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Looks like you’ve covered all of the most important parts. If you’d like to add more polish to your setup, you could install one of those in-wall cable management systems to hide any cables dangling behind the TV without doing any rewiring.
Lots of companies make them. They range in price from $20-80. Here’s one for $20:
Echogear White in-Wall Cable Management Kit - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B081QPF19F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_BBq9Fb6NTARVV
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B5ZQK9BZ
You wouldn't need to do eARC if you do the second scenario. If what I have in mind is correct I think this works for you:
PC --> Splitter.
Splitter port 1 --> TV
Splitter port 2 --> monitor
TV (eARC port) --> back to receiver
***** or, this is a little cleaner *****
PC --> Splitter
Splitter port 1 --> Receiver --> TV
Splitter port 2 --> Monitor
You're best off spending the money to get a 4K at 60fps HDBaseT HDMI Video extender like this https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Single-CAT5e-RS-232-Remote/dp/B07BC83WPM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2ILMMDXMSN2PL&keywords=orei%2BKVM&qid=1664747467&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjU3IiwicXNhIjoiMC45MiIsInFzcCI6IjAuOTIifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=orei%2Bkvm%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-3&th=1
Plus it will extend your mouse via USB
Might look at something like this if you need to buy a receiver as well. https://www.amazon.com/Debut-OW4-2-Wall-Speakers-Black/dp/B07B4LXZKJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=FN76UB5YNYS&keywords=elac%2Bdebut%2B2.0%2Bow4.2&qid=1663951821&sprefix=Elac%2Bdebut%2Bow%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-3&th=1
You need this one to connect the projector and sound from PS4
Nope! The only way that could ever happen is if the entire ecosystem was USB-C and could act like a chain, but that is only on newer computer monitors. I've not seen that on any TV's yet. Your TV only uses a USB-A to allow you to connect storage drives to it to watch or listen to content, but your Firestick connected via the HDMI port will never know about it.
There's other ways though: VLC can detect DLNA media servers on a network, meaning that if you have a computer or a network-attached storage (NAS) in the household running a DLNA server on it, VLC will see it and can stream the content from it.
I've not really messed with DLNA server software for the PC, but if you have an old Android phone you're not using, you could use that as a DLNA server for your household. The app I use on my phone is DLNA Server.
If you have a NAS, it will likely have a built-in DLNA server as well. Mine is an old Western Digital EX4100, but I'm sure just about any retail brand out there will have it.
My first thought is suggesting an HDMI Matrix. There are very inexpensive 6x2 (6 inputs 2 outputs) devices on Amazon but it gets a bit expensive after that.
No problem. Looking back at your post it seems that you want to send audio from the TV to the receiver. In that case you may be better off with something like this.
This will let you send audio via optical from tv to receiver. With the HDMI extender it may not work and depends on if the extender and your tv both support Audio Return Channel (ARC).
You can send audio and video via HDMI over the CAT6 cable. You will need to buy an HDMI extender unit, similar to this one.
I haven’t actually used this specific product ever so be sure to read reviews/shop around. Monoprice might have something cheaper also b
Just found this one too, I think it would be a better option
Thank you, Do you think this one would work for me? https://www.amazon.com.mx/Monoprice-Selector-altavoces-6-Channel-Applicable/dp/B005E2YI7A/ref=asc_df_B005E2YI7A/?tag=glemobshopmx-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=487136429697&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12548964625121631365&hvpone=&h...
We did add large throw rugs, didn't change that much. I remember asking my buddy about the sound quality - he said, "it sounds intense", and he was right, it was edgy. This house (and new room HT) room has Berber carpet, that does work as advertised with stains, etc.
There's a lot out there as far as sound panels, bass traps; found this link for 12x12 ceilings titles:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VH6KDY8/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Not a receiver, but I lost a Cisco ASA firewall to a lightning strike once, the coax link was not plugged into the surge protector.
Generally there are at least minor protections in place against a power-surge. It's strange to think that only HDMI ports on your AVR were affected, or that you can still hear audio at all. Strange things happen during a surge though, and if you weren't before, I would invest in a good surge protector for your next AVR and all the rest of your equipment (TV, players, servers, etc) if you sadly can't rescue this one. I personally recommend Tripp Lite as a brand.
I was having the same issue with my Xbox X. And doing more research Using a headset adapter improved the feed back 100%
Stereo Headset Adapter Only for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091C6L4P5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Well right now it was a FireStick hooked in and then projected out to a screen. But to make it fit I needed it far enough away so that it could be heard.
Ok here’s what I’m doing:
- 2 zone receiver for the theater room and room 1.
- one of these for each of the other two rooms (rewire required): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FQG6CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That should hopefully solve this setup!
Budget version that I have and love Govee WiFi TV LED Backlights with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LVPWQQP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Expensive but more accurate version is Philips Hue Play Sync box plus hub and lights
O okay. You need some sort of speaker switching device for each speaker the signal would go either to the set of speakers in your living room or to the set of speakers in the basement. Something like this maybe: https://www.amazon.ca/Channel-Speaker-Selector-Switch-Distribution/dp/B07L9384KH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Speaker+Selector&qid=1615860150&sr=8-3
Never used one so cant say for sure if any good. Length of speaker runs to basement might be an issue. Other thing is calibrating your speaker setup (e.g. room calibration).would require you to be able to save mutiple cailbrations. One for each speaker set. I dont think my reciever can do that. You would need to switch every time you went downstairs or back up stairs.
I think i would drill a hole into the wall and install low voltage box. Terminate your wires into a speaker wall plate. Then run new wire from the speaker plate to your receiver.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077W2KN5D?ref=detail_main_image_block_ivx_share
That’s a nice use of a small space but the cable management or “lack of it” would drive my OCD insane. Have you thought about using some sort of PVC trunking to hide the cables? I used D-Line in my house to better manage the cabling. https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B079WS71X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FPKB360FA1ESW8VQ7QJT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I solved the problem with a this HDMI splitter 4K HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter, avedio links 1080P HDMI to HDMI Audio Converter + Optical Toslink SPDIF + RCA L/R Stereo Analog Audio, HDMI Audio Adapter for Chromecast, Fire Stick,Blu-Ray Player, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XJITK7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_97YH21KAMHMQX3M7CE3H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I purchased this from Amazon. DataComm Electronics 50-6623-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_lFR4FbHGN72D5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They claim that you can run low voltage wires ie. Cat5, HDMI, together. I’ve read the questions/answers section & no one has claimed to experience interference. The attachment from Crutchfield’s learning center is saying to not run power with you audio & video cables,
I used the echo gear kits in my Master Bedroom Setup and My living room, they have a soundbar version that has an extra outlet.
Here is the soundbar version
Doesn’t matter what receiver you have with an enclosed space like that. You need a way to get the heat out. What about changing the doors with something that has mesh on the bottom so air can escape?
I cut a wall on the side of my enclosed media console and installed this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQO/ could work for you ceiling exhaust.
You have a passive sub. I just dealt with this when I went to put a sub on the wall of my basement. You need an amp like this to power it. Connect your receiver to the amp and the amp to the sub. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VHG2LR9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_TwbEFbD416BBQ
If you ever decide to do that to another tv, i highly recommend this instead -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4CY9GZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l7SxFb2E49DNP
Designed specifically for TVs, you can use your smartphone as the remote and I got it for only $11