What are
/r/OpenDogTraining's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/OpenDogTraining:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/OpenDogTraining:
The Great Courses
Wordnik
Jumpshare
The most popular reviews in /r/OpenDogTraining:
What training does your older dog have? If you don't have a place cue, I suggest training one and using it liberally ... for both dogs. Use tethers if needed. They aren't going to magically learn to be calm around each other. You have to train that.
Multi-Dog Household has some great techniques in it too. In my opinion, all dogs in a multidog household should have, or be working towards:
- Formal place cue.
- Informal mat cue.
- Wait cue.
- Turn taking cues (I use name -> cue and practice whenever I'm giving things out, or doing multi-dog training sessions).
- Crate cue.
Have you tried a flirt pole? It’s kind of like a giant cat toy and you can move it around to mimic small animal movement. My dogs love it and get super engaged. Then I used the e collar to get a solid “out” command to get them to disengage while in motion, and also to drop it when they catch it. Might be worth a try!
If you're having to crate her for hours to create drive, ask the trainer to guide you on a different way. Is it the rest you want her to get, or is it to keep her frustrated?
Ok, I get your concern, it wasn't apparent in your OP. What about having her on a long line tied to you/anchored to where you are working? That would have an added benefit of mat training too to teach some impulse control and default teach a very strong place command which is really useful in sports. Only the best things happen around you (fun treats, frozen kongs, great puppy friendly things to chew on). Playing only happens with you. Outside only happens with you. It does suck for the first 30-45 days but then once you've re-established that bond that YOU are the BEST THING, you'll be able to be a little less rigid.
I don't know how into reading about dog psychology you are, but this is the book I was told to read by more than a few people and it really helped me establish a relationship with my adult WLGSD. https://www.amazon.com/Dog-Sports-Skills-Book-Relationship/dp/0988781808
​
Edited to say I live alone with a WLGSD and work out of the house - I completely sympathize with you! It's not easy.
We have this one for out back when we are hanging out here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089W1YLJP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d85.FbKP5ZM36 we have a 40ft one which let's her walk around most of the backyard but since we don't have a fence I don't want to take any chances while we still work on her recall. No complaints
Yes! Ever since highschool I have been reading book on reactivity. Every book I have read has had something that I don't necessarily agree with but that's just the truth about dog training. It doesn't make it bad just everyone uses different methods. I just wanted to say that so you would go into this understanding that although I really recommend a lot of her tactics there may be somethings may ignore and that's alright.
It's called Your End of the Lead by Janet Finlay. It's not the classic step by step book on "curing" reactivity, but an in depth study on how the handler needs to understand things in order to handle a reactive dog. Of course there still is a big section of the book dedicated to training techniques, but it is much more helpful (at least to me) in educating the handler.
I have a high energy GSP/ACD mix and she is similar - can walk perfectly on leash but sometimes turns into a big puller to greet dogs or follow scents. She is 50 lbs but is super strong physically and strong-willed. I bought this bike attachment and it's pretty sturdy. It's not cheap but I think you get what you pay for. I've been using it with her for a few weeks biking around our neighborhood and on a few occasions she's seen a dog and pulled pretty hard. I feel it for sure but have never even been close to being pulled down. I just keep pedaling and she resumes running normally. Hopefully someone else has advice about handling distractions while biking because I need it too!
LAT is so effective! It comes from this book, which I also highly recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Control-Unleashed-Creating-Focused-Confident/dp/B000UCF53A
​
A trainer I worked with recently told me "don't sacrifice progress for perfection" and that really just changed my interpretation of how we are progressing!
Hi thanks for coming back to me! :) I have this slip lead: Dog & Field Deluxe Gundog Slip Lead (Green) Super Soft Braided Nylon with Rubber Stopper - One Size Fits All and Suitable For All Breeds of Dog with 4 Colour Options (Green) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N4WX0D0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_VFYW0MDSX3P7YDPRBZNG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The stopper is pretty good but it must be coming undone as it is moving down from behind the ears - I don’t know that’s the problem :/ he has a very thick ruff like a collie around his neck and it is causing me problems with keeping the leash in the right place...!
The micro educator was long overdue!!!
I ended up getting a collar on amazing and just adding extra holes to it. The bungee was too big for me too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FT0TWUE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My dog is 25lbs though and has the regular (we bought it a few years ago) but I would have bought this one for sure. Just letting you know there are probably other options like this!
- Consider getting a referral to a veterinary dermatologist if you're having ongoing ear issues (and you haven't already). They actually the specialists in charge of ear based issues, including chronic infections, inflammation, and other ear based issues. There might be a nice, long term solution for you and your dog.
- I'd go back to basics and back chain the entire process of ear drops through cooperative care. Something like Deb Jones' process in her book would work. This one. I'm actually a super big fan of the start button behaviors (in particular, chin rest) to help with cooperative care. Both my dogs loathed ear based processes, but I took the time over months to CC/DS the entire process in small increments, using start button behaviors to 'buy in', and it really did wonders. Both dogs happily 'opt in' now for anything ear based.
FYI, there are clickers that have adjustable tones. I've never tried one myself, but I've heard of them.
Here is one on amazon I think.
Hey thanks for letting me know. I couldn't drop $300 on collars but didn't even think to check on ebay. That model sounds great although I did end up finding a great model on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TDCWDRF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The distinguishing feature here was that it allowed me to not only pick between collar A or B, but you can also choose to trigger BOTH the collars at once which was huge. My dogs are clicker trained, but the problem is that if one does good, the clicker sounds for both of them obviously. So my hope of using the ecollar as a clicker substitute to signify GOOD behavior should work out really well since I can choose dog A, B or both. The stimulus sensitive was great too. It goes from 1 to 100 and you couldn’t even feel it on the lower settings. And you can set separate stimulus and vibration levels for each dog.
​
If these don't work out, I'll definitely check ebay for the Dogra arc versions.
Looks too small. I'd size up, but the size up might be too wide for their face. I have had better luck with the wire basket muzzles like this one fitting better (https://www.amazon.com/Yinrikom-Breathable-Adjustable-Suitable-Medium-Sized/dp/B08PSVTX7M/ref=sr_1_13_sspa?crid=1W371AVTJFNU8&keywords=wire%2Bbasket%2Bmuzzle&qid=1671636363&s=pet-supplies&sprefix=wire%2Bbasket%2Bmuzzle%2Cpets%2C230&sr=1-13-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMFVURzNTU0gxTlMyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjIwNTAxU0RQVUhGSlAwTEpRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwOTM5MzRUT1VXNFhGVktFUlYmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1)
Bones Would Rain from the Sky is one of my favorites!
try this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076VNKK3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got one for my doberman. way more spacious and the whole thing can be modified via a heat gun for a most customized fit. I just make sure to clip it to the collar via a carabiner, so she can't slip out.
My favorite for basically everyone to read because it's so helpful and gives you a really good framework is Canine Enrichment for the Real World. Full disclosure, I'm a LIMA trainer as are the authors, but I don't find the book to be particularly "preachy" if that's something you're worried about.
As a trainer, the biggest issues I get regularly are just people who do not meet their dog's base needs. All the behavior problems that they're having suddenly decrease tenfold when a good enrichment plan is put in place.
What I really love about the book is that it looks at all sorts of enrichment - enrichment has become a bit of a "buzz word" that means puzzle toys. That's not actually what a good enrichment plan is! It's individualized for the dog and their needs.
But it's a nice book that lays out the categories for enrichment that are needed (with references to back up their claims) and they pull from zoology research while still giving actual suggestions for things that do work in our "real world" as zoos obviously have more control over the environment than we often do when talking about our dogs.
The Dog: its Behavior, Nutrition, and Health (Second Edition) is a amazing book that I'm currently reading, it goes over a lot, and it's easy to understand considering it's a college level textbook. Hope this helps!
I rotate between 5 sets of Mini Educators. Have had all 5 for years, and they're still performing flawlessly. Can't recommend them enough. Buy the good stuff once, and be done with it IMO.
Another thing worth noting is the contact prongs are really important for proper effectiveness.
I highly recommend this particular contact setup for a long thick haired breed like yours.
This cat is teasing the cr*p out of the dog, of course he'd want to give chase!
Here's an idea, get another crate like this
and stick some tin foil on top of it, some cats hate that type of surface. Just anything that make the cat hates jumping on there.
But yeah, like everyone else said, this situation needs to be addressed. Because you don't know where the dog's threshold is, he might one day decides it's enough, and attacks the cat. And he won't be the one to blame. Please make sure both animals have their safe space.
Oh my god, do you get the ear-splitting super sonic whinging too? I hate it. You can never make it fully go away but you can decrease it.
How much mental stimulation is he getting? Too much physical exercise has a bit of an opposite effect on GSDs, sometimes.
It all starts with impulse control. Karen Overall's protocol is a good place to start, then you can start with Control Unleashed.
Would your dog do well in a soft crate? example
I usually start working on those issues with Look At That/Look And Dismiss (also called engage/disengage - I just learned it as LAT/LAD, so that's what I call it!).
Here's a good video on how to teach it, and how to use it when seeing those triggers: https://youtu.be/EdraNF2hcgA
What I really like about this technique (and make sure to prioritize getting to LAD over getting less distance!) is that it teaches the dog to self-dismiss those triggers.
I will say right now that you'll need more than just basic LAT for prey drive, but starting with it is going to be a great foundation. Later for critters, I like to do a lot of premack principle.
I haven't yet fully read the book (it's short, but I've got so many things on my to-read list!), but I've gotten through a good portion and watched several seminars by the author and I like Hunting Together by Simone Mueller. It takes the idea that dogs are naturally prey driven (in most cases) and it's good for them to be able to work on the predation sequence up to a certain point. You can also use portions of that predation sequence to reinforce paying attention to you, for example.
Brushing is regularly called the gold standard for a reason. Raw bones and dental treats are good, but nothing works as well as brushing. Depending on genetics and environmental factors you may still need the occasional sedated cleaning done, but brushing is a fantastic way to upkeep dental health.
The cooperative care book is a good starting place for brushing. Get started before his baby teeth are gone! It can take some time to build a full mouth brushing routine.
To be moderately effective, brush at least twice a week. However, more often is better. Just like with humans, brushing daily prevents plaque from hardening into tartar on the teeth.
Do not use regular toothpaste! It is toxic to dogs. There are special formulated animal toothpastes that comes in appealing flavors like peanut butter or chicken. You can use a human toothbrush but they also make dog specific brushes that can sometimes be easier to use
I have always used a Springer with my dogs, and that works really well too!
Start with more distance. There is some distance where he will be able to look at the dog and not react.
Personally, I really like BAT 2.0, because the dog is at liberty, and is able to think through the problems. There is a really good podcast episode on the canine paradigm with the creator of BAT, and I would give it a listen.
Even if you chose a different approach, more distance will help.
At the heart of this, this is a relationship problem first, training problem second. The good news is you can solve both of these problems simultaneously, but it’s going to take time and patience.
You have a dog that could not form long lasting attachments and was let down over and over again during the first year of his life. It’s going to take time for this dog to relax and start placing value in humans as the most important thing in the world. It’s going to take baby steps before he realizes you are going to be a constant in his life and you make his life a whole lot happier and easier.
I have a dog like this (3 homes in her first 8 months of life) and it wasn’t until I had her for about 6 months before she started to choose me over the environment in high distraction places.
I worked at her own pace and under threshold as much as possible. The base of everything was R+ and I used tools as needed for management or to refine specific skills she was proficient in. Leash pops for attention when she was over threshold were a last resort not a first choice for management. I used an e-collar to proof recall, and a choke chain/prong to teach leash manners via leash pressure.
A couple things that have helped:
I would look into BAT 2.0. This is what made the biggest difference for me and my reactive dog. The basic idea is to find a distance where the enviroment is more interesting than the other dog, and work there. If the dog isn't that interested in the enviroment, you add more distance, and make the other dog less interesting, instead of trying to make your self more interesting.
She also has an episode on the canine paradigm.
The best martingale I've tried so far is this one, by Mighty Paw:
I prefer the chain, since you seem to be able get a little more activation than with the all nylon components and the leather doesn't get gross or rough up my dog's coat as much. :)
I would look into BAT 2.0
I would think it would work pretty well with your dog, since his threshold is pretty high. Start with a dog across the street, then in the middle of the street, and so on.
Have you heard of clicker training? The click is a marker. Another common marker is the word "Yes!"
A marker tells the animal that a treat is coming. Rather than fumbling around in your bag and missing the moment that your dog did the correct action, you can use a marker and communicate "I like the exact action you were doing right then."
Karen Pryor popularized marker training for pets, her book Don't Shoot the Dog! makes a great foundation for training.
I really like BAT training. Basically, the idea is to find a distance where your dog will dismiss a dog in favor of the enviroment, and working from there.
I use a leerburg leather leash and their two prong adapter that I hook onto the back of a very minimal harness (wonder walker). I like this set up as I can take the two prong off and out it on whenever I want/need: https://www.amazon.com/Leerburg-Amish-Leather-Leash-Adapter/dp/B016KZU0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?crid=XGAGI58KEUXB&keywords=leerburg+leash&pscroll=1&qid=1662613311&sprefix=leerburg%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-17&wIndexMainSlot=26
They also sell a variety of leashes with the two prongs as a whole unit, here’s an option: https://www.amazon.com/Leerburg-Amish-Leather-Prong-Collar/dp/B009AG4WTK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=XGAGI58KEUXB&keywords=leerburg+leash&qid=1662613260&sprefix=leerburg%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-4
I’ve put my pups raw food in one of the large silicone stasher bags and used a large spoon to feed it to him while on walks while we were doing training. There are different size options depending on how big you need it to be
This is the link
Not the way they phrased it. OP said they were having some success with a prong, and this comment removed all nuance from the situation, and instead replied with a blanket statement.
Puppy classes are really hit or miss, and they aren't necessarily set up to deal with reactivity. A trainer could be great at teaching a loose leash walk and teaching sit as a way to say please, and have nothing to offer a reactive dog. There are some great +R reactivity methodolgies, but a lot of puppy trainers aren't familiar with them, and they would serve to just confuse OP. It isnt useful or constructive to bash the tool OP is using, particularly while replacing it with something that might not work.
Personally, I would suggust a BAT trainer, or at least someone who is familiar with BAT. I would also suggust the book BAT 2.0 by Grisha Stewart as a starting place. It's quite possible that OP won't need a prong if they properly implement BAT protocols (or other +R methods) but until they find success elsewhere, they can keep the prong. Also, there is always the chance of human error, and if they want to keep the prong on for safety, that's okay too.
I personally like to use a crash tested crate for my car, as I don’t feel comfortable using wire or fabric crates incase of an accident
But if you need a good fabric crate just for temporary travel, I recently got a PetsFit folding soft crate on Amazon for my new puppy as I take him to work with me almost daily, and I love it. Incredibly easy to take up and down and it folds down almost flat, even came with a free mat.
This is the link
Not sure if you want a concealed one or not but I found this to work awesome for our golden retriever - Robert Cabral suggested going w/ a smaller size and buying two collars and using the prongs from both to get it to fit. It pretty much blends right in and because it's taught it doesn't jingle or make any clunky noises. It had never dawned on me to buy a second collar to get the length right but this worked perfect for us!
We got a 2-pack of the 2.25mm collars and used maybe half the links from the second collar (we got both for $14, they're definitely more expensive today but wow they make a good quality product nice rounded edges smooth bends - good stuff). Good luck!
https://www.chewy.com/herm-sprenger-ultra-plus-training-dog/dp/141936
Have you tried increasing distance?
I have a frustrated greeter, and the first thing I tried was keeping him in a command, and rewarding that (sit, heel etc). He was able to get within thirty feet of other dogs before he reacted.
I swithced to Behavior Adjustment Training after I listened to a podcast with the author and his treshold went up to like 200 ft, but once we were there, we were able to start working on his issues while he was at liberty instead of in command, and that helped a lot.
I would check out those resourses, and see if that helps, and then maybe do a modified version? If you can't find a distance far enough away because of the sight lines at your house, you could start with a person as far away as possible, and then wait for him to calm down, without the person getting closer. Once he calms down, you can reward, remove the person and try again?
BAT 2.0 made the biggest difference for my dog. I went to both the local trainers and two online trainers before someone recommended BAT, and it's the only thing that made a difference.
There is also an episode of the canine paradigm with the author which is almost as good.
Well, be careful with your little dudes trachea. Small dogs have a much higher risk of trachea collapse with anything thin around their necks.
I got my little dude a martingale meant for Italian greyhounds, in a 1.5” in thickness, as not to have pressure too much in one spot on the throat. And I use a leash intended for cats and small dogs, nylon 6ft long & 3/8” thickness so super lightweight, that I bought on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OGRDK0?ref_=cm_sw_r_ud_dp_6YM5JY5N6A9Y3RQHR6T2 PetSafe Nylon Dog Leash - Strong, Durable, Traditional Style Leash with Easy to Use Bolt Snap - Available in Multiple Widths and Colors
I got the nylon martingale collar at Caninuscollars.com, they offer smaller and larger thicknesses (3/4” all the way up to 2” thickness) and they custom make every order. After you place the order for what you want, they’ll email you for more details (exact neck measurement and age) before they produce your item. I even sent them a pic of my big little dude.
Mine is a 20lb mixed breed and this is the combination that works the best for us for training and walking purposes after searching, buying and missing the mark a bunch for what I was looking for. Good luck! ♥️🐾
Hey man. I learned almost everything from this book. I have trained 4 dogs start to finish using these methods and also use them for my other dogs (professional dog caregiver).
You can get the book for less than $5USD. Learning how to train properly is crucial to understand before you attempt to train your dog. I also really sounds like your guy needs a routine in his life and a lot more exercise.
Sorry you've been getting such critical responses. It can be very difficult and stressful training a dog. Respect that you don't want to give up!
Your walks sound fine to me! I would listen to this episode of the canine paradigm. Grisha Stewart talks about how her dog could be in command and fine ten feet from a dog and then react to a dog 200 feet away when out of command. I know the same thing was true for my dog. She developed Bat training to help train dogs when they are at liberty. It is the only thing I have had success with, although it is slow in the beginning.
I haven't personally used it on a high drive dog, but I assume as long as the dog is properly exercised (mentally and physically) it would work.
I also really like Jay Jack with the GRC dogtalk podcast. He hasn't updated it recently, but he is great for pet training.
Between that and the canine paradigm, I have enough content that I don't need to find anything else XD.
I don't have access to a local trainer, so I really like positive first trainers. I feel more comfortable implementing reward based methods without direct supervision. I have done a lot of research on ecollars, and I know the theory (or five theories XD) but I still haven't implemented it.
I also like the book BAT 2.0 by Grisha Stewart. It's a force free method to train reactivity, and I am having great results.
I used a prong with my frustrated greeter, and it worked great. My dog was happy, didn't react, seemed more in control of himself... except the trainer I worked with never told me how to get rid of it, and the second it came off he was back to his old self, so I don't think he really learned anything.
I switched to BAT training (without a trainer) and I'm having much better success. I don't think there is anything wrong with using a prong, but it didn't work for me.
Try these out too, I swear by this after trying multiple methods and brands:
I found that finger "brushes" are more effective than an actual toothbrush, simple because you can get all surfaces more easily if pup likes to wiggle around, and you won't end up jabbing them in the back of the mouth with the top of the toothbrush. The cloth ones are really nice since they're more effective at grabbing plaque than silicone, and they are easy to wash with some hot water and soap, and then air dry. Just a heads up that those finger brushes in particular might be hard to get on large fingers; I have skinny fingers and I still find them a bit tight. I assume they make different sizes, so you might need to shop around.
I really like that brand of toothpaste too, my boy never has "doggy breath", and his teeth are sparkling white! He seems to really like the flavor too, even more than ones that are advertised as food-flavored. Plus it's a clear gel so it doesn't leave any weird residue, and doesn't foam at all, but still cleans effectively. I think I've gone through about 5 or 6 tubes of the stuff, and I'm really happy with how well it works.
no, with training in stages, that won't happen, or they do bolt, you call them back & they come back, I don't mind my dog bolting as long as it's not out of, or almost out of sight, and I know it's a harmless chase, otherwise I'll call him in.
I have not trained my dog not to bolt, or chase, but over the years he has some pretty good guesses as to what I'll allow.
I like this book as a how to, if you are asking for yourself or other readers looking for instruction. E-Collar Training for Pet Dogs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FRCY4QV/ref=dbs_a_def_awm_bibl_vppi_i0
E-collar Technologies has a good 'basic recall' video, but you have to be on their fb group to get the password, I think.
I've done a little BAT training. It's hard to find unknown dogs for set ups, so I haven't made as much progress as I'd like, but the set ups have been a success.
I like that there are no treats involved because treats just distract my dog.
There is an episode on the Canine Paradigm with Grisha Stewart, and that is a good interduction. It's what convinced me to buy the book.
Simone Mueller's predation substitution training and rocket recall book. She runs courses, webinars, and other stuff on occasion all based on the same principal of using your dog's desire to hunt to build recall.
It’s not opinion it’s science. The dog doesn’t actually retain very much moving from a stale environment to a higher distraction environment but the reverse is true. And this is why world champions (that I named in my previous comment) teach through play (high arousal) rather than food and also why they don’t teach in stale environment. I suggest this book if you wanna learn more https://www.amazon.ca/Play-Shapes-Brain-Imagination-Invigorates/dp/1583333789/ref=asc_df_1583333789/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293008485980&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7567630577090119903&hvpone=&hvptwo=&h...
Theres an ecollar technologies one that is fantastic. Its what I use and its what I recommend for all of my clients.
Best one Ive ever worked with, hands down. And I have handled thousands of dogs and hundreds of ecollars.
We got this one for our 1 year old Rottweiler - it’s been a miracle for us.
Herm Sprenger Collar Neck Tech, Stainless Steel, 24-Inch, Includes 12 Links Total https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085J9YB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JKX48DV6XMH16R0FFPY8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Pet safe Easy Walk dog harness has been amazing for us. If they try to pull, it puts them a tiny bit off balance, and they naturally correct themselves. Our guy is night and day with it, and we no longer have to yank at him. It is very different than a regular harness. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7gzfgVjkSQ https://www.amazon.ca/PetSafe-Harness-Medium-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZD3QY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2ZLZRXGSNGJ87&keywords=easywalker+dog+harness&qid=1651030062&sprefix=Easywalker%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-6
It’s not only that. Play is very powerful and gives your dog purpose and increases their self esteem. Much more powerful at changing emotions than food/treats.
Why are you trying to force the toy drive? If it's not there, you might be able to increase it a little, but they will likely never have a strong toy drive. I understand you are trying to improve your relationship with your dog, but there are likely other ways to do it your dog would enjoy.
A lotus ball might be a good option, since it's a toy which also uses the dog's food drive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MD20Z55/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_GXJX3VKNRZK9ZZ2A3QKR
I'm interested in learning more about this method you've mentioned. Would you say this book is the best resource for learning more, or did you go about educating yourself a different way? Sounds like you worked with a pro as well.
Most people use essential oils like birch or pine. It's a lot cheaper if you don't search for nosework kits specifically. My instructor used q-tips and containers like these: https://www.amazon.com/Empty-Slide-Containers-Crafts-Storage/dp/B00RNG22PU/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2IRZ9K44NR9CN
This book is good for pet dog diy training, very basic nuts and bolts descriptions. https://www.amazon.ca/COLLAR-TRAINING-Pet-Dogs-resource/dp/1723536601/ref=asc_df_1723536601/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292939055252&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16051498672616445279&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&a... facebook ecollar group, ask, ecollar technologies has a short series for recall training. By the sounds of it, you really just want a proofed recall?
I agree that this appears to be a problem with the leash.. when I was using a prong I had a double ended bolt snap as my backup; however, since it seems like the bolt snap is the problem here you may have better luck with a bull snap. I've switched to a bull snap because I had a few too many close calls with the bolt snap coming undone during a reaction, and have had no issues since switching.
FOUND IT!!! Man this was firing me crazy 😂 It’s not a connector but a 2 point control leash!!!! Here’s a link to one so you can see what it is. This two point leash connects to both and you control which you side need to use and when.
The GSD rescue I volunteered with knew a lady that made incredible leashes and I bought three. They are made from Bluewater tubular webbing, 5/8 inch wide and perfect for using the thumb lock method. Super soft, light weight and she makes different lengths. They are like these but just a simple leash, no traffic handle. If you call Your Dog Trainer I’m sure they would ship you one.
Honestly my favorite leash I've ever had is the Halti double ended leash. It definitely absorbs water but it doesn't get slippery or slimey at all, just stays damp for a long time after a really rainy walk. But I love the ability to make it shorter and I like the ease of clipping the leash around things (makes it easy to clip him to a park bench for example). I also really like that this leash doesn't have any give or spring to it, especially for a training leash when I give a correction I don't want to feel like I'm pulling on a bungee cord like some leashes haha
We ended up getting a set of stairs for my dog since the bed he likes to hang out on is high off the floor, and I was worried about his shoulders taking too many hard impacts on the floor when he jumped down.
This is the one we got, though the price has nearly doubled on that listing, so browse around before you buy; most sets I saw were <$50, and these were $43 when we bought them. I would 100% recommend this style though, it only took 10 minutes to set up (just shove the plastic pegs into the holes on each piece) and it's very sturdy and does not move around much on hardwood flooring.
You might need to consider a larger/wider size for your dog since my boy is only a 60-pound mutt, but the height is good, the carpeting on each step gives enough traction to not be slippery, and he took to them immediately with only a few minutes of training.
The Crumps mini trainers beef liver have been my FAVORITE for tiny treats!
Crumps' Naturals Dog Treat - Mini Trainers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1VAH9F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZEVW8Z6RM8JRHJ2HM7VD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is 20 ft. Soft Lines PSW20420PACIFICBLUE Floating Dog Swim Slip Leashes 0.25 in. Diameter by 20 Ft. - Pacific Bllue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PHLPJ6W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZK3Z7FZNVCRCEK6MWCRW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Highly recommend you get the quick release variation. Have had both, won't buy the standard again.
Chewy carries it at a decent price.
Also be aware that sometimes you can get a whole collar for the price of spare links.
https://www.chewy.com/herm-sprenger-ultra-plus-training-dog/dp/185329
If you haven’t already, get a snuffle mat. Great way to engage the brain while giving them some food, so you can feed him when you don’t have the time to hand feed you’re still working him. A bobble toy like this is an awesome intro to puzzle toys. Mostly so you can gauge how receptive he is to it. This is my dogs favorite!
Just looked through my order history and saw that they changed it to include shock D: which is so upsetting. The one I use does NOT have shock, only vibrate and beep. I searched and found a different one that also only does vibrate and beep.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B6FDQP7/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_glt_fabc_SQYNJBAJVVPSR38J82EQ?psc=1
E-Collar - ET-300 - 1/2 Mile Remote Waterproof Trainer Mini Educator Remote Training Collar - 100 Training Levels Plus Vibration and Sound - Includes PetsTEK Dog Training Clicker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRLQBXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A2E5P8EK55CDBTMYNYAH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have some of these to use now. I had used something similar in the past and it helped discourage surfing as long as it wasn't already a habit.
Hueter Toledo Snappy Trainer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GH2H4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
absolute top priority is socialiazation. Read this one:
and this one is more about building foundational skills for sport dogs but even if you don’t do sports you’ll be glad you read it:
Sounds like you're doing great already! You can also try practicing "place" with a bed or raised platform cot that you can move around the house in various rooms. The goal should be having your dog comfortably wait on place with distractions around, regardless of what's going on in the home (i.e.: baby playing on the floor, guests coming over, etc.).
You mentioned doing the leaving for 10 minutes or so, but that wasn't helping. A better option would be a protocol like one outlined in books like Be Right Back. https://www.amazon.com/Be-Right-Back-Overcome-Separation-ebook/dp/B081Y9XFXF
Additionally, separation anxiety is a thing that a lot of trainers do virtually. Melina Demartini-price is really the leader with separation anxiety, and she has a certification that people can get to train dogs with separation anxiety.
https://malenademartini.com/for-owners/separation-anxiety-training-programs/
Also on the website is "mission possible" which is a training protocol.
You put a little bit of food inside it, and practice obedience, then toss it as a treat. My dog doesn't play with toys either, but will with a lotus ball.
So, sadly there's nothing that really jumps out at me that is a "primer to dog training" kind of deal. But the book that comes closest that I'm aware of is "Canine Enrichment for the Real World" by Bender and Strong.
It's not just enrichment like "give your dog a kong" type of enrichment. They do a really good job of explaining really all the needs of dogs, and how to meet them which, IMO, is actually far more important than specific training and will help improve your relationship. The chapters are:
- Enrichment then and now
- Elements of enrichment
- Agency
- Physical exercise
- Safety and security
- Instinctual behaviors
- Foraging
- Social interactions
- Mental stimulation
- Calming enrichment
- Independence
- Providing the right environment
- The human element
- Work smarter, not harder
- Practical enrichment for special needs dogs
- Practical enrichment in shelters and rescues
- Putting it all together
Disclaimer: this book comes from a LIMA perspective, but IMO is one of the least preachy books I've read - they do discuss the issues, for example, of using some training equipment - but they also discuss that harnesses and things generally considered "fine" by the +R training community can also be a problem in some situations. Note: I am a LIMA trainer myself, so take of that what you will.
Dog Playpen 8/16/24/32 Panels Heavy Duty Dog Pen 40" Height x 32" Width Dog Exercise Pen Cat Fence with Doors for Large Dogs,Outdoor/Indoor,RV, Camping, Yard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D34YJVX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_02E6GGN4E08M3619FK1X
There is certainly hope! I highly suggest doing all the management type things (muzzles, gates, etc.) to decrease the times that he'll guard and the fallout if he does, but I also really suggest to pick up the book Mine! By Jean Donaldson. It's a relatively dense book, but one of the best in how to deal with resource guarding.
I'm sorry that the trainers you've contacted haven't been able to help. They should be able to work on a protocol that can decrease the guarding, but it will always be a tendency for your dog, so you will likely need to be aware of that his entire life. But that awareness can be something that is totally doable for you and your dog.
We have this mat that we use to take around town with us. We also sometimes bring a towel. Once they know the expectation for “place” they should be able to be on it as long as they can differentiate it from the surroundings, if that makes sense.
Hero Dog Large Dog Bed Mat 42 Inch Crate Pad Anti Slip Mattress Washable for Pets Sleeping (Blue L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N4GCQB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1F29M1AHF67F1MYNWQQG
Have a special treat for him that he gets only when he goes into his crate. My dog goes gaga for these and he ONLY gets them when he goes into his crate and I shut the door. Of course, it didn't fully crate train him on its own, but it makes it a lot easier to get him to go into his crate! I would find a treat your dog really loves and then save them for crate training.
Hmm seems like he has alot of energy and hard time to control his excitement. Sometimes dogs when they get excited they have the urge to nip or bite. They don't mean to hurt you, its just how they kind of of express themselves in a way.
My dog had a similar problem and so I bought him this tug of war toy that he can play by himself. You can put a treat inside and my dog can spend a LONG time playing. By the time he's done, he doesn't nip as much if not at all. I recommend you give it a try! I'll send the link below here from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XYJ3QP7
These are the way to go for perfect fit Sparky Pet Co 3/4" Waterproof E -Collar Bungee Easy Fit Surefit Replacement Receiver Electronic Training Strap, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079VW5STY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M5NXM992MBWF7C28ZR9M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah you can swap it out later. I started using it with just the standard collar and contact points but because I’m using it so much, I got the other stuff since I noticed that the defacto equipment was causing him discomfort. I bought this collar strap for my mini educator and I like it a lot. These are the comfort pads. I bought the long one without wings since I’m able to make good contact with just the 3/4” probes that come in the box. You can choose between short or long depending on your dog’s coat type.
getting a snuggle toy for my pup turned the corner on crate training 100%. It allowed us to introduce crate games and enforced naps. But honestly, at 9 weeks I was still doing the open door crate inside an X pen thing. but starting at 10 weeks I was able to close the door on the crate. we did a lot of open crate/ pen acclimation first. the pen was only big enough for food/ water/ and pee pad (we took away pee pad starting 10th week).
As stated by others e collar on aggression is not the answer. Sometimes it can actually increase the aggression. I would recommend this spray. Pair it with a "safety word" works really well to snap them out of it, eventually you'll just have to use the word.
Thanks! So would you recommend the mini educator solely because of the two stim levels? I've heard good things about this one, but at the moment I'm pretty happy with mine. Here's the link: I mean it has three modes and is pretty easy to click up or down if need be. I really like the vibration mode because my girl can also be randomly aggressive towards her friends/dogs at the park. It's like she gets overstimulated. But I can use the vibration and call her over to me and it works like a gem. I prefer that over the shock whenever possible if I see she's responding to it!
That's amazing you adopted a dog from Thailand. I lived in Chiang Mai for a while and considered bringing home one of the pups from the streets (there are so many). That's a long journey home for a dog! That's really interesting that your dog seems to be on a different level to these 'domestic house dogs' haha. Have you heard of the reactive dog group? It sounds like she is having a hard time controlling her emotions. Very similar to my girl- I'm pretty sure she lived on the streets for a time, and then was in a small room for nearly a year. So socialization took some time. She's improved so so much but still gets overwhelmed from time to time and that can seem aggressive. I usually just take her away from the stimulus until she calms down, and then she's fine. What do you do?
While I haven’t tried it, this model looks comparable to others I have used. Having it be waterproof is super helpful, at least for me that had a slobbery/waterbowl tipping dog:
SportDOG Brand NoBark Rechargeable Bark Control Collar - Programmable, Waterproof Bark Collar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L26LZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_IkZWFbSQHQ9XW
The other commentator mentioned Dogtra, and that is a very good, well known brand that I expect would also be a good choice.
They should but since i'm not in Canada I can't say for sure. I own a prong from Petco and i've had it slip off multiple times before so I recommend not buying from Petco.
Here's a Herm Sprenger on Amazon Canada this is the type people recommend (with the little flat piece in the middle)
My dog was horrible to walk on a leash until we bought a slip leash that was recommended by our trainer. Here's the one we got. The thing that really made this work is the change in direction thing. If she pulls on the leash, she gets a light correction and we walk in the opposite direction. Pulling gets her farther from where she wants to go. In the beginning, we changed direction like every 10 feet. To use a slip leash correctly, make sure the loop makes the letter "P" (when facing your dog) when you put the leash on if you're going to keep her on your left side. Otherwise, the leash should make a backwards "P".
We also recently started using an e-collar. Now, I can just give her a little vibration when she pulls on the leash and she immediately moves back alongside me in a perfect heel position.
I don't like the idea of depriving your high-energy dog of long walks. If there are too many distractions, find a less busy place to walk. Less exercise seems like a prescription for more disobedience.
So after hearing what people had to say here, I ended up going with this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VI186S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mvevFbSJ24G66
Here's pictures of the item I got: Curogan herm Sprenger 2.3mm 18in https://imgur.com/gallery/yCD6To2
I'm pretty happy with it! The build is great quality, the links have rounded tips, and all the herm Sprenger engraving is on it as well. Came in very quickly by mail, I do recommend it for sure!
Go with a scooter, an electric one if you're feeling lazy.
I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CS7CK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lNfjFb3YPKCVQ Its a little pricey, but well made and the low attachment point keeps them from yanking you over. It works fantastic on both of my dogs. My Cane Corso often starts out pulling me on the bike and I have to use a little brake to slow her down.
https://www.amazon.com/Dogtra-1900S-Training-Collar-System/dp/B014EV636K
In your original post, the description for the collar you posted clearly states that it has 99 shock levels
There is no shock with the dogtra.
Ugh, we tried a martingale without a buckle and it was the worst! (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YICDOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DTN3BbXR8ZJCK)[This] one has held up really well and was pretty inexpensive. I don't think we could have taught Wendy without it because she could so easily slip out of any flat collar and we had to search forever to find a harness that fit her.
I'm no dog trainer by any means (Wendy is my first dog and the farthest I've taken her is passing her cgc test), but I've found that the fastest and least painful way for her to learn is by being really clear on what I want her to do when in a specific situation or when I give a specific command. So when we walk, I generally let her sniff where she wants as long as she's not pulling me. If I notice she's going too fast and will hit the end of her leash, I try calling her to me. If she comes, treat and continue walking. That's what I try to focus on. The negative marker word/stopping is a worst-case scenario that I try to avoid. So walks with her have actually really strengthened her recall as well as her LLW. I also have a command for her to be in a loose/informal heel if I need her to walk by something distracting or I'm in a hurry and need her to keep up with me.
Of course, the downside to that method is that the human has to be really aware and vigilant about where the dog is in relation to them all the time. I'm totally accustomed to having my attention on Wendy all the time because of her leash reactivity (I taught her an auto-sit when we see dogs coming, which took quite a while lol), but I know it can be hard for some people if they listen to music/podcasts/audiobooks on walks.
Good luck whatever you choose to do! :)
It also depends on the environment. If you're in a very low distraction environment the setting will be much lower than if youre training in a high distraction environment. If you plan on training with an e collar, I would HIGHLY recommend Larry Krohn's book.
Everything you need to know about E Collar Training https://www.amazon.com/dp/1521126550/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jPOqAbTYB2V4G
I also recommend Koehler's methods
The Koehler Method of Dog Training: Certified Techniques by Movieland's Most Experienced Dog Trainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/0876056575/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_G6S18aT6j8xe
this is the collar I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Herm-Sprenger-German-Prong-Collar/dp/B0006L2N2G/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1380138142&sr=8-8&keywords=herm+sprenger+prong+collar
Why not try a prong collar first?
this is the one I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Herm-Sprenger-German-Prong-Collar/dp/B0006L2N2G/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1380138142&sr=8-8&keywords=herm+sprenger+prong+collar
I also recommend Koehler's methods
The Koehler Method of Dog Training: Certified Techniques by Movieland's Most Experienced Dog Trainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/0876056575/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_G6S18aT6j8xe
I was re-reading Culture Clash recently and very early in the book she covers how to spark interest in retrieving, shape it and follow through. In later chapters she delves even deeper. I think it's worth a read!
I know this may seem counter-intuitive but don't run her before training. In fact, if she is amped up and ready to go, the training will be more effective. If you think about it, she knows how to calm herself down in most situations but if seeing another dog gets her excited to, let's say, over 9,000, then she never has learned to self-regulate above that threshold.
Another thing you can try that may work better than an e-collar or a pinch is a Gentle Leader or a Halti. These may work better it give you control of where her head goes. She seems to ignore any pressure on her neck at this point.
Lastly, on thing has worked for me in the past to get dogs to focus is left or right-hand circles. Don't look at anything except her and find out what she does the moment before she starts erupting/whining/flailing. Do her hears face forward? Does she stamp her feet slightly? Right when you see that cue (or right when she starts erupting if you haven't figured it out yet), use your legs (not your hands or the leash!) to cut her off and walk in a circle. You may need a few repetitions before she looks at you but the moment she looks up at you, mark and reward like crazy for eye contact. Any time she sees a dog and gives you contact you are teaching her to look to you for guidance. Whether you do a left or right hand circle is dependent only on where she is in relation to you so you can cut her off.