I actually got my initial inspiration from this design which had links to the code for the arduino. I only tweaked the code a bit to make the eye more mobile. And the 3d design I made can be found here
It took about 16 hours to print and was printed on a Cubify Cube 3D printer with PLA plastic. Looking to get an articulating adapter to make it turntable.
Here is a link to the file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329596
Ok Imma hijack the top comment to explain that I’m the guy who gave these to her and found her tweet after the date. Pls stop saying keeper and Marry him I’m so embarrassed lol.
She seemed like she could take a good dirty-ish joke so I thought I’d give her the Dickosaur as an intro to one of my hobbies, 3D printing. And she absolutely loved it.
The flower was a result of me getting my mother a flower arrangement for her birthday the next day and just asked if she wanted one while I was in the store and got her one as well.
And no I did not model this after my peener and it can’t be used as a sex toy cause it’s like 4 cm tall.
STL for the dickosaur: https://cults3d.com/fr/modèle-3d/coquin/dino-dick
I’m glad you guys enjoyed my weird silly gifts.
Trebuchetchy vs the Fast Attack Missile Benchy
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5EkmOyykDnZ-trebuchetchy#/
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/48H1tMsqmwH-fast-attack-missile-benchy#/
I used woodfill, was really painful to clean up the strings
I've been printing and leaving pokemon at various pokestops and gyms in my neighborhood. I want to print up a bunch more and roam a bit wider.
I need to give a shout out to Agustin Flowalistik - whose models I've been printing. You can find a nice little collection here: https://www.youmagine.com/ultimaker/collections/low-poly-pokemon
I just hope they're found and they bring a little smile to people's faces.
-- Edit: Since this continues to get attention on twitter as well, I've started tagging my related tweets with #pokeprint -- please feel free to do the same so we can see how big things get!
Imgur i made a quick model of it in Solidworks for you. its not that great but would give some people an idea. EDIT: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:732565 link to download the .STL
Aw, shucks. That's my design. I'm pleased you like it. It's turned out well too.
I've also released a larger version for pint glasses, if anyone's interested.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/self-righting-gimballed-drinks-holder-2020-pint-glass-version
If you can get access to a 3D printer you can print out my glasses adapters. You'll have to modify them to fit your own lenses though. They're also easily removed and reinstalled, which I guess may not matter for some. I'm just an amateur modeler. So, I'm sure in time someone will eventually improve on my design, but for now I'm very pleased with how they came out.
Nope, but you can find the 3D model here. Then, many 3D printing services will print this one for you (Materialise, 3D Hubs, Sculpteo, Shapeways...).
Thank you! This cage is sized precisely for his leg and bandage - for someone else to be able to use this exact cage would be unlikely. But the design is made in a way that allows someone to just input the numbers for their own needs and print one in the proper size for their own cat.
Since you and /u/Cramenator87 both seemed to think other people would find it useful, I have published the design source code on thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:262844
Depends on how you use it. I've pretty much made fancy versions of dollar store toys and I can produce hundreds of little plastic toys. But the real value is replacing hard to find parts for stuff.
An example is my dad has a rifle, he didn't like how the safety level on it was too short so I took all the dimensions and replicated it in Sketchup, extended the level by 10mm and printed an almost exact copy of the original part. It also is fully functional.
I also have a razer lycosa keyboard and lost one of the tabs underneath it so the keyboard wobbled when raised. I took the other side tab off and messured with calipers and modeled it in sketchup and reproduced a copy of it all within about an hour. I'd normally have to call razer, have them ship me one, shipping and packaging is wasteful and takes gas and energy, I can make the same part without leaving my room
Here's the keyboard tab: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3730
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/improved-filament-run-out-sensor#documents
A perfect use for one of your filament spool remnants- uses only 7-8 g of filament and prints in just a few minutes.
Wire the miniature snap-action switch to your controller board and set the configuration to stop or pause the printer when the switch closes or opens.
I didn't design it - we get all our designs for the printer from a website called Thingiverse where people upload their own 3D designs for printers, there's quite a community. Basically every day at work I go on there and decide what cool thing I am going to print that day :)
It has quite a wide base so it feels very stable, I don't think it would tip over.
It's made of ABS plastic which is hard - it goes through an extruder at 230 degrees C which melts it and then spits it out like spaghetti - the spaghetti is laid down in layers and it dries hard almost instantly. It's pretty tough but can be brittle along the grain (a bit like wood I suppose).
Edit: fixed link
thingiverse has several gear spheres, though I've never seen this one specifically.
This one is close (32 gear design) but needs some aesthetic tweaking. (even has a banana for scale)
Yes indeed the STL files are available here for sale. And all other info and video of the kayak in action can be found here
OP be careful 3d printed parts have fine layers that can get infested with bacteria and are not cleanable with normal care. This is why PLA and ABS are both not food safe. It is best to throw out after a few days and print another if you really want too.
Edit: here is the file in case you would want it http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:240106
To answer some questions:
Edit: Fixed typo
I will print this and mail it gratis if OP (or the dog's owner if this is a repost) promises to post the video.
Here's a quick & simple model for anyone wanting to print their own: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:284590
I went with a ring to clip on the dog tag holder so the print is fast & simple with no support needed, couldn't think of a better way to do it quickly.
Hey, mod from /r/3dprinting here.
You're right, and while it's cool that they are doing it out of card-stock, this is really just an iteration of something that already existed.
The ability to print a microscope is cool, but printing things like a microscope or even an entire Newtonian telescope isn't new. You're right, that some additional components are needed, but it still takes a device that costs hundreds or thousands of dollars and cuts the price down to a few kilograms of plastic filament and whatever mirrors, lenses or other specialized components are needed.
I think it's worthwhile, even if it is "just" the housing.
I printed this on my MendelMax 2 using ABS. It weighs about 350 grams compared to my Bach Strad which weighs about 1.5 kg.
EDIT: Hijacking my own comment. I've since posted a video of me playing it. as well as uploaded the files to thingiverse.
Yes this is avaliable in Cults and Thingiverse for free. I tried to upload a video but Reddit keeps removing it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2977783/comments
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/nintendo-openrc-mariokart
Over the past few months, I have been designing and printed this axe that holds dice and miniatures. Throughout all of that time, this community has inspired me to keep creating this. I don’t want to be that guy who self promotes, but if you are interested, here is the link.-
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dnd-dice-axe-dungeons-and-dragons
A friend won a raffle to have something 3d printed by my university's engineering club, and he wanted a nude figurine as a tap handle.
I used this STL file for the body, and mounted it on the black base-of-sorts. They were joined with a plastic epoxy.
I found a threaded insert for wood at Lowes, like this, heated it up and screwed it into a hole that was in the bottom of the base. All the joints are very stong, as is the body itself.
You seem to be into sturdy construction. You might find that printed parts would hold up better if you spread the load on them over a larger surface area by putting some washers under the heads of the screws. Star lock washers in combination with flat washers will keep the screws from loosening, too. Split ring lock washers don't work, so don't bother with them.
In the photo, the plastic is clearly deformed by the screws that anchor the part to the t-slot. You might want to make the plastic part a slightly tighter fit before you add the screw. That way it will deform less, again, reducing stress on the plastic part.
Finally, look into modifier meshes in Slic3r. They allow you to control fill density for specific areas in a print. In this case, you could make the fill right around the screw holes solid which would be much stronger.
Printed in ABS on a uPrint SE Plus.
Yes, they work fine. The stress of the flex on the key is applied through the Z axis across the layers so I don't think they will snap any time soon. I used them last night to much success.
STL here if you want to print your own. The 11 I built took about 8.5 hours.
Damn, that's super impressive. If you want more for 1:10 car collection there's this Lancia Stratos: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/lancia-stratos-1-10-scale-model-kit
Dumbass stop trying to sell these; the model you downloaded has a non commercial license. Stop trying to make money from other peoples work! link to STL
"Oh shit. Oh God. Oh fuck. Fuck this, just call in the Mantas, we're leaving."
*edit "So if the Earth Caste would just get their asses in gear and stopped fuckn around, we could have REALLY BIG GUNS that would make any Imperial Titan turn tail and run" - whatever absolute madlad thought it would be a good idea to make this unit.
I don't get the impression that most on this sub frequents r/vitahacks so I thought I post this here as well. The files are available for sale on Cults3D: https://cults3d.com/en/game/ergonomic-grip-for-ps-vita-v2-pch-1000. The old version is still avavible for free on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2120609.
Hi!
I made this mostly with Kill Team in mind. I have a youtube channel where I ramble about this if you'd rather watch than read!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxLCTnpP1b0
This was 3d printed, I build it in tinkercad for my old Samsung Galaxy S5. If per chance you want to have a looksie, then the tinkercad file is here:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2EPLyIix3UZ
I apologise for the terrible meme, I just made it quickly to demonstrate it.
Thanks.
I 3D Printed this for my future campaign. It was modeled in Blender, spliced in Cura, printed on my Printrbot Simple Metal with PLA, then painted with acrylic. I printed each piece out individually, and just super-glued it together.
File can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624569
I should probably put an arrow in it later :-P
I plugged my earlier version on this sub a few months ago and I thought I'd hazard doing it again. It's not free anymore which might not sit well with some, but considering the time and energy that has gone into redesigning it; I don't feel bad charging for it https://cults3d.com/en/game/ergonomic-grip-for-ps-vita-v2-pch-1000. The old one is still available on Thingiverse and it will remain free https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2120609.
Hey, uh, no spam or nothing but I wrote that HaD post.
This is far and beyond the resolution I have for my 3d model, and when you get it (mostly) complete, I'd love to update my model with your data. Credit where credit is due, of course.
I also made Minimus, again at a very low resolution.
I'll be that guy.
This is so cool and useful that you should probably post it to additional repositories, like https://cubehero.com/ and https://www.youmagine.com/ . With the way Makerbot, the owner of Thingiverse, has been, you probably don't want to leave it just with them.
Hmm. This is a tricky print to get right, especially with the customers expectations. The quality of your prints look about the same as the parts from the Thingiverse page. It looks like the original parts are injection molded and that was what he was expecting.
I will go ahead and cancel and refund this order, but make sure you are still paid out.
P.S. You can also add ‘Post-Processing’ or any other service fees as a line item to an order - just be sure to communicate the appropriate pricing beforehand.
[Update 2: The Linklings are now let loose on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:679849]
[Update: I have set on the name Linklings suggested by Hanoobslag. That is if no one screams objection. Thanks for all the ideas, you really made it hard to decide!]
I'm looking for a name for them. Suggestions welcome! If anyone likes to already print them in PLA that would be great to know if it works good with them snapping together. I could not try it myself here, my printer gets always clogged with PLA. Here is the file: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2650899/Grabbie12.stl
Designed (Fusion 360) and printed (Silver Monoprice PLA on Monoprice Maker Select v2) these grips for my Nintendo New 3DS.
Prints in 3 parts (top and 2 grips), easily glued together. The 3DS is held in with friction for easy removal, but does not drop out even when held upside down. Pictured parts lightly sanded to make it completely smooth to the touch.
Short and to the point: This is the requested update to the Battleclouds game pieces from last week. The design is done. I am still working on getting the best print i can out of my 3D printer. Future Updates will happen at my Deviant Art page (linked below). Also linked below is some additional pictures and the Beta CAD file if you want to play around with the design.
Long Version: Ok I have taken the last week and rebuilt the Seagull, Weather Pony, and Thunderbolt from the ground up. As you can see below were a lot of iterations to get to this point. At current it takes about 2 hours to make one full set (single player) and if painted up to 6. I am unsure how much plastic is being used by each set but i can tell you that my 1 Kg spool is looking slimmer. This, like all my MLP CAD work, is going to be released to the community at large. The CAD Files will also be available on Thingiverse sometime in the near future. If you have any questions feel free to ask them.
Would be great to sell it as a product. But I doubt that would be easy and far from cheap. At least letting it print on something like shapeways would be very expensive. I entered the Countertop challenge with it though, maybe something comes out of that: http://www.thingiverse.com/challenges/CountertopChallenge/
OPR is now providing free test print models for all of our releases on Cults3D! Please make sure to like our models and follow our page to help us grow!
Get 15 free models here: https://cults3d.com/en/users/onepagerules/creations
The files come both supported and unsupported, and they're perfect for you to try our models before you buy them. Don't forget you get 50% discount on all models in our MMF store by supporting us on Patreon.
STL can be found here - Not my design, I found it while browsing online and thought it would be a great weekend build. Printed in PLA at 1.5x scale of the STL, sits about 160mm tall and is roughly 300mm end to tip of knife. Primed, sanded, weathered, and highlighted with rub'n'buff silver.
In the future I'd like to print a life sized version and include a motion activated spinning knife, maybe more.
Edit: This creature is from the series Black Mirror, Season 4 Episode 5.
Whosawhatsis quick print gear bearing https://www.youmagine.com/designs/quick-print-gear-bearing
Printed in PLA at 0.3mm layer height on a printrbot simple metal w/heated bed
other color configurations: http://i.imgur.com/01dB8Um.jpg
I originally made this for a Digital 3d class that im in. I made it in the beginning of last semester. The teacher has us use Tinkercad for the first semester and Onshape in the second (hence why the file is on Tinkercad)
Looks like they are combining E-Nable's "flexi hand" with E-Nable's "Limbitless Arm" there.
E-Nable is definitely not for profit. I have no idea what Microsoft was doing there at all. It almost looks like Microsoft trying to claim credit for E-Nable's work.
E-Nable(volunteers) give them away for free too. They aren't "affordable". They are FREE.
I made this cordless drill attachment to enable smoothie-making in the event of a power outage. It's come in handy twice in the past year.
Help yourself to the STL here.
The fit isn't great, but not bad considering I didn't customize the dimensions at all. Ideally those slots on either side would be for some velcro straps to hold it in place. There's a pretty big gap at the wrist, but I'd probably put padding in there anyways.
You can find the print here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:403001
We need to see more stuff like this.
Print at a lower layer height.
Sand the part with progressively smoother sand paper.
Apply acetone with a paper towel and smooth it out.
Check out the ABS Polishing Experiment.
The New Makerbot Replicator is a closed-source design. No-one I know in the diy-fabricator market will touch it with a 10 foot pole. It's an entry-point for suckers.
Also: Makerbot is in hot water with the open-source reprap community at the moment, over this. 3.2:User Content:License:You hereby grant, and you represent and warrant that you have the right to grant, to Company and its affiliates and partners, an irrevocable, nonexclusive, royalty-free and fully paid, worldwide license to reproduce, distribute, publicly display and perform, prepare derivative works of, incorporate into other works, and otherwise use your User Content, and to grant sublicenses of the foregoing, solely for the purposes of including your User Content in the Site and Services. You agree to irrevocably waive (and cause to be waived) any claims and assertions of moral rights or attribution with respect to your User Content.
Open source protects inventors through share and share alike with guaranteed attribution. This is straight-up IP theft, of the kind facebook and their ilk employ.
From left to right: Flesh, Iron, Stone, and Clay Golems!
I modeled these in Blender, spliced in Cura, and printed with my Printrbot Simple Metal. Painted with basic acrylic.
Files can be accessed here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:606143
There are 3D printed solutions available, two iterations that I've made and one that I just discovered.
If you can't print one yourself, I could do it for you. I'm doing a test print of the new one now, it looks like it would easily fit in an envelope. I can do it for the cost of shipping and plastic, should be $1-2 total depending on your location. I only have orange plastic at the moment, but if you really wanted another color, we could work it out.
Those are really the best.
Him: "Daddy, this broke."
Me: "Where's the piece that fell out?"
Him: "I don't know"
grabs calipers
I can fix this.
I know people always ask for stl's. This is the first set of stl's I'm going to try to sell (only because i spent hundreds of hours trying to get this to work correctly and reliably). So here's a link if you're interested: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/functional-pepperbox-4-barrel-derringer-cap-gun-toy
No pressure. Just hope you guys enjoy looking at the weird trigger mechanism in this thing.This project is tough to get working properly so i really don't recommend this project for beginners. Hopefully I'll have an assembly video coming out soon.
😊
Robo R1, white PLA, colored with a purple sharpie pen. I am SHOCKED at how well Sharpie pens color PLA. I might have to invest in a full set of them. I tested with the Fine Point, but the Sharpie Brush gave better coverage.
FYI, I discovered if you get sharpie where it's not supposed to go, you can remove it with acetone nail polish remover and it will not harm the PLA.
Model from Thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:555242
I designed the sign using Tinkercad:
These will be going in Minecraft themed party favor bags along with a few other Minecraft themed snacks and toys.
I downloaded this model from Thingiverse. Credit where it's due: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:83942
I'm in Malaysia, so hardware hacking options are limited/non-existent (locally).
I'm not too sure I want to resort to that for the 3DS yet. I like the portability (just bring around a small anti-slip), I play mostly at work. During breaks only, I promise!
If it were the Classic Controller Pro I would be more tempted, I tried that to play MH Tri before. Very usable (barring underwater).
Additional tools are certainly things I may look at for general PC gaming! Thanks for the mention though. Something like this (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:166299) but extended to be pushable located below the XYBA buttons would be interesting.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/r-chonkers-interstellar-jarheads
--
So I've had these in the completed section of my hard drive since November, but just couldn't bring myself to post them! Well, it's 2021, and I'm catching up on my backlog!
These are a kitbash (with some booling of my own) to make a decent approximation of a heavy intercessor! The arms can be a little wonky to attach, but of the four or five I've printed, I've had no problem that couldn't be fixed with more glue, and they look pretty decent! :)
All you need is a $2 adapter. I had a friend with a 3d printer make me one for free. Here's the link to the print file:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/tesla-model-3-j1772-lock-charger-adapter
> Any printer that runs Marlin
Not to be snarky, but Marlin is just printer software - it has no effect on infill. Infill is decided by the slicer, so any printer can do hexagon infill (aka honeycomb) with the right slicer.
Also, 3D honeycomb is where it's at.
4 things:
12 hours? how big is this? did you print it solid? Unless it's like a 5" cube, this shouldn't have taken more than 5 hours or so. I hope you printed it in a loose fill or you wasted a ton of plastic
the best home 3D printer right now is the PP3DP UP! for ~$1700 and the new UP! mini for about $1000 (almost the same size, actually). If you know what you're doing and have a well calibrated printer, you can print stuff that can be mistaken for prints that come from a $15,000 Stratasys Dimension uPrint.
Why does Portal get so much fan-art? It's an OK game and fairly unique, but it's no Mario or Sonic.
Why is this getting gushing everywhere, but my friend made a GOD DAMN VIDEO GAME CONTROLLER FROM SCRATCH and 3D printed it and it got downvoted off the "new" page?
Yeah it is. I don't have a 3d printer myself a friend of mine made it for me. I just sent him the cad file. I will look for it and post it here shortly.
Edit** https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cooling-cover-for-samsung-gear-vr-note-4
This is the file I used.
11 hour print at 35mm/s. First tried 50mm/s, and that failed. Lots and lots of retractions, it handled it very well. I was never able to print this on my delta due to the long bowden extuder.
Here is the model: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/the-shrine
(my design)
I had no idea this sort of thing was something people wanted! I'm happy to add it for other people to use.
https://cubehero.com/physibles/AimeNikor/2012_HondaCivic_ParkingBrakeButton
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/2012-honda-civic-parking-brake-button
There are massive catalogs of useful items that are public domain to make with 3D printers. Small latches, cups, vacuum replacement parts, phone mounts for photography, specialized wall hooks, keyholder mounts for light switches, replacement game pieces, cabinet knobs and handles, I have yet to find the end of these databases. You may want to check them out! One of my favorites is http://www.thingiverse.com/
http://jalopnik.com/you-can-download-and-3d-print-a-working-toyota-drivetra-1691382496
And directly to the designs:
http://www.thingiverse.com/ericthepoolboy/designs
As far as cost...it varies so much (3d printing) that it's hard to answer that directly. But if you had the printer/knew someone that had one then yeah, it wouldn't be too bad. If not, then that's where it can really vary.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:691403 - Rack http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:692866 - Fan Mount
Before I built the fan mount, the middle one was running about 60 degrees C. I just checked the temp of it again with the fans running, and it's at 37 degrees C.
There's enough room around the cases to let the air flow. Just let me know if you have any other questions or anything.
Yes it's a normal cable, nothing fancy. The keycaps mount on the standard cross thing. If you meat the switches: cherry mx / gateron have some clips but I also added some bigger blocker so I wont pull out the wires when I'll remove the keycaps. It's basically a triangle that allows the switch to slide in but not to go out. Check the 7th image at this link: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/bloko-9-pico
I found this: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/secret-lock-tablet-book?hcb=1
It looks like a 3D “tablet book” that someone designed for their significant other, and that link includes instructions for 3D printing. The meta tags list “DD” (D&D I’m assuming for Dungeons and Dragons). Perhaps the “NW” are the person’s initials?
Modified and prepped for printing in Blender. Spliced in Cura. Printed with my Printrbot Simple Metal with 1.75mm PLA. Painted with acrylic.
Files located here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:463063
Original Thingiverse artist: skipmontinola
Enjoy!
Got a brand new Pax 2 weeks ago. My only problem with it was that it was a little difficult to load the oven with clumsy fingers. So, I built a funnel and tamper 3d model and printed them on a 3d printer. They make loading and mixing MUCH easier. I can post pictures of the printed products later if you guys want.
My link above is for the funnel. Here is the tamper that goes with it: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:586779
When this was posted a couple weeks ago I modeled it in Sketchup and put it on thingiverse so you can download the files and 3D print it if you happen to have one. Somebody from Germany went crazy and turned it into a whole system.
To answer some questions, his paw got broken in two places while he was under the watch of a petsitter and we were out of town. The petsitter was irresponsible and of course we wouldn't have them again. We had a veterinary surgeon implant a couple of titanium pins to hold things in place while they heal, and he has to be kept in a confined room with no jumping about for two months while it heals up.
The design is a quick prototype that's parametric; you just input the length and diameter of both his bandage and his leg and it outputs a model ready to print. This initial version just uses four zipties to hold it on, perhaps if I get fancy I'll build in a hinge and some kind of snap mechanism.
I have published the design freely here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:262844 and will probably update it so that the parametric options are available directly on the website.
/u/srbistan asks "what about blood flow?" to which I responded, I think it is all right because there is about a mm or two of 'looseness' around where it touches the leg at the top, and just the slightest amount of pressure on the soft bandage. I might try a slightly larger one still, and stuff the extra space with some cotton balls.
Original thread here: http://www.reddit.com/r/somethingimade/comments/1zhyfr/my_cat_had_to_wear_a_cone_of_shame_so_he_didnt/
I'm from Barberia and I resent your egregious mischaracterization of my people.
We don't leave our markers on a table or in a drawer. We hang them next to the white board along with an eraser and cleaning fluid.
It's shared here https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ground-bait-ball-maker
I use this to make perfect little spheres of my ground bait and then catapult them next to where my hook bait is. May 2017 be a fish full year
get a circle generator and go up a number of blocks every time you move a equal angle from the circle template. calculating that angle is kinda hard.. do this n times from each of the n corners of your polygon. so 8 for an octagon. the radius of the circle is the distance from corner to opposite corner for even cornered polygons. for odd numbered, its a bit different. as for what counts as an equal angle, well its approximately a block but as you get closer to putting blocks to the 45 degree line the further it gets from being the same angle, so you will have to do a calculation as to how many blocks is equal to what angle and based on...
wait hold on, just import the model to tinkercad, size it to what you want, then (click the pickaxe in the corner to convert to blocks and) export as a minecraft schematic. or just use the blocks mode as a building guide without exporting.
I've posted the model files to the Cults3D website (link below). As for the metal rod, I cut and ground a finishing nail to the size listed in the assembly drawing attached to the model files.
This was created by a German photographer by the name of Jonas Ginter. I believe he used 6 go-pro's and attached them to a monopod through the use of a 3-D printed mount:
Meet Reverend Rick. He is just a wee lad but likes to dress up in the largest, toughest looking armor that he can find and run around, waving his stick and shouting at his brothers.
Even though he is smaller than a lot of his brothers, he is still a tough guy and none of them push him around.
INCLUDES PRESUPPORTS
OPR is now providing free test print models for all of our releases on Cults3D! Please make sure to like our models and follow our page to help us grow!
Get 15 free models here: https://cults3d.com/en/users/onepagerules/creations
The files come both supported and unsupported, and they're perfect for you to try our models before you buy them. Don't forget you get 50% discount on all models in our MMF store by supporting us on Patreon.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:650048
Edit: Links to the tinkercad projects are in the Thingiverse entry. All I did was measure up a 1U bracket to join in, nothing fancy. The original modeler of the enclosure did all the hard work. =P
I made the base design in solidworks, exported as STL. Imported the STL in MeshLab to create the voronoi pattern.
Printed on my Zortrax M200 using these settings:
Material: Z-ABS, black
Layer height: 0,29 mm
Support: 10 degrees (20 degrees would probably have given a cleaner print, but that would have been a real pain to remove). I used support lite.
Total print time: a bit under 20 hours
The height of the stand is about 20 cm and it is about 11 cm deep so the ear pads of my headphone fit.
Edit: STL available: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:641301
His listed interests were Borderlands, Breaking Bad, and a few kinds of booze. These have been vapor-treated in an attempt at food safety. I used meshes from thingiverse for the vault and methylamine insignias, and did SVG-surgery for the reddit logo.
Update: sent them a T-shirt instead. Its a shame to send something with nothing of the sender in it, but not worth endangering someone's health over.
The people with food safety concerns in this thread are probably right, but the responses to subsequent questions with downvotes and snide comments instead of constructive suggestions were very discouraging.
File can be accessed here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:539669
Modeled in Blender, printed on my Printrbot Simple Metal, and painted with acrylic.
Tentacles were made by VeerleC, and can be accessed here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:172713
Here is a model for Moya and some pictures of when I printed it. There used to be a model of a pulse pistol on thingiverse but has since disappeared. Unfortunately that model was terrible and had lots of internal surfaces which caused the print times to be way too long. I was in the process of removing some of the issues with that model but haven't had time to finish it.
As for other Farscape things to print, you will most likely model something yourself of commission someone to do it for you. Ive been scouring the web for anything in the way of farscape 3D models for a while now and been pretty unsuccessful.
A quick note on the Moya model, If your friend is using ABS as the print material, carefully monitor for curling as Moya's nose likes to lift up causing a bit of a lip
Feel free to ask if you have any other questions.
Just in case you haven't heard of Thingiverse, they have a little bit of rpg stuff. Better searching will probably yield more.
If Makerbot's claims hold, the Replicator 2 is going to be one of the better home 3d printers you can get. Other printers are going to require far more work to set up (Reprap) or are generally going to have thicker layers (i.e., worse resolution) unless you spend lots and lots of money.
If you care about open source hardware, the Replicator 2 doesn't look like it will be. That might not be official, though.
While looking at Youtube videos of 3d printers I stumbled across one making a Fennec Fox.
After we got our 3D printer I searched around and found the exact same Fennec Fox model on an open source website! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20748 Same thing with the Tree Frog.
The Hippo I made. I actually used our 3D laser scanner (also new to us) to scan a stress toy I had at my desk. Then I tweaked it a little in solidworks and scaled it down before printing out the mini version.
Edit:
I have one, it's not hard if your stick doesn't have a latch button. I also have a 3D printed eject handle on my passenger seat and a HUD.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/car-ejection-seat-handle
https://eleccelerator.com/car-heads-up-display-using-led-strip/
The driver's side seatbelt guide on my car was broken when I bought it, and reaching way behind me to grab the seatbelt was getting annoying.
But not $125 annoying. Designing this piece, I found the limits of Tinkercad, so if you have any suggestions for CAD software that doesn't take a ton of time to learn, I'd love to hear them.
Edit: if you also happen to need a seatbelt guide for a MK3 Supra, here ya go
While i don't have course material, i will provide a simulator to test things that can help test ideas without the hardwork of doing it physically. https://www.tinkercad.com/learn/#/learn/circuits
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1q3enNGMyrN-th8a-handbrake-plate-slim-fit. I had to modify the size a little bit to get it to fit on the makerbot mini I have at work. Also, make sure you print it upside down...or bad things will happen....trust me...
Here it is, a little late... my 100% original WiiMote Pistol! Its fully functional and has a trigger that presses the B button, for playing all your favorite rail shooters! It has two pieces and its completely 3d printed! I juuuuust released this to Thingiverse, enjoy!
He failed Lolth once, but not again!
I modeled him in Blender, spliced in Cura, printed with my Printrbot Simple Metal with standard PLA, and painted with acrylic. The bottom spider half was a BITCH to print, but I succeeded in the end by making the legs fatter.
File is located here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:684832
Hey, sorry for the delayed response and thanks for the kind words! As for scale, it is 17"x9".
I'm not currently selling these...but I'm listening...
But seriously, anyone with a 3D printer, feel free to download the plans here... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:682976
Hello again! From left to right we have:
Ranged goblin, hobgoblin, bugbear, and melee goblin.
I modeled these in Blender, spliced in Cura, printed with my Printrbot Simple Metal with standard PLA, and painted with basic acrylic.
Files can be located here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:672497
Definitely do this... Since I've started calibrating with the cube tower, the best way I've used to figure out the good from bad is to destroy the tower. Visually it's a bit hard to tell especially with PLA. I just squeeze two opposite corners with two fingers, slowly going the length of the tower, it'll break, but you can feel which sections are hardest to break and you get a louder snap.
Once I get the best temp from the tower (say 220) I then move to printing this squirrel off thingiverse [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11705] around the range (so 210/215/220/225/230 for the 220 example). Since it's a squirrel with more detail it's easier to look at the layers and compare the quality, I also break these.
Edit: Guess I should note, the squirrel is printed hollow with no support.
Smartphone and tablet stand holder, easy to print.
Tilt can be adjusted from 40 to 80 degrees with the screw.
Good print :)
https://cults3d.com/fr/mod%C3%A8le-3d/gadget/support-telephone-et-tablette-reglable-morinrem