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How long and thick are the pins? Here’s a kit that has down to 6mm without the quick release bar. If you can go up to 10mm length then I found some other quick release spring bars on Amazon too.
I might find a higher quality item than this exact link. But you get the idea.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01C27A45O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ARSZG8NMPS14F76BKNJB
I'm not quite to the point of making watches from scratch yet, but I've been "frankening" for about a year now. Here's what I'd recommend:
1) Buy some cheap homage watches made in China, from AliExpress or even TaoBao.
2) Get a simple watch repair kit from Amazon (this is just one example, they come in a variety of prices) and take the watches apart, which will help you learn how to put them together again. Hopefully.
3) Mod, mod, mod. Change the hands out for another set; find a better dial; swap the cheap movement out for a more reliable version. Once you start getting a knack for how the parts work together you can better get a feel for how to shop for the right parts.
I've learned to start with the movement. I'm a fan of the asian 2813s because they come in a variety of configurations, and because they're often used in cheap replicas there's a large assortment of dials, hands, cases, and even add-on date wheel overlays for them. The downside is that about half of them die after a few months. But you've got the tools to fix it, which just means more fun for you!
Or, of course, you can do things the right way and go to watch school and make your movements from scratch like a grown up, but where's the fun in that?
I bought this one
A few weeks ago. It's a classic. Very technical oriented.
Here’s my idea for the top right segment:
Square One, divide it into three long rectangles for the hands. Now each hand is contained more securely with less room to float around
Square Two, give it a porous pattern that the dial can lock into like one of these dial holders. Now the dial is secured in it’s own segment.
Square Three, maybe make the compartment a larger footprint of the general shape of a watch case, for holding the case
Square Four, same idea as square three but a circle for holding the crystal
When I have a watch fully disassembled, I have the standard circle dust tray for all the parts. Another one for the case and crystal. A dial case for the dial, and a membrane case for the hands.
It would be cool if your one container could do the job of all four of those.
Really a search for "cold blue" gave you nothing?
Same stuff as they use for guns and machinery bits.
Amazon Warehouse (used) frequently has Amscope products starting under $100. They come in a huge variety of configurations, so it can be daunting figuring which models are best. I use one for soldering, so the size of parts and tools is similar to watchmaking.
The first link below only has a 2" (50mm) working distance, so it may be difficult to get tools in. Would work great for inspecting parts, less so for working on the movement under the scope.
The second has a 9" (230mm) working distance so it would be suitable for working on the movement under the scope.
I use something similar. Kids got a huge package of 36 slimes, each in a little tub like that, so I have tons of little colored trays like that. Great for dials & calendar wheels.
No problem man! Again, I do want to stress I am NOT a medical professional of any kind. Just some guy who has read a lot of these threads.
This is the Geiger Counter that I got. Unfortunately, a Geiger counter is useless in measuring radium unless it detects alpha, and only the expensive ones detect alpha.
oh and george daniels book watchmaking
i bought a small kit and a few individual tools to supplement it just off amazon, but i already need/want a few nicer screwdrivers and a sharpening stone as well as one or two more tweezers. (brass and wood tipped) i pucked up some hand removal and hand setting tools, plus dial protectors but you can use diy solutions for those. oils and oilers and a cup set are next for me. i mostly started by doing quartz battery changes and bracelet sizing/strap swaps so i could eventually get good enough to repair my vostok, but now im completely committed to becoming a watchmaker lol
Not 100% certain but check out this book - the watch repairers manual.
Got the basket off of amazon. This one fits in a wide mouth mason jar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058ECYIY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Welded on the upper bars so that I can chuck it into a drill.
I bought this one, to check for radium contamination in a lot of watch and clock repair tools that I recently got. I also bought a cheaper $80 one off of Amazon. While the cheaper one did measure a few of the items that I had gotten as containing radioactive material, the more expensive one definitely gave more accurate readings. I know this to be true, because I actually had representatives from an office of my state come out and check with their geiger counters to make sure I hadn’t contaminated my workspace, and also to properly dispose of the radium parts and any contaminated materials (watch hands, and another completely unmarked innocuous plastic box that had jewelry and watch band parts in it). I was able to check my geiger counter against their regulated check source on their much much more high quality and calibrated geiger counters, and wow the more expensive one I linked wasn’t 100% accurate, it was still much more sensitive in it’s readings then the cheap one and closer to accurate.
For while my main focus is mainly learning my way around my watches I picked up a mystery Amazon special instead of 9010 (for all of my low and also medium friction parts) and also this grease for any high friction parts or inside the barrel if I pick up an automatic. I know they won’t measure up, but I was trying to save a little cost after my press and ultrasonic and everything in one go. I’d let you know how they go, but I’m not sure what I’d be comparing to if I’m being honest!
Try this for key words. Search around watch sites for the best one. Normally used for coil repair as well. Some YouTube videos repairing Casio's if I remember
https://www.amazon.co.uk/0-2ML-Silver-Conductive-Electrically-Repair/dp/B00HNHUZ08
A cheap set like this is good value:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07STW7VZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_GWHM533TYCBTK9V41AWH
Especially as it includes the watch back press which you’ll need at some point anyway.
Get a copy of Donald De Carle’s famous book on watch repair too. Last thing you need is standard watch oil.
The book will take you through the entire process of cleaning a watch.
Go on eBay, buy a cheap working pocket watch. Now disassemble it without killing it. That’s your start in horology. Cheap and cheerful and if you don’t enjoy it then at least you haven’t wasted hundreds of dollars/pounds on stuff you’ll never use again.
I really liked it. As long as you come up with a system to remember where everything is. I added the link. Brrnoo Non Slip Rubber Mat, Watch Repair Table Mat, Watchmaker Maintenance Accessory, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJYQSDH/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_V13C77RAJ8BXDD2F81CG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bought it to practice with, the only tools I have really are some amazon watch repair kit:
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B09777T5M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the advice! I know this will really help. Been wanting to get into the hobby for a while now but it really just looks daunting to start! Hoping to learn more through experience.
Yes it's possible, but if you want 50 stops and starts every 360°, you'll need to design a new watch/clock from scratch. Ultimately, without a lot of time and/or money the project will probably end up short of expectations. Sorry
What about using a flip clock though?
https://www.amazon.com/Betus-Retro-Style-Shelf-Clock/dp/B06Y689533/ref=asc_df_B06Y689533
Looking at the pictures you want something like this (plenty of other designs)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001MJ0JUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_0DDD8SF5RWTH63V8K6PC
But, I'd be careful, the groves to fit it in don't look very deep, make sure you put a cloth or a plastic bag over so you don't scratch it if the tool slips.
To be honest, if it's got a reasonable movement in you shouldn't need to change the battery for a couple years
I would start with this