Step 1.) trash can
Step 2.) Flip er upside down
Step 3.) Gubbinz
Step 4.) Flash bitz
Step 5.) Lifta-droppas
Step 6.) More dakka
Step 7.) Base coat
Step 8.) Spray paint
Step 9.) Dry brush
Step 10.) CRUSH DA HUMMIES!
Total cost: 250$
All the teef in the world can't buy the satisfaction of stomping a 1500$ resin model with a pile of crap you glued together in your garage.
Greater fucking Daemons. And it's a damn shame too, since Greater Daemons (especially the Bloodthirster) are iconic symbols of both Warhammer universes.
Thankfully there's companies like this making great alternative models.
Edit: Also:
Needs a model badly but doesn't have one:
Still in metal
Expensive resin kits that should be in plastic
Plastic models that cost too much to make an army with
Generally shit models
The main thing that bugs me about Tau is how they are portrayed fighting Space Marines. It's not that they sometimes win - you can win against Space Marines. Against Tau though, marines are just so... stupid.
Space Marines are brilliant, flexible and fearless warriors. Against everybody but Tau, they use adaptable tactics to outsmart their foe and strike where least expected. Against Tau, the marines follow a rigid set of rules and are easily outmaneuvered by multiple Tau commanders. Against Eldar or Chaos Marines, against whom marines have been fighting for thousands upon thousands of years, the enemies of the Imperium can't read the Space Marine instruction manual. Eldar can literally see the future, and they don't have the foresight of Tau commanders when it comes to Space Marines. It's just ridiculously convenient for the Tau.
I think Tau writers just seriously misunderstand what the Codex Astartes is. It's not a "If A then B" instruction manual. It's like knowing your opponent has read The Art of War, then supposing that you can guess his every move in battle. It's ridiculous, but when fighting Tau the entire Space Marine strategy is "herr derr send in another wave of drop pods". Ugh.
Hi!
I made this mostly with Kill Team in mind. I have a youtube channel where I ramble about this if you'd rather watch than read!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxLCTnpP1b0
This was 3d printed, I build it in tinkercad for my old Samsung Galaxy S5. If per chance you want to have a looksie, then the tinkercad file is here:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2EPLyIix3UZ
I apologise for the terrible meme, I just made it quickly to demonstrate it.
Thanks.
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The Liquid Gold this cat used is a specific one from Vallejo. They are really good.
I'd personally recommend Old Gold, it goes very well with a brown shade/wash.
Yes. That is 100% a scam. It's such a common scam that it's literally listed on the paypal website. Here are some examples. My favorite variety of this scam would be the one where the buyer overpays you before having his "private agent" come get the goods, and then asks you to wire the difference to him. Several days later, turns out he was using a stolen card, the CC company gets its money back from paypal, who gets it back from you...but the "difference" you sent Western Union is un-recoverable.
People, this is one of the reasons we don't allow buying and selling on this subreddit, our inability to verify. PLEASE BE CAUTIOUS OF SCAMMERS. Always, always, ALWAYS distrust the confirmation emails you get, and go log into whatever site you're selling through directly to check on your accounts. This is Internet Know-how 101.
Hey there! It looks like a disreputable blog has stolen your content. Here is a link to the stolen image:
http://scifigames.tumblr.com/image/100930018534
you can ctrl+F for "[post title]" (You may need to scroll down a bit to load posts from a month ago) and find your post copied to their blog.
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Also not the original commenter, but I just bought an airbrush a few months ago and did a (read way too much) research into it. u/darcybono has pretty excellent advice on the Badger Patriot 105, it's a great brush.
This is a copy/paste from a conversation I had awhile back where someone asked about them like a month after I had started using mine. The sotar refers to the Sotar 20/20 the brush I wound up getting. I find the cone is a little smaller than I'd like, but haven't gotten a medium tip yet so I know it can go bigger.
​
>Amazon was fine for the sotar and this was the compressor I got.
>
>I also grabbed this cleaning kit but I don't use the upper brush holder because it doesn't fit the sotar. I actually 3d printed a stand for mine.
>
>You'll also want Vallejo airbrush thinner, iwata airbrush cleaner, and I recommend distilled water.
>
>If you haven't swapped your paints to dropper bottles I heavily recommend doing so. The GW pots really suck for it, though you can mitigate that some by using pipettes. Just make sure to get an agitator that isn't reactive like, I use hematite beads.
>
>Let me know if you have any other questions!
It's super fab, the compressor is quiet enough that I can use it when the house is asleep (I'm in a basement office of a two story home) I've used it a bunch for priming and have a couple projects I'm working toward where I'll be using it for base coating. I got one of the Munitorum Cargo Crate boxes and after testing basecoating on them I'll be moving to using the brush to basecoat my marines and such.
Fantastic, thanks for participating. Here's a sample of the copypaste I've been sending to everybody who has their stuff stolen, feel free to use it yourself:
>Hey there! It looks like a disreputable blog has stolen your content. Here is a link to the stolen image:
>http://scifigamer.tumblr.com/tagged/[whatever tag he is using for your stuff]
>you can ctrl+F for "[post title]" (You may need to scroll down a bit to load posts from a month ago) and find your post copied to their blog.
>If you did not give this website permission to host your content, and do not like the fact that they have stolen it with no attribution and passed it off as their own, please fill out the following form:
>Thank you!
nope, toon tanks are like 20$ a tank, this is 7.99$ for 4! HAR HAR HAR childrens toys LETS GOOOOO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MCT5Z3F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
What you're looking for is called Vassal. You'll need to download that program along with the 40K module, all of which you can find by googling around a little bit. This is all borderline illegal from what I understand (violates some statutes GW has regarding their IP or something) but yeah, there you go.
You can hotseat if you want to or play online. It's basically a 2D representation of the tabletop along with a pretty hefty dice simulator thing. The program is a bit daunting to try at first in my opinion but once you understand some of the hotkeys and stuff it goes pretty quickly. If you want to see some pictures of what it looks like while reading a really shitty battle report written by one of our neckbeard moderators and some other douchebag, you might take a look at this.
There's also going to be a video interview all on progression and itemization at 10am EST here: http://www.mmorpg.com/gamelist.cfm/game/542/view/videos/play/3417/Talking-Progression-with-Michael-Chan.html
I computed the probability distribution of hits from a twin-linked Tesla Destructor, since factoring in the Tesla rule is somewhat complicated. I haven't seen this calculation anywhere else.
Also, the probability distribution of the number of Space Marines 9 Dark Eldar Venoms kill in a turn of shooting.
I've also been mulling over how to calculate the probability distribution, or at the very least the expected value, of the number of Termagants produced by a Tervigon, but have been failing pretty hard thus far. Input would be appreciated.
EDIT: I figured out the expectation value for this one - it's (9/4)*(10.5) = 189/8 ≈ 23.6. Not too hard, because you can get it in terms of itself by conditioning on whether or not you roll a double, i.e. solve > E[G] = 4/9*E[3d6|doubles] + 5/9*(E[3d6|no doubles] + E[G])
for E[G]. Computing the two conditional expectations of 3d6 is a bit of a pain, but doable with pen and paper.
I've also been mulling over how to quantify in some way how much more vulnerable a unit with a larger footprint on the table becomes to blast weapons.
Also how to determine the optimal placement of the center of a blast marker on a vehicle.
Also, I don't know much about warhammer, just saw the game on sale, already have it and knew it was fun, so shared it. <3
Hey there! It looks like a disreputable blog has stolen your content. Here is a link to the stolen image:
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You can ctrl+F for "WIP Primaris Psyker" (You may need to scroll down a bit to load posts from a month ago) and find your post copied to their blog.
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Get yourself some of these, and as soon as you buy a new pot of paint, transfer it to one and add a shaker ball bearing:
https://www.amazon.com/AKOAK-Quality-Plastic-Squeezable-Childproof/dp/B01N3T942L/ref=sr_1_18
It's a HUGE improvement to Citadel paint pots, which are intentionally designed to be bad so you have to buy more paint.
Funny you should mention Cthulhu. The narrator has done audio book readings of a few H.P. Lovecraft books.
There is no additional color information in a monochrome image.
>Colorful Image Colorization is an algorithm that takes in a black & white photos and returns the colorized version of it. The algorithm uses deep learning to classify objects/regions within the image and color them accordingly.
https://algorithmia.com/algorithms/deeplearning/ColorfulImageColorization
For the record, Horus Heresy: Legions is a mobile CCG, and pretty good. There's another sub devoted to it, and I encourage more players to come into the Eightfold Path!
For pure color theory consider using Adobes color wheel
https://color.adobe.com/create/color-wheel/
You can create all kinds of color harmonies starting with a dark red Ruby base. play around with it to see the different color relationships you can make.
Bud… youre just wrong.
VIVOHOME 110-120V Professional Airbrushing Paint System with 1/5 HP Air Compressor and 3 Airbrush Kits for Tattoo Makeup Shoes Cake Decoration Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0796M9QVJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6D9KHV288Y3XX7R9EV5P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is one of hundreds of offers like this. Citadel paints are a scam.
Sharp point, bigger brush than I used to use. Nothing too expensive. I don't baby them that much. I think lately I have been using like a Rafael #1.
Best deal are these in a Size 2:
https://www.amazon.com/AIT-Kolinsky-Handmade-Exquisite-Watercolors/dp/B07PYTLVRJ
I use these a lot, and if they get tore up I just pitch 'em. Honestly, I have had better brush shape from these than any of the WN i have bought.
Bad news, it's scratch built. I found an 8 pack of wind up tanks on ⛈Amazon⛈ for 15 schmekels, built a shell around the OG toy and glued it all on in one piece. If you go this route, find gw tank treads on ebay to complete the look. Have fun! 😊
Looks amazing, and I love the passion you are sharing with your posts. The only thing I would advise you to do is take a moment and look for mold lines, sprue attachment points, and gaps. I didn't see any mold lines, but they blend in with the plastic, but generally stand out once you paint. The sprue attachement point will also stand out. I bought a file set on amazon here that I find work amazingly. For gaps there is green stuff and milliputt for large gaps. There is liquid green stuff, but I have never bought a pot that wasn't dried out. Rather I learned from another mini painter that you can take milliputt, and make a small disk, and using an old brush and water make a liquid milliputt that can be used to paint in small gaps.
​
Go for the color scheme that most inspires you. It may be technically difficult to pull off, but you will learn with every iteration that you attempt. The worst that can happen is that you strip it and start over. Enjoy and keep the updates coming.
It's not and exclusive preorder DLC like Chaos Warriors were; It's the final paid DLC for TWW1. $10 releasing August 8th.
As an incentive to preorder TWW2, you receive the Norsca DLC for the previous TWW.
TWW2 doesn't even launch until a month after the Norsca DLC is released. And even then, you wouldn't be able to take advantage of that DLC until the combined campaign map of TWW and TWW2 is released probably early next year.
They even got ahead of the announcement and talked about the mistakes they learned from their previous preorder bonuses. On Early Adoption Bonuses
Frankly speaking this is completely fair and doesn't feel anti-consumer in the slightest. They aren't holding "on disc" content back, nothing is exclusive to preorders, and you don't even have to preorder because the deal continues for 7 days after release of TWW2; giving you time to read reviews if you're worried.
TLDR; TWW2 is same engine, same mechanics, a proven concept on a different map with new factions. I'm certain I am going to buy TWW2 based on my hours of enjoyment of TWW and how similar the sequel appears. Pre-ordering the sequel will save me 10 bucks on DLC for the original game, which I would be paying for irregardless but now won't have to.
I find that if you are the type of person who needs specific names of the paint to get the effect you want then use citadel paint chart.
If you want to do more experimenting yourself I'd recommend: Paletton
You can pick triad, tetrad, monocromatic and it will show you good contrast colors and good adjacent colors and lighter and darker hues that work well. It's a really great tool and help you to take your game up a notch.
Looks like the original source for this is a colour palette challenge using the adobe colour wheel which is a great online tool for picking colour palettes. https://color.adobe.com/create/color-wheel/
Hello! Glad to see another hobbyist joining the ranks!
I've been a longtime painter, but haven't really ever airbrushed until recently, so I also went through the steps. As a fellow newbie to airbrushing, I recently picked up this kit, and thus far it's worked out wonderfully. Easy to learn, and easy to use. Comes with everything you need, and it's amazon, so you can get it quickly!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO578Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Best of luck!
I just buy disposable transfer pipettes on Amazon. Something like this. That pack will last you a long time, unless you get into mixing your own paint in bulk or transferring GW paint to dropper bottles.
If you're looking to give the game a try, take a look at the free core rules: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-IE/Warhammer-40000-Rules
Then download Battle Scribe to try out the data sheets for your models: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.battlescribe.mobile.rostereditor
So you painted your army in Kantor Blue, Waaagh Flesh, and Abaddon black. I would paint the Hawks Abaddon Black, then choose a brighter green and blue for the wings. Maybe Warpstone Glow or Kabalite green for the green, and Teclis Blue or Altdorf Guard Blue for the Blue. Also, if you're willing to invest the time doing this, paint each individual feather a different colour, like this:
Except with green-blue-green-blue-green-blue and so on until you reach the end of the wing, and then start at the next row of feathers and do blue-green-blue-green-blue-green until you finish that row
If you don't want to do that, paint one row of feathers blue, then another one green.
Out of interest, what colours are you using to highlight and shade the blue, green and black?
Also, pro tips: Always have at least 6 hawks for bigger grenade drops, and a Sun Rifle is actually pretty good against low initiative models
And a painting chart you might find useful:http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2015/10/30/754050_md-Painting%20Guide%2C%20Citadel%20Painting%20Chart%20Full.png
Also, some good Eldar Units to invest in: Anything with Wraith in it's name, Fire Dragons, Dark Reapers. I think some Dark Reapers would look really cool in your colour scheme
Did you see the IGN link? Seems like that's what it basically is. Except now when you move a rook you won't have to deal with the horrendously long animation of it getting up and walking.
Here is how I am doing my Salamanders. They look a bit(a lot) brighter than yours.
Base Coat - Waaagh Flesh - good even coat...green is not good over black primer...try on a couple of shitty marines and you will find the write consistency
Green Wash - don't know what the new version is called but its the green wash shit from GW
Next up roll some Warpstone Glow layer paint over that shit, might look a bit blothcy...thats ok. Cause we are going to hit that shit with some Waywatcher glaze after that....booom! looks smooth.
From there pick out your green highlight of choice....lately I am using Necorite green from P3 for the highlights.
https://imgur.com/a/NFRA1 Here is an example....blame the beer for the bad pic.
Here's a snapshot from October 2004 - that's as close as I could get. Leman Russes were fetching $40.00/ea direct from GW's webstore.
Nothing good is released yet, but some people were filming and should release later.
All I can give you now is this video (potato quality, hosted in russian social network) of opening parade with everyone showcasing their costumes.
Agreed! Years overdue for new greater daemons. Check these out, if you haven't seen them yet. They're more affordable than FW stuff. I wish the spider demon had the claw arms from the pincer demon though.... anyway, still 5 days left.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/jeremyglen/creature-caster-first-wave
A guy on Ebay makes them from resin and cotton parchment, they're pretty nice.
You need to lighten up. It's already been shown that GW uses terrible names for prominant figures in the universe (Lionel Johnson?) that have very little relevance besides a casual name-swap, it's not a stretch it could be influenced by a massively popular book series. I'm sorry I didn't research my material just to find that it predates a perceived tie-in by a mere 2 weeks. I must be massively retarded! LOL
I don't know how close they are in size, but as u/Grognarl said, check if the bases are the same. If so, then there shouldn't be a problem, as far as I know.
Also, I'd really like to hear that fluff because it seems like it would sound pretty cool.
Warhammer Community post - FAQ
And Grand Cathay is coming along with them.
i just recently finished dead men walking which is about the death corps of kreig and the first two books of the tome of fire which are focused on the salamander chapter and i found all three books interesting and captivating.
one of the most memorable 40k books was this book which focuses on a siege on a hive city by another hive city that has fallen to the ways of chaos. It is part of the Gaunt's Ghost series.
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They are micro leds, 3v so only a button battery underneath the base. Amazon- 25pc Micro LEDs And basically I just wiggled the led up into the ribcage lol. Though next time I think I will try to that BEFORE I finish putting it all together. Adding at the end made it tricky to try and hide the wires out the back. But on the battle field only yourself really will notice it. Your opponent if facing the army wont see it. I'm still working out a base switch...right now its electrical tape. lol
Nice job! If you are interested there is usually a lot a real estate between the shelves because the models are typically small by comparison. They sell acrylic risers that look nice inside the glass case as well and will give you more room if you get something like 5-6 in tall.
ex. of a 4 pack https://www.amazon.com/Azar-Displays-515311-Acrylic-Riser/dp/B011DYG1NG/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=Acrylic+riser&qid=1620415081&sr=8-7
Might have to search around for good prices
I recently got a set of "Wax carving tools" on amazon, which I haven't had the chance to use for green stuffing quite yet, but they seem like they'll be great for it.
Here's the link to the ones I bought, though the changed the listing since I got them, they're the exact make I have in front of me. They're light, good material and came with a little wallet style thing for carrying around, though the one I linked doesn't appear to have that.
All in all though as several people have said here, I used to just use a toothpick and paperclips and other weird crap like tiny blade pieces from the old Dark Eldar sprues to sculpt, the fancy tools are nice but not absolutely necessary.
I tried that for a while. But I was too used to working with palette paper. The was were way to high. So I struggled without a wet palette for a little longer. Then I finally broke down and bought one of the "Sta-wet" palettes. They are usually between $9-$12 on Amazon for the small ones (which are bigger than the Tupperware). Really like the nice and short walls, allows me to pull the brush along the paper at the shallow angle I prefer. Might switch back to the parchment paper and paper-towels once the Sta-Wet paper and sponge wares out. But as for the shape... much prefer this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C18GTE/
Liley because its a "start here" novella, and not a full novel. BL don't always bother listing all of the novellas.
Its here on Amazon though:
https://www.amazon.com/Hammerhal-Black-Library-Summer-Reading/dp/1784967505
I saw a good video on extra credits about this a while ago. Essentially there's two approaches you can take when licencing your property.
1) sparingly, and try to ensure every single use of the licence is amazing. This is hard to do well because of how broad the warhammer IP is. So many things to explore and so many systems and mechanics. It can cost a lot of money to do well. Large time between games limits exposure. But if you have a hit, it's a AAA hit.
2) like a shotgun, throw it to whomever you want. Cheap to do, but risky because you are hoping for a lucky break with one of them. Works well for their IP because there are so many distinct slices they can divvy out.
Back in the day, GW used to go with #1. You barely ever saw a warhammer game.
In the recent years, some time around DoW2, they changed tact. Giving many, many devs access to a tiny tiny fragment of the IP. The idea is that you push out so many games that that alone gives you great exposure. And ultimately the internet and people have short memories, so if you release a flop (there was a snotling slingshot game at one point.. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wickedwitch.snotling), people will forget about it. If you're lucky you might get a real success out of it.
I think this was the video I was thinking of: https://youtu.be/GOVrmfXolQg
PAINT SET: Spectral Sicarii
Armor: Sky Grey - Vallejo - 70.989 Silvergrey - Vallejo - 70.883 White - Vallejo - 70.951 Turquoise - Vallejo - 70.966 Dark Blue - Vallejo - 70.930 Dark Prussian Blue - Vallejo - 70.899 Concrete - Secret Weapon - W004 Dark Sea Grey - Vallejo - 70.991 Neutral Grey - Vallejo - 70.992 Black Grey - Vallejo - 70.862
SUBSET NOTES: Armor: Sky Grey base Concrete recess glaze Silvergrey highlight White final highlight
Armor Turquoise: Turquoise base Dark Blue glaze highlight Dark Prussian Blue glaze detail highlight
Chest emblem: Neutral Grey base Nun Oil light wash Neutral Grey highlight
Soft Armor: Dark Sea Grey detail highlight Nun Oil Wash
Symbol: Purple - Vallejo - 70.959 Violet - Vallejo - 70.960 Blue Violet - Vallejo - 70.811 Silvergrey - Vallejo - 70.883
Bases: Dark Sand - Vallejo - 70.847 Dark Sepia - Secret Weapon - W010 Ger. Cam. Black Brown - Vallejo - 70.822 Drying Blood - Secret Weapon - W024 Purple - Vallejo - 70.959 Blue Violet - Vallejo - 70.811
SUBSET NOTES: Dry Brush Dark Sand last
Powered by paintRack v1.21.1.0 for Android by Courageous Octopus! Get it now on Google Play at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.courageousoctopus.paintrack
The digital editions are in epub3 format, which is different to epub. While I normally use Moon reader for my phone I can only seem to read epub3 files right on Kobo reader.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kobobooks.android
Yeah I already have some of the heads. I ended up doing a dodgy photoshop mock up to test the feasibility.
Do you have a kill team list? I don't remember if you posted one
I found your head for you. 3rd row, 2nd from the left. Much better deal than 60 AUD.
Other than that, it sounds like you know what you want and it'll look awesome. I'm not great with conversions or kitbashing, so I'll just stop talking now.
Oh cool, I never knew there was a Warhammer variant of Lost Worlds. I played the crap out of these when I was a little kid. There was also a BattleTech version that got cancelled when FASA lost the ability to use the mech designs they had ripped off from Robotech.
Hello. Broodlords go kind of cheap sometimes. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4684.m570.l1313&_nkw=broodlord&_sacat=See-All-Categories
Also, these guys would like a word with you: http://thetyranidhive.proboards.com/
$100 for a crapton of stuff. The other posters seem to know what they're talking about - but personally I'd rather play something that's fun and a bit on the underdog side - more satisfaction when you do win.
There's Card Empire up in Torrington. 40k gets played I believe the first Sunday of every month, and Fantasy is on the third Sunday (although not many play as of late). I can double check for you if you like. However, there are games going on every day the store is open - check out their facebook group if you're interested.
You know I'm looking through his other auctions, and two things occur to me:
It's a shame he's destroying all of these classic toys to try and make a buck.
This is a fantastic deal for sixteen bucks.
Sisters of twilight and throt the unclean as the dlc lords, with ariel as a hero unit. And skaven chieftain hero and drycha being flc. Here’s the blogpost for anyone who wants to look at the some of the changes being implemented.
Here's what looks like the original thread
I didn't learn enough from one semester of Russian.
IF your interested in seeing what I am thinking for the first mission I uploaded it to google docs(and can upload somewhere else if someone has a better suggestion): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_8shuipUi6ATUtDNEhkNEY4cmc/edit?usp=sharing
I like your drawings! They made me smile :)
Drawing is not so much about being able to product (or reproduce) photo-realistic quality. It is more about being able to convey an idea through visual means. Your drawings seem to be quite capable of that!
If you're considering to start an online strip (without the need to spend money on hosting) - I recommend using the tumblr simple comic theme: https://www.tumblr.com/theme/39018
Be sure to let reddit know when you start posting!
Just re-found the thing you have to do.
"You can manually re-enable the Kaurava campaign. Keep in mind it's not officially supported, so don't expect coverage on any technical/balance issues you encounter in it. Krutchen posted relatively easy instructions to enable it, which I'll shamelessly rip off as I'm not much of a coder :P 1. Download Corsix's Mod Studio, and extract it to your Soulstorm directory. 2. Select load DOW:SS Mod, then your UltimateApocalypse_THB.module 3. Then, follow this path until you get to this file: Data > Art > UI > Screens > Mainmenu.screen 4. Go to line 855, and remove "visible = false," 5. However, this will cover your skirmish button. So I would suggest you additionally go to line 795-799 and change that button's position to: position = { 0.01687, 0.03427, }, The buttons will be all lumped up close to each other, but it'll still work."
https://www.moddb.com/mods/ultimate-apocalypse-mod/tutorials/faq-frequently-asked-questions
Enjoy!
Got mine on Ebay for $45. Just set up an alert and use http://www.gixen.com/ or similar.
$12.36 Double eagle.
Hey mate. The Kickstarter for the company is now live! Please support a new company and get rewarded while you're at it!
The link to the Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/494651479/snake-eyes-supplies-laser-cut-wargaming-supplies-f
You will have a very solid start. Next purchase would probably be the WH40k Rule Book and/or some army books for space marines/orks.
You could also get the previous starter set (Battle for Macragge) if you're more about tyranid/zerg/RidleyScott'sAlien than Orks. Note that it is a little bit OOP (out-of-print).
There are analogous fantasy sets if you are more about cannons and warbeasts than laser cannons and vehicles.
From what's listed in the Codex, yeah, Steel Legion seem to be the only ones that are primarily mechanized. That's the main attraction I have to the army.
While we're here, what do you (or anyone else) think about this auction? Right now it's looking like a stupidly good deal... but it's still got 4 days to go. I'm thinking it's pretty likely that it'll skyrocket in a couple days, but I know you got a pretty awesome deal on those Wolves a few weeks ago and I'm willing to get a little hopeful. Thoughts?
Nope. Not true. In fact, he stumbled upon a multi-dimensional council of Reed Richards. But that all got busted up when the Celestials noticed them trying to fix the universe. I highly highly recommend Hickman's run of Fantastic Four.
It plays a little more like table top in the micro manage sense, nothing beyond that. If you have ever played a hero based RTS you will have a slight feel for this. It is like a hero leading a small group or army (pending on what you do) You have objectives on maps and take and hold objectives. As you progress each map you get resources to summon more troops.
Check out: http://www.systemrequirementslab.com/cyri/
it is a cool site that will let you know how well you can run games on your PC.
DOW II is enough of an RTS that I suck at it. Otherwise I would call it more of a strategy based action game. It has leveling up and loot for heroes as well.
There's a reason the traditional DA color scheme is green armor and red weapons. They are complementary colors. A maroon cape would look fine and be very fluffy/traditional.
If you darkened down a little bit from cobalt that would probably also look pretty decent - a darkish blue can be an analogue of Dark Angels Green and would be interesting/unique.
I would avoid yellow - in addition to being a general pain in the ass to paint, yellow and green are not really related (in the traditional color scheme sense, at least, the Packers may beg to differ).
ETA: Meant to say, check out Paletton for color scheme help.
The bone on the shuriken launcher needs just a bit more depth near the gold parts.
I also feel like there's a distinct need for some small palette complementary areas.
I'm thinking something like
Oh boy, remind me never to play against you! The general rule of thumb for creating a spot color is to take your main color, go to the opposite end of the spectrum, and add a whole bunch of white to it. But, seeing as how you have two complementary colors in your scheme, this doesn't work out so well for us. I created this scheme for you. I like the brighter, easter style teal that complements your darker aqua color already and also your purple because both purple and teal have some blue in them. Play around with Adobe Kuler to see if you can find a spot color you like.
OK.. just checked out how to create a theme from scratch :
http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/24609/create-a-windows-7-theme-pack-from-scratch/
Um.. yeh.. my technical abilities are fairly slim to none. Not sure if I can deliver a theme after-all. =/
Well the instructions for the Kindle 3 are here. Not sure if that can be used on the newer ones though.
I SHALL PROVIDE LINKS!!!
https://www.box.com/s/6rok2xkf75xneaeu9kex rules
https://www.box.com/s/9ma7vknk3lmm241418f1 mission and fate cards!
i tried this with my buddy last weekend, and it is SO MUCH FUN! make 2-3 different lists to try, and you can have 3 games in an hour!
IRC is Internet Relay Chat. It is like an instant messenger where anyone can join your 'Chat'. You need an IRC Client to get connected. Like this one here. In IRC there are servers and channels. Each server holds multiple channels. So it will come up asking you to choose a nickname and a server. Then once you have joined the server type '/join #yourchannelnamehere'.
Further help here
Good Luck!
Hey there! It looks like a disreputable blog has stolen your content. Here is a link to the stolen image:
http://scifigames.tumblr.com/post/100921871249/heres-a-recently-painted-grukk-the-face-rippa
If you did not give this website permission to host your content, and do not like the fact that they have stolen it with no attribution and passed it off as their own, please fill out the following form:
Thank you!
Hey there! It looks like a disreputable blog has stolen your content. Here is a link to the stolen image:
http://scifigames.tumblr.com/post/100930011044/your-citadel-case-paint-design-my-personal-work
If you did not give this website permission to host your content, and do not like the fact that they have stolen it with no attribution and passed it off as their own, please fill out the following form:
Thank you!
Hey there! It looks like a disreputable blog has stolen your content. Here is a link to the stolen image:
http://scifigamer.tumblr.com/tagged/warhammer
you can ctrl+F for "The Devoured, Red Butcher squad leader." (You may need to scroll down a bit to load posts from a month ago) and find your post copied to their blog.
If you did not give this website permission to host your content, and do not like the fact that they have stolen it with no attribution and passed it off as their own, please fill out the following form:
Thank you!
Got this set https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01984G4SU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_518KANCCPWE2T76WVBSE Really good for teaching me the basics of both painting and (most importantly) maintenance before I put my money into a good airbrush. Compressor and tank are great, more than enough for your average painting session. But yes, there’s extra bits and pieces you’ll need, but the other guy covered it pretty comprehensively
I felt the same way until I got it, spent a few minutes with a friend that has one, watched a video and just jumped right in.
A word of caution, don’t buy the $70-$80 ones on Amazon from GoCheer or whatever clone brands exist (small black contained compressor), it’s total garbage. I bought one for $150 (still pretty much entry level) and it’s been glorious.
Timbertech Airbrush Compressor... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LO4PKY2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I suggest using an ultrasonic cleaner. It's used professionally for jewels but it is miraculous on minis. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ultrasonic-Jewellery-LifeBasis-Cigarette-Dentures/dp/B087WN3278/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Ultrasonic+cleaner&qid=1620929401&sr=8-3
This book is fantastic and taught me to paint without washes. I look at it for reference almost every week. I don’t use washes any more.
ZENY Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth Kit w/ LED Lighting & Fun for Painting Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts, w/ 3 LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NGUPC0Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_iOI5p59kRTMWo
The leds are nice to have it is a bit loud tho
A needle point hobby awl helps. It's basically made specifically for the purpose of making an entrance hole, and I find it's way easier to line it up in the dead center of the barrel.
there's one on amazon but seems a bit more expensive than mine was
When I was going to take the airbrush plunge I found a cheap kit on Amazon with a brush and tank compressor.
Came out to around $140. The only reason I stopped using the brush is because I'm an idiot and lost a tiny part, so I stepped up to a Badger. I still use the compressor and it works really well as far as I can tell. Gets hot after a long session, but it holds up!
The comments here are good, definitely don't break the bank right off the bat. Getting good with a cheaper brush will make a well made one really shine.
edit: another reason to start cheap is due to everything else you'll need to get. Thinner, cleaner, mask, maybe even some paints!
Ah, right.
Try searching "clear glue" on Amazon, I found some of the stuff linked at the bottom of that blog post: Elmers Liquid School Glue, Clear, Washable.
I got this drill set off of Amazon. You can also pick up a pair of flush cutters and xacto knives on Amazon as well.
I wrote the "waaagh" on this using a paint pen from Amazon in no time flat, partly because I don't think Orks write neatly
https://savagelyaverageblog.wordpress.com/2017/05/03/new-edition-new-army/
using is brand:
But any will do, so far as the tip is a fine point. Some paint pens are for writing on vehicles/construction/other arts and crafts and they're far too big for detail work
not for this price and did not get it from amazon but thats the same one its far cheaper else ware
Okay, so I went digging around on Amazon and found this! Poor reviews, but it's at least similar to ones I've seen and had in mind.
If you're really enjoying painting I would recommend an airbrush for priming. If you're currently buying GW primers at about $15 a can it only takes about 6 cans to even out; buying a black primer, white primer, and clear coat you're already half way there. It's a little bit of an investment upfront but your range of priming colors goes through the roof, you can prime in any weather, and primers like Vallejo and Badger go on so smooth and thin.
You can pick up a full setup for about $80 on amazon here. I personally use the same airbrush and have been super happy with it.
I do, the cards are good but I have anxiety about them being ruined so I ordered some Dragon Shield clear card protectors from Amazon because I don't want them to get ruined and $10 for 100 sleeves makes me feel better
A Master Airbrush compressor from amazon is my main work horse. It's got a tank so you won't have a buffeting effect from a tankless compressor. Those run about $60-$70. I personally use a harder and steenbeck infinity airbrush but the Iwata Neo or a Badger renegade chrome works great too. With the size of mini's we're using a gravity fed airbrush is what you're looking for rather than a siphon fed since we don't really need to keep a whole bunch of paint in the reservoir. Last recommendation from me is when you're done painting for the day, store your airbrush "wet", which means fill a cup full of water and submerge the airbrush in the cup until you use it next. This keeps any paint that you missed while cleaning from drying out and clogging the brush. Also a good investment is a cleaning kit, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ABEST-Airbrush-Cleaning-Repair-Stainless/dp/B00UFBJGRM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527782597&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush+cleaning+kit
Found the amazon page