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That's surging. Your carburetor is most likely dirty, and restricted in the tiny little passages, so it's not providing enough fuel.
It could also be the fuel filter, but it's usually the carb. You can disassemble it and clean it carefully. Or look up the cost of an aftermarket replacement carb, they are sometimes around $20 or so on Amazon.
One example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WS8KQ72/
You could just buy the same Deere one for $41.91, here:
https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-NiCd-Battery-Charger-TY26702.html
But the Deere one is just a Alemite 340913 with different labels, which you can get on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Alemite-Battery-Charger-Batteries-Cordless/dp/B009K4ZYMG
That's great, and a lucky fix! I have had no success with Seafoam cleaning out dirty carbs, unfortunately. But other folks have had it work for them, so apparently sometimes it can do the trick.
To help avoid dirty carburetor problems, especially if using gas with ethanol (which is all that's available around here), I add stabilizer to the gas, every time I fill my gas can. Even if should be used, like mid-summer. To me, using it every time is easy, and cheap insurance.
And I add a $5 inline fuel shutoff valve to my machines with accessible fuel lines. Before their off-season, I close the fuel shutoff with the engine running, and let it run until it dies. This gets most of the gas out of the carburetor bowl, so there is less fuel in there to degrade. This is especially helpful on things that are important, and will sit around for a while. Like a generator, or snowblower.
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-698183-Shut-Off-Selected/dp/B0038U3JKM
Do make sure of the proper kit for your tractor. But you can convert from their easy change system, back to a normal filter, so you can do conventional oil & filter changes.
This is one Deere kit for converting back to the normal style, apparently. But you'd have to check whether it's the proper one for your machine.
https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Conversion-AM131611-MIU13767/dp/B08464YH47
Congrats on the new tractor!
The light bulbs to fit the headlights is an 881 bulb. I used these LED bulbs from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PMBMVZF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_99QUFb4NDYH31?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The lights mounted on the blower are again from Amazon. I fabricated the brackets to mount them there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY3YLCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_M.QUFbZB4VJW0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So, I pulled the whole carb off, and I did find the number. Apparently these carbs are sort of common but the company has changed hands a few times, so it was actually kind of a pain to find the refurb. kit.
I did find it though. It’s a “796137” carburetor repair kit.
It’s exactly what I need.
Thanks for the info. I probably would’ve taken a while before finding that.
The deck was damaged because you drove it into something? Like the deck caught on a tree as you were driving past?
Or it caught in a dip and got stuck while going through a dip or bump in the yard?
If it got caught in a dip, I guess you could try something like making/buying skids for the front of the deck? To help the deck ride over things, rather than getting stuck on them. I'm picturing something like this, though these are used on snowblowers:
https://www.amazon.com/ARMORskids-Heavy-Blower-Shoes-spacing/dp/B019KV29UI
And I assume your anti-scalp wheel heights are set correctly?
Unplugging at least + is a good start, and will definitely help. But lead-acid batteries will self-discharge some even from just sitting around.
Better would be to remove the battery from the tractor, bring it inside, and put it on an inexpensive battery maintainer for the winter, which will keep it charged. Discharged batteries degrade more quickly, so it's more than just needing to jump-start the tractor in the spring.
If there are windows in the shed, you have other options too. I got a solar battery maintainer, for my unpowered shed. I put it in the window of the shed, and leave it connected to the tractor battery for the winter. I installed the included quick-disconnect connector to the battery, so I just plug in the solar panel in the fall, and unplug it in the spring. And the tractor is ready to go.
This is the 5W version (currently $20 in the US), I bought the 10W version (currently $30). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015ZGDYII/
One example of a plug-in battery maintainer ($21 USD): https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP00205A-Automatic-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B06XWDZ2KQ
Removing the battery is hardly the end of the world, to bring it inside for the fall. But honestly, it is more work than simply plugging in the solar panel's cable :) My solar panel also keeps another 12V car battery charged, in the shed. That 12V battery runs LED lighting, to make the shed easier to work in.
We found out the thread ends are metric M8 studs. We're considering just getting something like this to replace the ends. They don't appear to be quick disconnect, and that's not ideal, but it's better than nothing.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Thread-Handle-Fitting/dp/B07CMXK29L/
I would definitely be putting on chains and weight. It's good to know that some of the stuff is interchangeable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H3FJKJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_FFR8J1ZVNXH6ZKM1P829
I found this but I'm not sure if it can fit my model. I did see people saying it fits any of the 100s but if the mount is pretty simple since it manual I wondered if it can fit the 200s?
Wow, impressive! Is that stock lighting?
Different tractor brand, but I recently added some 18W Nilight floodlights, I'm very impressed by them. I used their magnetic mount kit, which let me just stick them to a suitable area at the front of the machine.
The dumb questions are the ones we don't ask. The socket set should come with a ratchet handle, which is what the sockets attach to. The ratchet handle is the hand tool portion.
Something along these lines, for instance. This was just the first inexpensive set to come up on Amazon.
At least stabilize the fuel that's in there. Stir it around if possible. I would then run the engine for at least 15 minutes to draw the stabilized gas into the carb.
I've installed a fuel shutoff valve (like https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-698183-Shut-Off-Selected/dp/B0038U3JKM/ ) on the line from the tank. I don't run the tanks dry. I just close that shutoff while the engine is running, and wait the minute or so until the engine stalls, to get the gas out of the carburetor.
Thanks Fred - great idea. Is this the one you used? https://smile.amazon.com/Nilight-Wiring-Harness-Switch-Warranty/dp/B071ZPX32N/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=nilight+wiring+harness&qid=1635797024&qsid=136-4945702-9871945&sr=8-4&sres=B074GWMRGD%2CB071ZPX32N%2CB073TYH2VN%2CB071KL52QJ%2CB073XMM3T5%2CB074GYNJ85%2CB08B7QRWTF%2CB073TYDKMW%2CB076C5HV59%2CB08GYGJCS5%2CB08CGSH7TJ%2CB073TYH14Q%2CB072M1CXQB%2CB074GXRBJG%2CB076C4MXR1%2CB081L91WS5
Agreed that jumper cables and an inexpensive charger are both very good investments.
But I can't agree that a multimeter is a waste of money. There are an awful lot of times they are helpful around the house, including being able to actually know the condition of something (like the battery), vs having to kind of guess. Just because a charge finishes doesn't guarantee that the battery is still holding voltage, etc.
You can get one for as little as $10 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Plusivo-Digital-Multimeter-Measuring-Resistance/dp/B086Q4PKYT
If feasible, I'd suggest getting all 3, jumper cables, a basic charger (I have a Battery Tender Jr, among others), and a basic multimeter.
My preference would be the X350. It should be built better, and has a better transmission (K46 vs TL200). Note that both are still lawn tractors, and the K46 in the X350 is still considered a light-duty, lawn tractor transmission. But it's better than the TL200 in the S130.
Note that you can usually buy conversion kits to change from the 30-second oil change, back to a conventional oil filter setup. Allowing less-expensive, and more-complete oil changes. So that you're changing all of the oil, vs more like 1/2 the oil, with the 30-second system. One example, though you'd have to find a kit for the S130: https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Conversion-AM131611-MIU13767/dp/B08464YH47
Is your property flat? Hills are tough on lawn tractor transmissions, and may reduce the tranny lifespan.
Yup. And you can get a conversion kit to allow doing normal changes. Using a normal filter, and your choice of oil. Cheaper per oil-change, and you also change all of the oil each time, which is better for the engine.
One example: https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Conversion-AM131611-MIU13767/dp/B08464YH47/
There is a kit to convert from the quick oil change, to a standard and oil filter.
Something like this, but do some reading and make sure that what you buy fits your engine. This listing does not mention S130.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08464YH47/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_K45QSKKS4XNX3EKYVT32
When I was bagging my leaves, I found that using my mulching blades chopped the leaves into smaller pieces, so that more fit in the bags. That helped some, at least.
You can get giant bags that attach to your bagger, and get dragged around behind the tractor, replacing the normal bags. One example: https://www.amazon.com/Lawn-Tractor-Leaf-Bag/dp/B008R3U3DQ
That could reduce how often you have to empty it. Though probably not a great solution if you need to back up.
Depending budget, and how much you're dealing with, there are also tow-behind powered baggers, like the Trac Vac, or the Cyclone Rake. Those are quite a bit more expensive, but the larger ones will hold much more than a typical bagger, and they help suck the leaves up the chute.
yes, I ended up putting 4 lights on two forward two backwards so I have two negative wires and two position wires they have a good wiring diagram on their pictures, and this is the harness I bought.
Very nice! My tractor is a different brand, but I recently changed over from 1156 incadescents to LEDs. They draw about 3A less current (for the pair), and they are far brighter than the incandescents.
They're a great, inexpensive upgrade.
A few people on a forum changed their sets (different brands) to these: https://www.atwoods.com/beco-universal-tractor-seat-with-adjustable-suspension.html
They seem very happy with them, and at $90, they're much cheaper than the ~$500 mentioned below. The whole seat slides vertically, it doesn't just pivot with springs at the back (like mine), so it's more effective at absorbing the hits.
Someone else added a ~$30 foam pad on the seat, he's been happy with it. It's certain cheap and simple (no installation). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014F18ZGU/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A2UOOCM96M7E3P&psc=1