If you want those to look even better, I would mount those in a channel that has a diffusing lens on it, such as:
It would diffuse the light some to where you would not see the individual LED lights
This lamp works double duty, handling bed time and wake up time.
At bed time, it starts out a bright purple (middle picture) so that my kids can read in bed. Gradually over the next hour it turns blue, and then starts dimming until it is completely off. The theory is this will help them gradually calm down over that hour of bed time.
In the morning, 20 minutes before they are allowed to leave their room, the light turns a very dim purple. It gradually brightens and turns orange (kinda like a sunrise). Once they hit the golden wakeup time, the light turns green and they are allowed to ruthlessly drag me out of sleep.
(HomeSeer, Aeotec RGB Bulb, IQ Puzzle Lamp)
EDIT: It would appear the understanding of such a wake up light is not as wide spread as I had expected. At least in my parenting circles wake up lights are quite common, and help encourage sane sleeping hours. I don't think this is a bad thing?
I like automation for the sake of automation as next as the next guy. But if anyone wants a more straight-forward approach, you can buy a stand-alone switch with built-in humidity sensor for $20-40. I've had one in my bathroom for almost 5 years now, and it has worked great.
Something like this would do the job
Etekcity Power Extension Cord Short Cable, Outlet Saver, 3 Prong, 16AWG 13A, UL Listed (10 Pack, 1 Foot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4iK4CbDTAAR3M
+1 for home assistant. I think it's list of supported components and massive community support speaks for itself. I hear Hass.io makes things nice and easy if you're going to be using a pi to control everything.
I think the unobtrusiveness is not just what system you choose but what components you choose. (aka, replacing in-wall switches instead of doing all smart bulbs)
I suggest a robot vacuum. This can't be automated by Alexa (entry level budget robovac) but it's the best damn thing for automated cleaning.
Everybody who is telling you to get a "relay" is giving you misleading advice. What you are looking for is sold as a "contactor".
The contactor is a relay, but for high power loads. They also can come with control voltages of 120V or 240V so you can hook them directly to a smart switch like a Shelly or Sonoff.
You need to look at the contactor's rated current (enough for your pump motor) and the coil voltage (see below). It also needs to have 2 poles since both lines are hot in 240V config and both must be switched.
I'm using a Shelly 2.5 so I can control my light and pump. Since I need to switch 120v for the light, I run my Shelly on 120v and my contactor has a 120v coil. If you only have 240V available, you will need a contactor with a 240V coil and a smart switch that works on 240V.
This is the contactor I've been using for the past year.
They sell caps that you can put on the stove knobs. I have them on mine so that this doesn’t happen because my kids are I. The kitchen a lot too. They are clear plastic covers. You pull the knob off and place the cover down and push the knob back in. The plastic cover opens and closes.
Clear Stove Knob Covers (5 Pack) Child Safety Guards, Large Universal Design - Baby Proof by Jool Baby https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5KVQWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EBSZ70N30JJH7MFJZQ81?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Your transformer is on the other end of those wires... it's usually in the attic or the basement. It will look similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Doorbell-Transformer-Comptible-hello-Certified/dp/B07H334M46
and will have the voltage and amperage stamped somewhere on it. Double check, but you should be able to upgrade it to the one I linked and have it work just fine.
Our washing machine & dryer live in our basement, and when we first moved into our house my wife & I would regularly forget that we had laundry that needed to be moved, etc. so we'd end up with wet laundry sitting in the washer for days on end.
Now both the washer & dryer will page us whenever cycles are complete. But we'll only get paged if we're home so we can actually do something about it. We also won't get paged if it's between 11pm and 7am so we won't get woken up if a cycle finishes then. It will wait until the morning and page us after 7am so we're (hopefully) awake to get the page. It will also only page whoever happens to be home.
I haven't had to rely on it yet, but I also have one of these mounted on the water shutoff in my basement and a couple z-wave water sensors in the basement as well. The water shutoff actually closes/opens the valve once a month in the early morning just to make sure it's working properly. If a water sensor does go off then it will page me as well as shutting off the water. I also test it manually every few months with a cup of water just to make sure it all works properly.
You mention SmartThings, but is there any reason this lock actually needs to be internet-connected? Just pick up something cheap like this and you'll have a lot less headache in the long run.
I live in Quebec, Canada. Some nights are pretty cold in winter (-20 C and lower), so when cold nights are forcasted I would plug the block heater of the car to ensure a better startup when the morning comes.
To save energy, most people use a timer.
I connect the block heater to a outdoor RF power outlet switch (like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Wireless-Remote-Control-Outlet/dp/B005N5NK7W ) , but I am not using the remote.
I built a MQTT to RF bridge using a ESP8266 arduino to control all those cheap RF indoor and outdoor power outlets that I installed around the house from my Home-Assistant ( https://home-assistant.io/ ) dashboard.
Now, when I park the car when I come back from work, I just plug the block heater. On weekdays, at 4:30 AM, an automation kicks in and if it is colder than -12 C, the heater turns on so the oil is ready when I leave for work at 7:30!
Car always starts flawlessly, I am not wasting energy and I don't have to check the weather!
If you're willing to do some tinkering, this is a perfect way to get started Envisalink EVL-4EZR
Then once you connect this to the security system box, setup HASS and it supports Envisalink, allowing you to set up automations and read your existing security system data
If your using the August Smart Lock 3rd Generation which works with your current deadbolt and is installed from the inside, no one will ever know anything is installed AND you get to use the same keys.
I'm currently renting and installed it at my place a few weeks back and it works like a charm!
August Smart Lock 3rd Generation (Silver) - https://www.amazon.com/August-Smart-Lock-3rd-technology/dp/B0752XNC8M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I used the Android app magicplan, and was pretty happy with it. I had to do some manual cleanup in a couple of places, but it's free to try out and only costs a couple of dollars to open it up so that you can export your plans. Best of all (for my purposes) is that one of the formats it can create is SVG, which means that with the help of Inkscape and the Home Assistant FloorPlan plugin, I now have an interactive floorplan running on a wall mounted tablet.
little bumpers can help too...screw a few in the sticking places (far enough back you can't see them , but the robot still hits them and backs up)
One of the reasons I am a big fan of Home Assistant is because of their philosophy on automation.
> One of the most important points made is that being able to control your lights from your phone, 9 times out of 10 is harder than using a lightswitch - where Home Automation really comes into its own is when you start removing the need to use a phone or the switch - the “Automation” in Home Automation.
It has a very robust system for triggers, rules, etc. For example, it has built in components for knowing sunrise, sunset and weather conditions, which can easily be used as conditions in automation rules.
We manufacture a motion switch (26931) and motion dimmer (26933)...I imagine it would improve your response time considerably. The SmartThings community has come up with device handlers that work well with our devices.
I wanted to control my 240v AC unit too, ended up buying this:
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nDbYAbHW5DMFN
I got an extension cord that would work for my AC unit and spliced in the switch. You could splice it into the cord from the AC if you want to.
Worked fantastic last summer.
I love Ubiquity network gear but I wouldn't bother with their cameras. You can get a 5mp Reolink for half the price of the Ubiquity 1080p cameras: https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Outdoor-Surveillance-Security-RLC-420-5MP/dp/B07FQ2T89L/
Fortunately, Amazon sells an add-on accessory to the Show that fixes this problem.
You could load Ubuntu on it and follow the virtual env install, or you can also just install it on Windows as it’s Python based. There will be limitations in some of the components though, as there are some that are built around Linux utilities (unless the Bash on Windows thing would let you load them and integrate?).
There is a list of different platforms (Windows included) you can install on with directions :-)
If you want a free product have you looked into Home Assistant or OpenHab? Those seem to be the most popular options with the most community support.
This is a very old hack. Been around for 3 years or more. You could also use a conductive pen to draw a line between those two terminals. Like this one from Amazon:
They’re dropping support for the dash buttons, but not the iOT buttons which are far superior in every way. All-New AWS IoT Enterprise Button - Use with AWS IoT 1-Click Service https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FPHHGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nRSYDbCAQW8SY
I have a bunch of these configured to lamda functions in AWS and they work great. I don’t know how you could use them without using amazons app, or what the reason to do that would be. What’s your use case?
If it’s anything like the whole house fan my parents had, you’d just need to replace that controller with a smart switch. You’d lose the ability to adjust the speed though.
Get the kid used to a noise machine right away. It'll help cover up the sounds of TV, music, doors closing, etc so wakeups don't occur as often. I happened to use an air filter at first but now use a Marpac Dohm.
I have that and a dimmed red lamp set up. "Turn on/off the sleepy" controls them.
My default suggestion is Ubiquiti gear. However something seems, very, very wrong with your network. You shouldn't have a device limit and I would pressure Asus for a fix. RMA it again and make them resolve the problem.
That being said, you said less than $200 so I will offer this:
Little bit more upfront config. However you will be far happier with the results.
No, they aren't.
They don't have the port on them, but they support it through the micro USB.
I think what you want is BOND.
You'll install a remote-control kit (sold separately, but some are linked in the above review article) and then use BOND to act as an extra, WiFi enabled remote control.
Definitely looks like a caseta smart switch, take the cover off and see if the markings on the switch frame match.
Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Switch for All Bulb Types and Fans, PD-6ANS-LA, Light Almond, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCGR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_11H0AbD24YA4H
I used one of these for this exact type of switch: ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Dual Relay Module, Hidden Smart Switch, 120-277VAC, 10A Per Relay, NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED, ZWN-RSM2-PLUS, Black (New Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQMGH7X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XNd9DbFGY073G
It goes in behind the switch in the gang box and makes the dumb switch smart.
It's a dumb 345MHz sensor, there's no way to "pair" it to anything besides an alarm panel, but what you can do is pick up a USB SDR stick (I use this one) and pick up the signals with something like HoneywellSecurityMQTT. I've been using it with my OpenHab setup for over a year and it's been great and also has the bonus of still working with your existing alarm if you still use it.
It may not give you all the functionality that you're looking for, but take a look at the Echo Input: https://smile.amazon.com/Echo-Input-Bring-Alexa-speaker/dp/B07BFRHZLB/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=echo+input&qid=1566512061&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-1.
It’s this device, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hyk1BbSPGZBWT and it uses the eWeLink app to configure.
I want to be able to, for example, grant access to my in-laws so they can let themselves in, but without having them signed in to my Alexa account.
This is more of an Alexa or IFTTT question, as this same question could apply to my Lutron controllers, ecobee, etc...
Check this out, complete with cases, batteries, and 2 year operation on a CR2032 battery.
GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Heavy Duty 40 Amp Smart Switch, Indoor/Outdoor Rated 120-277V, Energy Monitoring, Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14285, Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8uihDb7SNW5NN
Nice work! Great minds think alike! We still use ours every day.
Edit: we also bought this to organize the cards well.
Lipper International 810 Bamboo... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FB6TS0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I recommend buying some WAGO lever-nut connectors to make your electrical boxes that much cleaner and easier to service and test. They are expensive compared to wire-nuts but you only need a couple per box. https://www.amazon.com/Wago-Lever-Nut-Assortment-Pocket-Pack/dp/B01N0LRTXZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1528247336&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=wago+lever&psc=1
Read their privacy statements to get some loose idea as to what data they are collecting, and what they are doing with it. By looking at when you toggle lights, they can infer when you go on vacation and that you tend to stay out late on thursday nights. This can be coupled with the location and usage info they're gathering from their mobile app you may run, and you can easily build up a rather valuable collection of info. Advertisers pay good money for this, for example.
Then there's the malicious use of info.. would-be burglars who happen to have access to this data, either legitimately by being employees or illegally by compromising the incredible weak security practices that these companies tend to deploy, can tell when you are home or not, and use that information however they want. Same goes for stalkers, bullies, etc. You may think you don't have to worry about this, but other people do, and by using/paying for these services you encourage their proliferation which can harm folks who would benefit from not spewing personal info all over the internet.
You might say "that's all hypothetical, hatperigee", to which I would respond: nope, it's real. People collect this data for a variety of reasons, whether you agree with it or not. You can strongly disagree by refusing to use services that insist on being the gatekeeper for your personal usage information.
This is pretty interesting. The article briefly mentions RTL-SDR. So I did a search on Amazon and came up with a $25 USB antenna kit that has 900mhz capability. I'm assuming it's what the author was talking about, not sure why he couldn't link to it.
I bought this because it was too cheap not to at least try.
Loaded it up with 4 AA batteries in February 2016 and haven't touched it since. Powers our coat closet, about the size of your closet, which gets opened many times every day.
It's motion activated, sticks to the inside top door frame, provides plenty of light, and cost me $10 shipped.
Get a raspberry pi 3 and check out /r/homeassistant :)
Or if you want an easier process (but not as robust) get a samsung smart things hub.
Either one you can set schedules, have presence detection, etc. Home-Assistant allows you to do some crazy things that smart things does not though. Want to turn a light red when a certain river overflows its banks? You can do that in home assistant. Want your google home to tell you that the international space station is above your house? Home assistant can do that. Want to have certain lights come on at sunset(which changes everyday, of course)? Home assistant can do that. Want to dim your lights when you start playing a video on your chromecast? You know where this is going.
Home Assistant has a great community of developers. And it is open source. Currently, it can plug into 906 different 3rd party components. It is definitely the most robust tool out there.
I’d recommend running piHole on a raspberry pi or a vm. You can configure it to block just about anything on your network from phoning home, along with the awesome dns level ad blocking it does as well. https://pi-hole.net
If interested, there is also a project tutorial, including code files, Gerber files, and instructions:
Ok so maybe that needs more explanation. HomeAssistant uses a lot of YML files for its configuration. And sometimes I mess up formatting yml and HASS does not start. So to fix this, I store all the configs for HASS in GITLAB git repo and I run a GitLab Runner on my local Synology NAS. So now all changes I make are version controlled and after every commit, a GitLab CI job runs that validates the YML and if all good it pushes to my local Homeassistant instance and restarts.
If you need more info, a good tutorial is given here- https://about.gitlab.com/2018/08/02/using-the-gitlab-ci-slash-cd-for-smart-home-configuration-management/
For why I run it on Synology and not RPI is only cause I prefer to have my docker containers in one place.
>The lack of functionality of the now-mandatory Smart TV is a perfect example of what's going to happen to all the IoT kitchen tech. A $50 Roku stick is infinitely more usable than my 2018 Samsung Smart TV.
Exactly. You have to hunt to find a "dumb" TV these days. I got a TV thinking it was "mostly dumb", but the damn thing required* me to install a rather intrusive app to a device with 'net access, and then the device automatically attached the TV to the Wifi...
Uhhhh... fuck you? Took a fresh device, wiped it. Installed the app. Immediately blocked the TV at the firewall, did the configurations I wanted, and promptly locked it all back down again.
* Can't access the Setup screens with on-TV buttons, and the included remote is so "simple", it doesn't even have numbers on it. they really expected people to just use the app I suspect.
I’d recommend you use these aluminum channels for the cabinets otherwise you will get the LED lights in your eyes. Place them at the front of the cabinet facing the rear, with the cables running on the side of the cabinet.
you’re most likely going to want to split up your power supplies so that you don’t have to run the cables all over the place.
If I were you, I'd consider individually addressable LEDs: http://www.thesmarthomehookup.com/the-complete-guide-to-selecting-individually-addressable-led-strips/
I use an electric kettle and Aeropress to make my coffee every day. I have one of these and I love it.
The kettle brings 20oz of water to a boil as fast as I can get the coffee ready to brew, less than 2 minutes. Automating in this situation is unnecessary imho. Plus you are not overriding safety features that keep heating elements from turning on dry when unsupervised.
just run two wires from this down to the bowl at the level you care about: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Water-Leak-Sensor/dp/B00MOIYIN6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1545688157&sr=8-6&keywords=zwave+leak+sensor
I use Home Assistant for presence detection and then HASS can open the door for me. If you're going down the home automation route you may want to think of the bigger picture now instead of going in on a bunch of different ecosystems and hubs that don't talk.
You want an in wall scene controller. You can get them with several buttons. Here is a 4 button one at Amazon.
Check your controller's compatibility list. Some scene controllers, especially those that have extra features like IR remote support, don't get along with all controllers.
Much like the Inkbird that another poster recommended, I use the SensorPush tempurature and humidity probes to monitor our crawlspace, greenhouse, and chicken incubators. They connect to your phone and have a really long memory so even if you only walk by the sensor occasionally you'll still get the history of what the trends have been. The listing says they store 20 days of data but it seems like much more to me, we have one that I never seem to be near but it always is able to catch up months worth of data.
They require no other devices, hubs, etc - just a phone - but there is an optional hub that you can get if you want to keep track of multiple of them without having your phone nearby.
They’re from amazon. Rated to -4°. I just got them so I can’t give a review.
Smart WiFi Light Bulb, LED RGB Color Changing, Compatible with Alexa and Google Ho... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLSNNDS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_YDTaEbR5PC739
So this guy right here was recommended to me in a YouTube video. It just takes a standard micro USB charger (I had plenty lying around, but they're cheap) and a few inches of bell wire (25¢ per foot at Lowes.)
It has a wifi chip built in, and is built to work with the eWelinks app, which also works flawlessly with echo, Google, IFTTT, and more.
I think this is the YouTube video.
/u/Goby1 here you go.
They're basically going to be the same ones: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Channel-Module-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B00KTELP3I
These are rated at 10A for 250v so probably would work for your motors. Check what they pull - motors also tend to pull a lot more on startup so if they use more than 5A I would look for something higher. They'll work just as well for controlling any lower voltage. Given that they're rocker switches, I'd guess they're just sending low voltage control signals.
Since they rock both directions, you'd probably want two banks, one for the top, one for the bottom. Then just wire them up to an arduino with ESPHome or an MQTT client and you should be good.
The downside is they won't have any feedback for the actual position, so you'd have to have them optimistic and do something like define "closed" as "close the 'down' relay for 10 seconds"
Seriously, what year is this?!?! And holy fuck are there really 4.8 MILLION telnet things exposed to the Internet: https://www.shodan.io/search?query=port%3A23&language=en#
For those without an account: http://imgur.com/D6pgsRj.jpg
I have needed a CCTV camera so decided to transform my Android phone into it - found Clickmate application which seems to allow record input on the screen and then repeat it, so I recorded following flow:
It worked well so I decided to share the idea with you.
As I can see the app is only available for Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.inscode.autoclicker&hl=en&gl=US
She has a loft bed, and we installed a string of Zigbee RGB lights (Sylvania Smart+ Lightstrip) underneath it in her "cave." I wanted her to have a good way to control it, so I whipped up a little control box out of a NodeMCU and two Adafruit 1x4 keypads. Control is by publishing to an MQTT topic with the new color, which Home Assistant then acts on. She painted the box itself, which is just an old Amazon Basics AA battery box.
Here is the post which states what the new platform is: https://ifttt.com/blog/2017/05/calling-all-makers
It's basically a complex "If this than that" program that runs on a server of your choosing. Not only does it connect with Home Assistant, but a variety of other APIs that can be used to trigger events.
It's pretty cool, I installed it on a Raspberry Pi as an addon to HASSIO.
All that said, I treat Node Red as the brains (Automation logic and what not), and Home Assistant as the muscle (The host to which the actions are triggered).
> Really making sure you change the default user/pass and updating firmware will save you
Lol no. Tons of IoT crap ships with backdoor accounts that the user cannot remove or change the password of (At least not easily). Hell here's a shodan search that brings up a ton of camera DVRs that have an irremovable unauthenticated webshell running as root
You just plug in the regular Chromecast to an audio extractor like one below. You plug the speakers to the output of the audio extractor.
I am not the seller, just sharing what I purchased and worked for me. It was either this or Amazon Basics branded I considered, preferred this for the microusb power vs barrel type.
Also agree, and exactly what I did:
I do not know of such a thing. Closest I have seen is this one:
There are a few problems though
For one, it's z-wave and not zigbee. This is, imo, a good thing if you are using smartthings or hubitat, though if you're using the new echo, that does not support z-wave.
The bigger problem is that, unfortunately, all of the functions (in particular the motion sensor) dont really work well over z-wave out of the box. But there is a smartthings community device driver out there that seems to work much better and provide full functionality. Everything in this paragraph is just the information i gather from the many amazon reviews on the product.
I also checked and someone in the hubitat community also wrote a driver for that platform that people claim makes it work well. So if you have (or are willing to get) either of those hubs you could have this one specific way to more-or-less get what you want
Please remember though that im just regurgitating what other people are saying. I haven't used it, so I can't personally verify this stuff
Rachio is $50 off all weekend on Amazon for their Memorial Day promo.
195 CFM blower: $25 on Amazon
Carbon filter: $40 on Amazon
The smart outlet is a cheap one from idr where
The motion sensor is the Smartthings one
One option is Openhab a z-wave motion detector and rules. Regardless though, from my experience, IFTTT is way too slow for something like that, like upwards of 15 minutes to fire.
I have one Pi that runs Home Assistant and one that runs Pi-Hole. I like hosting things like that on the Pi because the low power draw means the services survive for tens of hours even in the event of a power failure.
xmpp is a an open source / well supported protocol.
there are clients for basically everything. (no seriously, basically everything. my refrigerator has an xmpp client..)
I use MEROSS smart garage door switch on my 70's craftsman opener and it works great. Got it from Amazon. I also got great customer service from them as well.
We got this mattress pad last month. The wife loves it and I love her not coming to bed in sweat pants any more. 😅 I’ve got it set up as a routine through Alexa to run for a few hours every night. smart water heated mattress pad
using the other switch won't disable the smart capability.
if you have a 3-way switch, it's because there's more than one location that should have the ability to turn the light off and on. if you use a 3-way smart switch you can still turn everything off and on remotely or by schedule... it just means that you can also turn the light on and off at the other switch location.
if you're trying to remove the ability to use a mechanical switch, remove both switches and use something that can be put inside the junction box, like https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Remote-Control-Compatible-Android/dp/B078GDFYTY/
use a 3-way smart switch to replace the 3-way analog switch
you should only need one smart switch. the other switch can be left as is.
First off, I like the idea, but I'm trying to figure out who the customer is....
Like, you have it as being standalone, but it seems like for most use cases it adds steps to the process...
Take for example, streaming a movie through external device with a Harmony....
In the background, it turns on all the appropriate equipment for you, sets it all to the right inputs, and takes all the "thinking" out of it.
Same idea... your device...
It might be too late in the process, but wired IR blasters (or even wifi controlled ones?), and a simple remote would eliminate most of this... Give the remote X buttons on the top for "Scenes/Configs/Whatevers", and then bare bones functionality... D-Pad, Channel +/-, Volume +/- Maybe Gen1 is just a re-skin of those cheap RGB LED remotes with LOOKin translating the remote's code to the device's code.
Really, that's a huge gap in general with home automation.....remotes and voice control that don't suck.
I noticed today's Kasa app update release notes said it added support for "KC120", so I did a little searching amd found this new Nestish cam that was added to Amazon 5 days ago. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074WJPPCZ/
Looks like you got the wrong kit... the one you purchased specifically says it's an extension (therefore it's additional lights). You'll have to buy the 3-light starter pack from what I can see;
Do a return and use the credit against the 3-pack... I know the 3 might be surplus but I can't see anyplace else to get the power supply unless you feel like reverse-engineering a solution.
For the record, I hate when companies do this sort of bundling crap...
Unfortunately, no. Ring products require a cloud connection to function properly.
With that being said, if you have the ability to block specific domain queries using a tool like Pi-hole, then you have control over what queries go out from your home network.
I have this setup side-by-side with homebridge (for homekit) and, thanks, to this article, I blocked a few more domains that I didn't know were making queries on my network.
Nortek/Linear/GoControl HUSBZB-1. Uses a single USB port; does both zigbee and z-wave. I got mine for $35 including shipping. Works with Home Assistant.
Smartthings is a simple plug and play Hub that can get most done very easily and is a good intro to this world. That is why the Internet loves it. However it is reliant on the cloud and it is one of the main reasons this sub hates it.
If you are planning on making any lights turn on when a switch is turned on that are not on the same power circuit the cloud is a bad thing. Give this blog post a read https://home-assistant.io/blog/2016/01/19/perfect-home-automation/ He makes alot of good points the main one being your automation should not get in the way. With that said when you first get started there will be times where it will and that's OK as long as you can recognize it.
I personally started with smartthings about 2 years ago and have been migrating to Home Assistant the last few weeks and have fallen in love with this system. Smartthings was a nice welcome kit. One thing I will say is avoid the smartthings sensors, they are zigbee and as such you may not be able to use them on your next environment. Zwave tends to be the common denominator stick to it for your own sanity. I have 4 smartthings door sensors I will most likely use for a very long time via the Home Assistant smartthings Bridge.
Insteon for reliability and latency (it is fast due to each node being a repeater for every other node), Zwave for diversity and cost. The Insteon stuff is a bit pricier due to only 1 company making it all and patenting the snot out of everything.
Home Assistant is great stuff in my opinion and really cares about openness and not tying you to a cloud service ie:
I'm a bit biased as a contributor :)
We manufactured these for a project and decided to make them available on Amazon since we couldn't find them anywhere. Check them out: 19mm Latching 19mm Momentary
The august smart lock MAY work but I’m not sure of fitment with the big plate.
Another option is this. I do not have any experience with it but it has popped up in my suggestions on Amazon and it seems like a good idea. It’s designed it fit entirely internal to the door. I’m assuming it should fit.
I’m using an eco-link:
Ecolink Z-Wave PIR Motion... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQXXG0I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
With a bhyve:
Orbit 21004 B-hyve Smart Hose Faucet Timer with Wi-Fi Hub, Compatible with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758NR8DJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WQ06NXJYVMY98NMK6Y0G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ll have to check the logs! Mesh strength should be good though. My whole house is zwave... I’d prefer to not add zigbee:(
Ditto: I put these in every bathroom years ago, and I have zero complaints.
BN-LINK Countdown Digital in-Wall Timer Switch 5-10-20-30-45-60mins, for Bathroom Fan,in-Wall Light Timer, Neutral Required, Free Plate, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184OYJN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M70TGS07HZXF76Y0TWSJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ecobee 3 w/ room sensor on sale on their site for 199. 11/18 - 11/28.
Amazon currently is showing the same price.
Edit: added links
This ballast makes cheap LED strips integrate into your Hue setup. It works perfectly with mine. Check the Amazon comments for details. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What's wrong with the GE one?
New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Hey, great idea!
FYI, and a bit of shameless self promotion, I've written a Home Assistant plugin for Tasker which would make the first half of your guide much simpler :)
Something like this would work.
That way you don't have to tap into the mains high voltage power. If you can run an ethernet cable around this is the safest.
I can recommend putting an htpasswd based auth in front of HA via Nginx anyways. This secures you from any potential security issues behind that password rule (if you use a secure password ofc).
There is an good example of DigitalOcean on how to do this:https://www.digitalocean.com/community/tutorials/how-to-set-up-password-authentication-with-nginx-on-ubuntu-14-04
Additionally to that: Don't expose any other port than 80/443, period.
Home Assistant had a component which will use OpenCV to read the value from a 7 segment display via webcam. Raspberry pi and a camera should do it.
Home Assistant's z-wave integration is finally quite good. You will need a z-wave dongle (z-stick for instance). I'm actually moving from my Vera back to Home Assistant for z-wave.
As for other protocols, not sure what you are after.
>Which systems do you use in your home with HomeAssistant?
Most of that is z-wave, other than the garage door and amp.
I also have integrations with my wifi (disable the kids SSID), weather station, cameras, etc.
>What are there any good examples of systems I can copy?
See here: https://home-assistant.io/cookbook/
You should fully purge everything from Alexa - you can do so from the web site: https://alexa.amazon.com/spa/index.html#appliances
At the bottom is a "Forget All" button. Nuke it all and start again.
Do you already have a Z-Wave controller? If so, which one?
Home Assistant supports both Z-Wave AND RESTful API.
I use these smart buttons from Broadlink. $25 gets you a four-button switch and the associated hub:
It works great with Amazon Alexa, and is also supposed to work with IFTTT. I don't use it with IFTTT, so I can't speak for how well it works.
The range on the switches covers my 3-story home, with the hub centrally located.
There is an adhesive bracket that allows you to hang the switch on the wall as well as carry it around.
If the device can be set to come on when power is applied, you could use a battery eliminator like this:
You would plug a USB adapter into a smart plug and use the HA system to control the smart plug.
You could use something like this luxeport with power over Ethernet and have an on wall iPad for device control or just charging. Would need a PoE injector on the other side to provide power unless there’s a PoE switch near the electrical panel.
IPORT Luxe (LuxePort) WallStation iPad Wall Mount - Compatible with All Luxe Cases - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CGQ4DL9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YXP0W920C601RDD33KAE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure that exact one is best for you but just a thought.
It comes with an app and you can get a fob. (Some places sell it with the fob)