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Just tell yourself it's black grout. You could actually use a grout refresher. It's a latex type finishing you paint on.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NT0OJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_WFK73CZ194TFJ30HPTTE
If the tiles are in good condition, they represent a low exposure risk to cover with a new flooring layer. Gently lift the carpet with a P100 filter, half mask respirator on and look below to see if any of the tiles are cracked or damaged. If the condition is good pull up the carpet and continue your inspection. If you see any broken pieces of tile, stop the inspection and regroup.
Typically VAT will last many decades and I suspect you will be able to lift the carpet and find tiles in fairly good condition. The only issue is the carpet tack strips that represent a small exposure risk when pulling them out to level the flooring surface. Again use a respirator for this and also mist/spray water while pulling up the strips.
Once the surface is fairly level, you can add any leveling agent you wish or if you have some broken pieces, using spray glue will lock down asbestos fibres. If you are looking for more tips on inspection and removal of small quantities of non-friable asbestos, please read my ebook it's free for Amazon Kindle Unlimited members or a low cost educational guide complete with infographics for non-members.
https://www.amazon.com/Asbestos-Exposed-definitive-identification-including/dp/B08H566HPS
I usually let it set overnight and run beads the next day. Cut your tube tips straight, and push the tube like a chisel not pull like a tube of toothpaste. It will force the sealant into the joint instead of just laying on top. If you go slow and steady and keep the silicone from running over the edge of the plastic tube against the tile, you can use an aerosol window cleaner (I prefer Sprayway if you can find it. ) and lightly spritz the joint you just ran, then run your finger over it. Ill usually do one straight horizontal or half a vertical seam at a time. Wipe on a clean rag everytime you lift your hand from the joint or the silicone builds up too much on your finger. This trick does not work on acrylic latex caulking. Only silicone. Sometimes I'll tape off the ceiling or any painted surface that gets caulking so the painters have a nice edge to run a brush on.
I think thats terrazzo. And that white stripe looks like a scratch. You can "hide" it with this product https://www.amazon.com/Tenax-Enhancing-Granite-Sealer-Marble/dp/B0195UZZM8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=ager+color+enhancing+stone+sealer&qid=1597709539&sprefix=ager+&sr=8-4
RUBI TOOLS Rubimix 9 Mixer with Chuck and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRJAM5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2911179DHCAWP4348S03?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Got this a year ago, never going back to a drill
i use an angle grinder with a thin blade.
just use glasses. if you are patient and don't plunge the blade in, you can hold a sponge with your other hand.
There is a "200T" blade that is sometimes referred to as "cuts lightweight aluminum", but that's not a true "non-ferrous" blade.
This is what you want for a "non-ferrous blade". The carbide tips make all the difference in the world. That first blade is good for cutting aluminum siding, etc. But it doesn't do a nice job on Schluter.
Get one of these. Here's an installation video.
I'm not sure if the "Keranet" product is sold where I live (US) or if it's just labeled differently. The closest thing I can find is Mapei Acidic Tile and Grout Cleaner. All the sites that sell the "Keranet" product seem to be outside the US. I assume that's the same thing, right? Any "acid" cleaner should do?
Sorry for the late reply. It’s jut a straight edge. Used to “screed” off excesss material between 2 points. If you go to a tile store the sell them in sets of various lengths. https://www.amazon.com/Screed-Set-L-Shaped-Aluminum-PK5/dp/B01LZ6E7V3
Each product has their own spec sheet that lists how thick the film needs to be (usually in mils, not to be confused with millimeters) that you need to meet, at least for warranty purposes.
You can use a tool like this to measure how thick your film is: https://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-Thickness-notched-Paints/dp/B07S7F1KMW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mil+thickness+gauge&qid=1660763152&sr=8-3
This was the exact kind shown in pictures.
Was my first time using it but it's super easy.
From the description "Fitted for a standard 4" x 10" air vent opening. The integrated vent cover can use the surface material to create a seamless cover."
https://youtu.be/_t4OoGSxBrY. (video showing how to use in better detail)
No prob! Good Luck with the project! As an aside, I'd also suggest investing in some sort of leveling system. I use one similar to Ridgid LevelMax. They're super easy to use and give you a bit of fine adjustment. It also makes it so you don't have to pull up a tile that you've already set to put more thinset under it if you need to level it better. It seriously took 20% off the install time when I started using them. The Ridgid ones are fairly inexpensive and can even act as tile spacers if you like thin grout lines.
I did buy a leveling system from amazon that has plastics clips and wedges https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYS9JLW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1 , I got the 1/8" so that I can use them as spacers too, I picked up 900 wedges and 2700 spacers per their recommendation that 100 clips covers 25 sq/ft .... with these it was cheap enough to buy more than I think I'd need, hopefully they work as well as the type you linked to
I like how on the Hardie backer sponsored YouTube videos they have this buff 23 year old. 165 lbs of fighting muscle guy show you how easy it is to snap them there boards. By far the easiest tool are the Pac tool shears. pac tool
I went with this and it worked out great. 3 years later and it’s still nice. You can throw a bead of clear silicone to make sure it stays, but it didn’t have to
Use a bit like this if tile is already on wall. Much easier. Just touch it a bit and get a nice round clean cut.
Roto Zip (2 Pack) XB-FTC1 Floor Tile and Countertop XBIT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8WQDHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NDZP83F7X76BMRCJ5S4T
There are plenty of tile ready options like this out there
Then it’s just tile and mortar…curb ends up being about 3” thick by 4” high. The material itself is already waterproof and tile ready.
Doing lean curbs is 100% doable, but I’d have a conversation up front about material costs and what a thinner curb means to the end user before proceeding.
It sounds like the setter in this scenario said ‘yes’ and then forgot that’s what the homeowner wanted…if I agreed to do a 4” or less curb and then some sort of seam revealed itself that kept me from doing it, I’d call the customer on FaceTime to walk them thru and decide what they want to do…I wouldn’t just install something they weren’t expecting and ask for forgiveness after.
> lay flat marshalltown
Reminds of this weird AF Rubi trowel. Methinks its a gimmick though, no?
Unfortunately, the lay-flat marshalltown is a carbon-steel trowel only.
LTP Ferrex Rust Remover & Stone Cleaner- removes Rust outbreaks, Rust discolouration & Cement Mortar Stains from Ferrous Hard Stones (1L) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08DYGMVG1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZRSES9J8SJM2HBPMWW4S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yes, that corner: long story, the math worked out with no spacers, but when I decided to go with 1/8", I should have re-thought that left wall, including how the left edge would need to be. It was late late at night when I finished in the corner : ( I found a good fix for it though:
Thanks, I will do that next time. Yeah, I'm sad about that corner. I have a fix though:
What about a stainless niche. If it fits in the hole that could be a quick fix
https://www.amazon.ca/Brand-ABN2412-BSS-Shower-Brushed-Stainless/dp/B07D38RB8B
(There is nicer models its just for a exemple)
I'd go over it with this: Schluter Kerdi 108 Sq Ft Waterproofing Membrane https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003C6EQPE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_EPSGYVNBRS2GMGHWBXHM And, yes, an experienced tile guy should know how to make a wall flat, if not plumb.
That's correct, good eye.
It's this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GBOZ3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
u/ihaveathingforyou u/Novella87 u/warmhandluke u/Obiwantoblowme
Tile Floor Repair Kit Stone Repair Kit with 8 Block Wax for Cracked Stone, Crack Chip Ceramic Floor - Tile Gap Filler & Repair Tile Paint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HS9J68K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YPSCPN3P6AXEC4AG0N4R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not a dremel from my experience. But I use a diamond blade from Amazon and it’s the shit. Just make sure to put a little water when making the cuts.
4.5Inch Super Thin Diamond Tile Blade for Cutting Porcelain Tiles Marbles… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NX2ZGP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_JK6FX4PBGCN5CTZDAGJ5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It was good quality marble, so it cut really nice. I didn't use anything too fancy, something like this...
4 in Super Thin Dry Wet Diamond Porcelain Saw Blades Ceramic Cutting Disc Wheels for Cutting Tile Porcelain Granite Marbles(91-5PCS)… https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B082HJ6M5S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_F7RVF2PH4TMW538R2DGS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So the different chalk colors tie to different permanence. Blue comes off easy, but if I recall red is more permanent.
Or try this??
Bosch Professional Tile and Square Layout Laser GTL3 , Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OHDSMO/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_PQ41Q5DBNP6HJZF0NX3A
I’ve tiled my entire house with this thing, easily saved over 10k by not hiring someone else to do it all…..looking back I’d probably should have purchased something nicer, but if you are doing small jobs here and there, you can’t go wrong with it
https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-3540-02-7-Inch-Wet-Tile/dp/B003HIWR08
It's called the Barwalt tile shack and you can get it at Amazon of course here with free shipping or if you don't want to support Amazon just Google it. There's a bunch of places that sell it and they are all about the same price.
Kerdi corner pieces add quite a bit of thickness. Your flat wall suddenly juts out as it enters the pan. Same on a curb. You have to float out the entire curb to make things flat again.
Not sure how others handle this.
They make a super thin membrane that is used with liquid waterproofing membranes. I’m guessing you could avoid the kerdi corner buildup, using this in conjunction with kerdi pan, curbs and niches. I haven’t tried this yet.
USG DUROCK Brand Liquid Waterproofing Membrane 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076YF45P3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8YNTV546ZJF9AVJTE527
Yea, I agree. I think it does look better to replace everything but in turn you're talking probably about a $3,000 difference. And a good set of quarter round shears. Makes all the difference in the world. I'm not cutting quarter round on a chopsaw anymore. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QTC6S1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_EAWA5MBCV3XE3B7V155T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I remember the day Tom posted that job. (He owns habelt construction out of Oregon.
His detail on that job is nuts. Honestly most tile setters in the field can not make it look good, especially with how long it takes.
The fact you are doing it with the tile set already, is pretty bonkers, so kudos there! Time...lots of time.
The only other tool I could recommend is a grinder 'finger' bit such as this. I don't personally care for the brand, but it's more cost effective for something like this, vs purchasing higher quality for longevity and multiple jobs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087Q4SJV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_WCN7FbZY42MMZ