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Looks like Amazon has a non-OEM replacement for $35
https://www.amazon.com/Freezer-Gasket-AP4086575-PS2075875-70025-5/dp/B074F42625
While I appreciate the gold, you should take the money and give it to your local food bank. They buy nearly expired but still good packaged food for MUCH cheaper than the grocery stores can, so sending them a little money could give bags of groceries to people who need it.
I worked for a food distributor and we would sell literal pallets of food for around $0.25/pound.
Stens 265-044 OEM Replacement Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LA5EAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nQxuFbB9P92Q8
This is what I got from the numbers on the belt. The part number should also be on the belt somewhere.
yes, replace the waveguide cover
search for your model number and waveguide.
looks like
https://www.amazon.com/Microwave-Parts-Slice-Insulation-Accessories/dp/B073TY3G8W
(that isn't yours)
Sorry, misinterpreted your comment as indicating you didn't have a way to test resistance. Guess it is my bad. Good luck.
One other thing... those infra red thermometers are amazingly cheap. When you turn on the oven the bottom should be getting hot as well as something from the top. The IR thermometer will let you check where the heat is.
An example, I get nothing from the link. search for ir thermometer gun. Picked this one at random.
The easiest way to do it would be to just buy an adapter. Like this one on Amazon. Just make sure you can still ground your appliance somehow, I'm not exactly sure what the 'w' labeled pin does on the three prong.
Don't be. My smoothtop stove actually came with a razor scraper. I bet yours did too. You will need it the first time you drip or spatter something on the hot surface.
This is what they typically look like, although some are made of plastic https://www.amazon.com/American-Safety-Razor-66-0445-Heavy-Duty/dp/B000WC8UF8/
I've had good luck with Cerama Bryte. Have also heard good things about Weiman Glass Cooktop Cleaner and Polish.
I bought this product for the rust areas on my racks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I9SK73K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_eiiCdQ6kKF4gD So far, about three months, it has held up great. Just make sure that you sand and clean with alcohol before you apply the paint. I put on a coat, let it dry for about an hour and repeated for a few coats. I then let it dry fully for around two days (probably didn't need to do it that long) to make sure it fully cured.
F7E1, Actuator error code. 99% of the time, you need this part.
Part number: W10006355
Amazon link ($29): https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10006355-Actuator/dp/B00DM8KQ2Y
How to install: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVjTY-Hj4jw
Thanks!
I like this one for around the house when I can access the outlet. Nice to have usb for charging things. https://www.amazon.com/Protector-POWRUI-charging-6-Outlet-Certified/dp/B07DCRVBYX/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Surge+protector&qid=1626531235&sr=8-12-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFTRk1FUjFTT0kwNlEmZW5jcnlwdG...
I like this one for behind fridges because the swivel feature. Allows one to push the fridge all the way back to the wall. I sell this to customers when I have their fridge out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DMLTS6Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I guess if you can find a manual for it there might be some troubleshooting tips. But something that old may be hard to track down. I guess if you do not use the oven or only sparingly you could opt to get a countertop oven instead. We purchased this oven for the Alexa integration. It is weird talking to our oven but it does make things easier especially with messy hands. We have a Samsung stovetop+oven (came with our new construction house purchase) and it works with an app to control it.
I'm too Canadian I had to google that lol.
Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/GE-WB24T10025-Electric-Infinite-Switch/dp/B003BNZ4YK
Your switch is for the 8" so no need to get confused about the options.
I don't think the plug is D shaped. I think that flat metal side you see acts like a spring to put tension on the plug to hold it in. Maybe this adapter will work?
How about just covering the TUBING with some of the split flexible plastic conduit used in cars to protect wiring?
Here is an amazon link: LINK
I suspect you could get 1ft of it at an auto parts store for a buck or two.
They can chew on it and your plastic pipe stays safe. Everyone's happy!
Measure the height and pick up some black rubber baseboard trim. It should look like the stuff you can find in offices. Something similar to this - M-D Building Products 93146 4-Inch by 20-Feet Adhesive Back Vinyl Wall Base, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A7SJS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_OYCQFbYJ9F38B
You should be able to find it at Home Depot or Lowes
I have a GE dishwasher, can't find the model number. This piece has a rubber outlet that goes to the pump, sits upside down on the bottom of the unit. It's a checkball valve? My attempts at repairing the rubber piece are obvious in the post, complete failure. I can't figure out what the thing is called, and without the model number I'm having the difficult time. Can anyone help?
[Edit] I'm pretty sure it's a Costco members only unit, GDT530PSPSS. I suppose I'll just yank the unit off again and take it to my local repair guy. If anyone knows any tips about not replacing the whole thing, I'd love to hear it. It's just the rubber boot connecting this valve to the pump. The whole assembly is $75.
ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Webster/134374100awd_ts.pdf
There's the tech sheet. The diagnostic procedure is written in a rather convoluted way, but it's worth a try. Gut feeling is the main control has gone wacky. Loose connection is possible but honestly I don't see loose connections almost at all. Kind of sounds like a relay is going out, or the control is failing to supply voltage to said relay. In either case, you'd want to replace the main control since IIRC all that is on one board.
But that board costs $390 retail (although amazon has em for $230 https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-137005000-Microcomputer/dp/B00E0CWHWI )
I've never replaced one (because no one wants to sink $600 into a 10+ year old machine) so I can't tell you how difficult it is.
Looks like the little plastic nub broke off the door closure cam, door stop looks fine.
You can get it from Amazon
Hope this helps, GL
As I suspected, that's a Peltier Cooling device, not a typical 'compressor'.
It's an electrical module that cools by passing high current through device that swaps the heat for cold, simplistically speaking. They are grossly inefficient. I've fixed a few and been frustrated by others.
you can get the module
https://www.amazon.com/TEC1-12705-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Peltier-77Wmax/dp/B01LXZLN5G
it may work to replace it. It may work to replace the thermo but checking the model numebr, most parts are not avilible
You can check to see the heat sinks are functioning properly also. There are fans for both the heating and cooling they are NECESSARY. you cannot run these without good fans driving the heat away.
hope you didn't spend a lot on it
thanks. Do you think it's safer to replace the dryer cord or use an adapter? Something like this,
https://www.amazon.com/Cleyean-Adapter-10-30P-14-30R-External/dp/B087NQ3Y2N/
Something like this.
I just bought a knockoff tool and it's held up just fine. I also strongly suggest using the OEM bearing kit. The knockoffs are cheaper but the quality is spotty. The Whirlpool bearing kit is worth the money.
... and I was just looking at that on Amazon about to edit this post to ask if this would work! https://www.amazon.com/279457-Connecting-Whirlpool-AP3134638-PS334206/dp/B07KXVNHW8/ - Looks like it has the right size and its a 2 pack. I'll order this so I have a spare, just in case. Thank you!
Looks like you are missing the an Adapter ring that would mount on the two knobs that on the the exhaust of the unit.
Amazon has options, just search using the model number of the AC unit. This Adapter looks similar to what you need.
I'll definitely clean out the lint since the thermal fuse has blown before. I was able to get this kit off of amazon for under $23. The disassembly looks pretty straightforward and simple.
I'm not sure if this is the same, but most ovens commonly took "IGN5" ignitors.
https://www.amazon.com/IGN5-Upgraded-Replacement-Kenomre-Ignitor/dp/B07K3WNDZR
You can try that one but you need to splice the wires together and use the ceramic wire nuts provided. If you use regular wire nuts they will melt.
I can't really tell if that will work but I would go OEM before I go for that really cheap-looking $18 one on amazon.
When you load the dishwasher, without "pulling up the handle", is the control panel lit and not responding to the start button? Or does it seem like the dishwasher has no power and won't turn on until you "pull up"?
If it's the latter issue, you may need to double check that he power plug is securely installed and the plug is firmly seated in the outlet. I had a very similar issue with my LG dishwasher, and one of the problems turned out to be that the power cable was being slightly dislodged when the machine was pushed all the way back to the wall, causing the machine to intermittently appear to have no power until it was slightly moved using the front handle.
In my case, this issue was resolved by using an appliance extension cord to provide a few extra feet of slack which prevented any further movement of the power plug.
https://www.amazon.com/GoGreen-Power-GG-25606-Extension-Cord/dp/B00NY3R5SA/
Happened to me a couple of month ago I had to replace the same Broan blower on my hood since I had the same issue, very noisy rattling etc... spent $400 and got only 1 year of warranty.
I cleaned and disassembled the old blower motor (very easy to do), the motor shaft spins between two small ball bearing and I noticed that the shaft had a noticeable "play" which the new motor didn't had. I assumed that maybe the ball bearing had worn out causing the play in the shaft, making it vibrating and the fan wobbling, producing that mix of metal rattling and big noise. The 2 ball bearing are sitting into a rubber sleeve so they are easy to remove, you don't need an extractor.
I ordered new ball bearings (8x19x6 mm) on Amazon (those one) and re-assembled the blower, I then unplugged the new blower and connect the old one. With the new ball bearing the blower was again silent like new....Well I have now a spare blower lol, you can try replacing the bearings, maybe it can fix your blower issue as well, they are like $20 for 10 pieces, it is worth a try, maybe you are lucky.
And how old is it? This would be a warranty issue if you have coverage.
It seems the the pressure relief valve above the pump is failing in a weird way, I guess it opens when a pour finishes to dump and excess pressure and then it sticks open. Then slowly closes when the machine is not in use.
Looks easy enough to replace if you are handy. This is should be it.
https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Various-Breville-Espresso-Machines/dp/B078B49RF5
Another thing you should probably try first is a setting factory reset. hold the program button for a few seconds. Im not confident itll help but it cant make it worse.
I got a few propane/natural gas/CO alarms that plug into the wall. I put one on each floor in case there’s ever a leak. They’re on super sale right now for $40 and worth the peace of mind IMO. Here’s a link if you’re interested
Hello I am a full time appliance repair technician. When it comes to drum seal some time the felt come with the drum it self include I found a felt that might be compatibles with your drum measure your existing felt and see if it the same sizes as your
https://www.amazon.com/GE-WE09X20441-Dryer-Felt-Seal/dp/B00PKI6ZP6
I don't have high temp ones on-hand. Is this the right kind? Or would I be likely to find high temp ones at a hardware store instead of waiting on shipping?
You're welcome! I was able to reuse the three bolts that hold arm to the drum but depending on how badly things are corroded you might want to have some on hand.
So your heater runs 4-7 amps on 120volts. It takes a crap load of time to heat the water and your dishes to 160 degrees. That’s the main reason we have 3 hour+ wash cycles.
With hard water (my service area has normal to soft water) I’ve heard a hard water booster can help a bit.
https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Water-Booster-Powder-Sparkle/dp/B007Z48F56
So Bosch actually has their own cordhas their own cord and their own junction box for installs. Didnt know this until I installed one, but theres been cases of it burning up the cords or connections.
Granted, if you do it right, there shouldn't be a problem. Im just pointing out that they have a plug in the back for cords, which is a Bosch only idea, and is kinda convenient
Yeah, then that's just extremely unlucky. Typically the door cable would snap, metal hinges get bent, or bending the door. I've never seen this part break which is why I figured I'd ask.
I believe that if you put more pressure on one side of the door it would cause more stress to that peg. I would assume the peg is being used as a pulley. It is taking most of the stress of the cable from the door. From the looks of it, you use a spring system which means the further out the spring stretches, the more pressure is put on the peg. That would be my best observation. Keep in mind I'm an ex-appliance technician and not a physicist so I could be completely wrong.
I would try gorilla glue epoxy or anything stronger. I really have no idea since I've never tried it. You could try a local hardware store and get anything that can really hold anything under pressure.
This one says 3000 PSI, so I think that should work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Z3C3AG?ie=UTF8&tag=bustle-30124492-20&camp=1789&linkCode=xm2&creativeASIN=B001Z3C3AG&th=1
Best of luck and let me know how everything goes! Rooting for you and I hope Bosch pulls through instead of having to go through all this.
For what it's worth, this part is BOSCH 00645701 Aqua Valve, and i can purchase a new one for ~$100 from amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-00645701-Original-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B00FJ5K30I
But if there is some way to repair it, that would be much more preeferable.
Thanks again everyone!
u/rwineland - I looked up WR60X26866 on amazon, my model number is not listed GFE28GSKFSS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PND4F48/ref=ox_sc_act_title_delete_1?smid=ARS6TOBOVCX0P&psc=1
Can you confirm that this will fit my model?
I recently installed the Emerson Common Wire kit, and I'm thinking I may have miswired it. On the thermostat side the 'W' and 'G' terminals share a wire via the diode; that wire runs straight to the 'W' terminal on the furnace control board. Thus, the when the fan is turned on, the system thinks it's getting a call for heat. Will report back...
Any Home Depot or electronic components stores. These
You don’t need to replace the wire harness, you can if you want OEM spec perfection on an older unit. You can just order this $7 kit. Cut the purple back past the damage, strip 3/8” of it, take the lead from this kit and the wire nut and connect them together presto change-o new connector. O.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXVNHW8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_i_DYAKF6ZS0QSBNZHRBMTB
if its a small hole, just use a john guest quick connect instead of having to replace the whole line. Any home depot or lowes will carry them for like 5 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/John-Guest-Speedfit-PPM0408W-Connector/dp/B003YKF2C4
You need a pipe wrench with smooth jaws or the hub nut wrench that fits like this
The wrench on the threads and a hammer or mallet to loosen. If i'm not mistaken, these nuts are reverse thread.
Can't really tell with the color but the bottom of that inner tub looks ruined. You'll likely need a new inner tub if its as broken as it looks.
Are the cleaning thingies freely spinning?
If you have a filter is it clean?
Maybe try running a dishwasher cleaner? - https://www.amazon.com/Affresh-W10282479-Dishwasher-Cleaner-Tablets/dp/B002R0DXQE/
Have you changed detergents recently? Try a different detergent?
Maybe try adding a rinse aid? - https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Jet-Dry-Rinse-Dishwasher-Drying/dp/B00C9SOB1K/
Are you washing aluminum pans in the dishwasher? I had an aluminum pot that I washed so much the coating came off of it and it started putting a weird film on everything when I ran it with normal dishes.
Alright yeah that part is just a plastic nozzle it isn't your problem - you'll need to replace the inlet valve. The part you're looking for is Part # AJU75152601 - Looks like its going anywhere from 80-120 for the original OEM part online, but I was able to find a replacement 3rd party on amazon here for a bit cheaper if money is a concern.
As far as replacing, are you somewhat handy? Its usually a pretty simple fix. Here is a video that walks you through the steps
well, it looks like i can get a generic replacement heater for $16, so i guess i'll go for the amateur method. thanks again for your help /u/Woodchuckcan
It might just need to have the receiver replaced. It's a relatively easy fix. I just had to replace mine earlier this year. This is the unit I used:
Ultra Durable 341241 Dryer Drum... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPDL9VV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
92¼" belt. Got the part number from https://www.partselect.com/PS346995-Whirlpool-341241-Multi-Rib-Belt-92-1-4-quot.htm?SourceCode=19&SearchTerm=MGD5630TQ0&ModelNum=MGD5630TQ0
It's actually very simple on those fridges if you're handy at all. This video should walk you through it at a quick glance and the part you need is this one according to your model number.
We have a GE dishwasher we thought was horrible.
Then we tried this stuff and it’s like the best dishwasher we ever had!
I am not joking or a shill!!!
Give it a shot!
Better Life Natural Dishwasher... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HJP9V58?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The agitator is not supposed to spin during the fill stage. The washer is attempting to spin the tub to get the load evenly wet. The drive hub teeth have likely been worn down and no longer grip the transmission spines. You can get it for pretty cheap on amazon here.
You'll need to remove your agitator with a 7/16 socket and underneath will be the drive hub. Remove the hub retainer, six screws and the hub should pull upward.
Before you order the hub, try to remove the agitator. If it comes up, you're lucky. If its stuck, a new washer it may be because you might destroy the agitator before it comes out.
Hello. I just got the DA32-00033C temp sensor in but it doesn't fit any of the connections revealed by the Evaporator cover or seem to match any parts I can see. I got this part from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W86Z9Z2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Upon further review of parts labeled "DA32-00033C" on amazon, it seems parts with different looks have the same name. Did I get bamboozled?
Drill holes in the door to mount a window pull to it?
10 Pack - Designers Impressions White Window Sash Lift : 4152 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0S594C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_573Y150TJAHNWCS14QY8
Your local hardware store will probably have so goes packs for cheaper
I am aware it needs to go up and out the top of the hole however all that is left is the outer race and there is no way to strike it from below, which is why I tried using the slide hammer to pull from above.
Duster spray did not work even when using this bearing removal tool
I've bought more carbide burrs and I'm continuing trying to cut the outer race into 2 pieces so I can get it out.
I think some of the adhesive provided with the first replacement bearing set I used went past the top seal and glued the bearing to the outer wash tub. It's the only reason I can come up with why it's stuck so tightly. Idk what, if anything, I could use to dissolve the adhesive that won't harm the plastic outer tub, and I'm not sure it's worth the risk. I've tried a few test spots at the top of the was tub with different adhesive removers and lubricants to make sure I don't damage the outer tub. Isopropyl alcohol, safari-land CLP, PB Blaster, wd-40, goo-gone, and a fairly agressive industrial solvent from work have proven safe for the tub but haven't had any luck cleaning any of the adhesive from the outer tub (after getting out the seal there was some adhesive that had cured around the hole on the bottom of the outer tub but nothing has removed any of it so far.) My only results were a mild headache from the industrial solvent fumes.
Amazon has good prices. I got a two-pack of the white bottom shelves (the one without the back) for around $25 and the uppers with backswere about $20 each. Ours is a different model than what OP posted.
You can since you have 1/2 inch of insulation but should you? No. Try this non-destructive method.
Refrigerator Door Lock with Padlock - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00722OIJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XDYDFX1D5QFJ76XF57RN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Google finds this
As well as this
INVERTEC Refrigerator Temperature Control (Thermostat) - WP2210489, REPLACES: 2210489 4431717 AP6006611 EAP11739687 PS11739687 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NGJKV2D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_DBCW1DM0Q6ZY102GAG1E
If the part is nla you can either buy the aftermarket one or a new fridge. I would personally take a shot with the aftermarket one.
Good call. I put the model number in the op.
This is the part I replaced: dishwasher circulation pump
Here is a link to the RO system I purchased. It's just the standard plastic ro line, it fits into the push connect fitting no problem. I've even set up an RO before but have never connected it to the fridge.
APEC Water Systems ROES-50... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0ZGOZM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thanks again for the help.
Thanks, will do!
Do you think I need to replace the entire wiring harness including thermostat? Or could I replace just this part (https://imgur.com/oeyrr4w) with something from Amazon like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07928M2R4?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_W1T91Z5X3R683VS62KM7
Don’t overthink this, get one of these, spend 5 minutes reading the instructions, install it, plug the unit in and see if it works.
Supco URCO810 Relay Kit , white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DZU7O8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BWMB067NTMS9PF69KB55
I’ll assume you checked the windings for resistance and shorts to ground? Those old school actual relays almost never fail.
Yes that's the part, I looked that part up to purchase it on amazon and found this. https://smile.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10410999-Motor/dp/B00DM8K30Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2HTXQ7Y21O3OX&keywords=w10410999+maytag+dryer+motor&qid=1649421765&sprefix=W10410999+%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-3
No instructions with the motor but I found instructions online that turned out to be wrong. But I found a video where this exact motor was wired up and followed that setup.
It seems others on amazon ordered the W10410999 and actually got the same model as me (W10410892) but wired it up and it worked just fine.
I'm thinking of buying this
Geesic Ceramic Fiber Blanket Fireproof Insulation Baffle Rated to 2400F, High-Temperature Resistance for Stoves, Kilns, Forges https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094D1QSLB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_KGZ6MJX3DVNGE99NP1C6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I can't vouch for the quality or durability of these but it is an inexpensive substitution. Most often OEM is just the way to go.
https://www.amazon.com/XPARTCO-134715900-5304523155-7134715900-PS12746506/dp/B091K1D4CN
Endurance Pro 5304514790, 5304514791 (33950008G) Valve Assembly With Flow Vortex Compatible with Electrolux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T1F8W21/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_B3R18QKAXB3A8QAA12DV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Handy Handheld Saw (Adjustable Length Hacksaw Blade Fitted Into A Plastic Handle). Made In Japan. Engineer Tz-02 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002F9MNZO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_593EB0Q4DNK413RD65A1
Can you get in there with something like this to cut it out?
> It’s the second time in 3-4 years the heating element failed so I am leaning towards the cheaper part.
To be fair, the Samsung elements don't usually last any longer than that.
While I've never used their Samsung element, the Napco Whirlpool elements are excellent.
https://www.amazon.com/NAPCO-DC97-14486A-Dryer-Element-White/dp/B01BGMU7LC
Same part, lower price:
Edgewater Parts Gas Range Oven safety Valve 3203459, Y-30128-35AF Replacement Compatible with Frigidaire (Fits Models: 30-11, 30-22, 30-25, 30-33, 30-65 And More) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HHDZ3S7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1G76P0XDEVTDSC63J0HF
I saw those kits when I was looking around, and I wasn't sure if they were what I needed.
Is there a reason something like these two kits wouldn't work
I know they are more expensive, but unless there is a reason you don't think they'd work I think I'd rather get them, so I can use them for more than this one specialized task. I did just watch a video on someone using the bearing tool you linked, and it looked pretty simple, and I saw a video yesterday where a guy used a socket, and socket extensions.
​
Thanks again for all of the help!!!
You can buy a few switches for 7$ from Amazon. You'll just have to cut the lever a little.
Here is the igniter I used: 5304509706 AP2U REPLACEMENT FOR KENMORE & FRIGIDAIRE RANGE/STOVE/OVEN - IGNITER 316489408 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K8RXC18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3PJEWB7XP3N41974GYB8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It did come with these two little wing nuts but nowhere was that mentioned in the video I watched so I didn’t end up using them for anything.
Got a model number?
If you order new locks they should come with keys. I don't know if they will be the same as the old ones.
2 Keys Speed Queen Service Panel - Commercial, Greenwald, Washing Machine SafeCo Brands (MX7) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R26MR7N/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VVM6XN5JWA9H0QST3HC1
This listing says you need to get the code from the lock and they will make ones that fit.
That makes sense! So, does that apply if it’s just the lens that broke? I’m not sure if the light itself broke, but I’ve ordered just the lensfor now to see.
My question is how is that N-85-QC-N valve for $100 different from ones for $17? They look exactly alike.
Thanks! It doesn't bounce as significant as a basketball, but I think you may be right. I carefully did two medium sized loads yesterday with no issue. This isn't ideal considering the amount of water wasted, but what are the odds it's the springs and not something like drum bearings (like another user suggested)?
If it still shook violently with only a single small item in the washer, then I could justify retiring this one, but it doesn't seem like this is the issue. What are your thoughts?
Is this all I need? Thanks a ton!
It looks like you got defective ones. When you push each corner, it shouldn't bounce at all. Return them. For samsung washers like yours, I've been using these and have had no issue
These is the parts I ordered
DC97-05280S Suspension Rod Washer damper Rod Assembly by Sikawai Compatible for Samsung
Washer Replaces for AP5799907 PS8764053(4PCS) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08CDBDQXL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_H2CSSEF1X243FS0N7BVF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I can’t tell if this post is shadow deleted. But if not I determined it was my solenoid/coils preventing gas from getting to the unit. Replaced with these from Amazon and working like a charm now.
Exact Fit 279834 Dryer Gas Valve Ignition Solenoid Coil Kit - For Dryers Premium Replacement Part by DR Quality Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FZJXITU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_DSJNWJ0CRGPXXFJVXMT8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My dryer model number is ALG866SAW. I couldn’t find anything definitive that this was the right replacement part, but it did seem like these 279834 style solenoids are common in Amana/Whirlpool dryers.
Replaced the whole hinge. Wasn't bad, just the $95 purchase on Amazon, but very simple with just ~8 Phillips screws once I got that :)
Your basket drive hub is probably worn out. You'll need to remove the agitator and the drive hub will be the piece underneath with 6 screws. You can get the part on amazon here. In case you need it, this video should show you how to change it. The washer used in the video has a different console but the procedure is the same.
this is pretty much the walk in standard for the industry, nut, i do not know if it is compatible with the controls of your freezer. just an option for you especially because you can mount the tstat externally and with a digital display for accurate temp readings. good luck!
Here is what you do:
Screws: Unscrew and out some silicon caulk on screw and inside, then screw back.
Wires: I don’t why they fall apart, your connections are very loose, make a proper connection, use the crimper tool.
Should ever ever fall apart.
Eventronic Insulated Ratcheting Wire Terminals Crimping Tool Kit of 22-10AWG / 0.5-6m㎡ with 800PCS 27 Types of Insulated Butt Bullet Spade Fork Ring Crimp Terminals Connectors https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B087JF1NLJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QMW95KJ4MV38T2DECKJ9
Amazon listing for this dispenser motor
I think that may be what's happening, I'll try to give it a clean and see what that does
You don't need a new tub just those nuts. They split all the time and are dirt cheap. The green stuff around them is just soap
Frigidaire 154106202 Heating Element Nut https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8K6RO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_D0C1Y1X5B6JJWW5J5HEH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Usually it's an igniter. To test check the amp draw when it's trying to light. It could be an issue with the Baird however you need to actually test it with a legit probe NOT a round one.
Copying from a post yesterday
Twist one of the probes around the center of the center rack
Calibrate with a set temp of 350.
The preheat will get way above 350. Then it will come down. Listen for the click of the element turning back on and write that temp down.
It will go back up listen for the click of it turning back on and write that down.
Do 5 high points and 5 low points.
Throw out the highest and lowest.
Add the highs together and then divide by 4
Do the same with the lows.
Add the two averages together and divide by two.
That's the temp it's holding.
Proster Digital Thermocouple Temperature Thermometer with Two K-Type Thermocouple Probe Backlight LCD K Type Thermometer Dual Channel for K/J/T/E/R/S/N Type https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V7T6TZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_SHH5MNCQR1FDHYFYWK2Y
Just connect it and twist the other end of the wire around the rack in the very center.
You need to have the bottom on the oven.
Calibrate with a set temp of 350.
The preheat will get way above 350. Then it will come down. Listen for the click of the element turning back on and write that temp down.
It will go back up listen for the click of it turning back on and write that down.
Do 5 high points and 5 low points.
Throw out the highest and lowest.
Add the highs together and then divide by 4
Do the same with the lows.
Add the two averages together and divide by two.
That's the temp it's holding.
Proster Digital Thermocouple Temperature Thermometer with Two K-Type Thermocouple Probe Backlight LCD K Type Thermometer Dual Channel for K/J/T/E/R/S/N Type https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V7T6TZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_SHH5MNCQR1FDHYFYWK2Y
https://www.amazon.com/GE-WD21X24901-Dishwasher-Electronic-Manufacturer/dp/B091FY8V8J
But verify your model # for me please. There's versions so if you could, take a photo of the model number sticker and use imgur to post it.
I'm not sure how to distinguish between 1 or 2. This is the part I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T9ZCH7H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use washing machine cleaner about once per month in my LG washer and it stopped having this issue.
Like I mentioned in another post, we have whole house filtration.
At the very least Id like to install an inline filter and remove the cold water filter on the washer.
Something like this: inline filter
Thank you. This is the heating element I found online - Samsung brand apparently.
SAMSUNG Heating Element Dc47-00019A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ICYB2M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_SSTQCEH4642ETEEDFERQ
>Muted-Associate
Can you talk more about why it might be a bad lid switch because I think it might be that but how I'm scratching my head on how it affects the machine if it still turns it on, it just doesn't spin. I've manually pressed on the switch too.
As for the clutch, it's on the transmission/gear case and I bought an entirely new gear case for this so I don't think it's that unless it's a different clutch you're talking about. This is what I bought gear case/ transmission for reference
I did the same thing. Get the spring tool. It solves the pain in the ass spring install. Did mine in ten minutes by myself.
Flex tape is waterproof, flexible, has no toxic solvents, and requires no drying time. Just cut a piece to completely cover the holes (overlap an inch or so to be safe) and apply the patch. A hair dryer can be used to heat the tape and improve the bond but that's optional.
https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Tape-Rubberized-Waterproof-Black/dp/B01N5Q3G8H/
You might try posting on nextdoor.com and see if anyone has something...or look at their for sale section.
And around here the laundromats have specials on one day a week, here it is Wednesday, where it is significantly cheaper.
You could use these rubber counter extenders to cover the gaps along the sides: https://www.amazon.com/Stovetop-Extender-SE24BLA-Oven-Guard/dp/B0027DW4QG
You can also raise the stove by either adjusting the legs or placing piece of lumber under the feet.
Failing that, your only real option is to measure the stoves in person at the store.