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Just plug a $10 bluetooth adapter into your cars diagnostic port and you can set it up to display gauges for all sorts of your cars sensors, and diagnose fault codes without having to get a mechanic to do it. Lots of other nifty features too. Good to get a cheap tablet and use it as a permanent display in the car.
Yep, use Torque Pro app and a suitable wireless OBD reader ($20 ish from Amazon) and enjoy massive amounts of data. Most modern cars drop accelerometer data through the OBD II port.
Edit: swapped the link & name of app.
Can you recommend any ODB2 readers that:
1) Allow me to leave them plugged in continuously without draining battery when the car is off
2) Support Android phones via Bluetooth
3) Support the Torgue Pro app (or an app with similar functionality).
4) Are reasonably affordable (below $30).
This is the 1st time I've heard about this, and while it seems interesting to try I want to make sure I buy a reader that supports all the functionality I would like.
Utiliza los sensores del auto, los cuales no son muy precisos.
Si fuera un dispositivo que se instalara en el tubo de llenado del tanque, con sensores propios entonces tendría sentido.
No es más que uno de estos re etiquetado. La app Torque tiene aun mas funciones que la que están promoviendo.
If your dad has an Android device and still has a CEL (or just likes to mess around with his car) get him one of these and this app
Mine went missing, but any time my CEL went off or i just wanted to see what my engine was doing it was nice to have.
The App is also 1000x times easier to use than a real scantool with a lot more information packed in. It even googles the CEL codes for you.
The best thing ever though, you can reset the CEL with it when you fix the problem.
But take the CD out of the box before you give it to him, that CD has more viruses than a public toilet in a truck stop.
$85 is insane! You can get a Bluetooth OBDII scanner for $10 on Amazon, and get the Torque app on android for around $3. As far as I can tell, that's identical functionality for $13 bucks.
Yall requested links, so here you go:
I installed the "Lightning Home" launcher replacement, and made it not my default, then I created a homescreen of my most useful Torque widgets and common controls for driving, like a subsonic widget, and maps. I have tasker set up to open the app when I connect to my car's bluetooth and put the phone in my QI charging dock.
Protip 1: a lot of autopart stores will check what the light means for free.
Protip 2: Get this And this and be able to check the lights and reset them yourself along with monitoring a ton of other vehicle functions
"Torque" can do what you want, I just found it, and it supports skins, thank god, obd 2 support, HUD mode, and I think it does do navigation as well
It is an excellent performance and diagnostic tool that connects to your vehicle using an OBD II Bluetooth adapter.
Some of the features include:
There is a free lite version available, but the pro version really is worth the money in my opinion as it has helped me quickly diagnose issues with my car a few times in the last year already.
I use Torque paired with a bluetooth-enabled reader, links the fault codes to a database that gives you an idea of what's going wrong, been pretty handy to have an idea of what's going on.
i just use a $12 obd2 dongle and Torque Pro on my phone.
1) Mini Elm327 that works with Torque Pro app on Android. This one works: [link]
2) Torque Pro from Play Store: [link]
Total cost: $12. Works well, used by many.
I would love it if there was an official Torque Pro for AA. Apparently there's some work arounds, but I haven't tried to get it working.
Get one of these for $20 on Amazon and this app from Google Play (probably an apple version available too) and you're good to go.
An option is to buy a bluetooth OBD2 tool like this and then use Torque. This will emulate an OBD2 fault reader for only $15.
There is also a lite version of Torque for free. I believe it will be sufficient for just reading fault codes. So you'll only need to buy the dongle.
Now those links I provided are for Android phones. You'll be able to find the same thing for iPhones on google.
Grab an OBDII reader, for ~$20. I've had this one for several years. Put Torque Pro on your device and go forth and diagnose. You can get a dedicated handheld tool, but I prefer the features of using Torque. Some cool addins available for it too.
Check out Torque. I'm not sure if its on iPhone but that's what I use on my android device and it can do what you are looking for and much more.
You will also need a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter. I got one off of amazon for $8.
I bought the BAFX Scanner for about $25, and then paid $5 for the Torque Pro app.
I think the excellent reviews speak for themselves, but I can look at all kinds of live data, codes, drive cycle status, etc. It's done everything and more than I expected for only $30 total.
Better yet, Bluetooth ODBII: [link]
Pair it with the Torque Android app and you'll always know what's going on with your car. Even tracks gas mileage, trip cost, RPM, acceleration, realtime HP, etc.
Yes thank you for this great tip. i myself have been using a Bluetooth OBD 2 scanner from ebay/amazon for like $10. And it connects to an android app call Torque Pro which tells me what the code is and I can google it from the app to find out more. Amazing combo. I can scan the code instantly from my parking space.
OBD 2 is great.
I bought a $10 OBD 2 Bluetooth adapter that plugs into my van and it connects to my cell phone using the "Torque" app.
It shows real-time and average MPG.
OBD 2 is only on 1996 and newer vans.
You can get a bluetooth obd2 adapter. Keep it plugged into, connect it to your phone, get a phone mount next to the instrument cluster. The car knows all that information like coolant temp, it just doesn't have anywhere setup to display it.
Something like this
Torque is a great android app that lets you read obd2 data and clear codes. That app and a $20 bluetooth OBD2 reader have been great for myself and friends and family. Lots of real time monitoring tools too.
I don't think you can "extract your exact GPS pings", without an app running at the time to log it (i.e. Torque).
Pay the ticket, it'll be a lot easier and cheaper than fighting it.
I read a story about a guy who was using his OD2 reader and GPS with Torque, when he got pulled over for speeding and was able to pull up the top speed that was recorded, proving that he wasn't speeding. The cop said "I guess I'll have to recalibrate my radar, have a nice day".
Using data/gps is always laggy or inaccurate to me. What about getting those 10 dollar OBD2 sensors from Amazon and hooking it up to your phone wirelessly? Get an app like this:
You can mount your phone on your dash/vent.
The android e-ink is either the coolest thing or totally stupid, i'm not sure which. Can it really function as a useful android? or is it just an overly complicated reader?
I'll give one specific example. I have an elm327 code reader. with torque android software. It can be frustrating reading fine print on the phone in direct sunlight.
The graphics are probably too slow to see a needle sweep, but for most things single frames a second would be enough.
If I were you I'd start by unplugging the battery again, both terminals. Clean the posts again, keep it unplugged for like 15 minutes, then reconnect the battery, making sure the connections are secure and properly tightened down. I think the biggest thing is to make sure the terminals are really connected well. Also, it's possible but unlikely that your battery might be going bad, so might want to get that checked because a weak battery can cause all sorts of weird issues like you're having.
If that still does not work, I think autozone or advanced auto will use a code scanner on your car for free, but it's been a while since I've done that so I'm not entirely sure. If you're still wanting to get your own code reader though, if you have an android I recommend an app called "torque" (there are suggested code readers on that page and can be bought from amazon for pretty cheap).
Scan the ODB2 port and see what the code is. From there, you should at least know what sensor is throwing the check light.
I had similar issues that the dealer would just reset, so I got a Bluetooth scanner that I just leave permanently connected. When it goes off, my phone looks the code up and if it is bullshit, I can just reset it myself. I use Torque as the software. Pretty cool to just watch all of your data with it too.
I definitely recommend this app: [link]
It has a ton of features and even modules you can download separately for additional features.
I picked up a bluetooth OBDII scanner on Amazon (this was quite a few years ago) for dirt cheap and it worked like a champ. I'm sure one can roll the dice on those fairly confidently these days but as always, research is never a bad thing!
i had one of these dongles for the car ( havent plugged it in to our latest car yet) and an app on my android ( my spare phone now) called torque pro .
works really well for me. have used it to clear errors on several cars. it can show realtime sensor readings whilst the car is running which is something most scantools below pro level cant do. it also saved my wife from having to drive to my parents 60 miles away to get my dads generic scantool
This and the cheap Torque app will save you a few trips to the dealer in the future.
Bluetooth OBD2 adapter like this one plus Torque are cheaper and waaaay more featureful than the basic code scanner... if you have an Android device already.
All of the cool kids carry one of these now:
[link] (referral-free link) $25-ish
And a cheap smartphone with a copy of Torque Pro (yes, the $5 upgrade version):
Five Minute Tutorial:
1- Sit in the drivers seat. Reach down to your left knee. Pull off the cover over some fuses and a magical connector.
2- Shove the ELM327 vertically into the connector.
3- Turn on Bluetooth on the cheap phone (or your main phone).
4- Launch Torque Pro. Fiddle with the settings for a moment until it sees the car.
5- Look at the real-time data. Whoo! Pretty!
6- Go back to the main menu. Press 'Fault Codes'. Wait 30 seconds.
7- Now that you have the diagnostics code, you can start doing actual research into fixing it.
8- Hidden feature for happy fun driving: In the 'Real time Data' menu, find "Toggle HUD Mode". Turn it on. Place the phone display-side-up on the dashboard at night. Golly! Them's some purty blinking lights!
Buy a cheap adapter on eBay or Amazon and get Torque. (There's also a free version.) Works great. You can scan for error codes and read any values from the ECU. Should cost you less than $20.
This one is working pretty well for me, its also the best price i could find on it currently. It connects via bluetooth to your android phone. I use "Torque Pro" which is only $5, This has been very helpful in seeing the basic datapoints in my TDI, everything from load, boost, MAF, coolant temps, +alot. Best $15 buck i've spent and you can use it to read/clear codes! [link]
Torque for android phones/systems: [link]
I just ordered one of these and got this app. It tells you quite a bit about the car, speed, coolant temp, you can even run 0-60 times 1/4 miles. Way cheaper than getting an actual gauge.
I didn't code the Android software myself, I'm using an off the shelf solution called "Torque".
It uses a cheap $5 bluetooth obd2 dongle to speak with the tablet.
This is what I use. I paid for the pro version years ago. You can basically display any active sensor through a Bluetooth obd adapter. Also good for less reliable vehicles because you can read and clear engine codes.
What year, make and model do you have?
Mine is a 2015 limited, so here is the video I used for spark plug replacement on that, but it should be the same on similar models. If you aren't familiar, the coil packs are what you pull out to get to the plugs.
That being said, my car had this same code all the time and it was eventually fixed by replacing the cam sensors. Luckily, it was still under warranty, so I didn't have to shell out for all of the parts and labor. They did replace all of the coil packs first to no avail though. It went on for so long that I bought a Bluetooth ODB2 reader so that I could reset the code from my phone on-the-fly. Did that for about two years until they finally replaced the last sensor that resolved the issue. To test the sensors, they swapped them out for each other and got the next code, so instead of P0302, it would be P0303 or something like that. Pretty sure that you can do the same with coil packs to test as well if you have a reader. If not, they are only like $13 to $20 on Amazon, and I use torque to read and reset the ECU when needed.
Hope that helps!
Just grab any of them off of there at your most comfortable price point - it's just going to pair to your phone and relay info to an app (Torque, for instance). I spent about $20 on mine, from a store, and it hasn't failed me yet.
Torque Pro; it's worth the $5 or so.
Next time around, consider getting a legit ODB2 plug-in scanner that pulls live data and can clear DTC etc. Autel makes ones I recommend.
Sopravvaluti la qualità e la cura posta nelle centraline auto. Le centraline di fascia media fanno piuttosto cagare.
Senza contare che posso andare dal demolitore e comprare una centralina usata e cambiarla. Ed ecco che tutti i dati contenuti non hanno più nessun valore.
Io mi sono informato recentemente perchè la centralina della mia Panda multijet fa cagarissimo (come quasi tutte). Va in errore a caso e accende la spia maledetta che non vuol dire un cazzo, ogni volta andare dal meccanico per far togliere l'errore fasullo è una rottura di balle. Quindi ho deciso che comprerò una interfaccia OBD2 wifi (sto cercando di capire quale sia la migliore) e con questa app potrò vedere se è il caso di andare dal meccanico o eliminare l'errore da me.
I'm sure we will! Still think it's crazy I saw her on here - great talking with you. This is the app I used with that OBD2 bluetooth mod.
Torque Pro. Essentially it give you a deeper insight to your engine, and allows you to overlay information on a video feed. It is a nice complement if you ever want to record the performance of your car on a track day / quarter mile strip.
Reading deeper into this, you need the ODBII wirless adapter, for Torque to function correctly. I was hoping that it had the capacity to directly interface into the ODB without the need for the adapter.
I'm not OP but I've cleared codes with this OBD2 reader and Torque
Looking for a cheap phone that can handle showing torque pro(link) in my car via OBDII bluetooth adapter.
Ideally something that isn't super laggy and is less than $100.
Is used a good option here? An older samsung or something?
Yes this is a good tip. I have been using an adapter and Torque for almost 3 years now. It's an amazing app.
This is the app.
OBD adapter I use
You can use similar ones but don't cheap out on it. I got a 5 dollar one and it didn't work for long.
I'm not saying it'll do any sort of tuning but I wouldn't waste my money on the OBDEleven, if all you want is monitoring, buy a cheap bluetooth OBDII transmitter on ebay for $4 and hook it up to your phone and use Torque or Dashcommand. If this OBDEleven does tuning I'm not sure how they accomplish that with a stock ECU but hey, to each their own. I would definitely keep anything that says it'll boost performance like this in the rearview and keep driving!
I bought a bluetooth ODB2 adapter off Alibaba or something years ago for like $5. That and Torque ([link]) were very worth the investment. Between those two and google, you can save yourself a fortune in easy to fix problems. I've had several friends family members ask if I could check there's as well
I originally started with the free version of Torque, but because it worked so well, I was happy to pay for the paid version. I use it for guaging the speedometer on vehicles after putting new tires on, like the first set of winter tires on a new car since I can have GPS and vehicle sensors speeds up on a handy little dashboard on the app. Let's me know how far off the alternative size tires I bought are (in both cases, it was only about 2km/hr @100km/hr). Amazing the kind of information you can get from your vehicle with this setup.
ODB2 ports are present on every car after mid-nineties I believe it is. Some vehicles had them a few years earlier. They are located within something like 15cm of the steering column.
To see RPM from the gas engine I use a cheap OBD 2 bluetooth scanner and a program for Android devices called Torque.
I bought this dongle and the Torque Pro app. You have to enable the fast data stuff somewhere in the torque pro settings, can't remember where exactly. The dongle comes with its own free app which is ok, but Torque Pro is better.
Another thing you could do is to pick up a bluetooth OBD II plugin and download Torque on your phone (android only I think). You can check the fault code there and it will give you the exact code and some other great information that would serve you well before you buy the car.
All in all, its about a $35 investment, plus you can use it elsewhere.
I use an elm327 obd2 adapter which isn't very good but it's super cheap and it works. Pay more for one not shipped from China, it took a month for mine to ship because I didn't pay attention to that.
This is the app: [link]
I don't know about your new-fangled screen voodoo, but in my older model I just got a bluetooth OBDII thingie like this and Torque on my phone. MPG precision doesn't make sense for another decimal place but you shouldn't be limited by the number of digits available; you may be able to read above 99.9 (not that you'll need it). You can also read interesting data like timing advance, intake air and coolant temperature, various voltages, whatever the ECU reports.
For future referance, buying a device to broadcast the data and using the Torque app on Android works great and gives you a ton of cool data. I keep the adapter plugged in all the time and have it send real time data to my phone when I drive.
This is the OBD2 sensor I got. I never had an issue with it. The app Torque Pro It can give you a lot more info than just the codes, but that is all I use it for.
I picked up 20hp and 52lb/ft with a Cobb downpipe, AP, and a protune. I'll let you decide if the staged packages are worthwhile.
As for testing, pick up something like torque and do some pulls. It's not as good as a dyno or tracktime, but it's at least a reference point. Make sure the conditions of testing (temperature, surface, etc.) are as similar as possible.
Sounds like a good excuse to go ahead and get a cheap OBD2 bluetooth scanner and Torque to me.
You can get a Bluetooth OBDII dongle-thing for like $12 on amazon, and connect it with an Android phone with this app ($5):
Live engine stats, read codes, reset the light, etc etc etc.
Torque is an Android app that connects to the OBD2 reader via Bluetooth.
I've never used the brand in the picture before but it appears to be one of these tuners. I'd advise reading every review and manual you can find before you start messing with setting. You can make it much worse very quickly.
no this is way wrong. here is the android link https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque they have a lite and pro version
IIRC the flashing engine light means "an issue is occurring right now" while the solid light means "there was an issue".
Its entirely possible that you've just sucked some, crap into the fuel line which caused the stutter/misfire because you were really close to empty, but it cleared itself through.
It's possible that your tank itself was actually empty and you were running on what remains in the fuels system, so sucked air into the fuel line. You fill up, get back on the road, the air bubble gets to the injectors and spaffs air into the cylinders, making a less than optimal air/air fuel ratio and the engine stutter, thyen the fuel starts to flow again and all's right with the world except the check engine light.
Maybe order yourself a cheap bluetooth ODBC connector from Amazon or eBay, get a copy of Torque and investigate the error for yourself.
It will likely say something like "code P0304, cylinder number four is misfiring" (P030x are misfire codes, with the X denoting the cylinder number) or "code P0203, problem with cylinder 3 injector" (similarly, P020x are injector error codes). Most times, with one of these code, you can clear it and see if it comes back, which is pretty much what the dealer will do anyway.
If you want to ruin the value of your car, you could swap in a digital racing dash. Or you could get an ODB2 to Bluetooth module and use your phone as an extra digital screen, with an app like Torque, which would be a much better option.
Does it have to be from an aftermarket ECU? There are lots of apps that will pull data via the standard OEM OBD2 interface.
Check out something like this to get an idea of what is possible:
I think the only way is through obd2 diagnostic stuff [link]
I've been thinking of getting a bluetooth adapter and using that app just to monitor for regens.
I bought my first smartphone with a large app ecosystem last week. I'm looking forward to trying out Torque Pro when my bluetooth OBD2 adapter arrives.
Newer cars, it might not even be the alt.
Get this (iOS has an equivalent), and one of these, and you can crack any engine light issue. Mine is going on 11 years. Best purchase I've made.
I would love to build it like the Torque app on android but with a fully functioning high quality head unit to output to my amps for my high end audio system.
You're greatly simplifying how the tools work and the skills necessary.
Like saying an O.R. Surgeon is just some random dude who uses some GE equipment and tools.
But to be a bit more objective... These will get you started:
Just throwing out another recommendation for a scan tool. I've been using this one since 2014 and have had no issues with it (stays plugged into my truck 24/7). That along with the Torque Pro app works great.
You can get an ELM 327 for $10 and it works with the Torque App that is available for $5.
> Scan die mit einem AV-Scanner
Würde ich tun, wenn ich die CD denn überhaupt nutzen würde...
Ausschliessliche Nutzung per App gedacht, aus Play Store "Torque Pro", wenn "Torque Lite" funzt. Ansonsten gibt es ja eine reiche Auswahl an Apps, da muss man wohl ein bisschen rumprobieren, was am besten funktioniert.
OBD2 OBDII Bluetooth for Android Devices [link]
Sorry I just saw your comment. This is the one I have. And the app I have is
step 1, buy a 10$ OBDii reader from the amazon, such as this:
step 2, add an application to your cell phone:
Step 2a: Get a multi meter, power on car, the battery should read north of 13v when engine is running (as it's charging).
Step 3: find out the source of the issue.. VSC is traction control, should have 0 bearing on starting the car.
Diagram I made up for how to connect accessories to the EVIC or behind the radio.
I used this setup to add USB power ports at the EVIC to power a dash cam and GPS. I also installed an ELM327 Bluetooth OBDII Diagnostic adapter behind the radio. It turns on with the vehicle and can feed data to an Android phone running Torque Pro or CaroO Dashcam/Data Recorder.
The switch in the diagram would be used to turn on accessories while the vehicle is turned off, and the diode is part of that circuit. The diode is not necessary if not using a switch to enable key-off operation of accessory circuits.
^Disclaimer: ^Verify ^all ^wiring ^before ^making ^connections. ^I ^am ^not ^responsible ^for ^any ^damage ^you ^do. ^These ^circuits ^weren't ^intended ^to ^power ^additional ^items, ^so ^don't ^go ^hooking ^up ^your ^hair ^dryer, ^but ^a ^20-30W ^USB ^power ^supply ^or ^the ^like ^isn't ^going ^to ^hurt ^anything.
By the way, I'd suggest ordering one of these and downloading the Torque Pro app to use with it. Great addition to anyone's road kit, and it lets you access the kind of information you need to effectively diagnose car troubles. Information like fuel trims, trouble codes, O2 data, etc. are IMMENSELY helpful when people ask us for help here :-)
Keep the phone plugged in to audio and power. Turn on Stay Awake in Developer Options (tap 7 times on About Phone > Build Number if you don't have it, but since you have CM installed, you probably know what you're doing). Set up OK Google detection in Google settings, then use that for GPS (make sure the mics can hear you from wherever you're placing the phone). You'll need a way to route multiple USB cords if you're getting OBD data. Use a Bluetooth OBD adapter if possible with this app. As a media server, you'd need car WiFi pribably, but I'd just use Voice Assist like before to trigger music playback.
"should" is the proper term... Crack open your cheapy $5 ELM 327 you get on eBay and you'll probably discover that the solder connections, materials, and overall build quality is pretty low (perhaps the ones on Amazon are better quality, I don't know). This typically leads to loss of signal, weak signal, or just plain premature failure. In my experience with these things, the device (hardware) is usually the part that fails.
None the less, you do bring up a good point... The hardware is only as good as the software can interpret. I have used some crappy software for both iOS and Android, so be careful what app you download and use. Rather than go through all the bad ones, I'll just recommend the good ones.
Personally, I like "Torque" (Android version... [link]) , but it's not very "pretty" and can be daunting for a new user / someone new to cars in general.
If you wanted one that's a bit simpler for a beginner with more of a modern looking UI / design, try DashCommand... (Android version here... [link])
I believe there are iOS versions of DashCommand, not sure on Torque... As I typically use an Android device. Also, YES... These are "pay" apps which you need to pay to unlock the full potential of the app. For the amount of time, effort, and energy that went into making these apps work as well as they do, the developers are (of course) going to want something for their efforts. IMO, just pay the one time fee and be happy that your supporting the developer and community. Hell, you can go get a Google play or Apple prepaid card if you don't want to put your credit card out there.
Best of luck to all.
Torque also has HUD mode and can use your phone's GPS to give speed. Pick up an OBD2-Bluetooth adapter to go with it and you can watch most of the sensors in your engine and check/clear trouble codes if your check engine light comes on.
Have you dumped the codes to see what it's complaining about? If you're unfamiliar, it's easy. Plug in to vehicle, have phone join scanner's wifi network, start app to read codes.
I bought this and then this app. Total was $25 for an OBD II scanner that resets some codes as well can display cool and useful realtime gauges to Android devices about all kinds of your car's performance readings.
I see there are other cheaper ones now, but I've used these 2 and know they work great together.
No dongle, the Bluetooth is also build in just like the GPS and LTE.
i also got a little program called Torque, and a OBD2 to Bluetooth thingy,
OBD2 is the connection for the error code readouts for Cars, you can read out error codes and a ton of live data from the ECU that way.
My Dad has that thing running all the time. ( courier driver and paranoid about car breaking all the time ;P )
Need a scan tool? get torque pro and a cheap bluetooth dongle.
vgate works well for me, but this combo is indispensable for me, use it on multiple cars and can make your own cluster right on your phone if you want to monitor stuff, you can set up alarms and everything.
You can buy a Bluetooth OBDII reader for about $21 from Amazon here and it works with the Torque Pro app for $5 on your phone.
Do motorcycles use OBDII ports?
It wouldn't use the Pi but it's cheap and simple solution.
The next step is to get the Android app. Try Torque
There's a free version too.
If you like it - you will - there are 3rd party plugins. Some will add sensors specific to your make and model. Others can reskin the gauges, or integrate a dashcam function.
You can even set the app to automatically dump the log files when it's on your home WiFi. You'll have a GPS track of your drive, along with OBD readouts of exactly when your turbo wastegate was open, or you were braking, or you had knock in cylinder 3. This is frigging amazing for figuring out stuff like a loss of power while climbing a hill.
I use a bluetooth ODB2 module and Torque on my phone. Not only does my dash speedometer report as much as 5mph slower than GPS measures, but when Torque reads the speedometer value directly from the CANbus it gets the same value my GPS shows.
The car knows how fast it's going, but the damn dash display fudges the number so I think I'm driving faster than I really am!
There are valid reasons for wanting an app other than the "Android Auto" splash screen open that don't involve interacting with the phone while driving. Personally I like to keep Torque up to monitor car stats on my phone screen since it's mounted on my dash and thus in my line of sight unlike my radio, and then use Android Auto in my receiver for maps and music control.
Crap, I forgot about that. It did, but for my tire pressure checker malfunctioning. I put air in before leaving. I can't remember if that came up before or after this incident though. I'll hook up my OBD over lunch and report back with any codes.
Edit: Well, Torque didn't find any fault codes.
If you have a smartphone just buy a scan tool off amazon: [link] and use the app torque. [link]
If you have an Android get the torque app for five bucks.
$13 Bluetooth ODBII Code Reader from Amazon.
For less than twenty bucks you have more features, and easier updates, than a $200+ code-reader you find in an auto-parts store.
I'm using torque pro and this Bluetooth Latest Version V2.1 Super MINI ELM327 Bluetooth OBD/OBD2 ELM 327 Multi-Language 12Kinds Works ON Android Torque/PC [link]
$12 and it can scan codes, log, virtual dash, etc on both my 08 A4 and my wife's 08 Highlander via my kindle fire hd6.
If you want to go deeper, VCDS or the schwaben/foxwell scanners are the only readily options.
The adapter I got is Bluetooth, and I got the app Torque Pro. It gives massive amounts of real time data. I don't use it much, but its nice to have.
You mean above your brake pedal there? That allows you to connect to on board diagnostics, reset error codes, etc. I have no idea what kind that is, older cars like mine (98 crv) have a port like that known as an OBDII (OBD2) port, and if you get something like this off amazon:
You can interface with your phone, and get this cool app Torque:
and do stuff that will drive the ladies wild, like reset error codes from your phone and see your boost and fuel mixture, live!
I just use Torque to log (among other things) my speed as reported by both my ECU and GPS simultaneously. Then again, my speedometer is dead on, so there isn't much point, but the other metrics are nice to have, as is the code scanner.
You can get one even cheaper if you want to spend ~5 bucks on an app for your phone. I got the adapter off ebay for ~11 bucks shipped.
Adapter - [link]
App - [link]
Works great for reading and clearing codes. Has another of other options as well.
you can already do that with your smartphone, it's called torque with the addon trackrecorder. You just Need the correct ODB II Bluetooth Adapter for your car.
You can have an OBDII Scanner that works over Bluetooth for less than $30 if you have an Android phone (not an Apple guy, no idea about their options). You'll also need an app called "Torque" which is less than $10 if I remember correctly (don't see price as I have already purchased). I can scan and reset codes on my 2003 F-150 quite easily, so I imagine a 2008 Chevy will be just as easy. I can even scan codes on my BMWs, but I had to buy a special OBDII scanner to reset the Bimmers.
Anyway, I think it's worth ~$30-40 to be able to see what's wrong before you take it to the shop.
Bluetooth OBDII adapters
Torque app on play store
I use Torque and a bluetooth dongle, but beware, pretty much all of these solutions will have about a .3-.7s lag between the data and any recorded video. Other than that, though, your only limitations are what your car sensors return. I wanted tire pressures, but my transmitters aren't brought through OBDII in my Mini for some reason.
It is an extra you can pay for. Go to amazon and buy an OBD2 device, download an app on your phone. I use torque, I'm sure there's an iPhone app as well.
Boom, diagnostics and more!
Edit: Just to let people know what you'll see when your check engine light comes on, I had to use the app the other day for this. I plugged in the OBD2 device, opened the app, and told it to give me the error codes. I got two codes back: P1071 and P1074. Each of these codes gave me a link to a website explaining what they were. But what's even better is going to google and searching the codes with your exact vehicle. So I did a search 2002 chevy tahoe p1071 p1074 and as you can see, I get much more specific results about these codes as it relates to my car. The first suggestion was to check the MAF sensor. Sure enough, it was bad. Easy fix, easy part to find on amazon. Lovely thing, this app.
Sooo, I'm an energy efficiency hobbyist with a few project vehicles. I could go on with this subject all day!
How to get the best fuel economy really depends on the vehicle you are driving as no 2 engines really preform the same. However
TLDR: a BSFC chart will tell you alot if you can find one for your particular vehicle's engine.
-General modifications for fuel economy.
If we're going for maximum fuel economy there are numerous safety risks as we're trading off. Do so at your own risk to health and wallet. :)
109 tips for saving fuel from ecomodder.com (I love this site)
65+ general modifications from ecomodder.com
-Things I have done for my car for my area.
Block heater / coolant heater, the single best mod I have done for my car that anyone can install on their vehicles. Plug this in an hour / 90 min before taking off and enjoy a much better starting engine, warm cab, much reduced engine wear / durability, and much much better fuel economy for trips under 30 miles. effective for gas and diesel vehicles. I would recommend a 1000 Watt block heater for most car applications. You can go farther by warming up the oil pan, transmission case, fuel filter / fuel tank (proper wattage but it works), Even in summer starting your engine at 170'F is better than 70'F. . . (Yes I use pre-heaters in summer... get over it, it works if its done correctly)
Thermal modifications. Internal combustion engines are heat engines, generally the higher the operating temperature, the higher the thermal efficiency of the engine = higher fuel economy. BUT you have to balance this so you don't melt your engine :) Mods include higher temperature thermostats or even custom coolant thermostat, front grill blocks / adjustable grill blocks, insulation in certain places of the engine / engine bay, thermal savaging from the exhaust and so on.
Rolling resistance. Use good quality tires and inflate them to max sidewall pressure to help with hysteresis / deformation of the tire to save energy. I personally have 44 psi tires and have run them at 50psi for 10,000s of miles. Wheel alignment is also important, nearly 100% parallel is best but most shops wont do them due to liability reasons. I did my parallel alignment with 4 buckets some fishing line, 2 fine measuring rulers, some cardboard and a friend to great and noticeable success. I know the risks and have done tests, do so at your own risk.
Weight reduction, this helps the tires from deforming more than anything during cruising and will help you take off a bit quicker. Extra points for rotating mass like rotors, tires, and rims.
Aerodynamics. This is huge for better efficiency unfortunately it is difficult to improve upon. Removing a roof rack, adding moon disk hubcaps, full belly pan are a few things you can do to improve your drag coefficient without looking too dorky. Another thing you could do is keep your speed under 60 mph as after that point it is agreed that aerodynamics start taking over a huge percent of energy loss. (basic aero chart)
Tuning, I highly recommend tuning your vehicle if you can, there are many tuning shops out there that can change the way your car performs, diesels especially. Be mindful of local laws regarding this but great gains can be had tuning the car for where and how you drive it.
Not tuning, but "Torque Pro" App with a cheap bluetooth OBD2 dongle is a great place to start in helping understand whats going on under the hood.
Shameless random ask: I'm young, too broke for college, underemployed, and love this stuff to no end. (Car and homes) Does anyone know where I should start looking job wise? Thanks.
Edited a typo*
Here's your device, here's your app, here's your how-to.
EDIT - I wanna add: I didn't make that how-to. That's not me. However, it worked for me.
I'm a fan of Torque Pro also.
Car electronics of that era are dead simple. You're worrying about something far more than you should.
For under $30 (plus the smartphone you probably already have) you can have a decent OBD-II diagnostic tool. My car is OBD-I so I can't use it, but it was indispensable for buying a used car for my wife.
Just remember that diagnostic codes are a symptom, not a cause - so don't go replacing sensors just because that sensor is where the failure is detected.
If you're unsure where to go from a code, there's always /r/Cartalk, /r/MechanicAdvice, or make/model-specific subreddits and forums where you can detail symptoms and codes and get good feedback.
EDIT: I'll add that the adapter I picked (based on Amazon review score, since I was in a hurry) was [link] but generally you want any proper ELM327 compatible adapter for Android use. I used Torque Pro though other software like DashCommand also works.
From what I understand with Apple devices, you will either need to jailbreak or use a WiFi-capable adapter, which adds to the cost.
Everyone has give you some very good advice i'm not going to try and top it because they are right. Maintenance of the vehicle is more important than the miles and knowing a good mechanic or at least one you can trust to point you in the right direction is key.
What I wanted to share is this thought.
When ever I have bought a used car even from a dealership I plugged my obd2 scanner into the obd2 port on the car, if they told me I wasn't allowed I walked away.
KIWI PLX OBD2
These devices are brilliant if the dealer hasn't cleaned out any error logs before showing you the car. As well as if you are buying privately plugging this in can show you if there are any minor or major problems with the car that even the owner may not be aware of, which could give you a bargaining chip or a heads up to walk away completely.
These obd2 transmitters are bluetooth so compatable with pretty much every phone on the market. When i was in the car seen and playing with my car and keeping an eye on how it ran i even ended up buying the app, but there are free versions out there. My choice of app was... is ... Torque - android app with multiple free extras with the paid version.
It does take a little practice and you have to link it to your phone before you check out what ever car you are looking at. So plug it into your dads car and get in some practice.
Please note this device reads only and can not affect or directly change any of your cars settings. Which is why i would walk away if a seller wouldn't let me plug it in. I knew they were hiding something.
I've used this to diagnose everything from a gas cap not being closed (don't ask), thought it would be an easy test to practice on your dads car, to the timing in my srt8 being off - though i still took it to a proper mechanic, but I was apple to make sure i knew what i was dealing with. Even take a couple peoples cars out of limp home mode.
They are great to have and can be a valuable tool to help you out. I hope you find what you are looking for and have many worry free years with it.
A mi me costó $6.49 USD más el costo de la aplicación Torque ($4.95 USD) y hace más cosas que el producto que posteas.
>Sólo puede ser interpretada por mecánicos
En la app te salen los códigos y te sale la opción de ir a una base de datos POR MARCA DE TU CARRO para saber qué tiene el carro.
En los escaners de autozone no te dice por marca, solamente te manda los códigos y tienes que ir a internet para buscar qué significan porque no tienen internet como tu smartphone. Y no, no tienes que comprar ningún software para ver la base de datos para interpretar los códigos. Una simple googleada te arroja la información.
Y hablando específicamente de medir gasolina en tiempo real. Con el mecanismo de flotador es imposible hacerlo ya que la computadora mide el cambio de gasolina a través del tiempo, no en tiempo real.
Así que, para que se pueda medir en tiempo real se necesita que el carro tenga los sensores necesarios y este pedo no es sencillo. Por lo que si se logra medir el influjo preciso de gasolina y ponerlo en un scanner, la innovación no es el scanner, es que el carro tenga el sensor.
Torque - Kind of the standard [link]
Look to take a 30% hit on mileage depending on how fast you drive. (+ load and tire pressure / tire hysteresis losses)
The thing you need to look for is coolant temperature, keep it below 230, you can do this by keeping rpms higher to move more coolant through the cooling system
I recommend something like torque pro to monitor everything at a minimum, EGT pyrometer and transmission temp sensors should be considered when towing. I've seen too many diesel trucks / transmission bite the dust from overdoing it, same can happen with cars.
Added: 2.0L TDI BSFC Chart for load / FE in g/kwh
Remember, USE YOUR GEARS! Dont be afraid of going a bit slower (just stay to the right) Aero losses are huge or to run around 2500-3000 rpm when you need it for hills, Your engine will thank you later!
Hmm, czyżbyś właśnie wymyślił Torque?
Czy taka sobie ankieta oderwana od zamiarów implementacji? :)
The best way I've heard about it to use Torque
There will be done parsing top get the exact data you desire though.
All vehicles sold in Europe after 2001 must have the EODB (basically OBDII) connector and firmware for standard reading of systems. You can pick up any Bluetooth OBDII adapter and use it either like /u/timothiasthegreat said with Torque (I use this myself. It is very nice) or roll your own with a RPi and pyobd
There is a nice git project called OBD-PiTFT which gives quite a nice display
If I was looking to get the most out of the trip economy and reliability there are a few tricks I would do. I do these almost every time before a long highway haul.
In order of what I think is important.
1: If the 5W40 oil has over 6-7000 miles change it.
2: Check all fluid levels
3: check both timing belt and serpentine belt condition. If one of these goes on a trip its a bad day, one much worse than the other.
4: Reset caliper (push in with free rental special brake tool from o-reilly's), Polish brake pad rails with wire wheel / brush, and dry lube all the brake rails. This is often a neglected maintenance chore that will help stop extra brake drag, and has been proven to help fuel economy on 2 of my jettas.
5: Bleed fuel filter of water or replace if it's time 15k miles?
6: If you have android an device get "Torque Pro", and a OBDII bluetooth dongle off ebay / amazon and find out where your thermostat / coolant temperature sensor is running when vehicle is warmed up. Both are CRITICAL in getting better fuel economy and are only $20 combined in parts. Engine should hover in the 195-205 range for normal up to 230'F is safe.
7: Blow out air filter or change if needed.
8: Clean MAF sensor when cleaning the air filter, only with MAF sensor cleaner.
9: Tire pressure to it's max sidewall rating if you're confident in your tires as it will help fuel economy. (someone is going to get into a safety / performance argument they always do, This is a "what I do list" so don't... i'm sick of it)
10: check for uneven wear on tires, alignment is a pretty huge deal for both safety and economy and often goes unchecked.
11: Rotate tires? supposed to do this like every 5k? hmm I'm even behind on that on both mine.
12: inflate the spare tire.
13: Clean windshield and apply 2 coats of rain-X, If you haven't discovered "Rain-X" and applied it correctly, do it, it has saved my life a couple of times in heavy rain situations.
14: Have all your papers in order if you get pulled over. (alot of us are guilty having 10 years of old insurance and registration in the glove box.)
15: Check all of your driving and signaling lights. Do the DRL delete mod if you want to ekk out another 1 mpg or so unless you're running HIDs.
16: Give yourself time if you could afford it, and use "Waze app" to avoid stupid amounts of traffic, cops, road hazards, (saved me from hitting a huge piece of tire once)
17: You can vent the fuel tank to squeeze in an extra 1.5 - 2 gallons of fuel, extra range is nice.
You said you have a 5sp? Depending on your situation you may want to consider the .658 5th gearset. 622 if you're not in major hilly areas and drive over 65. I'd check to see if you're cruise control is capable with the 04, I know my 03 is fine with the change. Anyways the 1.9L TDIs like 1700-1900 rpm, thats the sweet spot, and the stock gearing is way, way too low in 5th. There is a mpg cliff after 2100 ish rpm and an even worse cliff at 2500 rpm.
I'll talk your head off with mods, but focus on the above. you're TDI is more than capable of driving all day, the engine actually prefers it over city driving.
Any questions welcomed, My MK4 is my hobby right now.
I agree, Bluetooth scanner + Torque for Android is perfect
And ya an elm327 works
Hört sich nach ziemlichem Klump an, genauso wie TankTaler. Das kann nichts, was du mit nem 10 Euro OBD2-Adapter und einer App fürs Smartphone nicht auch machen kannst.
Edit: Hier ein paar Apps die ich selbst benutze und empfehle
Now I've been told to get a maintenance manual from Haynes (what was recommended to me) or Chilton. Helps with diagnosing issues and replacing parts, without having to do it the hard way first (of course you learn the easy way after you have done it once).
Also if you haven't bought a OBDII reader and if you have android get the Torque Pro app.
Clean looking model :) congratulations! Love that you have sunroof / moonroof (different countries - different names - same stuff).
Waiting for the interior pictures.
Here are few link where you can find info and parts in case if you will need; searching by VIN number, only the last 7 characters, CE7....
bmwfans.info and realoem.com for parts number
bimmer.work for equipment details, with which the car came from factory
Others; using apps
Torque pro or Torque lite - free version to use together with an OBD-II bluetooth scanner for quick diagnostics, are not expensive and can give you some quick info.
Another good app which I tried, a little bit more expensive, is Carly for BMW they have a free lite version as well Carly for BMW Lite only that you will need to have a smartphone which knows USB-OTG and a cable from them (from carly for bmw) adapter search which can be 30€ carly for bmw website
I tried them both, torque and carly, and I would say that they are good enough, can give you informations, faults (errors code) and you can search by error code number to have an idea what can be the issue; as well can clear faults.
Carly for bmw knows coding as a plus, you can configure your car to do other few things, such as automatically locking the doors when going over a certain speed, follow me home lights on time for a certain time, keeping pressed locking button from the key fob to fold the mirrors (+ windows to go up), keeping pressed unlocking button from the key fob for the mirrors to go down; plus other few stuff (can't remember). For a car from the years 2000s is having few nice features.
Take a look at youtube video 5 Series - E39 - Video Handbook (40mins video) and you can learn about them.
You will have to prepare for the future, in case if they will fail, about kit repairs.
In US you have German auto solutions with DIY instructions, tools, kits; very useful stuff.
Since recently I had issues with this hose 11531705223 Radiator Hose which I had it replaced and just blew (snapped) after 1 year when I was going up the mountain, they are know for failing and can leave you stranded; give it an eye inspection.
What else can I continue recommending you... uhm...
Take care of it and again, congratulations :)
You can buy a wireless/bluetooth adapter on amazon for ~$20, then use the torque app on your phone to connect to it.
I'll assume that you already have Torque set up and logging to a server running Open Torque Viewer :)
The PHP script part is really simple (note that the number "45" in the first echo line is the fuel tank capacity in liters, and where it says "14" that's referring to the average fuel consumption in km/l):
$query="SELECT * FROM raw_logs WHERE (k2f > 0) ORDER BY time DESC LIMIT 1";
$timecon = date("Y-m-d\ H:i:s", substr($time, 0, -3));
echo "Benzina ".number_format($fuel, 1, ',', "")."% ca. ".number_format((45 / (100 / $fuel)), 1, ',', "")." liters (range ca. ".number_format(((45 / (100 / $fuel)) * 14), 1, ',', "")." km)";
echo " Parked at ".$timecon;
Where the file "dbconnect-torque.php" just contains the connection to the database:
@mysql_select_db('OpenTorqueViewerDatabase') or die( "Unable to select database");
This will output something like:
Benzina 13,7% ca. 6,2 liters (range ca. 86,5 km) Parked at 2015-10-15 23:12:03
Tasker then catches this with an HTTP request and pipes it to the Pebble timeline via MyTimeline for Pebble
I drove mine for a year with a blown head gasket and just topped off coolant ever few days to a week. No problems other than the leaking because the way the cooling passages are designed, when the gasket blows it leaks out instead of in and you often don't lose any cylinder compression.
Also, are you positive it didn't overheat? The factory temp gauge isn't trustworthy. It won't even start moving until about 238 degrees, head gaskets will be fried by 225ish. You won't move into the red until well above 240. I'd suggest buying a cheap OBD2 scanner and checking it through that. The Bluetooth ones on amazon (I'll find the link in a minute) work AWESOME if you have an android phone to use it with along with the Torque app. I leave mine plugged in with an old phone mounted to my dash.
Vgate Bluetooth Scan Tool: [link]
Edit 2: By the way, the paid version of Torque is totally worth it because it does a bunch more stuff than the free version including read engine codes. I never even test drive a car without plugging it in and checking for codes.
If you dont have an android phone to use, this gizmo looks neat and relatively cheap, but I don't know how well it works. Worth a try, if it doesn't work amazon will give you a refund. Best customer service I've ever used.
WOPUTUO ASH-4C New Design Multi Car HUD Vehicle-Mounted Head Up Display OBD II System Model Display of Vehicle Speed, Engine Speed, Water Temperature, Driving Mileage, Fuel Consumption, Rest Tips, Engine Failure (White+Yellow) [link]
I have a feeling it's just a crappy camera mated to an OBD display (and a crappy one at that). Probably safer to pick a camera from the list at DashCamTalk.
For an OBD display, just get a bluetooth OBDII dongle and use the Torque app on your phone.
There's dash command which is for iOS
or you could grab this phone and this and torque is $5.00 and have spent $56.85 which is still cheaper than a "real" obdII scanner and you have a backup phone just in case your iPhone takes a swim.
You can get a bluetooth-enabled OBD II scanner on Amazon, like this one, and then use a smartphone app like Torque Pro (Android) or OBD Fusion (iOS) to gain access to all sorts of information that the computer has but isn't displayed.
I use Torque Pro to display a digital speed gauge, digital fuel gauge, distance to empty, and miles per gallon.
Any auto parts store will scan your stored DTCs for free. Step #1 is to determine what DTCs are stored.
If your CEL (check engine light) has been on, then there are DTCs stored. If your CEL was flashing, that means the engine was misfiring, big time. If your CEL is flashing there's a risk of doing engine and/or cat damage ($$$).
If you are determined to troubleshoot and fix it yourself, then a scan tool that does live data will show you what's wrong.
In general, a scan tool will tell you about all your sensors, or TPS (throttle position sensor) O2 sensor, ECT (engine coolant temp), MAP (manifold absolute pressure), etc. And 'live data' means you can see what they are doing when the engine is misfiring.
There are two ways to get a scanner, either a dedicated scanner or with a smarphone app.
1) Dedicated scanner: Innova makes some easy to use scan tools, about $120 for a Innova 3040e.
2) Scanner APP: Most scanner 'apps' are $5 and a bluetooth OBDII gizmo is about $20.
OBD Auto Doctor
Blue Tooth gizmo:
What year is the Van? If it has an OBD2 port, you can purchase this OBD2 Bluetooth Scan Tool and get the app called Torque Pro and follow this video to check emission monitors on your van. You can check your monitor readiness and can go in to get it tested when all monitors are ready. Or you can use the scan tool and app to diagnose what is causing the problem. Might be a lazy O2 sensor.
Here's what I have:
OBDII Bluetooth adapter
Torque Pro (Torque Lite is the free version)
ActiveOBD TQ plug-in (Standalone free version)
Torque Pro is an Android app that reads the adapter. Pro version has nice features but feel free to test out the free one first.
ActiveOBD gives some extra Subaru information. Use the standalone app first to see what it does. The plugin I bought is to view the information within Torque.
Couple of ways:
Disconnect the battery for a little while. It will reset the PCM.
Usually places like AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts will scan and clear codes for free.
Get a OBD II reader for your android phone Ebay Link for about ~$7
and download the Torque($5.00) or Torque Lite (Free) from the Play Store
Whatever you do, if you don't fix the sensor first the code will come back and the check engine light will come back on.
Torque. It's great.
I also know jack shit, but the power of Google helps out a lot :D
Yes, it definitely would, because all the data that your car can provide is available through the OBD2, which is also what people at the shop would be using. I mostly run checks for fault codes to try to catch stuff, and so far, it's been all good, but I'm sure there'll be a time where I'm glad I caught something before it got worse.
I use Torque Pro with an OBDLink LX, which is one of the most reliable and affordable combos there is. Others use Automatic, but I find that expensive as fuck for what Torque can already do, anyway.
They're not garbage. They're bluetooth enabled and you use an app like Torque to access the data. They're $5-$20.
I was just trying to let you know not to go overboard and bolt on a turbo to make 400+ bhp and still think you will be able to turn out even or the power down without a limited skip differential. If you want to gain 5-15+ bhp, intake + exhaust are cheapish options. I should also add that stickers add horsepower. This may be the cheapest option.
You could also look at the Hondata FlashPro. Its mainly for flashing your ECU after upgrades, but can control when VTEC engages, etc. It won't give you any more power (unless you increase the fuel shut off point), but can change the personality of the car.
Something else that has brought me great joy in my 2008 Si sedan is Torque Pro for Android and an OBD II to Bluetooth adapter. It isn't an upgrade in any way, but gives you real time information about your car.
Edit: I feel that I need to add that everything here is a suggestion. In the end, it is your car. If you want to convet it to AWD, put an LS9 in the trunk, and put wings on it, go for it.
I bought this and paired it with Torque Pro. Torque doesn't appear to be available for IOS, but Engine Link is suggested as a similar replacement on several forums. Worth every penny spent.
If you ask your Hyundai dealer at the next yearly service they will also measure the battery degradation for free
Won't even launch. Just crashes.
I'm actually using an Android tablet. The app is called Torque Pro.
Looks cool! FYI the smartphone app Torque does something very similar
Thought I'd share my setup. I am running Torque Pro on a cheap Android tablet.
It's configured to have the special list of PIDs for a 2nd Generation Toyota Prius.
I know it seems like overkill to have all these sensors on the screen. I'm learning what I need and don't need and will be removing the ones that either don't work, or are useless.
PID File: [link]
For the 3rd Gen Prius, go here [link]
OBD Scanner: [link]
Any cheap OBD Scanner will do. They're all the same. Make sure the one you buy has a 4 or 5 star rating.
ONN 8" Android Tablet 16GB ($64) - [link]
Edit: formatting, added links
Torque and a cheap bluetooth OBDII adapter
Just in case this comes up again, it might be worth getting an inexpensive OBD2 adapter. This would let you easily pull the codes yourself, and reset them (if necessary) without having to disconnect the battery.
I use the Carista adapter for this, along with the Torque Pro app. But there are several options available.
There's also a Dr Prius app which can be useful, as it ties into some Prius-specific data/functionality. But it's not a general purpose diagnostic app, and doesn't really replace the app mentioned above.
Get an OASIS report (w/ VIN) from the local Ford dealer to let you know what she has been through (at least while under warranty)
> there was an exhaust smell when stopped at lights
I have no exhaust or muffler on my 6.0 and don't smell any exhaust when stopped, so that is curious.
I would recommend buying an OBDII scanner from Amazon ($20) if you don't have one (regardless if you follow through with this truck or not it is great to have for all of your other vehicles). They make them with Bluetooth so you can download an app (Torque Pro) for your phone and check/clear codes as well as live data monitoring. It's what a lot of us Ford guys do until we get a tuner that monitors data.
Here is a video that shows what I'm talking about.
That way you can go on another test drive while monitoring the PIDs. Let the truck warm up (180+ F for both oil and coolant) and then hop on the freeway and set the cruise control at 55 mph. Keep it there (on flat ground) for about 15 minutes and monitor the difference between those two temperatures. If they get above 15 degrees apart the truck has a failed oil cooler.
Check the degas bottle and oil for any obvious signs of head gasket issues. Make sure the coolant in that degas bottle is clean (free from particulate) and not milky - likewise with the oil.
Injectors are the other finicky devil with these trucks. When you click the truck onto the on position, keep the door open and listen to the injectors clatter as the spool valves open and close. This is most telling on a bone-cold engine that hasn't been started that day. Those things should clatter fast and evenly. If they start slowly clattering and ramp up their speed as they clatter that could indicate sludge/stiction gauming up the spool valves which leads to contribution issues. Another app called Car Gauge Pro allows you to do a "buzz test" to check for bad injectors by individually buzzing each injector to let you listen. Here is an awesome video that shows how to do that.
I wish I would have known those tips before I bought my baby. Good on you for being far less impulsive than me. With 20 minutes of SUPER easy tests, you can give yourself a really good idea of what kind of shape the truck is in.
Head gasket, oil cooler, and injectors are the big three to keep on your radar with 6.0s. If those are all working properly and the 282k miles doesn't scare you I'd go for it - that's just my 2 cents though.
You better post a picture of that baby if you end up pulling the trigger.
You could do this with a bluetooth ODB adapter: [link]
Early last summer I bought a $1650 car with over 200k miles and have done a lot of work on it because of that...I knew what I was buying. This video taught me that O2 sensors aren't always the easy fix. I found a major vacuum leak that solved my problem. And, with this OBDII reader and the TorquePro App, free version available too, I found out that my O2 sensors are totally fine.
Hers are some scan tool comparisons that I found, which seem to give a decent amount of information about each. Keep in mind that the reviews may be funded by the companies selling the tools:
One tech I know says he likes this phone app, which reads codes and gives some live data:
The best app I've found is Torque. Get the full version. Also, I use a cheap bluetooth OBD2 scanner I got from amazon.
Looks like 2 volts. Quality is spotty. I'd probably wait. Get Torque and pair it with an Android phone or tablet.
Thanks! It's an android tablet connected to a cheap Bluetooth odb2 reader running Torque.
I assume this data was generated from Torque?
I bought this app years ago, use it in my Challenger: Torque, See what your car is doing in realtime, get OBD fault codes, car performance, sensor data and more!
Torque is a vehicle / car performance / diagnostics tool and scanner that uses an OBD II Bluetooth adapter to connect to your OBD2 engine management / ECU
Layout your own dashboard with the widgets / gauges you want!
It can use the GPS to provide tracker logs with OBD engine logging so you can see what you were doing at any point in time
It can also show and reset a DTC / CEL / fault code like a scantool. Helps you fix your car and helps keep repair costs down!
Torque also features:
Works on any vehicle that uses the OBD 2 standard (most vehicles built after 2000, but can work for vehicles as far back as 1996) if in doubt check with your manufacturer first or look for 'OBD2' on written on a big white label in your engine bay
Works on vehicles made by Ford, VW, GM/Vauxhall/Opel, Chrysler, Mercedes, Volkswagen, Audi, Jaguar, Citroen, Peugoet, Skoda, Kia, Mazda, Lexus, Subaru, Renault, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Honda, Hyundai, BMW, Toyota, Seat, Dodge, Jeep, Pontiac and many more vehicle makes, European, US, Far East, etc. Some vehicle ECUs may support more/less features than others
The app needs a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter to work. The adapter is small and plugs into the diagnostics socket on the car which gives your phone access. You can find a list of adapters on: [link] (Garmin EcoRoute HD adapters not supported)
If you buy one of the cheap china OBD2 ELM327 bluetooth adapters from ebay / amazon, then make sure you have a good returns policy with the seller
Some of the best reliable OBD2 / OBD adapters are the Scantool.net adapter, the OBDKey, and PLX Devices, OBDLink, Bluetooth, ELM327 and other adapters are supported - search on google for them
More features added every release - there are forums at [link] - if you want something added then let me know and I'll try to add it if it is possible! Vehicle ECUs vary in the amount of sensors supported
PLEASE NOTE Any reports of hanging or reboots after quitting the app is due to a bug in HTC devices and Galaxy Tab,this can be triggered by using the Pandora/Vlingo/Other BT apps. Disabling Pandoras new bluetooth settings fixes the problem, but HTC/Samsung need to release a fix.Please contact their support and request a fix,Thanks!
Yeah, I know it's a small chance. But sometimes you'll see a description of a problem and go "THAT'S EXACTLY IT!".
Oh? Well -that- I can help out with, for under $30! Setup is mainly bluetooth pairing and turning on the app, worked instantly for me. App decodes codes or looks them up for you, too!
Here's an adapter:
And here's the app to use it ($5):
Itunes (I haven't used this, but have heard the name recommended before):
Alternative iTunes(again, not an apple user, but heard good things):
Torque is the only one I've tried.
And for a little more, one of the best OBD diagnostic tools available.
Not a shill, just a enthusiastic user...
Get a bluetooth OBDII adapter and download Torque on your phone. Boom. 20 bucks and your done.
Well, Torque didn't find any fault codes.
That's what I also need to know. Maybe it's this one ?
Cha, esas tan más dificil de encontrar.
Una solución fácil sería que usaras un celular Android budget con una cámara decente, compras un adaptador OBD2 (yo tengo este: OBDLink LX), y te compras alguna aplicación de dashcam soporte OBD2. Yo uso Torque para las métricas, y este tiene Track Recorder como plugin, que graba con la cámara, y le tira un overlay de Torque con cuestiones como velocidad y otras mediciones. También podrías comprar un app independiente, como CaroO Pro, que hace todo eso en 1, pero yo soy super fan de Torque.
Sorry for writing you another long book...
I asked my wife if she thought it was loud and she shrugged her shoulders at me... lol. It's slightly louder than my Corolla, but I don't think it's that bad at all. Unfortunately it can be quite subjective. Small cars will always be louder and the manufacturers tend to skimp on sound insulation for the smaller lower priced cars. Also tires can make quite a difference in road noise, but an entire Reddit post/argument can be devoted to that....
As far as gas mileage, we both drive like asses... which means we inherently get worse gas milage than normal people... I did hook up one of these and paired it with an Android App on my phone. It reported that that we were getting 30-34mpg when doing about 80mph on the Thruway. Not sure about averages, but it gets good gas milage. My wife has the 2010 and it's a bit stripped down, not sure if the newer 2014 models display all the fancy info like mpg, range, avg speed and whatnot in the dash...
I've also been thinking about this for a while. If you haven't been exposed to Toyota's you'll find that they are a little simpler than American cars. If you just want to get from point A to point B without a hassle you won't care, but the Ford Fiesta might feel "nicer" inside and have a few more bells and whistles... to each their own. If you decide to look at a Yaris, you might want to test drive one at Lia and then say you'll come back and/or that you are continuing to look at other brands/models as you try to decide what you want. That way you won't be driving far to find out that you perhaps might hate the Yaris. Then if you do decide to check out Prestige... it won't be your first rodeo either.
Also, there is one weird thing about Prestige that I wanted to share with you... the two times I've test driven a car with them the dude always rode with me on the test drive and we always took the same short route around the dealership. I've test drive quite a few cars and they are the only dealer that I've known that didn't toss me the keys and said "have fun see ya when you get back". Then again I'm a talker if you haven't noticed and we are usually shooting the shit the whole time anyway... I also never cared to resist and ask to take the car out alone or to take a different route, they might just say "Sure!" if you ask. The last purchase was my 4th Toyota so I'm familiar with them and really am just looking to abuse the car as much as possible to expose any mechanical BS with brakes, suspension, engine, and transmission. I straight up warned them both times as we left that I was going to:
I will say that the next time I do a test drive with them, I'm going to ask to take it out to RT 299 over to the Thruway exit so I can get it up to 65-70. I had an isolated issue with one of my wheels with my last purchase from them. I didn't notice until I got on the highway and even then it took me a few days of driving to work to notice the issue and then a couple more to decide if I was just crazy or if there was actually something wrong with the wheel. Of course they fixed it for free.
One other thing... Make sure the car you're looking at has All Season Tires. With my last, I made the mistake of buying a car with good tires... but I didn't pay attention to type of tire on the car. It had practically brand new summer sport tires and only realized it when it drove like shit in the winter. So now I have two sets of tires... but it's ok, I swap them out which extends the life of both sets. The previous owner could have been from another part of the country (cars are bought at auction and shipped around) or perhaps they swapped snow and summer tires and just sold it in the summer...
Sorry for the book again...
Probably this thing.
Wire that up to your AUX in port, now you have an Android entertainment system that also ties into the data port on your car to read sensors and reset trouble lights.
Your last comment included a number of misleading or blatantly wrong claims about how OBD 2 data works:
>They don't all have the same extra data or expose them via OBD2. End of discussion.
Not every car has precisely identical data, but that doesn't mean you can't use the huge chunk of data that is identical in every car. And you can still use data that is vehicle-specific if you know how to interpret that vehicle's OBD 2 data (which Android Auto would).
>That would be stupid because a OBD code can have multiple issues that can trigger a specific code.
A car shows a simple "Check Engine" light. The error code specifically can specifically tell you "Air intake pressure is low." It won't tell you why the intake pressure is low, but it still gives you a lot more information than the car's dashboard display does.
>>(Quite a few of those codes are related to fluids, by the way.)
>They are transmission fluid related.
And a hell of a lot more.
>Cars already put up a light or display indicating a overheating transmission
Some do. Not all. And they sure as hell don't have lights for all of the various fluid issues.
>To put to another way if a car firm goes to the trouble of incorporating a sensor they also put the display capabilities of it on the car's information system.
No. No no no. Holy shit no. You have been told multiple times that the car has way more data than it shows the driver. You know that what you said is completely wrong. If you honestly believe that any data you can get from an OBD 2 connection is already available on the dashboard, then you don't know anything about OBD 2 and you should excuse yourself from any discussions on it.
>You have not given me any scenario where android auto will give you more useful information than what cars already display.
I have given you multiple scenarios where android auto will give you more useful information than what cars already display. You just choose to ignore them.
You are really reaching to justify... I don't know even know what you're trying to justify. That it's impossible to have OBD 2 apps? If we were having this conversation in person, I feel like you would be plugging your ears, jumping up and down, and screaming that this can't possibly exist. "My BMW shows me fluid levels, so nobody else could possibly want anything from OBD 2 data!"
Just an extra tip since you got good advice. I don't regret buying this [link] (Or any other well reviewed one, all the same if they work) and this [link] one bit. Nice to know it's in the glove box.
Edit: if this is any good, an on off switch would be handy [link]
Jesus, I use a cheap ebay cord with a micro usb to USB connector and Torque app on my phone. I also have a Bluetooth one but it's spotty. Total cost, like $30.
For older vehicles I have a briefcase scan deal with a printer and bunch of connectors but honestly it's easier counting the flashes on the dash.
I haven't used this app, but you can use Torque with the OBD to Bluetooth and create widgets to do likely all the things this app can do.
Needs an odb2 adapter
Ca dépend de quelles modifications ils parlent en fait.
Si ce n'est que le fait de consulter/effacer des codes d'erreurs (qui peuvent par exemple allumer un voyant sur le tableau de bord même une fois le problème résolu), cela se fait avec du matos qui ne coûte quasiment rien comparé à la visite chez un concessionnaire : [link] + [link]
Since I haven't seen anybody address your data logging question, I highly suggest the Torque app available on android paired with a $25 OBDII reader from amazon. Plus then you don't have to pay $50-$250 on a scanner tool. I've got mine setup to start logging as soon as it connects to my car every time i start it up.
Check Engine Light on? A lot of times, limp mode is tied to the computer throwing a code.
Car parts stores often will let you use a scan tool to clear your CEL. Or, if you have a smart phone, Amazon sells bluetooth OBDII adapters that more or less can turn your smart phone in to a scan tool - i use one with my android phone and an app called Torque when I need to read/reset
Right, I'm saying that I can do all of this already with the cheap hardware on the market (example).
You do get what you pay for, but it does work. The Android app Torque is what made these interfaces even more popular.
There are better interfaces on the market, which can be used with devices such as the Arduino (example)
Torque Pro - $5 from google play
cheap OBDII/Bluetooth dongle $11 from amazon
$12.59, actually. $17.59, if you count the five bucks for Torque Pro.
>it would be nice if car manufactures would start using those MFD's on their info screens to actually TELL YOU what error caused that light, rather than just illuminating some cryptic "check engine" light forcing people to figure it out for themselves.
there IS an option for that. it only costs 15 dollars.
Buy one of these and keep it plugged into your cars OBD2 port
install this on your android phone(apple has their own software)
> so its not logical the "Check Engine" light would illuminate for that issue
are you an ASE certified technician or have ANY knowledge whatsoever on diagnostic automotive technology?
i can answer that for you. absolutely not. the EVAP system will throw a check engine light because it is PART of the diagnostic system.
>Fuel light makes more sense.
just stop... you are embarrassing yourself. only thing the fuel light does is tell you when your fuel is low.
Probably future proofing for if they want to provide functionality like Torque's displays and graphs.
There will be *some parsing *to get the exact data you desire though.
The What's New section of the Torque Pro OBD2 app has this to say:
> There is an andorid 6.0.1 problem with Kiwi3 - still looking into this as it looks like a bug in Androids bluetooth
The Kiwi3 is a Bluetooth 4.1 device using BLE. Are any of your devices using BLE on 4.1?
When all those lights come the ECU has limited your engine power because a fault in the system. Many refer to this as "limp mode" This action will result in a code that can be read from the OBDII by the dealer, auto parts store or you can do it yourself with a fairly cheap OBDII reader and smartphone app. No matter what you do you will need to get the code before you do anything else.
Your comment is strangely wrong.
I've diagnosed modern cars with this, and this
Last car I hooked up was a 2018 Forester, for a friend buying a used car and wanted to make sure it had no codes before final sale.