What is Reddit's opinion of
Thingiverse?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
100 reviews of this app found across Reddit:
It took about 16 hours to print and was printed on a Cubify Cube 3D printer with PLA plastic. Looking to get an articulating adapter to make it turntable.
Here is a link to the file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329596
It's not as hard as you may think.
There is a bunch of resources to find what you need to build a complete Pi (the Pi itself, an alim, an hdmi cable... Not much more) and there is a prebuilt OS for emulation: https://github.com/petrockblog/RetroPie-Setup/wiki http://emulationstation.org/
As for the case, check out here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:449877
You could go to a 3D Printer and have it for a few bucks!
Take a look at /r/raspberry_pi if you need more advice
Imgur i made a quick model of it in Solidworks for you. its not that great but would give some people an idea. EDIT: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:732565 link to download the .STL
If you can get access to a 3D printer you can print out my glasses adapters. You'll have to modify them to fit your own lenses though. They're also easily removed and reinstalled, which I guess may not matter for some. I'm just an amateur modeler. So, I'm sure in time someone will eventually improve on my design, but for now I'm very pleased with how they came out.
Hello again everyone! Ok here is my new effort to try to print most of the Monster Manuel, grouped alphabetically. This week is the letter D, with new models like the Displacer Beast and a Dracolich. I've also posted some of my older models at the bottom that fit the D catagory. All files can be accessed here: http://www.thingiverse.com/mz4250/designs
Onto letter E! I'm taking requests, and it looks like I'll start with the Ettercap, Elementals, and an Ettin. Wish me luck!
Edit: WOO GOLD!! Thanks!!
Edit 2: Ok I got some requests, so here is Letter B and here is Letter C. I never printed anything in Letter A since I either already had the mini or didn't see a need to fight Angels in my games :-P.
Gah, someone beat me to it, but it's makerbot. A 3d printer for *about 1800. That, coupled with thingverse's library of awesome created items like this portal gun, and hand replacement for broken house hold items *(NOT screws, because they require too much resolution, but other cool things). It is a pretty remarkable and useful technology. Buy one and drive the cost down fro the rest of us!
I have my doubts that they will become as common as 2d printers... corporations can't make tons of money off of them unless they have DRM for items they design... god just saying that drove chills down my spine. Anyways, it's awesome!
EDIT: Apparently I got a couple key things wrong like price and resolution of the machine. Thank you for correcting me!
Thank you! This cage is sized precisely for his leg and bandage - for someone else to be able to use this exact cage would be unlikely. But the design is made in a way that allows someone to just input the numbers for their own needs and print one in the proper size for their own cat.
Since you and /u/Cramenator87 both seemed to think other people would find it useful, I have published the design source code on thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:262844
Depends on how you use it. I've pretty much made fancy versions of dollar store toys and I can produce hundreds of little plastic toys. But the real value is replacing hard to find parts for stuff.
An example is my dad has a rifle, he didn't like how the safety level on it was too short so I took all the dimensions and replicated it in Sketchup, extended the level by 10mm and printed an almost exact copy of the original part. It also is fully functional.
I also have a razer lycosa keyboard and lost one of the tabs underneath it so the keyboard wobbled when raised. I took the other side tab off and messured with calipers and modeled it in sketchup and reproduced a copy of it all within about an hour. I'd normally have to call razer, have them ship me one, shipping and packaging is wasteful and takes gas and energy, I can make the same part without leaving my room
Here's the keyboard tab: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3730
I didn't design it - we get all our designs for the printer from a website called Thingiverse where people upload their own 3D designs for printers, there's quite a community. Basically every day at work I go on there and decide what cool thing I am going to print that day :)
It has quite a wide base so it feels very stable, I don't think it would tip over.
It's made of ABS plastic which is hard - it goes through an extruder at 230 degrees C which melts it and then spits it out like spaghetti - the spaghetti is laid down in layers and it dries hard almost instantly. It's pretty tough but can be brittle along the grain (a bit like wood I suppose).
Edit: fixed link
thingiverse has several gear spheres, though I've never seen this one specifically.
This one is close (32 gear design) but needs some aesthetic tweaking. (even has a banana for scale)
I know it's been almost 5 months since I have done anything with these game pieces but I have finished the final design and I though the subreddit would be interested.
For those new members these are replacement game pieces for the board game battleship based on the board game played in 'Read It and Weep'. These pieces are of my own design and were 3D printed on a Makerbot Replicator. It take just under 2 hours from when I press the GO button until I get a set of game piece.
The headboard of the game board was designed by Themagicalcouch
OP be careful 3d printed parts have fine layers that can get infested with bacteria and are not cleanable with normal care. This is why PLA and ABS are both not food safe. It is best to throw out after a few days and print another if you really want too.
Edit: here is the file in case you would want it http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:240106
To answer some questions:
- STL files are fairly easy to find at the various places.
- Printed on a heavily modified Solidoodle 2 with E3D hotend at .2mm layer height in ABS.
- I printed these mainly because it seemed like a fun challenge and I would like to play with a couple of friends. I wouldn't be able to afford to play otherwise. The quality still doesn't compare to actual models so it isn't going to be the immediate death of GW (they already have all sorts of their own problems to worry about first).
- For gaming in general, 3D printing has a lot going for it. I really like what people like Dutchmogul are doing
Edit: Fixed typo
I will print this and mail it gratis if OP (or the dog's owner if this is a repost) promises to post the video.
Here's a quick & simple model for anyone wanting to print their own: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:284590
I went with a ring to clip on the dog tag holder so the print is fast & simple with no support needed, couldn't think of a better way to do it quickly.
Hey, mod from /r/3dprinting here.
You're right, and while it's cool that they are doing it out of card-stock, this is really just an iteration of something that already existed.
The ability to print a microscope is cool, but printing things like a microscope or even an entire Newtonian telescope isn't new. You're right, that some additional components are needed, but it still takes a device that costs hundreds or thousands of dollars and cuts the price down to a few kilograms of plastic filament and whatever mirrors, lenses or other specialized components are needed.
I think it's worthwhile, even if it is "just" the housing.
I printed this on my MendelMax 2 using ABS. It weighs about 350 grams compared to my Bach Strad which weighs about 1.5 kg.
EDIT: Hijacking my own comment. I've since posted a video of me playing it. as well as uploaded the files to thingiverse.
A friend won a raffle to have something 3d printed by my university's engineering club, and he wanted a nude figurine as a tap handle.
I used this STL file for the body, and mounted it on the black base-of-sorts. They were joined with a plastic epoxy.
I found a threaded insert for wood at Lowes, like this, heated it up and screwed it into a hole that was in the bottom of the base. All the joints are very stong, as is the body itself.
So this is a terminator I found on Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:281929/#files) that I decided to print. It was printed on an Objet 30, a high end professional resin based 3D printer. Also sorry for the crappy pics, I'm not much of a photographer.
I used to have a lot of Space Marines when I was still in Middle School, but ended up stupidly selling them. I have recently got a few models just so I could get into the painting aspect of it. I haven't started painting this but if I do I will update with pics.
I also have an Imperial tank I printed on a hobby level (makerbot style) 3D printer if anyone wanted to see that.
EDIT
Here's the Imperial tank. This model was printed on a Leapfrog 3D printer similar to the Makerbot style printer most people are familiar with. You can see the lines on the model that is from the technology (called FFF, FFM, or FDM, all pretty much the same thing). I am seeing if I can apply enough paint to cover them eventually, if not I'll see if I can sand it smooth, or I can always try to fine tune my settings a bit more to get the resolution a little higher, but it will still most likely need sanding or many coats of paint. The guns on this tank were printed on the Objet 30 which is a much higher resolution professional printer. I haven't decided if I'm going to glue one paticular gun into the turret, or just add something to make it modular.
thingiverse link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:321715
I designed it. This is really crazy seeing it show up after a year or so. It really, really makes me happy to see someone else has printed it. You can find it here on thingiverse, or here on bld3r.
It's actually very precisely measured for my parker, jager, and tweezerman brush, if you look at the images in those links, you'll see the measurements are down to the millimeter to fit the van der hagen boar brush, but using it as a toothbrush stand works too i guess!
You guys might also be interested in a razor disposal box i collaborated on.
Printed in ABS on a uPrint SE Plus.
Yes, they work fine. The stress of the flex on the key is applied through the Z axis across the layers so I don't think they will snap any time soon. I used them last night to much success.
STL here if you want to print your own. The 11 I built took about 8.5 hours.
/u/Akyltour posted this!
> It's not as hard as you may think. > > There is a bunch of resources to find what you need to build a complete Pi (the Pi itself, an alim, an hdmi cable... Not much more) and there is a prebuilt OS for emulation: https://github.com/petrockblog/RetroPie-Setup/wiki http://emulationstation.org/ > > As for the case, check out here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:449877 > > You could go to a 3D Printer and have it for a few bucks! > > Take a look at /r/raspberry_pi if you need more advice
I 3D Printed this for my future campaign. It was modeled in Blender, spliced in Cura, printed on my Printrbot Simple Metal with PLA, then painted with acrylic. I printed each piece out individually, and just super-glued it together.
File can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624569
I should probably put an arrow in it later :-P
Hey, uh, no spam or nothing but I wrote that HaD post.
This is far and beyond the resolution I have for my 3d model, and when you get it (mostly) complete, I'd love to update my model with your data. Credit where credit is due, of course.
I also made Minimus, again at a very low resolution.
Download them here (multiple sizes and configurations), have them printed here
Or, if you don't care about configuring yourself, turnkey ordering here.
Hmm. This is a tricky print to get right, especially with the customers expectations. The quality of your prints look about the same as the parts from the Thingiverse page. It looks like the original parts are injection molded and that was what he was expecting.
I will go ahead and cancel and refund this order, but make sure you are still paid out.
P.S. You can also add ‘Post-Processing’ or any other service fees as a line item to an order - just be sure to communicate the appropriate pricing beforehand.
[Update 2: The Linklings are now let loose on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:679849]
[Update: I have set on the name Linklings suggested by Hanoobslag. That is if no one screams objection. Thanks for all the ideas, you really made it hard to decide!]
I'm looking for a name for them. Suggestions welcome! If anyone likes to already print them in PLA that would be great to know if it works good with them snapping together. I could not try it myself here, my printer gets always clogged with PLA. Here is the file: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2650899/Grabbie12.stl
So I just designed my own Pick and Place head for my 3D printer ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OV2Zr3X-EQc
You can find it on thingiverse here ...
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398024
You can find the github repo here ...
https://github.com/celer/picktor
It uses the a stepper motor and a vacuum pump, both of which are easily controlled with existing 3D printer software and electronics.
While far from perfect it does indeed work as seen in the video. My hope was to spur other people to help carry it further. I stopped working on it when I realized my 3D printer, an ordbot, isn't ideal as it moves the bed.
So now I've acquired a shapeoko with the hope of getting it going there. I don't know if or when I'll finish this project as life is really heck-tic right now.
Short and to the point: This is the requested update to the Battleclouds game pieces from last week. The design is done. I am still working on getting the best print i can out of my 3D printer. Future Updates will happen at my Deviant Art page (linked below). Also linked below is some additional pictures and the Beta CAD file if you want to play around with the design.
Long Version: Ok I have taken the last week and rebuilt the Seagull, Weather Pony, and Thunderbolt from the ground up. As you can see below were a lot of iterations to get to this point. At current it takes about 2 hours to make one full set (single player) and if painted up to 6. I am unsure how much plastic is being used by each set but i can tell you that my 1 Kg spool is looking slimmer. This, like all my MLP CAD work, is going to be released to the community at large. The CAD Files will also be available on Thingiverse sometime in the near future. If you have any questions feel free to ask them.
Would be great to sell it as a product. But I doubt that would be easy and far from cheap. At least letting it print on something like shapeways would be very expensive. I entered the Countertop challenge with it though, maybe something comes out of that: http://www.thingiverse.com/challenges/CountertopChallenge/
Since they released the 3d models over at github.com, I decided to print one out to see how it compared to my other pebbles.
STL can be found over at Thingiverse.com
Edit: Bonus comparison with Pebble Steel
Also, it seems the new Pebble Time is compatible with the original Pebble straps.
prepare to mod the crap out of it. I had one, quality sucks vs price.
edit: I just saw you got it on sale for $300, I take back my quality vs price thing. They retail for $1200 over here but $300 is definitely worth it.
Main mod is a 2nd Z axis rod because the arm will wobble like crazy and put ripples in your prints at high speed.
Possibly a Z axis isolator mod, but really I never really had any need for one after:
Flexible coupler for the threaded rod(s). You'll NEED one because this is what happens with their stupid solid coupler and that WILL translate into rubbish prints.
More solid motor mounts because as the Z axis wobbles, it bends the bracket slightly moving things around.
For the love of god, put the damn Z home screw the right way up. I don't know whether it's fixed in the instructions but they had the head of it facing the switch. Don't do that. Seriously. Just print one of these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:229328 and put the screw in that way round. It makes adjusting it 1000000000000000x easier.
Second print (after the Z adjuster) should be fan mount/ducts: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213218
Then after that, find yourself some belt tensioners. Seriously, you need them. Search thingiverse there's a few, I made my own though so I can't vouch for how well the thingiverse ones work. In a pinch you can just slot the holes in the alu brackets the bearings hold onto and do it that way. It's better than the sloppy crap as they come standard.
Don't forget to tune the motor drivers, so many threads on their forum about it and people not reading the instructions completely, though it isn't in the build instructions but in the print ones (or it was) so check in the (I think) first print section for how to tune them.
Looks like they are combining E-Nable's "flexi hand" with E-Nable's "Limbitless Arm" there.
E-Nable is definitely not for profit. I have no idea what Microsoft was doing there at all. It almost looks like Microsoft trying to claim credit for E-Nable's work.
E-Nable(volunteers) give them away for free too. They aren't "affordable". They are FREE.
I made it now available: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:671647
Sculpted it in Zbrush on the base of a real map. Printed in 0.2mm layer height in natural colored ABS, the water sphere diameter is at ca 10cm. It is printed in 2 parts as a case with the split being at the equator.
- Sketchfab real-time in browser: https://sketchfab.com/models/712c2de7426f4eb59aa101d21cd72492
- Shapeways color printing: http://www.shapeways.com/product/LFWU8VM6X/the-whole-world?li=shop-results&opti
I made this cordless drill attachment to enable smoothie-making in the event of a power outage. It's come in handy twice in the past year.
Help yourself to the STL here.
The fit isn't great, but not bad considering I didn't customize the dimensions at all. Ideally those slots on either side would be for some velcro straps to hold it in place. There's a pretty big gap at the wrist, but I'd probably put padding in there anyways.
You can find the print here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:403001
We need to see more stuff like this.
Print at a lower layer height.
Sand the part with progressively smoother sand paper.
Apply acetone with a paper towel and smooth it out.
Check out the ABS Polishing Experiment.
The New Makerbot Replicator is a closed-source design. No-one I know in the diy-fabricator market will touch it with a 10 foot pole. It's an entry-point for suckers.
Also: Makerbot is in hot water with the open-source reprap community at the moment, over this. 3.2:User Content:License:You hereby grant, and you represent and warrant that you have the right to grant, to Company and its affiliates and partners, an irrevocable, nonexclusive, royalty-free and fully paid, worldwide license to reproduce, distribute, publicly display and perform, prepare derivative works of, incorporate into other works, and otherwise use your User Content, and to grant sublicenses of the foregoing, solely for the purposes of including your User Content in the Site and Services. You agree to irrevocably waive (and cause to be waived) any claims and assertions of moral rights or attribution with respect to your User Content.
Open source protects inventors through share and share alike with guaranteed attribution. This is straight-up IP theft, of the kind facebook and their ilk employ.
From left to right: Flesh, Iron, Stone, and Clay Golems!
I modeled these in Blender, spliced in Cura, and printed with my Printrbot Simple Metal. Painted with basic acrylic.
Files can be accessed here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:606143
There are 3D printed solutions available, two iterations that I've made and one that I just discovered.
If you can't print one yourself, I could do it for you. I'm doing a test print of the new one now, it looks like it would easily fit in an envelope. I can do it for the cost of shipping and plastic, should be $1-2 total depending on your location. I only have orange plastic at the moment, but if you really wanted another color, we could work it out.
Those are really the best.
Him: "Daddy, this broke."
Me: "Where's the piece that fell out?"
Him: "I don't know"
grabs calipers
I can fix this.
These will be going in Minecraft themed party favor bags along with a few other Minecraft themed snacks and toys.
I downloaded this model from Thingiverse. Credit where it's due: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:83942
I'm in Malaysia, so hardware hacking options are limited/non-existent (locally).
I'm not too sure I want to resort to that for the 3DS yet. I like the portability (just bring around a small anti-slip), I play mostly at work. During breaks only, I promise!
If it were the Classic Controller Pro I would be more tempted, I tried that to play MH Tri before. Very usable (barring underwater).
Additional tools are certainly things I may look at for general PC gaming! Thanks for the mention though. Something like this (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:166299) but extended to be pushable located below the XYBA buttons would be interesting.
Definitely! Here's an imgur album, and here's the design files for both. Car Mount. Webcam Mount
Its as easy as finding the size of the suction cup and making a t-shaped hole for it to sit in and a way for it to get into that hole. In both my designs I used a slightly smaller t-shaped channel for it to go through and discourage it from slipping out.
This one allows charging while de mod is in the stand. Also, i think it looks way cooler :-)
Edit: i can put the .stl online tonight if anyone wants it.
Edit 2: I would like to thank everyone for the nice comments. That really means a lot to me! For everyone wanting to buy one, i'm sorry but i am not going planning to sell them (yet?). I will however share the design so you can print your own. If you don't have (a friend with) a 3D printer, check out http://www.3dhubs.com/ for a printer near you
Here is the stl file (I put my nickname on the bottom, if you don't like that you're going to have to edit the stl file)
If you decide to print one, I would appreciate it if you share it on the thingiverse page! (click "I made one" and upload a photo)
Hi there, Industrial designer here!
1) the printers usually print from an STL file, which you can spit out of any CAD program (google sketchup, solidworks etc), or download free from sites like http://www.thingiverse.com/
2) mainly ABS plastic, though PLA (plant based) can also be used. I buy ABS from china for $16 per kilo, which goes a loooong way.
3) You can build them for about $500 yourself, or buy one that is ready to go like the UP! 3d printer for about $1500. They have a new model aimed at $1k coming out soon.
4) here is a video of the process from a Uni project I did a while back.. far out shit!!
5) get one!!!
4 things:
12 hours? how big is this? did you print it solid? Unless it's like a 5" cube, this shouldn't have taken more than 5 hours or so. I hope you printed it in a loose fill or you wasted a ton of plastic
the best home 3D printer right now is the PP3DP UP! for ~$1700 and the new UP! mini for about $1000 (almost the same size, actually). If you know what you're doing and have a well calibrated printer, you can print stuff that can be mistaken for prints that come from a $15,000 Stratasys Dimension uPrint.
Why does Portal get so much fan-art? It's an OK game and fairly unique, but it's no Mario or Sonic.
Why is this getting gushing everywhere, but my friend made a GOD DAMN VIDEO GAME CONTROLLER FROM SCRATCH and 3D printed it and it got downvoted off the "new" page?
There are massive catalogs of useful items that are public domain to make with 3D printers. Small latches, cups, vacuum replacement parts, phone mounts for photography, specialized wall hooks, keyholder mounts for light switches, replacement game pieces, cabinet knobs and handles, I have yet to find the end of these databases. You may want to check them out! One of my favorites is http://www.thingiverse.com/
http://jalopnik.com/you-can-download-and-3d-print-a-working-toyota-drivetra-1691382496
And directly to the designs:
http://www.thingiverse.com/ericthepoolboy/designs
As far as cost...it varies so much (3d printing) that it's hard to answer that directly. But if you had the printer/knew someone that had one then yeah, it wouldn't be too bad. If not, then that's where it can really vary.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:691403 - Rack http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:692866 - Fan Mount
Before I built the fan mount, the middle one was running about 60 degrees C. I just checked the temp of it again with the fans running, and it's at 37 degrees C.
There's enough room around the cases to let the air flow. Just let me know if you have any other questions or anything.
Modified and prepped for printing in Blender. Spliced in Cura. Printed with my Printrbot Simple Metal with 1.75mm PLA. Painted with acrylic.
Files located here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:463063
Original Thingiverse artist: skipmontinola
Enjoy!
Got a brand new Pax 2 weeks ago. My only problem with it was that it was a little difficult to load the oven with clumsy fingers. So, I built a funnel and tamper 3d model and printed them on a 3d printer. They make loading and mixing MUCH easier. I can post pictures of the printed products later if you guys want.
My link above is for the funnel. Here is the tamper that goes with it: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:586779
When this was posted a couple weeks ago I modeled it in Sketchup and put it on thingiverse so you can download the files and 3D print it if you happen to have one. Somebody from Germany went crazy and turned it into a whole system.
To answer some questions, his paw got broken in two places while he was under the watch of a petsitter and we were out of town. The petsitter was irresponsible and of course we wouldn't have them again. We had a veterinary surgeon implant a couple of titanium pins to hold things in place while they heal, and he has to be kept in a confined room with no jumping about for two months while it heals up.
The design is a quick prototype that's parametric; you just input the length and diameter of both his bandage and his leg and it outputs a model ready to print. This initial version just uses four zipties to hold it on, perhaps if I get fancy I'll build in a hinge and some kind of snap mechanism.
I have published the design freely here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:262844 and will probably update it so that the parametric options are available directly on the website.
/u/srbistan asks "what about blood flow?" to which I responded, I think it is all right because there is about a mm or two of 'looseness' around where it touches the leg at the top, and just the slightest amount of pressure on the soft bandage. I might try a slightly larger one still, and stuff the extra space with some cotton balls.
Original thread here: http://www.reddit.com/r/somethingimade/comments/1zhyfr/my_cat_had_to_wear_a_cone_of_shame_so_he_didnt/
Here are some links to help others interested like myself :
This was created by a German photographer by the name of Jonas Ginter. I believe he used 6 go-pro's and attached them to a monopod through the use of a 3-D printed mount:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:650048
Edit: Links to the tinkercad projects are in the Thingiverse entry. All I did was measure up a 1U bracket to join in, nothing fancy. The original modeler of the enclosure did all the hard work. =P
I made the base design in solidworks, exported as STL. Imported the STL in MeshLab to create the voronoi pattern.
Printed on my Zortrax M200 using these settings:
Material: Z-ABS, black
Layer height: 0,29 mm
Support: 10 degrees (20 degrees would probably have given a cleaner print, but that would have been a real pain to remove). I used support lite.
Total print time: a bit under 20 hours
The height of the stand is about 20 cm and it is about 11 cm deep so the ear pads of my headphone fit.
Edit: STL available: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:641301
His listed interests were Borderlands, Breaking Bad, and a few kinds of booze. These have been vapor-treated in an attempt at food safety. I used meshes from thingiverse for the vault and methylamine insignias, and did SVG-surgery for the reddit logo.
Update: sent them a T-shirt instead. Its a shame to send something with nothing of the sender in it, but not worth endangering someone's health over.
The people with food safety concerns in this thread are probably right, but the responses to subsequent questions with downvotes and snide comments instead of constructive suggestions were very discouraging.
File can be accessed here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:539669
Modeled in Blender, printed on my Printrbot Simple Metal, and painted with acrylic.
Tentacles were made by VeerleC, and can be accessed here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:172713
Here is a model for Moya and some pictures of when I printed it. There used to be a model of a pulse pistol on thingiverse but has since disappeared. Unfortunately that model was terrible and had lots of internal surfaces which caused the print times to be way too long. I was in the process of removing some of the issues with that model but haven't had time to finish it.
As for other Farscape things to print, you will most likely model something yourself of commission someone to do it for you. Ive been scouring the web for anything in the way of farscape 3D models for a while now and been pretty unsuccessful.
A quick note on the Moya model, If your friend is using ABS as the print material, carefully monitor for curling as Moya's nose likes to lift up causing a bit of a lip
Feel free to ask if you have any other questions.
Just in case you haven't heard of Thingiverse, they have a little bit of rpg stuff. Better searching will probably yield more.
If Makerbot's claims hold, the Replicator 2 is going to be one of the better home 3d printers you can get. Other printers are going to require far more work to set up (Reprap) or are generally going to have thicker layers (i.e., worse resolution) unless you spend lots and lots of money.
If you care about open source hardware, the Replicator 2 doesn't look like it will be. That might not be official, though.
I have a 3d printer, and I'm getting into Warhammer again. While my printer (an old Thingomatic and officially obsolete already) cannot manage anywhere near the detail of a Games Workshop model yet, I AM using it to print easy-to-assemble watchtower terrain.
Example of unpainted (but primed) Skaven-inspired watchtower model here. As you can see, the resolution and print quality is a little wonky, but that's only going to get better over time.
The quality of some home machines is getting much better - for example the B9 resin printer that was recently kickstarted can achieve some startling resolutions (check out the Eiffel Tower print).
While looking at Youtube videos of 3d printers I stumbled across one making a Fennec Fox.
After we got our 3D printer I searched around and found the exact same Fennec Fox model on an open source website! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20748 Same thing with the Tree Frog.
The Hippo I made. I actually used our 3D laser scanner (also new to us) to scan a stress toy I had at my desk. Then I tweaked it a little in solidworks and scaled it down before printing out the mini version.
Edit:
Laser scanner brand is NextEngine
Here it is, a little late... my 100% original WiiMote Pistol! Its fully functional and has a trigger that presses the B button, for playing all your favorite rail shooters! It has two pieces and its completely 3d printed! I juuuuust released this to Thingiverse, enjoy!
Here is the video /u/MaceRider posted yesterday and here's the download link for those who are interested.
If you want more detail on how it works I suggest you watch /u/MaceRiders video since he explains it much better than my video does.
Edit:
It's up on Shapeways for about $2,
It's so cheap because:
1: It's very little material.
2: I don't feel comfortable making money on something that wasn't originally my idea, so I don't. Everything you pay goes to Shapeways.
3: I've only fired about 200 rounds with it. Even though it didn't fail once it hasn't been fielded yet.
4: It works on my 3D-printer, but Shapeways and my settings may differ a lot. Which could result in different dimension. If that's the case, it could be a small useless piece of plastic.
Though, personally I would go for it since it's less than $2.
He failed Lolth once, but not again!
I modeled him in Blender, spliced in Cura, printed with my Printrbot Simple Metal with standard PLA, and painted with acrylic. The bottom spider half was a BITCH to print, but I succeeded in the end by making the legs fatter.
File is located here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:684832
Hey, sorry for the delayed response and thanks for the kind words! As for scale, it is 17"x9".
I'm not currently selling these...but I'm listening...
But seriously, anyone with a 3D printer, feel free to download the plans here... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:682976
Actually didn't make the case, took it from: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:449877
OS from: http://blog.petrockblock.com/retropie/
Controller: http://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-Classic-USB-Gamepad-PC/dp/B002B9XB0E
Only thing they made was a website and some money.
Hello again! From left to right we have:
Ranged goblin, hobgoblin, bugbear, and melee goblin.
I modeled these in Blender, spliced in Cura, printed with my Printrbot Simple Metal with standard PLA, and painted with basic acrylic.
Files can be located here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:672497
Definitely do this... Since I've started calibrating with the cube tower, the best way I've used to figure out the good from bad is to destroy the tower. Visually it's a bit hard to tell especially with PLA. I just squeeze two opposite corners with two fingers, slowly going the length of the tower, it'll break, but you can feel which sections are hardest to break and you get a louder snap.
Once I get the best temp from the tower (say 220) I then move to printing this squirrel off thingiverse [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11705] around the range (so 210/215/220/225/230 for the 220 example). Since it's a squirrel with more detail it's easier to look at the layers and compare the quality, I also break these.
Edit: Guess I should note, the squirrel is printed hollow with no support.
- iPad Air 2 128GB Cellular w/Apple Black Leather Case
- Lumix GF6 Micro 4/3 w/MegaGear Case, Lumix G 1:1.7/20mm, The Friendly Swede XL Strap
- iPhone 6+ 64GB w/ Apple Black Leather Case
- Apple Black Leather Note Book
- Headline Alternatives Solvent Free THC Cart
- Zebra .7mm Stylus Pen
- Flowfold Wallet
- Stanley Small Flask w/ 5oz of Four Roses Small Batch
- Nite Ize DoohicKey Black
- Exotac Keychain System
- Miniature Sailboat Block (for knocking on wood)
- 3d Printed KeyBlade (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:615124)
- Glock 23 Gen4 w/ DeSantis Cargo Holster
- Spyderco Tenacious
- Plantronics PLT Edge w/ charging case
The gritty details about that print:
- Lulzbot Taz 4 printer
- This from thingiverse
- IC3D 3mm ABS filament from Amazon
- 230C Nozzle 85C bed
- "Normal quality" Cura profile from the Lulzbot website
- No supports!
- Print time around 8 hours or so
I had a lot of fun getting this to work. I still have a few issues I need to work on (for example Z-ribbing) but I am well on my way to getting those dialed in.
Thanks for looking!
This is a modified model that was originally a LOL figure an awesome artist, "PandolarBear" had posted on Thingiverse. His awesome original model is located here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:363311
I modified this in Blender, spliced in Cura, printed with my Printrbot Simple Metal, and painted with acrylic.
File located here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:606396
Urge? Ummm.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:415587
After the first print of this broke, I printed it out about eight more times with different settings of temp and infill, to see how readily they broke.
The first few broke like toothpicks. Mostly, my temp was a bit low, and bringing it up made it pretty strong.... but with the right temps, the hundred percent infill appears strong enough to bar the door during a zombie invasion. I was impressed.
I've got my design up here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:375828
The only resource I used is there. It's just two EasyDrivers and a simple LM317 based circuit with a relay for the laser all hooked up to an arduino uno running the latest version of GRBL.
More photos are in my photoset, some with a banana for scale: https://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/sets/72157649275247966/
The skull was printed using gold PLA from SeeMeCNC and the model can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:472463
I ended up scaling up the print by 2.5x and had to chop it in Netfabb to fit it on my Graber i3.
They're called pencil pot monsters, I 3D Printed one for the office in my apt, and then my @work office
If you have access to a 3D Printer you can find the original model here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:154516
The model's on Tinkercad here, the two models I combined are this hulk and this rooster.
Is it just me or does this get asked at least once a month? There should be some pinned topic about this so we can all point and go "there".
Blender. I use Blender because it's got a combination of cad-like precision and artistic tool and the price is right. I've used it on over 100 models. I've even gone and written a how-to book on the subject.
I printed these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42776 out on my MakerBot Replicator 2 "disclaimer I work for them" I'm thinking of furnishing my whole table with exclusively 3d printed terrain. What do you guys think?
Sense I haven't logged in my real one in what seems like a year.
I made this, one I can actually look at least look at other than the login screen.
Some info.
Source: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:151021/#files
^^General ^^info
^^Printed ^^at ^^0.1mm ^^layer ^^height
^^PLA ^^plastic
^^About ^^3 ^^Hours ^^to ^^print
Wish I knew how to paint.
So I built the CNC laser over the last year and a half using Bart Dring's design over at buildlog.net. There's a couple pictures at the end of it in process as proof, sometime maybe I'll post a somethingimade of a laser cutter.... Anyways, I just started cutting stuff out and saw some sweet tiles on Thingiverse and link2 and did a lot of tweaking, enlarging numbers, making some of my own tiles, etc. Cut them out and they work amazing.
I hope no-one minds me shamelessly plugging these in my Etsy store. Feel free to use coupon code REDDIT to take 25% off.
I don't think you watched the video. The concept is actually printing with a continuous strand of woven carbon fiber yarn/string. It's similar to the stuff I saw used on this Thingiverse object. The company also claims to print with nylon fiber, kevlar, and fiberglass as you can see here. Doesn't look like bullshit to me.
Hey, thought you guys would probably like what I've done - http://imgur.com/a/etzUx.
I have a CODE104 with Cherry MX Clears however I always knew I was going to get some LED covers to change the colour of the white LEDs. I tried one of those Banggood rainbow sets however was quite disappointed with how dim it made the LEDs, and I didn't like the colours of the green. So I thought I'd make my own, and this is the result.
I used around 6m (less than $1) of filament to make these, a couple hours of printing (probably would take less than 3h if you were doing all 104 in one go (all print speed dependent)) so these are significantly more cost effective if you have access to a 3D printer over the Banggood versions.
Here's the STL if anyone wants it: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:584912
EDIT::::: Trying to reply as quickly as possible but reddit is forcing me to wait around 10 minutes between replies >.>
I use mine to make useful things on a regular basis. For example: door stop, chip bag clip, hook for hanging a wash cloth in the shower, bracket for holding the fridge door open while I load groceries into it. I also often work on projects for my car and around the house and have designed and printed special custom parts for those projects. I should note that having access to decent CAD software and knowing how to use it is pretty important if you want to use the printer for anything beyond printing trinkets you find on thingiverse.
Here are a couple of other useful things I have designed and printed: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:134995 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199968
Eye Tyrant, Eye of Frost, and Eye of Flame were 3D Printed. Files can be found here
Modeled in Blender, and printed with Printrbot Simple Metal.
I split the beholders right behind the eye stalks for printing. Air dry clay was used to fill the gaps. For the clay sculpted ones, which I submitted here before, I just made with baking clay. All painted with basic acrylic.
If you just want a printer to play around with, printerbot simple is $300 and surprisingly decent. I am yet to calibrate it well enough to print moving parts, but it'd be perfectly fine for a bulbasaur print. I believe this is OP's print. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:327753
That's surely today?
http://www.kogan.com/au/buy/davinci-10-3d-printer/
$700+delivery, $40/filament reel
I don't know what your fetish is, but thingiverse probably has something that can fulfil it.
When I ordered the qubd extruders, I noticed the heater cartridges were ~$14 a piece. Screw that, I just drilled out the heater blocks to 6mm and installed two of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/gib-New-12V-40W-Ceramic-Cartridge-Heater-for-3D-Printer-Prusa-Mendel-1m-/181218124256?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a317121e0 It's pretty safe to do even with a hand drill. Just step up from 5mm up in small increments until the cartridge is a relatively snug fit.
Word of warning though, if you're planning on extruding PLA, you'll need this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/25mm-QU-BD-PTFE-lined-Barrel-Solve-1-75mm-3D-Printer-6mm-barrel-jamming-issue-/321274121247?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4acd6e0c1f Also, the grub screw feeder is rubbish, you should replace with http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21686 ASAP. I would also recommend you replace the feed gear with a proper MK7 or clone, since the "raptor" gear is also rubbish.
In other words, it's a great extruder if you replace the majority of the parts with other parts ;)
I designed it on tinkercad and printed it on a Prusa i3. Used some model paint to get the metalic look. Very happy with the results. here is the link were you can download the part if you want to print it yourself.
It was a test print for new resin (Spot-HT). First attempt - I know, it's not perfect, but I think you should like it. :).
Printed as two parts in 75x44 and 100x44 microns. Overall size - 18x7x10cm. Printing time - 23h with something like 4000 layers. Model from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35798
There was a Kickstarter project that got funded that did this. They also released specs on Thingverse and they may start selling direct soon.
I submit my copper bracelet with custom patina process: http://imgur.com/a/dR90p
process:
- print with Colorfabb Copperfill at 2 shells, 10%, .2mm, sand up to 220 grit
- soak paper towels with clear ammonia and place at bottom of a plastic container.
- apply generous amount of table salt and water to the print and hang above the ammonia (see photo). cover with saran wrap.
- watch the patina develop closely. In this case it was a little over 3 hours.
- rinse off the salt and let air dry.
- optional: lacquer with any clearcoat
Okay so printed this from thingiverse and thought it was kind of cool. Tell me what you guys think or what I should print next I'm open to suggestions! Send me links of files on thingiverse and I'll print and share.
This thing can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:587356
Its fast with OpenSCAD to design customizable game parts: I desigend temple pieces for Tikal which stack up to form a complete temple. Volcanoes and a counter for the action points are also available.
The design is on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53708
If you're using an E3 Hotend, Dan added some files for the central printing hub: https://github.com/pastudan/DeltaPi/tree/e3d-hotend