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I got mine on amazon, took 4 or 5 weeks to arrive but worth the wait. Installation was about 10 seconds per side. They're plug and play, just pry out the old unit and plug in the new projector. You can get them here
Whoops just got somewhat excited while posting this it’s 100,000 miles you think I can drop the price a bit more? And yes it looks really clean inside and out https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2298297143549746/ here the link
For context you can see the old fake walnut trim on the top of the glove box for comparison. Also, here is the wrap I used from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Premium-Semi-Gloss-Aluminum-Adhesive/dp/B07X1ZMHMN?th=1&psc=1
Here's a massive 11GB ZIP with a VirtualBox image of Windows XP that includes the WIS 1.0 (1994-1998 900), WIS 3.0 (all SAABs 1999-2010.5), the latest EPC (2010-4), and a working copy of TIS2000 for Tech-II's. It's missing some stuff, but it's better than nothing!
Using this requires VirtualBox 5.1+, as well as the extension pack (both available here.) You also need a computer with virtualization support enabled in the BIOS/UEFI. Once you install VirtualBox, you should be able to double click on the SAAB_soft.ova to import the VM, which will boot straight to the desktop.
Feel free to share and mirror this elsewhere. I can also do some limited technical support if you get really stuck. :)
My bad for the long link. I have Amazon smile and contribute to a charity.
These are cheaper:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JLNR4TZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_XBJCP1G62Z5NDJPE36G9
I had the exact same thing happen... so weird. Anyway, you just need to pop out the assembly that clips into the mirror. Use the adjustment to move your mirror all the way facing out, and use your fingers to unclip the assembly.
I'll try to find the PN I used to replace it! Inexpensive, less than $20
EDIT: /u/radiatorstatic, found it on Amazon for 14.99;
Mirror Glass and ADHESIVE 2003-2011 Saab 9-3 or 2003-2009 Saab 9-5 Passenger Right Side Replacement Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NE49IAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QViRybW8DA0D5
This passenger, but the drivers side is right there as well. The install tips can be found by a quick google search. Took me less than 2 mins!
The model they will be producing for PNE is the electric powered 9-3.
Four new models are in their (NEVS) business plan, as presented last week, containing the electric 9-3, a midsize SUV, a midsize fastback, a midsize crossover, and an urban/compact SUV.
PDF can be obtained here.
In Q3 2017, the new factory in Tianjin will be doing the manufacturing of the 9-3's. Until then, the manufacturing will be done from Trollhättan, Sweden.
It's not mentioned when cars will be made for the EU or US market. I think they'll have their hands full with this order.
First off, I'd do some serious reading. Take a drop by the ECUProject and read some there and get the T8Suite manual and check that out as well. I can not recommend it enough to tune your own car. Not only does it save money, but its a cool learning experience. If you are able to tune or write a map yourself, it opens up your world considerably to try new maps and make your own. The majority of the suites have a "TuneMeUp" function that will autotune your car to whatever you input for power reqs. It makes it pretty dummy proof (I'd assume T8Suite has this function).
I made a T7 guide awhile back that may assist you in just some of the general stuff. I've not played with T8 at all, as I haven't bought anything past 2002 and ATM don't plan on it, but it may give you an idea of how you want to go. https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3spyawblvmocwo/Saab.doc
With handheld tuners and pro tunes you most likely won't get to try too many tunes. If you do, it will cost 100 bucks or more to go from tune to tune. With the T8Suite you could certainly do some damage, but you can learn to do all of this yourself and have some fun while doing it.
I see Alyeksa's beaten me to it, but I'm feeling a lot less polite and gracious than my already low standard. You're getting stupid answers because your question is stupid. Garbage in, garbage out, texaspete.
Think for a moment: what have you really asked for? A "super high res photo" of a "saab logo." Which of half a dozen logos do you want? What do you consider "super high res?" What is a fat head, and perhaps more importantly, what do they consider "super high res?"
...What could we possibly have that Google cannot find?
Here is a link to the SAAB gryphon logo, the last one used by the brand before NEVS introduced the new style. I can only assume this is the one you want. It's approximately 4,000 pixels wide and should be good enough for printing up to 26"
Searching, rendering, saving, uploading, and linking this image for you took exactly 95 seconds. I can render this image up to 100,000,000 pixels wide if you're willing to pay for some time on EC2.
Yeah I got a copy a few months ago. If you're slightly technical, you can get VirtualBox - https://www.virtualbox.org - and then install a test Windows image, legally, from Microsoft.
Follow the instructions here - http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/download-windows-xp-for-free-and-legally-straight-from-microsoft-si/
It's basically a Windows XP computer within your computer that runs in a Window.
You may try this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IP7MV3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I installed an Alpine unit in my '02 Aero Wagon in March...
woah, you have a coupe , never knew saab made one~!
LOL at that price. get the D501C coils off amazon and your good. hes quoting you OEM coil prices plus labor it sounds like https://www.amazon.com/Delco-D501C-Original-Equipment-Ignition/dp/B0016HTBWY
$17 on amazon. There's other versions for iPhone
Fantronics 7mm Android Endoscope OTG Micro USB Endoscope Waterproof Borescopes Inspection Camera with 6 LED and 3.5M Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CL1QUCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OAIDybBV23KXB
You can try a vxdiag tool off Amazon if you want to try doing it yourself,
Beats buying a real tech 2 for $2000
I went with what I think is a Dodge metallic powder coat and it looks pretty bang on, maybe a touch darker, I'll find the name. If you're doing it by spray can, this matches pretty closely
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3UZI58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_Se8zFbVFJT1NC
I was never able to find the exact color to match, I'm sure it can be done if someone really wants to but there are so many silvers that I think close enough is usually okay. I had a bad experience with a Ford metallic silver, too dark and dull.
I use an airbrush for them mostly but use these instead of the brush, lot less mess and can just cover the chips too fill the area more precisely. ... They sell them for auto but much cheaper for the same thing for women's make up!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KV99ND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AnipFb47YCFSM
Try amazon smile to donate to charity automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PH536JG/
^^^I'm ^^^a ^^^bot ^^^and ^^^this ^^^action ^^^was ^^^preformed ^^^automatically.
I will, but I'm going through a move right now. I drive <240mi/day so it's hard to keep it clean. I bought this though, and I Rain-X.
I'm not negligent I swear!
This should help! And it's only $10 after the rebate.
I looked up some 3M glue on Amazon, after googling for like an hour.
Hopefully, the glue will work correctly. Should I take it completely off before I glue it back? Mine is just partially off, and I'm not sure if it can be completely taken off from the rubber lining.
Update: It worked perfectly. I used a paintbrush to apply the glue, although it was a bit messy. I made sure to prep the area with painters tape, as to not damage the paint. Thanks :)
Before starting, double check on removing the entire alternator bracket. I'm pretty sure that is held on by four bolts and will come out without major disassembly. Although it might be next to impossible to get the thing out of the engine bay even it does. As I recall, it's hard enough just getting the alternator out when it's not connected to the bracket.
Getting a broken ez out can be a real PIA. If you're lucky though, you can use a metal punch and hammer to loosen it.
If there is a ridge on the easy out that the punch will seat against, try tapping it at an angle in line the opposite direction the that the ez out turns. If you're lucky it will move. Sometimes a little vibration will loosen it up and you can back it right out.
If there isn't a ridge, try just light tapping right into it. The idea is to create vibration so just use light, repetitive taps. Don't bash it. With any luck, it will loosen up.
And if that doesn't work, look into getting something like this this. http://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Bit-Broken-Extractor-Removal/dp/B00B1E5APO or this https://store.snapon.com/Left-Hand-Fractional-Drill-Bits-Cobalt--Set-Drill-Bit-Left-Hand-Cobalt-5-Bits-P641479.aspx.
They are $143.99 on Amazon
This is the stuff that my mechanic recommends, it worked well for us: http://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Waterproofing-With-PTEF/dp/B00U2JA72U
You will want to make sure that the top is bone dry and has been for 24 hours, and it will take 24 hours or so to dry, and can't get wet, so park your car in a carport or garage. You'll want to wear gloves, paper/tape off your windows...if you drip any on your windows it's a pain to remove, and pretty much impossible to remove if you get it on any painted surfaces (there is still a ghostly drip mark on our rear quarter panel two years later). You can paint it on with a paintbrush or a sponge, which is much easier than spraying it. If you can roll thin cardboard up in your windows, I found that to be really effective in keeping any drips off where they shouldn't go.
Edit: it seems like it wouldn't take long, but it usually took about two hours to do, and you'll want to add another coat (and then maybe a third) after the first looks like it's fully absorbed.
This is the one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09Q5TSVBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't pay that much. It was reduced to £239 when I ordered it, which is still kind of expensive, but I do think it's worth it for me personally.
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Yes, it supports Android Auto and Apple Carplay. Set up was extremely easy.
I use a combination of this tool - https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Clamp-Pliers-Locking-Water/dp/B07C3LYZM7/ref=sr_1_6?crid=JFXMMY6VZ6SL&keywords=euro+clamp+tool&qid=1670273543&sprefix=euro+clamp+tool%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-6
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and an L shaped pick tool to dig around it and loosen the hose.
Hey fellow Michigander! Was looking for a first car and found this baby. What do you think? I’m 20 years old so I have don’t have much knowledge about cars and figured you could help out. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1653783491446836/
I was going to just get a double din that supports apple car play. My wife uses an iphone and it's easy for her to use (less tech support from me). I have an ATOTO in another car my wife likes, so I might go with that again? pretty basic, but if it works it works.
California has R1/R2/R3 controls, and I don't think I've ever seen them run R3 at Donner. They will close the pass sometimes even for R2. I think technically you can run textiles ("socks"), cables, or chains. However, I don't think the 9-3SS can use chains. Socks are super convenient but don't last all that long. I would go for cables, and they are sized for the tire. A 9-3SS with cables is totally fine going over the pass. If you wanna risk a gnarly ticket, put snow tires on the 9-3SS and just tell them it's AWD... they won't know and don't look. But if something goes wrong - even something chains wouldn't have fixed - your liability would be stratospheric.
Something like this is what you're looking for:
https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Chain-Passenger-Traction-Chains/dp/B004BTFPDS?th=1
You might post in r/tahoe for some specific recommendations. Although our '08 wagon is fierce in the snow, we usually take the Suburban because I really hate driving with chains.
Gotcha.
The problem with the clutch hydraulics on the OG9-3 is there is no bleed port from the slave, so it's relatively easy to get air trapped in there.
Many people will advocate propping the clutch pedal down halfway overnight as that will often let it self bleed.
My approach is to buy a 150ml syringe off Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C71C1LH/
and use a long length of hose (like 2') to connect the syringe to the bleeder port on the clutch slave. SLOWLY inject 150ml of brake fluid through the bleeder, That will move most of the air out of the slave to the brake fluid reservoir. Then, refill the syringe and hang it up from the hood etc. with the bleeder port open. Air will slowly float up into the syringe and fluid will slowly trickle down into the slave. Leave it sitting for an hour or three. Works every time.
I heard that this was good, or the other 3M solutions for headlights:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-39073-Restoration-Discoloured-Headlights/dp/B0078IHJ1K
And as far as I know you also need to add a protective layer afterwards so it doesn't happen again. It may be worth checking out a YouTube video on it, searching on here for what others have done or making a new post about it
No reason to skip it - appropriate circlip pliers are affordable:
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The ebay connector is a good idea to solve the issue for good as they all fail. If you want a cheap replacement you can order it from amazon or other parts stores for $20, its the upper tadiator hose.
URO Parts 12787608 Radiator Hose, Upper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0066STLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HR11AZ7TSPD218HDYBJ5
When my 9-3 was on it's last legs the radio was going out (it had the stock dash w/o nav, but had the high end speaker setup), I found out it was an issue with a short in an amplifier or something. Stopped screen from working and couldn't really do anything from the dash, and of course no audio.
Now the solution I used for this was a fiber-optic loopback connector that essentially bypasses or 'removes' some of the sound system, but lets the circuit complete (i guess) so the system will work.
It's a pretty easy job to attempt and it's cheap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UC30RLEpKh0
connector- https://www.amazon.com/RENYIAO-Bypass-Adapter-Mercedes-Porsche/dp/B07PH536JG
Sorry guys here we go!! Supin 2 Prices Car Seat Gap Filler Pad PU Leather Console Side Pocket Organizer and one Cup for Cellphone Wallet Coin Key (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NVM38VF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KS6Z4NXEDRVF3ENXFQAW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
sure, i’m asking if there’s anything special i would need to do it i had somewhere else out them in— pairing them?
Schrader 20159 Clamp-in OE Replacement Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPMS) Sensor 433 MHz - General Motors (GM) - 12825085, 13227143, B121G600F, 12825085 (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JBYUWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5FQHJXYV20X35N94HA2C is what i got btw
I bought two of these keys, had them cut by a locksmith for two different cars, and programmed them to my cars with my Tech2. The price of the keys went up since I bought them, and the locksmith charged me $50 a key to cut them. keys
If your problem occurs on hot days, maybe it’s a wiring issue with the transponder sensor or something else in the counter console. Or the TWICE. This might sound kooky, but have you tried putting a sun shade inside the windshield? Maybe try tenting the ignition switch with some foil so it doesn’t get so hot.
Good luck.
They looked just like these. Same brand I think.
They are SEALIGHT H11 H8 H9 60W 6,000K Xenon White.
Put on a 2008 and my 2011 over a year now. No issues except what I mentioned. I guess the control module sends a pulse to the bulbs when a door is opened and the car not started for about 60 seconds. The LED's pick that pulse up. The light is nice and white, but the housings are maxed out pointing high, the beams don't shoot out nearly as far as they need to. It's a safety issue IMO.
I've considered shimming them but never got around to it. Some years you could adjust too high, but on my 2011 it could deff be higher without blinding anyone else on the road...The adjustment only goes soo high though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANIECRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is what I bought and the bass on them is really nice. You’ll also need to cut the speaker wire and crimp on quick disconnects. You can find them at any auto store
Thanks! I try to keep it looking good.
HERE is the one I bought. It's no longer carried by amazon, but there are plenty of similar ones. It mounts to the dash with double-stick tape. I've not removed it in 6 years so hopefully it doesn't damage the dash when I have to remove it...
Corrosion Technologies CorrosionX Aviation 84004 (1 Gallon) – Ultra-Thin Film Aviation Grade, Military Performance Requirement Qualified Corrosion Prevention and Control Compound | MIL-PRF-81309H https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IO13Z6I/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_6M1DC256K0NC7AT05TYG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I can tell you exactly what's wrong. It's a rubber bushing that's under your hood. They constantly fall apart. I've replaced everyone in the 595s I have. $30 part on Amazon.
BushingFix SB1Kit - Saab 9-5 Replacement Bushing for Automatic Transmission Shift Cables - Easy Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JV3PG8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_J72X8X4VM1YVWM4S833V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If the aux works, get this; https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ER8MWM05M13M07MH8YYM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It allows me to switch tracks on Spotify and answer phone calls.
I do think you're right - I've read of people have problems finding them. I'm just not sure how to get it out in one piece, and then what do I do with it? My only convertible is a Viggen. Maybe I should just try and get it out and go from there.... I think something like this is what a pro would use:
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Cord-Auto-Glass-Cutting/dp/B00D3826UI
But, I've no idea the specifics. :D And, I don't wanna pay $60 for a whole reel of cord I'll never use... although doing it in the name of SCIENCE is appealing. :D
This is what I have. A lower end model would probably achieve the same effect but I can't say for certain. However using thay with a micro usb on the go cable works great!
parking lot to the top right of the "A" pin
edit: that "smalled" is going to annoy me
Ad with photo gallery: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/195485128217818/
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This car is in exceptional condition. You would be hard pressed to find a cleaner 2.8L Aero.
I have a 2003 9-3 convertible. I use this cover: iCarCover 30-Layers Custom-Fit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QHD8QF7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s not specific to my car but it’s the right size and works very well
I fixed mine like this! Bought this part from digikey https://www.digikey.com/short/z71c1m4h, and a replacement plastic case like this one: Dudely Key Fob Keyless Entry Smart Remote Shell Case with Uncut Blade Fit for Saab 9-3 93 2003-2009 Key Fob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PFP9V91/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_33EMTQ854FKDEYY5RSE1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Removed the other button and soldered the new one one. If it’s your first time watch some videos on surface mount soldering, maybe do a little practice with a solder braid for cleaning up the pads. Make sure you have some flux handy. Good luck!
So I was looking at other saab models and I wanted to get your opinion on the the saab 43711. I stumbled upon a listing for it and I wanted to get your input on the car. Here's the listing: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2534551446807628/
I would just figure out what diameter your piping is at that point (looks like possibly 2.5" based on that diagram), and any exhaust shop will be able to weld in a universal resonator. I just had a shop put this 2.5" universal model on my 08 aero this summer.
For the lights strip, it took forever to figure out which ones would work the best. I think I ended up finding them at lowes or advanced auto parts. They just need to have wires connected at one end, be weatherproof, be able to cut the strip to the length of the side marker, and have adhesive tape on the back to stick to the inside of the marker. Something like this.
Marine Flexible LED Light Strip 12V 4ft WHITE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQLNHSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H60R5EFXZAS1TJ01KKVJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The hard part is getting the strip inside the marker. So I cut the top back part off with a very thin blade to make an opening. That enabled me to get the lights in and position them and have them stick to the back of the marker. The lights were in, just adhesive the back top part of the marker back together. Make sure that is solid and water can’t get in.
Take the end of the wire from the light that is sticking out the light, snd splice it and attach a cap like the ones used in this picture.
Now you have a connection for the socket of where normally the bulb will go. You will have to stuff some of the wiring inside the side marker. But once you get that connected, and the socket is inside the marker with the gasket on. You are done. Just plug the other end of the socket into the car.
I recently imported a car from Montreal. First make sure the EPA sticker say that it conforms to US regulations. Secondly, you need to get a letter of compliance from SAAB by calling their office in Canada. They'll send it to you via email which may take a couple of days. That letter will state whether it fully complies with FMVSS or if anything is missing. Refer to the bulletin points here starting from the bottom of the first page and onward. This PDF also includes SAAB's phone number at the bottom pages. The first point involving speedometer and headlights isn't an issue for importing however you may need to replace it for your state's inspection. The second two can be resolved. I bought an aftermarket TPMS from Amazon and had Canadian Tire install it. I provided the invoice at the port of entry with the letter of compliance.
If you're feeling overwhelmed, don't. It may seem complicated but it's totally doable.
Use this on my 2007 Saab 9-5;
Torque Pro Android OBD Bluetooth Fault Scanner/Diagnostic Code Reader https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AC7I7BO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YQF4WJ81PJVBYXZVFVBN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Be aware that the ODB port stays live when you turn the car off, so don't leave it plugged in overnight. I use it with Torque Pro.
Im having the beginning of the same problem! I ordered these silicone hoses to replace them. You might also want to get some 2mm and 3mm for the miscellaneous smaller hoses around the bay.
Autobahn88 High Performance Silicone Vacuum Hose, ID 0.16" (4mm), OD 0.35" (9mm), 15 Feet per reel (4.5 Meter), Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTXW1TS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_7BHKS7D0BJ2W79XPJJ3P
Here is a guide on the common ones to replace!
Sure..I have 3 off these and good luck so far.
SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable … https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_glt_fabc_2211BJQ5ZNK0A54C8B4T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just be sure the multimeter has a DC amp and a milliamp mode - most do. 10a should be fine. There are tons of cheap no-name varieties on Amazon. I have had good luck with Innova products, and would probably encourage spending the extra... this one is is $30 and does everything you need it to:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7575-Radio-Removal-Tool/dp/B0002SRBJ8
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These slide in to those four holes in the radio, unlatching it and it should slide right out. Usually when you buy a new head-unit they come with the packaging.
Intercooler
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28-5x8x3-5-Universal-Front-Mount-Bar-Plate-Intercooler-/390271548466
Hoses
https://www.amazon.com/Ronteix-Universal-Performance-Coupler-Silicone/dp/B071XFVSZP
It wasn't perfect to install but she definitely gets the job done and keeps those temps steady and nice
Here is the link to the bypass I purchased. No affiliate. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PDJPXCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Please excuse the mess as well haha
amazon, it help with noise but does not eliminate it completely. I think before I installed the rack would wistle at ~40mph, now it wistles at ~70 with no skis. With skis it'll wistle at ~50 or so. It helps I guess, looks good too.
Two pin waterproof connector, can be replaced out fairly easy if you've got enough slack in the wire to connect to a new unit (hard to tell from the picture), link below is an example, have a look in auto factors/parts shop or on eBay to get them, they are very expensive from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Diageng-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Marine/dp/B00BYNKUSE
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I bought Raggtopp from Amazon. Then I bought the 'horse hair' brush along with it. Worked for me. Read the instructions though, the vinyl on the car needs to be completely wet before applying. I don't remember paying that much for it but that was 2 years ago.
https://www.amazon.com/Raggtopp-Convertible-Top-Care-Kit/dp/B0002KKIVO
Well for troubleshooting purposes, you could consider buying replacement speakers for the front dashboard. If they don’t solve the issue, at least they could be your speakers once you do find the source of the issue. I think these would fit: JBL GX302 3-1/2" 75W 2-Way GX Series Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8MNNT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mWVIFb8XQ43XP
Oh, gotcha. You have the "malfunction" warning?
You probably can "remove" the module with Tech2 so it stops reporting, but another approach might be to physically remove the box from the car, and then loop the optical cables together so the audio system still works. You'd need a bypass loop like this:
I never use a brush, i use a really soft sponge, otherwise i could scratch the leather. And than I just let my balm sit until the leather absorbed it.
Try it again but without wiping it off. Just apply a really thin coating and wait until it disappears by itself. Usually overnight And as I said earlier, I don't use just the oil. Because just oil is less practical to work with as it does not stcik to the leather. So whilst my leather balm is mainly jojoba oil, when applied it will stay on the seat til the leather basically sucked it up. And Saab in general has relatively thick and a bit firm leather. Also, maybe something was spilled on your seat and dryed up and now it has a coke coating or something on it I dunno.
I use something similar to this:https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B01LFMGFGY/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=leather%2Bbalm&qid=1599076478&sr=8-5&th=1
Seems like the only type of the "german" leather balm avaiable in the US. Although mine has different ingredients.
Is This the right kit I wanted to make sure there isn't a "newer" version. Thanks for the help again.
They are neo-wedge T5. You can get LED replacements but (at least in my 9-5) they don't do as good as the incandescents. Here's a pack of 10 from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Factory-Clock-Light-Bulb/dp/B00F68FNSA
Here is the German source: https://www.chromdesign.de/de/windschotts/saab/ I'd look for a used one in the US. Here is one on Amazon: Aperta Wind Deflector fits Saab 9-3 YS3F | Black Tailor Made Windblocker | Draft-Stop Wind Stop Saab Convertible by Aperta https://www.amazon.com/Aperta-winddeflector-Windblocker-Windstopper-Convertible/dp/B06XNQYLVP/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Aperta+Wind+Deflector+fits+Saab+9-3+YS3F+%7C+Black+Tailor+Made+Windblocker+%7C+Draft-Stop+Wind+Stop+Saab+Convertible+by+Aperta&qi...
Megan racing coilovers are cheap. Dunno how good they are though.
Here's a cheap set if you're willing to gamble on a return. Otherwise a new set is like $100-150 more.
If you're in the US you can get some coilovers cheaper than $1200 for sure. I went with Koni yellows and H&R Lowering springs myself though.
This was an option I was looking at, but don't think it's a great idea because the fuel pump assembly was already switched out by the previous owner with an aftermarket (this one in particular https://www.amazon.ca/Saab-06-09-Aero-Level-Sender/dp/B00BH9NCLC). If I just replaced the pump, I wouldn't trust the rest of the parts in the assembly. I'm getting a P0193 pretty often and occasionally a P0089. Talked to Brian from Vtuner as well and he says the fuel pressure from my logs looks funky at times. Thoughts?
I just use a little of this stuff on a shop towel every month or so, keeps my headlights looking as crystal clear as possible. I definitely have some damage on the inside of the lens, but its a very noticeable improvement.
LASFIT Dual Color 1157 2057 2357... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SZRCVH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Only 1 resistor per side. Any resistor will work. The rest of the stuff I got while ago and the links dont work anymore
If you are swapping the circuit board over, I used these on amazon. Set of 2 plastics and uncut key for $15.
You can try picking up a vxdiag I think they're called, around $120 on amazon, it comes with software that allows a computer to emulate a tech 2. So if you have a laptop you can try that (or a desktop if you want to drag it out to your car)
Here's a link to it on Amazon.ca, make sure you get the GM/OPEL one, you can also pay more for a wireless one but might as well save a few bucks
VXDIAG VCX Nano GDS2 and Tech2Win Diagnostic Programming System for GM/Opel https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074365Q6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wNauBbBYF7ED8
Try the vxdiag from Amazon. It's $125, it's a dongle that interfaces between a computer and software that emulates a tech2
There's also one that's wireless, but obviously costs extra
Right, well the reason I ask, is if you've seen the guide on... I wanna say twinsaabs, the front main seal job is quite tricky. It's interesting compared to the 9-5, which I believe is just removing the harmonic balancer, and a large snap ring.
On the 900, it's a whole piece- handful of bolts, harmonic balancer, plus the main bolt all come off to do the job. The Fel-Pro kit I got for the front main seal comes with the main seal, oil pump gasket, and two gaskets for passages on the whole cover piece.
Here's a link to the kit I needed for my car, but I'm not sure if this applies to yours (I have a 91 turbo, and going by the cps kit you have, yours is NA) and I don't have my Haynes handy. I specifically bought the fel-pro because I did not see the same gaskets visually included with other kits, and opinion of importance of changing the gaskets varied from person to person.
I got an SID ribbon, which I put in maybe 2 years ago, and it's been fine. A lot of people online recommend sticking in a little strip of rubber band behind the ribbon when reassembling to keep it squished in place.
I use a Tetrax X way and it just fits my vents. the chinese knock off version of the same product does not. https://smile.amazon.com/Tetrax-T10200-Smartphone-Dashboard-Magnetic/dp/B00HNWFIB4/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1517259673&sr=1-1&keywords=tetrax they seem to have updated it since I bought it!
I think the GM-LL-A-025 spec is technically obsolete and replaced by the Dexos requirements. Anyways, I source my 0w40 Mobil 1 Euro car formula on Amazon Prime.
$22.88 for a 5 quart jug. My 200,000 mile 2.0t seems to like the oil just fine, although I've never ran an oil analysis.
The first time I did my oil change I took the filter cap off with a pair channel-locks. The next time, I bought the oil filter cap socket and it was much easier. I didn't know the size, I just bought it online, as it was just a light-duty one meant for oil filters. HERE is the one I got, it does show the size.
Good to know regular ramps may not work. I used my DIY ramps, which are real long with a gradual step, but kind of a pain to use.
The cap is just plastic, it shouldn't need to be cranked on hard at all, since it uses an o-ring for the seal.
Out of all the vehicles I've changed oil on, after having the socket, this is one of the easier ones. There are much worse out there.
Does yours say "General Motors" on your Bluetooth menu on your phone? Passcode should be simple like 0000 or 1234 IIRC. If not, then you might have to hit the green button and say "Pairing" and it might spit out a code, I can't remember. I'm pairing mine with my LG V10 and it works fine for phone, just no music. I didn't think they changed much between the '07 and '09 models. My handsfree works really well in my Saab except for the fact that when I pick up I usually have to wait a second for it to connect, so I hit the green button then wait a second then talk.
I've really been considering updating my head unit to a Joying chinesium thingamajig. If I do I'll probably post on here to ask about adapters and shit because I have no idea what I'm doing. I'm happy with the rest of my '09 but I'd really like A2DP for bluetooth music from my phone.
EDIT: If it would help, I can de-pair my phone and record a video of me pairing it up again, just let me know.
EDIT2: Just did it, you gotta go thru your bluetooth menu and do what I did, it wouldn't let me record and pair at the same time but hopefully the video gives you the gist of it. Apparently the owner before me had an iPhone so I had to clear that out. It will give you the code to connect on your phone, hopefully.
I used to use the Purolator Pureone Yellow filters off a 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser Turbo. Then they stopped making them with a grippy texture.
Just picked up 6 of these from eBay for $28 shipped. They fit 9-5's offer some extra oil capacity and filtration media and for $5.50 it's a solid deal.
I actually got the tips from the shop I had the muffler delete done at. Not sure if these are the exact ones but they look pretty darn close. https://www.amazon.com/Magnaflow-35148-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust/dp/B000COWYTO
I just called my local Best Buy, they set me up with a harness and din adapter no issues. Keep in mind when changing your receiver you will lose likely the door mounted speakers and your steering wheel controls. I didn't mind as I got a way better set up for a little over $200 Here's what I got and I am VERY happy with it BOSS AUDIO 616UAB Single-DIN MECH-LESS Multimedia Player (no CD or DVD), Receiver, Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CG8N0H8/ ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pb6MybFVX6G0F And this woofer
Rockville RTB12A 12" 600w Powered Subwoofer Bass Tube + Bass Remote+Amp Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PYXBZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hc6Myb37Q7HC0
EJ 8.2 feet (2.5 meters) gm carbon-fiber front bumper spoiler lip, Roof Spoiler, body kit clip stickers, 100% waterproof protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5QLD4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QLPAyb40YQZBD
YMMV, but I had nothing but trouble with every bulb that wasn't a Hella bulb,. I would buy the brighter more expensive ones and they all died within 6 months. Amazon has Hellas for $4.55 each. https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H7-Halogen-Standard-Bulb/dp/B00IKMCF58/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479172011&sr=8-1&keywords=hella+h7+bulb
Its definitely a weird size, I measured a spare Harmon Kardon speaker I have and the cone itself is 2.5" but the mounting points are about 3.5" or 3.75".
As for the connector, so you have the aftermarket speaker already? Personally I'd be tempted just to solder it in place unless you plan on removing it all that often. Otherwise I'd take it to a local car audio store or even home depot and get something like this. They're usually pretty universal but just make sure its the right size for the speaker. Then just cut off the stock connector and replace with the crimp connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/100PCS-Insulated-Connector-Electrical-Terminal/dp/B00FZK932G
If you can get your hands on a stock speaker and still want to go aftermarket the green connector on the speaker itself is just riveted on and can be drilled out and soldered onto an aftermarket speaker. I did that in my 9-3 and it worked like a charm. Hope that helps...
This is the closest I've seen. This doesn't actually replace the antenna, it's a cover that goes over the original one. That way you don't have to pull out the original and worry about it leaking or something. Hope this helps!
Not sure about the button part. I have the same model. I haven't found a way to pair my phone other than one of those radio tuners. I've had success with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098Y90PK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can talk hands free and it comes through your car speakers. Good luck!
I forget where I found the post (here or like saabcentral forums) but theres a Ford or GM fluid you can get thats equal to OEM stuff without the hefty price.
Here it is off Amazon, sorry if you're not US and this doesnt help!
This picture is very flattering. At the moment the trim is faded a little bit.
I've had good luck woth Mothers brand "back to black" you have to reapply every 3-6 months though
Edit: Mothers 06112 Back-to-Black Plastic and Trim Restorer - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NrbLxb0MWADR6
EDIT: I retract the following recommendation. I applied it to some trim pieces after a thorough cleaning and degreasing and it is now starting to flake and peel off. It looks like a very very thin hard rubber coating. It seems to be holding up okay on the textured trim pieces, but on smoother plastic it's flaking off after less than a month. Best bet would be to use a trim paint like Duplicolor or SEM trim paint and take time to prep things well.
~~Check this stuff out:~~
~~Bondo 800~~
~~I used it on my 9-3 trim and they look brand new again. Masking its very important, and do it on a COMPLETELY dry car. Even small amounts of water behind the trim make masking iffy and the dye bleed out. Found that one out the hard way.~~
Of course, here you go. Saab 93 Headlights
When I purchased them they were $270, this was in 2014, so they've gone up a little. Either way, good luck. It worked well for me.
I suspect the app is the less of your worries - just find one that works on your OS. The hardware is the bigger concern. I bought this one a few months ago:
... and it's been A-OK in both my '04 Saab 9-3 and my '05 Subaru Outback, running the free version of Torque on a Note 3/Android. The whole reason I bought it in the first place is that I had a check engine light for no obvious reason on the Saab, and neither of the first two auto parts stores I took it to were able to even get a code from it when they gave me the 'free OBDII read' try - both got connection errors. (So I ended up paying a garage to do some diagnostics, and it turned out the actual error was a single cylinder misfire - no big deal, and not worth the $ it cost to find it out.) Point being, the BAFX never had a problem getting a read on the Saab where two different models of wired readers used by professional auto parts stores failed.
Haha it's a super easy job! just make sure you have the radio removal keys so you don't damage the dash, and buy a wiring harness and antenna adapter. You'll have to solder the wires together, matching up the colors (that's the hardest part, getting the solder joints secure) :)
Buy this:
Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_vn3HwbDBPRRM0
In the mean time, go to your local auto parts store and get the codes read.
Full synthetic every 3k, premium gas, pcv update. If your vacuum lines show any aging or are cracked, replace them all. Don't forget to check your spark plugs.
BTW every Saab after 98 has a turbo. For 9-5s of that year they are either base (2.3t), SE (3.0t), or aero. Sedan, or wagon.