What are /r/sffpc's favorite Products & Services?

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Why did I do this?

I got a Surface Go for doing lightweight work, but sometimes I need more power. So with this setup, I have a small tablet for portability and plug in my Velka 7 build when I need to something more demanding.

How did you do this?

At first I used the Genki Shadowcast to use my Surface Go as a display. This was a decent setup, but there's a lot of drawbacks such as not being able to use the Surface Type Cover as an input and it being only 720p.

Then I realize that I could easily get what I wanted with a simple ethernet cable. Using Moonlight, I can stream directly between my Surface Go and desktop through a ethernet cable. I already had a USB-C hub with ethernet on hand and an ethernet cable, but I needed a headless display emulator so that there would be a display to output. I went with this one on Amazon and it worked perfectly. I could even set a custom resolution to match my Surface Go's display.

The setup was as easy as plugging in the USB-C Hub, then plugging in the ethernet cable in between each PC. Sometimes Moonlight needs to be restarted to detect my desktop, but once it does it works as intended. I also tested this on a Chromebook and it works, but only if you use the Android app. Other streaming app might also work using this method, but I haven't tested them out.

What's the spec of your Velka 7 build?
Currently using some parts I had from my previous build, but I'll probably get around to upgrading to Ryzen and 30 series GPU (whenever the price comes down).

• i5-7600k OC at 4.0Ghz
• RTX 2060 Super
• 2tb Samsung Evo NVMe
• Corsair SF600 PSU
• 16GB HP V8 RGB DDR4
• Noctua NH-L9i

Portable monitors are a thing. Not fordable, but only using a USB-C for power and data is pretty cool. I use one with my laptop for programming and I am fairly impressed.

example

Not small enough to fit in that bag, however.

Not OP but the standoffs look to be common floating mirror/glass mounts and the glass can be purchased at most any hardware store - sheet glass not tempered - then scored and cut to size. This appears to be what OP did looking at the edge of the glass towards the back of the build, but I'm not 100% sure. Could also use an acrylic sheet and cut it to size.

I would attempt to hydro dip it in a galaxy theme.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0733QTLY8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4E77DbG042YX8

A product similar to this. Then during the build, I would do slow pulsing RGB to mimic the Galaxy.

Hey man, consider using these antennas. I've seen them get recommended a bunch of times on this subreddit and I've placed an order for myself.

You can also get a pair of 90 degree rp-sma adapters if you don't want the antennas to stick out straight.

It’s actually fine, the face plate fits back over the carnage and you can’t even tell.

Case is here

I got the keyboard off eBay but you can get it here

The keyboard is definitely awesome and unique! Has quite a bit of weight to it from the leather and aluminum sides. It has both wireless (Bluetooth) and can connect / charge via USB type-C. Also it can be backlit too! Battery life is about 6 months use without the lighting.

IMO, the keyboard is somewhat odd for a mechanical. It uses a modified set of Kailh Blue switches but uses a non-MX standard stem. So only the keycaps that come with the keyboard will fit. Typing on it is great and comfy but my only concern is that if the keys wear out over time I may be on a long hunt to find some replacements.

edited cause grammar

Merry Christmas to you too :) the case is this one https://amazon.com/dp/B07RTRL51J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KRCaEbBR57S8M

Fits my Anne pro 2 and Logitech travel mouse perfectly with enough room for cables :)

Edit: shout out to u/Jhambone9190 for the idea to use the printer case

I Just built a portable system using the Antec ISK 110 U3.

It's a really well made case, and online pics don't do it justice.

I have a Velka 3 with the Athena Power 500W FlexATX (6+8 PCIe) PSU. It was pretty annoying stock, so I changed it to use the Noctua 40x10 FLX fan. Night and day difference, like small handheld vacuum to whisper quiet kind of difference. I ended up using the included Omni-join vampire clips and some electrical tape, but a better solution might be to do a little snip + solder work for the fan connector.

Considering I have a Ryzen 5 3600 + Vega56 Nano (on power save), it rarely pulls over 200W, and I've seen peaks of maybe right under 300W. Put it through some nights of WoW Classic @ 1440p upscaled to 4K (max settings), never got super hot or loud. I do also have the top fans from Velka, and they seem to help... lots of warm air coming out up top.

I was a bit sad prior to the Noctua mod, now I absolutely love this little thing. This is the portable 4K IPS monitor for those wondering, it's awesome as is the 1080p version. They both support FreeSync, can be powered via USB-C, and have built-in speakers.

I just got the Atomic Pi SBC from Amazon for $35 which has Intel Z8350 + 2GB + 16GB EMMC. Should be fine for some Reddit, Youtube and some coding.

https://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Pi-High-Speed-Peripherals/dp/B07N298F2B/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=atomic+pi&qid=1558243139&s=gateway&sr=8-1

It's not really SFF but I think the heatsink can be replaced with a smaller one to make it more compact.

I'm trying to get Windows To Go on this working right now.

I got these (not OP). Make sure you order 2 sets because it comes with 2 but different sides, so you need a set of 2.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P3JDQNC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon US NF-A9x14

Amazon US NF-A9 25mm

This is what he means.

It's about 30 bucks and will make sure a faulty cable pinout will only blow a PSU (worst case) rather then your whole system.

Check out /r/pcsleeving for all your tutorial needs.

It's impressive for sure, I definitely won't deny that, nicely done! I also saw mention that you've had that hardware since 2013 so I wouldn't dare fault you for that setup but for anyone else that is interested in pursuing a similar setup in under 3 liters, it is worth mentioning that the new AMD 3400G APU would likely provide similar performance (it's ever so slightly faster than the 2400G), with less demands on power.

The 2400G APU was a worthy competitor to the 750TI and it fits perfectly in a Chopin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJZgXuMvGsE

It's pretty impressive how well these APUs can perform. It's just too bad the 3400G isn't on 7nm. Maybe the next-gen APU will see an greater bump in performance too.

Geek SK61 . I lubed and filmed the switches, and replaced the escape button

Can’t find the exact one I bought but there are number on Amazon. This is basically it: https://www.amazon.com/Kuman-Capacitive-Display-Raspberry-SC7B/dp/B01F3801A2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=7”+monitor&qid=1627874717&sr=8-5

I bought mine for $166 shipped to the USA from Amazon germany (sold directly by Amazon). You can use your normal account.

There was a recent thread about this and someone contacted Corsair about both compatibility and warranty and both work in the US. You just have to put a US plug in it from another power supply/monitor/etc.

Because the fan controller is expecting both fans, the card sees the missing fan on the second header as a fan failure and runs the card in emergency mode, which runs the functional fan at 100% all the time to try make up for the (assumed) non-functional fan.

Either connect to the motherboard and control using userspace software like the amazing and free FanControl, or get a second adapter and connect the second fan to the second port rather than splitting them both off the first port.

Your old monitor doesn't have HDMI, only VGA input, is that correct? Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/

Note this Q&A: > Q: What is the fuction of the dc and audio jack? if i didnt connect that it doesnt work? i need to connect this device to an ipad mini > A: HDMI carries video and sound. VGA carries only video and no sound. Without the audio jack, you will lose the sound in the conversion. To get the sound you need to connect the audio jack to a speaker. The dc is to get power from USB if needed to drive high powered displays

Really though, listen to the other comments and just get a new monitor. 1080p 144hz monitors are cheap. https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/onetu6/monitor_aoc_24g2_24_frameless_gaming_ips_monitor/?depth=3

Thanks for the idea! I hate my shark fine Asus. So clunky. How's the reception? My router is in my room.

I was about to get these:

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Motherboard-Transmitter-Thinkcentre-Omnidirectional/dp/B08CNK9BGF/ref=sr_1_59?crid=XJ55Z5T6P54B&dchild=1&keywords=tiny+wifi+antenna&qid=1620450462&sprefix=tiny+wifi+an%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-59

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I'm sure they're better than what you got but I'll wait to hear your results.

Amazon link

Some notes

It perfectly lines up with the side fans, I used Corsair ML120.

Peak temps on my 8700k (delidded) on stock clocks were 63 degrees, keep in mind the fans were inaudible unless you put your ear next to it. Fans were both intake.

No it was actually super simple, I cannibalized a volume knob off Amazon by removing the housing, and when the I realized the PCB inside was pretty small, I decided to drill a hole in the front panel that would fit the knob and used a DIY USB Micro -> USB 2.0 Header cable to connect it to the PC.

This is the knob:

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537240037&sr=8-5&keywords=volume+knob

I used superbuy, a service that allows you to ship Chinese items to a warehouse where they forward them to you, as far as guides go i just winged it i used google translate on text and yandex for images with text.

RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK G68 RGB 65% Wired/Bluetooth/2.4G Wireless Mechanical Keyboard, 60% 68 Keys for Mac Windows, Hot Swappable Keyboard Gateron Blue Switch, Dolch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCPN4TM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TMQ34VK33P8XY0F2Q1ZV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah Gigabyte is a bit weird this gen, they don't seem to be putting much value into the Type C headers, if I had to guess, I'd say they might be skipping the internal header on B550 so they could put more high speed type-A ports on the back I/O panel since B550 chipset is kinda stingy with the number of available USB port (at least compared to X570).

Worth it to note that the Gigabyte board still have the regular USB 3 internal header, so if you like the Gigabyte boards but absolutely must have a Type C header to use with your case, you could always just buy one of these adapters: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cablecc-Socket-Extension-Adapter-Motherboard/dp/B086MRDQFY/

Literally put "LGA 1150 ITX" into Amazon and this was the first result:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Mini-Motherboard-Q87T-CSM/dp/B00FYMXEI4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lga+1150+itx&qid=1562000193&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I just did a quick search and found these

https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-Splitter-Adapter-Sleeved-Graphics/dp/B07T95C68T

They look somewhat like the headers on the cooler I have. Does this look like the adapter you used?

These ones did. I also have a gigabyte mobo with the weird antenna and I replaced it with this: Protronix 2dBi RP-SMA Antenna for Wireless Card or Router (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N32TB9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZyDdFb28K7RM0

What started off as my first PC build eventually led me down the SFF rabbit hole. Received the ID Cooling IS-47k and Noctua a9x14 last week and installed it on my ASRock B450 and Ryzen 5 1600AF combo. I did notice that the stock mount on the 47k wasn't the tightest and that affected the performance quite a bit, so I added the Noctua backplate and screws from the Noctua mounting kit ($8 on amazon). Overall I am pretty happy with the cooler as it looks great in the case and resulted in a pretty significant drop in temps under load compared to the wraith stealth.

The one bonus of the IS-47K over the IS-60 and blackridge which also fits the SM550 is that it doesn't require low profile RAM. I would note the heatsink slightly touches the wifi shroud on the mobo.

Here are my results with the cpu fan on intake, SM550 case fans as exhaust, and both vented side panels. I would caveat that I am by no means an experienced PC tester and YMMV.

Wraith Stealth

3.7 @ 1.2v: 31 degrees idle and 74 degrees stressed

3.8 @ 1.35v: throttles at 100 degrees

IS-47K with Stock Mount

3.7 @ 1.2v: 40 degrees idle and 79 degrees stressed

3.9 @ 1.35v: 40 degrees idle and 90 degrees stressed

IS-47K with Noctua Backplate

3.7 @ 1.2v: 30 degrees idle and 65 degrees stressed

3.9 @ 1.35v: 30 degrees idle and 82 degrees stressed

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EDIT: Used the Noctua L9i to L9a mounting kit. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NM-AM4-L9aL9i-Mounting-NH-L9a-Platforms/dp/B073PXM4P8

Out of curiosity, have you thought about utilizing that pcie slot for storage with something like this?

I bought from a local seller, but essentially it is this LCD: https://www.amazon.com/Elecrow-800x480-Interface-Supports-Raspberry/dp/B013JECYF2

The board is a generic/non-branded XPT2046, which afaik uses Elecrow's drivers.

Connect to your graphics card via HDMI and to your motherboard via micro-USB. Regular usb cable will work. I used a cable that terminated into a dupont header https://www.amazon.com/Duttek-2-Pack-Motherboard-Adapter-Extended/dp/B072Q1MBSG/ so I don't use up a port.

It is plug-and-play for Windows 10 and Mac and functions just like any monitor (no touch tho). I haven't figured out if I can get touch to work.

Thanks! Bought it for the M1, but it is nice enough to use anytime and fits a good amount of stuff. Right now carrying my M1, snacks, Sony M1000X in its case, my Samsung Chromebook Pro, DSXL, 2 magazines and other random trinkets.

Not a lot of padding though, but even with padding I was going to baby it so I figured it wasn't a problem.

Here is the link to the bag from the Amazon app...

Damn, mine didn't come with the little carry strap... Then again mine was only $50. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Edit: here's my exact one, not sure why it's so pricey on Amazon though... https://www.amazon.com/London-Fog-Langley-Wheel-Under/dp/B074PHX9VR.

BTW I found mine for $50 at the PX, so if any of y'all wanna check there, might be worth it.

I've seen people suggesting these PCI-E to NVMe adapters for this case. That way you still get to utilize the x16 (or in this case, x8 bandwidth) slot for storage.

You can work this out with 26€ via Amazon actually with an actual steel mount (yes it does fit even the small DAN A4, since it can change size): https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0037A0ZJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should be able to change the your fan speed curves in BIOS.

In BIOS, while in Advanced Mode, pressing F6 should bring you to QFan Control, it's where you should be able to set a fan curve for your fans. You might need to change the AIO Pump Header and SYS Fan Headers to PWM mode first, and that can be done in "Monitor" Tab in the BIOS.

Software wise, ASUS has their own software called AISuite/FanXpert, if you are inclined to use their clunk.

Personally, I use a software called FanControl after setting the headers to all PWM in BIOS.

Hope that helps!

also charge the iphone at the same time…got it for 10$

Wireless Charger, 3 in 1 Wireless Charging Pad with Magnetic Charger Compatible for Apple Watch 5/4/3/2/1, Fast Charging Station Compatible with iPhone 11/XR/XS/X/8P/8, Samsung S20/Note10/, AirPods https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087F7NYLD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_62769SXYZ6AHBWJYJ0Q2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You could always buy/salvage a fan grill similar to this

https://www.amazon.com/Qiying-5Pcs120mm-Black-Protect-Grill/dp/B082D7NF84/ref=zg_bs_11036301_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=29ZAJ31ZYN8P22KGQ21K

Inland Platinum 4TB SSD M.2 2280 NVMe PCIe Gen 3.0x4 3D NAND Internal Solid State Drive, PCIe Express 3.1 and NVMe 1.3 Compatible, Ultimate Gaming Solutions for PC Computer Laptops (4TB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FT8LFNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KSYQNG6MFXJVZQP0ZCJN

It’s about $60 more than a 2.5 ssd.

The only way to tell them apart is a different sticker on the box. The old one said "15% fanless", new one says "100% japanese capacitors".
Old one : https://www.amazon.com/Efficiency-Included-Suitable-Mini-ITX-Computer/dp/B08NSYF445/ref=sr\_1\_4?dchild=1&keywords=v850+sfx&qid=1623140265&sr=8-4
New one : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LP6WS35?pf\_rd\_r=SA8DR11ZA7JGADAWP401&pf\_rd\_p=6fc81c8c-2a38-41c6-a68a-f78c79e7253f&pd\_rd\_r=29bdfeca-3237-4a36-ba8d-11d4be000cee&pd\_rd\_w=SqIav&pd\_rd\_wg=QNSAo&ref\_=pd\_gw\_unk

I have these ones (edit: the ones you linked) and I love them. They'll easily do 100 mbps from my desk to the router ~30 ft and two walls away.

I would also add these for extra low profile goodness! https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DC2374L/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's a small gap between the fan and card, enough so that I adhered a clear adhesive bumper pad on the corner of the front fan so the card doesn't sag.

The bottom 15mm fans are definitely worthwhile for me as the GPU can stay in zero rpm mode, even at times being sufficient enough for games like Cyberpunk (GPU fans start spinning at 60c and it peaks at 56c with only the 15mm fans spinning).

One thing I don't like is the stock dust filter on the bottom. It really doesn't do anything in preventing dust build up. I ended up buying these and found the case no longer has any dust build up inside.

Looks so smoll and cute I liked it. But you should condsider buy a mesh. This case's mesh has really big holes and 4 or 6 months later I can't imagine the dust amount it will get. I guess its size covers that case here: Link

This is what I have and it’s showing dual rank in CPU-Z

Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) 3200MHz C16 DDR4 DRAM Memory Kit – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016ORTNI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_.rS0FbH5RK6GN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Second on the Silverstone SG13B.

Rocking an 8700k Delidded, Corsair H75 AiO, ASRock Z370 Fatality MoBo, Seasonic 850w ATX PSU, Samsung 960 EVO SSD, and an EVGA 1080ti SC2 GPU, 32GB GSkill Ripjaw 3200 RAM

Runs cool. Like no greater than 60°c cool (for the most part)

Still have room for 3 SSDs or a 3.5" HDD and one 2.5" SSD

With an ATX PSU you can fit either a 120mm AiO or a 60mm tall low-profile cooler.

With an SFX PSU (and ATX SFX adapter) you get about 75mm or so clearance for an air cooler.

$45 right now on amazon.

SilverStone Technology Ultra Compact Mini-ITX Computer Case with Mesh Front Panel in Black SG13B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CDLS631/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5HEfBb6KG9579

Not for a reasonable price, but it can be found on amazon with 1 seller. The seller also doesn't have stellar reviews.

My guess is the price is inflated due to including shipping from overseas once it's ordered.

No name brand mobile display. It was at $271 when I got it, but they've jacked the price up to $340 now.

I picked this one because it was a 17" screen and had decent reviews. I will eventually go for a larger non-portable display at some point, but this is what I need for now.

Other than that, I don't really have much to say about it positive or negative yet.

Not sure how practical it is but I like the simplistic idea of a tube like this with a 140mm+ fan at the bottom and one at the top with passively cooled components like Silverstone's Nightjar PSU and NoFan's CPU cooler.

Not sure of your time frame, but the Coolermaster NR200 is going to be a nice case. I originally ordered that one, but it was pushed back to September and I didn't want to wait. That case is going to be the go to case in the future for SSF entry builds, but the real reason of my going to SSF is to take my VR setup on the road, so it's a lil too big for that anyways.

I decided to go with SilverStone's Raven RVZ02

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Mini-ITX-Computer-RVZ02B-W/dp/B07KTCJGHG?th=1

I got it yesterday and test fit went good. I went with the Corsair SF600 Platinum and their cables bend/conform into it nicely. I'm not sure when I'll be able to finish the build, because I'm too stubborn to buy a 3600 and I plan on waiting for my 3300X pre-order.

The ones that have RGB LEDs! Joke aside Fractal's Prisma series is pretty good and Corsair has a good option in the LL series. Personally I would get something like the Halo Lux and attach it to some Chromax black Noctua fans.

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-FF120RGBA_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/dp/B074Q56LFS

Might want to consider a chinese aluminum case. Something like this

you can physically take apart an ipad for the monitor. see: https://lifehacker.com/turn-an-ipad-s-lcd-screen-into-an-extra-screen-for-your-1588804186

Printed. The second piece of the case will be printed seperately (just need to get my buddies printer set up and get some filament ready to go).

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https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/6-6l-mini-itx-pc-case

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Here's the link to the original design. Also waiting for a full on powerbutton to arrive.
I probably will likely add in an rgb led strip as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NB9FX67
Had to order 2 sets since the ROG 3070 Ti uses 3x 8-pin connectors. Afterwards, threw on a ROG sticker included with the mobo to make it look nicer.

1home Economical CPU Holder Under-Desk PC Holder Desktop Computer Holder Computer Case Carrier Steel Adjustable Straps Computer Tower Mount Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJQ6QV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CSPG977HMYWKAVEXG3PN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the link I highly recommend it build quality is fantastic and it also packs a lot of sound for it's size

yes you can use usb 3.0 powered hdmi portable monitor

like this

Eyoyo Portable Computer Monitor 4K Gaming Monitor 13.3 inch 3840x2160 UHD IPS Display USB-C Monitor

https://www.amazon.com/Eyoyo-Portable-1920x1080-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B07RPTLD99

use asrock a300/x300 usb port

I tried the U9S very briefly in my C26 with the 5800x and it was pretty bad. If you want a good tower cooler, I would highly suggest the Thermalright Assassin King 120 Mini or Silver Arrow 130. I'm using the Ak 120 Mini with dual NF F12 Chromaxes and, at 135 mm, it's been amazing. Idle is around 31-33 and it hasn't gone beyond 75C in testing or in game.

It is a touch screen but I don’t have it hooked up as the switch is blocking the USB port for the touch data lines. I’ll link the screen bought it off Amazon. I tried 4 different ones, this one had the best viewing angles. It doesn’t turn off the back light so I disabled USB devices in the bios. Next I am going to wire the power up to a data plug that will go directly to the psu... that way I can use my USBs to charge all my peripherals...

7” lcd screen

Just preordered three of these on the German Amazon (for anyone interested: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08QDKGCCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_DakaGbXJGWPEB), they’re said to release next week. They cost just under 9€, that’s pretty good.

I used the screen included in this kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XBVF1C9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_q.R3FbTJVP8B2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It connects via HDMI and is powered by USB. I have cables routed through the case and exit at an opening in the case bottom where they connect into the rear I/O and graphics card.

Right now, the screen is literally just wedged into the case and is sandwiched between my PSU cables and the glass front panel. If I remove the front panel, it’ll probably get a little crooked again and need readjustment. Thankfully I don’t open the case often haha.

The status icons are run by Rainmeter, more specifically the Sonder skin. Rainmeter can be A bit finicky to set up, but by far the most customizable way to get status icons. Here is a close up of it. https://i.imgur.com/uqHoLo0.jpg

The crucial ballistix 32 gb kits are dual rank. The have been found on Amazon as low as $91 recently. Crucial Ballistix 3200 MHz DDR4 DRAM Desktop Gaming Memory Kit 32GB (16GBx2) CL16 BL2K16G32C16U4B (Black)

It looks very similar to this panel that I have, at least the screw mounts match up for the "stand". It's a great tiny monitor for what it's worth! Full hdmi too and powdered via USB makes it great for this project.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VNX4ZWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_bD2QFbEBTT79P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0728DX73X

It fits the HDPLEX 400 in perfectly.

EDIT: With the HDPLEX you can use any brick you would like pretty much. I have 230w and 330w ones off amazon.

EDIT2: With no overclocking my Ryzen 1700 and 1030gt only hit 121.6watts on the meter

The LP53 isn't discontinued. You can still buy it off of amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Thermolab-LP53-Quiet-Cooler-Intel/dp/B00LE37DDY/

The black version's on Amazon for $100.

I just went with this when I upgraded my gpu to a 1660 super lmao. https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-AngledPower-Adapter-Desktops-Graphics/dp/B07P3JDQNC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=8+pin+gpu+90&qid=1596386128&sr=8-4

Put some real magnets on the side panels instead of the adhesive ones they use. I used these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAL9I5H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (Edit: I just super glued like 4 on each side of each panel and it feels sturdy.)

Some people put different feet on if you don’t like the blocky ones it comes with.

If you’re good with cable management you can fit a 120mm exhaust fan under the PSU.

Building it is straightforward with the couple videos on their website.

There are lots on Amazon. I got these as these were Prime (and in stock):

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi guys! I want to introduce my new workstation.

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It took a while to figure out the best cable management. Especially 3090 FE is way too huge. So I have added 30cm standoffs on the PCI-E riser and switch the mobo to the 4-slot mode.

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The temps are a little bit warm, but I think it acceptable. I've tried the AIO as intake and exhaust. It turns out the intake is 10°C warmer than the exhaust.

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Idle temps / max temp (Running with OctaneBench & CineBench)

• CPU - 50~60°C / 70~75°C
• GPU - 40~50°C / 65~70°C

Specs

• AMD Ryzen 5950X
• ASUS ROG Strix X570-I
• G.Skill 3600C DDR4 32G X 2
• NVIDIA Geforce RTX 3090 FE
• NZXT Z63
• CoolMaster SFX V850
• WD SN850 1TB + WD SN750 1TB
• Custom power cables from the local store
• 1.5 cm speaker feet

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If you are interested, here are my specs and more photos! I would appreciate it if anyone has some suggestions!

I have a similar setup that requires a mac for work and pc for games. I use synergy to allow for a single keyboard/mouse setup/ simultaneous use. https://symless.com/synergy

Nice. I think it probably doesn't provide enough cooling... however, you seem to have a grip on your wattage used. If it's a PSU that throttles the fan based on wattage use, this is where the danger lies. Your PSU could just be stewing in the heat... but you are using the motherboard header so you have the ability to always juice that fan a little more.

I was warned against using the Noctua fans but like you said, you are aware of your use-case and it's obviously holding. I accidentally ordered another fan as well that is faily quiet and would work well on one of the Silverstone flex. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T13HV1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Supposedly this one meets the demands of the stock fan if you use the 2pin header.

I stumbled across a post on here of someone who had modified their Silverstone with it and it sounded a lot better. It could have been one of the FSP PSUs as well. I might end up popping on an extra flex psu someday just to modify it for silence and then find another cool 1u psu case to build another tiny computer in. I need to go back and find that post so I know what PSU this fan pairs with the best.

Glad your mod is working out though. I bet you could find a fan out there somehwere that is nice and quiet and has the strength needed to cool that restricted space fully. Since yours is holding you could just casually keep looking while you enjoy your current rig. It'd suck to have your psu crap out, potentially taking out other hardware with it.

Copying a relevant snippet from my other reply so you don't miss it: I bought this one way back when but I'm sure there are others like out there that work the same.

I'm not OP but been on T1 discussion since prelaunch days and the flow meter res hack has been a popular one for a while now (and for good cause!)

You've got the idea exactly right-- pick up one of the visual flow meter dealies and just remove the spinning bit. I bought this one way back when but I'm sure there are others like out there that work the same.

Looks like a K&F Concept

K&F Concept Camera Backpack DSLR Camera Bag Waterprrof Large Photography Bag for DSLR Cameras,14-15 inch Laptop,Tripod,Lenses https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TV1TSKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZEYBYNN4S4F3DY4CVN5R

by VGA do you mean pcie? I use this power supply in a non sff case. I don’t think I’ll ever use a full size atx power supply again no matter what I’m building tbh. The amount of room saved for cable management is nuts.

Compucleaner 2.0 -Durable ABS Plastic Electric High Compressed Air Duster - Computer Cleaner Blower - Keyboard Cleaner - Electronic Devices and Laptop Cleaner - Replaces Compressed Air Cans-White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07RKYWBD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_R0AEEBG87GHJWPEVQCXN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I use this and it’s safe, it’s designed for cleaning computers specifically. It’s just more eco-friendly and cheaper to own/use this rather than going through packs of compressed air cans every so often.

I use this Mousepad and an iqunix Keyboard, both super nice.

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https://www.amazon.de/CSL-%C3%9Cbergr%C3%B6%C3%9Fe-1200x600mm-Mousepad-Tischunterlage/dp/B08426BZJM/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?\_\_mk\_de\_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=desk+mat+titanwolf&qid=1625084889&sr=8-2-spons&...

I recommend the following adapters to make sure the cables dont get mushed against the sidepanel. These are the exact ones I bought and have been using for my 2080 TUF since I built it. :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NB9FX67/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o05\_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi everyone, I've recently upgraded from an i5-4590 to an i7-4770 on this PC. The problem is, the HP stock cooler is not good enough now. I can't just replace the cooler because the holes on the motherboard are too far apart so they don't line up, I've tried. Are there any coolers that would fit these unconventional mounting locations? Any other suggestions for lowering the temps is appreciated. Currently I'm running the stock fan almost at top speed and it's very loud, but the CPU still reaches 80°C. Also note that I'm in Italy so I may not have easy access to some components. I've looked into 70mm fans to replace the stock one but I only found this one, but I don't know how trustworthy this brand is. Thank you in advance for any replies.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AN45KU8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_i_DJH2M7BAX6BWHPN092KP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5S2ZY7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These have been used in multiple velka builds and can confirm it works on the formd t1

Is the fan on the BR blowing out of the case or in? You can get a marked improvement from pushing air towards the board as well as installing a noctua backplate. Check out the video series bt Glob3tech for a bunch of A4 testing and configs

https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-TX240-Ultra-Radiator-120mm/dp/B07FNXCLCJ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=xspc+240mm+slim&qid=1622290593&sr=8-2

This is probably the most popular to use. It's thin enough you use with 14mm thick fans and still have around 4-5 mm of space between them and your GPU

I'm not sure about the compatibility of D-itx motherboards like the impact with bottom mount radiators in the Ncase M1.

be careful with the suggestions you get. You need to be sure the dimensions of the matx board you're using will fit the case. matx boards vary is size in both length and width (particularly if they have 2 or 4 ram slots), so some cases will say they fit but require a SFX psu, or repositioning of ATX psu, or don't fit at all.

this applies to my suggestions too.

this one's breadbox style. about 16 liters. $50 amazon warehouse.

https://www.amazon.com/GOLDEN-FIELD-N-2S-Computer-Aluminium/dp/B075J9T9BL/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=golden+field&qid=1622403176&sr=8-6

this one tower style. about 18 liters. $70.

https://www.amazon.com/GOLDEN-FIELD-Computer-Cases-Shell/dp/B07F6WSNV5/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=golden+field&qid=1622403176&sr=8-3

I've used this mount: Ewent EW1503 https://www.amazon.es/dp/B00FVT7Y9A It comes with everything you need for fixing it to the wall. You could use the propietary Samsung wall fix system but I wanted to go with a VESA standard in case I want to change the TV in the future. That way I don't have to repeat the holes and move the mounting around.

I have both of those cases - have you tried a slim m2 heatsink? (something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Heatsinks-Silicone-Radiation-Dissipate/dp/B078X8WCY2)

What cpu and gpu do you have? I would recommend an air cooled setup rather than a 240mm AIO if you are mostly gaming.

Glad to hear that also here’s the specific dual fan splitter I used

I used a dual version of this to directly connect the two fans to the GPU so they would be controlled by the temperature but you could also connect them to your motherboard and create a custom fan curve to control them

The Omnitype’s are great mats.

Razer Doubleshot PBT Keycap Upgrade Set for Mechanical & Optical Keyboards: Compatible with Standard 104/105 US and UK layouts - Classic Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPRSWPZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_aaI9pCxB3jbD9

I would personally consider putting one of these: https://www.amazon.com/OKGEAR-120mm-Fan-Grill-Guard/dp/B005VRK5YS/ so that even though there is no dust or impedance to airflow, it makes it a bit harder for something to accidentally touch the fan blades when it's spinning, which can structurally weaken the blades as they're spinning pretty fast.

I tried to do this. I got a 10-port usb 3 powered hub (this one), and I constantly get keyboard and mouse disconnections. The range on my wireless ps4 controller went down to 18" plugging the receiver into it.

So it is certainly possible, and probably a great idea, but don't buy the hub I did. 1,784 Amazon reviews can be wrong.

get a 2 pin converter and toss a Noctua in there. I did it on my SF600 gold and it has been quiet ever since.

I completed this build in November, but I saw some instances of people putting sensor panels on the PSU cage. Found one that someone had already created in Rainmeter, and I happened to have installed hwinfo64 and RTSS already. I used this 5" screen (the black version has HDMI input at top center instead of top right) and simply zip tied it in 3 places to the PSU cage oriented so that I can best see it while sitting at the desk.

Other specs:

• Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
• Ryzen 5 5600X
• Noctua NH-U9S Chromax
• MSI Gaming Trio RTX 3070
• 1TB XPG SX8200 Pro
• 16GB XPG Spectrix 3600mHz
• Corsair SF600 Platinum

I would say no, for their carryon size case. Seahorse 920 Protective Wheeled Case with Foam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A1TRNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_xD6bGb6A57QVZ

They do have larger cases you can look at on their site but then you would need to check it. http://www.seahorsecases.com/

Correct, they would only prevent the tubes from dislodging and obstructing the fans. The bend pressure won't go away and I would still route the tubes along the fan casings to be safe.

The only reason I didn't orient the fans that way is that I wanted to maximize the amount of space for the tubing. Fans-inside orientation gives the radiator's thickness as additional space, but I'm not sure it really matters all that much.

I would keep the AIO set to intake. Machines & More did pretty extensive testing with the NR200's many fan and cooling configurations and I believe the consistent winner was top exhaust, bottom intake, AIO intake: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcMI-mP1Aw0

Here are the grills I ordered (and have yet to install, so I can't recommend either way): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2YI7BM/

Thanks. The tricks I use are custom-length cables, only M.2 SSDs, and these cool adapters I recently discovered: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Desktops-Graphics-Upgrade-Version/dp/B08F7G7C4G/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ATX+8Pin+Female+to+8pin+Male+180+Degree+Angled+Adapter+for+Desktops+Graphics+Card+Upgrade+Version&qid=1610399564&sr=8-1

If you want one thats quiet thatll last you with upgrades(if more itx cards come out needing higher wattage) 600w enhance flex 1u power supply is marvelous duh Enhance psu

If you want a great budget psu, but with an ok sounding fan( many recommend the noctua fan swap) then I recommend either the Silverstone 350w or the 500w silverstone flex atx

The silverstones are great, the fan is alright. Its loud, like you'll notice it but if youre in a place with fans running or some sort of ambient sound, its not that bad, headphones just cut it down completely but a fan swap just makes the system sound cleaner imo

The enhance is probably the best one out there if you want to stay brickless. 600w platinum rated, quiet fan, sexy black.

I just ordered 3 of them for my own M1 build with a EVGA 3080 FTW3 card.

This is the link I used - had to order 3 of them, as the two have different pin orientations.

Two Amazon reviews saying the same thing 'super loud non-stop fan'. I can't use mine yet because I'm missing a CPU and case.