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I also have an R3 that sits most days. Use a battery tender. She'll be fresh and ready to start every time!
Clicking means the battery is dead again. Just at idle the car doesn’t charge the battery much. If you can buy a battery tender and charge the battery that way. Or go for a drive once a week for 30 minutes. But if you’re not using the car regularly it’s best to get a tender. Amazon has one I like its $40. Cones with a hardwire kit you can install in a few minutes. The one I use is this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5KEEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It’s a $10-$20 part on Amazon.
GooDeal VSV EGR Vacuum Switch Purge Valve Solenoid for Mazda 626 Protege K5T49090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013HY0QBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9jZECbEG5NVC1
That said, it’s only a problem if you have to pass emissions testing.
I had the same issue. The clutch pedal was broke and master cylinder was shot. Got a both on Amazon. Judging by the age of you car it is possible it is just the master cylinder. I got the rebuid kit and it was pretty straight forward. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-CMK116394-Clutch-Master-Cylinder/dp/B001PYG6PS?keywords=rx8+clutch+master&qid=1536430333&sr=8-5&ref=mp_s_a_1_5
Im not 100% sure the differences for the invidia but when i did my turboxs exhaust i used longer hangers with multiple holes. You have to use then because of the difference in the way it sits, since its originally for series 1. The ones i used for my series 2 look like this exhaust hanger
Hope this helps
I don't remember where I got the Konis, but the springs are on Amazon for about $150.
Tein SKM58-BUB00 High.Tech Lowering Spring for Mazda RX-8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AURVZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fmk2zb97QGMW0
Did you completely destroy the flywheel? With typical wear, it should be able to be resurfaced without issue.
As for clutches, go with the OEM or Exedy kit (same thing, basically). I got mine from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B59OUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just went through this 3 months ago when the throwout bearing took a dump.
https://www.amazon.com/Autobahn88-Radiator-Silicone-2003-2012-without/dp/B01427HJBY
I have the above kit, and it’s good quality. Paid half of what you listed. You’ll end up with one extra hose for a slightly different engine configuration (depends on the year of your RX-8). As someone previously mentioned, grab a few extra hose clamps though in case you lose one or it doesn’t fit like you want it to.
I have had this one on my wish list for some time. Havent ordered it, but it has good reviews from other RX8 owners. The advantageof the S2 starter is the cranking RPM, which most of the non-OEM ones also have.
The same thing just happened to me. Found them on Amazon. Crazy expensive for what they are though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S729U5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, here's a couple amazon links. https://www.amazon.com.au/wiiyii-Display-Smart-Gauge-Works/dp/B0957S3F3H/ref=m_pd_aw_sbs_sccl_1/355-4096854-9915036?pd_rd_w=MGD68&content-id=amzn1.sym.111ab27b-a8b4-41ff-bed1-05defb6f01e7&pf_rd_p=111ab27b-a8b4-41ff-bed1-05defb6f01e7&pf... Is the one I have. It's not real time, but its cheap and does the job. Least it's better than the stock gauges lmao
https://www.amazon.com.au/Lufi-Revolution-Multi-Data-Customizable-Accurate/dp/B089VKS44X/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?crid=3EK4KOHJNV0DV&keywords=obd2+hud&qid=1670932527&sprefix=obd2+hu%2Caps%2C376&sr=8-14 my mate has this one i believe, runs in real time too. Pretty good. Thinking about changing mine out for this sometime.
I bought this one 9 months ago for $130. Unfortunately it's currently listed for $174, but I'd say it's still worth it. Hugely improved starting for me. Old starter would crank for 2-3 seconds and with the upgrade it's less than a second. I'm actually shocked how quickly it fires up.
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Yomikoo-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B0757KK3WW I just recently bout this one from amazon and installed it in my 08 rx8. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=J-mrSMS6ybo I found it though the description of this video and the guy shows all the steps of installing it
I do see this sensor on amazon though I'm quite a bit suspicious as it doesn't say downstream or upstream and it's rather cheap... https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13595-Oxygen-Sensor-Fitment/dp/B000BZG710?th=1
but it says bosch and compatible with 06 rx8
I think I might look into sites that sell genuine parts I'm not sure of much other than rock auto (haven't checked there)
I found something similar, there may be some fitment issue.
Pricey option - https://pimpmyev.com/products/genuine-carbon-fiber-air-knife-eyebrow-fog-light-trim-covers-for-model-3-gloss
Same model, much cheaper. Much more cost efficient to try. - https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Carbon-Fiber-Eyebrow-Eyelids/dp/B08JJ4W1YR
If you change the clutch master and/or slave cylinders, I found this speed bleeder was helpful for 1 person bleeding. It's a Dorman 12708 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5I1UO).
If you haven't bled hydraulics before, get a friend to help you. Preferably a small friend (the bleeder nipple is in a tight location).
There is a mechanical adjustment that needs to be done to the pedal too. Make sure the pedal play is correct before you start bleeding.
I also found using a speed bleeder nipple was helpful for 1 person bleeding. It's a Dorman 12708 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5I1UO).
And be patient. It can take a lot of attempts.
Bought this off Amazon and it is the right thread (M20) and puts my license plate where I want it on the front of the car, but holy hell is it too long. Any suggestions on brands that achieve the same goals while being the proper length?
This is an iJDM Toy License Plate relocation kit btw - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KB0SVT0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I used this one from amazon for like 5 years
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Aluminum-Engine-Relocation-Stainless/dp/B06ZYV1W6D
Identical to the RR one, just a different color and the elbows are a little worse (it doesn't matter too much tbh). You'd have to cut your own hoses too. It will relocate the filter for you, but it still won't get you that post filter pressure unfortunately.
Moonlinks Magnetic Oil Drain Plug... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MF3TSRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is what i use. Idk why anyone would spend much more on a oil drain that does not make it go faster and you can't see it most 99% of the time...
Yatour Digital Music CD Changer Compatible with Bluetooth Function Car Adapter Hands Fress Call Adapter USB charging For Mazda 2 3 5 6 MX-5 RX-8 MPV etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014QZHR28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M7VB91P8RQS8NFBBQ596
^^Highly recommend, very easy install and cheaper and get to keep factory look.
Alright thx I found these Metra double din kit
You’re going to need to add a resistor. I had the same thing happen. Here is a link to the exact ones I used. I ran one in parallel the third brake light IIRC
These are useful:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YV94T9E?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
You put them in the relay spot for whatever and then use the switch to control the power side of the relay. ie- use them to verify each of the fans without the engine running.
In your video it seems like the relay is kicking in but it's hard to hear the fan. It might be easier to hear with the hood open.
In my experience the engine gets to about 208f and the dash gauge stops there. The fan doesn't make the temperature drop.
I tried getting some individuals at the hardware store but none of them fit very well, so I did end up just getting the 80 piece assortment on Amazon. They've be useful for other things like screw posts too from where the airbox used to mount, and other things around the house.
Nice, Pettit builds good engines from everything I've heard.
Also, FYI there's a dirt-cheap Greddy turbo kit for sale here (no it's not mine, I'm supercharged): https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/628791914349779/
So not all dongles are compatible with the iPhone and the TrackAddict app. My OBD reader was VEEPEAK OBDCheck BLE OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner Car OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool for iOS and Android Check Engine Light Code Reader Supports Torque, OBD Fusion App https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_B3GCGTM3ATB5VGTFJTA9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These last ok like the Spyder brand S2 style tail lights for S1s that I have on my 2004. The fit was perfect for me. The only issue I ran into is because I also have an LED 3rd brake light. If I had the OEM 3rd brake light, it wouldn’t have been a problem; but the LED 3rd brake light drops the total resistance enough that the PCM freaks out. Plumbing in one resister solves the issue; but put the resister where it won’t touch anything but metal as it will get hot. I used TUINCYN 2pcs 50W 8 ohm 7443... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JNHMP3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share but anything similar will do. Note: they come in pairs; but only use one if you have an LED 3rd brake light. If you have an incandescent bulb in the OEM 3rd brake light, you can skip that entirely.
THANK YOU to everyone for the help. I ended up buying a new ballast on Amazon for $27.99 (link below) and with some minor exterior modification it fit perfectly. The only things we had to do was cut off some metal that was just too large. In the end it works nicely and hopefully tomorrow I will be able to register it.
I have this one right now, but it doesn’t fit my new phone with the case on very well.
UGREEN Car Phone Mount CD Slot Holder Gravity Car Cell Phone Stand Clamp Adjustable Compatible for iPhone 13 12 11 Pro Max SE XR XS X 8 7 6 Plus 6S Sa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLK1SFB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gwYZUWFJNIKBl
I recommend one more like this, as it’s a little more universal.
Anker CD Slot Mount Car Mount Phone Holder for iPhone, iPod, Samsung, LG, Nexus, HTC, Motorola, Sony and Other Smartphones and MP3 Players (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UN7ZL0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_G7PkQsNUcyGtS
Anker and Ugreen are both good brands.
Here’s a Bluetooth adapter that hides inside the dash and connects to the multidisk cd aux in the back of the stereo. I have it on my ‘04 and it’s pretty seamless. I mounted the mic on the dash next to the steering column and call quality has been pretty solid on both ends.
Bluetooth Car Kit, Car Stereo MP3 USB AUX 3.5mm Wireless Hands-Free Bluetooth Adapter for Mazda 3 6 CX7 MPV MX-5 M3 RX8 Tribute https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0757KK3WW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T5BT7BFBFC84JPFE3P6Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've been eyeing these myself. It comes with two but hey it's only $12 US & just in case one breaks you got a spare 😁 Universal Tail Light
the CEL is probably a code P0420. very normal after a decat. if you want to get a handle on it - get something like these:
https://www.amazon.com/BANIGIPA-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B07T8LF7KP/
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree
you can then clear the code/CEL each time it comes up - so if any other reasons for a CEL happens you can still spot those. the P0420 will likely keep coming back every few weeks/months but only takes 30 secs to clear each time.
Stock sounds good after decat. If you want to get fancy you can get the greddy system or racing beat, but the have zero gains. They just look pretty. I did put a cheap header set I got off Amazon and they sounds great. Link below to the one I bought.
Manzo USA Mazda RX-8 3-1 Stainless Steel Exhaust Header https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N4C84Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_72VNEHTBKHX64QPZNC4M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
3mm apex seals are thicker to better resist being damaged by detonation in high boost applications. Get a copy of Street Rotary by Mark Warner. Incredibly detailed and well written book about the technical details of building rotaries.
Street Rotary HP1549: How to Build Maximum Horsepower & Reliability into Mazda's 12a, 13b & Renesis Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/1557885494/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JRD4DAMXW9TCT6RBSQA1
I went with the British Tan, personally fond of that color in the older RX7.
I bought this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LBK6Y1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_JW787XN22P4VERBDSZB7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's an fm modulator and works great plus gives me hands free for phone. Every now and then I get engine whine (you can't hear when music is playing) but reseating the adapter fixes it.
Honestly, I don't care for the Bose speakers. Their range is terrible. My generic run off the mill factory setup in my Ford escape sounds million times better.
The ignition coils can be cheaper than that coils I used these on my 2010 sport and haven't had a problem with them yet.
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The catalytic converter you could sell online for a good bit of money (seen some go for 1400) and use that to buy a replacement midpipe that would fix that code.
Gotcha, I was just saying cuz I didn’t recognize it so I googled it first and came up with this... Hasbro Transformers Alternators - Mazda RX-8 (Shock Blast) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PGJNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FR6VXSRVGWE7M97EP9HW
Brock Replacement Pair Set Front Power Window Lift Regulator Motors Compatible with 06-17 CX-7 CX-9 RX-8 5 6 GJ6A-59-58XF G22C-58-58XF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNKYTQ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HZ6J40XX1P66XSYSQ2H4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If I remember correctly my window did not fall much. But these were awesome. Just three screws and one plug.
You would probably want to use an ignition switched fuse (ie one that turns off when you remove the key).
Any good fuse tap will maintain the current fuse and add a new circuit with a new fuse, so as long as its ignition switched you should be good to go.
Something like this (not saying to get this one, this is just the first result on amazon)
Man they are a little cheaper now. People will probably give me shit because they are not some fancy coils but I really don't care. https://www.amazon.com/Herko-Ignition-Mazda-1308CC-2004-2011/dp/B01MPVMDUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=herko+Rx8+coils&qid=1606010335&sr=8-2
OPP ULITE Switchback Led Strip Light Amber Turn Signal White DRL 24 Inch Flexible Headlight Stirp Tube Lights (White Amber WYDT-60) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085LZRYM5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-G1NFbP86EBPC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure because I was thinking of just not putting anything on my grill.. do you think this would fit an rx8? https://www.amazon.ca/Zone-Tech-Bumper-License-Relocator/dp/B072BXMM2T/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=plate+relocator&qid=1599583568&sr=8-8
Yeah, it was a kit I got off Amazon lol
You splice the 3 wires into the wiring in the car. Red goes to DRL positive, Yellow goes to turning signal positive, and black goes to ground (I wired it to a bolt that holds the headlight on). The strip itself you need to take the endcaps off the silicone, then put it on the bumper, not the headlights. It'll be really snug, I had to use a credit card to make sure it fit under the headlights when I was putting it back on. Overall I'm pleased with how it came out
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Oh, and here's what I used. These are the exact ones I ordered. Get longer ones if you want them to come up the bumper https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KK3WSXP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had a similar issue with mine about 6 months ago. No matter how many times I cleaned the connectors, I would get the same thing and eventually my power steering failed. I ended up replacing both power steering connectors under the air box with aftermarket ones that I found on Amazon. I soldered on a new little 3-pin connector and I got a "battery quick disconnect" for the large connector. It looks a little funny since they're not OEM but my power steering has worked perfectly since. Make sure you wrap them in tape after you finish and reroute the coolant overflow hose. Here are the ones I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9HTJYF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QI6S68S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This Bluetooth is what I have in my car
And this is how to install
there are metra kits on amazon for like $150
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https://www.amazon.com/Metra-95-7510-Installation-2004-2008-Vehicles/dp/B001N7Q1R0
Sounds like you’re going to need a pair of these at this rate! Slow down buddy, get to know the car.
Seriously, practice in parking lots and look into a stunt driving class or the like.
It’s behind the glove box, which drops out to give you access. It’s super easy. YouTube video shows how here: https://youtu.be/9VXpG4Cslr0
Got the new filters on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010ECUL2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_bd6HAbSM03AB4
Avoid stuff that says TCW-3. JASO-FD is a good place to start.
I bought several of these bottles and fill them up to keep in my trunk. Pour one in with each fill-up. http://www.specialtybottle.com/aluminum-bottles/brushed/8oz-alum8
I've been using Idemitsu but I'll be switching to this after I finish the last of it. Lucas Oil 10115 Semi-Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil - 1 Gallon Jug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKTWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iq-Fzb2EFVB5K
I believe that fuse in particular is a 30A pink female maxi (FMX) fuse. Here's one on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-FMX-30-Female-Maxi/dp/B000BXMEWS
Pretty much any auto shop should have it too.
However, I read in a couple spots that the ACC fuse being blown prevents your car from starting too.. I'm not sure how true that is, but this is the only fuse I could find that shares all the components that aren't working. I guess the quick check is to just pull that fuse and see if it starts up. If it won't start up after pulling that fuse, that means that it does indeed run the ignition, and that fuse isn't the problem. :(
I run the Penziol Simi synthetic TCW3 that comes in the gallon jug its about $15 per jug and available at a number of auto-parts stores and amazon; if i track the car i use Amsoil Saber. I also add an ethanol treatment, this helps a lot more than you would expect. Lucas or Starbrite work the best. I mix the two together in the jug for convenience, never had an issue. Then I and add about 10 OZ of the concoction every fill up 12OZ for track days. My OMP is disabled just FYI. Running 2cycle is better for your cat as well, as it has less Zinc which fouls catalytic converters, and its ment to be burnt.
One more note when you heavily premix your crankcase oil level will rise over time. not all the oil is burnt and it eventually works its way into the crankcase oil. I am usually .74 quarts above where it was when i changes the oil after a 4k drive cycle.
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-RE7C-L-Laser-Iridium-Spark/dp/B000GZEU64/
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-RE9B-T-Laser-Iridium-Spark/dp/B000AUP2VW
Much better price, and they are legit, I bought some earlier this year. And I also recommend the BHR coils.
Get this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
Works perfectly with Torque and even supports faster polling. No battery drain issues and really no issues getting in the way of driving either.
I bought the headlight restoration kit from 3M and it took about an hour and they look pretty much brand new now.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VB8JTQ/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Head to a shop and have a mechanic hook up a scanner to it and find out what diagnostic code is causing the CEL to come on.
Or you could buy an OBD2 Bluetooth adapter and use an app like Torque so you can check the codes from your phone.