Hey, I appreciate that man!
Thanks for the input. Do you think this laser would be suitable?
You can get toner transfer paper that may increase the success rate of your transfer. If you have to do multiple transfers plate witness marks on the work and in your designs to ensure consistent placement.
Ref:
https://www.amazon.com/Ximimark-20Pcs-Transfer-Electronic-Prototype/dp/B07MYXK4WJ
Actual way would...probably be something like using a few Hakko Omnivise (this is for PCBs but I reckon a similar tool exists for this sort of thing). If you've never seen, these are weighted clamps that clamp right between the two black felt pads, and usually clamp the very edge of the pcb. You could probably approximate your own with bolts, washers and nuts.
You could also use some thermomorph plastic pellets to create little brackets that you can more easily hold - I don't know how well this would work if at all.
YUFUTOL 20pcs Solid Carbide Burr Set 0.118‘’(3mm)Shank Tungsten Carbide Rotary Files Burrs with 3mm Cutting Head Diameter Fits Most Rotary Drill Die Grinder for Woodworking,Engraving,Drilling,Carving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCRD5MW/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_05YM98XPKA5JRNMP1AXJ
These two sets should take care of pretty much anything
Thank you. Right now I'm using a Chicago electric version of Dremels heavy duty rotary tool. It's not great but it will work till I get a better unit. I've used everything from an old Dremel 300 up to the high end foredoms and they all seem to work pretty good. A flex shaft and a rolling stand are essential. I use an old IV stand because it's got wheels and adjustable height. For the burrs I use cheap carbide off Amazon. Double and single cut
YUFUTOL 20pcs Solid Carbide Burr Set 0.118‘’(3mm)Shank Tungsten Carbide Rotary Files Burrs with 3mm Cutting Head Diameter Fits Most Rotary Drill Die Grinder for Woodworking,Engraving,Drilling,Carving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCRD5MW/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_05YM98XPKA5JRNMP1AXJ
I was able to pull up a few pdfs of pretty good books. Here is one:
https://www.engravingschool.com/ Art_of_Engraving.pdf
This book is also pretty highly recommended:
https://www.amazon.ca/Art-Engraving-Instructions-James-Meek/dp/9997645790
Silicone abrasive wheels like this should do the trick, a jewellery supplier near you will stock them
AmScope SM-4B Professional Binocular Stereo Zoom Microscope, WH10x Eyepieces, 7X-45X Magnification, 0.7X-4.5X Zoom Objective, Double-Arm Boom Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006QXBP6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1SV2XETYM1C37KZTP502?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It’s my first scope so I can’t compare it to anything but I really like it so far.
Only problem I’ve had has been dealing with amscope directly. I needed a different lens for a wider FOV and they had me buy the eye pieces it already came with. Now they haven’t got back to me about returning it.
Yeeaaa a ~500 bottom end is a bit wild for attempt #1 maybe 2 or 3 xD. I just found the Seiko 5 Snk789 it seems like it would work and is a price point I won't cry if I absolutely murder it.
If you mean pens like these: Amazon link
then check the link below:
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edit: if you want more photos or engraving on an other phone, dm.
Better to make a patina. It depends dramatically on the metal you use what process is best - for applying a protective coat, my favorite is an oil based paint marker. Makes it easy to protect the areas you don't want affected.
If you're working with bronze or copper, "liver of sulphur" makes a great patina. You'll not need much, and if you're still dipping your toes into the matter, getting a gel-form is best for longevity. The hue of the patina will be different depending on how long it sits in the solution - you could even submerge different portions gradually over an hour or so to get a differential patina across it.
There are also more interesting ones such as the dye-oxides for creating a patina with a specific hue, but I don't have any experience with those.