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Tinted yellow but clear enough to see if there is bubbles in it.
This is the stuff I used. It is spendy for fuel hose but I had some left over from working on my truck. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PHDLBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_Y9EQ1GKQ6ZJVAGEQN97E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They are just knock off pods from amazon I think they are these ones. Super cheap but very effective.
Here's a random example if you're curious. Category 1 BHM5600 3 Point Hitch PTO Hydraulic Farm Backhoe
It's a bit a wild idea, but the thought is, if something like this is within the weight capacity of the 3-point hitch it when it's all folded up, some fabrication of steel could be designed that locks and attaches it rigidly to the tractor frame when deployed.
I'm a hobbyist welder with STEM background, and could do some shadetree structural analysis if absolute necessary. I fairly new to tractors,diesel, and especially hydraulics.
One simple thing you could do, during use, is to have a Kill-A-Watt plugged into an outlet, and keep an eye on the power frequency. It should be 60 Hz, ideally. I don't know what might be considered a "spec" for frequency, but my 5500W generator's service manual had you set it to 61-63 Hz (I think) with no load, and as a load was added, the frequency would drop to/slight-below 60Hz. I think I was seeing around 57-58Hz on mine, at nearly a full load.
If the tractor's engine power (or its governor-sensitivity) are not quite up to the task, you'll see that 60Hz start dropping, and you'll have one hint that you're overloading it. For most tractor purposes, the governor's control over the engine speed may be perfectly fine, but it's possible that it will allow more RPM-sag than you'd want, when running a generator.
A Kill-A-Watt will also show you the output voltage, I believe the voltage is supposed to stay over 110V. If you're seeing low voltage, or low frequency, that's a hint that something is not keeping up with the demand. Whether that's the generator, the wiring from the generator to the house (which will only impact voltage, of course, not frequency), etc.
You can also get devices to help monitor the draw through your transfer panel. I added a Reliance box with inductive measurements off the transfer panel wiring, showing me what is flowing from the generator. That was a nice way to help understand my draw, with different loads, so I had a sense of how close I was to overloading the generator.
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU
Something sorta like this. But you can probably find something at your local tractor supply store.
If you used hydraulics you would probably need to add a pto pump to your tractor as most tractors don’t have enough flow to run motors. But you can use hydraulics to run your carriage and other parts of the mill.
I know you already spent hard earned cash on that quick hitch, but let me drop some equally hard earned knowledge on you. The quick hitch works great on 4 out of 5 implements, but with a rotary cutter like yours it causes more problems than it solves. Get a Pat's Easy Change instead. Sure you may spend 2 more minutes when you switch implements, but it just plain works on everything the same. You only have to worry about the top link which you will need to adjust anyway even with the quick hitch. I wish someone had told me when I was spending $$.
Pat's Easy Change with Stabilizer Bar - Best Quick Hitch System On The Market – Flexible, Durable and Affordable (RED CAT #2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GQFJW2J/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5YG8WDVVAK1KFA4BS41Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've seen this before. They make some that work pretty well as is. Unfortunately, they aren't available in sizes that fit my mx: https://smile.amazon.com/Oatey-33403-Plastic-Galvanized-4-Inch/dp/B000H5T1PI
Ooo lolly . . .. I want to say yes. . But then I know there are garbage products that only read voltage and not the amps. When you looking for one, look for one that can tell the "CCA" of the battery. "CCA" stands for Colds Cranking Amps.
If you clue me into where you live in the world I can try to source on locally for you. Or if you have Amazon.
1955 1956 1957 1958 1959 1960 FORD TRACTOR REPAIR SHOP SERVICE MANUAL 800 series: 820, 850, 860. 801 series: 811, 841, 851, 861, 871, 881. 900 series 950, 960.901 series 941, 951, 961, 971, 981& 1801 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I508HDY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_Y0ZMP8BJZ1ZDJN6063RX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A shear bolt is soft and designed to fail under a load that is outside of the operating specifications of the machine before the other metal parts in your attachments fail. A regular bolt, irrespective of grade, is not designed to fail. I recommend you purchase a multi-pak of grade 2 shear bolts on Amazon. Use exactly what the manufacturer calls for. Do not let anyone else cajole or bully you into using anything else to substitute. If someone suggests just using whatever fits, that person is giving you bad advice. If you are constantly breaking grade 2 shear bolts and you have proven to yourself through thorough perusal of the owner's manual that grade 2 is the proper part, do not replace with grade 5, chances are that there is some other part of the attachment or linkage that is not being properly maintenanced or is malfunctioning. Your PTO drive shaft should be greased every time you change implements, along the shaft and at every zerk. The gearbox should be examined and checked for proper oil level every time you use it even if that is every day. The mower should be raised and examined for debris or any impedinent. Here is an Amazon link for a set of shear bolts.
Replacement Shear Bolt for Gearboxes by Rancher Supply – Shear Bolts ½’’x 3-½’’, Grade 2 with ½’’ Nut for Rotary Cutters (5 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VCTYXFY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_BP06VXW61XWADQE29THD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/IMPCO-Model-Forklift-Fuel-Converter/dp/B004KNH2EK
You can rebuild yours for about $50 or just buy a beand new assembled unit for $20 more and save and hour of cleaning tar out of the old one.
The part attached to the inlet of the vaporizer looks like just a filter. It probably has a porous bronze element inside that may be gummed up.
On my BX it is waaaaay up under there, and it's so low I can't get the trailer jack folded up - I have to lift the trailer, fold the jack, and lower it down. I use something kinda like this and it works perfect.
Or buy this. ECOTRIC 3 Point 2" Receiver Trailer Hitch Category 1 Tractor Tow Hitch Drawbar Adapter with One Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1DP96U/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_PZXBS1KG9XFZ95RGZPJ9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/315764132420931/ - this is the one I saw, they do look similar. But as I mentioned in my other post, would that cab be air conditioned because in the summer it seems like you’d cook in it if not
Ok yeah, i’ve seen them, seems like it would really depend on what they are needed for, like depth, swing and whether you need the loader bucket at the same time. Have you considered something like this? You can usually buy them much cheaper than a tractor mounted one if budget is an issue. https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Backhoe-Excavator-Garden-Digger/dp/B08P25QD1X/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1BWXL809OSDZR&dchild=1&keywords=towable+backhoe&qid=1632591612&sprefix=towable+back&sr=8-3
As an alternative to a grapple I have a set of these bolt on forks I use on my backhoe. They are pretty light (compared to a graple) and work quite well for getting under logs then just roll the bucket and you've got them. It doesn't do brush great though so I use my brush hog for that. If decide to go with those make sure you size them for your FEL's lift capacity or if they are too long you may bend your bucket. I'd also recommend the cross brace, doesn't take much to kick them sideways without it. That said the TZ24DA is a bit light for serious log moving, I'd look for something larger if you have the room to store it.
Klein tools makes a magnetic Bluetooth speaker .
I've never seen one that didn't have a glass bowl. Amazon link.
Lol, that's a good reason to get mower blades. Have you checked if some generic mower blades will fit? Like this?
If you want to get it running cheap, I would almost bet the carb needs to be rebuilt and the fuel pump is also most likely bad.
That engine should be a K341, Check the tag on the engine. If it is, I literally just bought one of these kits from Amazon for $33 for a buddies Kohler powered Air compressor.
The only thing we changed was on the fuel pump. We had to rotate the top. Take the 4 screws out turn it so the inlet and outlet line up and put the screws back in. Put a little grease on the o rings before you slide the fittings into the pump.
Your estimate on required power is about right. I have lifted 3000 pound pallets of concrete with these forks on a 67 hp Cat 416 TLB. That was about as heavy as I'd ever want to go - the pressure in the tilt cylinder was higher than pump pressure (but not higher than the relief valve) so I could no longer tilt the bucket up once the pallet was lifted.
I've never seen a set like that. On a side note, they make a specific punch for roll pins.
Found another one, so I was wrong that they don't make ATV tires in 23". I'd have to check the load rating on these.
so, i guess this is what he wants http://www.amazon.com/Kubota-B7000-Operators-Manual-Special/dp/B007HOE38M
and he's unsure of the price since it appears to be a photocopied book and the seller doesn't ship to where he is. based on the fact that we can't find it anywhere, i think this is all he's going to find