What are /r/wastelandwarfare's favorite Products & Services?

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You could use BlueStacks, which is an android emulator. https://www.bluestacks.com/ I haven't tried it for the FWW app, but I have used it for other games and it's worked fine.

Wave cards are just the stats for each minature some also come woth weapons and scenarios newer waves have had all the cards released in a book together making it much more economical and convenient. If you want the rpg you'll want to buy the starter set for that https://www.amazon.com/Modiphius-Entertainment-Fallout-Roleplaying-Tabletop/dp/B0B7CR2RJW?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It’s this one on Amazon. But I wouldn’t call it good at all. Also mind that the way it’s oriented in the tower means that only less than half of the resolution is used at all. Had to edit the video to rotate and shrink it to the lower half of the projected area. This is by no means suitable for actually watching stuff. https://www.amazon.de/Vamvo-Pro-Mini-Projektor-Filmprojektor-Unterst%C3%BCtzt-Kindergeschenk/dp/B08CDBC5LK

Also it was cheaper when I got it, I think.

This should be a pretty good start. Just add a brown and a black wash and some metallics. (Steel, copper, maybe gold).

You also have to clean your miniatures a lot and then apply a primer before painting. Here I think citadel spray paints is a solid choice. You can search in forums for cheaper brands that work in your country though. Nowadays I always do a black primer followed by a quick white primer from above to make shadows and make it easier to see all details. With a priming like that you can paint with very thin paints and the model pretty much paints itself since all details are already highlighted.

Another option is the citadel “contrast paints”. They are supposed to be very quick to use if you know how to paint with them, I’ve seen a lot of horrible paintjobs with them though.

This is what I bought. It’s currently unavailable though. I don’t know where you are from but Harbor Freight here in the eastern US has them for even cheaper. MEIJIA Portable All Weather Waterproof Camera Case with Foam,Fit Use of Drones,Camera,Equipments,Pistols,Elegant Black,15.98x12.99x6.85inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RYHL69R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_G6NG4VK585EHHFM79K60?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control, 4-Gram Bottle (1739050) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ELV2D0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_M213CH0TSVPZQCB93EGM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I pretty much only use this with miniatures anymore. Have used it with FWW miniatures and have had no issues. Just built a bunch of models and based them last night. I'll also wash them after I've assembled them and have no issues.

tl;dr: I use a 1/4 inch drill bit and drill into the bottom of the base.

Long: I use a 1/4 inch drill bit and I drill into the bottom of the base. It sounds jenky, but as long as you position your drill under a slightly raised point on the base, you can easily go 3mm deep. And for those that don't have a raised point, I just go for broke and drill till I'm deep enough or until I can't anymore. I know I'm at max depth when I can hold the base up to a light and I can see the defused light, where there's nothing but a hair's breadth of resin left.

I use a pin vise to drill a small pilot hole first to seat the 1/4", then follow with the 1/4". I use 6x2mm magnets (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KJ9H31P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1). I make sure to go a tad deeper and not to have them flush with the bottom, otherwise they're a little too strong for my liking, but a millimeter set into the base and they stick enough and aren't difficult to remove from the metal sheet. I also position the magnet to one side of the base, to have some leverage, so removal from their sheet metal housing is as easy as possible. Sometimes that's not possible, and placing the magnet towards the center is a must.

My friend of mine made his own game tokens out of metal. A happy accident to be sure, he can now place tokens onto the bases of his minis and they'll stick.

I personally wouldn't use large magnets with these minis. The resin can be brittle, and some of the connection points are rail thin. Taking a magnetized mini off it's housing might break the connection and rip the mini right off the base.

The hardest things for ITWL is keeping track of AI states (as they have the new natural mode) and setup time for encounters. The AI state stuff you'll just get use to but I do find having a token to signal if they're in their non-combat AI helpful as you can have a lot of the same model on the table using the same cards.

I use card binder sheets made for xwing that can fit 1 unit card and several item cards for units so they can be quickly placed down as well as stored when needed. Basically good record keeping is required for campaigns here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CS104FE/

Because I keep the cards in premade sets I have to have a custom card deck that's just smaller index like cards with unit names for the encounter draw deck. Then I can just grab the unit drawn with the loadout I want and it's ready to play. This will be your biggest time sink if you dont have things pre-made.

Outside of that it's really figuring out why you're playing ITWL? There's a mini hex crawl campaign in the book that's perfectly serviceable but there's lots of other reasons to use it like Settlement mode.

I say no. I got these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARJ9AT0/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1, which are 41mm x 63mm and sometimes if I turn the pages too quickly, the cards will start to sneak out. I'm pretty sure I've lost a card or two in transport because of this.

I would not trust anything bigger.

Thank you a ton for the reply. This answered my question perfectly. I am looking at this

ELEGOO Saturn MSLA 3D Printer UV Photocuring LCD Resin 3D Printer with 4K Monochrome LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086283SQJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JHHZZ78GV1YQP4HN2RW1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

which seems to be big enough to print most everything but the VertiBird. Is the monochrome what you meant by mono?

I've found that the clear gorilla glue was no good. I've used the gorilla brush & nozzle super glue since though and that's been perfect both for application and adhering. I've found for any particularly tricky joints I've put the tiniest of blobs of green stuff at the joint and then glued and that's done the trick, but that's only occurred maybe two or three times across 200 models

I got a Mr handy with one of the boxes.

Fallout Wasteland Warfare Survivors Heroes of Sanctuary Hills Miniatures https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKTHJRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_trN1FbC8YKMBD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1