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A couple of weeks ago the right cylinder blew out, so that meant it was time to for new brakes for the rear, which were surely original to the truck.
I haven't done drum brakes in about 15 years. While this was very frustrating, it was still straightforward. I generally followed this procedure.
I did the driver's side first, since it was the "good" side, and it naturally took the longest. I couldn't get the brake line flange nut to re-thread in the new wheel cylinder no matter what I did. Either the thread was messed up from the factory or I messed it up trying to install it. I took the brake line out entirely, cleaned up the thread a bit, and managed to get it started on the bench.
The "bad" side took much less time and I had no issues threading the flange nut. I would say it took me an hour, where the driver's side took me three.
Top tips: I've never had a drum brake tool kit before, and that made some of this much easier. I used this kit from Amazon. Also, do one side at a time, so that you can use the other side as a reference. If you take both sides apart and throw everything into a box, you're going to have a difficult time figuring out how it all went together...
All the parts I used were AC Delco branded, and the drum brake kit, with springs and so on, was branded Carlson. No complaints about the quality of any of the parts.
I'll bleed the brakes tomorrow and hopefully it will stop! *Edit - bled brakes today, and it does indeed stop.
It's an ARIES 3053. I found it on either Craigslist or Letgo for like $150. If you want a new one they are close to $500. It took me awhile to find a used one, but I didnt want to pay so much for it.
Here is is in Amazon:
ARIES 3053 1-1/2-Inch Black Steel Grill Guard Select Ford Ranger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FCK01Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hx3hDbF10EYER
In-line switch:
USMEI Round Rocker Switch, 2PCS 2 pin Red Button Toggle Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYRWFFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_405BYGJ4K5RFBPF6CVMG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Automatic magnetic switch:
Directed Electronics 8600 Micro Magnetic Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SUEZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3YS8RZ7C49CA1YJ182WP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Have you used it on other Fords? You need one that supports ELM 327, and even ones that support it are picky in my experience.
This one works for me - https://www.amazon.com/OHP-ELMconfig-Adapter-Compatible-Diagnostics/dp/B01F0GVBWY
The adapter I got for my Chevy works perfectly in that but has similar issues as you in my Ranger.
Also I'm not sure how well Fords work with phone apps, I use Forscan on a laptop.
I got these amerilites. They look factory when off which is the look I wanted
Zombie_hickey is the homie and I put in sound deadening material I got from amazon, it was cheap and easy to apply.
https://imgur.com/gallery/lBOff
This is the material we used (plenty for the entire cab of a ranger) Noico 50 mil 50 sqft car Sound deadening mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URR4O5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_8DRzqRec6Lm8e
This plus a plastic tub with a lid should do it
Most of the parts actually came on the truck! I had to fix mechanical issues like a bent shift tube and broken cable. I believe he said he got them on amazon though. AUTOSAVER88 Fits for 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 ford Ranger Headlight Assembly+Corner light,OE Projector Headlamp,Black Housing Clear Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769NXBTR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5fhXEbYRPV4DD
I’ve been thinking about asking for 1k instead of that 1500.. but I found a nice black one today with rust spots on the back doors that may be easy to fix. here it is
This?
TOYOUN Classic Universal PU Leather Car Front Seat Covers High Back Bucket Seat Cover - Fit Most Cars, Trucks, SUVS, Vans 2 PCS Red Trim Auto Seat Covers Set Car Seat Protector for All Seasons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9Y6CRD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_09374CF6N4VWD56A2C4Y
General Walmart bucket seat covers should work too.
Bought them on Amazon for ~$350 give or take, can’t remember the actual price. CRAGAR 365 V-5 15X10 5X114.3 Offset -44.45 Gloss Black Powdercoated (Qty of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019XDIS44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZM74XPR2400D98X2Q795 there’s the link to them. Says they’re currently unavailable though. But you can find them on google from several other places. Also I wound up putting some 265/70/15’s on them which gave them some stretch but I’m loving the look. Gotta lift the front a bit though. No rubbing yet, but it’s pretty tight
You could try taking an odb2 reader and get the codes.
The sensor is attached to the fuel pump, by the way. If thats the problem and you get the truck you might as well replace the fuel pump too. I bought this one and replaced it several months ago. You have to remove the truck bed to get to it. Thats the hard part especially working without any help. The rest is a piece of cake.
TYC 3040112 Compatible with Ford Ranger Driver Side Manual Replacement Mirror https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041TTY4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S303FRRZZ2752128YQYC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There are other options for manufacturers. Rock auto has them too, just search for Rangers ‘06-‘11
Looks like the clearcoat has seen better days.
I just bought a can of this after watching some youtube videos of DIY clearcoat.
Haven't tried it yet but you want to consider doing that soon.
I bought these and they're great but they fit into the standard housing and those little mirrored panels in the housing cause them to throw out very jagged, uneven light.
These guys right here. Vibrated a lot at highway speeds at first so I did the trick where you add weatherstripping on the back of the led bar and that solved my problem https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVP8W19?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Similar to the other answer - what I have used in my other truck is a tailgate pad. IMO it’s the most secure way to travel on the highway - I would always be paranoid that my rack would spontaneously combust & my bike would meet the road (I know it’s unrealistic)
I’ve got the first generation of this one
mines a 36"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VR9VM5R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
love it. have had it installed since april. been thru many rain storms 100+ degree heat, single digit cold. I have it wired up to a 3 position switch: up is on, center is off, down is tied into the high beams of the truck so when highbeams on it triggers the relay for the light bar. makes it so much easier to kill it at night quickly.
Factory bulb is a 194LL (iirc) or T10. If you want to go LEDs then it should be this set: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00KT1BH1Q/
Do note with LEDs the polarity does matter, unlike the incandescent bulb style. If you convert, make sure you power the cluster on and test that bulbs are lit up before you put it all back together. If the LED doesn't light, turn it around in the base and try again.
I've thought about some halo lights like these.
But my Ranger has 330K miles on it and is no longer my primary vehicle. I don't drive it often, and even less at dark. I'm not sure how much life she has left so its hard to justify the cost of good halo lights.
It was a cheap China bar off amazon. TaoTronics 10-30V 21.5'' 120W Led off road SUV Jeep off road Truck ATV High Power Light Bar Work Lamp 8000 Lm White FLOOD Lights IP65 Waterproof https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AGAGCRE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.Aiavb0RA7HTS
These lights are the ones I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EA0ZB7I/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5khOvbVJP67RW
Then if you look up wiring harnesses on Amazon take a pick and it's super easy. Message me if you have any more questions man
Might as well try! The truck sat unused for about at least a year before I bought it. Everything could just be ridiculously dirty, there was a mouse nest in the air filter when I got it.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-970-012-Wheel-Speed-Sensor/dp/B001C6JCMI/ I had checked on the Dorman site and this is the one that's supposed to fit, Amazon backs it up too.
There’s one on amazon by Tyger Auto and it fits real nice. It doesn’t use the rivets like your truck has though, I’m not sure about any like that for Rangers.
Here's the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XMQRJYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C5SjCbRYW4CY4
I put them on my truck over a year ago, and haven't noticed any significant sun damage, fading, or other wear. The seller also offers multiple sizes.
Nice username btw, same here 🎺
You'll want to use a ford stereo removal tool to pop the old unit out, but you shouldn't have any trouble finding adapters from the truck harness to whatever stereo you want to go with.
Removal tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TC9LW
I myself have a 2017 Joying android head unit in my truck. I had to very slightly trim the bezel top and bottom around the stock opening to fit the double din size radio. I've also substantially modified my radio itself, adding some heatsinks, fans, and replacing the Chinese amp chip with genuine Pioneer. I hear the newer units are a bit better out of the box though. You can find a photo of this installed in my 2011 ranger on the amazon review for it at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTQUKK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews
if you don't care about power ratings and just want bluetooth/usb, Amazon has a Boss radio they sell for $22 with instant coupon Partner this with a $4 wiring kit and you have bluetooth/usb jams for under $30.
Im sure I will get some audio guys downvoting me for recommending an off brand radio, but after using some of Boss' stuff, I can say its hand on heart a decent alternative to the big guys, they sound pretty good and the cost is really low.
Boss even has a couple of decent double din touch screens for under $100, or if you want to go super cheap, Amazon Prime days has a few of the off brand Chinese double dins for under $50 that get extremely good reviews, and typically have the benefit of being able to mirror your smart phone screen and/or play movies.
Polish up what you've got using something like this kit from 3M so they look new again and then throw in some LED headlight bulbs.
I believe this Hikari 9007 compatible bulb is the correct one for your year truck, and I just put those exact bulbs in my 2011. They are an amazing improvement over the old halogens, while still keeping the same light pattern as the factory intended so you won't blind oncoming drivers. There are other cheaper alternative bulbs if you look around too, but be mindful of the reviews, some are better than others.
Is the one I got, I would highly recommend getting a mat for the bed as well. I went with an inflatable mattress.
I posted earlier this week about sourcing the correct part. Apparently it doesn't exist. I went with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CNB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_Iy6BFbGYF7C8A
Of course it was rusted solid. This is a job for a torch! Burnt that old one off, blasted a hole to bolt the new one into. Cranked that summbitch down to 3 uggaduggas as reccomend in the manual. Good to go!
It took me about 30 minutes, and it was the easiest wiring job ever. Ground, power, light, and then a wire to the positive wide of the ignition coil. I tapped the fuse box with the power and light wires and snuck the ignition coil wire through the grommet that holds the hood release cable. Then I just made a new ground with a self tapping screw under the dash on the sidewall.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UM9WWBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LHFpFb74H4B21 This is the one I got, and it has a lot of good reviews if you have trouble finding one
I was able to fit 265/75/16's on my 2000 xlt 4x4 without any rubbing but I've heard mixed results. With the bigger tires it ended up being just the right amount of lift for my use around the yard and driving over small streams, through fields, stuff like that.
I put these headlights in mine (yours would need the appropriate year) and they have been alright, there's not a ton of options for led headlights for the older rangers it seems. If you want led turn signals as well, you'll need to pick up some resistors to prevent hyper flash.
I have probably done about 15-20 full car audio installs in my lifetime and crutchfield has never once let me down. I would honestly recommend replacing the factory speakers as well, nothing fancy, even Walmart "dual" brand speakers are world's better than 15 year old paper cone factory speakers. Crutchfield will show you everything that fits your vehicle, show you all of the wiring harnesses and adapters you need, and even provide guides. Also, when it comes time to install your wiring harness, buy some of these shrink wrap solder connectors you will not for a second regret it. I was able to get a double dinn in my ranger without using any installation kit but I did have to cut my stereo trim a bit, it was worth it to get the backup camera though.
Amazon, the description had in it that it was a genuine ford part and was verified though amazon. 3 inch by 9 inch. It was a little pricey but whatever, covid has me spending very little so eff it I thought.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017U10BB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I drove this brand new off the lot in late 2000.
Several months ago she would no longer start so she sat but I recently got back to work on it. I don't know much about auto repair so I watched some YouTube videos and just started replacing parts that were due to be replaced anyway. New spark plugs, wires, coil pack, and fuel filter didn't help. Bought a fuel pump test kit and determined that was it.
What a pain that was to replace. I had to remove the truck bed to get to it, then siphoned a full tank out (I had filled up before the pump died).
Replaced the pump and poured a 5 gallon can of fresh gas in. She started up like the first day I drove her off the lot.
Over the 20 years I've done nearly all work myself even though I don't really know what I'm doing. YouTube has been an awesome resource.
To the best of my recollection and skimming through my Amazon order history, here's what I've replaced in addition to the aforementioned parts.
I bought the kit with the intention of doing it myself but after watching some videos with all the hoses and guages and dials, I decided it was beyond me. I found a local shop that installed the kit I bought for just a couple hundred bucks.
Other parts replaced:
Mirror switch, Vacuum hose, shocks, control arms (paid a friend of a friend to install), blower motor resistor, tailgate door handle, headlight assemblies, LED headlight bulbs.
Other parts I replaced that ended up not being the problem but probably would need replacing some day anyway:
Throttle position sensor, mass air flow sensor.
I recently replaced them on my 2001 V6 4.0. The 3 on the driver's side aren't bad. The first couple on the passenger side aren't terrible. The last one is tricky. You need to put the truck up on jack stands and remove the front passenger side tire. Remove the flap behind the tire to get to the engine. Get a LONG extension for your ratchet and some universal joints.
I bought this from Amazon and it was perfect.
You'll be able to reach that last plug now.
I love mine! Rolls up to nothing when I need to haul big things, and looks good and is water tight. The best $150 I have spent on this truck. I got mine from North Mountain on Amazon.
North Mountain Soft Vinyl Roll-up Tonneau Cover, Fit 83-11 Ford Ranger 94-10 Mazda B2300/B2500/B3000/B4000 Pickup 6ft Bed, Clamp On No Drill Top Mount Assembly w/Rails Mounting Hardware https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY0U04L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gCv6EbAQDDB2X
the thing about LED's does depend very heavily on the actual LED bulbs themselves. I've gone through a fuckload of sets over the years.... these are damn near perfect
Admittedly, as with anything, getting the new housings aimed properly sucked ass, but once done, it's actually awesome visibility.
you're better off with the standard yellow incandescent bulbs in the fogs, and LED's in the headlights.
Fair warning though, finding LED headlights that fit without a lot of fiddling sucked. And getting them aimed right afterwards is one of the most tedious activities I've undertaken in years.
Here’s an amazon link but it’s sold at walmart and the auto parts stores.
The old mechanic that recommended it to me told me one bottle a year and a second bottle won’t do anything, that just one bottle is all you need. Of course I tried it anyway, after a couple of days I did another treatment and he was right, it had no effect.
https://smile.amazon.com/Chevron-Techron-Concentrate-System-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E/
You need to remove it as much as possible. Get a wire brush and a grinder and get to work. You want to see as much bare metal as possible. Then coat it with something like POR-15. Yes, it's called Paint OVER Rust but I still recommend getting rid of it all first. If you start to find holes or soft spots in your frame, you have bigger problems that will require patching with metal and welding.
If it isn't a quick solution like the fuse... https://www.amazon.com/Wolo-430-Musical-Horn-Dixieland/dp/B00029XHZ4
My friend had a jeep that had a differential basically explode and crack the housing. He was able to get it back to my house. It sat so long in my driveway I bought a 5 horn system that played dixie when you held a button I added to his dash. There are a bunch of sound options you could choose from. I chose Dixie because of how uncomfortable it would make him feel when the button would get pressed. It was super easy to install and i wired it directly to his battery so I could press the button even when he was parked with the jeep off.
10" drums?
If neither of those is the right thing, could be a junkyard part.
Don't - your headlight housing were designed for Halogens and you'll just be wasting money to scatter light. Majority of the time you get the "Maglight effect" of the bulbs being brighter, but actually less usable light where it needs to be: on the road.
You want good lighting, start with good wiring. The Ranger runs the power for the headlights from the battery, to the distribution box, to the fuse box, to the headlight switch, and then out to the bulbs, and back to the fog relays, then ground. H*uge voltage drop* with all that all over the truck. Find a good Headlight Relay Harness that uses relays to get power from the batter directly to the bulbs. By FAR the best bang for your buck lighting upgrade. Clean, full power will give you the brightest output no matter what bulb ( I suggest Osram Nightbreaker Halogens).
If you want LEDs, you'll need new housings with projectors or housings SPECIFICALLY designed for LEDS. Projectors are by far easier to come by. This is a Nice set for your model truck that I know works well with Auxito LEDs (set up on a buddy's truck) and has a clean, sharp cut off and put light where it needs to be.
Fogs you can do the same with a relay harness to get the best performance. The beam pattern on stock fogs is actually fairly good - more power would be better. Swapping to a selective yellow PIAA or Hella bulb can get you better foul weather performance (and looks good).
The past few weeks I've been addressing this. As everyone has said, don't use rubberized liner. It will trap water in between it and the frame and make the problem worse. I cleaned up rust as good as possible with wire brush/wheel, applied FDC Rust Converter(2 coats). This will "stop" the rust, and act as a primer to then paint over for further protection(I skipped this step due to time). Then fluid film the thing each year and you should be golden. Maybe a lot of work, but should be well worth it. I'll let you know in 7 years what I think about it!
look to the right of the head unit, you can kinda see a USB port that I slapped into the cigarette lighter spot on that side. I used this sucker and a 1 inch holesaw and drilled the hole out big enough to fit.
Theres a mod where you use a bunch of random parts:
https://www.etrailer.com/Spare-Tire-Carrier/Draw-Tite/6715.html
Also needed to use a 1ft extension. Cut the right angle off the stock tire mount and re drill the holes. Both everything up. I also shortened the pivoting bracket so its as close as possible to the truck. Again, redrill all bolt holes.
OP those are normal truck bed rails - almost any tonneau will work. Plastic bedliner might need trimming for attachment points. If you buy from a reputable place for your correct truck, then it should go into place fairly easily.
I've had a few covers across my different trucks. I started with an Extang hinged cover that lifted up as a one piece. Super convienent until it wasn't. Tall items I had to drive with teh cover sticking up. I had a roll up cover like minto990 posted, and it worked great unless there was rain when the truck was stationary - it didnt' have any bows to support the fabric and only last a year. I got a better one with bows and it lasted until I got my '19 Ranger, and then I went to the Trifecta 2.0 tri-fold style. This type is my favorite style now. Super easy to fold up, and even remove/replace, in less than a minute.
I also have a 2011 xlt 6ft. I was thinking of ordering this one because it appears it comes with everything needed for it to work:
Found a metal replacement at Amazon. link
I put a double din touchscreen Pioneer MVH-300EX in my Ranger. I like it.
I also added a Pioneer mini amp, the GM-D1004 to my setup. Used RCA cables from Amazon, and mounted it behind my kick panel. Since my cigarette lighter plug was broke, I replaced the hole it left in the bezel, with a USB extension like this one from Amazon
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V1M962/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
hmm just found a nodular iron cover, not sure if it fits. Amazon says it don't but it's 8.8" and the bolt pattern looks the same 🤔
They sell a remote start kit on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/MPC-Starter-HONK-Lock-Unlock-Lock-T-Harness-Activated/dp/B08L6YBNF5/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1O1QESWOQ97FM&keywords=MPC+Plug+N+Play+Remote+Starter+for+2019-2022+Ford+ranger&qid=1665541674&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjA2IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=mpc+plug+n+play+remote+starter+for+2019-2022+ford+range%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-1 this is for push to start.
I've been running a set of these in my Ranger (and my motorhome) for a couple years. They're nice and bright, and keep a decent beam pattern that doesn't shine up into oncoming traffic.
I've got a suction cup phone holder that mounts to my windshield. It has a flexible stalk and it works great.
Something like this, but I bought it at a local Walmart.
Have an older Ranger and didn't want to block my vents, so I went with this:
https://www.amazon.com/DigitlMobile-Phone-Mount-Holder-Truck/dp/B017A95ZK8/
Honestly, $300 isn't terrible especially with the visors included, but as the reply above states, it isn't super duper hard to do yourself. I did my Ranger (exact color as yours).
Cleaning the foam off is a must, and this took longest. I started scraping with a good knife, but wire wheel will make much quicker work of it.
The Ranger headliner is not plastic but a fiber glass/ cardboard that you can't go crazy on, so remove foam lightly.
There are several great YouTube videos out there.
I used this for headliner material and I swear it looks like it was from factory:
Bry-Tech Automotive1 Automotive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NG5PQCF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you do the handles don't bolt them. Do it the way Ford did with a riveter and the right rivets. It's super easy and cheap to do it right. These are the ones I used on my 1996:
25 Peel Type Door Handle & Lock Rivets Compatible with Ford
Well, take the shifter off and see what's going on. If you're lucky, there's so much slop in the bushings you can't move the fork, and it'll cost $23 to fix.
If you're less lucky, you broke the shifter stub, or something inside the top cover, which becomes a "drop the trans" problem.
No worries. I don't think anybody should be scared of tackling at least routine maintenance on their own, especially in the internet age with easy access to tutorials.
Speaking generally, a press is a force multiplier.
A ball-joint press specifically is basically a fuckoff huge c-clamp with deep cups on the ends. It applies a bunch of force to press the ball-joint out of where it lives in the control arm, or back in.
When I put one one my '01, I got a pre-drilled unit from Amazon, it was a Reese brand. the bolt holes lined up perfectly on the chassis rails. Word of advice, drop the spare tire, the clearance needed to put the hitch in is more than what Ford left up there, once the hitch is in the tire will fit like a glove. Also, depending on what tires you use, you might need to deflate them some to get it to winch all the way up.
I feel your pain. I have a 2001 XLT and the terminals corroded to the point I had to replace them. I bought this set and the negative was too big to make good contact with the post. I bought some sleeves that fit over the post but then the new terminal was too small to fit.
So I bought this set and they're much more snug - too snug, really, but I gently hammered them on so its working out okay.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H8BU5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I used when I wanted this feature.
I bought a set off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T46MDZC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details and they work great! The install was super easy. I reused the connectors from the only one so I didn't have to take the wheel off. Very easy!
Something like this maybe?
I'm the second owner of a cream puff 2001B3000 and it came with a campershell. I don't camp but I love the utility of the thing. Waterproof lockable storage, tons of room, etcetera. I bought the truck originally as a personal snow plow end did find my rear visibility hindered. So I got a nice camera and mounted it on the back of the shell. It works great. Inexpensive, and easy to hook up
Limited-time deal: AUTO-VOX M1W Wireless Backup Camera Kit, Super Night Vision (6 LEDs) HD Rear View Camera for Truck, Sedan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07425TPBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_dl_AB41ABVV4WYG0A22KBK1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I cleaned up the stock headlight housing using a 3M headlight restorat kit and then used these LED bulbs in my 2011, and I'm quite happy with them. They're massively more powerful than the stock bulbs, and they still keep a good pattern that doesn't blind incoming drivers.
I liked them enough I bought a second set for my motorhome as well.
cool yea il definitely just atleast try this first then. Do you know if you need the obd to usb connector they advertise on their site, or can i buy one of these cheaper ones off amazon.
It says its compatible so i assume it would work just wondering if you had experience with other cables.
I’ve used this in the past and had good luck with it. UngSung Vehicle Hood & Fender Mount Bracket for CB UHF VHF Ham Radio Antenna Pole Z Mounting Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JPN3DF3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NZ5JEKY70YRN0NQE74CV
For anyone interested here is what I installed.
Tonneau cover: TruXedo Lo Pro Soft Roll Up Truck Bed Tonneau Cover | 550101 | Fits 1982 - 2011 Ford Ranger 6' Bed (72") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BIXEVI/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_Y4TTV92GJBC4N2MBTS3E
Rails: MaxMate Premium Compatible with 92-11 Ford Ranger/2015 Chevy Colorado, GMC Canyon/00-06 Toyota Tundra with 72 inch (= 6 feet) Short Bed Stainless Steel Pickup Truck Bed Side Rails | WBF20187 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CU6YG02/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_GMNFG6EDX6F5PRJ8QAWW
Bed liner was done by Line X in Livonia, MI a couple of days ago.
If nobody makes the part (or if you end up finding some sort of bespoke "racing"-branded tube) you're not really looking at saving any money.
Having temporarily run "test pipe" on two different offroad vehicles due to lack of funds and shop space, it's one of the grossest, foulest-smelling things around. Everybody behind you will hate you and end up with a headache. "Power gains" from running catless are almost 100% myth.
If the budget is that tight, sometimes you don't get to go off-roading. "Universal" cats, that don't work as well or last as long as stock but are far, far better than nothing, are like $50.
Just ordered this one off Amazon to be delivered today, was about $65. Just another Chinese made radio but hopefully it will be alright. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094FYJL5T?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Get one of those led lights that are push button with batteries. They make them with magnets on the back so it’ll stick to your roof. This one has 1500 lumens so it’ll light up your interior so bright you will thing you are driving into the sun. 🤣
I bought some Fahren brand LEDs in 2020. The product link on Amazon is no longer valid but my order description says: >Fahren 9007/HB5 LED Headlight Bulbs, 60W 12000 Lumens Super Bright...
I've been happy with them and they do have other variations available like this. Best I can tell they're just brighter but probably run hotter as well so I'm not sure how longevity will be. They do have fans in them to keep them cool(er) but I'm not sure how much good they do on a hot summer day.
If money were no object I'd probably opt for Spyder halos but on a 20 year old truck with 337K miles on it, I went for the LED conversion.
AUXITO 194 LED Light Bulb 6000K... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LHP5WP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I put these in my 03 ranger they work great and are super bright tried using red ones but did not work out
The 50 sq-ft limit is from Ford, specifically about your model year Ranger (though it applies to my '11 as well) details about it at: https://www.slideshare.net/AnciraCommunity/2010-ford-ranger-towing-guide-specifications-capabilities
It's due to the horsepower requirements just for the sheer wind displacement when at highway speed. For example, I've got a 20' enclosed car hauler trailer that I typically use to hold my ranger behind my motorhome, but sometimes I'll tow the trailer itself behind my 2011 Ranger when I need it for other stuff. This trailer is within my rated weight limits while empty, but maintaining highway speed with it makes the poor little Ranger work really hard the whole time. It's around 80sq-ft in area, and well over the specified limit from Ford for my truck.
Here are the side steps:
TAC Side Steps fit 1998-2011 Ford Ranger Regular Cab Pickup Truck 3 inches Black Side Bars Nerf Bars Step Rails Running Boards Rock Panel Off Road Exterior Accessories (2 Pieces Running Boards) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZCI3DY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_0B74XQ6AVJ7CEQR14005?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here is the bull bar:
TAC Bull Bar Fit 1998-2012 Ford Ranger/Ranger Edge (Excluded STX Model) Pickup Truck 2.5” Black Front Bumper Grille Guard Brush Guard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3WOZ7S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_J6K77S1YM4DZDSGV17ET?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A foam cannon is the only way to go. I've had this el-cheapo one for 3 years and it's still going strong.
I just bought the wireless one for ford:
Genuine Ford 7L2Z-14A626-BA Keyless Entry Keypad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HB9K55S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_432WGD1D876N8GV8RPY4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It connects to your car like a key fob. Works great, battery pays for years.
Im thinking you should go with a relay setup like this one.
You would run power to the switch from the battery. Then connect a switch to terminal 30 of the relay. Then connect term 87 of the relay to the positive lead of the lights you want to install. Attach 85 to a ground. Then find the wire that comes out of the 'on' position of your headlight switch, judging by the diagram here, it's the red/yellow wire. You need to tap into that wire with a t-tap wire connector and run that line to terminal 86.
That should send power to your new lights only if your switch is in the on position and your headlight switch is in the on position. The relay senses power from the energized headlight circuit and allows power to go through the relay from the battery to your lights. When you turn your headlights off that kills the circuit and the relay loses power turning off your new lights with the headlights.
Start with your basics spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter maybe Injectors If you can find a good price on a full set. Also the O2 sensors are fairly cheap for these trucks if it's never been changed maybe it's time what condition is the cat in? Mine plugged up around 150k miles I just got rid of it no emissions in my town.
Poor mileage can be a ton of things pick up an OBD 1 scanner if you don't have one I linked a very basic one
Pull wheel off. Run lug nut down on 2 studs. Get a dial indicator and check rotor runout to see if it's in spec when you rotate it. Let me know what the runout is.
ATPEAM Dial Indicator with Magnetic Base | 130lbs Magnetic Base with Fine Adjustment and Metric Dial Test Indicator with 0.01mm Resolution, 0-10mm Measuring Range https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08YJ1MZSY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZRQ3EEE11FMRXE4H2GWN
BASIKER Steering Wheel Cruise Control Switch Button Fit for Ford Explorer & Ford Ranger Mercury Mazda Perfect Replacement OEM SW-5928 F87Z9C888BB F87A9D809BA | Black 1998-2005 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PHQSQYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_9QJ2RDJZ6VJ89J08JKGG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I was having the same problem with my 2008 Ranger and i just installed this LED turn signal relay today and it worked like a charm. no more hyper flashing.
3M Stripe Off Wheel – Adhesive Remover – Eraser Wheel – Removes Decals, Stripes, Vinyl, Tapes and Graphics – 4” diameter x 5/8” thick – 3/8-16 threaded mandrel – 07498 – Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00063VT0G/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_1W106C3Q2DKS10RC1E2S
These work well. I find em at the auto parts store.
My buddy had massive company decals on his van.. gone.
Test the fuel pump.
You can borrow a test kit from auto zone, but their definition of "borrowing" is to have you pay a ludicrous amount for a filthy used piece of junk, then return it for a refund. When I did that it was missing the schrader valve adapter for Ford so I ended up buying this kit from Amazon.
When testing it I could see that the pressure wasn't nearly in the range it should have been. Replaced the fuel pump and it started up like the day I drove it off the lot.
thats quite a steal.
wheels im looking at from walmart of same style are 90ish a piece, then looking at these too
94 ranger xlt 2500 obo This would be my first Ranger. Pictures make it look well taken care of, and so does the description. It's a hike for me so I am asking as many questions as I can before I make the drive on reddit and to the seller. 155,708 mi. Any advice would be helpful
Tires are 30x9.5 desert hawk m/t wheels and pro comp wheels PRO COMP Series 31 Stryker Matte Black (15x8 / 5x4.5 / -19mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SH4776Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_6NNSSPPCW66Z8E28WCRK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are the exact ones I got. There are probably better options. At the time they were next day delivery. But they work great.
Metal Door Handles Black Textured Front Left & Right Pair Set Kit for Ranger https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B078Y7W8S8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_R5940M77FYA76WT3SXCK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Would this be what you're looking for: 9Inch fit for Ford F150 Front Grille Rear Tailgate Emblem, 9"X3.5" Oval Badge Name Plate for 2004-2014 Ford, 2005-2007 F250 F350, 11-14 Edge, 11-16 Explorer, 06-11 Ranger (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09J8MJ54G/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_SBP1J4JHTD99E4FTG9H2
As much as I hate buying car parts from here, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VT5S8GX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KJ12DF9SC544PD267752
The quality as actually really decent and the price isn’t awful. I still have to put a winch on mine.
Amazon, it was the only one that I felt matched the vibe of the truck. The quality is so much better than I expected. Front Modular Winch Bumper W/ Bull Bar For Ford Ranger 1998-2011 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VT5S8GX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KJ12DF9SC544PD267752