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American Frame mailed notices to customers and apparently will reply when customers bring it up, as this person did, but frustratingly, they haven't posted anything on their Web site or blog, nor have they emailed customers.
Here's someone else with the same experience: https://www.trustpilot.com/users/600c49911ef71d001bb884bc (from among https://www.trustpilot.com/review/www.americanframe.com).
American Frame, how about putting a prominent notice on your home page and blog, and emailing affected customers?
I'd also recommend using an acid-blocking tape (like this one) to line the frame and stop the offgassing from the actual wooden frame from harming the art.
Maybe you could try a shadow box frame? Not sure how to suspend in the middle. I was looking at invisible bookshelves, but I think most of them might be too long.
https://www.amazon.com/Heyxinda-Picture-Covered-Plexiglass-Mounting/dp/B0987CMGWW/ref=sr\_1\_5?crid=1PLCMJS0EKEUR&keywords=7x10%2Bshadow%2Bframe&qid=1671710730&sprefix=7x10%2Bshadow%2Bframe%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-5&th=1
Photo corners come in a bunch of sizes, but if you just go into Michael's you are likely to only find the tiny ones. For posters I like the 2" size.
I do have one of these corner clamp things that may help:
You're correct in that the 3d printed parts don't weigh much. They're very light, but yeah the MDF board does have a bit of weight to it.
I'll check out those sites you mentioned. I also did end up posting this to a woodworking subreddit as well, so maybe that may be a bit more helpful for this type of question.
I appreciate your thoughts on this!
"Mounting strips" is apparently a better name.
Here's the ones I used:
If it doesn't say archival, don't expect it be. Just purchase archival quality hinging tape, it's not that expensive and if you don't do much framing will last a long time.
You could use security hangers. most professional agencies like government buildings and hospitals, even cruise liners use these because it locks the frames against the wall with a T-key.
Or you could try a z-bar the problem with that though is that they are normally used for mirrors and they can be difficult to cut if not already the right size. Plus the bottom is technically “free” like a normal frame, however the angle holds it tight against the wall.
Frames aren’t usually built to be screwed into the wall like through the frame. Too much time and energy goes into them for them to just be ruined.
You could try these books, https://www.amazon.com/Library-Professional-Picture-Framing-Complete/dp/0938655906, I have the first three and they are a good reference, but I'd really suggest visiting a local frame shop and seeing if you can get a job working with the framer. Because there are so many different kinds of ways to frame things, learning to frame is better done as an apprentice under a master, especially if you want to eventually work with rare, fragile, or valuable items.
Congratulations to your daughter! Fortunately a lot of people like to get diplomas framed so there are usually plenty of off-the-shelf options. If you search for something like “diploma and photo mat” several options pop up that are similar concepts. Here is one from Michael’s that’s $33: https://www.michaels.com/studio-decor-document-and-photo-frame/10108887.html.
If you go that route, I’d recommend using photo corners (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UO10T8/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_MBSNNCGB8V91789QB0N4 & they’re also sold at art supply stores) instead of taping or gluing the diploma down at all. That way you always have the option of removing it and getting it framed differently in the future.
Here you go.link
I usually glue them up, then use a nailer. I get better results using a strap clamp than with the tape method.
As for dealing with the hole from the brad nail, I usually just stick mix some sawdust and glue. But you can use a gouge chisel to lift the wood up, nail it, then glue it back down.
I see, thanks for all the info! Random question since you seem to know what you are talk about - if for any reason I use this tape (linked below) directly on top of my poster, would it cause damage? Or would I be able to remove it seamlessly if I wanted to?
JSY Tape, self-Adhesive Acid-Free Tape (1 inch x 180 feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C2WCHZD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_JJZ6496ACD2TWMY5PPD2
You could probably use those ook monkey hooks. They’re small and a matte silver. I bet you wouldn’t even notice them.
OOK 591821 Monkey Hook, Picture Hanger, Mirror Hanging for Drywall, Hangs up to 35 Pounds, Steel (10 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XGT2N7R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RRYPHMY71476EFYYRBAB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PG5LVXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_AE7KZY0XYBWB789J9SJ2
This is what I'm talking about then. Amazon's selection isn't as great as you'd think it is, but that's the general idea. Idk if that link will work.
Get at least one good corner vise. We use older versions of this one.
Also, when you get mat board, rip off some from the scrap and attach it to the pieces that move. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve crunched a frame because there was no padding and the frame was soft wood.
I use this one at the link below along with a good straight edge. these tools can be re-sharpened and used over and over. https://www.amazon.com/Fletcher-05-111-Scoremate-Plastic-Cutter/dp/B000LNJYNA
I've used these, and the larger ones can hold up to 50 lbs.
And it leaves a very small hole, you'd never know it was there.
https://www.amazon.com/Monkey-Hook-Picture-Hanger-Office/dp/B001KVMNPI
Hey, looks great! When I take photos of finished work I use a google app called Photoscan. It can capture images with little or no glare. Try it!
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.photos.scanner&hl=en_US
Oh thanks, the corners idea sounds like the right one for me! I found these:
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Is that the right product? By the way the print is 18x24, so I wasn't sure what size corners I need. They seem to come in 1/2", 1.5" and 3", maybe other sizes too but definitely those sizes. Reviewers on the 1/2" mention that it's a little small for any print larger than 8.5" x 11", so I'm thinking the 1.5" would be right for me? I'm also wondering now, if I bought the right size mat? My mat has exactly an 18x24 opening, do I need to get a new mat with a slightly smaller opening so that the print is a little bit bigger than the opening, so there's room for the corners to stick to the mat and so forth, or am I good with this size mat?
Thank you. Do you know if this particular model is actually good? When I see items on Amazon that have so many reviews and are 4.5 Stars oh, I'm always a little skeptical. They also have the "advanced" model for a few pennies more, and it looks more like what I've seen on Home Depot and other sites.
Any comment on either of these models or if there's something else that might be good? Just want to make sure I'm not wasting my money on something that is hyped but turns out to be a piece of crap.
Thanks!