What are /r/tasmota's favorite Products & Services?

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I would pass on those even if they are free. Horrible design and never would work right even on stock.

That original Martin Jerry dimmer still Tuya converts and it is built right into Tasmota so no template needed, just pick PWM Dimmer put of configure module screen.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FXYSVR1

I have used something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EDU3XU

Any two gang cover should work (as long as it is for the standard size used by all the smart switches).

Alternatively you can use your existing switches with a smart relay behind each like a Shelly 1.

You might be able to use something like <em>THIS</em> to do the actual switching and drive it with a smart plug or switch. I use one for my 1500 watt bathroom heater driven by a smart switch.

In a word, no. What exactly are you trying to achieve?

Each channel is driven by a 35A MOSFET, so I'm not sure why you're worried about splitting a 2.5A load. (2.5A * 24V = 60W)

If you execute a SetOption68 1, you can split the 5channel RGB+CW+WW signal into five discrete single-channel PWM outputs, each with power monitoring, dimming, and on/off control. If that's still not enough, you can use inline RGB amplifiers like this to inject more power if you have dimming/color shift due to voltage sag in a long LED string.

If you buy a set of hook leads like these it'll make your life easier for 5 bucks, they clip right on the pads at the edge of the S31's no soldering required. 10 minutes tops from popping the case to plugging it in and setting it up.

I know this was a couple of months ago, but I found flashable plugs that I bought from Amazon. The seller on Amazon is OHMAXX, but they're Gosund UP111 plugs and I've been able to successfully flash them:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09QQCWVNN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1

Had 3 batches, ranging from 03/2021 to 04/2021 dates. All worked fine.

Well done :) Always a good feeling.

That's how I initially started. Then heard about "hook clips" and never looked back!

Hey man, thanks for your work. I donated 15$ 3 days ago when I found your work. I'll try to donate 2-3$ per device I flash when i get the build environment up.

Can you supply a bin, or does each person need to compile it themselves?

Last night i de soldered a we3e module and put on a esp8266-12. Working like a champ. If i get time I'll post a small write up as i had to pull down gpio15 due to the boot mode being wrong. The device is a garage door sensor and opener. Lomota Smart Wi-Fi Garage Door Opener Remote, Tuya Smart Life APP Control, Work with Alexa, Google Assistant, No Hub Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086MKP14K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_AWMV5RRJVCKCH9ZHEQ4Q?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Seconded! Plus the OpenVPN Connect app works great on phones and tablets. I use it to connect remotely to Blue Iris, Home Assistant, and home PCs. My router firewall blocks all access to the Internet from all IoT devices. I run a local NTP time service on a PC, and all Tasmota devices get their time from that local service.

Look up the Linkind ones guide to flash here

I have the Treatlife single poles, the Treatlife Dimmers, and the Treatlife Fan Dimmers throughout the house. I'm considering buying 6 more dimmers and one last fan control to replace the last ZWave stuff I have before they switch to another chip that cant run Tasmota.

I've got to play with them though because I need 2 pairs of them configured in 3 way, The switches don't work right when wired in 3 way with a smart switch on both ends so I'm thinking I'll just disconnect the load on one side and keep them in sync via software.

I haven't flashed it yet, but I'm using this one outside now and it seems fine.

https://templates.blakadder.com/bn-link_BNC-60_U130T.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JQSX11M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Grab the MAC address of the floodlight from your router's admin page and look it up here. If you see Espressif as the manufacturer, it's flashable (assuming it's not an ESP32 with the eFuse burned, but that's not super common at the moment).

You would need to open it up and serial flash it though, and that could prove to be difficult depending on the device. Tuya-convert isn't an option since magic home doesn't use Tuya's backend.

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MGF7L2R

You ROCK! This worked perfectly. I am now able to OTA my software to these strips. Still looking around to a smaller power strip that has a ESP based chip, but this keeps me going for now. Thanks so much

Gosund WP6 opened

I'm a bit late to this post but just in case you still have the plugs here are my experiences with flashing them. The plugs are easy enough to open with a small flat tip screw driver. Use the screw driver to pry in between the grey backing and the white casing. Work the screw driver around the casing until the grey backing separates from the case.

I used a dremel to cut off the section shown in the picture to get better access to the wifi chip on the plug. Note: the ac plug prongs are welded to the grey plastic backing.

If you use a set of mini grabbers or similar probes you will only need to solder 2 wires (the RX and TX connections). The voltage and ground locations can be attached using the grabbers.

The GPIO0 is behind the LED as seen in the picture and can be a pain to get to without desoldering the wifi chip. If you desolder the wifi chip use a low watt 15w soldering iron as the pads are extremely easy to lift. I used a hand held probe like the ones on multimeters and held it on to the GPIO0 location. The other end of that probe was attached to ground with an alligator clip.

This is what I used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TBLZTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 . It took some patience though, and you need another Dupont pin for the 3.3V, but it worked eventually for all my 8 switches. I didn't try the jig method because I didn't own a 3d printer back then. So I don't know which method is easier.

You can find cheaper sets and maybe one with less grabbers but I like the extra this set came with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083PRVPCR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_6D8CVCG01XGXXF299EFN?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Hey! I watch all your videos!

I got some Gosund dimmers at first because they looked pretty. I loved the way the dimmer part worked by just touch. After flashing them with Tasmota Scripting I ran into a bunch of issues. I ran the script from blakadder that was supposed to fix the dimming portion, but it just didn't work. I found a custom bin off cocoontech, and that "sorta" worked with commands. However the touch panel still didn't work and for some odd reason a power off command after the lights had been off would turn them back on?

I threw in the towel and went with these. Was so much easier to flash and configure. Set my dimming range for my recessed LED's and everything is running smooth!

It's funny you replied because I was going to try and message you on YouTube about these Martin Jerry Trailing Edge Dimmers. I haven't been able to find much about them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LQPN2J3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_MWWBC8R1162DQGQDE1XN

So, I would recommend two apps on Android store, which will fulfill my needs I think:

1. Tasmota Control on Android
2. HTTP Shortcuts on Android

Dude - many thanks for this! After tuya-converting the first box of 4, I ordered 5 more boxes!

For anyone else interested, these are the ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T7W7ZMW . These are UL-listed, and currently there is a 25% coupon offer, so it's $23 for 4 bulbs.

I used this template: https://templates.blakadder.com/lohas-ZN033.html

Well it's a bit chaotic but generally no from what I can tell.

e.g.

Teckin SP23 v1 (16A, square) - yes OTA. No longer available & store front has silently replaced/relinked it to v2s

Teckin SP23 v2 (13A, round) - no. I gather they moved away from ESP8266

Slitinto - yes OTA, but with bleak success rate. Like 50% which wrecks the economics. Or maybe I just fkd it up...hard to tell

(both the OTA ones above need tasmota config "BlitzWolf SHP Module")

...also note that the square ones tend to not fit many UK wall sockets cause the on/off switch of the socket is in the way

Sam exact rookie mistake I made.

This one, and others like it, has a pin/hole for 3v3

Yizhet 2X FTDI Serial Adapter FT232RL USB to TTL Adapter 3.3V/5V Module Mini Port for Arduino and Raspberry Pi https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07R17BMTL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_ZPJ-Fb68Q5QSG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

You are probably asking for the easy way with tuya convert. ESP8266 based devices are still flashable with upgraded firmware, just not OTA. I got these 3 weeks ago, and tuya convert worked: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8ZNNPZ .

I purchased these about 3 weeks ago

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDGYYN7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

and they flashed fine with tuya-convert.

They have energy monitoring

Confirming as well. Both TGWF115PRM and TGWF115APM converted successfully using tuya-convert (December 7, 2020).

Can confirm TGWF115PRM Topgreener still flashed for me. Ordered Saturday and received 11/30. Mix of v1.0.0 and v1.0.1 all flashed first attempt. (After angry returning a set of bnc60s)

Amazon TGWF115PRM

Used Ubuntu desktop in VBOX VM with cana kit usb wifi adapter.

Follow tuya-convert instructions.

After verifying AP with phone, plug outlet into power, immediately hold the button, hold for @ 10 secs, should start flashing green, hit enter on keyboard.

&#x200B;

All three of the Topgreener sockets seem to have the same template. Just changed the name.

{"NAME":"TGWF115PRM","GPIO":[0,56,0,17,134,132,0,0,131,57,21,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":18}

&#x200B;

Calibration based on killawatt reading with 350w steady load. YMMV.

VoltageCal 4628

PowerCal 38426

CurrentCal 9608

UPDATE (10-28-20)

I ended up purchasing this https://www.amazon.com/LED-LOHAS-2700K-6000K-Daylight-Equivalent/dp/B07T7W7ZMW

I have successfully flashed the bulb using this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dt5-iZc4_qU&amp;feature=emb_title and using the latest Tasmota v8.1.0.2

UPDATE (10-28-20)

I ended up purchasing this https://www.amazon.com/LED-LOHAS-2700K-6000K-Daylight-Equivalent/dp/B07T7W7ZMW

I have successfully flashed the bulb using this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dt5-iZc4_qU&amp;feature=emb_title and using the latest Tasmota v8.1.0.2

UPDATE (10-28-20)

I ended up purchasing this https://www.amazon.com/LED-LOHAS-2700K-6000K-Daylight-Equivalent/dp/B07T7W7ZMW

I have successfully flashed the bulb using this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dt5-iZc4_qU&amp;feature=emb_title and using the latest Tasmota v8.1.0.2

I’ve just converted a bunch of TOPGREENER plugs successfully: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDGYYN7/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_g.mwFbX76H7KM

The conversion process was straightforward. The only one I messed up was my fault.

Hi, can you please steer me in the right direction, I can not flash my switches via Tuya-Convert or even with FTDI adapter hard wired to the TYWE1S chip.

This is the link to the Switch that I purchased last week. https://www.amazon.com/Treatlife-Incandescent-Compatible-Assistant-Single-Pole/dp/B07PJTLB7Z/ref=pd_lpo_60_t_0/144-7977739-9249917?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07PJTLB7Z&amp;pd_rd_r=2e0a895e-4992-4f57-a80b-dcc16c47ca54&amp;pd_rd_w=lB1am&amp;pd_rd_wg=saBXQ&amp;pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&amp;pf_rd_r=VBAEQ375NF6KBFVDGX9H&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=VBAEQ375NF6KBFVDGX9H

TIA.

You may also want to double check that they’re really bricked. I saw a post a while back about re-running tuya convert on them, that they sometimes just aren’t broadcasting the ssid, or something along those lines. I’ll try to find it. I just have a cheapo ftdi from Amazon. It works fine, just wish it had a micro usb instead of mini usb connection. HiLetgo FT232RL FTDI Mini USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module 3.3V 5.5V FT232R Breakout FT232RL USB to Serial Mini USB to TTL Adapter Board for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HLWtFbHJ4XHWM