7, if you can be really sure that you're not putting any stress on the port. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JL837X8. It's gone up to $8 now. I've since replaced it with a $50 USB switchbox so I can swap between the computer and the Mister with the same set of peripherals.
So your minimum really isn't bad; DE-10, 128MB of SDRAM, OTG hub. You can experiment from there, figure out what you like, and add pieces to suit.
That's one way to go.
I purchased a pair of 512 GB Micro SDXCs a few months ago, so that I'll never run out of room on my MiSTer for adding software to any core.
And if I need to add files that are too large to quickly transfer over FTP, I can insert one of the micro SD cards into my PC and perform a drag-and-drop there, then return the card to the MiSTer. Easy and hassle-free.
My MiSTer is also nicely compact, with just two cables out the back. 😊
Yeah I know, what I meant was this is too much for a CEC blocker... Same adapter on DE for less than half the price: https://www.amazon.de/LINDY-HDMI-Less-Adapter-Female/dp/B00DL48KVI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=25B8307PGHG8I&keywords=cec+blocker&qid=1653793914&sprefix=cec+%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-3
I'm pretty sure I've seen cheaper ones too!
Yeah, putting in a bigger card is a good idea, or using a network share. (which is fastest, overall, once you have it running.) I'd suggest getting a "high endurance" card that's still classed as high speed. The constant updates can put a fair bit of wear on the card.
Here's a 256 gig high endurance Samsung card for $35:
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Endurance-microSDXC-Adapter-Monitoring/dp/B07P4HBRMV
I tend to go the smart appliance route
Kasa Smart Plug Ultra Mini 15A, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, UL Certified, 2.4G WiFi Only, 1-Pack(EP10), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091699Z3W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CXEVCG5N23QGR0TQ9SDP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BTSH2HW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I'm not entirely thrilled with it, as my main computer has a weird habit of locking up when switching back to it. All USB input through that hub is lost, and even if I move the mouse directly to another USB port (where it works), the computer will no longer shut down cleanly. Something gets seriously wedged.
This could be another iteration of the X570 USB issues; it may not be a problem with the switcher at all. But I don't think I would use that specific one. It should give you an idea for other stuff to try, though.
Note that one of the major reasons I bought that one is because it takes external power, rather than depending on any of the switched machines. It does not come with a USB-C power adapter, though, you need to buy one of those too. I just re-used one I had going spare.
I was using just one of the 1.5m USB cables that Nintendo ships with all of their Switch controllers, but found that to be a bit too short even in my relatively compact living room, so I got this 3m cable which works fine so far.
I don't know, BUT... buy this single key from Amazon and map it to the desired keyboard key, and then map pause to that.
Do you happen to know why some adapters don't work with the genesis core? I'm using this Tendak adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B7CEOVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_VMFKH160FN39BKWWNS3S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=.
I double checked and scandoubler was turned off and I couldn't find any genesis specific settings in Mister.ini. I did a lot more testing of cores and I found that the Turbografx core and a ton of arcade cores do the exact same thing as the Genesis core, but also a ton of arcade and console cores work just fine. Do you think my adapter just doesn't like the specific video signal the nonfunctioning cores are sending out?
I am only using direct video as a placeholder until my analog io board shows up, but I would like to have direct video figured out in case dual ram stick setups do indeed end up being required to run the Playstation and Saturn cores.
Just want to add that if you are in europe and using RGB scart one way to possibly tap into the composite sync for the guncon is with a scart switch such as this one
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hama-Scart-Switch-AV-100S-Silver/dp/B0000AHOQP
I have yet to test this myself though
This is what I got. It’s apparently a box of 200 lol
Gikfun 2.54mm Standard Computer Jumper Caps Short Circuit Cap Mini Micro Jumper Bridge Plug for Arduino Wire Connector DIY (Case Pack of 200pcs) EK1928C https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FKFQQC9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_9SFXS5QJ6C4NP9JJAV7C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The last time I set up an "emulation" box ( i know FGPA is not emulation) was my OG xbox. I installed the modchip, gathered all the roms, setup the ini files, added the video previews and boxart, setup custom thumbnails, etc.
I too ordered the MisterAddOns preconfig and haven't researched much yet. I know scripts setup a lot of the cores, but am slightly nervous as well. I got a PNY 1TB SD card which I've always had good luck with. Hoping it works \ is not slow or anyhthing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DL4899L/ref=ppx\_od\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/3M-7-62mm-7-62mm-25-8810-Thermally-Conductive-Adhesive/dp/B06Y31HCDN/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2ZMTVPW1C62EU&keywords=3m+thermal+conductive+tape&qid=1641314998&sprefix=3m+thermal+conductivetape%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-5 Would this be precisely the thing? I did not want to go with off brand -and also sorry for posting links if not allowed, I'll delete the link after I get a confirmation.
Yea that is what I would try. You will definitely need some additional bolts and nuts to attach the two mounts to each other, but I think it will require a piece of plywood to act as basically an adapter between the two mounts. If you get something like this you would attach the TV brackets from it to one side of the plywood and then attach the rotating mount to the other side. Just make sure that you TV and the plywood piece and the rotating mount are not heavier than the mount built into the furniture is designed to handle.
Thanks. I saw the Mount-It website, and that model, and then found on UK Amazon a similar product. It actually uses the same stock photo as that site. https://www.amazon.co.uk/360%C2%B0-Rotating-Wall-Mount-Bracket/dp/B01H060YI4 I'll look into it, but wondering if I could get a high floor TV stand, and affix this wall mount bracket to that, effectively making a non-rotating stand into a rotating one? Would be good if I could. Another option for me to look into though so cheers
I have one of these hooked up to a 15 foot USB cable that I can pull out of my A/V rack and place on my coffee table to plug wired controllers in to:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Charging-Individual-Switches-HB-B7C3/dp/B0797NWDCB/
I switch the upstream plug between my MiSTer, Xbox, Pi, or PC depending on what I'm actually playing. A Logitech keyboard dongle stays plugged in to the first port and the rest are used for whatever I'm actually playing with at the moment, plus there are a few convenient fast-charge ports.
I use the 2.4ghz adapters. I think the multiple controller thing is only for the bluetooth versions. I wish there was a better solution.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Adapter-Control-Switches-HB-U14P/dp/B00HL7Z46K/ I'm going to try this. It gives me more than enough ports. I'm thinking I can use a DC splitter cable like the MiSTer usb hub too.
You'll need to get a separate dongle. I recommend getting one of those wifi & BT in one dongle like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YDFZWT8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1WZVWFS86H4JMS6D4476?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I see you’ve already gotten suggestions but I’ll throw in one more. I bought this for a GBS scaler when I realized I could use it the other day when swapping MiSTer between my TV upstairs to my stream downstairs. Worked great, and puts out the 4A like the Triad suggested (though I know the Triads are supposed to be sort of the standard “known good” options)
[UL Listed] MIXGOO 5V 4A Power Supply Charger (Input AC 100V-240V, Output DC 5 Volt 4 Amp 20 Watt) Adapter Switching Transformer Converter DC 5.5mm x 2.1mm / 5.5mm x 2.5mm Universal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VWVLBWF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N8TX8QHHM2YS40WDV7A6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have had some slight build quality issues with it, but if you’re willing to ignore those problems, the Retro-Bit Saturn controller feels authentic, turns in a pretty decent response time and has been great for playing Mega Drive and 6-button arcade games. Although I’ve only used the wired USB controller, so I can’t guarantee if the above also applies to the wireless version.
The MT-32 is sitting on this geekworl case from Amazon Canada and it's meant to house the Pi 3a specifically.
The two are a great match but I popped some rubber bumpons between the case and the MT-32 and it spaced them apart perfectly.
I use this Tendak HDMI to VGA adapter from Amazon and I can't perceive any lag. Pretty sure it's passive, no external power necessary. Got it for TheC64 Maxi to get an audio out but since I got my MiSTer, I've just been using it to output to a Dell Trinitron P992 VGA monitor and everything just looks friggin awesome. I haven't looked back and I'm about to convert my TheC64 as a USB keyboard for the MiSTer. Before anyone asks why not just use the analog VGA port, it's because I tried it, but if you go through the HDMI port you get to use the built in scaler. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0122NXEEG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XZ6R8TJC4PP12S6896FA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Totally possible. I think the GPIO headers on the DE10 Nano is the same size as the one used by the Raspberry Pi so an extension for the Pi should probably work (they only cost a couple of bucks). Just confirm that they are the same size in width/height/pin spacing as I know they are both 2x20 pin configurations.
Also with just the analog IO board stacked on top of the DE10 it doesn't make the stack that tall. It fits pretty snuggly down over the DE10 board. I bring this up because I don't know the size of that case you linked but I did a build in a mini itx PC case and making everything work with trying to route all the various cables and ports so that they were easy to access was kind of a pain in the ass. That thing looks like the sides are mostly open so I could see cables and stuff sticking out everywhere. This is why I am keeping an eye on the JAMMIX project and the MiSTer Multi-Console project as I think they will make doing this type of thing much cleaner and easier.
Lastly you should check out the build Macho Nacho did. It is a pretty small and clean Hi-Fi inspired build. You might be able to use a couple of his ideas (just not the custom USB cable one, you can buy a micro-a to micro-a cable to connect the USB board instead of making a custom one).
I found this one in another thread. It's been sitting in my cart for a couple days, so next time I have a real need to place an order I'll grab this too.
The DAC on the mister sucks for 3.5mm/optical, you need a cheap external dac such as: PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8B9EACSPSM1FXBBTMXZC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I almost found my dream controller, but the only issue is it doesn't have 8-way directional support so it's hard to play NeoGeo with this thing. But microswitches on a regular gamepad are really awesome, and the analog (which is actually just a d-pad) feels amazing. I like the classic d-pads but have to admit they hurt my thumbs after a while.
I'm waiting for the new 8bitdo arcade stick to come out next month. If it's as good as the n30 Arcade Stick I'll probably just get that and call it a day with these two.