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I would buy this kit and upgrade to 5mm. The kit has stops to prevent you from drilling to deep. Message me if ya need any other help ✌
I like this one a lot.
Bob Lang's The Complete Kitchen Cabinetmaker, Revised Edition: Shop Drawings and Professional Methods for Designing and Constructing Every Kind of Kitchen and Built-In Cabinet (Fox Chapel Publishing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565238036/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_RVq.FbVZQBG75?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Honestly though, start with a book. This one is good, or just go to the library or whatever. Come back with questions after that. The level of knowledge that you need to pick up is way more than you’re gonna get from the comments.
Not something I'd do in a client's house, but I'd be fine with it on my garage cabs.
I use Mohawk or Quickwood 2 part epoxy and spray the parts needed with a matching paint. Melamine can be a pair for chipping of you don't have the right saw and blades.
The Mohawk link is to Amazon...it's expensive there, you can probably find it cheaper elsewhere.
Anything that you can make work, will work. I would not recommend it in this case though. Seeing the hinge stick out of the edge, you might not see it when the door is closed but upon opening the door, it's not a good look.
If you insist on retro-fitting then use the soft closer the other guy recommended: https://www.amazon.com/Blum-971A9700-22x10-BLUMOTION-Cabinet-Polybag/dp/B078H2Y3GF
However in my professional opinion I must advise against investing anything into these cabinets. The face frame style, door style, material, and hinges are all very dated. And the door is too close to the floor.
The soft close is a nice feature, but if it was mine, I would be planning soft close for the NEW cabinets and not spending any time on these.
Soft close adapter is much easier leaving no face holes to repair than replacing hinges
This type WON'T work w your hinges https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRLHIEK
This one will https://www.amazon.com/Blum-971A9700-22x10-BLUMOTION-Cabinet-Polybag/dp/B078H2Y3GF
.
I am aware, it is pretty standard hardware, push to release drawer slides. WHile an interesting idea, how much TP storage do you need? And haven't you moved to a Bidet yet?
So I would recommend starting off with determining your reveal? since you only have 3/4" vertical plywood, lets call the reveal 1/8", that leaves us with 5/8" available space for the overlays. Since you have 2 doors, divide 5/8 by 2 and your overlay would have to be 5/16" for each door.
I found these on amazon, they are 1/4" overlay. Reveals will prob not be exactly 1/8 but they should work..
Depending on hinge style you can also usually hide them behind the hinges too. I would reccomend still predrilling at least the one faceframe. I've had the longer trim screws split or bulge fame frames before. Never to the point of it being an issue, but enough that if you were looking for things to bitch about it might make the list.
Also, get a set of these Bessy Clamps. They make getting flush, tight installs super easy.
Not sure which brand of hinge or if the soft close is an adapter.
Here's a solution though
Let me know if the link didn't work
It looks like these might be lacquer paint, so if they do supply you with touch up paint be careful as it will take some time to build up small coats to fill in the chipped paint with the lacquer paint.
If the installer/supplier wont replace or repair it, and you are handy, then you can get some of these wax stick and match the color and fill the cracked off paint.
wax fill stick, rub it in and buff it off with a soft cloth.
​
If you're looking for a really heavy loaf to be held go get some metal 90° angle brackets. Large ones.
https://www.amazon.ca/Brackets-Support-Corner-Bracket-Screws/dp/B083LTK5RK
Or
Look up floating vanity or floating cabinet hardware brackets.
Usually they hide inside the cabinet, depending on design. This allows your look and gives strength.
The issue is your filler choice was incorrect. Try Aqua Coat.
Strength, 1/2" bottom, 3/4" plywood for the sides frt and back.
Rigidity:
https://www.amazon.com/Blum-TANDEM-Lateral-Stabilizer-Drawers/dp/B00ZGKOFCS
You can buy just the clips like here:
Hard to diagnose a solution. If the drawers were aligned when closed and now aren’t, I would probably realign then shim to the sides in the back like previously mentioned.
Another option is a strong adhesive between the clip and slide, though that’s probably a last resort.
True precision jig is hands down the best. That being said this is the one I use almost daily.
Cabinet Drawer Drilling Template Jig, Adjustable Drill Guide for Door Handle and Knob Punch Locator for Easy Installation Professional Cabinet Template Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DM1S5VT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_WDZKQC2J1NC901SSJ0A9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m a DIYER just used this one in my kitchen project. https://www.amazon.com/TOURACE-Hardware-Aluminum-Dowelling-Templates/dp/B07JYQKG5Y. Worked great! But after you use it’s like damn I could have made one.
I bought this jig through Amazon and it works great. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09KB13739?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Alternatively, I've also built my own jigs from either plywood or MDF (depending on the cabinet finish). As long as everything is laid out from a center grid line, it can be used accurately while reversing for left/right doors.
I highly recommend the jig from Amazon though. Very, very cheap for the quality.
Not sure if this is what you are both describing but I found this .
Heavy Duty Hinge with Soft Close 50lb/2pcs Folding Lid Stay Hinge for Cabinet, Kitchen Wardrobe Toy Chamber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BHRZ47N/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_T5J7DNDCRW6PS77Q570Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Might be called toy box hinges.
I would add a magnetic latch to help hold it in place. In addition, you could add a latch that would require a magnet to be put in a specific spot to allow access.
Laser level . You use this and it puts a level laser line on the wall.
DEWALT Level, Cross Line Laser, Green (DW088CG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQPYPO3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_MVQB04Q7Y33WWH0EQZGM
Thank you. The problem is the holes do not seem to line up with the other series of hinges. I ordered 33 series hinges and the holes did not line up
Blum 110 Degrees Screw On Self Closing Compact 33 Hinge Pack of 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y65Y8LR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_4ATQAZR4C6DGMZM20ZGD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here are some typical Youngdale hinges. They have differing overlays, so watch out. These might workforces you.Youngdale 1/4" Overlay Self Closing Knife Hinge For 1/2" Minimum Thickness Door White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CC01AU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QH8PEH7DR0YZ000KAW8F
DEVAISE 2 Drawer Lateral File Cabinet with Lock, Filing Cabinet fits Letter/Legal/A4 Size, Large Printer Stand with Storage Shelves for Home Office, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T6HWFQ3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2NZJWSYH5YGM91PJXQDB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the cabinet I bought
They all have that adjustment. But you need to know your overlay (most common 1/2”) but could be 5/8”, 3/4”, 1”, 1 1/4”. Although that’s unlikely. When the door is closed, use a pencil to mark on the cabinet at the outside edge of the door, on the hinge side. Then open the door and measure from the opening to the pencil line. That should tell you the overlay. Then buy something like these… Blum 38N355BE08x50S Compact Soft-Close 1/2'' Overlay Blumotion Hinge, Nickel Finish (Pack of 50) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078H7WSC5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SGVND2B07CDDYVHM6V4Z
I'm honestly still a bit confused, but what I think you're getting at is installing that fan into a piece of plywood that is sized similarly to the bottom of an existing cabinet above the stove. You're wondering what to do about the exposed edge of the ply wood. This stuff is called edge banding. It applies to the exposed edges of ply wood with an iron and then can get trimmed with a razor blade and/or file. It comes in stain grade or paint grade so you can finish it however you like.
I must have described what I wanted to do correctly. I'm now considering the fan below. I still need to make a wood platform but the fan will now take up most of the space.
For the .75 inch of wood around the perimeter; how should I finish the plywood? Normall you would be cutting the bottom of the cabinet which is finished at the factory.
Stain or paint? Will be in a hood with decorative trim, so hard to see.
Hauslane | Chef Series Range Hood R100 30" Built-In/Recessed Stove Hood | Compact Stainless Steel | 3 Speed Kitchen Exhaust Fan with Light | Dishwasher-Safe Baffle Filter | 6" Duct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NJSSTGD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YJQP25EFSKKWCV29WRY6
I totally understand where you are coming from, managing multiple projects using multiple tools can get on your nerves and distract you from the main goal.
We are using ProProfs Project to manage all our ongoing projects under the same roof. We can plan our projects and allocate tasks using a shared calendar, view project milestones using Gantt Charts, track time spent on each task using timesheets, and generate branded invoices for our clients. I hope this tool will help you get your projects sorted. Good luck!
You want Lazy Susan Cabinet hinges. That said, you'd have to get new doors made to the right dimensions that are overlay as opposed to inset (what those doors are currently).
The cabinet style you're looking for is usually called EZ Reach Corner Cabinets and you can get them with shelves or with lazy susans built in. The total cost to purchase all that will most likely be close to the cost of the cabinet as a whole. Unless you have some semi serious DIY skills this could get out of hand quickly. You have to be EXTREMELY accurate with your measurements when ordering the doors to get them to sit right.
Probably no simple answer,unless someone recognizes the specific model. In general this is called a face frame hinge. The hinge is mounted to the inside edge of the frame. The next factor is how much the door overlays the opening when closed. It actually could be different between cabinets depending on application. The degree of opening varies, but with this type of face frame hinge it is restricted to about 95-105 degrees. Have had good luck with this hinge, but confirm the overlay. Hinge
Drawer guides spacer blocks. Overloaded or defective.Drawer guide spacer
Ball bearing side mounts are best bang for you buck. You might want to add some horizontal rails to strengthen the cabinet. I have had pretty good luck with these. Inexpensive by full box. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IM6BBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_XN4CY658V50W5HN05P3R
Thank you all for your input. I ended up going with these. Not soft close but self close. And I had to buy the plates separately. They fit perfectly.
Blum 110 Degrees Press In Self Closing Clip Top Diagonal 45 Degrees Cross Corner Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006HGM40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XESQ6SR2BW06F657VWPW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sorry I don’t know the answer to your question. This is a possible solution if you can’t find what you are looking for.
Universal Face Frame Cabinet Soft-Close Adapters Unisoft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SB9MPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_396R597AYXVBFP2YTB2T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Cabinet hardware has changed considerably in the 40 years since yours were made. Although I have seen those glides in installed cabinets before, I have never seen them in any of my catalogs.
Your best bet may be to replace them with self adhesive UHMW tape. It comes in different thicknesses. Something thin will probably suffice for function, but you may need to match the thickness of the existing slides to have everything align properly.
UHMW TAPE 19-20A-.75-18 Tape with Acrylic Adhesive.020" UHMW with .002" Thick Acrylic Adhesive.75" Width x 18 yd, 3" ID Core, Transparent/Opaque https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4EQ52P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_xbO1Fb9ZRQV7P
You could do something very close with this Amana Tool - 45932 Carbide Tipped Core Box 1/4 Radius x 1/2 Dia x 1-1/4 x 1/2" Shank E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P4JSAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aurFFbR20HAA0
The router would need to be in a table with a fence, and you’d run the panels vertically through the table. You would need to do two passes.
If you want to use the same hinges, you can buy a soft close damper like this ...
Blum 971A9700.22x10 971A BLUMOTION Cabinet Soft Close Polybag Kit for Doors, Nickel Finish (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078H2Y3GF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TY6DFb81Z9V17
Or you can order new “thermo-foil” doors (kinda expensive), and paint the cabs to match. I’d do white, and buy salice or Blum hinged w soft close. Those cabs, although in good condition, are definitely dated.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-Matte-Black-Cabinet-Hinge/1063635
This is what has always been on them before. (it's a family home) and sadly I think you're right. I was hoping to get something that wasn't outward facing like that. But I'll try to find a similar hinge instead to update it.
I found these : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G503IOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FyZrFbM7A7QRH last night and figured they might work but I'm really against these style of hinges all together :( but I can't afford new cabinets so it is what it is.
Thank you so much for all your help!!
I tried these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S91K3G1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_19ZrFbTGR4AWG
And it looked like it was going to fit great but then the door wouldn't fit into the opening and I was back to the beginning :(