What are /r/CarAV's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Head unit aside, you've got like 20 bucks wrapped up in it. So if it sounds great to you, then that's a friggin win.

Your amp wiring has a few issues. That lawnmower battery has got to go. It's a fire hazard, you've got no fuse inline, and having to pull it out a recharge every other day is less than ideal, we'll say. You're using lamp cord for power wire. Good thing that amplifier doesn't output the power it claims. Buy a proper 8 gauge kit. I know it's a lot of money, but it includes everything you need to do this right AND will work with your next amplifier too. Quit being lazy and run the 8 gauge from your battery to the amp and the RCAs from the head unit. The fuse goes under the hood and within 18" of the battery. It's all fun and games until your laziness sets the whole car ablaze and you're walking to school everyday while your friends drive by and laugh.

If this is 2015 and up subaru There are metra TOYOTA adapters that are perfect. I used them on my mothers car for 6x9's

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-82-8146-Speaker-Adapter-Vehicles/dp/B00IIC6CPE/ref=pd\_lpo\_1?pd\_rd\_i=B00IIC6CPE&psc=1

Looks like a Molex mini-fit connector. You could piece together the connector + terminals and build your own, but as an easy way out, it also looks like a computer's 8-pin CPU connector. Could buy a pigtail and hack it up. Worth a shot.

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family/minifit\_power\_connector\_solutions

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VF887KN/

I like it! That little section of dash/center console looks like it was perfectly crafted to have a flat screen reciever in it. I have a 2003 Chevy Tracker that has a similarly low mounted stereo. I do wish it were higher so I could keep my eyes on a more direct line of sight to the road while glancing at google maps navigation, but it also keeps the screen a bit more out of sight from thieves.

I've thought it'd be a good idea to make or buy a "fake faceplate" for my stereo when I'm away from my vehicle for longer than I like. https://www.amazon.com/XTRONS-Security-Panel-Double-Player/dp/B00JRUIMHM. I was going to make one out of the stock stereo and took it apart and figured out how to do it but dont really want to mess it up in case I ever want to sell the car and put it back in as I wouldn't want to give my nice deck away with the car sale. It's just so easy to peer into some of these older boxy style bodies with clear glass.

Looks like an older Alpine, but isn't. It's a rip-off or direct knock-off attempt (all the actual brand logos are missing). Its a Krown or similar.

https://www.flipkart.com/krown-v12-mrv-f705-4-channel-power-amp-3600watts-multi-class-ab-car-amplifier/p/itmegzyn4h9pewbt

Probably worth essentially nothing.

At one point the Alpine V12 amps were the most counterfeited piece of car audio gear ever.

Edit - OP, I don't think yours is the exact one I linked or anything, but that's an example of a similar fake/rip-off of an Alpine V12. Uses the exact same heat sink from the looks of it.

This is nice. I do not know why but this brings back memories from the Early 90's Precision Power days. I love it! For some reason or another, this was my first thought!

There are so many newbies that need this app.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.xplicit.xplicitaudioapp

They need to know how to calculate ohm loads and that no matter how you wire them you always add the wattage together and get an amplifier capable of the summed wattage at the proper ohm load.

Spend money on a multimeter. It's one of the most critical pieces for setting up and troubleshooting equipment.

Know your power requirements, wire and fuse sizes needed.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-jZk5f61qZHN/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html

You need something like this.

Corolla 1998-2002 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0169MV538/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5zoOCbVB53MCJ

Corolla 2004-2010 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RGKNA68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JBoOCb0PNJA77

Found two one that ended at 2002 and another that starts at 2004 so not sure why your 2003 isn’t included but you should be able to find something that works.

Way back in the stone ages, we had to make due with all sorts of weird contraptions to make external devices with car stereos. Many didn’t even have an Aux port.

There are FM transmitters that you can add, but something like this could do the trick:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08KY684PB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EM7TS3Y0ZR7C1JR79WXE

Essentially: you connect to this device from your phone via Bluetooth, and plug this device into your Aux port. Change the input on your stereo to Aux and you’re good to go.

Another option is a whole new stereo with Android Auto or CarPlay, but if you’re looking for a solution under 20 bucks, this is one to explore.

Get a usb-c DAC that has a 3.5mm audio output jack. The usb-c end of the DAC plugs into your phone and then you just run a 3.5mm aux cord from the DAC to your car's aux input jack. Pretty simple setup and will sound good. Something like this will work: Ikko Zerda https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WSSDNYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RQ87RTA852FBAGA3GXQ6

I'm by no means an expert on compact/under seat subwoofers but most of the ones I have looked at do NOT have connections to power external speakers.

Pioneer under seat subwoofer

The Pioneer one above allows you to connect from your source/head unit to it via RCA low power inputs or from speaker level inputs. The internal amplifier only powers the subwoofer and nothing else. All in ones like these are meant to be cheap and simple devices for beginners to get into car audio.

For what you are asking for, you might be better off getting a dedicated 4 channel amplifier (bridge 2 together to power a subwoofer & use the other 2 for your front speakers) & custom made subwoofer enclosure, if your budget allows for it.

Sorry, but the factory Chevy tuner is not compatible with any aftermarket head unit. But before you freak out, Sirius basically gives the tuner away for free when you purchase select new head units. You MIGHT be able to reuse the factory sat antenna using the Maestro Sat1, which would then plug into the aftermarket tuner. If not, the new Sirius tuner comes with one too. The piece you need is the SiriusXM V300. Again, often times free after rebate.

What features do you want and how much were you looking to spend for everything including parts? You have steering wheel controls that you want to work? Labor? Doing it yourself?

The second system is roughly the home theater equivalent of something like this.

If you want something comparable to your home in your car, I don't think the first quote is out of line.

Be aware though that diminishing returns are in effect. A car is a poor environment to try and get decent sound in.

You can use a propane torch or something, those work great. Go to auto zone and get copper if you can.. but your best bet is to order some off Amazon.

What a cunt for charging you for that. . He has absolutely no skill or knowledge with installs.

Wow I can't believe I'm even linking this thing here...

If you reeeeally want a super duper cheap 6.5" sub check out the Pyle PLPW6D. You can get it for $13 shipped from Amazon. Yes, $13, and it's dual 4 ohm like you need. It's not going to sound the best but it will hold you over until you can save some green to get it done right.

Just promise me you'll save up a few hundred dollars and get a proper bass setup some day.

Here's and example of the relays. You can buy them at any autoparts store, Best Buy, car electronics store, probably even WalMart. 12V 30A or 40A SPST or SPDT relay. Pin 30 goes to the 12V constant on the amp, Pin 87 goes to the LEDs + terminal, Pin 85 goes to ground on the amp, pin 86 goes to remote on the amp. Ground from the amp also goes to LEDs - terminal. You need a small inline fuse on pin 30. Again, you buy them at the same stores.

​

And if this is for you, just say it's for you man. We won't make fun of you....much. Plenty of dumb questions on here. Everybody is new at some point.

Use a signal generator app.

Android

Just installed that one, seems to work well. Lots of option, free, no bullshit.

iOS

Looks good, but I don't have anything with iOS to try it on.

I used to always buy those scosche amp install kits from Wal-Mart for front stage amp installs. 8 gauge with rca's, remote wire, fuse, and connectors... You can't beat that when it's something they usually stock. I am using those exact rca's in my current build. As for the amp, I'd shop around. I still have this amp that I bought probably 5 years ago and have abused more than a truckstop toilet and she still pounds. It's only a few bucks more and you'll have enough power to not worry about upgrading the amp until you get enough sub(s) that your friends think you have a car audio addiction.

Link

I've got 2 of these in the 16gb variety, one for country and one for everything else such as the Decaf Zips. I've had them for about 3 months now with no issues. They're super low profile.

If i had to pick the best all rounder ~$150 sub it would be the infinity kappa 12. It sounds really good in most situations.

if someone wanted me to build a bass murder machine and I get to pick a $150 driver, I'd probably try to get away with an American Bass xfl 15

No worries. Here are a few amazon specials. They should do the trick. Most decent car stereo shops will also have a selection. 3 fuse block

I used SecondSkin. It wasn't cheap but it is great quality. I had some Noice left over from another project and in a side-by-side comparison... well there is no comparison. Plus, I live in Texas and I've read the horror stories of using cheap rubber that melts.

https://www.amazon.com/Second-Skin-Damplifier-MADE-USA/dp/B01N35TYVT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1Y95KXASAAKLU&dchild=1&keywords=second+skin+sound+deadening&qid=1594765280&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=second+skin+sound%2Cmi%2C163&sr=1-3-catcorr

By no means an expert but from what I understand you want something like 12-16 inches of port area per cubic foot of box space.

There is a freeware app called Torres calculator that is helpful.

Fun to play around with. I like it because it lets you account for woofer and bracing displacement. It isn't perfect but it works.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=350B0BA350858E42!108&authkey=!ACOFwN3NhbSHpdM&ithint=folder%2cexe

If there's any way you could tell me the model numbers of what you bought that would help. But no, your car only needs 1 "loom" which I assume they're referring to "wiring harness" which is the proper term for it. Wire loom is this stuff that goes around wires to keep them safe from heat.

This is the only harness your car needs.

Yes but it's expensive. Here it is at Best Buy.com. You can look for it elsewhere, it's the Metra 99-5718. The good news is that the kit comes with the dash kit, wiring harness, antenna adapter, and antenna extender so you don't need to buy anything else other than the radio. Best of luck man.

Not a bad amp but there is a comparable pioneer amp which I have used in a few builds. This will probably be more power than an entry level 12 can handle so you will need to turn down the amp to a good level.

Pioneer GM-D8601

Yup! It's Lu - No More. It's the DECAF version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujZa4V4tcVQ

This one is from zip 36: https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=5b5ddb599b80e91b&id=5B5DDB599B80E91B!6211

I LOVE this song. Perfect for my car, hits that low really nice and clean, beautiful song too, a nice change from the generic gangster rap bass lines.

Why not just get a bluetooth cassette and skip the dangling wire and occupied charger port?

Or, you know, swap your radio out to one that has BT, aux, usb, etc. Decent ones are only like $100 these days.

Android Auto or Apple CarPlay are where the industry is heading these days. Pioneer and Kenwood both sell quality double-DIN units that support both of these standards.

Generally both Android Auto and CarPlay support limited apps and limited functionality, because the intent is for you to only get limited info you actually need, without distracting you - so you can focus on the road. Make sure the nav app you intend to use is actually supported (hint: Waze is NOT.)

I read a recommendation somewhere a while back so I bought this. I haven't had a chance to use it yet though so I can't fully recommend it, maybe someone else here has experience with it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMYS10S/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think in the end you would need a dsp possibly a new head unit too to start reaching a real sq build, honestly i think you will be very happy with 2 12's in a sealed box running off a lc2i. A sealed a box is a little easier and less expensive to aquire than a quality tuned ported box. The sub I listed needs I believe a .8 cf sealed box and a dual box can be purchased for I think $80 on Amazon as well. There's lots of nice amps around the$2-300 dollar range that you can get some nice clean power to the subs with. Though at 1k watts you might be pushing the limits of your stock electoral and a single 12 @5-600w in custom tuned box might be a better idea to extract more out of the single sub. There lots of subs to choose from audiofrog is one of the nice brands same with focal and hertz. I'm sure there are ton of other great choices but I think unless you are doing something to clean up your signal before you get it to your amp I would not fret too much about sq vs spl etc. Get some quality components and get some bump. I'm sure you will be happy.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N44N3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_SC2VXC9PBH08ZS2H6P4Y

You could order bana clips with set screws to use, I believe you can set this up so you can plug some banana clips in the bottom as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6CQCX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_C900KA1MQ8D3F98X0CGZ

ALITOVE AC 100-240V to DC 12V 10A Power Supply Adapter Converter Transformer 12 Volt 10 Amp 120W with 5.5mm x 2.5mm 2.1mm DC Output Jack for 5050 3528 LED Strip Light CCTV Cameras 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXXXBV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_76XG34QS58MYH9J5BPPB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Used one of these. Just ran the power wires from the unit to the adapter that this comes with. Super simple, and works very well.

Fast Rings

https://www.amazon.com/Road-Kill-RKFR6-Speaker-Enhancer/dp/B076MM4DJV/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=fast+rings&qid=1620580812&sr=8-3

Something like this?

Or do you need this end?

This is the answer. Then use wire lugs properly crimped. SMD Heavy Duty Speaker Terminal (Grade 8) (3/4" PVC Black) (1 Channel) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B085VYW8X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_70STFb7W66478?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased a Bluetooth receiver called grace 3 play. It allows you to connect 3 devices at once and has a smart way to deal with who gets to play music. Sounds like it would work for situation. I waited till it was 40$ on amazon because the price changes a lot. Check it out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZN1WTI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xkrnub06ETYC1

Get a line out converter. Splice it into the radio harness and gives you rca outs. Just find one on Amazon with good reviews.

Edit : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Llk-ub0FVZFK0

Check this out

the only reason you would need that harness is if you wanted to keep the factory speakers so that you could just plug them back in when you sell the car. yes it makes it easier to put in aftermarkets but you are gonna have to order them online. shops will carry them but for about 14 bucks.

http://www.metraonline.com/vfgapi/vehicle/21849?

the model is 72-7800 from metra.

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-7800-Connector-Harnesses-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEPJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471096649&sr=8-1&keywords=72-7800

as you can see. amazon has em for 7bucks.

I never thought of doing all of those, but I did use a USB/Aux panel I found on amazon for those connections.

https://www.amazon.com/Rerii-Meters-Length-Extension-Motorcycle/dp/B00S6IO0NG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&q

I think /u/For_Something answered everything about box building. Ported boxes must be built around the T/S parameters of the sub woofer. If you get a Type S, you should go for ported. It would be very simple to build a box for it and it would sound much better than that prefab you have on your list.

Most people buy their head unit from Crutchfield because they bundle all the install parts and vehicle specific instructions for (usually) a good price. You might consider that. Buying all the install parts separate with Amazon could cost more.

>Do you know if the amplifier works for the sub and components?

I wouldn't buy a four channel amp to run components and a sub. You'd only be giving your sub about 150 watts RMS, and it can handle 500 watts RMS. Get a mono sub amp with a sub sonic filter, and a 2 channel amp for the fronts. Here's a Skar amp as an example. Here's a nice US Acoustics 2 channel for the fronts. You can really go with anything though; I'd just try and get closer to the RMS of your speakers. 75x2 at 4 ohms for the fronts, 500x1 at 2 ohms for the sub. Alpine, Rockford, Pioneer, PPI, Skar, Zapco, Kicker all make amps that would work. Just stay away from Boss or anything remotely like Boss.

They are pretty much identical with the P having slightly more power (which will be inaudible). The I is more compact so if room is not an issue then the P would be fine. I would also invest in a better amp kit. Knukonceptz makes a solid kit.

Also I would not buy the amp from Amazon unless you know the seller is an authorized retailer. Otherwise no warranty.

Exactly what i was going to recommend. American Bass VFL series. amazon link They are one of the best deals in subwoofers available.

Well "RMS Power Handling: 150 Watts (300 Watts Per Pair)"

You only need 300 watts RMS at 2 ohms.

My vote on the cheap price side of an ok brand is https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69691_Kenwood-KAC-5001PS.html

or amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-5001PS-1000-Watt-Class-Amplifier/dp/B00B8B0Q9A

They just need to match. Look at the description of the sub.... it say 2ohm. Then if you look at the amp specs you can run each channel at 2 ohms or bridge both channels at 4ohm. You needs a 400watt amp at 2ohms. You can then use this one for the highs. How long ago did you buy it? Amazon has a very generous return policy if you got it there.

Here’s an example of what would work for the subs.

Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KkOuBbVB8HJ44

amazon is your friend SZSS-CAR HD Car Digital TV Turner ATSC Mobile Digital TV Receiver for USA Canada United States Mexico Korea

No; everyone seems to be confusing these new jl audio 12w0 subwoofers with old school jl w6 subs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PY8KD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E94xFbHB152EJ..edit: those are some nice subs

most 18650s are around 3Ah @ 3.7V nominal - to get 12V you need 4 in series. That means to get a ~12V 30Ah bank you'd need 40. (4x10).

Without a buck/boost adapter and charge controller all you will accomplish is starting a fire - the voltage is too different with lithium to substitute a bank instead of AGM.

You can, however, accomplish this with 3.2V nominal lifepo4 batteries.

Since you don't know a lot about power, a DIY 18650 project is an utterly terrible idea due to the hazards involved. Start out with a simpler (and less amp) project if you're gonna use the most dangerous battery/cell available.

You can buffer your power system with a supercapacitor, and this will help smooth out the voltage - but if you're not generating as much power as you're using there's no way to stop the voltage drop.

Any reason you’re only looking at 500 watt amps? W7’s can typically (in my admittedly anecdotal experience) take rates power or more. Setting gains properly is key.

Also have to take into account the 3 ohm coil. You’ll need a more powerful amp to hit that rated RMS the sub needs.

The Rockford Fosgate 1200 watt version of the Prime amp you linked would be perfect. It does 800 at 2 ohm which is probably closer to 920 per Rockford‘s usual underrated numbers. Amazon has the new R2 version for $329. I’d highly recommend the new version due to the input and output clip lights. It will take the guesswork out of setting your gains.

So, by no means is this little condenser mic a replacement for any type of professional audio recording gear. However, this little Dayton Audio IMM 6, with the right software and calibration file, certainly gets the job done.

If you’re looking to do a little fine tuning to your car audio system and don’t want to fork out much cash for equipment, I’d recommend giving this mic a try along with audio control’s audio tools app available for download on any iOS or android device. It definitely helps with identifying the peaks within your setups freq response.

Edit. Apparently this app isn’t for android but this one looks to be about the same. It costs 7.99$ through google but if you browse the torrent sites I’d bet you’d be able to find it for free.

It'll all work together well enough. Some will probably dog on you for buying a prefab box. But not everyone has the ability/skill/desire to build it themselves nor do they even care. When it comes to prefabs, I've found the QPower boxes to be pretty well built. Wish I knew the tuning frequency of that box, but hey, it'll be loud.

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No, you don't need a whole second wiring kit for the LC2i. But you'll need some smaller, say 14 or 16 gauge, wire and a small inline fuse holder. 5A is more than sufficient. If you'll be doing more work on you/your friends car, just buy this kit now. Whole huge box for not much more money.

American Bass XR 15

I have the 12 and it sounds great sealed. 15 should as well. You will be louder ported, but some people prefer the sound of sealed.

Yup - Newegg authorized retailer, here's the link for posterity.

https://slickdeals.net/f/12133450-pioneer-navigation-dvd-cd-receivers-w-7-touchscreen-avh-w4400nex-380-or-avic-w8400nex-naviation-600-more-free-s-h?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1

Are you sure it was that subwoofer and not this?

The one you posted has an amp built in, and doesn't need the $79.99 TruConnex 8AWG kit. It uses high-level inputs and a low amperage power wire. The one I posted is a cleaner match for the CX300.1. It is 300-330 (Kicker guarantees all amps to be over the rated power) watts RMS, and the Kicker CompS 10" and 12" sound really good paired with it.

Isimple Jamlink, you still have to control the music through the phone though.

EDIT: you can use Bluetooth too

No, BOSS is not a brand you want to spend money on. They tend to make low quality products.

This kit is a little more, but it is worlds better than the Boss one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_znGTub0NAJSBX

Also, this kit comes with an 80A fuse. You will want to buy one that is around 40A. You can get one at a local auto parts store, or wherever really. They are abundant.

Here is some OFC stuff from them:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DFSVGGG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_e6FTub07NPNKB

Here is some CCA stuff from them (CCA is not as good as OFC [4AWG CCA can handle less current than 4AWG OFC], but being 4AWG it will work for your system. It is also cheaper):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BPKRAR0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Q8FTub1G8B4P2

Carputers are simplified.

They come with android-specific hardware if you want, and it's specially designed to fit in that small space and run on +12V car power. They have x86 carputer specific android OS's too! A lot of people are starting to build what they want around RasperryPi's.

You can make, or re-use, any hard buttons you want, for any function, including steering wheel controls (assuming you know what you're doing)

Unfortunately, if you want something to be customizable, it can't also be simplified.

https://vk.com/bassotronics_full_bass

I used Save From Net which I just grabbed from the Firefox add-ons. I think its also available for Chrome. Could be wrong.

The mp3 sounds much better than one of the YouTube videos I checked out so there's that.

It's under the post called "part 24" so scroll down a bit.

Replace the foam for $33 right away, see here for details. If there are bigger problems you can send it to JL to refurb.

It could be and hopefully is in protect mode. Didn't know that existed. I have two RF Punch P3D4 12"'s running at 4OHMs off of the amp. The wiring kit is 8 gauge.

Amp.

I may have gotten the bass knob that sits in the front of my car wet, and the light for it wasn't blue like it normally was, but instead just off. The subs actually worked for a second while I was going down the road before I realized the subs weren't working. They kicked in and then I realized that they weren't working and quickly turned the radio off, but couldn't disconnect the wire because I was on the way to work. I drove the car again later during work to get food with the radio off again, and after work I disconnected the power cable. I haven't tried the amp again since then, and that was Saturday afternoon.

What should I do to troubleshoot this? I don't want to turn it on again for fear that I ruin the subs.

Fantastic answer from Tec. Agreed with all. Not much needs to be said, so I'll just post this deal on probably the most popular and well received double-din with CarPlay under your budget.

https://slickdeals.net/f/10740775-pioneer-avh-4200nex-7-motorized-touchscreen-dvd-receiver-60-newegg-gift-card-347-after-150-rebate-free-s-h?v=1&src=SiteSearch

Even if you miss the sale, it goes on and off like every other week. Never much cheaper though.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Pioneer+-+6-1/2%22+2-Way+Car+Speakers+with+Composite+IMPP+Woofer+Cones+%28Pair%29/3438938.p?id=1218402142208&skuId=3438938

2 pairs of those and http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Pioneer+-+50W+x+4+MOSFET+Apple%26%23174%3B+iPod%26%23174%3B-Ready+In-Dash+CD+Deck/4005224.p?id=1218447375402&skuId=4005224

head unit has usb for iphone. If you go to best buy this will run you a little over $300 for parts and install. Very simple and basic.

So I did a little more digging and this is what I found

https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=7341645

apparently the carplay systems works kind of like VNC, the underlying OS on the head unit (which in the case of carplay looks like QNX) facilitates the vnc display and touch interaction, while the iPhone actually runs a second display and outputs that to vnc.

this has answered a few questions and created more.

1. do all the major head units use QNX (pioneer, alpine, car manufacturers etc)
2. does carplay ONLY work with QNX
3. does carplay functionality come with QNX (I assume that QNX is a highly customizable foundation OS that most distributors build their "custom" firmware off of)

Man there's some serious landscape diversity in Arizona. Been a long long time since I've been down that way and that looks like way more green and trees than I remember but I was much further south west. I did my first real mountain stuff over in New Mexico. My little brother and his wife are out in Seattle and I've been real jealous of their camp sights. I seent him a snap of the "mountain" we were on yesterday and I got some Olympic shit in return. A 370ft glacial hill just isn't the same.

Have you head this? And Justice For Jason

Someone remastered it to bring his bass up more. It's subtle, but certainly better than the original.

I'm always happy just to hear that I have helped guide someone and given them some ideas that allow them to reach a goal of building something they really enjoy. That's good enough to me. If you really do feel the need to give back though I would love to have you join my Patreon support group. It's kinda like kickstarter but where you can support content creators. I upload some secret stuff there and it makes it easier for us to connect. More details here: https://www.patreon.com/caraudiofabrication?ty=h . If you don't have the funds its cool. I understand, just keep smashing like buttons. :P

I think 1200 watts is overkill (stock battery probably can't handle it and will constantly blow fuses). You can get away with a 500-600 watt power supply I think. I had a ~150-300 watt in my old civic hooked up to a power strip running a ps2, modded xbox (all games on HDD), VCR and a dvd player (they all hooked to a switch above my sub box) running to an in-dash tv (not connected to power strip). I don't ever remember blowing any fuses with it. A 20" LCD would probably consume about 30 watts per hour.

If you plan on having it on when driving, make sure you have the ps2 mounted in a way that it won't bounce around with the van (disc will either stop working or get scratched). You might be better running a small computer (media center or raspberry pi) and a ps2 emulator instead. It will probably consume less power, plus you still have the option of making it a carputer.

emulator: http://pcsx2.net/

Roms (aka games): http://coolrom.com/roms/ps2/

Edit: I don't know if my estimates are correct. I am just basing them off previous experience from >10 years ago.

There's a lot of ways. Simplest that I think a lot of people use is the RE Box Calculator.

So you have Type R's. According to Alpine they need between .75 and 2.0 cubic feet each. So let's say 3.0cu between them. According to Alpine they take up 0.071cu each, so our internal volume needs to be 3.142cu. General rule of thumb is 12" square of port per cubic foot of volume, meaning we need around 36". Let's make our box... 14" tall and 16" deep. That'd make it 37" long to give us enough volume.

Here's the final specs and board cutouts according to RE. I'd put dollars to donuts if you build that box and put those subs in there it'd be some insane sound.

Try using Handbrake with the iPhone or AppleTV2 preset. That worked for my old Kenwood head unit. It supported the same formats as your head unit but I don't know if it had any limitations like that guide claims yours have.

I personally use Mediamonkey for this, with a library of ~12k tracks.

Mediamonkey is actually an audio player and library management application in the vein of itunes, but I happen to like its leveling.

Download page (ignore the 'offer' to get Gold for free, the freeware version is fine)

Equalizer APO

I just started playing around with this and REW V5 (Room EQ Wizard). If you're really into audio and willing to go the lengths they talk about in the tutorial, you can do some really cool stuff.

I honestly didn't do the full set up like they told me to, I just installed the two programs which work together to some extent, and started playing around with the configuration file. I have yet to master this.

They can come loose if you have to open up the dash often. It's fine for speakers but I wouldn't use them on a head unit. I like solder seal connectors the best.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCNTZ2Z

Thank you so much!! Would something like this hopefully work?Nulaxy Bluetooth Transmitter

This use to be a great reference back in the day. Maybe there is a browser that you can use with flash.. http://www.bcae1.com/

This book is pretty solid for the basics. https://smile.amazon.com/Car-Stereo-Cookbook-TAB-Electronics/dp/0071448470?sa-no-redirect=1

You can't do any of that. Your charger needs a 9v supply, which likely does not exist in your car.

You need a step down transformer like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C3%82-DC-DC-Converter-Supply-Waterproof/dp/B014ZRW60U/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=12v+to+9v+dc+step+down&qid=1626266386&sr=8-19

You should size your fuses at 125% of your load. That's a 2.5A fuse (doesn't exist). I would get a 5A fuse and run a minimum of #14 CU wire.

Liumy is all you need.

You may need something to seal the speaker to the box. I use this stuff, super convenient and easy to use. You just put a layer around the bottom of the speaker around the edge and it helps keep air from seeping out between the speaker and the box.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/Parts-Express-Speaker-Gasketing-Tape/dp/B0002ZPLPM/ref=sr\_1\_2?dchild=1&keywords=Parts+Express+Speaker+Gasketing+Tape&qid=1626104874&sr=8-2

both.

get a trms multimeter such as this

then set your amp gain with a 1khz test tone at 75% volume on your head unit. target your amp speaker output voltage based on your rated output into your speaker ohm load following this table

I love these UY CHAN Upgraded Original TS100 Digital OLED Programmable Pocket-size Smart Mini Outdoor Portable Soldering Iron Station Kit Embedded Interface DC5525 Acceleration Sensors STM32 Chip Fast Heat (BC2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MD12DYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AKK015VZ6G1N31S55RBE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Super small, compact, about 5 seconds to heat up, digital temp input, and not super expensive. This is the one Adam Savage has used for years.

I'd recommend something like this. The sound quality would be hugely superior, it'd be much more dependable and probably more ouput.

https://www.amazon.com/ID12-V-4-D2-Dynamics-Subwoofer/dp/B01C0NP59A

I know that wasn't your question but I've never seen those subs you listed and thats not a good sign. I have a feeling you'd be underwhelmed with them. They probably are a lot less power than they claim and you'd almost for sure get better dependability with a well known brand.

There's lots of options actually. That ID12 would be a great one for you combined with a 250w rms amp. Most people think they need way more power than is actually needed for pretty high output.

However If you're looking for high SPL and want everyone to notice you, theres better options.

I appreciate the help, thank you.

What would I be looking for when comparing speakers to the head unit? For example, the speakers you linked and lets just pretend that I have this random unit i picked from a quick amazon search: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-CDE-172BT-Bluetooth-replacement-CDE-143BT/dp/B07BJMK8FR/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=car+head+unit&qid=1625619988&sr=8-3

What specs should I be comparing between the two? I see the head unit outputs 45W, which seems pretty low compared to the 200W this JVC unit outputs: https://www.amazon.com/JVC-KD-X260BT-Featuring-Bluetooth-iHeartRadio/dp/B07HCLJVCC/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=car+head+unit&qid=1625620116&sr=8-16

But the speakers note power range: 6-55 watts RMS (110 watts peak power), would I be correct in saying that the peak power is referring to both the speakers total, and the first units 45W would be lacking?

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R2-500X1-500-Watt-Amplifier/dp/B07XFNNTDN/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=fosgate+500&qid=1625364044&sr=8-3

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-43CXA6001-Amplifier-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B01LZ01U9X/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=kicker+500&qid=1625364078&sr=8-4

I used to have this exact head unit. I used the following item from Amazon. Hope this helps.

BATIGE USB 3.0 & 3.5mm Car Mount Flush Cable 3.5mm + USB3.0 AUX Extension Dash Panel Waterproof Mount Cable for Car Boat and Motorcycle - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KGMJ5N/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_9DDJDNK60VMM3TMJRHQM

UPDATE: So I got this harness that I saw someone use and it worked perfect. Turns on with my car and turns off with my vehicle the way it should. Unfortunately the aftermarket head unit I bought is jank and cheap af but I honestly just wanted the Bluetooth capabilities.

Thank you everyone so much for the help. The info I got a was a bit over my head but I appreciate everyone trying to help. Now I can listen to Dungeons and Daddies without wearing an ear bud.

Are you asking about your method of connecting them? It will work but a bit sketchy. I would highly recommend using butt connectors instead of heat shrink over bare wire. Like these https://www.amazon.com/AIRIC-Splice-Connectors-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B06XCX7WRV/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=butt+connectors&qid=1625001080&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY6O73I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_8GCQWZ7VQHXRK72DNGF3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is the sub I'm using, the 8 gauge wire I'm using is pretty thick and not boss brand . Im not well versed at car audio yet so excuse me if I sound stupid

I think you should do it all in one go, and if budget is a concern, and you're considering deleting 2 speakers anyway, why not just get 2 6x9 subs and run a 5 channel amp?

Something like this amp and these subs might work, but these are just ideas, not a tailored selection.

super overkill if you use the crimps https://www.amazon.com/Closed-Crimp-Nylon-Connector-Aluminum/dp/B01MUWIBVS

it's metal to metal anyway. at our shop we never once soldered any radio harness connections and never once had a connection problem that wasn't related to some new guy doing a shitty crimp. those caps have to be cut off if properly crimped.

the only time we soldered was splicing in remote start stuff where we were stripping wires without cutting them, no way to crimp that and tape is not to be trusted, ever, in cars.

https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-eXcelon-X802-5-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B07NF9SL8Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Car+Amplifiers&qid=1622285454&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_six_browse-bin%3A7933268011&s=car&sr=1-7&amp...

Is a bit cheaper still in a 5 channel

I'm not understanding what the purpose of the usbc conversion is when the projector has a barrel plug connection for power. If you are hoping that will allow it to negotiate voltage through USB pd or qc3 or similar technology this will absolutely not work. A 12v universal laptop adapter is what you should be looking for. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T53943D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_WW4YVWD4G0NV0XFAEJZP

Something like this with adjustable voltage and a tip that will fit right into the barrel jack on the projector.

I hate how amazon doesn't list any relevant specs for a lot of audio stuff.

However, yes if it pushes out the claimed power then ya itd be a perfect fit. I dont run anything in that power range so I'm not super up to date on my amp models in that category but I'd checkout some other brands as well. Sundown has some very nice amps

https://www.amazon.com/Sundown-Audio-SFB-3000D-3000W-Amplifier/dp/B07XQJJ7X2

In looking into this real quick to find a recommendation for you and to satisy my curiousity I just found this. I've had me an eye on Sundown amps lately. This one would be perfect for your use and is about the same price from a much more reputable company.

I've installed a few of these. It's the cheapest Android auto / carplay headunit I can find. However, its not terrible. It has a semi decent EQ and separate sub controls.

https://www.amazon.com/ATOTO-Android-Navigation-Stereo-Bluetooth/dp/B07GMMY1QV/

You can connect an RCA to 3.5mm directly to the amplifier. Or you could use a 12V Bluetooth Receiver to RCA adapter to the amplifiers. You'll have to connect it to 12V switched power and ground.

$120 USD isn't going to get you anything incredible when it comes to 4-Channel amps, so just get whatever is on Amazon that has solid ratings and does the 50W per channel you need. Even the entry level amps from companies like SKAR and CT Sounds ring in for more than $120.

Micro amps like these from reputable brands are good to keep an eye out for:

https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-M1814-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Motorsports/dp/B07NZWHVWS/ref=sr_1_32?dchild=1&keywords=4+channel+amp&qid=1619631825&sr=8-32

Agreed.

Left rear (HU) > PURPLE > left rear (Amp), etc.

Although, what's the label for the green RCA on the head unit? My guess is the sub only has 1 channel out of the HU, so you can use a Y-splitter Like this and bring the 1 sub head unit plug into the two sub amp ports.

INTO THE RCA CONNECTIONS.

If those RCAs are twisted pair, just cut them and wire the inputs of your LOC directly to the RCA outputs of your LOC. Just pull the LOC out of the picture.

Or something like this would work too. https://www.amazon.com/Jabinco-Speaker-Cable-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07ZKNWBKB/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=rca+speaker+wire&qid=1619364258&sprefix=rca+spaker+wire&sr=8-10

So the new head unit will come with a wiring harness. Then you get an adapter harness for your vehicle. Connect the two and you have a plug-in adapter for your vehicle. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZKSL76H

You don't need to buy new wires. Just buy these. Twist the wires together like you have them, slide a cap over, crimp. Throw a cap on any unused wires too. Once you've got them all capped, throw a zip tie around the base of the caps. Tie them altogether like a bouquet of flowers. Keeps them together and help reduce stress/tugging on the crimps.

What year, make, and model vehicle? Some Nissans don't have a factory ground wire. So you'll just run the black from your new head unit directly to some metal in the dash. Crimp on a small ring terminal and then find a factory bolt/screw or use a self tapping screw to ground your head unit.

You can use standard DJ equipment and just power it using a portable generator.

https://www.amazon.com/Jackery-Portable-Explorer-Generator-Optional/dp/B082TMBYR6/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Jackery&qid=1617302207&sr=8-4