What are /r/VolvoRWD's favorite Products & Services?

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The previous owners probably just let things burn out and didn't care enough to replace them. I just bought these myself. They fit well, are bright, and fit almost every interior socket. The polarity matters so if they don't work at first just flip 'em and it'll light up. Do NOT put an LED in the rear ashtray socket because fuses will pop.

I know the sedan taillights are... finicky at best. Haven't had experience with them myself but I know the printed circuit gets screwed up. Scroll around on here, it'll give you some avenues to get them working.

> Get a combustion chamber exhaust gas tester

Thank you for pointing that out. I ordered a combustion leak detector:

https://www.amazon.com/RELD-Gasket-Tester-Combustion-Detector/dp/B07RS3N98V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2Y3INH5S2MD0J&keywords=combustion+leak+detector&qid=1668446043&sprefix=combustion+leak+%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0Tm...

paint on the leading edge of my hood is pretty cooked after 33 years. looking around for a hood bra and can’t seem to find anything other than one marketed for 940 models (https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Auto-Accessories-Bonnet-Volvo/dp/B07MC9KNJM) anyone know if there has been one made for 740s or if this 940 one would be able to fit? thanks!

Are you swapping in an LS or something similar that needs high flow line? I’m curious if the problem is just the interface between the sender and the stock hard lines or if you are putting in a whole new run. I just rebuilt my entire system and had to replace some parts and I used Dorman Nylon Thermoplastic lines like this

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-074-Fuel-Line/dp/B000E323IA

on the recommendation of my mechanic mentor. I was rebuilding using the stock lines and just needed it in one spot but it was super easy to use and I’m told whole runs can be made rather simply it’s just heating the tube and pressing it onto a barbed fitting. Maybe not as slick as an-6 fittings but maybe easier and cheaper if you plan on doing it yourself.

Either way I would probably use a short length of regular fuel line (I think it’s 5/16 but I’m not sure) and a proper fuel line hose clamp to connect to the senders output, and then use a barbed fitting and another hose clamp like this to then connect to either AN6 lines or thermoplastic lines.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapters-Aluminum-Barbed-Fitting-Black/dp/B07Z8THFY3/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2HZLBVRF4694C&keywords=-6+an+barbed+fitting&qid=1646960221&sprefix=6an+barbed+fitting%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-3

I got a popup warning:

"DataTables warning: table id=facebookTable - Invalid JSON response. For more information about this error, please see http://datatables.net/tn/1"

when I opened. Otherwise, looks good

I made a guess and bought an adapter on Amazon, I had to collapse the shifter a little and then pound the adapter on with a hammer but worked out in the end. If you dont mind permanently modifying your shifter I say go for it. I think I used this adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXHDJW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_9FYH08CEPZYEA64QX700 but again it required me to collapse the shifter in on itself where there's a cut out towards the top with vice grips.

The beam has a decent cutoff but lets a little light up that helps illuminate signs and such. I still need to adjust them down a bit. The lower portion of the light is the low beams and the upper portion the high beams. I was gonna wire them so that all four low beams were on instead of just the outside two, but they're really bright.

Here's a link to the lights I bought:

4x6 LED Headlights

This is what i did for my 240 and 940 wagon. I can show you how to do the wiring as well if you want but i these little led lights on Amazon for pretty cheap. They look nice and bright, the wiring is pretty tedious but if own a 240 you must be pretty patient already haha

https://imgur.com/a/wcSL9OX

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DKZ3N3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fvBoFbW0W5Q7J

Do you happen to know where I can get a replacement mount? I found some round and rectangular mounts that seem to work, but I hear that only the rectangular ones are for automatic transmissions. I found this (URO Parts 1359138 Transmission Mount, For Vehicles w/AT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0066TI272/) but it looks a little different then the ones in these pics (https://imgur.com/a/CR0Jt2x). Any ideas?

'92 is a great year that said, water pooling on the dash is really not good. The ECU for the fuel injection,the EZK for the ignition and the fuel pump relay are all located above the passenger side foot well. You need to address that pronto, probably a poorly installed windshield or rust under the seal allowing water ingress. Get a Bentley manual and check the fuses, fuel pump relay, see if it looks like water is getting into the ECU or EZK. Get the manual, these cars are easy to work on but even if you don't it'll give you a better understanding of your 28 year old car. Lastly have your mechanic check out the crank position sensor (CPS for short). Located on the back of the engine, subject to high heat so the wire insulation gets cracked. If it shorts out that'll cause the problem you're seeing. Oh yeah, find a Volvo shop in your area if you can't do the work. Where are you?

Don't ground to the tension bolt. As long as you have one to the block you should be good, another to the body can't hurt. It's not a bad idea to make sure your belly pan is installed to, to help keep the alternator and those grounds dry and a little cleaner.

I just recently replaced my alternator and all of the main electrical cables. I used these cables, (and holy crap they are half the price I paid on black friday!). I cut them to the lengths I needed and crimped on 4 gauge copper terminals while using their battery terminals. One red and one black 98" cable is enough to replace everything and they are high quality. Worth thinking about doing.