Maybe there's more issues elsewhere, but I think that would look totally fine if you ran a bead of painter's caulk over the cracking on top of the skirting board and then gave it all a new paint. You'll want it to be something flexible like caulk anyway - it is cracking due to the house settling and it is really common even in newer houses with new materials.
For larger plaster issues on walls, you can buy plaster repair screws & washers to hold up cracking plaster - you don't have to chip it all down. They look like this: https://www.amazon.com/Plaster-Repair-Washer-100-Count/dp/B0053Q9QR4 and you just plaster over it to stabilize it. For smaller issues, polyfilla or drywall compound would work too.
Pilot holes are a must. Plaster is hard and/or crumbly sometimes, so just going with a bare nail or a hanger with the nail is trouble. For places like mantels, going to the effort to use a screw is better for weight variations (like draping Christmas decorations or lights over stuff temporarily... Go to Lowes or HD and look in the hardware section for kits...
I love these things
Asbestos containing transite siding is very durable, fire resistant and blocks noise. It can degrade over time and as nails are typically used to fix the siding to a building, these are the weak points where damage or breaking can occur. Typically after inspecting the siding, one can determine the condition. If there are no broken pieces and the plan is to not disturb it, it can be left in place and is a low risk of exposure. The durability would allow for pressure washing and painting if required. I would not recommend covering it as the impact can shatter the siding tiles. Be aware that the siding removal can be brought into negotiations with the seller.
If you are looking to learn more about transite building materials and other tips on asbestos in real estate transactions please read my ebook. It's free for Amazon Kindle unlimited members and a low cost educational guide for non-members.
https://www.amazon.com/Asbestos-Exposed-definitive-identification-including/dp/B08H566HPS
Said another way, or perhaps an entirely different line of questions would be:
If this is our our before: https://www.notion.so/c74fa939cd3549f2ac06a7ae6c6288e8?v=64b473eceb4344ea8395dead6a1e08b3
And this is our inspiration: https://www.remodelista.com/posts/restored-cape-spruce-head-maine-anthony-esteves-house-tour/
How far away are we? What needs to happen? Where to start?
Forget elbow grease! I’ve used these on old penny round and hexagon floors and it definitely beats going it by hand!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P7NFV1F/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_TAJ1C16E2EAYBV51CHJW
i hate that bronze weatherstripping.
i have converted, religiously, to kerf silicone buble weatherstriping.
you use a multitool to cut a slot into the corner where the door closes into the door trim. the silicone is very flexible, and deforms to fit any warped or uneven doors and seals quite well. if it does not seal, just buy some with a bigger diameter bulb for that section.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GTB32NH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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if you install this stuff, rip out the bronze, and it still is binding, then you need to mark where it is binding, take the door off the hinges, and plane the high or warped edge.
Speaking as someone who’s having some of the same electric challenges in a nearly 100-year-old apartment, I absolutely agree with Zombie James and Ennui Kissinger’s advice.
Since I can’t make permanent changes as a renter, I’ve been getting creative (safely) with extension cords + tap-in cable clips, smart bulbs, and labeling the plugs of a lot of my electric devices so that when I have to switch appliances I at least know what cord im tugging at.
Also, I love my Dewenwils remote controlled outlet. It’s kind of a “dumb” smart device that doesn’t require a smartphone or WiFi.
That sounds inexpensive and easy. Thanks again! I'm going to try it.
So you'd avoid this? This is what I ordered and it just arrived:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YQPYGG3?ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details&th=1
Use a profile/contour gauge to copy the shape of the molding. Then take that to a wood or molding shop.
I would not go nuts until you take a water sample to an acreddited lab! those test strips can be WILDLY innacurate!
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i believe those are these strips, but read some of the one-star reviews!
I have a similar setup and haven't replaced it yet (we just moved in a few months ago and have had more pressing issues to handle), but I'm planning on getting a "D" shaped rod like this one instead of the rounded rectangle style we have now.
We had the D style at the last place we rented and it was so much better because you could push the back part almost flush against the wall so you got a few extra inches of upper body space.
I also got a plastic liner meant for a clawfoot instead of using 2 regular liners and it really helped with it staying put.
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peel away is VERY Basic. so after all the stipping is done, you need to neutralize the wood left over with a mild acid. you use a ph test strip to tell you when you have got it to a neutral ph
My husband and I liked this book. Check this out on Amazon Old Windows Made Easy: The Simple Way to Restore Wood Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/1505631424/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_AJAGZ7CNPT3DNW0CAVB2?psc=1
I would suggest some really strong anchors in the ceiling and some sort of suspension/pulley contraption to just lift you in the air as you travel room to room.
As an added benefit your floors will keep their finish longer and stay cleaner.
I agree with tooderoo, that does not look like a 1920's profile. If you still want to replicate it you will need a round over bit. Check the radius of the molding and choose the appropriate bit.
Marianne Cusato's book is a great starting reference and style guide for traditional architectural details: https://www.amazon.com/Get-Your-House-Right-Architectural/dp/1402791038
But yes, you need to hire an architect who will respect your wishes. They all studied traditional architecture in school and will know of reference books to get the style details and floor plans you want. If they can't, just move on to someone who does. Remember they build whatever clients order, so just because they haven't done a project like yours doesn't mean that they can't.
Start taking notes and saving clips of what you like so you can convey it accurately to your team.
It probably depends on curvature of the tub wall but a Sink Tap Hole Cover might do it for you, there are several with different types of fasteners.
You may just have to get a slightly thicker rubber gasket to make it work depending on your tub.
Another less elegant solution would be a rubber Expandable Pipe Plug the hole itself and how smooth it is to apply a good seal could affect it working.
There are other options, but those are where'd I'd start looking.
Best of luck to you.
I use these , they go in at an angle and they really hold up, have not had a problem with them at all.
I use a soft cloth with dish soap and water for something really dusty.
I also have a horsehair polishing brush to use for cleaning hard to reach spots. Horsehair Silver Brush Set | 2 Silver Cleaning Brushes for Detail Polish Work | Fine and Heirloom Silverware, Plateware, Jewelry https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZRB917/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RX50JST038GRKXMRF0NP
I used Wood & Grain Filler By Goodfilla, filled everything from a 1/6 up to half inch (built up over a few applications) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T3HM5TJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_N12RY7WX3VFBXW71T5WA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don't think it's homemade, it kind of looks like Window Door Restrictor Cable, Security Lock And Key, Baby/Child Safety, Multiple Colors White - Retail Packaging https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01FF0NS6C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RMSK4JV1VXNS0KN3KC1R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But ones I've seen like this have keys. Does turning the silver knob do anything?
Not my house... Was restored to original condition including magic chef appliances in the kitchen. http://magicchefmansion.com/
Also order a copy of the victorian country house by Mark Girouard. Fascinating read on victorian architecture and building. The Victorian Country House https://www.amazon.com/dp/0300023901/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_W338T8FPR2V95419F2TB
This is the worlds best mouse trap.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0189BJW82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seriously, we've never had one run away, they are pet proof (no injuries with 3 dogs) and they kill cleanly since the mouse has to go in head first so no stuck legs or anything.
Also if you haven't done it yet make sure you have all food nicely sealed up. Everything in our pantry is in plastic rubber maid totes for this reason.
Let's start with the furnace. Are there isolators on the hangers ? If no, add these. https://www.amazon.com/Homend-Vibration-Removable-Soundproof-Shockproof/dp/B07TX79W2T/ref=asc_df_B07TX79W2T/ Now, this will be a lot easier if you're willing to rework the flooring from above. If so I'll need details on the existing flooring. Message me please.
Omgggg gorgeous. You can get away with such dramatic shapes and textures in there.
A cheap way to put up super expensive art is to go to Goodwill or another thrift store/rummage sale, find a stunning frame, and order a cheap print off of Etsy, or tear out a page of an Art coffee table book.
I’m so jealous - you could get away with anything! Some boucle, velvet, those gorgeous seashell pillows that bring an intense amount of drama… link - so many sculptural elements, and as dramatic as you like. Modern natural (examplemeets quirky, opulent, traditional would slay. Not sure of the colors, you going to keep things neutral or bring rich gem tones into the mix? Some rich gem tones would just kick it up a notch. I own a lot of very heavy Crystal ashtrays and bowls, which would look lovely on a coffee table, so start looking for dramatic pieces from another time to mix with some sleeker elements. I would do some scrolling on interior design TikTok.
My Spanish 20’s house had most of the built ins painted white when we bought it, but same floors as you. We went with a modern sculptural meets Earthy look, a lot of nudes and whites and light wood, and boucle like that dining chair I sent… Sixpenny as well, so linen couches and dining chairs. But this space needs more of a modern ornate gold frame Art feel combined with very striking sculptural couch/unexpected elements look. I envy the drama it will bring!!!
There are modern deadbolts as mentioned in the comments. There are also replacement keys and locksets that replicate the the one pictured. They can be found easily on ebay and amazon.
Also, the linked lockset below works well on most odd thickness doors and is less conspicuous (on the exterior) than the suggested deadbolt in the other comment.
This guy McAlesters
Yes, you can easily use wire curtain hangers with eyelets on the ends. These are common overseas: https://www.amazon.com/OOTSR-Curtain-Plastic-Picture-Hanging/dp/B07HR97RLT/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=wire+curtain+hanging+system&qid=1614287780&sr=8-8
Get Your House Right is an amazing resource for learning about architecture and why some houses just look right and others belong on /r/mcmansionhell
Get Your House Right: Architectural Elements to Use & Avoid https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1402791038/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_AGi6FbH7H9CSX
For more technical info I’d highly recommend John Leeke’s books and his online forum:
http://historichomeworks.com/publications/
Www.oldhouseguy.com also has a ton of great info, books, and recommendations
Awesome! I love me a good deep soak! This is the one that I have, I am sure there are others too.
edit: just dont forget about the water your body mass displaces, or you will have a very wet floor!
Probably not asbestos, but what a mess. Looks like plaster on lathe with an extra layer of drywall? we were worried about our ceiling coming down in places until we discovered these plaster washers that do a great job of securing the plaster to the lathe (or stud) with a drywall screw. So instead of pulling down plaster and creating a god awful mess we are able to secure everything and then just skimcoat over to finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008AY2MS6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Something like this window tool is handy if a putty knife won’t do it. I have some windows that were not only painted shut, but caulked and screwed shut too. If you have broken the paint seal and it still won’t budge, you may need to have a look from the outside to find the culprit.
I like it! As a side note, your artistic style instantly took me back to a childhood book called “Sticky Stanley” from the 1970’s.
Edit: here it is! Sticky Stanley https://www.amazon.com/dp/0816700346/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oiMeFb8M5135P