What are /r/volt's favorite Products & Services?

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Automotive engineer who works on wiring harnesses here

All wire should be covered with something to protect it from vibrations. Cloth tessa tape can be used if all surfaces are smooth and no vibration is really expected inside of the cabin. All edges should always be avoided, but if there's going to be contact to anything, corrugated tube should be used since that'll actually protect the wires. Electrical tape on its own isn't really considered protection because of how easy it can fall apart. Anything unfused, should at the very least be covered in corr tube and have no exposed insulation showing except for a short distance at the connection point.

You can see this on all of the oem harnesses where they're applying corr tube everywhere back there

It's super easy if you have an Android device. Buy an ELM327 Bluetooth ODB-2 tool from Amazon, and then use the MyVoltLifetime app on the Play Store. Simple! I did it right after pulling out of the dealership with my 2013 (which was showing 55mpg with 42,000 lifetime miles).

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thunkable.android.myvoltapp.MyVoltLifetime

For getting rid of the smell, as others have said, most car repair places can open up the system and flush it out the evaporator.

To prevent it in the future, either have the dealer enable the "afterblow" feature, or buy a cheap bluetooth OBDII reader and use the MyVoltAfterblow app to enable it yourself.

The 2015 Volt probably did not include a cabin air filter. It's located behind the glovebox. It's extremely easy to install, I think you can get it for $10 on amazon. IMO it's a good thing to get, you breathe cleaner air and it's likely to slightly improve the efficiency/longevity of your HVAC system. This filter fits the Gen1 Volt. Here's a video showing installation.

As for the engine air filter, that's included with the car but it's a scheduled maintenance item so your dealer should be taking care of it. If you want, follow the instructions in the manual or search youtube, it's extremely easy to open up the engine air filter compartment; you'll want to take it out, shake the dust/dirt off of it, and replace it only if it stays dirty.

Brake pads should last the life of the vehicle. There's a guy on voltstats.net with >400,000mi and I believe he said he's still on the original pads.

Tires should be rotated every 7500mi if you're not already swapping winter tires. Your post is very vague and "tires" is a very broad area of maintenance, so you might want to do some google searches about tire wear and which tires to buy, etc. FYI in the Volt you should keep your tires inflated to at least 38 PSI, some people ride with the low 40's but 38 is sufficient. Inflating your tires more will get you more EV range/better MPG. The stock tires are definitely known to be fairly crappy on account of being low-rolling-resistance tires, you could replace them with regular tires or with performance summer tires, to get better traction, but you'll lose a good bit of EV range/MPG in exchange.

There is also this option: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NCGFNB0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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It is a direct drop in replacement to the existing bulb. Requires no modification. Takes maybe 2 minutes to install. It is the same color temperature as the rest of the LEDs already in the interior. It is substantially brighter than the factory bulb. Lights up the entire cargo area and several feet around the back of the car with the trunk lid is open all the way.

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I think this bulb is also the same one as the license plate lights, however I would not recommend this bulb in that spot. It is FAR to bright for that purpose! You would be blinding everyone behind you.

In the US we can get a well reviewed level 1/level 2 charger for $200.

Megear Level 1-2 EV Charger(100-240V,16A) Portable EVSE Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station(NEMA6-20 with Adapter for NEMA5-15) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EKWVHZEP5AWNWHM79KA9

I used these in my 13 and wife’s 14.

JDM ASTAR Super Bright AX-2835 Chipsets 3056 3156 3057 3157 LED Bulbs ,Xenon White (Only used for backup reverse lights) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G2TV7OG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8B06C15378JFDPBPBT35?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It happens in lots of cars and the ac drain doesn't even need to be clogged. The evaporator in the dash remains wet with moisture from the air after shutting down the car with the ac running. I way to prevent this is to turn off the ac 5 min or so before you get home and let the cabin fan dry it out before you shut the car down.

Once it's already smelly they make cans of spray foam cleaner you spray up from the drain hole underneath the car. Most mechanic shops will do it for around $100-150. It's about $14 for a can of the stuff on Amazon but you should be comfortable jacking up and blocking you car to do it. The drain location on the volt is a little tricky to get to as well. It's behind a bracket in the middle of the car just to the passenger side. Just follow the dripping water.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_J852P46S26ZBK074Y8XQ

It has a 120 plug, but people have taken it apart and verified that the internals are a dual voltage Clipper Creek. I have used mine on 240 with one of these and can confirm that it does indeed work. You don't get the full speed that the car is capable of out of it, but it is twice as fast as 120.

For the same price, you can get 10 gauge wire from Amazon. Keep in mind longer cables increase resistance and also if your outlet is loose that too will increase resistance. More resistance = heat.

Spending a little extra to protect some of your most expensive assets is a no-brainer for me.

$50 for 25ft of 10/3. https://www.amazon.com/Foot-Lighted-Outdoor-Extension-Cord/dp/B078KFMGP4/

I did a 35 day ~8000 mile road trip last year after a company I worked for shut down. My actual trip was longer than shown because halfway through I had to come back home for an emergency, then start off again.

https://roadtrippers.com/map?a2=t%213070626&lat=38.27269&lng=-110.39063&utm_campaign=trip&utm_medium=share&utm_source=copy&z=5

I mostly stayed in national and state parks.

Enjoy your trip and make the most of it! My trip was the best vacation I've ever taken in my life.

Don't reuse passwords anywhere and breaches like this won't matter at all.

When your password is something like Bx6NTv,qjzToMV47gudQgTWBwKN3b&, and you ONLY use it on gm-volt.com because you use a password manager like 1Password, then the only cost of a breach like this is that you need to reset your password.

I went with these on amazon. They are plug and play with no messages and they are much better than the original bulbs. I didn't have to drill any holes in the bulb caps as I was able to just put all if it in there. 100% recommend and very easy to do. You have to lift the air filter on the passenger side but that just gets pulled up. Overall it is very easy to do.

If you're not dead-set on a connected charger, you could get something like this one that actually rated/designed to do both 120 and 240 for a lot cheaper. I have basically the same one that I keep in my car.

This

Lectron EV Charger Nozzle Holster Dock and J-Hook Combination for J1772 Connector https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FC9M4YF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KM5HZXSW4XC3M6TTPWPZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have an aftermarket charging cable because Carvana originally told me the car would arrive without one. It arrived with the original charging cord tucked in the side compartment in the rear, and you're right that one doesn't have a cap. Mine was absolutely filthy so I'm sure the previous owner was charging outside.

This is the one I purchased:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

It's been working great for the last 2 months I've had it. I like the cord keeper kit with wall cap for safe keeping too. You can buy that kit separately if that's what you'd like.

I have 3 of the following for our cars. Got it before the Volt and haven't had to use it for the Volt yet and definitely overkill for it, but useful to have when other people need jumps. I was able to start big v8 engines with it 20+ times before even thinking about needing to re-charge it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0829FTQVF

The first thing you should do is get a good USB cable; one that can't handle the power and data throughput, even if it does meet the USB 3 standards, won't work consistently with AA.

Get yourself this pack of Anker cables - I had a lot of issues, then in just switching to these, it solved 95% of my issues.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G5WSK2/

Time shouldn't have anything to do with it; my car's clock is off by a couple of minutes sometimes and it still works just fine.

For our bed, we bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MH1HW8Q/ Since the volt mattress was so expensive we decided to go with this option For our windows, we went to Home Depot/Lowes and bought a thin sheet of styrofoam insulation, the stuff less than 1 inch thick with a reflective side. We traced our windows, cut it out, taped the sides so foam didn't go everywhere, and then glued black fabric from Walmart over the foam so it looked very discreet despite fully keeping light and heat of of the car I linked a big post I made in the past in this comment about our trip to Yellowstone while we camped in my volt https://www.reddit.com/r/volt/comments/haa4fb/-/fv1lzh5

I've seen a 10 gauge 120V 50ft cord on Amazon for I think $60-70. That's what you want.

Edit: Better yet, go to your local Lowe's/Home Despot/etc. and get by-the-foot 10/3 SJOOW or SOOW cable in whatever length you need (but don't get more than the distance you need to plug in with, more length in a wire = more resistance), and pair it with these good mechanical connectors: male plug and female connector.

You can also 3D print a similar one from this Thingiverse post or buy a 3D printed one on Amazon, but I would advocate for the one I linked instead. It's injection molded and will stand up to much more abuse (particularly water).

Edit: Actually the Amazon one I just linked is injection molded too, but whatever. You get the idea.

Thanks for the info. So the $169 EVExtend kit is only a wiring kit and requires in inverter to be connected to it, correct? It looks like a very clean solution, but for $140 you can buy a 1500W inverter with wiring kit off Amazon. Are there other features to the EVExtend or other things I should consider?

Based on many positive reviews on the GM-Volt forum, I just picked up the Pirelli CintuRato P7 for $110 each on Amazon. TireRack gave the tire a great review (performs better than the Michelin MXV4 in most tests) and other Volt owners have been happy with the performance. I wanted a tire that had similar low rolling resistance to the stock Goodyears but also had good rain performance. The Pirellis seem to fit the bill, plus cost less than the other tires I was considering.

Ugh. Mine died on me and I just ended up buying a cheap replacement. Extra frustrating because it takes a while for it to pay for itself, even at $200... I've since sold my volt but still have the third party cable as the new owner didn't need it. It was the very cheapest on amazon (it is UL certified) so I fully understand if you're reluctant, but PM me if you're interested in buying for very cheap ($50). This was the amazon listing: evCHARGEsolutions.com Electric Vehicle Charger Portable EVSE - USA Level 1 J1772 110V 25' Residential Station for EV Charging https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERTBKY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QfzpBbNS7S586

I did leave it outside, plugged into an extension cord for all 18 of those months. It's been completely fine, just suggesting an easy solution.

I ordered this from Amazon. Genuine GM 20993998 Radiator Air Deflector Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUFJX0W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_msTEBbQ6Z7F12

It's an OEM part and probably an inch or so shorter than the one it comes on the car from the factory. Double check that this fits the 2015, mines a 2012.

I replaced mine myself and contrary to some people's statements on here mine was getting torn apart by dragging every day and it was starting to work the screws holding it on loose.

Unfortunately mine still drags a little after the replacement but now doesn't seem to be doing as much damage. Alternatively you can pull your original one off, tape a line and cut 1" to 1.5" inches off the bottom edge. It's soft enough to cut with heavy duty scissors.

I would run it by the friendliest Chevrolet dealer you have nearby before you do anything else. Best case they replace it for free. Worst case they give you an expensive estimate that will make you feel better about doing it yourself.

Behind the rear bumper are flaps in the chassis to help with pressure when driving, possibly there. Additionally they could have chewed a body plug.

I have mice in my kitchen right now and the best trap I’ve used is this one. In fact caught one about an hour ago.

Catcha 2 Piece Humane Smart Mouse Trap Live Catch and Release Rodents, Safe Around Children and Pets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKZMWF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U3IhFbMVXNRY1

Does the conduit run continuously from the garage back to the main service panel?

Or is the conduit only within the garage area and the remaining section open space (e.g. basement ceiling) back to the main service panel?

If you have continuous conduit with a minimum size of 3/4-inch my guidance is to pull 6AWG THHN/THWN-2 conductors to the garage. This is a heavier gauge wire than what your gen2 Volt can take advantage of, but it provides significant future-proof for only nominally higher material costs and zero extra labor. Namely, it would allow you to go all the way up to a 60A circuit (48A continuous charging), which is currently the highest that EV manufacturers are shipping (e.g. Tesla, 11.5kw).

If you're not planning on taking your EVSE on a road trip (perhaps taking a smaller charge cord instead) then I might suggest a direct-wire EVSE for the garage. The reason for this is that it takes one fewer wire (hot-hot-ground), which reduces costs a bit depending on the distance to the main service panel. Since you have conduit, it's trivial for you or a future homeowner to pull that extra wire if repurposing the outlet.

If you want to keep things more portable then install a NEMA 14-50 receptacle and include that extra wire (hot-hot-neutral-ground) now, along with matching plug on the EVSE. My guidance is to use an industrial receptacle, such as this Hubbell HBL9450A, rather than the budget consumer grade that electrician carries in the truck. High amperage continuous charging is worth the extra quality in my opinion.

Your electrician should understand all the above, but feel free to reach out with any questions.

It's described in the other posts in this thread, but you use an OBDII Bluetooth adapter and reset it using an Android phone with the MyVoltLifetime app.

Average is 12k miles per year. So you're looking at a 4 year old car with about 5.5 years worth of miles on it. If the fair price for the car with average miles is $15k, then you should be paying less for a car with more miles on it.

You'll have to do your research on a site like https://www.kbb.com/ to see what this car is worth in your area, and then negotiate towards that price.

Seller: Buy this car for 15k You: Well, I don't know. You: It's got a few extra miles on it. You: How about 14k. Seller: I got a lot tied up in it. Seller: What about 14,500? You: Sold.

Or something like that.

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/negotiate-effectively/index.htm

Hmm, this CR article says it does: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2015/01/big-strides-in-2016-chevrolet-volt-aren-t-electric-breakthroughs/index.htm

Even if not, I'd likely be fine using the seatbelt in the middle seat; I've read studies that the seatbelt might actually work just a bit better.

Get an OBD2 reader.

Get and buy the battery cell viewer part: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.MyGreenVolt

And post your cell voltage differences!

Did the software updates (recalls) done on that car?

Maybe you should do that (or a dealer/hacker).

Mirrors need to be adjusted properly but the visibility is generally poor. The A pillars are giant and hide a lot but you do start to get used to it.

Yeah, I live in Texas so winter won't be as much of an issue. I'm thinking of buying one of these things to measure how much my car uses:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDLBGQT/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1

However that one is 15A and won't work for the level 2 charging I currently set my car at. I'd need to find one rated at 20A.

Someone also pointed out that the Volt will use electricity to cool the battery and with it being around 90F here that's definitely happening a lot even with my car in the garage. That extra electricity pull isn't counted by the car when it's calculating how much energy is being used either. You really need a meter to get good accurate numbers.

Yes that is correct. I have an iPhone and used OBD Fusion and this

https://www.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC OBDII dongle.

The OBD MX+ is apparently the gold standard OBDII dongle for volts as it has the correct pins to communicate with the SWCAN bus on GM vehicles and works well with the mygreenvolt app

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=obd2+scanner+bluetooth&qid=1627394834&sr=8-8

The battery will still hold a charge regardless of how much isolation is lost. I think what he meant is that it just won't charge using the EVSE. As for your roadtrip, have him print you out the screen under HPCM2 with the isolation resistance value and as long as you have 75kOhm or more you will be fine. Or just have him write down what it says. Also, put it in mountain mode before your trip, it's the safest way to drive these volts in case there are any weak cells.

I have this… what’s nice is it doubles as a portable power unit for when I’m doing stuff like waxing with a buffer.

I have not used it on my volt, my battery is approaching 5 years old, so I’ll be replacing it with an agm odyssey battery when the time comes. Are they expensive? Yes! But they also come with a 10 year warranty.

Schumacher Rechargeable AGM Jump Starter for Gas Diesel Vehicles - 1200 Amps with Air Compressor and AC, 12V DC, USB Power Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07892JQ1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_50YDET84JHNH0M5YJ0VN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Don't get one of the really cheap ones that plug into your phone. Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083F65T8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_Z4S1vUflWdlOv

Until you are ready for something more advanced. It shows live data, which is all you need coupled with the code reading and clearing.

I also recommend getting the battery cell reader

I got a Primecom on Amazon because it had a 50 foot cord option. I’m a fan and no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/PRIMECOM-Level-2-Electric-Vehicle-Charger/dp/B07B8W9SYV?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

There was a post on here awhile ago! I can’t find the image, but this is the product they used to do exactly what you drew: Tailgate Shade Awning Tent for Car Travel Small to Mid Size SUV Waterproof 3000MM Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B5YS4B4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A9HQB1Z97KE49RAS90M7

No, that will not work. You have a 14-50, so you need an adapter that goes from 14-50 to 6-20 such as this and then another to go from a 6-20 to 5-15 like this.

Do not get one that goes straight from 14-50 to 5-15; those only output 120 volts and you will be sorely disappointed.

Okay, Im 90% sure their M6 Nylon lock nuts on those studs.

These were the AC extension cords/outlets I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N531NK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used a single "flat low profile" extension cable with 2 female ends to run from the inverter up to the accessory port door thing. Then I cut and spliced the AC outlets cords to be much shorter (like 10" i think) so they just plug into the extension cable behind the door.

The advantage of doing so is that the entire door can be removed without needing to take out the back trunk trim, which is helpful for first responders or when your taking it to get serviced and don't want to be denied warranty for stupid reasons.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IG2IZDS/

There is a specific coolant that GM calls out for hybrids. I'm not really sure what the difference is since almost all coolant by nature is non-conductive; that's how they prevent corrosion. It's also $6 cheaper on amazon right now than what I paid for it.

Also make sure you have a good USB cable - a cheap one won't have the bandwidth for it. I used to have issues but they got mostly resolved when I switched to an Anker Powerline+ cable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G5WSK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZEZ5EYWH5PFMJ1JHS0JT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I use this for my 2014. I had to have a 240V outlet installed, the electrician found a bunch of problems in the garage that they also fixed so the instal ended up being about $550, but I think the original quote was around $300 but I dont remember exactly. I also had the outlet installed about 3 feet away from the breaker box so that definitely helped reduce the cost.

Yes it is a huge upgrade. I'll post photos on my way home tonight of my led high beam bulbs in my 2017 volt . I only install opt7 leds brand bulbs in my cars and it was the first upgrade I did .

And to everyone who wants led turn signal bulbs buy these . They have load resisters in them and are extremely bright. Just remove old stock turn signal bulb and install the new led. You will thank me!!!!! ;) I made a video showing you stock bulb vs the led turn signal bulb . https://youtu.be/eONAn_aFbyY

Buy them here on Amazon:)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RLJMWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_pOGSFbJP9GJNT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this one from Amazon for my Gen1. It’s been working flawlessly for over a year now. And while it doesn’t haven’t all of the fancy features, it does have a time and KWH total for the charge session. Cord is pretty long and the plug can also be adapted to standard 110v for portability.

While this one is currently $230, a charger isn’t something I’d cheap out on esp with the higher voltage.

BESENERGY EV Charger Level 2 J1772 EVSE 27ft Home Current-Switchable 220V-240V IP66 10A/16A  Portable Charge Station Compatible with All J1772 Electric Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TKVJ389/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_33yPFb827MB3D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased this charge cord from Amazon for $179.99 and it works just fine:

https://www.amazon.com/MAX-GREEN-Electric-NEMA5-15-Compatible/dp/B082PCXKLL

I now use this one as the primary charge cord and I keep the OEM one in the car to use when traveling.

I would suggest using a separate switch. If it always comes on with the headlights, you might go nuts with the ambient light being on all night long. Or depending on where you drive, you might get pulled over for bright or certain colors of ambient light (blue or red specifically).

You can find ambient light kits sold on amazon. Google Ambient light or 12 volt ambient light kits.

Example I found on amazon. I have no info other than finding it on amazon and the reviews it has.

https://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-Multi-Color-Interior-Underdash-Lighting/dp/B000I04Z7Q/ref=pd_day0_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I04Z7Q&pd_rd_r=KS8ABMQV5EA5TMKT2M0X&pd_rd_w=MW63l&pd_rd_wg=OkSl3&psc=1&refRID=KS8ABMQV5EA5TMK...

I recently purchased this one on amazon.com. It was listed for $184 at that time but I got it for $114 by accepting an amazon credit card with the purchase. It's an unbranded Duosida and can operate both as a level 1 and a level 2 with 16A current rating. It's also portable so you can take it on road trips. Works great, waterproof, well-built and I highly recommend it.

It's a bit complicated lol Last year, my electric company offered an incentive for EV owners to install a metered charger ... Up to $2500 to achieve that goal. My house only had 100 amp service, and being everything electric, I needed to upgrade to 200 amp. Knowing a second EV and possibly a new shop being built on the farm I relocated my main to the side of the house where I park and had a second 14-50 amp outlet installed for future use. I then purchased a $200 portable L2 15amp (3.3kW) charger for the Volt, and I use the 40a openEVSE for my Bolt. Setup pictured here https://imgur.com/LiOv8Xu

The portable charger is here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GL9tBb7B45K1B I made a 14-50 adapter out of an old 10ga extension cord, an RV replacement plug, and a female nema 6-20 replacement cord end.

In the end, I spent around $2,000 extra on the electrical work, portable EVSE, and materials to make the adapter. I can elaborate further if you wish. Just lemme know :) (Edit: removed Amazon title from pasted link)

For the blind spot, they sell cheap stick on convex mirrors at any auto parts or big box store. Put it in the corner of your mirror and you'll get the best of both worlds and it should fix the blind spot issues without paying for an expensive monitoring system.

Here's an Amazon listing of $7.50 for 2 of them https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Blind-Mirror-Frameless-Convex/dp/B01CV4ANCC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1533649906&sr=8-3&keywords=auto+mirror&dpID=51HE3Z5HhFL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Thanks, I found one on Amazon that I think I will try. It looks like it can do Level-2 Charging without needing to install a big unit. I have a 240 outlet. I'm going to try it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGGVD9V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The mount appears to be an ANLI TA-1UHF. I bought it on Amazon three cars ago. I think this is the same one.

There is maybe some directionality with the tilt, but not enough that I can tell a difference.

I also bought this holster from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP3J95D/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_vH7RDb31ZWFRK

I mounted it on the outside of my garage and it keeps water out of the charging handle

I ended up "installing" these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074V5YH5T/ & https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07567QLTX/ and they helped so much I didn't have to install a rearview camera.

Not OP, but these are my favorite LED headlights I've tried in my 2013 - the beam is very clean and they are very bright:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WYL1P47

(no referral link)

And I got my switchbacks and upgraded reverse light from VLEDS.

I used one of these with the seats up, but between that and a decent cargo cover in the trunk area, you could unzip the back end and leave the seats down no problem.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B94NTYO

I'm pretty sure this is the part: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XH9VH92/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet%7C47&Model=Volt%7C16220&Year=2014%7C2014&ie=UTF8&newVehicle=1&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

This happened to me about a month ago, and I was able to fix it with the help of this very instructive video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOXwUJwQrsw

I was able to do the replacement in an hour, with only minimal tools.

Another good charging app is plugshare <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.xatori.Plugshare&amp;hl=en_CA&gt;

not sure if you have heard of it or not, quite useful in my opinion, I used it to find a bunch of local businesses that have free charging

I'm not OP but I've cleared codes with this OBD2 reader and Torque

buy this Download here

Then you just pair it and press engine on and it switches over holding whatever charge you have.

To see RPM from the gas engine I use a cheap OBD 2 bluetooth scanner and a program for Android devices called Torque.

It would be interesting to see if you can run OpenStreetCam on it. Is it really stuck on android 4.4 (KitKat) or has it been upgraded lately?

The Comma Two is based on a LeEco X720 (also know as LeEco Le Pro3). That's the same phone as the EON Gold was based on. Sadly the Snapdragon 821 it contains is getting quite old, and doesn't have any neural net accelerators for example.

Find a Dash cam that works for you first, then you will need to figure out a hardware kit that works with your dash cam. For example, my dash cam pics of micro USB connector so I have to use a micro USB hardware kit. Just check what kind of port your dash cam has. First.

https://www.amazon.com/Dash-Cam-Hardwire-Micro-Port/dp/B0791BHYBW?pd_rd_w=H3gJs&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.3cb9b85f-43ef-4d4b-94d0-0a8efe2194e9&amp;pf_rd_p=3cb9b85f-43ef-4d4b-94d0-0a8efe2194e9&amp;pf_rd_r=16G2NBAZG8CQR7D57ESR&amp;pd_rd_wg=n5JCj&amp;...

https://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-Portable-Backup-Alligator-Adapter/dp/B017K6PH1S?pd_rd_w=H3gJs&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.3cb9b85f-43ef-4d4b-94d0-0a8efe2194e9&amp;pf_rd_p=3cb9b85f-43ef-4d4b-94d0-0a8efe2194e9&amp;pf_rd_r=16G2NBAZG8CQR7D57ESR&amp;pd_...

1. Below is link to one I bought

https://www.amazon.com/VXDIAG-Compatible-Tech2WIN-System-Diagnostic/dp/B08K2SXY79/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=JTJZTOMPNMKT&amp;keywords=vcx+nano&amp;qid=1658281286&amp;sprefix=vcx%2Caps%2C888&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3NOMAZHH69LSE&amp;spL...

Success! Mind you, this is on Android using a Pixel 6. The adapter is quite pricey at $40 USD, but it is one of few that uses apt-x, which is better than AAC and the Volt's built in streaming, quality wise.

Steps:
2.Install. Using the center console 12v and aux jack, plug in. cable is thin, take care to mount the 12v plug 90 degrees to either side so that there is less stress on the cable
3. Pair. When device powers on, if it fails to pair press the center (acts as a button) for 8-10 seconds even if red/blue flashing in pairing mode.

1. Configure to use car hands-free over adapters. In your phones bluetooth settings, turn OFF "media audio" for Chevy Volt
   4a. Turn OFF "phone calls" and disallow contact sharing for BTC450

2. Finalizing. Mount the BTC450 wherever you please. Personally, I ran mine through the passenger side of the console, around the entire storage compartment, and out through the drivers side, placing the control piece a little below my start/stop button for the car.

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Car Kit (Hands-Free Adapter for Cars with 3.5mm Aux Input, Apt-X)

Here is a link to something that is maybe a little more ideal than just a standard power bank.

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Uninterrupted-27000mAh-Wireless-Smartphone/dp/B07WLD32RP/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=2FWGS8LTNQ2XU&amp;keywords=12v+ups&amp;qid=1669064340&amp;sprefix=12v+ups%2Caps%2C115&amp;sr=8-4&amp;ufe=app\_do%3Aamzn1.fos.08f69ac3-fd3d...

If you wanna be cheap.

Buy this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJPHEBO/

And use the app called OBDScan

Then just keep resetting the codes to continue allowing you to charge. Did that for two years before I sold mine.

As a temporary fix and if you don’t have time to replace the key fob and program a new one - Amazon and Ebay have hard shell Gen 1 Volt key fob covers.

I would recommend something like this. The buttons are protected and greater pressure is required to press them. I personally have been using this cone for many months now and I haven’t had any accidental unlocks!

We bought a 2016 Volt for my son last year and the charger cable it came with and the volt charger port were highly oxidized. I got some DeoxIT and some heavy duty cotton swabs and cleaned them out. Now they shine and don't get warm when charging.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

A pool timer would work too, even for a 16 amp level 2 charger, although this would require some electrical skills or an electrician to plumb it in.

Good point. The higher end kasa ones with energy monitoring ive been using are pretty heavy duty and I took temps when I first got them to make sure they were not heating up. I would probably not use their basic ones.

I've been using them for a few years now without issue. I have a Gen 2 volt and a plugin Pacifica and I use the kasa outlets so I can select which car is charging since they are both on the same circuit.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS110-Monitoring-Required-Assistant/dp/B0178IC5ZY

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-OBDCheck-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3H7VT32X1150W&amp;keywords=veepeak&amp;qid=1666308368&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjI3IiwicXNhIjoiMS45MyIsInFzcCI6IjIuMDAifQ%3D%3D&amp;sprefix=veepa%2Caps%2C1774&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1

A ) Move. Obs not a easy or quick thing to do, but I guarantee you with a landlord / roommate like that you're bound to have other issues going on. Any EV charger is UL Listed and electrically fine. No fire hazards.

B) Convince them it's fine. (Harder said than done...). Do make sure that the charger isn't on a circuit with anything else. The Volt at 120v Level 1 will draw 8amps by default, 12 amps if you select it. So long as say a Window AC unit, powerful computer, or other devices aren't on the same circuit, you should be fine. (Most household outlets are 15amp). I used an outdoor GFCI outlet that had its own circuit. If they are really worried charge at the reduced 8amp only as a compromise if it makes them feel better.

C) Get a Charger with a LCD screen that tracks usage. There's a few Level 1 chargers, and many Level 2 / Level 1 combo chargers that have LCD's that track exactly how much power they draw. I have this one that costs $330. I used it for Level 1 charging, and now that I have a Level 2 outlet I use it for Level 2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZJ6ZSRQ/ $330 after rebate. The counter resets if unplug, but you can watch your usage and let your roommate know EXACTLY how much power you use and pay for that. I have that one permanently mounted at home now, with the Voltec OEM charger in the trunk for when I need to charge at friends, family, etc.

Amazon has them

https://www.amazon.com/Keyless-Option-Remote-Chevrolet-HYQ4EA/dp/B09Q6BYWGP/ref=sr\_1\_14?crid=16BXY3ZQ8SPXM&amp;keywords=chevy%2Bvolt%2Bgen%2B2%2Bkey%2Bfob&amp;qid=1666023318&amp;sprefix=chevy%2Bvolt%2Bgen%2B2%2Bkey%2Bfob%2Caps%2C103&amp;sr=8-14&...

Mine goes into the lighter plug and keeps track of the voltage. The moment my power started to dip, I replaced the battery. It was peace of mind for me. I got something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charging-Condition-Alternator-Display/dp/B07422ZPT4?crid=2GO2LEX93PHTY&

Here. Or the dealer will be happy to sell you the same thing for like 4x the price.

Be aware that when the fobs get to looking like this, those buttons will activate by accident all the freaking time. Just being in your jeans pocket, for example. I used to come outside to all my windows rolled down and couldn't figure out why. It was the worn-out membranes on the fob.

I wrapped mine in 10mm black spiral wrap (the black is more UV-resistant) to protect it from abrasion and critters, as the rabbits in my area really like to nibble on the insulation. I got this one from Amazon, but there are lots of sources for it.

I ended up hanging the thing out a second-story window to make wrapping it easier, and it took half an hour or so, but it's pretty well protected now.

Just make sure you heed the advice above about wrapping it in such a way that avoids twisting the wires, and be careful about which way you turn when you plug and unplug it so that you're not always rotating in the same direction (I try to rotate my body clockwise when plugging it in to the car and counter-clockwise when unplugging it from the car).

This makes me wonder... has anyone checked the EV range with the LRRs vs. traditional long-wear all-seasons?

Hmmm... http://www.consumerreports.org/fuel-economy/low-rolling-resistance-tires-can-save-fuel/ According to U of M, about a (22.2-20.9)/20.9 = 6% MPG improvement from least to most efficient. IF that holds, my 43 miles per charge would go down to 40.4 miles per charge and my fuel economy at highway speeds would drop from 40 MPG to about 37.7 MPG.

is that worth it?

Special Volt issues aside, if it's being sold by a towing service it might be rebuilt wrecked car. You should check it out on that basis.

I don't know where you're headed, but this app has, among others, all the Orlando public parking chargers. Very cheap, I charged up my 2017 for less than $2.50. There are also some chargers in the Tampa area and even a handful in Miami.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chargeupev.chargeupdriver

Stay Safe!

I have a 50 amp RV plug at my house. They are 210 V. I'm charging using an adapter from Amazon to my lvl 2 plug, and my 2012 is charged in 4 hours.

There's an app for Android you can use with a OBII dongle. I used it with my 2013 and it worked fine. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thunkable.android.myvoltapp.MyVoltLifetime&amp;hl=en_US&amp;gl=US

I had a OBII BT dongle to use with MyGreenVolt already.

This would not work. Sure everyone knows this. Solar roofs are much better. Or this https://www.amazon.com/DOKIO-Portable-Flexible-Controller-Charging/dp/B07VL4LVF1?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&amp;ref_=fplfs&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2BH4CO1S03HG8#immersive-view_1662857809878

Just get a cheap one for basic diagnostic. It gives you the codes which you then can google to see what it could relate to so no surprises at the shop. Order one and try it out, if it don't work the way you want it, return it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YHDFSP3

I use the more robust LAUNCH CRP129E which is more for DYI's so you can check and reset codes on your cars. The pro version can reprogram certain things but are pretty pricey for what we use it for.
There are red colored one formulated for bug splat removal, just peek into your tank or squirt some on a white napkin. If they spilled some kind of liquids with the hood up at the shop and you have not done a car wash since, that would kinda explain the residue. Good luck with the repair.

You need a VCX Nano($129) and an AC Delco SPS2 ($45) subscription:

VCX Nano

SPS2

Omg you're so right. The uncomfortable seats are my biggest con with this car. You described my issues perfectly. I'm not that big either, 5' 11" 160lbs. I found sitting with my head an inch or so above the roof, the seat a bit more forward than I'd like to my elbow can rest on the door, and the blasted steering wheel as far back as it will go and up enough to see the blinker lights is the best I can do.

I also got this seat cushion, I found it really helped with the angle of the seat bottom. Amazon Link It's still not long enough, but you can't change that. I think if I was maybe 5 foot 2 this car would be perfect lol.

Yes, well it depends on the OEM charger you have, 2015-2019 volt OEM chargers can take 240 volt , as they are made by clipper creek for GM. Clipper creek still sells them in a 16 amp flavor. Ours are 12 amp.

You would use this adapter: Parkworld 61209 Adapter Cord NEMA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YTZM2NR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Alternatively, you can ever buy a 14-50R adaptor, though these are custom made by a guy on eBay for the sole purpose of 240 volt charging on oem chargers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153257953288?mkcid=16&amp;mkevt=1&amp;mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&amp;ssspo=oTCmgxJsRg-&amp;sssrc=2349624&amp;ssuid=8xc8SUaHSy6&amp;var=&amp;widget_ver=artemis&amp;media=COPY

I also have a 2012. Highly recommend this one. It has better audio quality because it uses a higher bitrate codec. Easy to install, has a port to charge your phone, and the pod lets you skip and pause. Also at least on my phone it plays nice being connected to both the car bluetooth for calls and this for music.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Adapter/dp/B009NLTW60

Oh! I had an old evse that had water ingress issues. I was luckily able to just clean up the corrosion so I tossed it in one of these bad boys and made it pole mountable for the carport I had at the time! Just ran the charge cable and like others said, 10 gauge, cord out the bottom openings. Has worked like a charm for 7 years.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EJWZVDQ/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Just got to get a thick enough extension cable, i.e. a 50 ft 10 Gauge Extension Cord will do fine for 12-amp charging. There's been no corrosion or arcing on either end of my cable. Don't use one of those wimpy cables from Walmart, though, those are often 16-18 gauge and will just melt.

Lower gauge is better, the extension cable has a stranded core so you need a lower gauge (bigger wires) than a solid core house wire. And length is a factor, too, the longer the extension, the higher the gauge needed to safely operate.

We did not :(. We hiked pretty far in to camp. But I just bought a tent for the car (link below). I think I'll line the interior with our hiking sleeping pads instead of an inflatable mattress to save some money. I'll report back after I use it.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08B5YS4B4?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

It's the ottocast U2-X which is actually on sale right now

https://www.amazon.com/OTTOCAST-Wireless-Android-Adapter-U2-X/dp/B09V7CNMRX/

Media controls did not work out of the box but after a firmware update it works just as if it was wired.

Side note: Firmware updating wasn't working on my android phones so I used a desktop with wifi to connect and flash the firmware. Hopefully you have better luck. Updating may also work better on iphone but I didn't try it.

Maybe, although that would be bad luck. How many miles does your car have?

Do you have an ODB2 scanner for your car? Here's a cheap one I use, works fine for everything I've done with it. And it should work just fine with iPhone apps, despite the title.

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Code Reader Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5C9Z47AZ1CS7CRGAXJPC?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Then you can get the free MyGreenVolt app with the $1 upgrade to look at all of your battery cell voltages. Then you can confirm what the dealership told you.

I got these for my Volt... STILL cant figure out exactly how to get the back one on correctly 🤣 I like them, but dont think they could hold up to my dogs (100, 50 and 40lbs) FH Group FB030BLUEBLACK-COMBO Universal Fit Blue Black Automotive Seat Covers Combo Set with Steering Wheel Cover and Seat Belt Pad for Cars, SUVs, and Trucks (Airbag Compatible and Split Bench) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HUTS6E0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_69ZYPZWJG9GSSB67J066?psc=1

honestly it’s pretty cool for less than $300, it’s responsive most of the time unless you’re doing like dragging around the screen then it lags but for navigation or choosing a song with spotify it’s amazing also using the chargepoint app you can start charges from the car which is nice

2022 Newest Wireless Apple Carplay & Android Auto, Carpuride 7 Inch Full HD Touch Screen Portable Car Radio Receiver, Car Stereo with Mirror Link, Google, Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SHQL1Z3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4KVKDFWQFKK3FGHPVBZC?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

MUSTART Level 2 Portable EV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THBGGMG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this one from Amazon, no frills level 2. Works great, 40amp if you buy something different from the volt down the road. $350

This is the one I ordered when I got my Volt in March. Nothing fancy, has held up well to Oklahoma spring showers and hail in my carport so far. My new pup even chewed the rubber cover off of it before I was able to stop her, catching the cord in a few places. Not quite 2 months in, so not able to vouch for longevity yet

MEGEAR Level 2 EV Charger(240V, 16A, 25ft), Portable EVSE Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station(NEMA 14-50 Plug) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0922SKH8S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_NY5BH0TV23JB9SMJ2VNE?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Buy this, it is suitable for your senior. https://www.amazon.com/Foot-Lighted-Outdoor-GFCI-Extension/dp/B0868W5GQB/ref=sr_1_29?crid=297LMVB7PA3G8&amp;keywords=iron+extension+cord&amp;qid=1650895400&amp;sprefix=Iron+exte%2Caps%2C870&amp;sr=8-29

You can perform a radar alignment with one of these https://www.amazon.com/VXDIAG-Tech2Win-Diagnostic-Compatible-Global/dp/B07YDCRTSD/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=vcx%2Bnano%2Bgm&amp;qid=1648871870&amp;sprefix=vcx%2Caps%2C110&amp;sr=8-7&amp;th=1&amp;pldnSite=1&amp;psc=1