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I definitely wouldn't undo the work that was done to get rid of the original antenna mount. Perhaps something like this would work for you: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07R7RCRW9/ I don't have any experience with this particular one (I don't use am/fm, it's all commercials these days) but there seem to be a lot of good reviews.
If you'd like to keep an eye on the temp, your OBDII port can feed you live data for it. and a bunch of other engine stuff.
that's a decent one that sends the data etc to your phone. There are cheaper ones but anything below $50 skimps hard on something be it the scan ability or the app is garbage
If app is telling you that trans is constantly too cold during the winter after about 10-20 min of highway driving warming it up, you can block off some of the cooler with painters tape until it hits 160ish.
Your best bet is to get a code reader, if you don't already have one. Here is a cheap one on Amazon. Failing that, your nearest VIP or other auto shop will usually read the code for you for free.
Once you know the diagnostic code it's throwing, you'll have a better idea what happened.
I'm leaning toward it not being a frozen anything; if something froze in the injectors, you have a lot of water in your gas, which would cause problems even when it's not cold out.
Very often rough idle is caused by MAF and O2 sensors. You also might be having issues in the ignition system, so check your plugs, wires, and distributor.
Good luck, and please come back to post more question, or if you found the solution, post that.
I had the same issue with the broken hinge bushing and the wind noise, plus water coming in through the seam. I got a hinge kit and hinge spring compression tool off Amazon and it made all of the difference. Wind noise completely gone and the door swings and shuts like new. The fix itself is fairly simple but it helps to have an extra set of hands. I think most people don't seem to know how heavy a vehicle door really is until you're wrestling one by yourself like I did.
Here is the tool You will need to remove the spring so the hinge pin can drop out.
Here is the hinge kit
Just noticed how old this post is but responding anyway since I already typed it up.
Here’s the link! Amazon Custom Tire Cover For eighty something bucks you can’t beat it. We’ll see how it holds up in the winter though. Let me know if you need an image to use, I’m pretty sure I saw the older Bravada logo as a transparency too
You can get the part off amazon for cheap enough
Dorman 74300 Rear Driver Side Replacement Interior Cargo Door Handle https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000B66UUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1dUtFbQG8GY95
Changing it isn’t too hard with a pair of needle nose pliers and a wrench but it will annoy you
My dad got it for me for Christmas off of Amazon. I'm not sure he paid the cost it has now. It's a one piece frame that bolts in with the tow hooks. In our case, we had to cut the upper stabilizing brackets shorter, which wasn't a big deal. I think it's due to some slight differences in s10 models. My guard sits closer to the body than his does. I'm not sure if that's due to the zr2 frame having different mounting holes for the tow hooks.
If you want to find it cheaper, it's Aries 4044.
http://www.amazon.com/Aries-4044-Black-Grille-Guard/dp/B001FCLZVU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
I have a 2001. Same thing. I replaced the blades and it didn't change anything. Changed the wiper arm and the problem was solved. Got one from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYBBW4?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Looks too small for my taste. I think this might look better
They actually fit the old McDonald's super size sodas.
It won't hold a large soda if you turn fairly hard. But I had the same problem on my fullsize tahoe, so I jammed some cupholder inserts in there. I think they came out of a Toyota truck.
Like these, have these fins on the side that grab when you put a cup in there. Stopped me from dumping my ice coffee all over the passenger floor board.
The 94 up blazer inserts for the cupholder look like they might work, even that same siamese pattern. I think i tried them and they didn't work, that would've been a long time ago though.
From here on out, I'm putting those inserts in all my cupholders, even if I have to velcro tape on the bottom.
I know what turn it is too, it's going up hill to a level intersection and turning left. As soon as you level out, it give the cup just enough lift combined with the turning.
So you’re telling me these Amazon LEDs can actually get brighter?
They are better than the bulbs, however still lacking. And high beams is just a measly glow to the regular beams.
no idea on the value but those door panel clips are super cheap and easy to replace. i did both of my doors when i replaced the speakers.
i used these
makes a huge difference in the cab rattles.
Don't waste your money having a shop rebuild, the actual full process done by GM back in the day is petty intricate, checking a lot of tolerances and such.
You can buy a built 700r4 from a ton of places, jegs, b&m, tci, I think I saw a company called "monster" that has one for $900 I think. You'd have to search around, been 20 years since I rebuilt my 700r4 in my 91, was on a road trip and blew it up in New Mexico, paid some s-hole life $2k. They charged a butt load of labor just to diagnose. Buddy was like "why didn't you just order a b&m and have them put it in".
When i did my v8 swap, I blew that transmission and had some dude working out of his house rebuild it. I only used that guy because my buddy had his Mustang transmission built and it worked great. The in a turbo 350 transmission and after I grenaded that went to a turbo 400. Gas was cheap at the time.
Found a smoking deal on a 6spd out of a firebird, needed the money before Is able to do the swap.
Right now parts demand is a bit high on 2000-up vehicles because of the market. Not sure what your emissions-smog laws are, but it may be better just to do a full swap, engine and trans. Not sure what's involved in a 4l60e or 65 swap now and the cost of the parts of doing the conversion. But your still taking a gamble with one of those, still the inherent problem of the sun shield, just the tiniest piece of metal holding it to the shaft.
IF for some reason I was going to rebuild GM 4 spd auto, i would put in an upgraded sun shell
https://www.amazon.com/700R4-4L60E-Transmission-Reaction-Monster/dp/B01KYCYB94
Also, checking car-part.com theres a few transmissions around the country for $200-400.
Unfortunately there's no easy out with gm 4spd transmissions. As I'm sitting here in my Tahoe wondering how much longer this transmission will last. I've decided to keep this one for a long while, so I drive gingerly and I know at some point I'm gonna have to do something about it.
I put those in my truck. they probably only lifted the front 1/4".
These in the rear: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59MEI
mine is a 96 4.3L but I'm not sure it makes any difference to you.
i had 1800 pounds in my truck a month ago, did not bottom out.
I have to park in some less than desirable locations every now and then. Instead of springing for an actual alarm system I thought a cheap deterrent would work well enough. I don't keep anything in the truck but would rather not have my window broken.
I just bought this light on Amazon. The wire wasn't long enough so I desoldered it from the board and soldered on a longer cable, then wrapped it in heat shrink tubing. Drilled a small hole in the back of the glove box and ran it up to the top right speaker panel and drilled a hole in the plastic for the light to poke out of.
There is a switch that turns it off and on in the glove box and it's supposed to last 1.5 years with 2 AA batteries. The whole thing turned out really seamless and thought I'd share.
[2G+32G] Double Din Android Car Stereo 10.1 Inch Car Radio Touchscreen Head Unit in-Dash GPS Navigation System Bluetooth WiFi FM Radio with Mirror Link+Backup Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095LZ8XVD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KD9VK2V53ETJ9K7B6FMJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
$108 with the coupon right now. There are a bunch of variations on Amazon that I think are relatively the same.
It’s just tucked in the existing hole with heavy duty extreme weather Velcro all the way around the edges. Time will tell how it holds but but it’s honestly pretty solid.
And a thought it’s MUCH smaller than the factory stereo, it pushes more wattage and is a huge improvement sound wise
Dorman 74300 Rear Driver Side Exterior Door Handle Compatible with Select Chevrolet / GMC Models, Smooth Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B66UUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NW14N9HWGT0MSPMB9S9C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It was fairly easy. There are a few videos on YouTube that I watched first. My only useful advice is when you’re putting the new handle in, make sure you attach the bottom clip first.
Sheesh you got it to 200k without a fluid change? Im surprised. If you decide to change it it might destroy the tranny because the new fluid is like varnish and will remove all of the deposits that are potentially holding the whole thing together. Your move but I would really be careful going about it because its such an old transmission. You might need a rebuild.
This is the one i bought, but this is mosty to preserve the transmission when its still in good shape, not when its nearing the end of its life. You can throw it on anyway since its cheap and easy. If you need it rebuilt, get a shift kit for like 40 bucks and have them install it. A 4l60e can be very sturdy and reliable with a shift kit and vette servo.
Put these headlights on it, they look proper to the s10 but are just an amazing night and day difference
7x6 Inch Sealed Beam Headlight Conversion - fits H6054 H6052 H6014 - Clear Glass Diamond Cut Housing + H4 LED Kit 6000K Cool White 8000 LM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J4GFUSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_7TZN763561VQDAQHA800?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You could just buy a new one.
Garage-Pro Grille Assembly Compatible with GMC JIMMY 1995-1997/SONOMA 1994-1997 Black Shell with Silver Insert with Composite Headlight Holes https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GL7TXVD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PC1H2T9M3SHS2H89QGQ1
I bought this. It was one of the few toolkits that had more than just sockets, but no useless things like a claw hammer. Fits behind the seat of my first gen S10. I'm sure there's the same or at least similar kit on US amazon.
Here's an after market version of the injector spider: https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-FJ503-Injector/dp/B000IYNAFU/ref=sr\_1\_4?dchild=1&keywords=ACDelco+217-3028&qid=1631062639&s=automotive&sr=1-4
Garage-Pro Front Bumper Compatible with 1998-2004 Chevrolet S10 Set of 3 with Bumper Grille Assembly and Valance 4WD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097YB82L7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YSP0H49TZNDA7B8VTRS6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Guide-Gear-Compact-Truck-Tent/dp/B003C53BGA
I'm actually typing from inside of it right now. Spray it with the kiwi tent spray and its good to go. It stormed last night and its just as dry as it was yesterday
ive the 95 so i dont know if its the same but the little clip that goes over the body where it lines up with the bolt hole is probably on there pretty good so you would just need the bolt. i believe there are three in total right ? all 10mm and then the hose with the clamp into the rad ill find the clip again it does have to support all the weight from the fluid and vibration so maybe they arent the best for long term use but they are good until a replacement. heres a pletora of em. https://www.amazon.com/GOOACC-Retainer-Plastic-Fasteners-Chrysler/dp/B07L6FJGR4/ref=asc_df_B07L6FJGR4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=331836203478&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13153655242527164730&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt...
Not what you asked, but an alternative. I used a flathead screwdriver to carefully open up the screw slots on the mounting bracket and put in 1/4-20 sidewalk screws https://www.amazon.com/SHORPIOEN-Sidewalk-Bolt-Stainless-Steel/dp/B07ND1PW3G/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=sidewalk+bolts&qid=1608608777&sr=8-1
Well just like the guy in the video did, that hole had to get drilled out a little bigger. It's not a big modification by any means lol
And for pressure testing, really I would just buy a gauge permanently installed. With it permanent it's a useful diagnostic tool you'll always have. It goes anywhere on the 3/8 rubber line. Just cut and install. DO NOT install it on the return line which is just a tiny bit smaller.
Gauge: MEASUREMAN 1-1/2" Dial Size, Glycerin Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge, 304 Stainless Steel case, 0-15Psi, 3-2-3%, 1/8"NPT Rear Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T71VDVB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5JzRFb5CPSC22
Adapter: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/mr-gasket-fuel-pressure-gauge-adapter-2975/17360090-P
Plus some Teflon tape around the threads. Don't get the gauge insanely tight in there but it does need to be tight
I'd start off at 13-14psi
I used a small sheet of 3/4 MDF with threaded inserts https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Insert-Internal-Threads/dp/B002WC8TPW/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=%238+threaded+insert&qid=1605149138&sr=8-4
Just make blocks that are spaced down enough - so your console isn't smashed into the headliner or hanging loose. If i remember right, i used a 2x8x3/4 block up front, and a 4x8x1.5 block in the back
Then drill 2 holes in the back below the sunglasses holder (there's flat plastic there) and then there's the 1 hole up front. use those holes to mark where to drill into the MDF for the threaded inserts. Drill said holes to the right pilot hole size and screw in the inserts. That'll make the headliner removable without damaging the MDF. Mount the MDF and mark out where you need to cut the headliner. Make your cuts and check the fit with a bunch of dry fitting, then use liberal amounts of RTV to glue the blocks up there while they are still mounted to console. Once rtv is firmly pushed and swished, unscrew the console from the blocks being careful not to scoot them around. Once it's loose give them 2 days to dry
Doing it that way is reversible (not easily mind you) and doesn't involve drilling into roof members like the steel plate method does. Steel plate is just as valid, it's just not the route I took. It's a roof console, the RTV will hold just fine and not be concerned about the roof expanding / contracting with heat
and coat the frame and underbody (and inside the doors / fenders if you'd like to be extra careful) with spray on cosmoline ASAP. It'll stop rust 100% and can be applied over rust. It's essentially a mildly hardening wax/oil.
apply every 3 years or so. will have zero issues. it also doesn't trap water or gum stuff up like that rubberized shit you see being sold everywhere
You can rent a fuel pressure tester like this from an auto parts store. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R5IASC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z4GMFbFVPQHQZ
Then you need to find out what the pressure should be. I think for that pump it's around 15 psi. Then take off the fuel line near your throttle body and install the gage. Right when you turn the key it should go up to the right pressure. Once you start cranking, it should stay up instead of dropping.
I ordered mine from ACDelco.. On Amazon about a week ago ACDelco MU1733 GM Original Equipment Fuel Pump and Level Sensor Module with Seal, Float, and Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2TPVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F.mPDbCJYV6C2
I just checked out that mount you sent and that the mount it has on right now, I’m gonna go with https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-3-1108G-Transmission-Mount/dp/B000CN956K this mount here. Do you guys think this would be better?
Indeed! Here’s a link to it on Amazon PeCale Foldable Spare Tire Hitch the downside is that it’s sold out but I’ve seen it come back in stock. They have other similar ones but they don’t fold down which means removing it anytime you need in the hatch
Actually scratch that, they have another listing on Amazon and it’s in stockPeCale Hitch tire Carrier Foldable Construction for SUV Easy Hitch Mount Collapsible Mount Rack Adaptor for 2-inch Receiver Front and Back Rear Tailgate
A little bounce but not much, it’s on Amazon. It looks like they’re out of stock at the moment. I know they sell some that aren’t foldable that are almost identical and should work. PeCale Hitch Tire Carrier Foldable
This probably isn't what you're going for, but I bought one of these green slime cigarette lighter air pumps (link on amazon) and it works well. Takes a few minutes from flat to aired. Very cheap and good little piece of insurance I suppose.
I did. I got them on Amazon with the turn signals. They’re projector housings with a cheap LED. I just had some of the passenger side LEDs quit after this was taken after a year and a half of use. I also have the LED taillights, and I love them.
Having these make me stick out, which is nice in a lowered truck. The top of my door is at my chest, and a lot of people miss me while I’m driving.
I’m pretty sure it was these.
Get rid of those ridiculous LED headlights. They suck, look stupid, and they blind everyone in the opposing lane. They aren't street legal, either. Get some quality headlights like these. You'll thank me later as well as everyone meeting you in the other lane. https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-XtraVision-Headlight-Replacement-Visibility/dp/B000C18Q4Y?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000C18Q4Y I can be an asshole sometimes. Cool truck, bro!
Quick and easy, for sure. Unfortunately they don’t really seal and are notorious for causing wire corrosion. As an alternative, I’d suggest considering these instead. A little extra work, but they’re much more reliable when properly installed.
What year truck do you have? I used these on my 95. You have to do some wiring on your own but it illuminates the road way more than the stock halogens. These fit right in to the sqaure perfectly.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DEXAOUK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a 96 ext cab 4.3v6 Auto that came with the two piece and double cardan. I was experiencing horrible noise and vibration and ended up replacing the carrier bearing and the double cardan half of the shaft with this unit from Amazon.
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I've had it in there for over a year on a truck that's lowered 4" all around(pinion angle corrected). It's been on a few road trips totaling over a 1,000 miles and has seen plenty of runs up to the speed governor(95mph), sometimes holding 90mph+ for many miles.
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My personal experience with it has been really great. I have no basis to a good stock unit but it was a dramatic improvement over the one I had in it. Vibrations and noise virtually zero and there seemed to be a difference in throttle response as well.
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This was a direct bolt in and go. I changed it out over a couple hours in the driveway with some help.
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If this place still insists on that price I would suggest replacing it yourself either with the unit I linked or a stock replacement.
If you aren't running an extended cab this info might not help you.
I have a 96 ext cab that I bought slammed. I think my clearance was at best 2-2.5" from the ground. I raised it back up and had to replace everything suspension related from the steering gear box forward. I kept the 2" dropped spindles and went with stock height springs but had to install offset upper control arm shafts to get the alignment set properly without having 2" of shims. I'm more at 4" ground clearance now. The rear I have to deal with still. It currently has 4" blocks and only 2 leafs left in the suspension. The setup allows the rear-end housing to hit the frame rails under the bed if I hit a dip hard enough and it's pretty jarring. At this level of drop I need to have a C-notch.
I bought two things so far that made a dramatic difference in the way the ride felt including performance/engine response as well as road noise:
This for a good amount of weight loss and especially to balance things out. Much smoother and quieter. This thing is already balanced and greased, ready to bolt in. It's been ran up to 95mph(speed governor) without issue. https://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Driveshaft-1994-2003-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B01BKO1J5O/
The Next part is this alignment kit which I think was what really made all of the difference: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-Driveshaft-Align.html
As far as the lean I think because most everything that would cause this has been replaced or at least worked on in the last couple months I'm not noticing it.
Thanks, yes, it looks soft. I am going to measure it and see if I can use billet aftermarket window cranks. I might take the knob off, but they're $12 on Amazon so if they're 10mm they'd work. If not I may be able to machine just the insert and have what I want.
This is the 1 pin. It is for the gauge, and does not need to be changed. It's on the cylinder head
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-70-Original-Equipment-Temperature/dp/B000C9GRDI
This is the 2 pin, it's on the intake manifold near the thermostat, and this tell your ECM the temperature
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-928-Equipment-Multi-Purpose-Temperature/dp/B000C9I038
Of course you don't need the AC Delco brand parts, but it's the numbers i got from the factory parts diagrams from YOUR SPECIFIC TRUCK just to be absolutely sure.
MPFI is actually a good setup, even though people give it a lot of shit lol
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Delphi-FE0114-Electric-Fuel-Pump-/302076948073
(YES, this is a REAL Delphi pump. I actually bought this for my v8 swap lol, and rock auto lists it for your truck as well)
https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-FS0177-Fuel-Strainer/dp/B002VE972U
You'll need both.
Squirt the filler neck hose with penetrating oil/wd40 now, and let it soak in for a day - that's honestly the hardest part is getting that fucker off. Once it's off, you can use a fluid transfer pump to drain the tank into another vehicle if you'd rather work on an empty tank.
If not, the just jack that shit off, take off the straps , and lower it on to 4 jackstands, remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors, then lower it the rest of the way.
I extended my hoses and wires so that I can drop the tank all the way to the ground without issue, might be something you want to consider as well (aside from the filler neck of course lol)
What year is it? If first/second gen which I'm near certain it is as 3+ don't have these issues, look here
The connectors are pretty crap. get ones with ceramic such as this
You have to pull the motor to change the pan gasket. Front differential will NOT let you do anything on 4x4 pan. Damn cross-member won't let you do anything on 2wd lol
Get yourself a harbor freight engine hoist, they are like $120 or so and mine has done way more duty than i have expected lol and yes, you HAVE to pull the engine. There is absolutely no way around it.
As far as the adapter, i would keep it. they CAN be a pain, but it's there for a reason. do replace the hoses though. The gaskets aren't too hard to grab, in fact already got the damn part number for you lol https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-82560-Adapter-Cooler-Assortment/dp/B000COBCJC
- put some grease or oil on both sides of the paper gasket prior to install