Power Golf and Bomberman '94 are both available for $2.49. At least, they are here in the US. Can't speak for international availability. There's far more PCE games on the Windows Store in Japan, but we at least got these two?
I've tested them on Win 10 and they work great. Haven't tried in Win 8, so I can't speak to that. They don't appear to be available for Xbox One, but they may support Windows Phone. At least, I hope they do, since they have giant obtrusive touchscreen controls (which can be turned off).
A couple of comments:
CoreGrafx Mini also available in Amazon IT: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07SV7H25L
Amazon JP also ship PC Engine internationally (I've just put an order for one to be shipped to Spain).
You can only order the minis in Amazon JP if you are Prime (you also qualifies with the one-month free try, just remember to deactivate the automatic renewal).
The prices in Europe are simply ABSURD. 100 pounds / 110 euros plus shipping; I'm paying 120 euros (according to today's exchange rates), including express delivery and customs, and I'm getting the PC Engine, the prettiest of them all...
It's no secret that the Turbo Express gets quite heavy and uncomfortable after some time with 6 AA's (this goes for the GameGear and Nomad AA battery pack too). For some time, I have been considering getting a rechargeable battery mod done, but that would require cutting the plastic battery rails in the battery compartment and not to mention about $100 + shipping from me to the modder and back. I don't particularly like cutting the plastic in older consoles even though I did have the LCDDRV RGB mod done, but I felt it was a MASSIVE enough improvement that it was worth it-- reading text on a stock Turbo Express screen is just as painful as looking into the sun. Anyways, I came across these AAA to AA lightweight plastic adapters and thought I'd give them a go. Man, is the Express so much lighter and fun to play with. My next step is to pair these bad boys with some rechargeable AAA Eneloop Pro's and then I think my quest to get the most juice and weight reduction will be over.
Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076LZ59CC/
You can definitely do that, I recommend using a USB connector that's mounted to a breakout board (like this) as it is much easier to mount. I like the barrel jack method as it is cleaner, but one thing to be aware of is if other people use your consoles you have to make sure they know not to plug in an original adapter, as that would probably kill the console.
I found this which is 9V 1A with a 6.3mm x 3.0mm barrel which I am assuming I can put on the supergrafx and then use the 9V 1A 5.5mm x 2.1 barrel to power it up
Yeah... that was the plan originally. I don't want to admit this but I accidentally ripped off some traces from the original controller PCB and replacements are too expensive so I opted for one of these instead: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075Q5YMHM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Apparently not many USB controllers are compatible with the Mini.
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these are the new manufacturer of these discs. Thats what I used
Back in the day, I had a couple of these and they were great, especially cuz we played a lot of SFII.
Currently reading this: https://www.amazon.com/Media-Snatcher-ENGINE-Platform-Studies-ebook/dp/B08BT2M6YF/ I forget where I heard about it.
I hope so, mine is on the way to me. It's over 300 pages and from what I have seen, it looks pretty cool. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/2380170223/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use 8bitdo sn30 wireless controllers. They have the most features and are comfortable. I had no trouble setting up cd games. You need the proper system card rom to get them running. https://retropie.org.uk/docs/PC-Engine/
Often I will end up with half a page full of graphite streaks till the membrane pads have lost the glazed/glossy appearance and gone back to dull.
Never worn through the conductive layer, but Graphit 33 lacquer is what I would apply if it were ever the case.
I remember playing this at the arcade. Didn't rock music-ish start playing at a certain point (at the stage boss)?
I did a quickly search in Japanese and couldn't find any mention of a release on the PCE. I personally don't remember since it wasn't a game I wouldve gotten for the system back in the day.
It does seem that game was released on the Famicom if this Amazon seller is legit. https://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%83%93%E3%82%B9%E3%82%B3-%E3%83%84%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%82%A4%E3%83%BC%E3%82%B0%E3%83%AB/dp/B000068HAY
Mine is all original and works perfectly. I haven't heard that TurboGrafx units are particularly prone to capacitor issues but of course with anything this old it's a possibility. I have gotten the impression that turboduo units have alot of issues but I don't own one currently. The first thing I would do is purchase an aftermarket video booster card that will give you component and composite video out. They only cost around twenty bucks and it's a big upgrade over RF. As far as games go I would recommend going for either loose Hucards or Hucards+jewel case and manual. If you're looking for complete games with the cardboard sleeve it's really tough not to mention expensive...I go for the game with case and manual as they're easier to source and it's a nice sweet spot between cost and displayability. You may want to consider a Turbo Everdrive or one of the knockoffs as they can be a really nice way to discover which games you actually want to purchase. Link below is for the video booster card. Have fun it's an awesome console!
Mcbazel RGBS Video Booster Audio Converter Signal Output PCB Board for NEC PCE PC Engine Grafx https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B5T5JK1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RQ4SKPCDADH8A3V7VJ30
It doesn't look likely.
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BUT you can get the PC Engine mini (the main difference is that it doesn't include the secret game, Salamander, BUT it has all the English and Japanese TG-16 listed games) on Amazon Japan for... cheaper than when it came out. It's basically about $70 USD + $20 shipping, but no tax.
Good luck
Unless you’re a “purist”, the mini is cool as hell.
Here is one on Amazon. With Amazon you can return if it doesn’t work. I also thought it was the dock but I wanted you to try the other thing before messing with the dock.
Official AC Adapter for Turbografx-16 Mini by HORI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V39WNM5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.wvLFb2GYFRB5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That’s the official one to compare. They should have included it with the mini.
There are two listings for each system on Amazon Japan. One ships internationally and the other doesn't. This is the correct link and you can see all three versions, by clicking the buttons on the page.
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This mod isn’t too bad in regards to soldering, cutting and soldering the pins gives some people pause, they are pretty close together, and like I said in the video, you definitely want to use heat shrink to keep them separated.
I believe the wire I used was 24awg, but I used it specifically for the colours to show wire locations, if you have an old hard drive cable....I’ve used that as well, much thinner wire.
You want to buy a game bit, usually they come in two sizes, buy both, they are inexpensive and are used on many consoles and game carts:
(Hope these links work)
Gamebit Screwdriver Set, Taessv Security Screwdriver Bit Set 4.5mm and 3.8mm Security Screwdriver Bits Perfect fit for Virtual Boy, Opening Nintendo, Sega Consoles and Game Cartridges https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07BF9CNNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CF7zDb2WJNN87
And the switch can be found on amazon as well, I got mine on a website called electronic goldmine, but a quick search shows they are out...
Found these on amazon as well:
uxcell® Self-Locking Push Button Switch 8PDT 8 Pole 24 Pin 1 Position https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07P7CS68M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UE7zDbEX100VJ
(And don’t worry, I won’t call the FCC police if you don’t put the top RF shield back in, but the bottom one needs to be there for the heat sink)
Help me? Thought it would help you from overpaying by so much and supporting inflated aftermarket prices. Sept 3 is less than 2 weeks away.
I’m gonna get this:
Official Turbo Controller for Turbografx-16 Mini by HORI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1Q2G8T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_frTzFbS3QW267
I’ll do research on the 8bitdo since it’s been mentioned in this thread a couple of times already. 👍
I ordered this one so i think i should be good.
Link to listing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QD9GQ9J/
Just fyi unlike the other moving "in-stock dates" this this appears to be a proper restock since it's MSRP via Prime. If you're been waiting DO NOT sleep on this listing or wait until September 15 to buy. If you're worried about funds you will not be charged until it ships.
Ordered mine from Amazon JP just now, and it came to $90.34 USD shipped. Favorable exchange rate? I did not opt to include the AC adapter. Link: https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B07QHNRVYV/
These look pretty solid as well from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DCR29GN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A36S1D7Y3ZG8ZE&psc=1
The older rectangle ipad chargers are 5V 2.1A. I used that for a couple days while I waited for this from Amazon:
icv USB Wall Charger - 5V 2A AC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0119BUJDQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I had originally pre-ordered the TurboGrafx-16 Mini from Amazon U.S., but cancelled and placed a new pre-order with Amazon Japan. Not only is it actually a cheaper option, and that's including the shipping, but you also have way more options, like a pack with an extra controller or an extra controller, a Multi-Tap, and an AC Adapter. Plus, the shipping is International Priority, which is 3 - 6 day shipping, but from prior experience it usually only takes 3 days at most.
Order page: https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B07QD9GQ9J/
Info page: https://www.amazon.co.jp/b/?ie=UTF8&language=en_US&node=6974564051
Ok.. where to begin.
The Duo looks rough. It does not include any cables, so no AC adapter, no video cables, no controller. The listing also does not clearly indicate that the CD drive has been tested.
The Coregrafx looks OK, but also does not include the AC adapter or video cables.
The PC Engine is complete, but the AC adapter won't work in the US.
Now you can use a cheap guitar peddle AC adapter for a PC Engine (and I think for the Coregrafx as well). This is the one I use (Amazon).
Let me ask this, what do you plan on hooking this up to (what connector type are you looking for. SCART, component, composite, RGBS, etc)?
What I would look for, is someone who actually shows the modification (example). Or I would go with an unmodified unit and an external RGB amp, either one of the cheap ones or a TenNoKoe2.
I read that elsewhere as well. But would it fix the issue I'm having?
These guys, right?
I'd rather get a 10 pack, but looks like they only sell the 100 pack.
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https://www.amazon.com/CMC-Pro-Powered-Technology-100-Pack/dp/B01HFBO78W/
For anyone wondering.. This is what I bought
OMNIHIL (8 Foot) AC/DC Power Adapter 9V 1.5A 1500mA 5.5x2.1mm (M Plug) Inner/Center/TIP Negative Polarity OMH-120-091521 Power Supply World Wide Voltage 100-240V, Compatible Part https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CYRYZ6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Qsh9BbSBPEH0W