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WR153 has an 8 inch disk. Specifications or advertisements sometimes say 9 inch which includes 1/2 inch added twice to include the rotsting blades. So what it says depends on the individual making the Advert or Specs listing. What the WR153 does not have that the WR155 does have (bases on webpage info links shared here below) is a floating blade disc that automatically lifts to provide more ground clearance to navigate terrain that is uneven, so mower is less lukely to get trapped or stuck. (Note, I personally don't believe it will remedy wheel sluppage errors). Also the WR155 is supposed to be mire waterproof as stated, for which they show a picture running a water hose on an upside down WR155.
WR153 https://www.amazon.com/WR153-Landroid-Robotic-Module-Included/dp/B084SF1T89
WR155 https://www.worx.com/landroid-l-1-2-acre-20v-cordless-robotic-lawn-mower-wr155.html
I applaud your effort but this is solved simply by buying the blades/bolts for a Husqvarna robotic mower. Look at the design difference built into the threads of the bolt and size of the hole on the blades. This allows them to free float better then the Worx design.
The blades in the link below work perfectly and are even easier to install them the Worx since there's no overkill thread locker on the bolts.
I've put over 300 hours on my three L units and not a single one bound up. Try them out
Another option are the titanium ones (longer lasting, inexpensive):
EMBerg Endurance Blades (18 Pack) for Worx Landroid Robotic Mowers (Titanium Worx Blade) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PPW3YPB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YATR313TJTWA3WGW08BV
Bought a pack of 24 stainless steel blades from Amazon for $18.99 with prime shipping. Work great far as I can tell. They don't appear in stock right now though...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081GT519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3SvpFbMF254VR
USA => current best price per 3.3" long plastic peg on Amazon = 10 cents {link below}
Even though these are 'tent pegs' they will work, and are less expensive than those advertised for boundary wire. Beware of cheap plastic pegs with a thin rib at the curved section that traps the wire. I bot some of these and they brake at this point, if hit hard against the ground.
It's easier to simply add a diving weight and looks more professional:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00355HOHE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(It didn't make any difference for me, though. I believe the trapping issues are 100% software).
These:
SwitchBot Smart Switch Button Pusher - No Wiring, Wireless App or Timer Control, Add SwitchBot Hub Compatible with Alexa, Google Home, HomePod and IFTTT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4D9KVX/
I connected the Landroid to OpenHAB and created a routine that pushes the “start” and then the “go”buttons once very specific messages are received, like “mower trapped “. For example: this cannot work when the error is “mower outside wire”, but for that I simply put a parallel line on the edges that forces the mower to never attack this section frontally, always on parallel, removing the issue.
If you don’t want to go as complex: simply put these 2 sensors and you can restart the droid with your phone from your room/office (Bluetooth) or away when it gets stuck (you need to buy the same brand’s hub to do it when not at home through wifi).
It saves a lot of time. Walking to the droid a few times per day can add up every week.
Good news. Yes, I received response yesterday June 21, 2021. They now testing them for the U.S. market. Here is copy of my emailed question and their reponse:
WORX LANDROID From: To:
Good Afternoon, Thank you for your email. The alternate wheel designs are being tested for the US market and might soon be available but as of this moment are not. Please keep an eye on our website for news about them and when they are available.
Thank you for being a Landroid customer and please let us know if we can be of further assistance. Sincerely,
Dennis H Lead Brand Ambassador
To: From: Sent: Jun 20, 2021 at 07:35 AM EDT Subject: WR150 wheels
Hi. Why can we not get these alternate wheels for WR-150 here in the United States? Please see these reviews in Germany and The united Kingdom. The tread is taller, the stud tips are not as broad but slimmer for better traction, and each wheel is noticeably heavier giving it morecweight to get better traction without wheels slipping and wearing turning wholes or grooves through the grass to the dirt. Here is the link. Worx manufactures these wheels. There are two models one if which is called by two different names. 1) ALL TERRAIN 2) OFF ROAD 3) GRIPPER. The link I shared here is forvthe Off Road Version. I am sure the other version has it's own different part number. I have to find it again. https://www.amazon.de/-/en/WA0950-WORX-Landroid-wheels/dp/B084SC6L6N?ref_=d6k_applink_bb_marketplace
Thank you.
I added motocross tire traction screws, and it works flawlessly since then. I believe the area of friction is bigger with my solution, it's cheaper and looks less intrusive, but your solution might work too:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N6AQXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Instead of that, I added motocross traction screws: haven't had any problem since then, and looks COOL:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N6AQXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sure. When you know they are coming out, put down some of those yard marking flags the utility companies use before they dig. You can pick up a 100 pack from amazon for $15. Amazon Yard Marking Flags
Yeah I believes I got the metal stakes somewhere in the garden section at Lowe’s.
The wire connectors are water proof since the wire is outside. Might be some other options at a big box store, but they certainly aren’t as common as a normal wire connector. I didn’t do a ton of research on other options and these really can’t be any easier to use: 3M Scotchlok Electrical IDC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1UENB6
I sharpen my knives and tools.
I sharpen my blades and replace them every 6 weeks with sharp ones.
It's not difficult and a sharpening stone is pretty cheap, I have an Arkansas tri-stone like this, but 30 years old.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Arkansas-Whetstone-Sharpening-TRI-6/dp/B01C9SLW5W/
Very much depends on where you live. Any 18-20 gauge will do. I purchased this — PetSafe Boundary Wire for Electric Dog and Cat Containment Fences - Durable 16 Gauge and 20 Gauge Options https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017DGFSA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XT1kFbXKEXH0X
I would plan on buying more wire, stakes, and outdoor-rated wire connectors. For the wire and wire connectors, don't buy the Worx branded ones and they are grossly overpriced. I used this:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Boundary-20-Gauge-Copper-Ground/dp/B0017DGFSA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P1UENB6
For the stakes, some people just use landscaping staples. I tried that for some of mine, but find the Worx branded ones easier to work with, but they are admittedly overpriced.
As for L vs M, that's kind of up to you. Personally, I was just under .25 acres and went with the L just to be safe. If you are way under .25 M is probably fine. I wouldn't base the decision on wire included.
In IT, it's common to use a Toner and Tracer to look for Cat5 network cables.
Here is a cheap set I found on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5
Since you probably don't want or need to spend the money on the higher-end Fluke models.
These are the absolute best connectors you can get.
These are good too but the ones in the above link are better.
The difference between the two connectors is the grease used in the tube and the amount of grease put into the tube. The better connector has a black dielectric grease that flows around the twist connector/wire much better than the cheaper alternative which has petroleum jelly (Vaseline) and doesn't fully encapsulate the connector/wire. I bought the cheaper ones thinking I'll save a few bucks but when I saw how much less grease was in the cheaper one I knew why they were cheaper, I won't buy them again.
To fix a break in your wire you twist the two wires together with the supplied twist connector, then you insert the twist connector into the tube and push it all the way into the tube till it hits the bottom. The tube is filled with grease that encapsulates the connector/wires and keeps all water out....well...that's the way it works with the better connector, the cheaper connector takes some work to get the grease to flow around the inserted connector/wire and I'm not sure it fully encapsulated the connector/wire.
I use rolls of green garden fencing, they usually come in 5 meter x 1.5 meter rolls and are available in garden centres. They can be cut out with a stanly knife easily to shape and I use plastic garden stakes to hold them in position. The mesh become hidden in a couple of weeks and the droid cannot dig up the ground.
I have one of these for locating other wire breaks, but it works great for finding breaks in my boundary wire. My neighbor borrows it often, too, for his wire breaks.
I added all the new wire patches with a spool of 16 gauge green wire from the local auto store. Since I am now running both 16 and 18 gauge, I bought these:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09BJ5ZFWV?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
A quick heating with a heat gun and the solder melts into the stripped wires that were pushed together and the gel melts around the wire coating and hopefully will seal it against the weather. We’ll see how it holds up for my 1st winter.
You should bring it and the charger in if you experience extended freezing temps and snow.
I would recommend you also put the exposed perimeter wires ends in something waterproof to protect them.
Maybe something like these. These are filled with dielectric grease and are awesome. I use them to fix wire cuts and there's no water getting to the wires in this connector.
Or these. I have them but never used them, they work the same way...just much less grease in them compared to the others I recommended.
But then again...what the hell do I know?
I used this one that I saw recommended in this sub. 500' for $30. I like it better than the official one because it is easier to strip. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXPSN0Q?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Hi -
Here's an amazon link to the tire studs I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096X1FQKC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I used to have this exact problem PRIOR to this patch. It’s completely fixed now but it’s also completely unrelated to patches. I started getting errors basically every day where he’d be outside his boundary wire and also had a problem with grass being tore up everywhere from spinning wheels. Either torn from turns or holes when stuck.
I put in these ice racing studs in his paddles. Super easy, not expensive. The difference was night and day! The tractability went WAY up. No more out of bounds errors, no more tore up grass, never gets stuck anywhere. Just casually rolls around everywhere like you’d expect. The difference was so stark that my neighbor across the street even commented that he was getting around so much better and smoother and she didn’t even know I had put in the studs.
It only takes a few seconds to put in each one (just screw right in to the soft paddle material). I put in one every 4th paddle at first just to test it out. Worked so good I added a few more and have had no trouble since. The screws are much smaller than they appear in the pictures and fit the paddles perfectly both in depth and head size.
Fyi fwiw. I saw a comment here about these is how I found out about these and the idea. Passing it on.
Kold Kutter KK038-8-250 Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008N6AQXO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I needed to add about 300 more feet of wire and this is working fine:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W6RQDBT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Added it to the stranded that my 147 came with and no issues.
I believe the max for the wire is just under 1,000 feet. It's not a predetermined lock out, just the limitation of the wire carrying the current over that distance.
Thanks for the links! I've tried the solid core line but it seems like it's more of a pain to work with. I've been using these for splicing and it works really well with stranded wire. https://www.amazon.com/Kuject-Connector-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B083LZS69N/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=solder+heat+shrink+connectors&qid=1660845858&sprefix=solder+heat%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
> What is a shortcut?
https://wiki.worx.com/en/shortcut
You need the offlimits kit to use it Basically, it lets you set no go zones (like the lollipop) by placing magnetic strips that don't have to be connected to the boundry wire. Boundry wire is more reliable though. The shortcuts are an extra feature to shorten the path "home" (they only work when trying to go home)
> I have done the "lollipop" for a drain that I have, is that what you mean by an island?
yes
Have not tried this on the Landroid, but do this my laptop to attach external drives to the lid. Use 3M strips with velcro - stick one side to the landroid and other to the weight. This one is good for 16 pounds:
Y'all are scaring me. What do you think of these that someone else recommended. Think they are strong enough to hold back a determined, disobedient droid?
My plan is to place the boundary wire up higher while the slope is more gradual and then to put the stakes by the water's edge so I can confirm that the droid get naughty.
So I think these will be part of the solution given the other thread in this group with a landroid that went swimming.
Are we sure these are strong enough to hold back a droid?
Uh oh. This looks exactly like my set up with slope to the pond. I don't like the look of that.
Maybe I should wrap a pool noodle around mine to make it amphibious!
Someone recommended lawn stakes to me. They look expensive for what they are, but cheaper than a new droid.
Personally I would get some pavers, some fill dirt, and some chicken wire. Lay a row of pavers down, fill on the yard side, chicken wire over the top, and toss down some seed.
"Ramp" the chicken wire a bit to make things as flat as possible.
Downward slopes near a boundary wire is by far the most common area these droids crap their pants.
If all of that is too much work, you need to get some boundary stakes to keep your robot from swimming: https://www.amazon.com/Temporary-Boundary-Commonly-Husqvarna-Automower/dp/B0B15J9C6K/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=3N9AUAVG11LJV&keywords=temporary+boundary+stake&qid=1660219571&sprefix=temporary+boundary+stake%2Caps%2C63&sr=8-2
Bro, why don't you just get a multi-meter? They can be had for cheap! this one is just over $11 USD:
https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-R500-Electronic-Multimeters/dp/B01N9QW620/
If I were you and I didn't own one yet, I'd definitely get one before going through the work to run new wire (especially if it turns out that your wire is just fine).
I added a new section to my wire/area this weekend and it was several hours of work in the hot summer sun. If I knew I could eliminate that work with a device that costs < $20 USD, I'd be all over that.
I don't know about you, but wiring up my yard with all my exclusion loops for young trees, etc took me more than two days to prepare and install. If I were to count up the actual hours, I'm sure it would be more than 20 hours. Probably closer to 30 or more.
I actually got my unit to run pretty reliably in the end by installing some spikes on the wheels (bought off Amazon - https://www.amazon.nl/-/en/gp/product/B093Q91Y62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
​
No extra weights, and it improved tractions SO MUCH!
I also found I had an issue with the unit sometimes 'overshooting' when docking and then getting stuck at the base ("outside wire"). That also turned out to be an easy fix with just moving the entire charging base 10cm further right.
​
I'm currently trying to regrow grass on the bald spots, but kinda hard because the unit still turns there every single day. Have fabricated some protective mesh with fencing wire to cover those, keeping the wheels from really digging into the soil and disturbing the seeds, but I might still end up having to wait until early next season and try and regrow it right after winter and before I turn the robot back on.
​
​
Bigger issue right now that I have a freaking mole infestation and 6-10 new molehills show up E-V-E-R-Y day, despite having caught 3 of them already. Robot doesn't like those much either and runs itself aground on one of those hills every so often, requiring manual intervention to reset the unit and get it going again.
I got it for $266 delivered from Amazon.
Add it to your cart on the Work site and do not buy it. They will probably email you a 15% coupon code in a day or two.
I have this cable locator: https://www.amazon.com/F02-Underground-Locator-Tracker-Earphone/dp/B01GDZLZOU
It didn't work for me with red and black both connected to the loop. It just made a solid tone over the whole loop as if nothing was wrong.
In order to work, I had to connect the red clip to the end of the loop that I took out of the red terminal on the base. The black clip had to be connected to a long screwdriver I stuck into the ground near the base.
I use a diving weight and a paracord string. I just loop it around the battery box and let it hang down on the back. Works fine without modifying it.
I have an older model WR140 (which has a flat shelf rear deck for mtg extra batts). So have all three(3) batteries in parallel powering the Landroid. If I go by batt rating, the total is now 14 amp-hr and this Landroid gets about 7 hrs of continuous cutting w/o recharge.
By the way it's not the size of my lawn that prompted this idea but rather the continuous mow time. The advantage is the work is done in 2 days instead of taking most of the week.
Anyway, here is a link for two 6 amp-hr Landroid equivalent batts for less than $30 ea.
Recently (within the last few weeks) Landroid WR155 half-acre model, with ACS and radio. No non-OEM mods. I have yet to have it run a full cycle and get home without any intervention, but I'm getting really, really close. I have two main problems I'm working on:
- One edge where my lawn slopes down just as it hits the scrub/bushes/woods, so the wire is on a slope. Unavoidably so. I am adding decorative wire fencing (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J9VBRVL/) to give it a border that stops it. Lots of tweaking to adjust it; if it's too far away, the robot still crosses the line, but if it's too close, she gets stuck on it trying to follow the wire home.
- I had a lot of my lawn torn up by an over-eager Labrador Retriever, who died this winter. That's why this is the year I'm doing this. I started out by putting down almost 4cy of fill and new seed for all the holes she'd dug. This includes a lot along where the perimeter wire goes. The problem I have is that, while the grass is not yet come in there, the dirt is too soft -- even as packed down as I can make it -- and the robot digs it up, especially while trying to find home. It really needs the ruggedness of grass-roots holding the soil together. To solve this I have put down straw blankets over that part, with a thin biodegradable netting. The robot sometimes gets a wheel slightly caught on the netting, though. (Protip: fold the straw blanket over so that it becomes a sandwich, straw on both top and bottom, netting in the middle, before staking it down.)
My lawn is very rural (I live in backwoods Vermont) so I suspect most surburban homeowners wouldn't have the same problems I have. The only 'island" I have is around a lilac sproutling; I have no trees on my lawn (my lawn is about 0.25 acres out of about six acres, the rest of it being mostly swampy, densely scrubby woods, mostly pine and spruce but with maple and poplar stands throughout).
Get yourself one of those to find the break, you'll thank yourself, bought one and found my break in 10 minutes..
Yes, there are a few. If you buy them, pay close attention that they fit youe model. You can get them in most hardware stores, or on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.de/WORX-WA0952-Landroid-Räder-Super-Grip/dp/B08SWN8BL8
The cable is long, and you can wrap it. I have thought about 3d printing some sort of "spool" that I could wall mount and keeping things tidy, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
​
I added plenty of "extra cable" all over the place. There are some good youtube videos on how to do it. The more the better provided you aren't nearing the 350m boundary wire lenth limit.
I would also 100% order more of the connectors in case you screw up. I have at least 5-6 of these on my 0.5acre install and my landroid only came with two. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9KH8PT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I used this solid dog fence wire:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XJPJV6T
Though when I bought it in 2019- it was only $40.
No regrets on the thick wire- I've had almost no breaks, even if it gets wrapped around a wheel. And we have frozen winters here in the Northeast. Great wire. (18 wire).
So I have this model (as well as a WR150).
I love it because it is the energizer bunny- it just goes and goes and goes- no wire issues, nothing.. just does the job. In that way its WAY better than the WR150
The bad thing is the battery and doesn't handle inclines well. My base station green light is actually burnt out so I had to do all sorts of things to figure out exactly what you had- HOWEVER I had a WR150 setup to help figure it out... I dragged the base over to the other side to see if it's the wire, or the unit and had it go to the WR150 side- had the WR150 run on this side of the house... and what I can tell you is:
Every time I run into any issue with this version- it always seems to something else BUT it's always the battery. Every time I replace the battery- I'm back in business. It's come to the point where I have a spare battery in the garage- and when it's doing weird things, I swap it out and when it just starts doing its thing again, I order a new replacement.
(So 5 years - large lawn so going out every day- put in the 3rd battery this year- 50% full battery but heading to the base- that's the sign its coming to an end...)
So I would recommend getting yourself a new battery (link below to what I got). You'll need it someday anyway- and that could be today. The Risk- you lose $70 on a battery that doesn't bring it back to life... (Though I have to tell you- I think you could buy a spare base from the WR155 from Worx and use it for parts to inject into the old base- if your soldering iron inclined- that may be me some day.)
But no guarantee in life- but I'm wagering it's just your battery. I thought my little guy was dead 3 times over the years- and it was either my battery was dying, or it was dead.
Good Luck- Battery Below..
2nd loop installed 500' of the boundary wire. works like a dream. my first loop is 800+ ft.
I used a wifi switch from amazon in a weatherproof box. I only switch the feed to the loop and the return wire is spliced at a common return point. the wifi s/w comes set for inching (momentary contact) the mode button on the board will set it to latching.
​
Also, fun fact (or accidental discovery) if you can office which IE create a meeting wire fault as the landroid is traveling to the zone to start working. the robot will stop and if you turn the s/w for the loop back on it will just start from there just as if it found the zone it was looking for. so with this and a bit of programming of the wifi s/w you can create infinite zones.
​
2nd loop installed 500' of the boundary wire. works like a dream.
I have this landroid- and yes- I had this problem too... and to complete the sentence, yup I had to replace the battery.
It was acting weirder and weirder up to this point until- RIP battery.
I got this battery:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L4TFPS2
I got this 2 years ago so it was cheaper then... and I'm actually thinking of getting another one- I see my little robot heading into the dock more often (the real tell IMO is when you see it heading home on its own, stop the robot- and if the battery indicator is like over 50% and its heading home, I think a premature voltage drop is telling the device the battery needs to be charged... aka dying battery )
Good Luck.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096XR8NBD?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_XTCFCE71G9HJQZQ3CBTX
Best to set drop for round the clock protection and notification. Set vibration for only when the unit is on the base overnight.
For repairs I prefer the inline 14-22 gauge wire butt connectors with heat shrinking ability, you get the water tight seal plus you setup isnt all janky because its inline, sold at lowes or home depot , come in blue, yellow or pinkish depending on wire size .
Also ditch the included wire and get a proper thicker non stranded wire like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XJTGNNG/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 its called extreme dog fence 14 gauge also for auto mower usage, it carries a stronger signal, never breaks and is easier to bury if you want to go that route.
My landroid works better than ever now, i have wr147
I prefer the inline 14-22gauge wire butt connectors with heat shrinking ability, you get the water tight seal plus you setup isnt all janky because its inline, sold at lowes or home depot , come in blue, yellow or pinkish depending on wire size .also ditch the included wire and get a proper thicker non stranded wire like this one:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XJTGNNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 its called extreme dog fence 14 gauge also for auto mower usage, it carries a stronger signal, never breaks and is easier to bury if you want to go that route. My landroid works better than ever now, i have wr147
Good plan. If I were buying straight from Worx I would have done the same. Another guy in this reddit suggested these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008N6AQXO I screwed 2 of those into every top ridge of each wheel.
Thank you
Wife has an edger similar to that and I got this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079PD1TNF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_NE7KXEK1706Z9CABJEZZ
Just need to know if I have enough perimeter wire for According to Google Map Measurements:
Total Area 3,386.26 Sq Ft (314.59 Sq Meters) Total Distance 237.91 ft (72.52 m)
I have a UNIFI network, the outdoor UNIFI Mesh Wifi network nodes are overpriced but the Linksys ones work fine with my UNIFI router. Here's what I use outside:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDZ8G4T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Much cheaper and it works! I am going to weatherproof mine by inserting it PVC pipe.
eventually I am going to take it apart and make a DC Power IN and add a a Lipo/Solar power setup Similar to my BloomSky weather station.
Sure -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scotch-Crimp-Tool-Jelly-Crimping/dp/B005NZ3ZT0
If you're UK, the Google term is 'BT Gel Crimp pliers' target price £5-£10.
I saw these grips on Amazon, they slip over the existing wheel. But there are no comments there on how they work.
No I used diving weights. ( Sea Pearls Uncoated Lace Thru Style Hard Weights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034ZPHZG/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_K3H5CBAYQRGZTFQC6GED )The small weights divers use in their jackets. I attached them using fingers line
I know but I didn't plan for 2 weeks :)
I put the new set and I order the "Titanium" set (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081G9RYFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I will see if its holds for more then 2 weeks
Add soil back to the holes and I put a mesh on top, to ensure grip and protect the grass growing back. I like it green to make it less noticeable:
MAPORCH Upgraded 15.7IN x 10FT Green Plastic Chicken Wire Fence Mesh, Hexagonal Fencing Wire for Gardening, Poultry Fencing, Chicken Wire Frame for Crafts, Floral Netting (Grass Green)
Depending on what you have in the area (such as a fence nearby for example), you could use an outdoor box to hold a 3-way light switch.
Hook the main boundary wire up to the common, and the two paths to the other terminals. One terminal will be for the flood zone (A), the other will be for it to avoid the zone (B).
Then, use the supplied wire splicers to connect all 3 wires up where the A and B wires meet back up to finish the loop.
Project box:
Zulkit Junction Box ABS Plastic Dustproof Waterproof IP65 Electrical Boxes Hinged Shell Outdoor Universal Project Enclosure 5.9 x 3.9 x 2.8 inch (150x100x70mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KY7VK8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_
Still avaliable new on Amazon
Worx Landroid L 20V 6.0Ah Robotic Lawn Mower 1/2 Acre / 21,780 Sq Ft. Power Share - WR155 (Battery & Charger Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096T6FNWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_H77YRFSKGJYN37AR5MG0?psc=1
The ones in the video are the original blades that came with the Landroid, when those are done I'll be using aftermarket ones I already bought but haven't tried yet.
There is no manual. Some have done it here, but in a different setup. To cut of an area simply put a extra wire inside the loop which you connect to the perimeter wire with a switch. If the extra wire is disconnected (on 1 side) it is invisible to the mower. Best is to use a double switching outdoor switch, so you disconnect the other wire. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gang-Weatherproof-Outdoor-Light-Switch/dp/B00BD6SMNW
Clean and clear all debris, grass etc.. Use spray dry lubricant and work each axle/arm many times, up and down and twisting. I was having lift errors many times a day, did this a season and a half ago and haven't had a single error since.
Specifically, this is the lubricant I used. Not sure how much it matters, but figured I'd include that detail.
Does this one work for you? If not the title of the product is:
EMBerg Endurance Blades (18 Pack) for Husqvarna Automower Gardena Mcculloch Robotic Lawnmower Mowing Lawn Mower Robo Robot Accessories Replacement Blade for 315 430 435 450 and many others. (Titanium)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N6AQXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used these, 2 side-by-side per tread, and they work great.
I got the from Amazon canada, this is the link for Amazon US
Amazon has it for $99 currently, if you didn't know. https://www.amazon.com/WORX-WA0810-Landroid-Garage-Cover/dp/B088GHS3YD/ref=sr\_1\_5?crid=2MHYRR64KYSPI&keywords=worx+landroid&qid=1651334535&sprefix=worx+land%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-5
I used a small USB hub like this one connected to the USB port that is normally used for a flash drive inside the battery compartment of the WR165 Landroid S mower.
It's probably risky to run 2 cameras (or anything) from that USB port. But seems to work fine for me. I once tested adding the Wyze spot light that mounts on top of the V3 camera and it seemed to work fine powering all 3 devices at once. But that's a risk I decided to take.
I use flat USB cables and a 90-degree "FPV" ribbon cable to get under the battery lid for it to close properly.
Here is what it looks like on my backyard mower, before I added the 2nd camera:
WR155 pics with wyze cam v3 mounted on ACS bolts and flat USB cable https://imgur.com/a/g2jP9Q4
I lay some lawn mesh in those areas, see below, which the grass grows through so you don’t see. It just adds some robustness to the lawn to stop it churning when the wheels turn and dig into the same spot. There’s still slippage but this helps with preventing the holes. It isn’t perfect, but it’s better than before.
I originally looked at this a couple of seasons back. After evaluating its pros and cons I decided to go with something that would offer better protection by guarding on a higher level and provide an in home alarm and mobile notification.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096XR8NBD/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_JM2YMG5ZVJ50ES4H1Q72
Purzest 15 Feet Boundary Strips Magnetic Tape Markers Compatible for Neato Shark ION Robot Vacuum 750 Robotic xiaomi Roborock S5 S7Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0827GQGB7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZRSSPBM772SNRHRW4VC1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The only other method I’ve seen is someone here posting about using automated buttons to do the presses remotely: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4D9KVX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PM4JZP69GW3NWE544QNV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It seems unfathomable that Worx developers continue to refuse to add a function to restart remotely citing liability / injury reasons.
Not sure where you’re located, but I ordered this one in the fall to keep my battery on. Worked fine and battery is back in the Landroid now for spring. WORX WA3881 18V/20V Quick 60-Min Charger https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07S3KT91C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q33YAHR396RBXK80MJN3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Try this works great
BEOS® PREMIUM EDELSTAHL Spikes für Modell Worx S/M -Poliert -Gesenkte Schraubenlöcher-Entgratet- 12x Edelstahl Schrauben- Traktionsverbesserung für Mähroboter – Rasenmäher Roboter Radgröße 205 mm https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B08N82MX81/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SS6K7D27D6MVGD0QMDPD
Y'a for sure their probably cheaper, but the original works 4.0ah is 129$,compared to 49$.. You can almost buy 3 of the knockoff for same price,, so it's a gamble a guess..
If your in the US you have better battery options then me..
I'd get those, 2 X 6.0ah for just a little more them the 4.0ah
I did see those spike rims on Etsy, but they were to expensive for me here in Canada, I think 70$, the studs cost me 8$ I think. Now for batteries, I don't know where you are in the world, but Amazon has some pretty good deals sometimes, I would not try to make some using 18650 (that's me personally).
Here in Canada I would get this one. 49$ delivered 4.0ah
This doesn’t mean you need to lay the wire again. If the second lawn is a big loop, it may be easier to cut the wires at the second loop and swap them over and rejoin (after testing). I’ve had great success with these: Wire Connector Kit-110 Pcs Premium Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors，for Electrical Waterproof Marine Automotive Solder Sleeve https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B093BQNY6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XQTRNE5YH2P5W1TQ023J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve been cutting and rejoining the wire many times as I optimize the boundary wire to avoid issues, and those connectors are fast to use and have worked for me.
>Thank you! -I like this idea as well! I assume a switch like this would do https://smile.amazon.com/Uxcell-a12072300ux0597-Single-Double-Toggle/dp/B01BTTOEQ6/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1HPKQBS39QS5S&keywords=Single+Pole+Double+Throw+switch&qid=1647651587&sprefix=single+pole+double+throw+switch%2Caps%2C70&sr=8-8. I'm thinking I may go with this now. Just need that SPDT switch.
If you already have a trimmer, personally I wouldn't bother buying the three-in-one Mower, Trimmer, and Edger. I tried using the mower add-on, but the wheels are equivalent to plastic blocks. I felt like I was a kid again pushing one of these around.
The only reason I bought the Three-in-One Trimmer, Edger, and Mower was because I had just bought my first house and didn't have a trimmer, an edger, or a mower. Not having a mower is why I spent the extra money for the Landroid because of my thought process of "Pay a couple of hundred dollars for a good, traditional mower that will last me 10-20 years, or spent a couple hundred more and buying a robotic mower and never have to worry about mowing?". As someone with allergies and as someone maintaining a home on my own, I can wholeheartedly say the Landroid has been my best home purchase to date; my air fryer coming in a not too distant second place.
The only disadvantage ofusing a trimmer to mow that small area is the lack of consistent mowing lines. Also, if you aren't careful, you run the risk of cutting it too short and harming your grass. Since you are about to buy a Landroid, which more or less mows in a random pattern bouncing off the perimeter wire (thus, no consistent back-and-forth mowing lines), I'm guessing you are already okay with not having those lines!
I have a similar setup. This past summer being the first one with my Landroid, I tried running a wire between the cracks of the sidewalk that run every two feet or so. While I love my Landroid, I wouldn't recommend running the wire to that area.
Due to the area in front of my house being narrow, the Landroid would often bounce around off the permitter wire excessively. Also, the curb between the street and my parkway is rounded. It took many readjustments before I was able to reach the point where it wouldn't slightly slide down the curb and my phone would start beeping "Outside of Permitter Wire".
I bought a cheap, lightweight electric Black & Decker Three-in-One Mower, Trimmer, Edger that I primarily use as my trimmer around my fence line. Next spring, it is unlikely that I will lay the perimeter wire to that small area and instead, I'll just quickly trim it with my electric trimmer. For me, it is much less of a hassle.
I try this best results in 2021 BEOS® PREMIUM EDELSTAHL Spikes für Modell Worx S/M -Poliert -Gesenkte Schraubenlöcher-Entgratet- 12x Edelstahl Schrauben- Traktionsverbesserung für Mähroboter – Rasenmäher Roboter Radgröße 205 mm https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B08N82MX81/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_KWHQHWYCQM4ZDME116YF
I have this Spikes in use and they work great BEOS® PREMIUM EDELSTAHL Spikes für Modell Worx S/M -Poliert -Gesenkte Schraubenlöcher-Entgratet- 12x Edelstahl Schrauben- Traktionsverbesserung für Mähroboter – Rasenmäher Roboter Radgröße 205 mm https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B08N82MX81/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_Q7MKGZ4DTH6162PCHKSW
They have as well an video with subtitle
>https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00U0WRXKS
That's just boundary wire, you'll get that in the kit with the mower. If you can wire it off by creating an island (and it's a suitable size) the mower will stay out of it.
Ok, for example with this accessory?
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and this one does not need the off-limit accessory?
Get a box now, so you have them for later
GWHOLE Pack of 20 Electrical IDC 314-BOX Wire Connectors for Robotic Lawn Mowers, Irrigation Applications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9KH8PT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_928Q6QXM84EF42QJGV4Z
2) never found a “normal”, but I changed from factory tothese at 600 hours when the factory ones seemed dull - but in their defense, the factory ones did heavy cutting getting the yard even once, and then again when I lowered the deck once more. I intend on changing out every ~800 hours moving forward, though my current set still looks in relatively good shape after 675 hours.
I’m sure you’ll get A LOT of differing answers though
It looks like Amazon can get these here tomorrow.
Use smart buttons to restart it, and install a wifi hub inside the battery compartment. that works for me and I restart it from my office:
https://www.amazon.com/SwitchBot-switch-button-controlled-compatible/dp/B07B4D9KVX/
I wonder if something like this would work, ajustable 3v to 24v and 2.5a max,, you cut and connect directly after the "round connector", price is cheap.
Screwed 2 of these on the top of each tread. Very simple and easy. No longer slips and hardly ever gets stuck. I do have a couple corners where the spikes have done damage to the grass but overall a high improvement.
Marrkey 12mm Carbide Screw Tire Studs Snow Spikes Anti-Slip/Anti-ice for Car/Snowmobile/Tractor/ATV/UTV/Motorcycle/Short Lug/Bicycles/Shoes with Insta https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JKLVYL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_DGtHwmm2a2eXK
I put an ultrasonic cat repellent on top of my Landroid using a USB to 9V adapter. I figure if it's basically patrolling the yard anyway I might as well take advantage. I did some DIY waterproofing with duct tape since it's not an outdoor device. Time will tell if it holds up to the rain. It seems to be working -- there's far less cat poop in the yard and I've personally seen cats react to it and run away where they used to stalk the Landroid like this one is doing.
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https://www.amazon.com/Catscram-Electronic-Cat-Repellent-Adapter/dp/B00L5M6BAU
I used dry lube for a bicycle chain. Fixed all my issues. https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Chain-Teflon/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr\_1\_8?dchild=1&keywords=dry+lube&qid=1631286602&sr=8-8
SwitchBot Smart Switch Button Pusher - No Wiring, Wireless App or Timer Control, Add SwitchBot Hub Compatible with Alexa, Google Home, HomePod, IFTTT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4D9KVX/
With a couple of those, you can restart it remotely when it gets stuck.
Just my input: It's a useful thing, especially for Landroid owners to have on hand a multi-meter. It can be a very inexpensive one for this purpose, like the one in the link below.
Not only can it determine, by measuring at the opened connector (between power brick and charging base) if ≈22 volts d.c. is present (ie brick is working), it can measure battery voltage as well as voltage at swinging contacts.
Most useful (to me at least) is the ability to determine, with it, if the boundary wire loop has the proper range of resistance (i.e. is low < 5.5 ohms) or is too high, meaning either a break, near break or a bare wire contacting the earth. The green LED is not as sensitive. It can actually be lit when the boundary loop suffers such a fault (Landroid indicates 'wire missing').
Anyway, I'm not a salesperson, so take what's said here as merely what I found quite useful regarding Landroid.