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Still have a long way to go but it felt like a serious accomplishment to finally get this headlight/blinker unit installed in the stock housing.
Though it looks really cool, I wouldn’t wish this install on my worst enemy as the stupid clips inside the stock housing took me over an hour to get in properly.
Other accomplishments today include getting the control relay and mirrors installed as well as measurements taken and firm plans made for the battery box.
Everything is coming along nicely and I’ll be sure to get more pictures up as things move forward.
BTW, here’s the headlight: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CYMD1ZW/
Here’s the headlight and please don’t laugh at my wiring diagram, it worked for me and I’m not skilled or trained in any of this kind of stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Caliper-Motorsports-Parts-Blitz/dp/B06WLN471R
$13 for a whole new assembly, and if your asking what to do about melted pads, I wouldn't reccomend replacing pads at your experience level.
Sunf tires on Amazon SunF. They last a long time and 6 ply. Free shipping
sunf tireshttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JW5V5W4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ABH1YKX4FKG1YG7V0QDY
I used these replacement bulbs. Unfortunately, I’ve had 2 burn out on me already, but reading reviews, it seems normal for these to go through a few before you get one that sticks.
AUTOVIC For Honda Fourtrax TRX 300 Super White 80w CREE Led Headlight Bulbs 1988-2000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9X5PL3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KZ1KVK2JSRB3A8ARGVE6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: you may have to dremel out the opening for the light in the headlight housing. It seems the newer ones are all set and the opening is plenty large enough. The older ones seem to need the dremel.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9J7PB9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
just order...youll thank me later
You need a 12v turn signal relay:
And for the break light you'll need a new break lever with a pressure switch mounted in it:
Why don't you order https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z1FKVKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_C4JB1CTZC9CSS1V6W982?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 . I had the same problem with an old pressure washer. Spend over 2 hours trying different things. Once I got this in the mail, it took five minutes. It's worth the 12 bucks
Forgot to link this,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARJEHUW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Saves you space on your handle bars as your mirror threads into it and doesn't need its own clamp.
I have key ignition on my trailmaster with a full light/battery hook up. The ignition is two position so just on/off. It's wired in: coil-->recifier-->ignition-->sparkplug/battery and all the rest. This way both the ignition switch and kill switch function to shut the bike down, but you can't start it without turning the key because it cuts the circuit to the sparkplug.
This is the ignition I have, but honestly it's quite flimsy. The little trapdoor has already come off and I'll be replacing it soon as I get around to it.
This regulator, also put a 1000uF capacitor inline with the output wire. But I don't have a battery connected yet (although I have tested it with one- and youth would not need the cap if using a battery).
12V Voltage Regulator Rectifier 4 Wires for GY6 125cc 150cc ATV Dirt Bike Go Kart Moped and Scooter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J1XLHC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WRXR250ZX0T6HGR8D11H
That's the same brake that I linked you to in my other reply.
BTW, if you ever need to pull the lid off the master cylinder it uses JIS screws and not phillips. They'll strip really easily with a phillips screwdriver but come right out with a JIS one. A set of JIS drivers aren't very expensive on Amazon. They're handy to have too.
I have these and they've worked great so far: https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-JISPH1-Japanese-Standard-Screws/dp/B07DPSDQMD/
Throttle cables for minibikes are fairly universal. Find out what length you need and go from there. Use a piece of string and route it how you plan on running the throttle cable (don't leave it hanging like it is in the pic). Zip ties are your friend.
If you want to go with a whole throttle assembly, something like this would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Handle-HandleBar-Taotao-Apollo/dp/B08MPT5B63/
It's cheap and will get the job done. I would be sure to measure how long of a cable you need before buying just to be sure though.
Good luck, I've only had mine for a few months as well. PETG was easy once I... Upgraded my print bed to glass, gave it a minimum spritz of Elmer's purple spray, raised the print bed temp to 70c, and raised the print temp to 245C.... Had to sacrifice my original flexible print bed but got it done! GOOD LUCK!!!
I used an Ender Pro 3 with Stronghero3D 3D Printing PETG Filament Red 1.75mm Net Weight 1KG Accuracy +/-0.03mm
I just finished putting a Predator 212 in my CT100u yesterday.
If you care, this fuel tank bolts right into the mounts on the Predator and is way cleaner than the smooshed stock tank. Would look great with your paint job:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SB1RMF8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also, have you ridden yours yet? Mine scares the hell out of me. Lol..
Not sure, but you might have to build your own without knowing how yours was originally set up. But, you will need this (double check if the axle hole is the right size for your axle) Then you can use a very large fender washer, bend it like a taco and put it over the rear part of the slide.
I was going to say it's doubtful you were actually hitting those speeds if running the stock cam and valve springs. I believe your speed for sure now. The one calculator I've used shows you're hitting somewhere around 6800rpm.
You can get tachs for a bit over $20 on Amazon. They're the induction style and you just need to wrap one wire around the plug boot. They work well and it's kind of fun seeing the RPM you're pulling.
I want to get one of the big tire bikes and leave it that way. They make getting higher top speeds so much easier. I went down to a 6" rear wheel with a 15" tire on my CT200U so I could easily do a hydraulic disc setup.
Edit: This is the tach I'm running... https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Maintenance-Tachometer-Motorcycles-Lawnmowers/dp/B07DZB57H5/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=tach%2Fhour+meter&qid=1591065370&sr=8-4
I doubt it's the most accurate thing out there, but it gives you a good idea of the rpm's you're pulling. Some comments mentioned it's within 300rpm or so.
So as u probably know when u remove a link from a chain u r actually removing a link and a half. This is because master links are outside links. So u need 2 inside links to do this. But often that extra half a link is the difference between getting the chain back together or not. So they sell half links. Ur chain looked like #35 so thats the link i sent but they come in whatever size u need.
How many ounces of oil did you put in it?
One potential reason for it wanting to take off like that. Your idle is set too high and when you turn on the choke it's raising the idle enough to engage the clutch (or TAV). Your idle sounds high like it could be high. It wouldn't be a bad idea to get a tach for it so you know where it's running at.
A tach like this one is cheap and will give you a good enough idea of where the engine is running at.
https://www.amazon.com/Maintenance-Tachometer-Replaceable-Motorcycle-Paramotors/dp/B07PMJH7QV
Do you have the cable properly connected in the carb?
Oh, forgot...some people will say to replace the stock sprocket with a larger one like a 60tooth, which is fine do whatever you want, but you'll lose about 8-10mph off the top speed.
However, I kept my stock sprocket on and find it a pretty perfect balance between speed and torque. I can keep up with my two buddies on quads when we go ridding along a mountain side.
And if that's the stock belt on the TC....throw it out, they're absolute junk andine was pure rubber, no threading at all. I use the GPS ones and these from amazon
I’ve got the same set up and I’ve been using this chain that I’ve bought off amazon...
One like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZI7SQR4
The cable may need to be modified depending on what engine or carb you're running. You need to pay attention to the cable length too.
Cheap throttles like that are the way to go.
Yea those work best and for the price you can’t beat it, https://www.amazon.com/Minireen-Twist-Throttle-Grips-Cable/dp/B073PWPMWF/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=VML7J7Z51PZ9&keywords=twist+throttle+roller&qid=1669604031&sprefix=twist+throttle+roller%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-4 , the one I linked is what I would stay away from
Did you buy a kit like this?
https://www.amazon.com/FVRITO-Carburetor-Performance-Mainfold-TrailMaster/dp/B09CPFXT69
That plastic spacer isn't needed.
You only need the gasket to go between the manifold and the head. The carb should have an o-ring on it so you won't need a gasket between it and the manifold.
No you don't need a 'step-down' just a regular 12v regulator-rectifier....
Can't attest to that amazon one, but I've had this one from gopowersports on my Trailmaster with a full electrical system for over a year now and zero problems, no blow fuses or excessive heating.
No you don't need a 'step-down' just a regular 12v regulator-rectifier....
Can't attest to that amazon one, but I've had this one from gopowersports on my Trailmaster with a full electrical system for over a year now and zero problems, no blow fuses or excessive heating.
Not sure it’s necessary but I popped this little filter on mine once I got the aftermarket air filter.
RASNONE 12mm Air Filter Cold Air... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082YD5L6B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm using the Cool Niks GPS speedo app.
If I have someone with me I use a Bushnell speed gun for doing top speed runs. It works great. They're expensive though. I paid $78 for mine back in May 2020 and they're $127 now.
Check this out Amazon quad track kit
Or this AliExpress pit bike kit
No, they're all as junkish as the next one...at least for the Coleman style.
There's another similar bolt style tensioner that has I think 2mm thicker threading so you'd have to file out the two little metal tabs that the nut tighten against. You could try something like this from amazon if the axle hole is the right size. But that's not the issue if the threaded rod part is still only as strong as the typical Coleman style ones.
Go buy an impact.
A 1/4" impact driver should zing that off and is a very handy tool to have around the house anyway. I have a Dewalt one and it's probably one of my most used tools when working on minibikes.
If you're budget allows, pick up an electric 3/4" impact too. I don't use mine often, but when I do need it I'm glad I have it. They're kind of pricey though. It'll take the lug nuts off my 3/4 ton diesel truck like it's nothing.
1/4" impact driver: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF885C1-20V-Impact-Driver
3/4" impact: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGFCH6Y
I got this guy for my ct200u-ex: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S92Z5X6
I'm very happy with it. I've got the stock engine with new carb and intake. I ride my mini bike around the neighborhood early in the morning and don't want my neighbors to hate me. No complaints yet.
If it's just the master link, you can easily replace that and continue to use the chain.
Otherwise one of the really good kinds is the RK Gold chain. It's a little cheaper on gps (depends on shipping price) than Amazon
https://www.gopowersports.com/rk-gold-premium-racing-chain-420-5ft/
I run 2 Nilight LED pod lights with an 18v ryobi battery on my U-EX. I use the mounts below on the upper shock tubes
Nilight Led Pods 2PCS 18W 1260LM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G620ZVU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share.
Nilight 90023B 2-Pack (Standard)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9HFFQ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought this and I think its a bit quieter if not the same as the regular muffler but still sounds really cool. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S39J7KX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I bought an aftermarket compatible Muffler that looks like the stock, but is quite loud. Is there a reputable place to buy a stock Muffler? Extra bonus points if it's on Amazon (even though I doubt it)
This is what I bought: Toolyuan 18300-ZE1-900 Muffler... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H1S7CHW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I am pretty sure it is a type "c" shoulder/sprocket/shoulder with a keyway, no set screws. Confirm this is proper for the sprocket you are looking for.
Check Amazon for the throttle assembly. They're cheap on there.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XJ1VHCB
I've bought a few of those for my bikes.
Check these sites too. If one's closer to you at least shipping may be cheaper.
I'd also check sites like Studz Racing, NR Racing, Childish Concepts, Kart City Performance, Paul's Karts, OMBwarehouse...
It can be worth it to shop around a bit sometimes.
They're not needed. Like the other posted said, you just need the valve cover vent. It'd be a good idea to put a small filter on it.
That stuff is just for emissions compliance.
These little filters work well for the valve cover vent hose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09MDW67W2
Just put these on the fenders of my ct200u and the work pretty good.
Otherwise if you're looking to put something on the frame itself in front of the engine, you can shape some diamond plate or steel stock and bolt it to the frame using some [EMT Straps]https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-2-in-2-Hole-Electrical-Metallic-Tube-EMT-Straps-4-Pack-96161/100135935)
Just buy a cheap Amazon or Ebay one. An impact isn't needed to install one.
You should own an impact though, they can be handy. I'd spend the money on that before a TAV. I have a Dewalt one and love it.
I run this one on four different minis. This is mostly a “stage 1” kit. Header, muffler, carb. The carburetor is a “stage 2” from GPS.
I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MZPR5RC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is a WORLD of difference, the caveat is that they need to be mounted in a different orientation and the bracket needs a bit more beef on it. I can make you one if you pay for shipping.
Any 7/8" thumb throttle setup will work. I'd stay away from the fancy looking aluminum ones.
I've run these and have never had an issue. They're cheap and they work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXNPCGS
When it comes to grips and the thumb throttle, tape can make up the difference. Grips for 7/8" bars will come with a 1" one for the throttle to fit over the tube. A bit of tape (I use painter's tape) wrapped around the bar will take up that 1/8" pretty quick. It's kind of ghetto, but better than buying 2 sets of grips and ending up with 2 spare throttle side ones.
MEILAN X5 Smart Bike Tail Light with Turn Signals and Automatic Brake Light Wireless Remote Control Bike Rear Light Back USB Rechargeable Safety Warning Cycling Light Fits on Any Road Bicycle
https://www.amazon.com/X5-Wireless-TailLight-Automatic-Rechargeable/dp/B075PYDN5V/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=25SL2OKKTLY1M&keywords=mini+bike+tail+light&qid=1658398200&sprefix=mini+bike+tail%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spL.... Now the brackets it comes with I used the second one and took metal wire and bent it to shape to fit the bracket then put it under the seat to keep it stable. I can make a video showing what I did later today.
I run these on mildly shitty, sand, and any second Im about to go over the handlebar roads, and they have held up just find and have plenty of tread after a year of drifting on hydraulic brake upgrades. Sand is a bit scary if you hauling ass but honestly theres not a huge difference in the tread types on a whopping 6in tire
I bought these for mine. Havent put them on yet though, I saw Gopowersports sells the whole tire and rim assembly for pretty cheap after I already bought these
See those two tabs sticking up from the plate with holes in them, one above the clutch, and the second above the jackshaft gear?
There should be two more on the bottom side of the plate.
You'll need a Coleman style cover...that link is a little pricey, you find it cheaper elsewhere.
The Coleman style has 4 slots in the cover that those metal tabs slip through, and you put four cotter pins in the tabs to hold the cover in place. A regular bolt on cover won't fit.
Had this on my street legal 125cc for a while. Works perfectly! https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Anti-Theft-Vibration-Motorcycle-Waterproof/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=R7Z3SVHKCPYA&keywords=motorcycle+alarm&qid=1657471416&sprefix=motorcycle+alarm%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-3
They are pretty cheap on amazon.chain tensioner. Or if u juast want the wheel they have those too.
I recommend his twin pipe exhaus
says it's out of stock...there's a single pipe version, or to can contact him to special order it.
But it just puts out such a ridiculous sound, I have one on my ct200u and if you don't see the bike you'd think a Harley was around the corner
I finally got around to purchasing a replacement LED bulb and that was the fix. I just wanted to give that link as I had a little trouble finding lots of alternatives. This one works great, buy with confidence: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K9X5PL3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nope. 220 isn't that rough.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JYT8LJC/
I've used this stripper and it even takes off the OEM powder coat on Doodlebug frames. Slather it on, wrap it with some plastic wrap, let it sit overnight and most of whatever is on there will come off. It does make a mess though, which is why I prefer not to use it.
Is the ferule still on the end of the cable? If it is, just take the throttle assembly apart and put it back together.
If it ripped off or a piece broke, you can buy a complete kit for cheap on Amazon. It will most likely cost less to do that than replace one piece.
https://www.amazon.com/CDZ-Motorcycle-Throttle-Accelerator-Compatible/dp/B08SC4879J/
They're pretty cheap to replace... so cheap troubleshooting nearly isn't worth the effort.
That said... a Mikuni or even a Chinese knock-off Mikuni is WORLDS better than that carb. I have one of each and the bike with the Mikuni is the one I grab every time.
What u do is get creative. U take a caliper like thisatv caliperwhich is made for a polaris. Then u get a handle with a master cylinder that.holds enough fluid to work it. Then u get a chunk.of.steel and a welder, fab a mount for it and then u will have real stopping power. Im want to do it to my hawg ty. But i have to fab a rim first as the only 8" rim i have seen with flanges on both sides is too wide to fit in my frame. I think it is for the trailmaster. Im just having a hard time parting with $65-75 for a rim that i will have to cut shorten reweld and hope all the while it stays true and somewhat balanced.
These belts work great. They are kevlar banded and do not stretch and wear out as fast as the cheap ones do.1pz belts
BLACKHORSE-RACING 3pcs 30 Series Go Kart Drive Belt Replaces Manco 5959 / Comet 203589 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EBOKP0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ATX7BYQV2JMP9SWYNTJR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Belt that might work? Let me know please.
AnXin Motorcycle Handlebar Z Bars... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X868SL6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are great. I'm 6'4, and the stock bars were always interfering with my knees. The best part about those bars, you don't need to lengthen any cables. Everything reaches just fine without any modification
ROCK BROS Bike Phone Front Frame... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HJD99K3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I wired the lights to a 20v power tool battery. I put the battery in the bag. There's still enough room for other stuff. Pretty handy
You already have an in.lb. torque wrench?
Having a ring compressor makes getting the piston back in a lot easier too. They're cheap enough it's worth picking one up.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648433-Piston-Ring-Compressor/dp/B001CZJ4JA
AnXin Foot Pegs Motorcycle Universal CNC Footpeg Footrest For CRF XR 50 70 110 M2R SDG DHZ KAYO Pit Bike Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L3PVTY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1G8SZ1XF06658JD7VTWG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I put these on my MB-200. I had to drill out the hole on the bracket to accommodate the bigger pin and shave off about an 1/8 of an inch from the peg for it to slide into the bracket. I’m 200+ lbs. and ride very aggressively.
Something like these pit bike pegs should be pretty good. You'll have to check and see the sizing of the peg holder on the bike vs the insert piece on the pegs.
I used these bulbs. Haven't had an issue in over a year with the first one, and have the other waiting for when it goes out.
Db30 hydraulic breaks their your best bet and they’ll fit your setup https://www.amazon.com/TC-Motor-Upgraded-Hydraulic-System-Doodlebug/dp/B07M9NDFSY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=2YDUAHDD3AYTN&keywords=db30+hydraulic+brake&qid=1653352614&sprefix=db30+hyd%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-5
212CC Carburetor Carb for Harbor Freight Predator 60363 68120 68121 69727 69730 Engine R210 Gas Engine for 6.5 HP 212cc Go Kart OHV Engine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0965SJPW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RSACCRCKKA89CG0EASBK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
212CC Carburetor Carb for Harbor Freight Predator 60363 68120 68121 69727 69730 Engine R210 Gas Engine for 6.5 HP 212cc Go Kart OHV Engine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0965SJPW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RSACCRCKKA89CG0EASBK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yea I need to make a custom brace soon and the bag I got it off Amazon. This ride I only took two Arizona teas. Has plenty of space in it.
SHANGRI-LATacticalRangeBag...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZWOF7E8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Amazon has a few, here’s the exact one I have Diesel Engine 196CC 4 Stroke Single Cylinder Forced Air Cooling Horizontal Axis Engine Recoil Hand Start 53mm Shaft Length 3000RPM 2.2KW (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R7CY526/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JKEQNADDYA194221RWVT
YHB Carburetor Carb Jet Kit Aftermarket Replacement for Predator 212cc Hemi Non-Hemi Carb .036 .037 140 E-Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S7L3HK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7HD4SJJPS6KTG3KMCF2Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I ordered and I also ordered this last time. I used the new etube and .37 jet at first, then the .36 jet second.
There are clutches that don’t use the shaft bolt. If you can get that out of there you can use one. Here is an example:
Go Kart Clutch, Trkimal Centrifugal Clutch 12 Tooth for Mini Bike Engine Up to 6.5 HP 3/4" BORE #35 Chain 12T for Predator 212 CC Mini Bike Fun Kart GC160, GC190, GX120, GX140, GX160, GX200 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SJRRN65/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1SFSR51PV059Z9T431BH
Weird. The black inner part is probably a nut. Might have to grab the outside of the clutch with a chain wrench and try spinning that inner nut off with a hammer and screw driver or a pipe wrench. Or there's a set screw holding it on. Maybe a tool like this but I'm just guessing here.
https://www.amazon.com/Kids-ATV-Parts-Spanner-50cc-125cc/dp/B010SJL5NI
I got this one from Amazon but I’m having a hard time figuring out the best way to set it up, if you click my profile you can see how I had it a week or so ago before I cut my chain guard of! https://www.amazon.ca/Tensioner-Motorcycle-Accessories-automatically-motorcycle/dp/B08GC5RG2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=Chain+Tensioner&qid=1652327850&sr=8-7
What can I do to improve it I ordered this from Amazon just having a hard time putting it on https://www.amazon.ca/Tensioner-Motorcycle-Accessories-automatically-motorcycle/dp/B08GC5RG2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=Chain+Tensioner&qid=1652327850&sr=8-7
Removed the trackers from those links for you:
https://www.amazon.com/Yermax-Carburetor-Harbor-Freight-Predator/dp/B0817HC2Z4/ref=sr_1_6
https://www.amazon.com/Centrifugal-Clutch-Bore-Tooth-Chain/dp/B01MAWIOAL/ref=sr_1_12
I have this one and it works great. I don't even bother with doing springs by hand anymore. It helps to have a vise as well to hold the tool. Not necessary, just makes it easier.
I personally prefer these ones. air filter. Mostly because they are larger and washable and look better IMO. Those other kind look alot like a fuel filter for 2 cycle lawn equipment.
I did this on my trike, it's not hard to do at all. If you have electric start like I do on my big 440cc, it gets a little more complicated with the added relay. But for a pull start motor, just replace the standard kill switch on the side of the motor with a key switch. Run the wires to wherever you want the switch to be. The kill switch just grounds the ignition coil to the block so for a key switch wired in that circuit, the "on" position will actually kill the engine or not allow it to start. The "off" position will allow it to run. This switch from Amazon would do the job pretty well.
https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Terminals-Keyswitch-Keylock-Switch/dp/B01EIWHIAU/
Should have upgraded to something like a 140 pilot jet as well… that might help. This is the kit I always buy. The .036 main seems to run better than the .037, the .037 seems to pop quite a bit on the exhaust side.
Yes.
MWMNUN Motor Upgraded Hydraulic Brake System The Left Of The 7/8" Handlebars 50 inch Hose Compatible with Mini Bike Baja Doodlebug DB30 Minibikes Go Karts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092V44K6L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X4C6PT0DF5FKYZQGV96V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You will need to modify the bracket for the break tho. GPS sells the bracket for $7 and i used washers to make it work. Brake disc rubs on it a bit when riding but hasnt affected its braking power yet. There’s also a kit that comes with a spacer for $22.99
https://www.studzracing.com/product-p/motovoxhyrdobracketkit-.htm
Techjayse 7/8" Universal Motorcycle Hand Bar Grips Pillow Grip Anti-Slip Rubber Racing Grip for Dirt Bike Motocross,Different Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PCX3XRM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_D1EEFWYS80FD8GVAMPAJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Would this be a good kit to start? header with muffler, throttle stop delete, governor spring mod done. Which jet would be better?
Predator-CT200U-ex/dp/B09NS8MC6N/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=781RU9UIL3KJ&keywords=coleman+bt200x+upgrade&qid=1650250155&sprefix=coleman+bt200x+up%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-5)