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Another one I made more photos red one
Basically its made of : Used 13.3 1080p IPS screen HDMI+ Controller Board Kit LCD Driver Board 12v 2amp power supply Shorty hdmi cord All in all it cost me around $70
There prebuilt ips screen around $120 where you just hook up the hdmi cable to your ps4 and plug a 12v adapter
Edit: here is the STL file if you want to print one https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1gFcozZfjaq-ps4
And Thanks for the awards!!1
I actually got my initial inspiration from this design which had links to the code for the arduino. I only tweaked the code a bit to make the eye more mobile. And the 3d design I made can be found here
Trebuchetchy vs the Fast Attack Missile Benchy
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5EkmOyykDnZ-trebuchetchy#/
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/48H1tMsqmwH-fast-attack-missile-benchy#/
I used woodfill, was really painful to clean up the strings
Hi!
I made this mostly with Kill Team in mind. I have a youtube channel where I ramble about this if you'd rather watch than read!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxLCTnpP1b0
This was 3d printed, I build it in tinkercad for my old Samsung Galaxy S5. If per chance you want to have a looksie, then the tinkercad file is here:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2EPLyIix3UZ
I apologise for the terrible meme, I just made it quickly to demonstrate it.
Thanks.
I originally made this for a Digital 3d class that im in. I made it in the beginning of last semester. The teacher has us use Tinkercad for the first semester and Onshape in the second (hence why the file is on Tinkercad)
More than one person asked about source, so I'm just making a top-level comment. Here's the tinkercad file where everything's split out: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/eHq9qz0KQWj
Honestly I'd recommend making your own -- the source file that I used for Johnny-5 (source) has some weird stretch issues that aren't obvious on screen but are really obvious when printed -- it's just a matter of orienting the model to the camera in a way that they don't really appear. I did all the cutting in Tinkercad and printed the pieces one at a time, then glued them together; every piece required support, though I tried to cut them in a way that required as little support as necessary.
cc u/krylon u/2448x
Not sure if this is allowed in this sub, print parts are functional, but project is unfinished. I did not had the opportunity to test with a table to fine tune and try to make some programmed drills. It seems to be possible, even using these cheap motors and 9g servos. The ball lift mechanism I copied from SteweBug video.
Project files.
Robo R1, white PLA, colored with a purple sharpie pen. I am SHOCKED at how well Sharpie pens color PLA. I might have to invest in a full set of them. I tested with the Fine Point, but the Sharpie Brush gave better coverage.
FYI, I discovered if you get sharpie where it's not supposed to go, you can remove it with acetone nail polish remover and it will not harm the PLA.
Model from Thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:555242
I designed the sign using Tinkercad:
get a circle generator and go up a number of blocks every time you move a equal angle from the circle template. calculating that angle is kinda hard.. do this n times from each of the n corners of your polygon. so 8 for an octagon. the radius of the circle is the distance from corner to opposite corner for even cornered polygons. for odd numbered, its a bit different. as for what counts as an equal angle, well its approximately a block but as you get closer to putting blocks to the 45 degree line the further it gets from being the same angle, so you will have to do a calculation as to how many blocks is equal to what angle and based on...
wait hold on, just import the model to tinkercad, size it to what you want, then (click the pickaxe in the corner to convert to blocks and) export as a minecraft schematic. or just use the blocks mode as a building guide without exporting.
The driver's side seatbelt guide on my car was broken when I bought it, and reaching way behind me to grab the seatbelt was getting annoying.
But not $125 annoying. Designing this piece, I found the limits of Tinkercad, so if you have any suggestions for CAD software that doesn't take a ton of time to learn, I'd love to hear them.
Edit: if you also happen to need a seatbelt guide for a MK3 Supra, here ya go
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1q3enNGMyrN-th8a-handbrake-plate-slim-fit. I had to modify the size a little bit to get it to fit on the makerbot mini I have at work. Also, make sure you print it upside down...or bad things will happen....trust me...
Modeling is the hardest part, but you can practice without having a printer. The easiest free option is probably tinkercad. You can play around with it right now, try making some simple objects. https://www.tinkercad.com/
Instead of cutting the blue zipper in my cabling, I designed intersections for stacking my NUCs more neatly instead. After a successful fail to measure the NUC dimension correctly, the second iteration came out rather nicely. The NUCs fit right in, the little dampering feet slide into their cut-outs and the Galaxy Black filament provides the sprinkles that I never knew my cluster needed.
As a newb when it comes to 3d printing, all I can do is to share the link to my TinkerCAD file: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hd0kVVEfScA-shiny-duup/edit?sharecode=fOD05HuwvrzrLNjnechzYS48IIIRZ_BmwLbDcte7HQo for anyone interested.
Enjoy!
you can probably figure this out yourself on tinkercad in less than 15 min tbh.
but I just made this because I'm bored https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6c8uoTXGFdO
it's 9mm diameter w/ 8mm hole, which is 1mm thickness and 30mm high (3cm).
Tinkercad. It's a 3D design tool that has a great UI and is easy to use, even to make complex models. Then you can have them 3D print it and send it to you. Great for replacing hard-to find parts!
No worries, if you want to have a go yourself you could use my masters as a base: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gHfh72FtueQ-flatmen-masters
If you can generate svg path files (I use inkscape) you can import those in Tinkercad to create characters!
Use Tinkercad, it's works 1:1 the same way an actual breadboard does. I found the equipment pretty intuitive for my first lab (we worked with only resistors and a multimeter), but you can also buy EE equipment online if that suits you better.
Just 3D printed a memory card for my USB drive to match my DS4 + PS Classic USB cable.
I love the look and feel of OG PSX stuff like this.
If anyone wants the .stl - https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2TceYekZUbF-funky-jofo/edit?sharecode=vlW5gRPUsvIxBJg1HXPcoYtiwEVp3UtPUxBG4Kww8As
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jfE4S9cFAnf
u/dmcke12
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Found it on tinkercad. Looks similar to this one. The creator made all 4 divine beasts.
I prioritized my Sunday and designed and printed these stackable rack-holders for my NUC11 cluster. They came out nicely after the first totally mis-measured try.
You can find the TinkerCAD link here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hd0kVVEfScA-shiny-duup/edit?sharecode=fOD05HuwvrzrLNjnechzYS48IIIRZ_BmwLbDcte7HQo
I printed it with a very rough 0.25mm layer height to see if it fits correctly on the NUCs and for that the quality is good enough. I will probably not print them in better quality, as they work as intented. Printing time is ~1h30min for the bottom one and ~2h30min for the intermediate piece, which does require supports to be added.
Enjoy!
I created an Etsy store a while back for folks who couldn't print their own copies of the Splendor/Machi Koro/Codenames organizers that I uploaded to Thingiverse: Meeple Juice
I also agree with /u/Funkativity that it's mostly cost and technical know-how and with /u/sylpher250 that local libraries/makerspaces are good places to check to get stuff printed at a reasonable cost.
CAD modeling used to also have a substantial learning curve that I could see turning a lot of people off, but free in-browser programs like Tinkercad are pretty powerful and quite easy to learn/use.
That's something you have to make yourself. I used this default branding iron from u/wilkraft and removed the letter and added my design on top of it. Once I receive my branding iron I will have to go but an awl or maybe use an ice pick.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dy3l9UtXKiy-ug0re-bot The best I can do with my limited ability to use the CAD. I did made small modification. The blade positioning is too high for the bot to be inverted so I remove top free wheel, rebar the weapon's support so it can hold up better. Maybe someone with better skill can use this and add in all the details.
Probier mal TinkerCAD :)
Ist ein webbasierter CAD Editor von AutoCAD, der aufs Nötigste reduziert ist. Ich entwerfe damit gerne Dinge für den 3D-Druck wenn's schnell gehen muss.
Weiß aber nicht wie gut dass mit dem Handy interagiert.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dXNkANrABFp
Use with 3/8 tubing, just cut a piece to connect the two boxes on top.
Optionally you can also couple the same tubing to the bottom drain to redirect it.
files for 3d printing the pieces were all made on tinkercad, and area available on the link below. The build required 2 sets of the extenders, so I would recommend anyone trying this to just print those at 2x the length.
don't be discouraged! 3d modeling takes some getting used to, and it's always kinda rough when you first start. I recommend checking out TinkerCad- it's a really great tool, and it's relatively easy to use. It's also been used to make some really cool, 3d printable files. have a look here: https://www.tinkercad.com/. you can do it!
If you ever decide to print ALL of your glasses, it can be rewarding! Good job on getting the arms printed.
I have been wearing 3d printed glasses for over a year and a half now, and I'm never going back. The hard part is dialing in the right size to pop in your lenses. I had problems with the screws breaking and ended up making a ball and joint version.
Thanks the file can be downloaded or edited here https://www.tinkercad.com/things/b4FTl0eaPVk
If you want a version without the symbol which i pinched from here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2825448 let me know and I can upload that too.
for this kind of thing I just use tinkercad because everything I'm designing and printing is 80s style chunky anyway, so why make it harder on myself? It's so intuitive you can just figure it out. I design ports and spacers and things in a few hours. When I find the time, I can knock out a design, and print it, in a single Sunday afternoon.
I wanted to see how practical it would be to mount my Ubiquiti USG-3P to the DIN rail in my small rack. It actually works pretty well- the mounts are long so you need a ton of clearance *below* the rail to snap these in, and if your DIN rail isn't super sturdy (mine isn't), then it may wobble the rail a tiny bit. I'm not sure if I'll keep using these, but I thought folks might find them useful. The Tinkercad link is here, and you can ungroup the shapes to see how I made it or modify it yourself. It's based on this original design here on Thingiverse.
I made a simple bracket to wall mount my network tuner. It has to be close to the antenna so it’s not a good fit for my equipment rack. I made the holes generous enough to easily mount with drywall screws. I’m posting the Tinkercad link so you can easily edit to your heart’s content. Printed in PLA.
Setup:
- Install MCEdit and launch
- Download this MCEdit filter and place it in the MCEdit/Filters folder in your Documents folder
- Create an account on TinkerCAD
- Have WorldEdit installed in Minetest
Steps:
- Create your drawing in AutoCad, then File>Export>CAD Format>.stl OR download STL from Thingiverse etc
- Create a new drawing in TinkerCad
- Select Import>Choose a File>Pick the STL from step 1
- Select size, adjust placement as necessary
- Select the pickaxe icon at the top right
- Change the scale at the top right "Blocks" toolbar and the material from the top left "Blocks" window. Choose a common material, as not all Minecraft blocks are supported by the MCEdit filter.
- Select Export and save the .schematic file somewhere accessible
- Restart MCEdit and create a new world, choosing "superflat" for world type
- When it opens, select "Import" from the bottom menu and select the schematic file you downloaded in step 7, then click to place the schematic.
- Select "Filter" from the bottom menu, then select "Export to Minetest MTS Schematic", enter a {filename}, and click "Filter"
- Find {filename}.mts in your MCEdit install directory and copy it to {minetest install location}/worlds/{world you want to place object in}/schems/
- Launch Minetest and open the world
- Select the location you want to place the object in WorldEdit, then type //mtschemplace {filename}
Go here, sign up and go through the tutorials. Its quick and easy and just like playing with shapes and you can export your finished work to stls.
If you like that and do want something more precise, autodesk fusion 360. It is free for hobbyist use and very powerful
yeah no snark you can make the part in tinkercad faster than you could draw that example (excepting time to log in etc...)
Especially if you just really want one duplicatable unit.
EDIT: www.tinkercad.com if you really don't know it's an autodesk product and far simpler than most CAD software.
You just want to stick a ring on a plate and set it to the height you want. or set a cylinder and hollow it out.
Tinkercad is a mixed blessing, it makes the easy stuff like this so easy that the hard stuff can look, well, even harder. But if you get into the harder stuff you can use the same account you use for tinkercad to get started with fusion360.
There's a great chat community for the Original Prusa i3 over at http://3dprinting.community/ where you'll be able to get Original-i3 specific help and info.
If you'd like to jump straight in to learning full (but more complicated) CAD, Autodesk provides a free licence for their Fusion360 product for hobbyists and small businesses. Otherwise, Tinkercad is a simpler browser-based option.
(SketchUp is not recommended as it often needs extra post-processing to fix its stupid broken exported files, and the power of full Parametric CAD from something like Fusion is absolutely worth learning.)
He was modeled in Tinkercad, and printed on a RoBo 3D R1 at school in Pink PLA.
Here's an STL download, in case anyone has access to a 3D Printer and wants to print one.
The link to the Tinkercad creation is here
For a 80mm fan (select a 50+CFM for best results)
Printed at a 45° angle with support and raft. 10-11hrs print depending on options
My printer had a Y issue just before finishing, hence the tape I used to close the top (visible in pic1).
If the PSU is used at 110V and the usage is above 800watts, the whine will be present but not as much audible as without the fan (before, the noise would be heard through the hardwood floor from the basement)
If the PSU is on 240V, consider it wife proof :-)
I'd first made this a few years ago, but the PLA version cracked this weekend, so I reprinted it in PETG. I had grossly underestimated the difficulty of removing supports from PETG.
Tinkercad link: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3dSeOWIurP2-dyson-hair-dryer-mount-draft
Wow! I'm happy you all seem to like this. I'm new at 3d printing, but I will share the links to the files. I am hoping to improve a bit on the design and finish. :)
I used Tinkercad to design it, then my friend edited it a bit for his 3d printer and to add magnets to the back panel
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4be03HtV531-stacker-final-w-back-panel
I’m not an expert in 3D printing. My job is leans more towards the design side, so for which printer etc I can’t make an informed recommendation.
But what I can suggest is to check our tinker cad it’s a web base “CAD” software that’s designed in a very user / kid friendly way. They’ll be able to design parts to print without having to deal with strict dimensioning rules and the annoying parts of traditional CAD softwares
I made this comment on someone's post about drones, and the more I thought about a VTOL vehicle delivery solution, the more I loved it, so I decided I'd try to make one. I adore Satisfactory's design, and even though I really was trying to make this look like it could fit in the game, it didn't really work out. That said, I've never done any 3D modeling so I was proud of it and wanted to share.
Link to tinkercad thing. (Apparently you could 3D print this if you wanted to).
The short version: I have tried printing my files on other printers and the dimensions are usually off enough to prevent duplication. As such I am not comfortable charging money for something I cannot ensure will print properly. I did pull my core architecture and post that on tinkercad so others can manipulate the raw shapes and fine tune for their printer. I did not post the full barrel as that thing took me almost a year to design, but everything else is there. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dxOEdGoB1U6
Work through these and you should be able to design your part assuming its as simple as you make it sound, within an hour or two.
https://www.tinkercad.com/learn/
I can print it out for you once you've designed it.
Shotgun cylinder
Swapper bit.
Technically not break-action, but swaps cylinders just fine, that is, if you can get some printer time.
(spring upgrade recommended)
I am confused... do you want me to help you with cad in exchange for sexual favors? Do you just want me to teach you enough cad to make a Christmas ornament? Either way, happy to help.
assuming you already have access to a 3d printer, this is HOW TO CAD (for beginners):
You will need CAD software. Most Cad software costs upwards of 90$, but if you are just making small objects for a hobby, then you don't really need those. https://www.tinkercad.com/ is a free cad software that runs on most browsers. It even comes with a tutorial, so check that out!
You will need (or need to create) a file. To make things easy, only work with .STL files. You can save your objects from tinkercad in an STL file, and you can upload any STL file to tinkercad and modify it.
Have an STL file? good.
- 3D printers use Gcode to complete their prints. To get Gcode, you will need to UpLoad your STL file into a slicer. A slicer allows for you to adjust layer high, infill, how fast the 3d printer nozzle moves, the temperature it is printed at, and the scale of an object. https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software is an easy-to-use free slicer. Upload your STL file to the slicer, set your temps, scale, print speed, and infill and then wait for it to spit out your Gcode. Upload this to your printer, and you should be set to print.
If you just wanted to learn the above, great! If you wanted to also PM me some Nudes/anything else, that would also be great!
Adam I would try to build a small tone generator - with a led associated with each tone. Use the tactile switches as keys and a speaker for output. Be sure to use a limiting resistor on each led and the speaker so you don't fry anything;) Arduino has some great tone functions and you should have the parts. Tinkercad is a great free tool - it has a virtual breadboard with all the standard parts simulated and an Arduino emulator so you can build a circuit, write the code and test it (even has virtual instruments like a multimeter, oscilloscope and function generator). You can build some pretty sophisticated circuits with it - all free!
getting a satisfactory plate printed is extremely challenging, I printed mine in 3 pieces, getting those 3 pieces synchronised is another challenge (synchronising possible imperfections that arise from the print bed, calibration etc.)
plastic plate is awesome tho, sound wise, no plate pings/resonations, awesome sound absorption
this is my 6c2 plate version, to give an idea about the design: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0ltTy8pUbdb-plate-6c2
If you have a printer, definitely try it, even if you get a plate manufactured elsewhere, you can't get a perfect size, it's usually one size fits all, however with 3d printing you can adjust the size all you want (I have 10's of test plate pieces tho, maybe close to 100 counting the small ones, that's why I deem it hard)
I'll post on Thingiverse later today. I had to take apart the unit to drill 3 holes for M3 bolts and replaced the current 8mm M4 bolts with 10mm.
It has a 15 deg angle to make easier to read.
The ribbon cable is just long enough.
Here is the tinkercad link which I use a lot for making simple parts.
Genmitsu 3018 Offline Controller mount
That's great. You should definitely check out Tinkercad, if you're not already familiar with it. It can be used to prototype Arduino circuits and has Scratch-type block coding that is automatically converted to Arduino language that you can transfer over to an actual board. You can set-up a classroom on the site and have students join and submit and share their projects.
Am trying to learn large, thin, shells and a co-worker asked for a Judge Dredd helmet so he could put it on and tell his 14-y-old twins "I am the LAW!" I found this helmet on tinkercad
https://www.tinkercad.com/users/fZWm1K78k2d-fraser-sim
and gave it a shot. This was the result of trying to print the 4 sections of the back of the helmet all at once, no brim, no supports, then going to bed.
Also you might want to play with Tinkercad circuits online for a bit using a virtual simulated breadboard to get the hang of things if you are NEW NEW to this, get used to blowing some things up when you make the wrong connections and smoke the nano or an LED. Hell even after 30 years of toying around with different microcontrollers and circuits I still blow something up every now and then when I'm not paying attention or have a mess of wires ;)
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kYt7zRBrOI5-tinkertour-breadboard-circuit
Here are two links. 1 is to my glasses and the other to the connector I found and included in my designs. Believe it or not, I designed a lot of these in TinkerCad and Blender by combining lots of shapes. I have been learning Fusion 360 myself and I plan to design a new pair of glasses in the program.
There is this great website called tinkercad(https://www.tinkercad.com ) which provides simulation for Arduino uno and also tutorials for some simple projects. You can try that but learning programming on a phone will be tiresome. I guess your options are limited without a computer.
The model is easy enough, but I don't know how big to scale it. Especially since V60 is a style of filter, not a set size-- the size of the filter may vary.
Measure and scale yourself before printing.
Happily- I made a 3D rendering on tinkercad that may or may not be helpful: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dzw1zTP63QK
The display rack is on a ~30 degree angle. Boards are a mix of 1x3’s, 4’s (struts), and glued-up 1x8’s (sides and top/bottom). I don’t have a proper table saw yet so I bought and chopped a bunch of 1x1 oak for the ladders. Modified the angle and placement of the diagonal shelves after I decided to add some additional support under the corners of the bottom horizontal shelf. I also added some unseen spacers/supports in 3 spots on the back of the long side racks.
I’ll try to remember to upload a sketch of my original sometime
Just took a few minutes to build this in TinkerCAD. It has not been tested but you can tweak it as needed.
By the looks of it the parts are overlapping - presumably this isn't what you actually tried printing?
Take a look at some example dovetails (this was the first Google result for "tinkercad dovetail") and notice that they leave some gap, aka tolerance, between the male and female parts.
The good news is that you can learn the basics of CAD for free and without installing any software. I recommend playing with these two in this order:
Tinkercad is very good for beginners. It's pretty easy to learn, you just drag shapes onto the screen and move them around, resize them, etc. The main drawback for me was that making changes later is somewhat difficult.
OnShape is a big step up, more complicated and engineering-oriented. It takes longer to learn, but it's much more capable, and making adjustments later is simple.
There are others but those are both free, completely online, let you save your designs, and generate STL files for printing.
Check out TinkerCAD. It's a great way to get your feet wet, and surprisingly decent unless you're getting super complex. It was how I got started designing instead of just hoping I could find something on Thingiverse.
I gotta rep Tinkercad for this one! I bought a Prusa MK3S not too long ago and built it from a kit. All in all a super rewarding experience. Then, within the last 2 weeks or so I began creating my own custom 3D models for boardgame and I did it all with next to zero knowledge on how to do so. My recommendation - Tinkercad! It's a free online 3d model creation tool that works great for pretty much anything board game related. There is a minor learning curve but nothing the very straightforward tutorial won't teach you.
Once you get yourself situated with the software it's really just measuring your dimensions in mm and then modeling accordingly. It's a ton of fun! :)
There is a free electronics class on the instructables website - https://www.instructables.com/class/Electronics-Class/ There is also an electronics simulation program in Tinkercad. It enables you to connect components together to create circuits and also connect microcontrollers and write programs for the circuits and simulate running programs etc. It's actually a lot better than my description, here's a link - https://www.tinkercad.com/circuits
Your computer specs are more than enough to be able to use 3d design software. You should start with Tinkercad - https://www.tinkercad.com they have plenty of tutorials to help you learn.
As you develop your abilities, you can move on to Fusion 360 - https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists which is a more professional piece of software, but you can have a free license for hobbyists.
As others have said, your printer manufacturer will recommend which slicing software to use. If your not confident in creating your own designs initially, you can download other people's designs from a website called Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3evzUUNgX1q Same guy who made the best robotic friend. Feel free to share your 3D prints of him on here! =) Hope you guy like him.
Here is a link to TinkerCAD, a free online CAD program: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9CGnnDlhM4e-beryllium-3210/edit?sharecode=z4yXUfYLpGMQaMD8XIPUXv4mi1fAIY5S8Vp5VeeFOyw=
It isn't really that technical or useful for building them but so you can have a nice look at how they're put together. If you want them, I can send you a DXF file with al of the exact plates in 2D if you give me your e-mail address via private messages. You could use this to cut them with a milling machine, like I did. I got it done by the Hubo. Some of their stores offer robotic milling services since a while.
You don't have to wait for the Arduino to arrive you can start on emulators like tinkercad circuits: https://www.tinkercad.com/learn/#/learn/circuits
The Arduino getting started pages cover most of what you will need: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage
Then a good book is usually useful as it takes you through the learning process from the easy bits to the more difficult ones in a nice structured manner.
The body is 3/4" MDO (a.k.a. signboard) and the CP is 1/2" MDO.
The design is original; I just played around with a website meant for making small 3D printed things until I got a shape I liked, then translated that to inches when I cut it out: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jSMfKQzdihv-arcade-cabinet#/
You could grab an image like this one, cut it up in an image editor to pull out the parts you want, upload it to an SVG converter like this one, and import the SVG into TinkerCad to mess with. Download the results as an STL file, slice and print.
It's great that you found a design that fits your needs.
For next time, I can recomm ent AutoCad's (free) TinkerCad for basic designs. You can literally learn how to use it in less than an hour, and it's good enough for most simple designs.
While I’m not too particular about my pens needing clips, I’ve seen this exact complaint before about the Kakuno.
The cap has a very slight taper, so once it’s attached you’re more likely to remove the whole cap than the clip.
Here's the part on Tikercad. Nothing special, but if you dissect it you can see an easy way to make your own parts quickly when you don't need high-precision parts. I love this sub, it's so cool to see what people make and post.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/51MUiQRRgJV-card-table-wall-hanger/
In Tinkercad what I would do is the following:
- For each fin in your design, create a cylinder rotated on it's side with a height that's the same as the thickness of your fin.
- Adjust the diameter of the cylinder to get the desired roundness for your design.
- Position the circle so that two edges of the fin tip line up with the wall of the cylinder.
- Create a "hole" box shape to cut off the tip of the fin and align it to overlap the fin.
- Join the fin with the box shape to cutoff the tip.
- Join the cylinder with the cut fin shape to get your rounded edge.
If you want something keychain sized then you'll need to grab one of the existing models (I'd recommend the less detailed SyFy one) and scale it down. You'll also need to merge it into one part and remove any details which become too small (<1mm dimension) after the scaling. You could do it in an hour or two in TinkerCAD.
If helps anyone, I 3D printed a mount that screws underneath the OpenWheeler pedal plate and allows you to mount a Gamer 2. You can grab the 3D design here:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/fgh7dhXIOZL-bass-shaker-mount
Check out https://www.tinkercad.com/circuits
You can run simulations using arduinos and other circuits without having to worry about overloading components. You can also mess around with coding the arduino and see other examples of pre made circuits.
I'm not sure how savvy you are with 3d modeling, but I always use Tinkercad to design things, and Thingiverse to get different shapes to add to my designs.
For printing you can use 3dhubs. There are others, but this one is the best; though, I forget how I came to that conclusion.
I think some of the users on 3dhub can design things, as well as print them out for you which is what I think you're asking.
...You could also go to the library downtown and use the computers and printers there, but the quality of the print is hit and miss, at least when I used them.
My singles previously just sat in a stack and I'm saving a bit of money. Luckily I have access to a 3D Printer at work, so I used a free browser-based CAD program (https://www.tinkercad.com/) to design a simple display holder.
The design includes a ridged bottom so the records don't slide as well as a design on the back from one of my favorite books which is inset about 1mm (making it tough to photograph).
Feel free to make a copy of and edit my design for yourself. I'm sure many people out there could improve it.
In that case, you'll be thrilled, I think. Of course most of us get models from a site like Thingiverse, but in case you're interested in creating your own custom parts you may find a site like Tinkercad a good place to start. It provides a simple free method to create your own models without a lot of investment to learn complicated software.
I think the large logo in the top left is the actual logo with a border, and then the small over the globe right next to it is also close. For reference.
But if you're talking about this lines logo, then yeah none of that lmao. Not the most recognizable logo -- I won't be surprised if they phase it out.
Tip for tinker cad is to try and keep your shapes as simple as you can in terms of additions and subtractions.
Eg. Id guess your necessles are a rectangle with 6 ish hole shapes to make the cutouts. You could achieve the same result stacking 3 rectangles and filling the middle wide section with a 4th.
Ive been having some fun with starship designs lately too. I mainly wanted to remake the Ranger class in a form I like better, but Ive been having so much fun with it.
Take a look here https://www.tinkercad.com/things/bWonMzXTmyV-low-ranger-type
If you copy it and pull it apart you might find some examples in there of how I keep the shapes simple.
Another thing with tinkercad is, it will slow down ALOT at certain times of day. Usually around school starting time accross the USA. their servers seem to not handle the load very well. Try tinkering your design at the same time of day you originally started, you might find it doesnt load so slow after all.
I like your design over all. Ive always been a fan of using the roll bar as something that can protect things like sensitive componants, and weak spots like shuttle bay doors from attack angles. The only thing I think is that its a bit too messy and chaotic for a Fed starship imo, but there are certainly worse examples. Ive discarded a couple of my own designs for this reason, but if its what you like, keep going with it. Make whatever you think looks good, thats what its all about.
EDIT. Also, on tinkercad. At the moment, the standard create new design button will start in the beta version of the program. For the moment, you might be better off creating a legacy design. The controls work better and faster, and are less prone to screw ups, and designs seem to load a bit faster as well.
I don't know if the printed part will hold up to it being threaded with a die so I would add the thread to the file to be printed too.
I haven't learned how to make threads from scratch, but this thread generator is helpful. You can also use this site to import the screw files from the other link to combine the threaded part too.
I got the keycap from this site: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5mHdf0CHnVU-csgo-keycap-inverted
I printed it from my school and they let me do it for free :D.
Unfortunately, the bottom wasn't fitting on my keyboard so I had to break it off, but it still fit.
The CSGO Logo was hard to see at first so I just colored it in :P
If you have a 3d printer, you can download the mount .stl from here;
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:445866
You can then import the .stl file into https://www.tinkercad.com/ or a standalone 3D modeling program and make any adjustments you need.
Even if you don't have a 3d printer a bunch of UPS stores now offer the service or visit your friendly neighborhood hakerspace.
Schematics done in Eagle.
Schematic Image: https://i.imgur.com/HWgJ3iD.png
Schematic Files: https://www.dropbox.com/s/aq3b7shvmbcy8yw/PWM_Booster.zip?dl=0
Case Thingy: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dRvIrrcU7lq-pwm-booster-case-partly-finished
Try Thingiverse or design it yourself in a cad program Tinkercad browser based or 123D from autodesk which you have to download both are very intuitive and easy to get into.
You guys are really cute! I have lots of DIY ideas (probably why none of them get done ;p)
-make a frosted/monogrammed wine glass set (just a stencil and some spray stuff to make the glass frosted like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-11-oz-Frosted-Glass-Spray-Paint-1903830/100195608)
-SF is like super maker capital for everything... maybe design something (or find a pre-made design file of something significant) and get it 3D printed (https://www.tinkercad.com/ for ideas... i'm not endorsing them I just can't think of the other websites)
-or come up with a design that you want cut out of metal and take it to a maker shop... they probably have a CNC or laser cutter that could cut out a fun design or etch something
-Find some thick tree branches and slice them into rustic coasters (or cut out the center of cheapo records and shellac the label to serve the same purpose)
The bottom plate gaps are 0.4mm, so the bottom row looks good, the other gaps are 0.8mm - that's where the huge gaps come from - I didn't want the plate pieces to press onto each other, so I made the gaps 0.8mm - yet after upgrading to an E3D V6 hotend that is able to print better, I think I might retry with all 0.4mm gaps, or just move on with this build
The 3d printing layer height is 0.2mm, but the first layer is 0.4mm in height and width, therefore the top texture of the plate has very bold printing lines which I was aiming for
The stabiliser cutouts are slightly modified Costar cutouts, I bend the wires downwards a bit so they press onto the inserts and don't rattle anymore, the extra spaces is to allow the wire to go through the plate a bit
It really feels great to be able to manufacture something at home that you are going to use every day :)
Edit: Here is a previous version of the plate https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0ltTy8pUbdb-plate-6c2/edit this one had 1u arrows, but 1.75/1.25/1.25/1.25 arrows are much easier to use, that's why I'm building a new batch of keyboards
Basic design We want to keep it within weight limit, so we want to use plastic frame. We are willing to move up a weight class if we have to and use aluminum.
Edit: formating is hard.
I usually point people who are new to 3d design to https://www.tinkercad.com/ as well as http://www.openscad.org/ if you're comfortable with programming.
The workflow usually goes: 3d model design (links above) -> printer specific post-processing (such as slicing a 3d model into "layers") -> printing
Printrbot has a pretty good rep for getting things done, too
Closest thing I could find
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1IovPUulzdA-fraternity-bench
It's basically just a bench with a cambered seating and a front platform for resting your legs and displaying your letters. It's pretty straightforward design for anyone who know a thing or two about woodworking. Just give them a picture of any frat bench and they should be able to figure it out.
The Printrbot Simple Metal is one of the most popular beginner printers, and is well below your price point at regular price, but they also have an education pricing program.
The Lulzbot Taz 5 and Taz mini both have great reviews. Lulzbot also offers an education pricing program.
Printer choice has no impact on modelling software. Any software that can output .stl files can be used for 3D printing - any software that comes with a 3D printer will be able to read a .stl file. For a simple, free design tool, Tinkercad might be a good choice.
Puffa, Little Owl and Märklin are finished. Henrietta will be out with in 24 hours.
https://www.tinkercad.com/users/i2jq1oAHN8y-theautotankengine
I was wondering if you've printed any yet? If you have how have they been printing?
So, the big difference is the LPC is a "modern" 32 bit microprocessor, where as your existing v1 "Melzi" board uses an 8-bit processor design that's pretty much the glorious peak of 1980's technology.
Previously those 32 bit processor boards were rather expensive, and the old Atmega chip based ones were dirt cheap. Even now, though 32bit boards have become more common, most of them are now using the lower clock speed "STM32" processor rather than the more expensive LPC chip.
For comparison, most Ender owners with an LPC chip forked out the cash for a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo board to get it.
As for learning CAD, I'd recommend https://www.tinkercad.com if you're just getting started. It's simple, but that's a good thing at first. If you're on more limited hardware, "FreeCAD" is a viable option you can run on something as cheap as a $55 Pi 4, but it's a bit painful to use compared to the commercial offerings. Fusion360 also has a "free" version for a year if you're not doing commercial work as well.
I think you beat yourself up more than you should, but instead of being that you and others are poor teachers, it more sounds you have fallen into a rut, and don't know how to get out of it. And the policies just keep driving over those that try. And yes, it makes me sad to see our system deflate young minds eager to learn.
In the end, 3D printers take ideas and concepts and turn them into objects that can be held and manipulated. They turn a thought into reality. And that is a powerful aid in igniting the creative drive in a kid.
This is the thing that even in the basic form, can drive concepts home, but when kids are exposed to the tools of creating, they thrive and excel. You say elementary age, so I would point to Tinkercad, https://www.tinkercad.com/teach, and if you look at that page, they will help you with lesson plans and how to teach this to young kids.
The key is igniting that desire to learn and push themselves, I really hope you are successful.
Made this out of chipboard at first, but I got my first FDM printer and wanted to print this out. It's small enough to toss in a bookbag with our D&D stuff and fit on the table with ease.
The print itself isn't perfect, not sure why the internal slopes show up on the walls, etc. But I'm pretty proud of it.
This was printed with eSun PLA+ Black at 210°C on a stock Ender 5 Plus.
You can download it from Tinkercad
- Tower: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jAMcfANTEKX-compact-dice-tower-fill
- Tray: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/46GCrJn6tYT-compact-dice-tray-sloped
^(I've also got a non-sloped tray in both half and full heights)
Thanks, let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks for your answer! At least now I can sort of troubleshoot that issue, I'll try the tape whenever I have some time. Also, here's the link to the parts. Make sure you use a -0.1 horizontal expansion, at least 20% infill and 0.2 layer quality.