To be frank they could have just launched an unmodified of-the-shelf quadcopter flight controller to do the same thing. That would weigh 6.6g and have 36x36x3mm dimensions and have more instrumentation than this thing.
The capsule holding this 'satellite' will have better instruments than this for navigation.
This makes for a good headline.
You're looking for r/whatisthisthing. This is "what is IN this thing".
However, I happen to know its a hook for hanging pictures:
I study Mechanical Engineering and now work mostly with sheet metal and electrical housing, September is 1 year anniversary at work for me :P
And yes, those items are sitting on a extra large mouse pad, an awesome upgrade for your desk, believe me. I got this one here, the site is legit and if you fork out a little bit more for shipping you can get it relatively fast.
Hellfighter 6 - $4-6000 worth of HID (~3000 lumens, 80 mins on high with the internal battery)
You could buy 18 GT70s (LED, 7,500 lumens, ~2hr runtime on high) and still have change.
I'd say that charger is crap. Same as these, and a half dozen other names, except Lumen Tactical is probably buying them for a dollar a piece.
Get yourself a Nitecore, Xtar, Opus, Liitokala, or MiBoxer. You could charge AA/AAA rechargeable's too
For $20, the WowTac A1 is probably the best choice if you're just going for lumens. For $30, the WowTac A1S.
If you're okay with a site other than Amazon, BLF A6 is damn bright and has a great UI. But you will need to buy a battery and charger.
Yes, you can. See laptop pull voltage testing for more on salvaging cells from battery packs.
You'll want a flashlight that's compatible with flat-top, unprotected cells, that has its own low-voltage protection, and a reliable charger.
The Convoy S2+/SST-20 is a good option for a light. I recommend 4000K/95 CRI for excellent color rendering, and 7135x6 for a good balance of brightness and heat. This has fairly modest power consumption, making it good for older batteries that may not be in the best shape.
The Liitokala Lii-402 charger is a good option with four slots and a low price. It can also charge NiMH batteries and can use one slot to act as an 18650-powered USB powerbank (though it's not as good at this as some others).
Haha thanks, not too sure why I spent the time making it. Just was really excited at the 3 day postage time instead of the usual 3 weeks.
But It's very possible that the AU warehouse will turn out the same as the EU or even the US warehouse which sucks. They all should stock high demand items at similar prices. Instead it's probably just going to be a whole lot of whatever this is.
The Astrolux S41 is a steal at $32 for a Nichia 219B quad with the A6 driver. I would recommend adding the 18650 tube.
The Atactical A1 has been popular lately because it comes with a USB-charging 18650 for $20 on Amazon. It's not a great light, but it's manufactured and distributed by Thrunite, so the build quality is solid and it's available shipped from the US, Europe and Japan.
I was going to suggest this, little Bluetooth receiver/amplifiers are super cheap and pretty powerful. You could hide a speaker behind the original grill and no one would be the wiser.
Geek SK61 . I lubed and filmed the switches, and replaced the escape button
If you're okay with waiting a while, you could get an Astrolux S43 and a Samsung 30Q.
Lumintop Tool AA - $21; choice of magnetic tailcap and twist action, or tail switch; GITD silicone lantern/diffuser included.
Counterfeits and knockoffs are two different things - knockoffs are sold for a fraction of the price and duplicate the real deal but don't try to be the real deal. You got a counterfeit, sold at full price as if it's genuine article but it's not. The actual product may be the same in both cases, but a counterfeit fucks both the consumer and the maker of the genuine article while the knockoff is just taking market share (not always legally).
See the Eachine E010 vs the Blade Inductrix - basically the same thing, but the Eachine is much cheaper. It's sold as a distinct product however, so it's a knockoff and not a counterfeit.
You can't get everything you asked for, I think, but here are some things that come close:
The Eagletac PX30LC2 with Nichia 219C is everything you asked for, but about double your budget.
If you're up for some light modding, the S41's switch can probably be replaced with a forward-clicky that does have momentary. You need only remove a retaining ring using fine-pointed pliers or tweezers. If you can solder, you can replace the TN12's LED with a high-CRI Nichia 219C or Samsung LH351D.
The newest ones are the Emisar D4 and the Astrolux MF01. Both are available with Nichia 219Cs.
Fenix ALB-10. I wouldn't recommend using it with heavy lights or lights with large, long heads like the C8. They'll bounce around a lot. It works well with tube lights like the Convoy S series.
Convoy makes great budget lights.
Over at Banggood, Astrolux is the popular budget option.
Edit: and Jaxman is great if you like Nichia emitters.
No way! What listing did you find where it ships from the US? This one is all I can find and it says it ships from China.
Ooh. Compact and small. I don't know that you can have both of those in the same light. /s
These DIY air filtration solutions are awesome, but You really need to use something like this (actually was this one at ~$25) to monitor the effectiveness. I got one last year after fire season abated and now find it really useful for indoor monitoring and gauging the effectiveness of my own air filtration solutions.
Of those two, the SP36 is available with Anduril and high CRI emitters. It's also smaller and more pocketable, so that would be my choice.
I found this at Banggood. 1300 lumens from an XP-L HI with well bypassed springs in direct drive is feasible. However the claim from that product page "Boasts a peak beam intensity of 152000cd cd and a throw distance of up to 779 meters" isn't credible. Randy at PFlexPro (who I trust) gives a figure of "over 600 meters" for a 1300 lumen XP-L HI in a C8. Randy's figure might be conservative, but 779 meters from an XP-L HI in a light that size does not compute; so I claim.
Even so, it could be a nice flashlight. I don't know of anywhere, other than PFlexPro (which is admittedly a little pricey) that you could get a ready made C8 in direct drive. Banggood has had some problems with their FET+1 drivers so I might wait and see.
While this will be one of the highest output "conventional" C8 flashlights (Randy's XM-L2/XP-L flashlights will beat it by a couple of hundred lumens) the XHP50.2 Kaidomain C8.2 has a lot more output and a boost driver for stable output which direct drive lights do not have.
get an Anne Pro and a grifiti fat wrist pad, the small one
avoid logitech, romer g's are bad switches
avoid corsair, too expensive, quality control isn't that great, shit keycaps
consider a coolermaster masterkeys or a quickfire tkl, the build quality is great for the price and the masterkeys gives you rgb
reds are weird, im not a fan of not knowing when the key is pressed. stick to blues or browns imo.
I'd suggest upgrading to 18650s. Much more power than a set of 3xAAAs, never mind a single cell.
The BLF A6 is currently available for $21 with a Samsung 30Q thrown in for effectively free.
Or - slightly above your loose budget, there's the Astrolux S43, also with a 30Q. That can be recharged from USB, and has a ramping UI, so you can pick anything from dim enough that your old minimag solitaire will beat it, to campsite-illuminatingly bright, albeint for not all that long. Personally I'd opt for the S43*s* version of that, with the coppper head for more heatsinking.
Or there are lights like the Convoy S2+, or many, many others.
If you determined to stick with (single) AAA, the Lumintop Tool AAA is a decent choice.
Emisar D1S or Lumintop GT Mini.
That light was first made available on Amazon in 2012. It's a bit behind the times...
And may well not like being fed 3.7V rechargeables.
For a simple on-off light, I'd suggest something like the Convoy S2+ with a multi-7135 (three to eight chips, giving you from about 1A to 2.8A) driver so you can choose the current draw for 100% power, giving you whatever brightness you've worked out as reasonable, then set it to only use the one mode.
It would take some research and fiddling - and probably some soldering - to get set up, but once that's done, you'd be able to hit the switch, and go.
Something more suited to this.
Although the appropriate number of Yuji LEDs (in 3200K or 5600K) might make for a nice mod; assuming it takes 5mm ones, that is.
> Maybe just the c8
Yup, C8+, 20 bucks, done. Awesome flashlight for someone on a pizza delivery salary.
3D printing won't work (because of strength, quality and size). These have to be made of molded plastic. Buy an assorted gear set like this one. You may also find the exact gear here as well.
Well first up, it's literally illegal in most jurisdictions to intentionally jam radio signals or even transmit on non-ISM bands without a radio/HAM license.
> what basic materials I'd need to build this circuit?
All the components, some wire, a half-decent soldering iron, and some 63/37 tin/lead solder.
If you're getting into electronics, grab a bulk pack of resistors and capacitors; I like SMD books
C2 and C3 can be non-polarized ceramic types, whether you want a ceramic or electro for C4 is up to you - but a ceramic will likely work better.
Don't try to build your FM transmitter on a breadboard, breadboards have too much parasitic capacitance and it won't work right.
PS: talkingelectronics.com have a mountain of FM radio transmitter projects, and you also get to experience what webpages were like in the 1990s ;)
You sick bastard...
You might want to look at the BLF A6.
It's still a very popular light that is a very good EDC.
BLF A6 (5A tint) with Samsung 30Q Battery @ $22.79+2.99 shipping US warehouse.
Here is a review of some of the Emisar lights along with some Zebralights and other EDC type lights.
^Video ^reviews ^by ^reddit ^user ^spaced_inv8r
The lumintop GT Mini is a very good contender for the price (especially on sale like that) - you can add a couple of 30Qs to your order for a little more than $50 all in.
How about the S43S, (when it gets released)? It looks like the best mix of the S41 and S42 - still a quad, with a copper head for good heatsinking, and a side e-switch, lanyard hole and microUSB charging.
Shame about the lack of steel bezel, though.
New Giiker cube that isnt Bluetooth, really interested in seeing what else Xiaomi does in the future with more cubes.
Link to new giiker cube
> should be able to stun targets but not get any complaints about the brightness
Don't those two points conflict, just a bit?
That said, flashlight companies have been advertising their 'stunning' lights for years, all the way back to the ~200 lumen days.
How about the Convoy C8+? You can use 1" scope/light mounts with the C8, so I assume the new version is still compatible, along with the pressure-switch tailcaps.
If not, you're stuck with black or clear (silver) (or a can of spray paint of your choice) for the C8.
I feel obligated to tell you that its really a slightly modified Lumintop Worm, so you could go that route instead. Prometheus won't tell you its made by Lumintop, but it almost certainly is. The electrics and most of the body are the same, but the Beta has a different tail with a pretty neat quick-release setup allowing you to swap in either keychain attachment or a pocket clip. I can't tell you how to spend your money, I have the Prometheus and I like it, but others don't find the changes to be worth the price difference.
The BLF A6 is on sale for a pretty good price right now...
I personally really like the UI - group one (default) always starts on moon, then half press to go up brightness levels. Or from moon, just fully click off and on again to go straight to turbo. It also has hidden strobe and battery check, which is nice.
It can put out a pretty good amount of light on turbo (direct drive), but also works well on lower modes. It is available in a few tint/temps (recommend 3D 5000K or 5A 4000K).
It is a pretty well reviewed light, can't really go wrong!
Feel free to ask any questions, and good luck on your search!
How about the DQG tiny 18650 v4?
The waterproofing and drop resistance aren't that great - thin o-rings and no springs don't lend that much confidence - but is is about as short, slim, and light as you're going to be able to get in an 18650 light.
Here's an imgur album of closeups I took a while ago
I can't actually find mine at the moment to confirm, but you should be able to easily swap the LED and optic for something with a better tint - though the NW in mine is nice enough - and beam for your needs. The bezel unscrews and the optic drops out, and I think there's a screw or two under there holding the emitter board in place.
Looks like Caddx is trying to compete with the runcam split
If it's what I think, that's a SkyRay King clone. The popular one these days is the BLF Q8. Don't pay $80 for one though; there's usually a coupon code to get it under $50.
It's probably a nasty cool white tint and not the claimed output, but otherwise no real problems as long as you're not using crap batteries.
> easy to store and recharge
I guess you want something with integrated charging then? I can think of 3.
Olight X7R Marauder $280
Acebeam X60M but it's sold out
Acebeam X65 $500
The most common recommendations for budget lights are the Astrolux S1 and the Convoy S2+. Both of these lights are fairly durable, but the Convoy is generally a bit better built. The UI that comes with it is fairly basic, but if you message the seller he will add the newer UI to your light for a small price.
If those two don't meet your requirements we'll need a bit more info. Which lights have failed on you in the past? What features do you need? Form factor? Throw or flood? There's not a lot to go off of in your post. The recommendation form in the sidebar is always a great place to start.
These are cheap junk IMO. You can find them for 3 or 4 dollars at several chinese online stores. Here's a good example, except this comes with two batteries and a charger (which are also crap). Here's another. Fasttech has a few dozen of them to under many names.
That's what the
part of the url is.
I'll re-iterate because some people are really touchy. I love Stu and has done a lot for the hobby, but he is getting paid for these reviews.
It would be nice for him to point that out, because it seems a lot of people don't realise it.
I assume when you were talking about the "nuts and the motors" you meant prop nuts, right? If so, two helpful things there. First, after the nuts are used once or twice they will get a lot easier to put on. Second, invest in a 99 cent rubber jar opener. Any grocery still will sell them. Use that to hold the motor as you tighten it. You can also use it to guard your hands against prop blades to get a bit more torque. There are also these: https://www.banggood.com/Realacc-Motor-Grip-Pliers-For-RC-Models-p-1053444.html?rmmds=search
PLEASE don't put anything inside your motor to do this. You run the risk of torqueing your bell and destroying your motor.
Second, before you FPV... SIM. Spend at least 10 hours simming before you even try FPV. Acro mode FPV is a learned skill that really comes naturally to no one. There is nothing that helps to get better then just stick time... and the similator is the best place to learn.
Here it is!
Got mine from banggood and didn't seem to have issues with import tax etc. Banggood offer insurance against it too for a couple of bucks.
Mixed reviews are right, it is a convenient device, not the best in the world.
(link below) https://www.banggood.com/50KHz-200MHz-400MHz-2GHz-Malachite-SDR-Radio-DSP-SDR-Receiver-3_5-inch-Touch-Screen-AM-or-SSB-or-NFM-or-WFM-Analog-Modulated-p-1773087.html?p=HP080535844950201908&custlinkid=1429766&cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6298871
FYI Womier can be bought for 1/3 the price new, don't get ripped off:
There's the Xiaomi wowstick, but it's not very high torque - 3NM max, even in manual mode.
Or the Wiha Speede, for a VDE insulated one that runs on 18500s
BLF X6 - $21.95 with a 30Q, or $16.99 on its own
For an inexpensive dedicated thrower, you can't beat the Emisar D1S or the GT mini. Both perform the same, so just pick based on styling. Warm CCT is good for throwers - "natural white" for GT mini, 5D tint for D1S
For flood, the D4S or BLF Q8 works well. Reply if you want more info on these.
The main issue with asking for weapons-grade lights like the D1S or the Q8 is that there's so much to get wrong. Which tint, what batteries, where to find the online store (give them the link).
> lowering chip count on a convoy or something
That was the first thing I thought of, but even beyond that, this Convoy driver has a mode group that tops out at 50% of whatever the maximum current is, if that ends up being too bright.
Got one last week :)
Edit: Yeah I'd second Banggood, that's where I got mine from- They have an offer going on now too
I can't find any legit tests of that Victagen 18650, but that charger is a Liitokala 202 which isn't half bad. I would say, might not be the best battery for that A6 since it's a direct drive hotrod, and those batteries are unknown. Something like a Samsung 30Q, Sony VTC5 or 6, LG-HG2. You can buy that same charger, and 2 brand name cells from local US sellers, for roughly the same price. And you don't want to buy those brand names from Amazon since there are so many counterfeits. Liionwholesale.com, Illumn.com, IMRbatteries.com are 3 legit sources for quality brand names.
Charger (good nuf)
I've got a heavily modified Tevo Tornado. There are lots of nice, inexpensive printers available, like the Monoprice Mini Delta
It's not sold by ThorFire, but the Q8 would be a difficult light to counterfeit. It's probably legit. If you don't trust that, try ordering from here and using the code M4DQ8. I'm not sure if that coupon code still works though, or what the price is.
This was a cheap DSA set that I bought off of banggood, on my ducky one with mx browns.
The keys feel pretty nice, a rough PBT texture with pad printed legends. They're nice and thick, so the sound is amazing! As an added bonus I can now also see the notification LEDs (num, caps etc) due to the lowered profile of the R4 caps.
Your Surefire lights may have been decent but overpriced in 2013.
Compared to what you can get now they are merely ok to mediocre.
You need to switch from disposable primary lithium cells to rechargeable Li-Ion.
Have you looked at a BLF A6 yet?
With the Convoy clip it is a very nice deep carry.
BLF A6 (5A tint) @ $20.95 US warehouse
Convoy Deep Pocket Clip
^Prices ^checked ^04-25-2018
^All ^video ^reviews ^are ^by ^reddit ^user ^spaced_inv8r
Anne Pro is the standard answer. It's cheap enough that you can buy cool keycaps with your budget to go with it.
I own a WL Toys P929. It's a fast little sucker. It's pretty small (a bit smaller than my hand), but I haven't seen the Losi Micro T or Desert Truck in real life so I don't know how it compares. I turn my Amazon shipping boxes into ramps and jump it around in my living room.
Of course :) I'd be happy to. I also think it's pretty darn neat.
It was listed as a "5A DC-DC Adjustable Step Down Power Supply Module Constant Voltage Current Dual LCD Display Screen"
The output voltage you set it to stays constant, regardless of input voltage, unless of course it drops lower than the input voltage.
You can set the current limit as well to keep the device cool and or protect from over-current
It has a USB output which only works if you set the output voltage to 5.5V or lower, otherwise it will not turn on to keep from damaging your device.
It can handle a maximum of 5 amps or 75W output
I just placed an order for a 35MM miniature fan to mount on it along with a cool little on-off switch for the fan. In the summer heat here (100F+) I think it's probably a good idea, even though I won't ever be pulling more than 1.8 amps through it.
Yeah! A lot. In fact i wrote this comment under Wraith Prism subject. And there was 6 people who downvoted immediately. Now i've got two downvotes. Here my suggestion:
"I think this new Wraith Prism looks cool but AMD might improve their design further. We know it performs decent and it looks great. This stock cooler already set the bar really high. It's a great upgrade when you consider older stock coolers. I think AMD can improve its cosmetic aspects even more by adding tiny leds on one of the fan blade. Just look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClKkFQ0szVQ
I think adding 4-5 led one blade and adding additional control on Ryzen Master might be a great and unique feature. You can see clock frequency, heat or even you can customize what ever you want to see on fan. I don't think this would add unreasonable cost. This thing is already avaliable as cheap usb fan (https://www.banggood.com/Mini-USB-Flexible-Gooseneck-LED-Fan-Light-For-PC-Laptop-p-1041251.html?rmmds=buy)
I know it's a dumb request and people hate RGB leds on computer parts. But come on! It looks cool. If you don't want it then disable it. Look how awesome Wraith prism is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDUh4--CLSk
I don't know why you downvoted my comment but i don't give a damn about your hatred towards RGB led lights. This is just an idea for Wraith Prism successor in next years Zen2 based Ryzen 7 3700X CPU. If you don't like RGB lights just turn it off."
This was the comment that downvoted.
u/ironmew scelgo te!! che dovrebbe essere l'esperto di droni qui.
Ho una domanda per te, ho comprato un furibee f36 con 3 batterie, non volendo spendere molto (per il momento) per un caricatore, volevo sapere: questo svolge il compito per cui è predisposto senza infamia e senza lode?
Se hai altri consigli senza discostarsi molto dal prezzo sono qui che pendo dai tuoi commenti. :)
They're OOS right now, but you want a Q8. Emisar is working on a D7: 7 emitters, 3x18650. I have no idea when it'll be finished though.
If you need any help backing up your opinion, the Atomic Beam host is sold under another name for $7 and is more than likely the same flashlight. The driver and LED may be slightly different between the two, but I wouldn't want to spend the money putting them side by side comparing the beam. Putting the pictures side by side you can see that the only difference is the brand name on the tube.
I got it from here, choose Expedited Shipping Service for faster shipping :D
What kind of general use are we talking? We can get a better idea of what would fit you best if you filled out the recommendation form linked to the right ----->
You can get a Lumintop Tool with a Nichia LED from Gearbest or Banggood for under $20 US. I'm guessing that's less than $50AUD. It's a single AAA light with a mechanical tail switch. The light tint and cri should be nice. I can't say much about it from personal experience, mine comes in Friday, but from everything I've read about it, it's a great little light.
I'll try to add links when I'm not on mobile later.
Edited with links
I did have some custom blank keycaps on it in the past but now only the escape is custom. I have put o-rings on it though.
Other than that it's the stock. non-backlit magicforce68 :)
EDIT: Here is alink to the cherry blossom keycaps
EDIT2: Thanks to the kind person who downvoted my helpful response.
Better solution would be:
Plum Audio DSO150 kit
JYETech DSO-SHELL DSO150 self assemble oscillator
Additional components from Mouser: £23
Total just over £60 + time for assembly.
+1 for the Mf01s, one of my favorites. It won't outperform the M2 in lumens, though. The 6500K version has about the same as the M2, but the 4000K version creates a wall of beautiful high cri light at the cost of some output, which is totally worth it imo. And it can use flat tops aswell. Imo a much better light than the M2.
If you only care about output, maybe check out the new Haikelite HK07 with over 20k lumens, which can be bought for under 90$ with a coupon from blf.
I'll do it in a few days. Have to clean up the code since I wrote it midnight and it's very messy. Until than you can get some ws2812/neopixels. I used this, (can I share such links here?) but it works with 4 leds cut off a neopixel strip too.
>When she zoomed the light in that was when I knew I wanted it.
That's when most of us here would tell you to stay away from it.
Zoomies are... generally a poor idea, from the standpoint of things like output efficiency, build quality, colour temperature, and CRI.
There's really no way of knowing which one you saw, but I'd say the majority of them are overpriced clones of ~$4 Romisen designs.
If you want to light something up at a distance, get the BLT GT mini or - the cheaper but not quite as pocketable option - an Astrolux C8 in neutral (~5000k) white.
In my collection, two flashlights that fit what you described are the EagleEye X5 vs the Thrunite TN12.
Regarding price justifications, there could be hidden design features in the $50 flashlight that's not in the $20 flashlight. Thermal regulation is one example. Also, the $50 flashlight might come from a company that can provide support and warranty if it fails. And sometimes an established brand name can simply command higher prices.
Regarding buyer's remorse, that's just life - you don't know everything about everything, and you'll get burned once in a while. It's like the people who buy that $50 bear blinding flashlight, and then they learn it's a cheapo $7 flashlight.
Convoy S2+ with Biscotti firmware. You can do a one time configuration to set it to single mode. You probably want the 7135x4 option, that should put you right around 500 lumens. Link: https://www.banggood.com/Gray-Convoy-S2-SST20-LED-Flashlight-18650-Flashlight-Camping-Light-Hunting-Emergency-Lantern-p-1420655.html
The flashlight doesn't have USB recharging built in, but you can use this: https://www.banggood.com/LUMINTOP-LM34C-Micro-USB18650-Protected-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-p-1089980.html
So this is a bit of a weird one, and until a week ago I knew nothing about flashlights, but now I know just enough to be dangerous. So I'm sorry if this is inappropriate.
I was looking around at various sites and forums and ended up on the EU warehouse site from banggood, specifically on the BLF A6. Not the best deal I've seen by itself, but I noticed the offered to throw in this light for free*.
Only A1 available for both lights.
A bit of googling revealed that this the notorious CPF Italia Cometa, and a bit more research tells me that despite all the issues this is still an interesting light for the enthousiast.
So this seems like a pretty good deal to me, but not for the faint of heart, and as I said I know basically nothing, so maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in on why this is or isn't a good deal.
^(* it ships from a separate warehouse so you end up paying shipping on it.)
You can always buy a short tube to use the GT with 4x18650.
>To me there's not much difference there, am I wrong?
Not quite. The Catapult has a boost driver in it to run the XHP35. This means constant brightness as the battery drains, as opposed to the brightness changing quickly as the voltage drops with the D1S.
What about this light, with this clip and diffuser?
I can't say how reliable these are yet, but the Blitzwolf has USB output, and all you need is a cheap charger to plug in to it.
I got my panel on sale for $18, and there are much better charger/powerbanks, but I was skeptical of the panel, so I didn't want to invest too much upfront. I used it last camping trip, and with that panel it's easiest to not let your batteries get too low but it works surprisingly well.
Bought these for the Convoy C8+. Some people said they didn't work correctly with Biscotti firmware. I don't know if they changed anything on the C8+ or not, but it works perfect. Every function works fine, including the long press direct to moonlight mode.
Before installing, I had the light set to mode grp 2. After installing the lighted switch, the flashlight defaulted back to mode group 1. Simply reprogrammed it back to mode group 2 with memory on.
I can't claim to be a tremendous expert, nor do I have any inside information, but looking back to the history of it, people raged about the 2014 models because the mode spacing was absolute crap. After two years of production, and likely slower sales, they wised up, listened to their customers, and released a light with firmware that took full advantage of the really awesome hardware it's coupled to. The public responded accordingly, it's a commonly recommended light, and while the emitter technology may not be bleeding-edge, it'll likely do everything you need. I carried one for a year, and it served me very well. Any hypothetical upgrade would only make minor changes, I don't think enough to worry about holding back.
If you are interested in a cheaper light with slightly better specs than the TN12, check out a BLF A6, which is what I've replaced my TN12 with. It's currently on sale, tops out at 1600 lumen, and most critically to me, allows you to go up or down in brightness levels without cycling through all of them. Downsides are it has slower access to strobe, and doesn't have a momentary-on feature like the TN12 (single-button reverse clicky, as opposed to the TN12's dual-button forward clicky.) However, the A6 is currently on sale for $27 shipped, and from a user experience perspective is a much nicer light, even if the build quality is ever so slightly less. I'm sure you'd be happy with either.
The Astrolux MF01 is similar, though it doesn't have a boost driver. It still comes in a 219C variant (though I think it's only 80 CRI), and has a tripod hole.
Something like this with a single cell lipo battery and charger. Then you just need a 5.8 receiver/screen
Keycaps used for this combination:
The keyboard itself is an Anne Pro
If the flood and high CRI of the Emisar interest you, maybe a wannabe D4, the S14?
Basically garbage, but if you really want one you can get it for about 6 bucks....
With that budget, the only thing i can think of is the Anne Pro.
It has an Android/iOS app to control key layouts and lighting. The bluetooth can be very frustrating to pair on a lot of devices though, so unless your device is one of the ones it works well with (and no, there is no list of them) it can be a pain.
I got mine setup in the layout I wanted and just use it wired now.
You're going to need a soldering iron, solder, and maybe flux. A multimeter definitely helps with problems that may arise. Screwdrivers, maybe needle nose pliers. Silicone wire.
Easiest way is to buy a host or you can buy a working flashlight and just change out the driver and LED.
Here are some hosts: https://www.banggood.com/search/flashlight-host.html
Depending on what you want, you order an LED on an MCPCB, and a driver. Sizes depend on the host used.
mtnelectronics.com is popular for LEDs and drivers in the USA.
kaidomain.com and fasttech.com are popular for parts but shipping can take awhile.
Since you are comfortable with a bigger light, you should definitely go for a 18650 light. Banggood has a really good price on the BLF A6 and a Samsung INR18650-30Q.
Watch this video review for info regarding the light. I've got two of them, and for the price they kick ass. A little bit too big (and the clip sucks) for a permanent home in my pockets, but one of them has lived in my backpack for about a year. No problem using it with thick gloves. Brightness from moonlight to really bright
If you are doing an A6 its probably a better deal to get the A6 that includes the 30q.
All you'd need is something like this to connect to the camera. The camera in this thread will work with pretty much any fpv transmitters out there, most will even supply a regulated 5V for powering it. To power the transmitter you will need to either splice the camera/tx in with your rc tanks power system(assuming its the correct voltage, 3.2-5.5V for this specific model) or power it with a separate small 1 cell lipo.
For the receiving end, you can get something like this that will connect to your phone to display the received signal. Or the easier way would be to just buy a set of fpv goggles that has a receiver and screen built in, like this
Astrolux A01. These should be $10 or less (it's offering me $8, but might not if you haven't ordered from Banggood before). Try coupon code RD10OFF too. Pay the 50 cents or so for a tracking number.
These have decent output from 1 AAA battery and excellent color quality from their Nichia 219B emitter.
So you won't need the Hue for this, but ST makes things nice and easy (using CoRE to automate these for my kitchen cabinets is awesome).
It's tricky. You need to search around for the firmware package on that thread. Then you'll see where people bought the programming module. H-801 modules you can get anywhere - Amazon is quick but expensive, and you can snag them for like $5 on aliexpress.
The programming module - you absolutely 99% need the right one. A lot of sellers don't guarantee you get the right one. It MUST say "FTDI" not "YP-05" on it (I actually did get the YP one working, but everyone tells me that I could have broken everything.
Also - These arilux controllers work as well: https://www.banggood.com/ARILUX-AL-LC02-Super-Mini-LED-WIFI-APP-Controller-Dimmer-for-RGBW-LED-Strip-Light-DC-9-12V-p-1060222.html?rmmds=search You still need to flash them via the method described in the thread, but it'll work.
You set up the wifi and everything, install the device handler and the excellent smartapp, and it should automatically detect it.
EDIT - this thing will also help you reprogram other H-801 controllers, AND sonoff controllers. Sonoff controllers go for like $5, and make for cheap, reliable smart plugs with minimal wiring.
Anne Pro with Gateron Brown
Pok3r with Cherry Brown
People will mostly recommend these as 60% keyboards for people to get.
As someone who's tried both, I much prefer the anne, because gateron switches are my preference, but to each their own.