I used this to rebuild my 79's 3L.
Also, don't bother with Rennlist. Use Pelican Parts forum. It's more for 911's of your vintage. They also have an engine building specific forum.
If you still don't have the confidence to rebuild yourself, I'll second TLG.
They look like universal Saddle Blanket seat covers.
I have them in my 1968 Squareback. They fit OK, except the bottom slides off when I get out of the car. Some double-sided tape or velcro tabs is an easy remedy for that issue, though.
Jbugs, CB Performance, and SoCal Imports are where I personally get all my parts. Jbugs has a few items of questionable quality, but for the most part everything has been good. They're also usually a bit cheaper than other places.
Also if you're going to do the majority of work on it, I'd look into getting a service manual. There's the Bentley manual, but apparently there isn't one that covers 1960. There are actual shop service manuals, and those might work. I have this book and I like it. It's got a lot of info about pretty much anything you'll need to work on, and it covers every year Bug.
On another note, keep spare parts in the car in case of a breakdown. I used to have a spare belt, spark plugs, light bulbs, carb rebuild kit, and a tool kit with sockets, wrenches, etc. I ditched the carb kit when I upgraded to dual carbs a while back. A spare throttle cable and clutch cable would probably be good as well. I haven't had it happen, but they do break occasionally and it sucks to be stranded with something that simple.
Cheap ones from amazon, pretty sure any 7 inch for jeep or motocycle lights would work .
This is them when i bought these the price was 39$ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017H3YHDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_11rVCbYB320CK
This is a good book if you don't have it: https://www.amazon.com/VW-Air-Cooled-Engines-How-Rebuild/dp/1613254334/ref=pd_bxgy_img_sccl_2/136-9242355-2162352?pd_rd_w=pd14n&content-id=amzn1.sym.7f0cf323-50c6-49e3-b3f9-63546bb79c92&pf_rd_p=7f0cf323-50c6-49e3-b3f9-63546bb79c92&pf_r...
Personally if you have the funds I would get the crank/pressure plate/flywheel balanced together at the same time. Have the shop then match up some bearings for you.
Put the case together with some gasgacinch and machine the barrels to get 8:1 - 8:5 compression. Then install them with some anaerobic sealer or Right Stuff rtv.
While doing this is would not be a bad idea to check the heads out. At the very least I would hand grind the valves to make sure they are seating. The heads play a huge part in it running at isn't fullest potential.
Good luck with it.
This book is the best book I ever had for working on an old VW engine.
Extremely well written, with great pictures. Got me through two different VW engine overhauls when I was in college back in the 1970s and 80s.
Back in the 60s (and late 50s) the big haa-haa was the large plastic VW Bug 'wind-up' key with a suction cup at the distal end so that you could stick it onto your bug as with a kiddie wind-up toy. Haven't seen any of them for a while, though. The one below is a more modern version:
https://www.amazon.com/VW-Beetle-Pink-Wind-Key/dp/B00WW19B46
Look for a rectangular filter. They're ubiquitous for Weber progressive style carbs though. Empi makes a modern version, but you'll find them made by Weber and Holley too going as far back as the '70s
though I don't know if a 38/38 uses the same filter as a 32/36, this ad calls for the same filter for both.
https://www.amazon.com/Weber-Redline-Filter-Cleaner-99217-331/dp/B07Y42GSJW
Get the Bentley Manuel it will save you a ton of heartaches https://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Fastback-Squareback-Service-Manual/dp/0837617006/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?adgrpid=62827472605&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh9DJh6yJ-wIVVhXUAR2D1Q_dEAAYASAAEgIHbvD_BwE&hvadid=580862415998&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9027712&h...
Sure it's rust-oleum direct to vinyl Rust-Oleum 400ml Direct to Vinyl Spray Paint - Black, AE0130001E8 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001W03PQS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9P339HHNZ6REGV7ZKXKJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 my order history shows I purchased 2 cans at the time and I can't remember having any surplus afterwards, I did the sun visors too IIRC
Couldn't you just drill out a cable stop and use an additional washer and some lock tight to hold it?
Like one of these? Limited-time deal: Dorman 03336 Cable Stop Assortment - Brass and Silver, 6 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COCPZM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_Y3Z7FA16J3DKVT051EEQ
Highly recommend this book for beginners, easy to follow step-by-step instructions for most repairs and maintenance procedures:
How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot https://www.amazon.com/dp/1566913101/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_BNH3M5CZM7WPDDC0DQ5T
The book also has lists of recommended tools to get you started with.
Your project doesn't look bad at all, a great starting point. Don't sweat the cosmetics right now. Focus on starting, running and stopping. Floors are good to have as well.
Cip1.com is a good source for parts.
TheSamba.com is an invaluable resource, check it out.
Go to your local auto parts store and get a small floor tack, like this one at amazon For what to carry here is a youtube. It a bit overkill IMO.
I’m sure they’re Chinese, here’s a link Zmoon 7" Round LED Motorcycle Headlight with 75W Cree Hi/Lo Beam, Amber & White DRL Halo Ring Angle Eyes for Harley Davidson FLD/Touring/Softail Models(1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T28C69B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d0VhFbHM8Z7YJ
I had an old Combi back in the day that used to burn fuel inefficiently. The level in the sump went up not down over a few weeks of driving as the fuel built up in the oil. A long country drive would boil it off and the oil level would drop suddenly. Turned out the cam was one tooth out of synch with the crankshaft. Lots of things can cause your problem - too much choke, float level and other carby issues, spark timing. My point is, you might want to take a scientific approach* to your problem to avoid spending a lot of money on something it isn't. (* Read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance for a good analysis)
Technically, no.
Fun fact: Ralph also wrote a book about the beetle called small on safety - the in-designed dangers of the volkswagen
Yes. Bill Fisher covered this pretty well in his book, How to Hot Rod Volkswagen Engines. He coveres mild to wild pretty well. I'm only about a quarter of the way through it myself. I appreciate his sensitivity towards budgets and he is also fairly scientific about testing how modifications perform by themselves in a stock engine using a dyno.
I agree with Myles9001 and HellaFella420, more carburation and open exhaust will probably give you the largest increase for the money.
https://www.amazon.com/How-Hot-Rod-Volkswagen-Engines/dp/0912656034