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/r/GrandCherokee's
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From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/GrandCherokee:
![AUTOCLOVER Dark Smoke Side Window Vent Visor 6 Piece Set for Jeep Grand Cherokee 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 / Safe RAIN Out-Channer Guard Deflector [Renewal]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41V5JuUJGMS._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/GrandCherokee:
Aliexpress
AllTrails
Google Photos
ImgBB
iOS
Komoot
Amazon
Google Drive
DealExtreme
Amazon Drive
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/GrandCherokee:
The most popular reviews in /r/GrandCherokee:
> Really not a fan of the third row. Don’t get me wrong, I get why FCA did it, it’s just head scratching to me why people want it. IMO if you have a bunch of kids you should get over yourself and get a Minivan, I rode in one for 15 years as a kid and I can say the third row in my parents old 96 Toyota Sienna still looks more comfortable then getting into a “third row” of a modern SUV. I see the Grand Cherokee as a fun utility vehicle, but I don’t see anything “fun” with having to transport 7 people in this thing.
Every third row I've tried to sit in has been an abomination. It's like someone velcroed a stadium seat right to the load space in the rear. Absolutely awful. And with the sloping roofs these days, your head is either mashed against the rear glass or the roof.
Like you said, just buy a minivan or something like a Suburban if you really have a need to carry that many people.
Does the Uconnect Access app even work? Android version has a rating of 2.7 out of 5. Can't be worth it in this sorry state.
Link: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.fcagroup.us.uconnect
What spark plugs did you use? Single tip Platinum plugs have been known to cause misfire issues in the newer 4.0s with a coil rail.
Cylinder 2 misfire is sometimes caused my heat soak, the solution would be to put a heat wrap around the injector
I use this, and it's been great. You wouldn't think so from looking at it, but it holds my phone perfectly well even when I'm offroading. Ignore the bad reviews who say it won't stick to the dash, those idiots didn't use the adhesive primer that comes with it, and/or didn't clean the dash first.
I mounted it just to left of the glove box (the only place I could find, really. Our WK2's don't have much dashboard real estate)
Just an FYI: you can remove everything in that link after the ? since that stuff is just tracking info. ie:
https://www.amazon.com/Ruien-0046-Universal-Aluminum-Reservoir/dp/B06XK9PTP7/ref=asc_df_B06XK9PTP7/
Felpro makes a really great replacement gasket that’s reusable and never leaks. The 4.0 has a ccv rather than a pcv system and I always replace both vents and grommets (and the little tube connecting the rear vent) along with the gasket when I get another Jeep (I have 6 right now). Rear crankcase orifice vent is dorman# 47057: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JZI1U2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o1AQBb8PJSXPA
Grommets are both dorman# 42344: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XS8XYHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K2AQBbMPJ1Z33
The front vent is available in different heights depending on year/model but I think yours is a doorman 47079. In a pinch you can always buy 2 of the orifice ones and drill out the restrictor.
Got it done under warranty before they put out the recall couple years back. Mine was just making an awful noise when starting like it was starting then starting again and therefore making that horrible grinding noise.
https://photos.google.com/search/jeep/photo/AF1QipOnNkBv5jP8A71Hsc0YunaOwCB61xTArAISUNBA
​
Sometimes I worry and think I hear the noise again but it's just me I think.
I also had to replace my governor sensor for a similar issue. It's a black L shaped piece in the valve body of the trans. Also very easy to change.
Here's a link to buy one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QCCJ2U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rDqDub0T2FR0D
And here's a video on how to change it.http://youtu.be/kvl-_-vY6rk
I got a set of low mileage 2014 Rubicon takeoffs (BFG Mud Terrain) with rims off Craigslist for $800. The rims REALLY change the look of the truck. Add the Rough Country 2'' budget lift and 1.5'' Spidertrax wheel spacers and you're good to go.
Did it all myself in about a day, don't forget to get an alignment afterwards.
Thanks! Here's the one I got
Astra-Depot 7PCS Black Honeycomb Front Mesh Grilles Inserts Car Grill Compatible with Jeep Grand Cherokee 2017 2018 2019 2020 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MY1H394/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_6ZP9T18NY4P9Z0KWXSMZ
I bought this
I wouldnt put them on the front, but I bet they’d make a size for it... airlift has a this chart that you can pick the right kit for the coil size.
Bought them from Amazon, I’ll provide you the link below.
Alla Lighting H8 H11 LED Fog Light Bulbs or DRL 6000K Xenon White, H16 H11LL H8LL H1155 2800 Lumens Xtreme Super Bright 5730 33-SMD 12V Replacement for Cars, Trucks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H6X6PM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BS1H3VYP910Y92Y2FAZ8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So I bought the light from amazon it was meant for Wranglers and I basically just stick it to the bottom of the trunk and fit perfectly. It comes with splicers to wire it down with the dome light, but I had to hard wire it and strip the tailgate dome light and connect the light bar to it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083XDZ7MJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$73 on Amazon
New Front Side Bumper Grille Frame For 2014-2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Black, For Overland, Limited, Laredo Models, Code Mfn CH1037108 68143070AD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQKHBPH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P2JQYKW66MQYPHVSPREG
Aolead H11 H8 H9 LED Headlight Bulb 50W 6500K Cool White Fanless Conversion Kit All in One https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K2KLQGV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_60KQ68WCSJ38RJZBST7K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Exact same issue. I bought these and some new tail light sockets and it's been fixed for 2 years:
Dave is correct, they're made by Spyder, they're listed on Amazon under the Acanii brand, but they don't seem to have the black ones available right now. Here's a link to the chrome version.
https://www.amazon.com/ACANII-1999-2004-Projector-Headlights-Headlamps/dp/B07FX7BP8D
I haven't had them for more than a couple months, but so far I'm impressed, they look great and the projector lenses throw a nice even beam at night.
I was told that you can program a key yourself with an ELM327 OBDII adapter and the OBD JScan app. The license for the app is $20 and the device I used is $30 on amazon.
I haven't programed a key to work with it, but I did successfully enable by trailer adapter plug for lights with the app and it worked beautifully.
Ruien universal catch can. $30 dollars on Amazon. Let’s hope it works well. I picked up some 1/2 inch heater hose for the lines.
I bought a device that plugs into my phone. You downlioad the app and pay them like $18 per VIN. You now have control of your vehicles computer. Did it because I recently installed a tow hitch on my 2016 GC and needed to enable the light harness.
Edit: the link
Vgate iCar Pro Wi-Fi OBD2 Scanner... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGB4QL7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thank you! I will look into this. That's what I am looking for.
I can tell my speedometer is off because my GPS on my phone tells me the speed I am travelling through Google Maps. It used to be spot on. Now it's off by 3-7 MPH depending on my speed.
Do you by chance have a link of where you bought it?
EDIT: Nevermind! Found it on Amazon!
https://www.amazon.com/Hypertech-52501-Energy-Power-Programmer/dp/B006RQ44BM
It's basically like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK4J1CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_FJr8Fb87RN732
I just removed the bolts from the top and tightened the hose clamps and it took the form of the roof. Then sunk self tappered screws in to lock it in place. I also ended up with 8 hose clamps on each side, and they rate at 1100lbs of tensile strength each.
Just bought a new one. Its pretty good
Industrial Endoscope, SKYBASIC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZH9P8QH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
$49 with coupon discount.
My original one was UsB and was very touchy and the USB port broke after a short time. Plus carting around a laptop to use it was sucky.
Thanks! The crossbars are BRIGHTLINES Crossbars Roof Racks Luggage Racks Replacement for 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RDL78G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_KUP3Fb2026T0S, and the ski racks are Thule SnowPack Ski/Snowboard Rack, 6 Pair-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4DCJ8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_bi03FbBK4711B?psc=1.
If you go with a cell phone mount, I recommend looking into magnetic mounts but only if it's for a cell phone. I have used them in several of my vehicles and all you have to do is stick an adhesive metal plate to the back of your phone or phone case as with mine. Then you attach a strong magnet to your vehicle wherever you want and the magnet holds the phone in place. They work very well and aren't as bulky as ProClips.
These are exactly the ones I have bought. https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-WizGear-Universal-Swift-snap-Technology/dp/B0773F8S74/ And if you like I can take some pictures of how it works with my phone in my WK. Just let me know if you are interested.
Cool! It looks great. I picked mine up last year for a little over a grand and have been working on bringing it up to mechanical speed - mostly deferred maintenance stuff - but now I kind of love it and want to start upgrading.
For the headlights, I've had great luck with the 3M kit on amazon. There are a couple variants, all the same basic thing - sand down the worn plastic, put on a protective coating, looks good as new. Don't bother with stuff like PlastX unless you feel like reapplying every few weeks.
Yeah they are pretty stiff but they handle oversized tires really nicely. I was hunting down the cause of some gnarly deathwobble after lifting my WJ and I believe the Bilsteins had something to do with fixing it. All it took was adjustable LCAs, 4 tierod ends, new front upper bushings, new coil insulators, bigger track bar bolts, stiffer trackbar bushings, bilstein shocks and 2 alignments. Piece of cake.....
Also, I got mine off of Amazon pretty cheap.
I found a similar one on Amazon
I haven’t used this myself but check out the dimensions to see if it fits
VIOFO and Blackvue provide good dashcams. Check out their websites and see what would work for you.
This is what I use, https://www.amazon.com/Viofo-Dashboard-Camera-Vision-G-Sensor/dp/B07CT6JPYW It is very noticeable in the front, especially when parked and the sun hits just right, but you could get a tint strip to provide more privacy. I think the Blackvue cameras could be hidden more easily based on their design. I'm not sure if there's anything out there that could be integrated with the already installed backup camera.
Amazon!
Jeep Color Aftermarket Decal American Flag Decal 6 x 2.5 Inches Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D3P7BL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_OtHTWDS3t9oY9
I ordered it in July and now it says currently unavailable but maybe another seller has one like it.
True, short of any other solution this is what I used:
Rightcar Solutions Flawless Silicone License Plate Frame - Rust-Proof. Rattle-Proof. Weather-Proof. - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV5PLFM
I got the $100 ones from amazon. They are junk, and I have had to replace bits flying off of them (rubber strip, lock mechanism). But I looked at the factory mopar ones and I'm pretty sure they are exactly the same. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RDL78G/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just got a cheapo amazon special that holds ~350ml. I've noticed the fill rate to be about ~100ml per 300-400 miles once the flow is established. I'd go with a larger volume if I were to buy one again so I wouldn't need to empty it as frequently.
You can try getting a socket (or two) that's just a little too small from the pawn shop and hammering it on to the lug nut and then using a breaker bar to remove them.
Or get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YYP1XD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've used that one on past vehicles. My dad uses it on his current vehicle. They are good quality. Mine, after a while and a lot of use, started to wear/split at the folds. I now prefer the custom roll up kind because I feel it is easier to use, put awat, etc.
Can't go wrong with either.
https://www.amazon.com/Covercraft-Custom-Patterned-Windshield-Sunshade-Roll-Type/dp/B001GF0KPI
I had to purchase one of these to retrain the system each time I rotate the tires.
So I've got a 14 grand cherokee doing the same as everyone else on the page, it's melting..I did the Amazon thing. Amazon actually does sell the covers that go over the knobs they have 2 types the longs and shorts !! They 15.99 for all three !! Here's the link 👇👇
I got these for my 2015 and like them a lot. They nay not fit yours but there's definitely some similar on amazon that do.
This is about as "low profile" as you are going to get without going with a hidden winch option.
Wanted to post here as I hadn’t seen anyone post the pics after purchasing the seatback cargo liners. Bought them to match the mopar cargo liner in the trunk.
A couple notes:
They are more plastic compared to the mopar liner.
Install was easy as it was Velcro and seems like a pretty strong hold
There are pre cut holes for the square pieces with the metal bar on the seat backs.
Ignore the pushcart wheel it’s broken.
I bought new fittings and a can tap set with adapters so I can reuse my r134 gauges. You should technically use a separate gauge set to avoid cross contamination. R1234yf is already fluorescent bright green so I may not need dye to find the leak. It'll end up being a dried up orings from not running it in the winter, or a hole in the evap core.
Can tap set. The ones you can buy at the store will not work with R134a gauges. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B27G691R
Coupler set. Do not buy adapters because you won't be able to use the valves anymore. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PZS5NYB
I've used it on my truck. The install is really easy if you have the brake controller pigtail from Jeep. My jeep came with this. It just plugs in, and then you connect the wires from it to the brake controller. There are some controllers designed for specific cars, and you don't need the pigtail. You just plug them in. The rest is just mounting it an easily accessible spot while driving. This one has the harness with it - https://www.amazon.com/TEKONSHA-CONTROL-2011-2012-CHEROKEE-CONTROLLER/dp/B007O5GXQ4/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3MWM869P21HY1&keywords=grand+cherokee+brake+controller&qid=1662740018&sprefix=grand+cherokee+brake+controlle%2Caps%2C116&sr=8-8
I used to sleep during lunch break so I always keep a folding foam camping pad and a small pillow at the back. During colder days I keep a thermal blanket so I can sleep comfortably at the cargo area. If I'm just reclining the front seat I use a neck pillow like this: https://www.amazon.com/MLVOC-Comfortable-Breathable-Washable-Contoured/dp/B082K8ZNQ1
We did the Medano Pass primitive road, which had a good bit of loose sand - we aired the tires down to 25 PSI and we fishtailed a few times. There's a big board in the visitor's center there at GSDNP that has the latest conditions on it - so I'd check that before going out. We couldn't make it to the top because the stream crossings were at 4 ft; a more adventurous type may have made it! As for tips, don't stop once you're in loose sand.
The roof rack is from Amazon, Brightline Roof Rack. Good luck!
Two ways to go: - the only cross-bars I know that are compatible with these moldings are these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C44RNXN - replace the moldings with the actual rails from other trims and you will have other options for cross-bars like Thule, etc.
Properly, you remove the carrier and check the preload with an in-lb dial torque wrench like this on crush sleeve axles like the 35 and 44a. But I've done exactly as you have and had no problems.
Doing the bearings you would want a new sleeve and then do the preload, of course. It's not a terribly hard job, just nice to do on a lift rather than the garage floor because crushing that sleeve takes a lot of force, it's a snipe job that's hard to do with minimal room.
I do like your approach, I just wanted to keep things simple.
Of course I looked at something from AudioControl, they have a ridiculous 800 watt 4 channel DSP amp that I would love, but it's also very expensive.
I was looking at the Fosgate 400x4 bike amp: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR400X4D-Compact-Amplifier/dp/B07894Y4KP
Hi level inputs, good power and 4 channel, very compact and good price. That would be ideal but like I said, not sure about the UConnect channels.
I heard from others that all 4 channels put out a full signal but I wanted to make sure, although you're saying that the signal sucks, ouch.
Really, I don't need so much bass, but do like loud and punchy, I feel like 100 watts into a 6x9 component of high quality is exactly what I need, with the 6.5" rear just being a bonus (I could always run that with lopass crossover for mids only, not fullrange, on a midbass 6.5" but feel like I would be losing out).
Adding a sub is not a priority, I actually don't want one.
So you're saying the Kicker Key fits behind the UConnect? Hmm, that sounds good. The Fosgate would fit there too then, or behind the glovebox. I will compare the Key to the Fosgate I mentioned.
I'm not worried about my components handling any power as I will make sure to buy high quality stuff, at least 10% higher handling RMS than the amp (the Kappas are 100W I think but will draw at 3ohm).
I'm also looking at another Fosgate, one that outputs same power no matter the ohm, I think it's called their Power series, but that is in the AudioControl price range, and no DSP.
KSP, Spidertrax, or Titan Wheel offer 1" and 1.5" spacers for around $120 for a set of 4.
You’ll need an OBD reader (I bought this one, a laptop and the software.
AlfaOBD is free to use but it’s not the easiest to use tbh. There is a way to save the OG settings and I HIGHLY recommend you save ur OG functions before you do anything. I learnt that the hard way haha.
The software enables you to do a lot of diagnostics to the vehicle, the OBD reader isn’t cheap but it’s very easy to use.
I use this one, and it’s invisible as far as edge to edge. You will notice a little bit of off coloring with polarized glasses or certain angles of direct sun, but nothing that changed my mind about using it
2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Grand Cherokee Uconnect Touch Screen Car Display Navigation Screen Protector, RUIYA HD Clear TEMPERED GLASS Car In-Dash Screen Protective Film (8.4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077P1RPSR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R3W0K8NCS28J7WQW99AV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I can't comment on the towing capacity so I'll leave that to someone else.
There are a few options for hitches. You can go the OEM route and get an OEM hitch which involves a more lengthy install process. Or you can go aftermarket. There is probably some difference in towing capacity between the two options and the OEM receiver will sit higher than an aftermarket.
This is the aftermarket I put on my 2018 when I had it. Simple install. 4 bolts. I used it for bike racks and cargo carriers.
https://www.amazon.com/DRAW-TITE-75699-Draw-Tite-Max-Frame/dp/B004R3AR72
I had the same issue a couple of years ago on my 02 WJ when I had to replace the master cylinder. I found a variant of this on Amazon, which seemed to do a good job of cycling the ABS solenoids: FOXWELL NT630 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSMJJK9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_XT87WQ68HDC4QPDF3Q6J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. I paid around $100, but now it's up to $150. There's a good review about someone with a WJ that bought it.
Here is the Amazon link to them. Let me know if I can answer any questions. These fit the stock flush side rails perfectly on my 2014 summit.
BRIGHTLINES Crossbars Roof Racks Luggage Racks Replacement for 2011-2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee with Grooved Metal Roof Side Rails https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RDL78G/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_08HYCJ4GYWW7NZXW37WY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I highly recommend these or similar for the lift gate. The housings weren’t great so I pulled the led board and put them in the oem housing, super simple and 3x the light output
Tonsya For Dodge Durango Jeep Grand Cherokee Commander Chrysler Pt Cruiser Led Rear Interior Cargo Lamp Area Liftgate Lights 5023881AG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QPNS7TD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_62C5CNJ5Q764RJR77AXC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have these on my 2015, they look and feel great in my opinion. I don’t think my seats are the exact same shape as an 07, but might be worth a shot
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B3C1Y44?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They make adhesive to cover it up. I haven't done it yet on my 2022 GC but am continuing to do research and debating on pulling the trigger.
​
Here's the link for the rain guards..I'll update with the lugs shortly
AUTOCLOVER Dark Smoke Side Window Vent Visor 6 Piece Set for Jeep Grand Cherokee 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 / Safe RAIN Out-Channer Guard Deflector [Renewal] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZL5ZG81/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RA3FAQQ34F0NAVZRRFPM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
AUTOCLOVER Dark Smoke Side Window Vent Visor 6 Piece Set for Jeep Grand Cherokee 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 / Safe RAIN Out-Channer Guard Deflector [Renewal] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZL5ZG81/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RA3FAQQ34F0NAVZRRFPM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m not sure about the the dust shield fitment. They’re like $3 each, so I’d say just get new ones. [These](www.amazon.com/dp/B011SOXLBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M1ESXNC30XMMB1KX0H42?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) are the upper shock mounts. Those photos you sent back are the lower shock mounts so they’re the same and don’t require any modifications or additional parts.
Also referred to as a 'High Volume' pump. Circulates your oil 20% more so significantly improves efficiency. Melling M167HVS Oil Pump Jeep 87-95 (Ignore the years - can use Amazon Garage to confirm it fits if you're worried though) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000C4KJ5K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_1HSE0SR0TXP62G8200V5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075GTJ6MG
The caps that came with my jeep was green and it was fading and brittle after a few months. I have this black one for 2 years now, still works.
Very easy, front fascia requires no tools to remove. I mounted it to the plastic itself, 3 years later still no issues, sure there is some slight movement in the bar but pretty solid once everything is back together. Ran the wire through passenger firewall and into the aux compartment. Link below is the cheap one I used, has worked great thus far.
YITAMOTOR 22 Inch Light Bar Offroad Spot Flood Combo Led Bar Waterproof Dual Row LED Work Light with Wiring Harness compatible for Truck, 4X4, ATV, Boat, Jeep, LED Light Bar 120W White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151GUVBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PCGGGBC19PF1Z4SD8956?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used these terminal ends at the battery. You might be able to get away with cutting the factory cabling, stripping it back, putting ring terminals on it, and connecting.
On mine the battery terminal ends were losing connection with the wire. I just decided to replace all of the wiring with new. I’ll see if I can get a picture.
I’ve had these for 4 years in my 2018. Zero issues up to this point besides some minor moisture on the lenses every once in a while.
JDM ASTAR Bright White Max 50W High Power H10 9145 LED Fog Light Bulbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJ3KYGU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_K3156YSTW6G60P87NTGR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I picked up because I wasn’t sure if I even wanted it. Ran it through the passenger firewall and into the console by the USB ports. It’s been 3 years and it still works great and puts out what you can expect out of a 22in light bar.
YITAMOTOR 22 Inch Light Bar Offroad Spot Flood Combo Led Bar Waterproof Dual Row LED Work Light with Wiring Harness compatible for Truck, 4X4, ATV, Boat, Jeep, LED Light Bar 120W White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151GUVBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BRSY42E8RTZNAPQQWTSP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So I’m sure you’re looking for a double din but I didn’t want to hack up my WJs dash so I went with this: Sound Storm Labs w/ CarPlay . Got it for around $225 and it works excellent.
I put some of these bulbs in the lights on the inside of the tailgate. They light up the cargo area extremely well when the door is open. Way better then stock and much more useful. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FNH8XZK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QFCNQX0A1HDBHY9CBQX7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I purchased the oem ones on Amazon here’s the link only 118 Genuine Chrysler Parts - Mat Kit-Floor - 1St & 2Nd Row (82215577AC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQKCOCB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_9NT3J5A2KC2J012EWV0P
I already have the overlays. I need someone to apply them because I'm terrible at applying vinyl. Especially with the rounded tail light.
Also I don't like the look of the crux ones. I bought these
SEALIGHT 9005/HB3 H11/H9/H8 LED Bulbs Combo, Super Bright Cool White, Plug and Play, Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNY3ZVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_5DG7M7W6P7Q52AD88AKP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
AUTOSAVER88 Headlight Assembly Compatible with 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee OE Headlamp Black Housing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RJLDVC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_FCE46TA3MCF2D6DQGKD1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I did LEDS high, low and fogs
Those connectors you unplugged probably just disabled the electric door locks. I can't see as the spot you hit would cause any issues. There is something weird that goes on with the BCM and the rear light. you can manually press up on it and it turns on, and then turns on the rest of the lights for some period of time. If you lever the front of it down with a knife, you can pull the bulb and that might help the issue. Or pull the wires off by unscrewing the whole top bezel.
I had the same sort of weird issues there and just ended up using some cheap 12V LED strips and a manual switch mounted in that bezel up top. WAY more light. You might just do something similiar if you can't figure this out, mount them over the rear doors and put a switch in the console that you can activate by hand.
> So there’s a ball joint on the other end of the bolt and threads at the bottom of the circled part?
Yes. And you could just replace the ball joint which requires a little more work or you could buy the ball joint and the affixed part that screwes onto the tie rod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CA8PIQ/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CA2JGA/
One for each side. You could buy those and take them to a shop to install them if they are in fact your problem. Once they are swapped in, you will need to have an alignment done. Shouldn't take more than an hour to swap them out so don't get ripped off by a shop.
> Something like that could be causing a clunking/buckling noise when turning?
Absolutely. As you can see from the links I provided, they have a hole in the top for a zerk point to be installed. This allows you to add grease to them. The stock ones do not have a zerk point and therefor, grease cannot be added. If the grease get's pushed out they will inevitably not only wear out but clunk and eventually fail entirely which will not be good.
At some point in time, manufacturers decided that removing zerk points for "sealed joints" and "sealed bearings" was somehow a good idea and that they would last for the "lifetime of the vehicle". They were obviously wrong but refuse to go back to common sense practice of using zerk points. Of course, my recommendation is that if you replace a joint or bearing, try to get one with a zerk point and make sure that you add grease about every three to six months.
All that being said, keep in mind that the clunk itself could still be coming from somewhere else. If you can jack up the front of your vehicle and grab the tie rod end and actually make it move or rattle, that's the problem. If not, it may not be the problem but, can't hurt to replace them either.
The grill was ordered on Amazon. JeCar Mesh Grill Front Grille Trim Honeycomb Grill Inserts Cover Custom 3D Formed for 2014-2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DNHTG89/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QASXPK5MERAD8R9FV3MP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The headlights are from https://www.mhfautolighting.com
I've been using something like this for years in my WK https://www.amazon.com/SmartCharge-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Dedicated/dp/B07GJ7DHMP
It is simple, it works, gives me 2 usb ports available. Not the best audio but the stock audio in my WK is shitty to begin with.
You'll need to get a scanner to clear the stored codes and work on it any further.
This is the one I have.
SEALIGHT H11 H8 H16 Yellow Fog Light Bulbs, 3000K Golden Yellow 4000 Lumens 11W High Power, LED Fog Light DRL Bulbs Replacement for Cars ,Trucks, SUVs, Vans(Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087TKXK38/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_1RDXSK9A2J5F5TJN9YMS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Install was pretty easy. I used (this)[KICKER 47KEYLOC KEYLOC 10V RMS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084HL1D7P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share] to convert the signal wire from high volt to low volt for the amp. Then you also have to unplug the 4 microphones in the headliner/ceiling to stop the active noise cancellation system. The ANC system doesn’t work right anymore with amplified low tones. It sounds like a ground loop hum thru the subwoofer.
The med kit is from Surviveware and I bought it on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CQ8JVC7/
The Molle panels are from here...
https://www.molle-platform-solutions.com/product-page/wk-rear-window-molle-panels
since nobody’s being relatively helpful at all, i’ve attached a link to some plastic covers for your mirrors/ door covers. i’m happy with the purchase, they’ve stayed on for some time now and look good. https://www.amazon.com/sportuli-Replacement-2011-2019-Cherokee-Durango/dp/B0894WJQYP/ref=pd_aw_day0fbt_img_2/138-6604186-6988765?pd_rd_w=zPZ4d&pf_rd_p=079caffb-c6da-4e81-ac80-c10e4efbc5dc&pf_rd_r=PM1WEAT0AMJRZDNKY85T&pd_rd_r=920ebed5-5...
I did mine quite similiar to yours using these. I also put on of them on a wire loom and velcro so I could pull it off the hood and use it as a flashlight by hand. Been very happy with the amount of light underhood now.
I wouldn’t say it’s difficult… it’s just tedious. Get something like this to remove/install the screws. It’ll be pretty nearly impossible to get all the screws perfectly tight, but it’s not noticeable. Still a better route than taking off the whole bumper IMO… unless you’re really skilled with that sort of thing.
Fair enough. I have my rear taillight warning on my 98, but I've been chalking that up to the LED tailights not pulling enough resistance to keep the sensor from bitching. I might just try touching them up next time I have the dash apart (to fix the damn heater core, grrr).
Are you talking about an air mattress that fits in the back of the grand cherokee? If so, I use an Intex Twin in the back of mine and it works perfect. I bet even a full Intex would work fine too. This is the one I'm talking about that I use: https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Classic-Downy-Airbed-Twin/dp/B00C4ZVMV0/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Intex+twin&qid=1635866848&sr=8-5
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Can be found Cheaper at WalMart and will probably be under a different "Model" name. Just search Intex Twin.
I used this and it worked really well.
KNIPEX Cobra XL Pipe Wrench and Water Pump Pliers (400 mm) 87 01 400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001D9IWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3QKPAW6XQSD8XGW2N5FC
Also I learned to only use a 6 point socket vs 12 point on this thing to avoid destroying the hex.
You don't need new rails, they make crossbars for those. BRIGHTLINES Roof Rack Crossbars Compatible with 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude/SRT with Roof Black Moldings (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C44RNXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WBRT67M22WGPV6GW4482?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hello fellow human, I am using these front seat covers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TTRHBSV and this at the back https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1MV14F
I'm pretty happy with it. Does its job covering the seats from food and water spills, it doesn't cover the airbags and it doesn't look too bad either. I have 2 medium-sized dogs and the back seat covers work well protecting the cloth seats.
I looked but I don’t have the same Amazon account as years ago so I have no idea what the exact model is. They look identical to these that are shaped like an airplane wing and have a keyhole on the end
D3S D3R D3C LED Bulbs 6000K White 55W 12500Lumens Super Bright with Canbus Decoding Plug and Play Replace Original Xenon Bulbs D3S D3R D3C LED Headlight Conversion Kits (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T5NLFVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KYVPGAAEB65C8XZAEVDP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That’s the ones I got
I sprayed some White Lithium Grease on the door hinge and it slowly got better and better until now where I almost never hear it.
If you don't plan on using the lower fascia anymore, I learned a trick from the forums that you can line the ugly bottom edge of the bumper with this stuff, and it makes it look a lot cleaner. Check my post history to see it on mine.
I use this Maxboost Car Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0GTZDN
I have a note10+ which is as big as the pro max. The magnet holds well even when i go off road. Very easy to mount the phone and very easy to tale it off. The trade off is that you cant do wireless charging because you need to put a thin metal plate on your case.
You can buy cover material that is custom-cut to go over the center console and the door with matching material - I've seen carbon fiber for example:
Check this out at Amazon YOCTM For Jeep Grand Cherokee 2014 2015 Interior Accessories Black Real Carbon Fiber Center Console Cup Holder Cover Trim https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X3M8892/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_HHMR3NP3T08PJY3E8MMH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think these might be the same but I’m trying to confirm. Labeled for a GC
Labeled for a commander.
The other “cheap” aftermarket listed for commanders do not have the rear glass spray nozzle built into it but my commander does have that feature.
Something like this, don't remember the exact model
Shackle Hitch Receiver 2 inch 41918 Lbs Break Strength Never Rust Receiver Shackle Bracket Heavy Duty and Solid with 3/4'' D Ring Shackle, Towing Accessories Compatible with Trucks Jeeps (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079FNGH9J/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_TVJRX4DRAYEFBZZGHEAR
Here is the one I bought. Clips into the air vent, provides wireless charging, and doesn’t require sticking anything on Phone to work.
Anker Wireless Charger, PowerWave 7.5 Car Charger with Air Vent Phone Holder, 7.5W for iPhone 11, 11 Pro, 11 Pro Max, XS Max, XS, XR, X, 10W for Galaxy S10 S9 S8, Note 10 Note 9(No Car Charger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9FYBMJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XWWTMWY1J1D2PV24BF3A
I'm usually taking my kayak out alone, and a roof rack has been great.
You can also get a kayak roof kit that comes with a couple foam pads and straps, so you can avoid a roof rack if you don't want one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EET2OE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_V1KT65XKH1273J2N0JTQ
Auto Accessories for Jeep Grand Cherokee 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 Car Air Vent Mount Cell Phone Holder, Car Dashboard Mount Car Mount Car Phone Holder Cell Mobile Phone Stable Cradles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081VDKNCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H9DQJNZ6QRXKZJJ6CF1Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1