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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083QLWSMF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These work awesome! GPS speed! works in Metric and English, These are cool as to you can link them in a app to google maps make a map of where you been as well and how fast!
Maybe I've just lived a charmed life with these things, but unless the seal was installed improperly by the factory, I haven't had a problem with oil seal leaks. If it is leaking, there will be an oily mess in the magneto housing. If you have a leak, it is more likely the cylinder to block and then the intake pipe.
Spraying some carb cleaner around these joints while the engine is running will help you find the leak. It could also be the crappy imported carburetor too.
PP Barb Y 3/16" Hose Tee Fittings for 3/16 ID Hose Polypropylene Plastic Pipe Connectors Boat Water Air Aquarium O2 Fuel Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y796C5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JZXS3837A8AGES2HZT0X
Joywayus 3/16" ID Hose Barb Y Shaped 3 Way Union Fitting Adapter Intersection/Split Brass Water/Fuel/Air https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YD3JRZD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4G1BVC139ABMZCBSFDXK
Or you can try one of these
DONSP1986 Improved Silver CNC Universal Motor Mount-Suit for 3.4L Felt Faker Gas Frame - Gas Motorized Bicycle 48cc/66cc/80cc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S25NDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_51A2HAYW1XHWWT0GFWNQ
Your carb looks a little too tilted. It should be as horizontal as possible. I reccomend this shorty intake, it'll provide better throttle response, as well as provide more than enough room to get that carb away from the frame.
I've built 8 bikes so far and run into this issue on occasion. You can take slack out of the throttle cable by using the adjustments nuts on either end of the cable and by adjusting the metal housing that goes in to the plastic throttle housing. Sometimes even adjusting all those places all the way out, there is still slack in the cable. The sleeve of the cable will pull back from the top of the carb and will wear out, and it sucks, because the cable will eventually fail. I've found an easy fix. I add a cable ferrule housing to the end of the cable. It takes up that slack perfectly. You have to drill the hole in the ferrule out a bit so it will slide over the throttle cable tip, but works like a charm
E-outstanding 100PCS Bicycle Plastic Brake Cable Housing Ferrule End Caps, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MLN61BL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_4TM1WEN1VMWEYRFSS0CW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
One of the benefits of having the BT80 engine - all the universal motorcycle 12V goodies you'd ever want to wire up 🙂
Can I recommend you add a single lever, double brake handle on your right bar so you only have the clutch on your left hand? It's a huge quality of life upgrade. Just make sure you tune the brake tension so the rear locks up and the front doesn't.
This one bolts to the disc mount hubs. They exist and are way better than using the spoke clamp style.
I dont really know the exhaust yet probably a kinebelle or niome and the head I an going to get is right here.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0747L4H49/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_KNDFNDY0XQHK8DQ996JY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It’s called “sthus 80cc Motorized Bicycle Engine Add on Motor Chain Lock up” on Amazon. Should be about $12. You could probably find it cheaper on eBay though.
https :// www DOT amazon DOT com/dp/B081TT4FD5/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_ESRCFXKNYMCZG9EJ1T0G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’d recommend these, just got them and they look sturdier
SUNLITE Deluxe 26" Springer Fork... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTM7PY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Same price
You need:
a rim that takes discs
current steerer tuber has to be threaded 1”
maybe to cut town the new steerer tube with a hack saw
You can use the old bearings, but for an older bike I’d get lithium grease to repack bearings
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H19NPZ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the one I got, seems pretty solid.
If you happen to have a 1.5inch diameter hub and you think a cnc sprocket adapter would help your alignment because you can shift the sprocket around, I could send you my old one. Since I went jackshaft I don’t need them anymore, I have two of this: 44 Tooth CNC Sprocket With Rear Wheel Hub Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZS3G44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QA2DGNED7PHJYX4Z724T?psc=1
If you send me a shipping label .. 👍🏻
That's awesome! How do you like the four stroke? I almost got one but I had a two stroke that I sold years ago and decided to build a similar one. This is the exact one gallon tank. Others have those annoying studs and look too rotund. This one has a better mounting setup. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LH1L73/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_5sWcGbPJ32E3C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the exact tank and it is significantly better than other similarly sized ones because it doesn't have those awful studs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LH1L73/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_5sWcGbPJ32E3C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use these tektro caliper brakes on my cruiser. They are a little pricer and you would also need to buy a brake cable set + levers, but worth it in my opinion because they're from a reputable brand. I used the holes for the fenders to install them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BLM3TZO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BLM4EJY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Some people are suggesting one piece jugs for you I would avoid that. I'm sure your head is fine its just the jug that's cracked. I really like CDH Power for parts. Here is their jug. If you can though go to a different seller than amazon and find an unpainted one they tend to perform better. this is just all amazon has for CDH Power.
I upgraded my saddle post to this one
GANOPPER Suspension Seatpost Fixie MTB Mountain Bike Seat Post 25.4mm 27.2mm 28.6mm 30.4mm 30.9mm 31.6mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089R8TQ3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_.zU1Fb4CYDQTA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And I think the price/result ratio is amazing. It really takes out some impact and it’s so easy to install. This particular one can be pre tensioned if you’re lighter, also I’m 250 and it still works
Hmm I don’t know any BMXs with rear dropout holes but often when people need to install a rear rack without the holes they use what’s called a P clamp
Of course since you’re going to be mounting a motor you’re probably going to want something much thicker, something like this maybe https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/work-light-accessories/stainless-steel-p-clamp-for-bar-mounts/1418/3330/?utm_campaign=Child+-+Organic+Shopping&utm_source=Vehicle+Lighting+%3E+Work+%26+Off+Road+Light+Accessories&utm_medium=4023&...
You’ll have to get measurements and make sure it works... but I’m not guaranteeing anything lol
Maybe you could make this work: a set of bmx footpegs and an old axle. Consider fender washers to get the right diameter for your lower bracket.
That’s a good fix to get you out of a pickle and back home but I seriously get a new tensioner. I like this style because it has a spring so it’s easier to stay tensioned and it’s less axial load on the bearing inside because the roller can move a bit
Your new chain looks good! If you have to lube a lot, don’t use bicycle chain lube if you do. It’s thinner and more likely to fling off, I use a spray chain lube from the hardware store: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L711-Chain-Cable/dp/B003542HE0
Yessir already see you bought something but here
Here is a wireless bicycle computer that is only 16 dollars...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HL0B5AU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cPmzFbD26YJWW
It can record the CURRENT SPEED, ODOMETER, TRIP DISTANCE, MAXIMUM SPEED, AVERAGE SPEED, ELAPSED TIME, CLOCK during your biking!
Best if luck with your product, but there is a better cheaper mousetrap already on the market.
I didn't buy a kit, I just bought the engine, because I bought 2 of them for my Twoie Stroke that I'm putting together, here's the link
I like them because they look classic and awesome, they are also high compression capable, better cooling, etc.
This is how you manage clutch and brakes at the same time - this on one side of the handlebars, and clutch lever on the other side. Pretty easy to get used to.
DO NOT BUY THAT HEAD. It is much better going with a cheaper head, such as the Cast CDH Power Head (CDH Head =$35), which actually has a slightly higher performance head, but is also half the price.
Budget MZ65 Pipe = $35 (Good power boost. Trash build quality. Flimsy material)
High Performance Nast jack Pipe = $60 (INSANE power boost. Great build Quality.)
I made a video on it. This is why it happened.
https://youtube.com/shorts/uISGxB2ibTQ?feature=share
Your engine also may be flooded. If you're going to start it, clean out your intake manifold and the intake port. Chances are it was pouring out the back of the air filter. When you start her again, do it with the choke off (down) as I eant you to lean out the engine when starting it. You may have to pedal a bit when starting it because of it firing up on a lean start.
In short form, your float failed. It's a hollow piece in the bowl of the carb. Your seam deteriorated and it filled up with gas, because of this your float sunk to the bottom and it told your gas line "feed me more gas"
I had this happen before. Always shut the gas line off, I sometimes forget. When I am two blocks away from my house, I shut the gas line off at the petcock, and ride it until the carb is empty and the bike runs out of all of the gas in the carb.
Unscrew your carb and hold it up to the light, you will be able to see your gas mix as it will be a strange color from the oil. Mine is green because I use Lucas. You can't buy just a float online, youre going to have to shell out the $10-$15 on a new NT carb.
Don't get that preformance carb as there is nothing preformance about it and it's a horrible carb. There is a genuine Speed NT carb, here is the link. I only ran the knockoff stock NT and I ran the Speed carb and my God, it was like a whole new bike
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H28QNWB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Try this.
Before you listen to these guys and screw up your bike! don't run it without a filter. sand stuff will tear the poor thing up off back tire really fast....
$6.00 can save you tons of aggravation and you won't have to worry about screwing up your engine! Do it right and skip all bs below most posted. There is a reason they have 100's photos of dead bike they all post lolz.....
Yes, with any cyinder basic porting will boost performance. Get a basic dremel, (Plug in Dremel recommended) and a set of cheap tungsten carbide bits, and you're set. I reccomend starting with just cleaning up the casting flaws and if you want to go further, make sure you know what you are doing.
Intakes numbered 1 and 4 are for a "boost bottle," which is absolutely useless, and will cause more harm than anything else. The longer offset intakes make your bike run too lean, while rarely helping the carb clear the frame.
The shorty intake in image 3 will not just give better clearance than any other intake, but also boost fuel efficiency, as well as throttle response. It is also by far the easiest intake to install, due to it being much more compatible with any other intake on the market. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J7Z71QT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pd_rd_i=B08J7TCSKY&pd_rd_w=Wzynf&content-id=amzn1.sym.46bad5f6-1f0a-4167-9a8b-c8a82fa48a54&pf_rd_p=46bad5f6-1f0a-4167-9a8b-c8a82fa48a54&pf_rd_r=J86035KZNA8XV55FPN1H&pd_rd_wg=OwKKC&pd_rd_r=b6198ce6-a9b2-4a89-840b-134db958cca3&s=automotive&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTUNLMUYxNlhHNVk2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzI0MTIzMzVCVUs1MzVNUDBEWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjg4OTU2MTBON0lFQ0IyUllFOSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
All jokes aside. I actually use these and they've been treating me well. brakes
Grab a dellorto knockoff. The SHA 15:15 SCREAMS when tuned!
I've bought both, literal difference is markings are either Chinese or Italian, and the dellorto is more solid metal, with a filter in the fuel line part aswell.
I actually just installed these a few weeks ago. Love them! They feel like my street bike (they're on a dual lever). Anything other than disc brakes burn out over time. Disc pads will too, just not as fast. They've been better than the ones my wheels came with. And easy to get on Amazon. amazon link for brakes
I highly recommend this one. I have it and it works great and had been for almost a year now. https://www.amazon.com/Sange-Stroke-Conversion-Cooling-Motorized/dp/B081CTZ231/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=278BXG63DVMR2&keywords=sange+2+stroke+bike+engine&qid=1663715032&sprefix=sange+2+stroke+bike+engine%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-4
Remember that there are many different types of intakes and adapters that helps keep your carb out of the way. My favorite is the shorty intake, its very useful, and boosts throttle response. https://www.amazon.com/Mingdun-32mm-40mm-Manifold-Connector-Motorized/dp/B08J7TCSKY/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_3_9/132-4224357-7371807?pd_rd_w=QBllq&content-id=amzn1.sym.52496815-75d1-441b-a973-439c7b1bea7c&pf_rd_p=52496815-75d1-441b-a973-439c7b1bea7c&pf_rd_r=QVRHYBF9FF58Q3FH31E2&pd_rd_wg=1CHtW&pd_rd_r=14743af5-5428-4d28-aceb-ff4859f6bef1&pd_rd_i=B08J7TCSKY&psc=1
Yes. Depending on your budget and the degree of quality you want...
No, I'm suggesting a caliper brake. Probably the best one for our bikes. I haven't seen too many bikes that you can't mount one of those on
I'm not sure where you've been looking, but Amazon, ebay, walmart.com all have them
All motorized bike engines are pedal start motors. I dont know what websites are available in Ireland, but the most reliable engine you can buy is off Amazon. It is called the FIRESTORM 80. It is a bit more expensive than most kits, but I can assure you, it has better reliability and power than all other engines.
This is what I use. I had a similar issue and thought something heavy duty would be better. It adds a bunch of weight (slows me down 10mph after thank and forks) but that mofo is solid. Check your tube measurements. On my frame I had to weld collars for it to work.
Also I'd add because I'm working on that now, refitting it to accept a rear axle instead of a front axle. The bearings for the front would be 12x26x8 (they're 40$each) the rear is 15x16x8 which are 12$ for a pair lol)
There's everything from the little sponge looking ones to the "mini k&n" that comes with dellorto clones. I'd measure the size of the intake (in metric) and start from there.
This is the exact headset you need. https://www.amazon.com/CDHPOWER-Threadless-Semi-Integrated-Headsets-Motorized/dp/B06Y2Z6WHG
Not all headsets are universal. Make sure you get the right tool for the job.
Almost every predator build I've seen involves some sort of mounting plate or bracket to seat it on the frame. I'd look at those first and see what kind of frame those mount to easily.
https://www.amazon.com/Harbor-Freight-Predator-Engine-Engines/dp/B07M7FXJJK
I'm curious what you come up with, I'd like to see someone put one of those Predator 212 Ghost engines on a frame.
I use this one with no trouble. I will say the long crank shaft and wide crank arms feel wonky for me so I just used the shaft and regular arms.
Depending on the carb, you're looking at 4mm,5mm, or those pilot/slow jets that dirtbikes use.
I run a dellorto sha 15:15 which uses the 5mm thread jets like these: https://www.amazon.com/Nozzle-75-98-Dellorto-Carburetor-10pcs/dp/B07HSNSW96
People actually bought those?
It was 4000$ new+SH, and used a cheap china made LIfan 125cc engine, but is priced 4 times higher then a china dirtbike using the same engine and a much weaker/worse frame.
The amount of endlessly better bikes then that for both mopeds, and actual motorcycles, for less money, is astounding.
I cant imagine anyone bought one at that price point.
If you're referring to the bofeng that's coming with the newest 66/80cc kits, such as the zeda firestorm, a set of jets for the Predator 212 will fit perfectly, I have one myself. Sadly they only seem to come from China so you'll have to wait a little while.
here’s the link! Amazon- Mirrors
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MX7QKLK/ This one here. Different and new motor, since last one had a broken seal somewhere (it looked to be leaking oil from the rear bolt socket!)
And no, i didnt add grease to the gears. But i will in the morning.
So it's a shitty doing tensioner paired with a super nice arch tensioner with the parieng I haven't had any issues so far and it's been working great
. Arch NAVARME Arch Idler Pulley Chain... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F9FTT7J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Spring. LUPING Chain Tensioner for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09V332865?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The device you're talking about is called a buck converter. They're commonly used in golf carts to run 12 volt lights, here's one that seems to sell very well on Amazon
This is the one I've been using. https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-Signals-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Bicycle/dp/B099PFTNBB/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?crid=ZPVNDE7NWUHE&keywords=bike+turn+signals&qid=1657406428&sprefix=bike+turn+signals%2Caps%2C316&sr=8-15
Comes with horn and alarm lock. Not sure how bright your looking for since you didn't post an image of how dim it was.
You didnt really specify what motor your getting and what your trying to get out of it. Regardless if your looking for strength a steel frame is the way to go, this is what I found after a quick search. https://www.amazon.com/Huffy-Cruiser-Bike-Mens-Fairmont/dp/B07BR8RSX7/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=3J6J3XF6N5PFW&keywords=stainless%2Bsteel%2Bframe%2Bcruiser%2Bbike&qid=1657246675&sprefix=stainless%2Bsteel%2Bframe%2Bcruiser%2Bbike%2Caps%2C81&...
this might suite me better amazon
could this be a solution to use disc brake and sprocket? amazon link
Probably should just order a new clutch assembly and put it in because I’m pretty sure those pins are supposed to be pressed in or something and not come out and those bearings don’t last all that long back there so it wouldn’t hurt to replace it and see if your problem goes away.
Helicoil it or just run in some 1/4 bolts and they’ll “tap” their own threads. Also make sure you’re using the exhaust hanger too.
Saipor 30pcs Thread Repair Kit M6 x1.0mm Helicoil Restoring Thread Repair Tools Wire Insert Kit Compatible Hand Tool Set for Auto Repairing https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08B3ZWGWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_2E1NGVRTH9C0AFT4S457
Bro replace that shitty spoke sprocket with a hub adapter one, they directly connect to the hub, have less screws/parts and will always remain perfectly center and not tilt or slip like yours is and will last longer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GWHXMTJ?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I have a JRL/bofeng, they're stock on newer zedas and use predator 212 jets like these
If your carb says "NT", "speed", "Runtong" or has some Chinese lettering near the throttle housing, this is what you're looking for:
If your carb says "Bofeng" on it, it uses a 6mm jet, and I haven't tracked them down yet
I've been building the 2-stroke kits for over 10 years. If there is an issue fitting the carburetor in the frame, order yourself a shorty intake. Offset intakes come in two different sizes and don't always fit either, but I almost never have a problem with the shorties. I also noticed they give you much better throttle response and the bikes start quicker using them. In fact I have one being delivered today for a build on a Kent Bayside cruiser. Mingdun Adjustable CNC 32mm-40mm Intake Manifold with Connector For 49cc 60cc 66cc 80cc Motorized Bicycle Bike Gas Bicycle Motor Engine Kit High Performance Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J7Z71QT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YRR7TFMC39FZNQ7EY0X4
I got it from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYQ2I83/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Definitely pricey but it is amazing quality and looks badass! There might be some cheaper ones too, I was just searching cafe racer tanks / peanut tank.
As long as you don't go crazy upgrading your engine, the stock wheels and tread will hold up fine. If you want to really save your wheels, make sure you use a sprocket hub adapter. because the sprocket included in these kits are mounted on the spokes of the wheel, it usually twists and destroys them. However, a hub adapter mounts to the hub itself and doesn't cause damage.
Hub adapter:
2022 Upgraded- Victagen Bike Light, 4000 Lumens Super Bright Bike Lights for Night Riding, Waterproof USB Rechargeable Bicycle Headlight, Free Aluminum Bike Light Mount + Free Rechargeable Taillights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXKQ9RG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3QQEE99YPRS3AG1WZNMB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
just do what i did keep a spare charging block lying around at your house and just plug it in when you park. The city area I live enforces me to bring the bike inside due to property crime anywsys
Mingdun Adjustable CNC 32mm-40mm Intake Manifold with Connector For 49cc 60cc 66cc 80cc Motorized Bicycle Bike Gas Bicycle Motor Engine Kit High Performance Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J7TCSKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Q0EBN7VJYVWHYHCXDQX this will work if you have a 40mm intake.
I turned a cruiser style bike into a motorized bike, there are a couple tricky parts. The kits are designed to work on bikes where the seat tube and down tube come together at a more acute angle. The cruiser bikes like mine and yours have a down tube that is flat on the bottom so its more like a 90 degree angle where the tubes meat.
I used this motor mount to solve that issue:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071R54Z2W/
You will also likely have problems getting the exhaust to fit, I bent mine to fit.
SUNLITE Cruiser/MX Brake Set, 73-91mm Reach, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO5J16/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_Q49SMR1FTWJP8K1M38NE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not these exactly but brakes like these on a 2 I to one lever wouldn't be enough?
These would do SUNLITE MX Side Pull Brake Set, 69-96mm Reach https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO9NYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5JYTRF677YSPQBWAN4TF?psc=1
You can get smaller wheels, keep in mind it’ll change your gear ratio by a bit :)
The shorty intake is the best intake for these bikes, even if the carb fits in the frame. Using an offset intake looks messy, constricts airflow, and requires rejecting the carburetor. I highly recommend these short intakes, they are awesome!! here's a link.
Never buy an offset intake. They constrict airflow and require rejecting the carburetor. The best intake to use, even if your carb does fit, is a short intake. Here's a link.
It looks like a shorty intake will fix that problem. Heres a link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J7Z71QT/ref=twister_B08J7FJYT8?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Bummer! I’ve managed to only scrape handlebar ends but I’ve dented a couple wheels on surprise potholes and there’s no riding home on those lol.
If you’re looking for a new throttle assembly, i just put this throttle kit on my bike and it’s working well so far.
Only one slot for the throttle cable but its mostly nice-ish (for the price) metal parts and the grip has held fine without pinning it to the handlebar. Standalone kill switch is handy for tweaking layout on a crowded handlebar.
I’m built two jackshaft conversions, one kit from sickbikeparts and custom myself. Everything said is true although no one differences between 2 stroke and 4 strokes.
I don’t have a 2 stroke so I can’t speak for it. My opinion on those is it’s going to be tricky to set up a brake lever, clutch lever and a shift mechanism on the same side of the handlebar.
Over more than 2000 4 stroke milestogether on my 2 jackshaft kits, I feel safe to say that the actual jackshaft produced the least problems. I had more headaches having custom wheels build and finding proper internal gear hubs.
Chain tensions are a challenge but nowhere as difficult as some explain. With basic hand machining tools and physical understanding and chain tensioners (HUOFU Bike Speed Tensioner, Aluminum Alloy Bicycle Single Speed Chain Tensioner, Bike Chain Guide Bike Protector, Cycle Chain Guide Tensioner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HHJ7ZZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SP87AM3Q2FRARET14SSC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ) they are very reliable in my experience. I’m running a Grubee 4 stroke 20/80 belt on my commuter with a SBP jackhsaft kit driving an enviolo 380% IGH, just hit 1500 miles and still purring at 30mph all day long. With minimal vibrations, this is my way to go long term without any fails
The most common recommendations would be to get a better chain tensioner and to get a sprocket hub adapter. I would swing by my local auto parts store and get a better spark plug. Either a NGK BR6HS or BR7HS, If you want to get fancy get an iridium plug like the NGK BRP6HIX or BRP7HIX.
You also should grab some red Loctite, I like 2760 but any red should suffice.
For tools you will need 10mm, 14mm and 17mm wrenches, a set of metric Allen keys, a Phillips & flathead screwdriver and scissors if you use the rag joint that comes with the kit.
Use quality 2 stroke oil at a 40:1 mix ratio from day one and just take it easy for the first few miles. Make a habit of checking all your hardware between rides because these little 2 strokes like to vibrate things loose.
PS: be careful when installing your gas tank, they are very thin and its easy to over tighten the nuts and crack where the studs are welded onto the tank.
I ended up using a carburetor offset pipe. Works great for me.
UAUS 32-40mm Silver Short Offset Intake Manifold Carburetor W/Gasket For 49cc 60cc 66cc 80cc Motorized Bicycle Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QVKLVHY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_T7DAMVZ0G2S37B5DYDB1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Chain Tensioner for Motorized Bicycle，Mellbree Spring Loaded Chain Tensioner Compatible with 49cc 66cc 80cc Engine Motorized Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DXXJ5D4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_77V5KA2STGPSRMZFFBDA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get an inductive tachometer from Amazon
Like this one.
Timorn Tachometer for Small Engine,Inductive Hour Meter for 2 Stroke & 4 Stroke Small Engine, Replaceable Battery Waterproof Tachometer for Chainsaw Marine ATV Motorcycle UTV Engine (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756VGDTC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_GC57J6YRCKEP60BXVNVJ