I have my fire extinguisher under the driver side seat, under my legs. I use the Bracketeer; easy to find and easy to grab. I sit with the seat completely upright and pretty far forward for my height (5'10") and can still move the seat forward about 2-3" if I wanted to, so there's still plenty of adjustment, even with a 2.5lb extinguisher.
I don't feel as though I'm compromising anything having the extinguisher under the seat. Having it under the driver seat means my passenger doesn't have to deal with it being in his/her footwell.
got the muffler on marketplace for 100$ brand new unopened but pretty sure it’s the same as this one https://www.kseriesparts.com/VIB-1059.html resonator off amazon the yonoka catback ended up selling the muffler because it was too quiet
Yonaka Acura RSX Type-S 2002-2006 2.5" Stainless Steel Performance Catback Exhaust https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00OBVYB86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_J2DACYZ12CP2YBQSZD8K
Damn! I wish I would've seen those quick latches years ago when trying to sort out my bumper. I went out and got some oversized toolbox latches but never installed them cause I worried they would rust and drip. Those rod latches seem much better for that use case
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749LVBW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just bought this one, and it seems to be the cheapest legitimately waterproof cover on amazon.
It has reflectors all around it, and straps that go underneath the car so it doesn't blow off, and a zipper on the driver's side to access the door. No complaints so far, but it is a bit of a hefty price tag.
I actually did just get a carplay stereo, and am getting almost exactly you posted! I’m getting a 2 usb 3.0 port though instead of a USB and aux.
I’m using 1 usb for carplay, and the other USB for just power from the battery. The reason for this is to not interrupt carplay with the second port if I were to use USB splitters.
Ah, gotcha. I had the same light on mine when I purchased it. I ordered this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072XH9GLW/ - which was pretty expensive, but it was able to give, and clear the SRS code. I think it was 15-2 or something which tends to come on when someone brakes hard and the seatbelt locks.
I bought mine off Amazon. If you've never replaced them before you're in for a treat. It's one of the most time consuming projects on our cars. You'll want a hole saw, sawzall, lots of WD-40 or lubricant of choice, a blowtorch, case of beer, a ball joint press kit, 20 ton press (optional but very helpful for installation) and a couple hours at least, I think I spent 4-5 on it. My suspension had 200+k on it though, so needless to they did not want to be removed.
These were the ones I put in about 700 miles ago: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002799EI6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vzs5AbGPHYXGV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9O6JK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Szs5AbWAFQZJ9
I bought my control boxes off Amazon as well as my rolls of RGB LEDs. 5m 12v Ip65 Waterproof 300 LED Strip Light RGB 5050 SMD String Ribbon Tape Roll https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008UP1QLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7PK.CbA5Y82P1
Honestly got a couple different shades of this 5x8" leather patch and if it still looks like ass I'll just get some seat covers
Yo any advice on how to repair this in my '03 base RSX? Car keys for scale. Already thought about
Here's the patch thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQCIH25/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_08urFb218W8AT
Ya'll should put one of those steering wheel wraps on. I know redline used to have them, but I picked up this one off amazon. Mine came out pretty well and fits perfectly. Game changer for sure.
If you have the stock radio you can just plug in a cassette to aux adapter and it works pretty good its what I've used in my car
2 Ports Dual USB 3.0 Male to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY1WDIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I deleted my cigarette port in the front console just above the cup holders because there’s one at the back seat. And I replaced it with this USB extension. Looks factory and I never use the cigarette plug anyway.
I know it’s not exactly what you’re after, but figured I’d share anyway!
From personaly i run this clutch: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019KQ26UG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_G41YGJVM1122VZQXYECG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Though it was definitely cheaper when i bought this kit in 2019 i do daily my car and beat on her daily so i can vouch for the quality. The main reason for me was that it came with a flywheel so i didn't have to send my old one out to get resurfaced and the potential performance gain from it actually being lighter. The only thing i can add is probably sourcing your Throwout bearing from somewhere else, I and another redditor on here have had one of the ears that hold it onto the clutch fork break off. Not that it made anything fail but it's more of a peace of mind thing. I replaced mine with a Throwout bearing from ACT.
I've been using the Vicseed phone mount for about 2 years now and I love it. It has both a suction cup attachment for the window or a vent clip that can be used. It's super secure when attached and doesn't bounce around a lot or anything like that.
Best result would be to remove the OEM material and reupholster it with new leather. ChrisFix has a video guide or you can send it to a specialist.
If you need a temporary solution this cover is decent
Though i can't say this is how it will be for you when I was buying this exedy clutch kit for my rsx: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019KQ26UG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_V9YYXA8X91P0NB2WYXGS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I did have one of the ears on my throw out bearing break you know the ones that grab around the fork. The thing is i didn't notice a difference since it's sliding on the input shaft and still had the other part on. I went and took the extra step and just bought a new bearing from act.
Overall the clutch is great the flywheel is fine too i rip on the car pretty much everyday i never had issues with the exedy bearing until i saw part of it broke but that can happen sometimes
i’m using this:
Siless Liner 157 mil (4 mm) 36... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B75PD8B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
i did my door panels in january and noticed a significant decrease in road noise and my speakers sounded better. it’s really affordable compared to dynamat or one of the big name brands.
it should be pretty straight forward, remove the front seats and center console, the carpet is like a big U shape that pulls right out in about 30 seconds. vacuum and clean the floor. stick down the sound deadening, and reinstall everything on top. i can document it for sure 👍🏻
I bought the Power Stop brake and rotor kit off Amazon about 18 months ago. It has front and back pads and rotors. The pads are ceramic and the rotors are Geomet coated, whatever that means lol. They stop well, don't make noises, and were a really decent price at the time. I paid about $175 and it looks like they're about $309 now unfortunately. Here's the link if you wanna check em out.
Haha so the fitment was actually fixed a little bit. Funny story I was not paying attention when I was backing up and hit the exhaust pretty hard. Ended up bending it in three spots so I had to take it to a shop to get it rewelded back together. They actually tucked the mid pipe a little more and brought out the tip a little bit farther.
As for hangers I did actually switch them out to extended ones. The oem ones are fine if you aren’t reining the lip but since you are you’d want to get different ones.
just ended up getting these ones from Amazon
Retainers- iJDMTOY (2) Xenon Bulb Retainer Adapter Holders, Compatible With Acura RSX RL Honda CR-V Prelude Odyssey Install H1 Aftermarket Xenon LED Conversion Kit Light On Headlights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DKEXE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BF7A8HFG9YC6QP2AT82S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bulbs- LRTER H1 LED Headlight Bulbs 60 W 12000 Lumens Extremely Bright 6000K Upgraded CSP Chips Conversion Kit Halogen Replacement IP68 Waterproof, Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091KPSQ1X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SSBJAFG3QS599YTAXMF8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Hope this helps 👍
I got one of these over a year ago, just a generic aluminum radiator:
Got some new hoses too and no leaks at all. Fit great and works with the stock fans. I could be wrong but I think you have to buy the Mishimoto fans that go with their radiator.
Yeah everybody always seems to talk down on drilled and slotted rotors which I guess I kind of understand because it's doesn't really help with braking but it's not like it's making it worse? (If you're not buying cheap ones. ) I found these on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/2002-2006-Acura-Honda-Rotors-Ceramic/dp/B016E1W8PI/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=r1+concepts+brake+rotors+kit+rsx+base&qid=1642723080&sr=1-9&vehicle=2003-58-747------------1&vehicleName=2003+Acura+RSX My girl dad recommended me this brand and said they were good , he ran them on his porsches so there's that I guess. I haven't tried them thought so I can't say anything but he liked them!.
This one here. It's a bit pricey, but it reads SRS codes (most of the cheaper ones don't) and will give a brief description. Note - select "Honda" when prompted each time if you get this one!
Edit: Forgot link -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072XH9GLW/
Get a Bluetooth one and this app.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ovz.carscanner
Or a different app if you think you've found a better one.
Bluetooth dongles provide much more functionality than code scanners I've used.
Is it best? I dunno. It's certainly a valid option. The nice thing about doing it that way is that you're keeping the stock low/high beam functionality. With our cars, it seems like most people opt for bi-xenon projectors and then they just leave the factory high beams unplugged. I have bi-xenons, but what I did was buy a splitter harness (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Headlight-Halogen-Connector-Harness/dp/B075MPY6JP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=9005+splitter&qid=1641314248&sprefix=9005+spl%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-3) so that the bi-xenon high beams and the original high beams both work. I have 6000k HID in the projectors and 6000k LEDs in the high beams.
If I recall correctly, the 02-04 headlights use H1 for both low and high beams? If you wanted to do this, you would need an H1 splitter instead of the 9005 one I used.
I bought Gabriel Ultra Readymounts https://www.amazon.com/Gabriel-G57523-ReadyMount-Loaded-Strut/dp/B07S385S69
They sat height the first week or so then settled up to stock ride height.
Thanks bro 💯 got these below and hardwired an extra 12V outlet to the fuse box, then plugged them to that outlet. Works great so far, and hiding the wires is pretty straightforward.
You are going to need this: https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1725-Amplifier-Integration-Harness/dp/B0007WRQEE (double check that).
You also want to pick up some noise filters for the whine. It may take you a few different brands to get it right. I have some monster ones, but I don't think they make them anymore.
Tbh had the same issue with my type s (stock) kept blowing through alternators every week or two and luckily the manager was kind enough to give me replacements every time, i bought this: Premier Gear PG-13966 Professional Grade New Alternator https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00KY0C8U6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_8K4GJZ50KFC1MMGWW2WB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And i never had a problem since then I'm assuming since it was remanufactured the cheap replacement parts would go in the reman. It cost more now but it was definetly worth the buy
The guy I bought my car from a little over 3 years ago had just replaced the headlights and they still look pretty good. Just barely starting to get some sun spots.
https://www.amazon.com/Depo-317-1143P-US1-Acura-Chrome-Headlight/dp/B004J32Q56
Mine was also touching the bumper so I got this hanger with four holes so it lets it hang a little lower. The holes aren’t as small as the stock rubber handed but so far I’ve had no issues.
NORSMIC Exhaust Hanger Rubber -4PCS, Universal Hole Size Diameter 12mm (0.47inch), Muffler Bracket Mount, Rubber Insulator for Car/Truck/Jeep/SUV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XQ93KMP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5TK7R747YYYZCTW4629Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve been digging through Amazon and maybe something like this that I can permenantly screw to the body and restore more mounting positions?
I think something like this should work, right? Looks like the 2 ring-esque terminal ends should fit my custom configuration
Do you have a touch screen stereo or do you plan to get one? I replaced that whole assembly with this: https://www.amazon.com/BATIGE-USB3-0-Extension-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B072KGMJ5N/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=flush+mount+usb+aux&qid=1624389827&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVkgwTDQzQ1VPNTVUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExSVpHMjdFM0M5NVBVJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1OTgzNTEyWktYQjk5S0ZBWTYyJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
It doesn't fast charge, but it does charge and provides a plug-in for Android Auto or Apple CarPlay. I have a fast charger in the other outlet behind the center console for charging.
Go to Autozone and ask for a tie rod end puller. They have them for sale, but they also rent them out. Unless you're swapping out suspension constantly, it's not really something that most people need to own. The one I got from them looked like this: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27175-Damage-Free-Remover/dp/B004FDQSQ8
The top of it that has the cut-out area that will tuck in securely under the rod end boot (be careful not to rip the boot open though). Once it's in place, you will use a socket to turn that bolt with the cup on top, and that will push the rod end out of the arm. This method has always worked great for me.
Side note...time for new brake pads, perhaps? Looks like you're scoring the rotors. They may need replaced at this point too.
Check this Blox knob out on Amazon ...
Blox Racing BXAC-00208 Gun Metal 10 x 1.25mm Thread Size Billet Original 5-Speed Shift Knob <><><> weighs one pound (16 oz) <> Available in different thread sizes also
You can buy on Ebay or Amazon for under $40
This just happened to me. I replaced the whole thing with this one IACV Idle Air Control Valve 16022-PRB-A01 For 2002 2003 2004 2005 Honda Civic 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Acura RSX 16022-PRB-A02 AC007 AC4249 AC480 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083NQ8XYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W4CDBA657KTG2AW6Z0P7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Its $40 bucks and my issue went away. Also you probably have air bubbles in your coolant
If your are on a budget:
I bought this cover and it's actually a good match. It only covers the bottom of the seat instead of the back so it doesn't block airbags.
MEWANT Hand Sewing Black Artificial Leather Steering Wheel Cover Wrap for Honda S2000 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Civic Si 2002 2003 2004 Acura RSX Type-S 2005 Accessories Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KLWPQFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cG1MFb0ETRA62
My hatch wouldn’t stay up either and I replaced the struts with some I bought on amazon for like $20. They work perfect and I recommend them to everyone who doesn’t want to spend $100+ on replacements.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G8JCYKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_golyCbFJ57EFT
I picked this up on amazon and it’s taken care of nearly every fastener on the car, inside and out.
moveland 8mm 10mm Push-Type Bumper Fasteners Rivet Clips, 200PCS Car Body Clips with Fastener Removal Tool
moveland 8mm 10mm Push-Type Bumper Fasteners Rivet Clips, 200PCS Car Body Clips with Fastener Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LD72N5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1LEvDbJKK3DFH
I got this cheap bundle on amazon. Double din with bluetooth, FM, and comes with the backup camera: $45 shipped. You could also just get the camera if you already have a head-unit that supports the backup cam.
If you haven't already, I would recommend getting some silicone sealer and putting it around the headlight where the plastic cover meets the casing. Oftentimes cheaper headlights don't have good water proofing. I've done this on multiple sets of cheap headlights and haven't had issues with them fogging up. Additionally, the coating on cheap headlights is usually cheap and will start peeling off after awhile and will look real ugly. Trust me, I know from personal experience. The plastic can also be a bit softer and will get rock chips more easily, so to deal with both of those issues, I highly recommend getting lamin-x. It's a protective coating that'll cost you just $60 and save you a lot of headache in the long run. Be careful applying it and don't freak out when you finish. Immediately after application the headlights will look foggy because there will still be some condensation trapped between the cover and the headlight from the application process. That's totally normal; just leave your car parked out in the sun for a week or so and that will clear up, leaving the headlights looking super clean so long as the application wasn't botched.
Yes! I had intermittent AC and I got the AC clutch holding tool off Amazon, got the damn thing off in 10 mins. Ac works like a dream now, I thought it was an electrical issue.
I have these Spec D lights too. You need the "Parking light" bulb which you can find by Sylvania. Here's the ones I bought on Amazon: Sylvania LED Amber Mini Bulb
I found the parking light fuse that I use for $9.05 on k-series parts: Acura RSX 02-04 light socket (Parking)
Hope this helps!
I'm seeing this one for 2004 Denso 234-9005 Oxygen Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5UFVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V5KVDbM13SB0J
Is that the right part? And yeah the sensor is just underneath the front of the car and is a simple ratchet and plug right?
Took this from another comment when I answered the same question.
I used these adapters with these LEDs.
LEDs are great but nothing to write home about; pretty typical of Chinese LED kits these days.
The adapter worked great but it took a little messing around with to fit properly.
The barrel part is too long and too loose, so I cut it down about 0.75” with my Dremel to match the original bulb socket, then put some high-temp RTV gasket maker around the inside to hold the light in place.
High-temp RTV is the only adhesive I had at the time that could withstand the temps that the LED will reach, but I suppose any adhesive will do, as long as it doesn’t burn on the LED housing or melt into the plastic.
Probably the gasket for where this bolts to the head or the o ring on the solenoid itself. Here's an example of what the solenoid looks like inside it's block that mounts to the head. Note that the solenoid can come out of the aluminum manifold.
https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-917-224-Variable-Timing-Solenoid/dp/B00OZVOFKG
https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-SP8043M-Module-Assembly/dp/B00LPIRKUY
The install is really easy. Take out the back seats, opens the panel with four screws, take out the old one and put in the new one. Let the car idle for a few minutes to get comfortable with it
Hey man, if you’re still looking, get one off of amazon. I got a replica from autodynasty nearly 2 years ago and it’s still holding up fine. Came painted NHBP and everything. If you click here and check reviews you can see pictures of it on my rsx
I found this one on Amazon if that helps.
RedlineGoods Steering Wheel Cover Compatible with Acura RSX 2002-06. Black Leather-Blue Thread https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XFLR17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P.-0CbYP9RRHN
Yes probably the easiest way would be to get led strips with a controller already like these Or you can install a dimmer switch in the circuit
I'm pretty new with cars to and I'd suggest learning to take your stereo out and put a new one in. It's a kinda fun project and you'll learn how to take out your current radio. here's one similar to the one I put in I couldn't find the exact one I threw in but this ones got a cd player, my one was just bluetooth, aux, and radio.
This video was kinda helpful along with I watched like 2 others to make sure I was doing it. If you need help I could show you exactly what tools I used to unscrew some shit and how to pry some shit open cause these videos weren't all too helpful on some bits of it.
Lol all in all being new to cars and dumb it took me 5 hours to get one in but its waaaaaay better than stock now
Mostly in the door panel and in the glove box. I put this stuff in between the plastic door panel and the metal door skin, as well as the back of the glove box and the dashboard around the box.
Gotcha, yeah it's some serious dough! The bc is around $110 right on ebay, so kinda a no-brainer but was skeptical with some reviews. Here's the k-tuned arm: https://www.amazon.com/K-Tuned-Billet-Shifter-Arm/dp/B0099C9E4S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541139146&sr=1-1&keywords=KTD-BIL-ARM It replaces the plastic arm with the spring that's in the box, left side. It gives the up/down/left/right sense of tension, from what I gather. I will probably use it for now with the stock box. Just need to get back on the road. Had it sitting for a week while the ecu was Hondata upgraded. Rather excited to see how it drives with all the changes.
Noico on Amazon Price hasn't changed much since when I picked it up either. I had a leftover rubber roller from lithographing that helped with installation.
I just bought the Tanabe Medallion Touring system. This in conjunction with an Skunk2 Alpha Race Header is absolutely STUPENDOUS for highway driving. Nearly zero drone. The combo plus my AEM v2 intake screams in vtech (in a good way, girlfriend who sat in the back for a few pulls when I was showing it off to a friend, said it was really really loud). But yeah I went with the Medallion Touring since it looks inconspicuous and sounds very close to stock, not boom-y or rasp-y at all. Plus I'm actually getting better MPG now, was averaging about 27 pure stock, am up to 30 with the RH/Cat Back/Intake.
Oh yeah, it's night and day difference. Highly recommended. Though I would recommend getting this one though since it looks sleeker and you can leave it on all the time.
That being said, I've detailed cars on the side for years. This stuff works amazing.
Eagle One 824331 All Wheel and Tire Cleaner - 23 oz. Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030Q259U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ey4wAbA913QN2
Keep in mind if the wheels have been neglected, the brake dust can literally be baked into the paint of the wheels. If that is the case... Nothing you can do.
Do you mind if you show me which clips I would need? I have these clips right now Phgiveu 10mm Push-type Nylon Bumper Fender Flare Fastener Rivet Clips, 40 Pcs / Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00842A7F4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_uwm24o2sMWZsb
I believe this is the one that would work for me. I'm going to try to find one in store today.
Absolute RLS125 12-VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KR9GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RlGlzbB2HARCY
If I can find it, I'll try to wire it up tonight if I have time after dinner!
Hard to tell from the picture but that one looks like 4 pin. Make sure you get a 5 pin. If they don't have any at the auto parts store, I'd recommend this exact one, simply because it comes with the relay and a plug in for the relay with pigtails on it, and it's waterproof :)
Pico 5593PT 12 Volt 40 Amp 5 Terminal General Purpose Automotive Change-Over Relay and Connector Pigtail Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007UTFJHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0tGlzbY6SBP4C
This is what I use. Works great. Got rid of the 3rd gear issue. Also car goes.into gear wayyyyy eaiser when it's cold out.
Red Line (50204) SAE 75W80 API GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant - 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCBEG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_u4gezb4FJ88PY
I got a package deal on Amazon for Powerbass twin 12" subs in a ported and tuned enclosure with 1100W amp and wiring kit. There's a deal to buy all three for less than $200. On the amp you can tune the bass for what you're comfortable with. It sounds pretty good, no complaints on quality! I screwed the amp right into the back of the sub enclosure and it's all good! It's so cheap, I'd recommend it.