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/u/Calebminear - I have both of these cameras, and they are both terrific - but for different purposes.
I use the GH4 when I want to shoot video and stills, when I need fast video autofocus, when I want a pre-cooked color profile, when I need slow motion, when I might need to crop in post or when I don't want to be bothered with external batteries.
That said, the BMPCC's 13+ stops of DR and 10-bit 4:2:2/12-bit RAW color palette give it a "film like" look that a 12 stop (with V-LOG) 8-bit 4:2:0 camera can't match.
I use the BMPCC when I have more time for setups, when I want more dynamic range or when I have the time and inclination to grade
After owning these cameras for a few years, I find that I choose the GH4 more often because it saves me so much time.
Now that I have solved my BMPCC battery challenge with an inexpensive Sony L battery adapter, however, I may use it more.
Hope that's helpful and best of luck with your decision!
You will need to use the HDMI cable to get live video from a GH4. With that you'll need a video capture device. I've been very happy with this one and have used it with GH4 and GH5.
The USB port on the GH4 does not output video. It is used for accessing the video files stored on the SD card.
The GH4 doesn't work with the newest software that Panasonic has for monitoring and controlling the camera.
This one has worked well with GH4/OBS. I purchased a much longer male to male usb cord. Also make sure to get the proper mini hdmi to hdmi adaptor
That lens is an insanely good value. It's more than 80% as good as the 12-35, but only 30% of the price. It's also ridiculously small and light. You'll only be upset with it if you are expecting a really shallow DoF or if you don't want to push your ISO up an extra stop.
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-VARIO-F3-5-5-6-II-Interchangeable/dp/B00B7FOVAM
It should work. I hooked up a Paralinx wireless HDMI transmitter and fed it to a BMD 1 M/E switcher. Keep in mind all your cameras need to be the same resolution and frame rate. This spreadsheet I found a while ago tells you what the HDMI output is which isn't always what you send the recording setting to.
Unfortunate, that's what I thought when it was so difficult to find. One more question, so this mount here would work to put a f mount lens like those used on the D7100 to the Panasonic MFTs? https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Lens-Mount-Adapter-Mirrorless/dp/B003G49V70
Just a heads up, there are no Nikon to M4/3 adapters (including the Metabones) with an electronic connection to the camera and so you won't have auto-focus or electronic aperture control with your lenses. However the Metabones and a few cheaper adapters have an aperture ring that will allow you to manually adjust aperture (focus will have to be done manually on the lens). This Novoflex adapter is considerably cheaper than Metabones and has some decent reviews, though I've never used it personally. For older fully manual Nikon lenses a super cheap adapter like this Fotasy will work just fine. Good luck!
I just recently bought the vs-2 fine hd. It's... decent. It's just good to have a portable, larger, external monitor. But if you're in-doors and have a spare computer monitor you can plug into, that'd probably be better, since the gh4 itself already has peaking available.
The color accuracy of the monitor, I really have no idea how to tell. The clarity of the monitor is OK. It's LCD, so take that as you will. Also, the vs-2 does NOT come with an AC power cable, it comes with a d-tap power ADAPTER. So you either need to buy a separate power supply or already own a d-tap power breakout.
I'm fine with my purchase and will continue to use it. It's gonna be my main viewfinder for my rig, while i keep the gh4 viewfinder on info display mode. I was looking at the smallHD focus, which is about an additional 400-500 dollars more, and I just wasn't ready to make that investment. I'd say if you're already in that tier to drop $1k on an external monitor, you're probably shooting with multiple cameras anyways so having a vs-2 on your secondary or tertiary camera is probably gonna be your reality anyways.
tl;dr, I'd say go for it. Just don't forget to buy a power supply and a cage to bolt it on to.
HDMI to RCA requires an active converter which means it needs its own power source. I am wondering why SDI? Some sort of old-school SD monitor? Also, the GH4 can output analog to RCA with this cable.
Huh. That sucks. I guess that would make sense though. I am using a Beachtek DXA Micro-Pro at the moment and am really happy with it, so I don't need this but was interested if it was going to be compatible.
The "manufacturer" is answering on Amazon that this unit does work with the GH4, fwiw.
What are your thoughts on this? http://m.ebay.ie/itm/DSLR-Camera-Cage-With-Top-Handle-Grip-For-Camera-Rig-Panasonic-Lumix-GH3-GH4-FK-/332067244123?nav=SEARCH
And this -
Smallrig® Camera HDMI Protector for Cinema Cameras, Odyssey 7Q - 1693 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01B1FPRFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ThSByb6WR9Y47
Used a fotodiox led light OK not great. Light is good not great, and you really have to mess with the sync with slow motion or you get moving lines.
Trying to remember what softbox I used. I think it was a tall skinny one.
ISO was at the lowest setting.
Aperture was pretty wide open as I couldn't use a lot of light so the colored leds would show. Getting focus was a challenge, but fun.
No problem ,man. You gotta start somewhere and I like the fact that you are not only asking for criticism but you are positive about it and are taking it for what it is. A lot of people get offended bc they think the stuff they do is the best ever.
The Rokinons, in my experience, are not expensive. I think they have some literal Pro lenses that are really, really expensive, but the one I got is the cheapest they make bc it's the micro 4/3 version for our GH4.
Like I said, I got that Used for $169 and it is amazing. It has a literal foot and meter marker on the lens itself so if you measure the exact distance from your subject you can just dial it in on the lens and boom.
ETA: The Rokinon is also T 1.5, so it allows much, much more light into the camera, so you can use it in low-light situations with relative ease, so that is a BIG plus. In fact, if I had to do it over again I probably just would have bought the set of Rokinons that they sell in 12, 35, 50, and 85mm. I like this one that much and I really don't use it that often.
Also this one is 20 bucks cheaper? What is the difference in this one and the one above? http://www.amazon.com/Metabones-Nikon-Micro-Thirds-Booster/dp/B011GF2Q7M?ie=UTF8&keywords=metabones%20speed%20booster&qid=1462780426&ref_=sr_1_10&sr=8-10
I'm using a 3-piece Tiffen set with fixed stops (0.6, 0.9, 1.2) and can simply stack them using their threads if needed. Today I added the 0.6 to the 1.2 and was able to shoot in extremely bright sunlight at below f/2 because I needed the background to be well out of focus. Works like a charm.
edit: This one. You should buy the filter that fits your largest lens (I use 72mm, but 77mm might be best for you to standardize with), and then buy step-up rings (and corresponding lens caps) to adapt your other lenses to the filters.
Yup, just be aware that you can pick up the occasional flare or reflection from the added glass elements. Otherwise each of those filters has threads on both sides of the ring, so they can be attached to one another just like they attach to the lens.
I'd also pick up a lens pen while you're at it, because it's very easy to put an accidental fingerprint on the filters while handling them and they can get a little dusty even in the pouch that comes with the kit.
Sure! i used this one the fluid head is really nice and build as well http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Professional-Camcorder-Tripod-FC270A/dp/B003UOMWOK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458536372&sr=8-1&keywords=fancier+studio+tripod
First thing you should do is check your GH4's system frequency. It might be set to 24hz, if so then change it to 60hz. If that doesn't help, I'm using this one and it handles many resolutions at various frame rates. I use it in 1080@60 and it works great. A bit of rolling shutter effect, but it doesn't show up in the recording. A great little display for $130.
Film City rigs are decent for their price. I had one a few years ago and then upgraded to a VariZoom rig.
This one looks promising:
Neewer Portable FilmMaker System With Camera/Camcorder Mount Slider, Soft Rubber Shoulder Pad and Dual-hand Handgrip For All DSLR Video Cameras and DV Camcorders https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GTMBA7K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_iazPwbWHDGHJH
It's a Transcend 64GB UHS Class 3 SD card off Amazon.
I'll have to look through the settings. This has been happening even after I reverted all settings to defaults and only changed the system frequency and file type though.
I bought the RJ speed booster for my Nikon lenses. TBH I haven't used it extensively but I also haven't experienced any negative issues to speak of.
I use the Transcend 128GB cards. They are pretty cheap, just $70 on Amazon. They work absolutely perfectly with the GH4 in all of the different photo and video modes. The SanDisk Extreme Pro you mention should work just as well, but they cost a lot more money.
Whether or not they last the length of the battery depends on many factors. If you record at 200Mbps and conserve power, you might be able to fill the memory card before the battery dies. In my experience recording 4K with the 128GB cards, the battery almost always dies first. That's why I have the DC coupler. If I'm recording video from a single spot near a power outlet, I can record until the memory card is full.
These are Canon EF lenses I'm assuming? If they are FD lenses, they are full manual, and you can use any old dumb adapter with them. If they are EF lenses, you are going to need an adapter that supports the electronic aperture control to change it. So yes, the metabones one supports electronic aperture.
http://www.metabones.com/products/details/MB_EF-m43-BM1
This one does not
http://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-AMEF-Thirds-System-Adapter/dp/B003150B6O
One trick I know some people do is they use a Canon camera to change the aperture of the lens. Then they move the lens over to a simple adapter.
I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQ9CQ50/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have had no issues with it, other than a small screw the I had to fix because it came lose from so much use.
Still don't see the need for an expensive focal reducer, it's not high tech gear.
I would suggest having both a focal reducer and a regular adapter so you can get twice as much out of your lenses.
Transcend 64GB. 50 bucks cheaper than the SanDisk. I have both cards, the Transcend works no problem.
Two suggestions:
- Better follow-focus: I tried the one you're buying and it did not feel solid. The cheapest, good FF I found is this one: http://www.amazon.com/upgrade-DP500IIS-Rlease-dampen-follow/dp/B00EAJK2CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410786393&sr=8-1&keywords=fotga+dp500ii
Even though it's under $200, I'd put it up against any FF at any price for general use.
- What do you want to accomplish with the external monitor? It's resolution is so low and it's color so bad that you're better off with the built-in flip screen. It's going to be nearly useless for focusing. Personally, if I couldn't squeeze the SmallHD 7 into my budget, I'd either wait or maybe get the SmallHD 4