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replacing that now myself!
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is that a heritage?
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so instead of $70 for a new fiberbaffle, i found (through the other mod) k20 (lightweight "soft") firebrick that was under $40, custom cut to size, and will last a lifetime. ebay seller. super helpful mom and pop business
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edit: if its a heritage 8021 this is the oem part https://www.amazon.com/Lynn-Manufacturing-Replacement-Hearthstone-Heritage/dp/B071VG7L3B/ref=asc\_df\_B071VG7L3B/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241901674013&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1239406921522923829&hvpone=&hvptwo=...
They seem to work pretty well but aren’t very cost effective. I recommend something like this instead. Same active ingredients and about the same price but one of the buckets will last you at least a couple seasons. You just toss a scoop of it onto your coals a couple times a week so it’s super easy to use. The trick is remembering to do it:)
I love this, thanks for the idea!
If you're not completely married to the idea of using SMS for alerts, check out pushover. You can trigger an alert with just one http request, and it will handle the recurring notification until acknowledgment part for you.
I'm sure there are other apps that do the same thing, pushover just happens to be the one I've used before.
Its hard to tell what size gasket would fit that. Looks like 3/8in. But install and do a dollar bill test to check. Heres a link to a better rope. Amazon
For those interested in doing this but can’t find a manual battery charger. I did the same thing and then got to thinking about it and really all a battery charger is is a DC power supply. I looked up a bench DC power supply on Amazon and ordered one like this:
DC Power Supply Variable,0-30 V / 0-10 A LW-K3010D Adjustable Switching Regulated Power Supply Digital,with Alligator Leads US Power Cord Used for Spectrophotometer and lab Equipment Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07512KQDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K18K4993182DZHZPKP0H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Worked absolutely wonderful and for $55. Hope this helps someone.
I have a similar stove, a Buck from the early 80s. The variable speed box on mine was shot when we bought the house. My solution was to take the motor off, scrub 30 years of lint out of the blades, and install an ordinary cut-down extension cord with plug on the motor.
I plugged it into one of these, and it runs great:
Casolly Variable Fan Speed Controller for Exhaust Duct Inline Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BMR4THQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_DGYMlk2lP4QTj
Nice! If you ever get tired of those ov’ gloves, I had them for a bit, but upgraded to welding gloves and find they work a lot better for me. Though I might just need them because I have a small firebox and am a crazy person who likes to constantly handle burning logs.
You can buy the gasket at Amazon
Midwest Hearth Wood Stove Replacement Gasket for Woodburning Stoves - Graphite Impregnated Fiberglass Gaskets (11/16" x 3/16" x 54" Flat Tape w/Self Adhesive Back) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0190YY796/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_uQ70FbT1T4X9A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You need 5/16" gasket w/wire mesh. Amazon has some for sale, or you can try your local hearth store. You will also need gasket cement.
The gloves are from Amazon and I can’t say enough good things about them. I can pick up and move logs that are on fire and I don’t feel a thing. Very nice. Link below. The mat on the floor is a non combustible from Woodland Direct.
welcome to buying chinese made wood stoves.... but as long as the interior pipe is inside it should work, however duravent does make a stove collar adapter for double wall you probably want to use that https://www.amazon.com/DURAVENT-6DVL-AD-DVL-Appliance-Adapter/dp/B005I8S650
Try a chimney brush. I clean mine every 2 years. Never had a problem.
i bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013X0NQT0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$21, works well
I have a front vent. When the draw is just right with the damper near closed my stove will whistle. When we hear that we have a good draw and the stove will burn all night, 8 hrs, and we will have coals to start next fire. When I can’t get that whistle I have to break out my chimney sweepand clean my chimney.
Not bad. I have something like this and it works well.
If you have a wood stove, chimfex would be better as that'll cut off the source of the fire better than this. The fire would be out of reach. This product looks like it'll be better in a basement/crawl space where if a fire were to break out, you wouldn't know until too late and the fire is more likely to come out into the room.
If you have an open fireplace that's left unattended (I would strongly advise against that), then this product makes more sense but again, an open fireplace shouldn't be left unattended. A wood stove can be left unattended (provided you took appropriate steps) since the fire is contained.
Oh so perhaps I can't clean the flue from inside the firebox? I guess I never stuck my head in there to look, but, that would make a lot of sense considering the catalytic burner and whatnot.
So I'd put something like this at the bottom near the stove: https://www.amazon.com/DVL-Double-Wall-Black-Tee-Clean-Out/dp/B001J21Y1W and that'd make cleaning a breeze from below.
You might enjoy the writings of John Silverio - a little technicaly and a little philosophical. He is an architect and many of his designs (especially his own home) is designed around a central woodstove and heating with wood. https://www.amazon.com/Hearthspire-Designing-Wood-Heated-John-Silverio/dp/1461150612/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1311682363&sr=1-1
It does look glassy/glazed. A liner would greatly help cut down how quickly the creosote will form. It's odd the guy didn't have a chemical solution to the problem.
You can burn those chimney sweep logs to make cleaning easier but depending on how built up the creosote is, you risk starting a fire because it has to go in after a hot fire to burn fully. I have a triple wall exterior chimney so my risk tolerance is higher than yours so tread carefully. Once it catches it does not stop and will increase the amount you'll need to pay on top of the liner.
What I would recommend is if you DO go this route, order a Chimfex extinguisher. It has good reviews to get a chimney fire under control. Not sure what kind of damage it does but it's better than losing your house. Good luck.
Like any powertool, use caution and safety equipment. Steel toed boots, chainsaw chaps, good gloves, a face shield type forestry helmet. And probably goggles under the wire face shield.
Keep the chain sharp with the Pferd dual chain file in the correct file size for your saw chain. You won't find anything else that is as easy or efficient to use.
Amazon sells attachments for a drill that work well for stove cleaning.
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Can sometimes clean the stove up the flu from inside the stove/house.
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Might have to go up on the roof and clean it top down if the snow melts.
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Dont forget to check and clean the catalytic combuster (if present).
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You're probably fine to go all season without clean/clean in the spring time but I usually clean halfway thru the winter as I like to be extra safe.
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Truth is as long as youre burning well seasoned hardwood there usually is not much creosote buildup in these new EPA woodstoves.
6 cords is plenty
I use something like this. I've only used it once to see if it worked and it worked fine. You are probably taking more material off than you you by hand but it takes less than 5 minutes and you are ready to go. There are plenty of videos on YouTube about how to do it.
We use something that is basically this (though it's a hand-me-down, so I don't know where it came from). It works great! It's also a great place to dry wet jackets, mittens, hats, cloth diapers...etc! I'll kinda miss it when kiddo is old enough to remove it! :)
I've had one of these Estwing Hand Mauls for several years now. With a 5 pound hand sledge, I can split quite a variety down to kindling.
As others have said easy fix on the door gasket. There are various available but something like this one would probably work.
Definitely have the chimney inspected and cleaned by a professional before lighting 'er up. They can probably replace the gasket for you, too.
Easiest way to check for a good seal on that gasket is to just close a dollar bill in the door, latch it and try to pull the dollar bill out with the door closed. It should be pinched in there pretty tightly and not pull out easily. Do this in various places around the door to check for air-tightness.
I got an East Wing hand maul a couple years ago. That and a 5 lb. hand sledge makes a pile of starter wood in minutes.
I note that fire starters went way up in price over the past year or two. I always liked the Diamond Strike-A-Fire, but they got expensive too. Sounds like I'm heading to the woods for fat lighter.
Upvote for the Estwing Hand Maul. I've used mine for so long it's becoming mushroomed where I hit it with a 5 lb. hand sledge. And like you, I have to get the wood I'm splitting up a little or my back will give me trouble.
I literally just purchased this one…
Cheap as chips, but seems to do the job nicely!!!
Magnetic Stove Thermometer Fire Stove Thermometer Gauge for Wood Log Chimney Oven Temperature Meter (1) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0813KSLS9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0MGRSWR41TPXEAWR1EW8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thermometer: Magnetic Stove Thermometer Fire Stove Thermometer Gauge for Wood Log Chimney Oven Temperature Meter (1) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0813KSLS9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VYFG62FEHD624Z7J49RE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Fan: Deal: 4 Blade Fireplace Fan for Wood Burners Log Burner/ Silent Operation Heat Distribution https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08XMNX4CP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_MEMAWEEF9X7TE5TXRR9F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Pleasantly surprised by the effectiveness of the fan!! Like… yeah wow!
I can't tell a difference between this through the wall kit and the one next to it for 522$
Can you?
Limited-time deal: Duravent 6" DuraPlus Through the Wall Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZ9TN2C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_dl_HH2WH9NAE1S0HBM57PFC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have a few of these, nice to strap them up tight and stack the entire bundle...
Firewood Log Carrier Bag,Waxed Canvas Durable Large Fire Log Tote,Sturdy Fireplace Wood Stove Accessories Storage Bag for Fire Pit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07XFZ4FZB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_YS5NZG6QWGVZQKD0B44E
Firewood Cart Log Carrier Fireplace Wood Mover Hauler Rack Caddy Rolling Dolly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LSCVCSC/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_FB3AXT20HSKS8YENMNGX
I love it. Not sure how I lived without it. After destroying and fixing multiple wheel burrows, I needed something better. I was skeptical at first. I had visions of welding mesh across it to keep things from falling out. However it's not an issue at all.
This has lasted a two seasons so far. 1.5-2 cords a year.
INNO STAGE Heavy Duty Wax Canvas Log Carrier Tote,Large Fire Wood Bag,Durable Firewood Holder,Fireplace Wood Stove Accessories Storage Bag for Fire Pi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07915JNZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mLRtTpQ6JUVqs
I like these.
They don't weigh much, can adapt to the shape of the wood, are easy to store etc.
I don't have this exact one so I can not comment on the quality.
Old school was a mirror taped to a pole and a torch, still handy for inspecting a damper these days. generally I'd pop up onto the roof and lift the grill/guard cap off and drop/feed a length of chain down the flue a bit at a time to dislodge the built up creosote then you follow up with brushes. There's a bunch of how to's on Youtube and there's a WikiHow as well. https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Chimneys
Dagan Industries Black Steel Ash Brush and Cast Iron Shovel - 11.5 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007FGC0PA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XVW13QZEYE5FYNAB6KGD
Dump it back in the stove, dont want to risk an ember falling out and me putting it into the trash or wood bin. I also use a galvanized tub to move it back and forth in the house
Yes you’ve got it and yes that’s the stuff that’s falling down - vermiculite.
The outer seams are ok but it’s part around the pipe that’s the problem. This is the stuff that I put on at beginning of January and it’s already gone brittle and is falling away - Heat Resistant Sealant 1300 C - 310ml https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0046450C4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_CWWMC0CMKB4E0E5EX13J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I need something more flexible I think as this stuff sets like concrete and goes brittle
Thanks
I run into pipes like this a lot. We use a rotary brush for things like this and it works amazing. Might be a bit pricey but it makes life so much easier and you won't really need to take the pipe off as long as you go back and forth at high speed to pull any deposit settling in the horizontal.
Similar to this, but Lasko Brand. I think I paid $40
Vacmaster Red Edition AM201 1101 550 CFM Portable Air Mover Floor and Carpet Dryer for Drying and Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NWRXW2N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EFZ4B0FC1NERN2QY7403?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Absolutely. This is what I installed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q9X1GGY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
With this replacing the switch:
A couple of spade connectors and I got a new power cord from Home Depot to wire it all up. The wife loves the rheostat for speed control, so she can turn the speed down. Now we can have a conversation near the fire.
Yes there is Magnetic Thermostat Switch for Fireplace Blower Fan, Wood Stove, Gas Log Fireplace, Magnetic Temperature Switch ON at 120F, Off at 90F Approx https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5YQXCP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WZFQHFM7EVJTX7N3YC8V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just install something like this
Regalo 76 Inch Super Wide Configurable Baby Gate, 3-Panel, Includes Wall Mounts and Hardware
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024FAWSE/
You want enough space to make sure the baby cant reach the door while open through the slats and you have enough room in front to add wood comfortably.
Too close and the gate will get hot too.
I use a freestanding gate, but i have a different setup. I pack it up after the last fire of the year and store it with the tools.
I keep 2-3 days worth inside near the wood stove and the rest under a simple roof outdoors made of 2x4s and a sheet of marine plywood…
Something like this because it has a nice “tote” to bring a bundle of wood in at a time
There's a "kettle" style thermoelectric fan, commonly sold as Military surplus, which has the fan facing up/down instead of to one side. NSN# 4520-01-457-2790
Be wary of "antique". I bought a new pot belly stove for a cabin, and after a short while it looked antique. I paid about $450 for it 20 years ago. Amazon shows one for $617.
That being said, the one in the picture looks like it's in pretty good shape. Things to be aware of: You need to cut wood small enough to get into the stove. It'll take a couple good size pieces for when you want to load up for the night. That'll burn pretty fast, so someone will need to feed it again before morning. You'll get a bit of smoke because the plate on top isn't a tight fit. And if you take the plate out to put wood in from the top. For us, the stove is good because it's in a "rustic" setting. It might be good in a garage. I wouldn't put it in my den.
The combuster I put into the ones I sell is here
Very easy to replace, pop the stone up w a flathead, carefully. Most Elms just has the stone sit on top of the cast iron griddle, then you just lift it off and pop the griddle w a flathead screwdriver. Should be painless, pop the old one out, wrap the new one w the gasket it comes with and put it in. If the old one is being tricky, you can kinda reach inside the firebox and push it up so you can get a grip on it to get it out.
As far as burning, get a new therm on your stovepipe about 10” from the outlet of the stove. When that hits 450ish, push the rod above the door in ad far as it will go. This will engage the combuster, and when the combuster is going, the them on the actual combuster housing should start to read correctly.
Any inexpensive 2 prong meter can be a good choice. They generally all look like this
LCD Moisture Detector,Digital LCD Handhold Wood Moisture Meter Damp Detector Hygrometer Tester Sensor https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08RYV22TB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SGEMPJPYCAJ57ADEY47E
To be clear, it’s not essential to have one, but it can really help tune your ability to assess how “dry” a given chunk of firewood is.
Sorry for the long link, but I got one of these and it makes monitoring temps super easy. I use it most every fire to make sure I get the pipe up to 500f to start and have also used it for a bunch of other stuff around the house. It's really good for finding cold spots and thus drafts as well.
Do you know the gap thickness between the glass and the floor? You could use o-ring cord stock of the appropriate thickness to prevent anything from getting underneath it.
Here is an example, but there are several different size and color options that would best suit your needs.
Dont get your heart set on a big heat day out of the gate. You need to build some small fires a few times to help set the paint, dry out the firebricks, etc. it also will smell a bit so need to open some windows.
I use one of these to get the hot air to move to my stairwell, and it definitely heats the hallway upstairs. Bedrooms are just OK. Obviously that one is sold out but you get the point.
With your hearth being in the middle of the room, you probably need something free-standing. Maybe something like this would work. I think you can remove panels to adjust the size, and you could probably secure it to the bricks on the sides of the chimney with some anchors if it isn't sturdy enough free-standing.
I'm in CT and burn about 4 cords a winter. I attach this to my drill with a blanket over the opening of the stove to keep down on soot in the house.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0Q8FG6
I sweep at the beginning (November) and middle (February) of the season.
I think the idea is to not have to disassemble your chimney every time you clean it.
There are long fiberglass bendable rods that have a large round brush on the end with hard bristles that you attach to a drill. It's much easier to clean when its still put together and you catch all the creosote that falls into the stove with a trash bag. The chimney by no means has to be spotless as long as you clean it out once a year it should be fine.
I use fatwood from pine trees to get my fire going which creates the black smoke, mine looks much worse at the end of every season then yours does.
Paint n Peel can be used to clean the soot off the brick. Its expensive but works better than most cleaners.
YOu need to get a moisture meter, many people think that they have "dry" enough wood, but it turns out they are close but not "dry" enough.
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All you need is a cheap one form amazon or ebay, you are looking for a reading less than 20%, you dont need anything more than transparent plastic to build a solar kiln.
I bought this one recently, it was well reviewed on Amazon, a couple of people said it gave readings close to the professional ones they’ve compared to:
I don’t have much to compare it to, but the wood that’s was sold as seasoned comes in at between 15-20% and burns nicely.
BN-LINK Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Lights, Fans, Christmas Lights, Small Appliance, Long Range White (Learning Code, 3Rx-1Tx) 1200W/10A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NASZ0UM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_WGWHHVSM43RGTM96J61V
You could wrap a second controller, wireless, around your system so that the fan kicks on when either controller commands. Here is one that I have used for various heating and cooling control functions:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L4YJZH9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATDZQCGMZGLMV&psc=1
This is the equivalent of running a fan from two different AC power sources in parallel, which is an "OR" situation. It will run off the furnace control OR your wireless control. So in some cases they may both be on, which leads to two cautions:
Be sure to pull the AC power from the same point so there is no possibility of the AC being opposite phase, and be sure that it is line to line and neutral to neutral when they are both on. Let me know if you want me to draw it schematically.
With this setup you can move the sensor/thermostat to any location that you want.
I gave up years ago, ash is just way too fine and clogs filters too easily, and it's very abrasive on motor components. I even bought a specially designed ash vacuum with all metal components (metal hose & body) and still hated using it.
You can call around to chimney sweeps and ask what they use, but the answer is going to be to sweep & shovel out as much as you can, only use the shop-vac for the small amount left over after sweeping, and clean it thoroughly after every use.
For cold, dead ashes I use a cheap plastic handheld broom & dustpan like this. If there's still a fair amount hot coals, I just shovel everything I can into a coal hod, wait 30 mins or so for the stove to cool then sweep out what's left.
For me using a vac just isn't worth the effort. By the time I got the vac out of the garage, unwound the cord and plugged it in I'd be nearly done shoveling & sweeping, not to mention all the time spent to empty and clean out the vac & filters when done. When the heating season is over, I give everything a thorough cleaning and use the vacuum then, but that's all it's good for IMO.
Beautiful. Thank you for the writeup. Do you think something like this would work? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FKDMLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_WWncGbD4J2TZ9
Or do you recommend a poly brush? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FKDMLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_WWncGbD4J2TZ9
Are there pros and cons? Any other tool recommendations?
It’s quickly becoming our favorite thing too!! The ash bin I found browsing amazon one day lol.
Boone Hearth Ash Bucket with Customizable Handle for Fireplace https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQ2TD7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_9um4Fb8W9F0NJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've been using this little wedge I picked up at a garage sale brand new. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RDJDT27/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_-tgVFbVQ8DQSA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
I screwed it into my splitting stump and works great- could be a little longer though. An 8 pound hammer work perfect.
Ha! Here is the link from Amazon, but it's no longer available. I'm sure if you search Sunnydaze Decor you'll probably find it somewhere. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SH15GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_gGtVFbGEGMDPG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Fans work great! They are older and I'm going to replace them with something I can better direct the airflow (and has a guard), like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GYUX610/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_dMSUFbVPAH8J4
That's a little pricey, but I'll come across something someday.
I believe he’s talking about these plates, they come in metal or plastic. A couple things to consider if you go this route:
If you’re pretty sure you’ll never use the outlet again I’d remove its wiring from the breaker box, remove the outlet (still cap the wires with wire nuts if you leave them there, be sure to read up in the proper way to do that!) and cover them up with the plate.
If you want to leave the wiring connected it’s a bit more complicated. You’ll still need to remove the outlet and cap the wires (properly!) but if you use a metal plate in that scenario it’ll need to be grounded. If the electric box holding the outlet is also metal, and if it was properly installed sometime in the last ~50 years, it should already be grounded and you can attach a metal plate without worrying about someone touching it and getting a new hairstyle. If the box is plastic a metal plate becomes more of an ordeal.
The bag looks pretty neat, any idea why the wood stand cost $115?
https://www.amazon.com/LogOX-WoodOX-Sling-Ergonomic-Firewood/dp/B07TV7Y3MD?th=1
get something like this, tie a rope to both ends and pull it back and forth. that's what I do and it works great for me
Not an insane amount but they do make a slight difference. I bought this one for $30 last year, love it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B0M8MHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u.OMFbBF4P6A8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Probably? The probe is stupid simple. My concern would be getting it far enough in to penetrate the flue pipe inner wall.
Link to Condar probe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LZDVAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aBEMFbEYM3B2B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There are woodstove thermometers for the stove top.
like this one
https://www.amazon.com/Inferno-3-30-thermometer-measures-temperatures/dp/B002SC323K
I use a Drill Rotary Chimney Cleaning Brush ... this exact one here
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0Q8FG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
See here is the thing:
>you can increase the diameter right off the stove or at the thimble, but if its 5" id do it at the collar with something like this: you just want a 5 to 6. https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/venting/black-stove-pipe/black-stove-increaser-with-crimp/43007064rb/p-1444432253085-c-19451.htm?tid=-1&ipos=11
I bought this exact part in 5 to 6. The 5 end crimped will not fit INSIDE the exhaust port on the wood stove like you would assume a crimped part would. The 5 inch end WILL fit AROUND the port on the stove if it's uncrimped (very snugly).
This is why I think they had galv steel there because they couldn't find the right stovepipe part.
I found this which would work: where the 5 side is uncrimped as well so that could be slipped over the port and screwed in (there are already holes) and then have the crimps facing in from there all the way up the roof.
The only thing is the cost of that seems excessive to me at least on amazon. Do you know where to get that part cheaper? Menards and Home Cheapo never seem to have 5 to 6 parts they always start at 6.
here's the one i use, and the one you'll constantly see recommended on here
I got this one a few years ago. It's more of a novelty than anything else. It spins its little ass off when the stove is going, but I cant really feel any air moving from it. When it dies, I won't replace it.
Ha! Yeah, my question wasn't as articulate as I thought. I was wondering if heat/air was escaping straight out of a not-air-tight conversion of the chimney. But like you said, there's no air gap around it and it's all blocked off. Sounds like we're all set in terms of that type of heat loss.
Your setup is obviously getting decent combustion from your photo, and you have control over the air flow, so I'm just wondering where all those BTUs are going. From my experience, that chair in your photo should be uncomfortably hot to sit in, and that paper/cardboard collection would also be on fire. I'm stumped on where your heat is going.
For reference - Years ago, I got one of those IR laser-pointed thermometers. Super fun to see the temps of the stove with one of those (and how cold certain walls/floors are in the house, yikes!). Anyways, the glass on my stove easily gets to ~750 F degrees, top of the stove ~700 F, stove pipe near the stove is ~450 F. Ceiling above the stove is ~100 F (cat's a toasty ~95 F on the couch 10 feet away). Even the center of a little coal pile after a long fire still max out the thermometer past ~1000.
It sounds like you want the thermostat to operate the wood stove fan. Is this correct?
I have tied into air handlers before to operate hour meters and remote monitoring with arduino hardware.
One easy thing to do is to connect a 120v coil relay to the blower fan circuit on the control board of the air handler. My furnace has a male QD connector on the board I was able to connect to. There is an aux fan connection and also a dehumidifier connection you can use.
The contact side of the relay has no power. They are called dry contacts. Break into your stove blower circuit and connect 120v to one relay contact and the fan to the other. Here's one that will work. If the fan draws more than 5 amps, you will want something heavier.
This is low tech but simple, cheap, and robust. No need to fool with software or add on electronics. Just one relay.
Thanks. Should note I do my own Chimney sweeping using one of those "sooteaters" weed whacker type drill attachments you feed from the bottom up.. Works great.
Thus my question about what I should look for in my inspection.
i will say this is one the best sharpeners i have ever purchased. it files the rakes down at the correct depth as you sharpen your teeth. it made my chains cut like a brand new chain. watch a youtube video on and it will become the easiest way to sharpen you own chains
STIHL 2 IN 1 EASY FILE CHAINSAW CHAIN SHARPENER .325" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HY96EW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3EorCbP9GJ6C5
Oh, as a chimney sweep, given that I'm fairly handy (do all but the most major car repairs myself, basic home plumbing, interior repair, appliance maintenance, builds PCs, ect.) would you recommend getting something like this and cleaning my chimneys myself? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010H5JXA
Or not a good idea for some reasons I'm not aware of?
I've been using this coal hod from Amazon for at least 5-6 years.
Outside, any old metal garbage can should do. I use two, when one gets full, I switch to the other, and take the first down to the curb on trash day a week later. Ashes can stay hot for days inside the can, I do this to make sure the one I take to the curb doesn't have any hot ashes inside.
Any 3" vent would work fine. It's basically a dryer vent...except you don't want a fancy one with a door that only lets air out
What you're looking for is something like this. Bonus if it has a cage/screen to keep critters out.
I found this kinda thing, way cheaper at a local discount place. I just set it over my ash bucket and sift it, works really well, not too bad on dust. Might have a spray bottle with a fine most when I don't want the dust. Then just dump them back in. Also found a smaller square one for the smaller stove, same size as yours. Works great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037NZ7DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_kbXtAb143N5YV Edit:forgot link
This is what you want to use.
https://www.amazon.com/Copperfield-W573-0007-Mill-pak-Temperature-Sealant/dp/B001D1J8TO
Wood stove pipe in general will have minor gaps at the stove or thimble and will not effect performance. Natural draft will draw smoke up without any leakage. Just make sure the crimped end of the pipe is running downward and not up.
These are $8 with prime shipping. I'm sure shipping from the UK would put it well over $8.
You can thread anything you want on there. The hardware section at the local lowes probably has a bunch of stuff that would work. If it were me I'd get this: http://www.amazon.com/Spring-Handle-Tapered-Barbecue-Accessories/dp/B00AGZT4YC/ref=pd_sim_86_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1BPMYQD06YRGQCJK50BF and a bolt that fits or something.