If you want a guide to getting this going, you can always start with the Gingery books.
https://smile.amazon.com/Build-Your-Metalworking-Shop-Scrap/dp/0960433082/
The first book goes over making a foundry and starting to cast metal parts, the second book is how to build a metal lathe using the foundry from the first book. The whole series is a way to start from scrap metal and pluck and end up with a metal shop.
From what I can see, you are only missing the tooling, and maybe a handle that threads into the chrome cap to lock the toolpost in place. A bolt with the correct thread would work in place of a proper handle if you can't find one.
Cheap tooling, guessing 1/4 inch would work based on the size.
https://www.amazon.com/TOOLING-CARBIDE-TIPPED-CUTTER-CUTTING/dp/B07BVFH59P/ref=sr\_1\_5?keywords=Metal+Lathe+Cutting+Tools&qid=1654538588&sr=8-5
Rivet is a press-fit. You need rubber that is meant to handle and move paper products...google "hp print rollers" 'til you find the one.
https://www.amazon.com/AltruPrint-5200-RK-DLX-AP-LaserJet-Transfer-Rollers/dp/B07D2WM85S
Give FreeCAD a try - https://www.freecadweb.org/ - functionally similar to the industry versions.
Also, you can check out this site - https://academy.titansofcnc.com/ - really cool tutorials on basic modeling and CAM programming.
I think Fusion 360 has a nice free for education option too.
I have a set of mitutoyo for my work, but for knock around and loaners I got these from amazon and I’ve been pretty happy with them.
https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ
I would first ask what your chips are made of and whether they're ferrous/magnetic.
If yes, I have one like this, I think the brand of mine is "Slugger" amazon link to Baleigh model
I've been very happy with it when removing steel chips, doesn't work worth a shit for brass, plastic and most stainless though...
Sorry lol, I meant like for use with a wrench like this.
I use these for woodworking: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have no idea how accurate they are, but they're good enough for wood working.
With woodworking, unless your running machine guided tools, the slop of the tool is going to be magnitudes more than any moderately accurate caliper.
We have a label maker already, which is nice. i was thinking along the plastic bin line, but we also want some way to keep the tools locked up. I was thinking of using something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OI545LI/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00OI545LI&pd_rd_wg=uEbnw&pd_rd_r=HBTMDWR2GNERAS781002&pd_rd_w=x2uE2
As a tooling/fixture guy at a large aerospace manufacturer, this is my bible (besides the machinists handbook of course)
Handbook of Jig and Fixture Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/0872633659/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K4yjAbZYVAMCR
I read it from front to back and learned some invaluable lessons from it...
Once you have the fundamentals in your mind it’s all about using your own creativity and skills to effectively apply them to your jobs
Edit: Sidenote.... Carr lane is also a fantastic resource... even their catalog has some awesome stuff in it... you can use their hardware along with your own fixtures for all kinds of shit
So I'm not a machinist, just a lurker here but this is something I know about so I'll give my 2 cents. I sold these for several years and this is by far the best bit for drilling granite it's a dry bit and will work just fine that way or you can use water. It's designed for angle grinder use so it's good up to 12K rpm, and honestly the faster the better. The Alpha rep told me this, helps you get through the piece faster and keep the bit cool. Now it's designed for 1-1/4" countertops so maybe give it a cool off period after an 1" or so on your 3" surface plate, water will also help keep it cool. Feed pressure will be minimal as well as pushing too hard will glaze the diamonds and temper the matrix they are suspended in, they are designed to slough off and reveal the next layer of diamonds so getting it too hot will prevent that. It's 5/8-11 so you will need an adapter of some sort no doubt. Don't know if this helps or not.
Yeah, the butcher block top is pretty great. I also separately bought a pair of these actual butcher blocks, that look similar, to add shelves to this table. I sprayed polyurethane on them, since for their intended use in a kitchen, you just leave the wood bare and apply mineral oil. For the upper shelf, I had to saw off the corners, and rip the edges, so it would fit to slide in diagonally. For the bottom one, I just drilled four holes. The castors I added hold it in place. (Those castors are lower profile than the ones the company offers with the table; I didn't want to raise it so much.)
You could try a brake cylinder hone. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-10400-3-Stone-Disc-Brake/dp/B000P0VT3C/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31x6YXkk7OL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=CNFYAB3RJCH00NEPCR2G
The other idea would be a gun drill. Single cutter, a lot of oil under great pressure.
Thanks for the suggestion. You think something like this would work?
It may technically be overkill, but it'll definitely do the job and isn't that expensive. I saw you asked where to find speeds/feeds elsewhere, if you have an android phone this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pluckedstudios.machcalcpro is a pretty great app that I've been using. I know there are some for iPhone's too but I have no experience there.