I've been printing and leaving pokemon at various pokestops and gyms in my neighborhood. I want to print up a bunch more and roam a bit wider.
I need to give a shout out to Agustin Flowalistik - whose models I've been printing. You can find a nice little collection here: https://www.youmagine.com/ultimaker/collections/low-poly-pokemon
I just hope they're found and they bring a little smile to people's faces.
Edit: Since this continues to get attention on twitter as well, I've started tagging my related tweets with #pokeprint -- please feel free to do the same so we can see how big things get!
A perfect use for one of your filament spool remnants- uses only 7-8 g of filament and prints in just a few minutes.
Wire the miniature snap-action switch to your controller board and set the configuration to stop or pause the printer when the switch closes or opens.
Model by Mr_Derk, color by me.
Model can be found here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/butterbot
I'll be that guy.
This is so cool and useful that you should probably post it to additional repositories, like https://cubehero.com/ and https://www.youmagine.com/ .
With the way Makerbot, the owner of Thingiverse, has been, you probably don't want to leave it just with them.
Whosawhatsis quick print gear bearing https://www.youmagine.com/designs/quick-print-gear-bearing
Printed in PLA at 0.3mm layer height on a printrbot simple metal w/heated bed
other color configurations: http://i.imgur.com/01dB8Um.jpg
Yeah it is. I don't have a 3d printer myself a friend of mine made it for me. I just sent him the cad file. I will look for it and post it here shortly.
This is the file I used.
11 hour print at 35mm/s. First tried 50mm/s, and that failed. Lots and lots of retractions, it handled it very well. I was never able to print this on my delta due to the long bowden extuder.
Here is the model:
I had no idea this sort of thing was something people wanted! I'm happy to add it for other people to use.
I'm from Barberia and I resent your egregious mischaracterization of my people.
We don't leave our markers on a table or in a drawer. We hang them next to the white board along with an eraser and cleaning fluid.
It's shared here https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ground-bait-ball-maker
I use this to make perfect little spheres of my ground bait and then catapult them next to where my hook bait is. May 2017 be a fish full year
I have one, it's not hard if your stick doesn't have a latch button. I also have a 3D printed eject handle on my passenger seat and a HUD.
Full files and details here:
We lifted 100lbs with it easily. Printed in PLA at 25% infill.
I modelled it from the ground up using a parametric CAD tool, and cut a pocket into it so you can hide stuff inside.
For more customization, the parametric CAD model is on https://cad.onshape.com/documents/fb338fd193f71af9d28c033a/w/f7051cf0dff51fa01bda44bc/e/dbebd8e724fc034786012216 , so feel free to fork it, change the size, the clearance, and add whatever cute embossings you want
If it's not infill it's the the decay effect on the steppers. Unfortunately, it plagues most printers. It is most apparent when facing very subtle curves along the axis. This is why benchies printer better at a 45 degree, this effect is lessened visually (but technically still there.)
If you wanna test your printer, print this piece here I designed for this purpose: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/curve-test-print
Or this piece https://www.youmagine.com/designs/decay-hack-testpart (there's also a video in there that highlights the effect)
The 30mm fan wasn't up to the task printing 2x ABS at 250°C in a heated chamber at 60°C, since I don't have the money to switch to a Kraken as of now and I only need 2 nozzles anyway I designed this small cup that fits onto the original E3D aluminum block. I uploaded the file here:
And a video of it in action here:
Making a comment in case it gets buried under your downvoted comment:
According to the license, you have to share it.
Thing in question: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/pi-score-tabletop-mame-arcade-cabinet
License: Creative Commons Attribution Noncommercial Share Alike https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/deed.en_US
ShareAlike — If you remix, transform, or build upon the material, you must distribute your contributions under the same license as the original.
Looking at your post history, it seems that this is a common thing that you do.
edit: My point wasn't to make you feel bad or be rude. I see you're trying to run a business and that you have actually made some contributions to the community. It doesn't make sense to openly go against commonly accepted Copyright Law.
Three different sources.
Two of them:
The last one isn't free though.
It's by Black Omen and released through his patreon:
Someone posted something similar a while back using skate wheel bearings, and I liked the idea of the weight of the spool keeping the rollers pressed against the flanges, so I designed one using HDD bearings.
This one will handle 160- 200 mm diameter spools, and probably a little more and less, too. The rollers are tapered which keeps the spool centered. I printed the rollers as single walled vases so there would be no seams or layer start/stop zits to make noise.
There's an overhang test in MAKE's shootout model set, that increases the angle as the print gets further out. Give it a try and see what your printer can do.
Hello hello :-)
I've been working over the past year on 3D Printing the entire Monster Manual. I'm currently finishing off Letters D, X, Y and Z. All my files are located here, however, you'll have to do some 3D work to make them printing ready: https://www.shapeways.com/designer/mz4250
(be sure to log into shapeways to get the "download product" button)
To do this, you import your files into your own 3D program, separate each piece, then export each piece into their own stl files and your set. Its a pain in the ass I know, but I have to use this website per my agreement with WOTC.
Of course, other open source websites have started to post my stuff that are more printer friendly. This site has most of my stuff posted: https://www.youmagine.com/users/mz4250
I hope this helps! Good luck! And post some of your prints when you can :-D
Try uploading to Youmagine. It's exactly like Thingiverse, but based in the netherlands (so they don't have to honor DMCA requests). Wizards may still petition to take down your content, but they have to go through a much more selective process and the rules are much stricter.
So call it a "Brain Eater" and upload it there. You should be good-to-go.
License: Creative Commons Attribution Noncommercial Share Alike
EDIT: Looking at your post history, it seems that this is a common thing for you to do. Reporting to the mods....
My sister chose this as one of her first prints about 6 months ago, and she still uses it daily. It's often a conversation starter.
"That's a cool wallet."
-- "Thanks, I 3D printed it."
I did this a long time ago, two different versions, one that was purely done via infill, the other I actually paused the print half way and embedded a steel ball bearing.
The one with the bearing has a much more satisfying roll to it. I haven't actually tested the statistics but if you do roll it enough you tend to see a trend.
My files are here:
Here's some of it, i recently pulled a few files down from another site, but have yet to upload them to this one. Some is really good work, a lot of it is volunteer work for fellow redditors, and may look like shit, haha, but was exactly what someone asked for.
More pics and printable files are available on YouMagine.
Glue directly to your project case.
Holds the Teensy 2.0 securely, but allows easy removal if needed. Teensy 2.0 slides into mount from front, or snaps in from top. Clearance below the solder pads allows for the height of the joint.
An alternate version where the front of the PCB is captured can be used for installations where the mount is not flush to the case side.
Fits both genuine and knock-off PCBs.
This was my first time delidding a CPU, I 3D printed a delid tool from Chri's plans , then replaced the stock thermal paste with Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra.
You should print on regular heated glass. NO tape mess, sticks fine, and smooth bottoms.
It looks like you're both overextruding and the bed is not level.
Here's what I usually do: Print this and adjust the screws while printing.
(make sure to scale up 2X) If that sticks and prints without peeling its own corners off, your other prints should be fine.
While printing, aim for something that looks like this: http://www.redicubricks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/IMG_20150326_042949_edit-1024x722.jpg Flat on top but slightly squished and no lines inbetween.
Doesn't quite seem "low poly" to me. Seems more like exactly as many polys as necessary to portray the TARDIS.
Source: I've 3D modeled the TARDIS a time or two.
I highly recommend printing this PLA torque wrench, it works really well and will prevent things like this.
I've measured it and it tightens to about 0.8Nm, which is perfect. It doesn't seem to loosen over multiple uses, I've had it for over a year. In any case, it's a quick print.
I see why you would say that, but I printed this old version and have been using it for 2+ years now and it's never flaked plastic or been an issue. maybe if it was printed with PLA or PETG, as the layer bond is weaker for those. the herb ground with it has never burned weird or tasted weird either.
There are a bunch of 3D model repository sites that have a bunch of monsters in them. I found this adorable little guy who isn't exactly accurate, but would still make a great Thing in the Dice. Of course, the license is non-commercial only, but you could still make them for yourself!
If you want things more like the actual Thing in the Ice you can probably use this guy without the legs or this adorable little cutey, who could probably be modified to be pretty similar to the Thing.
When 3d printing you need to print a solid, most modelers are designed for 3d modeling for graphics where polygons can be free flowing or placed inside another object. This doesn't work well for printing because the slicer can't tell where to stop and start. The repair basically solidifies the geometry. A good example would be https://www.youmagine.com/designs/elsa-s-tiara-remixed
The guy who remixed it added the headband, but the band goes through the tiara. Withiut repairing it that intersection is interpreted as a hole by the slicer so it ends up printing as two pieces and is unusable. The repair combines it into one solid and makes it printable.
I'm building a Smartcore now. The frame is a simple wooden box. Not a lot of printed parts needed. Automatic bed leveling. The design is still evolving but that is the nature of the beast.
I use Blender because it's fast and once you get good at it you can model just about anything. As far a doing functional parts go it works fine as long as you use the Boolean modifier. It isn't the best tool for CAD work but I can turn out parts in it faster than I can with anything else. I did both of these projects in Blender.
Btw that cheat sheet is awesome.
Why? Delta have no real advantage over Cartesian, except that they look cool and are somewhat easier to build. The calibration is a huge PITA, the printer-to-build ratio is terrible, you are limited to a bowden setup, the resolution is not uniform so you can get all sort of weird artifacts and hard to diagnose problems.
Source - I built a giant DIY delta.
EDIT: Before someone says they are faster -an ultimaker-like gantry system, or a coreXY system can be just as fast as a delta, with a lot more weight on the printhead.
EDIT2: If I was building a printer now, I would choose this design or one of it's derivatives: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/eustathios
I've posted up my files on youmagine. Here's a link: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/lowcost-robot-chassis-beta
This is still a work in progress. I'm working on converting the design to a suitable gear motor to get more torque.
If you make it much smaller and thinner, you can use a heat gun to fine tune the fit once its printed. That's what I did for a Surface Pro 2 clip. For my Pro 3, I am satisfied with the loop and magnetic options.
Hi all- designer of the cabinet here. First the build video has been released to the general public.
Second, I have reposted the files. While the cabinet does pay tribute to the original it is a complete redesign from scratch including the control panel. They were not designed to be sold and were released under a non-commercial license. From all the research we did - Krazy Kabs - who issued the DMCA has no real claim as far as we can tell and they were doing blanket takedowns including things like replacement battery covers for the original. The legwork required to convince Thingiverse otherwise was too much.
Anyway, enjoy - please do not sell the files or cabinets as I have found all over eBay!
Tell the kid a stranger said happy birthday.
u/Dezadocys, you've got a cute kid! Call this a gift. If you for whatever reason insist on paying me, then buy me $50 worth of Reddit gold instead.
Fucking pretentious and oddly over specific about who you are, but vague about the reasons you think soylent shouldn't be banned. also, is your class all men? here's your stupid model, now go away.
After doing a bunch of internet research on the subject, it looks like mechanical relays and automotive relays aren't necessarily the best solution to dual-power setups. Whether it be inefficiency with rapidly switching controls (mechanical) or questionable quality (automotive), a lot of knowledgeable people seem to recommend alternative solutions.
One clever solution is to eliminate the relay entirely and wire your bed PSU as a parallel circuit. Roughly, the wiring goes Bed- terminal on board > HBP- > HBP+ > HBP PSU+ > HBP PSU- > Main PSU-. This setup is apparently used by Triffid and Nophead, and is fine as long as the board MosFETs can handle the voltage of the HBP PSU, both PSUs share an AC ground (which just means plugged into the same power bar/outlet) and nothing else is connected to the HBP PSU.
Another alternative method is to use a power MosFET, they're plenty strong to handle the voltages/currents used, and are technically better suited for PWM power cycling. A really awesome guide for this can be found here
There are a few bespoke food printers, and they are mostly confectionery printers, eg: http://the-sugar-lab.com/ChefJet. There are lots of mods for standard FDM printers that add syringe extrusion, eg.: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-syringe-extruder-ii--2
Looks like my lightsaber design!
not sure about the other ones.
Nice prints either way
The Ultimaker (1) was selected by Make magazine as the best open source printer in their 2012 shootout. The laser cut plans are here, the BOM and parts are here and the assembly instructions are here.
Printed on an Anycubic Photon.
The models are from three different sources.
Two of them:
When I got my heat block for my UM2, it came with a cute 3D printed "torque wrench" to install the nozzle, tight enough to prevent leaks but not enough to break any threads.
Pretty sure it's this thing https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench
Anyways you might want one if you swap nozzles often. I swap like every day now.
Use whatever material you want, they all need to be sealed with a food safe resin prior to use anyway. I recommend Alumilite "Amazing Clear Casting Resin", which is FDA approved when properly mixed and allowed to fully cure.
It isn't hard to make one yourself. I did it with one screw, one microswitch, and a printed part.
Here's the original.
I bought one of those last year for $260, new in box, shipped.
They were terrible machines at $2500, but a good base for $250, if you're willing to throw a little more money at them. I wrote up a bunch of the mods that were done here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/metal-upgrades-for-3ds-cubex-3d-printers
and there was a very active thread at rep-rap forums here: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,707941,page=1
The first thing you'll need to do is replace the controller board so you don't have to use chipped filament cartridges. You may want to just replace the extruders and hot-ends immediately- they weren't very good.
Print speed with two direct extruders on the carriage is limited to about 40 mm/sec if you care about print quality. If you mod it for bowden extruders you should be able to speed it up a bit, but bouncing of the cantilevered bed will be the ultimate limiting factor.
A feeler gauge is just the metallic equivalent of a piece of paper. Some people like to kid themselves into thinking that it is a superior tool for leveling a bed, because they think they know how far the bed is from the nozzle when they use a feeler gauge, but the truth is that the bed isn't perfectly flat and knowing the distance from the bed surface to the nozzle at one (or 3 or 4) point isn't the same as knowing the distance everywhere. Also, accuracy isn't required. What is required is that the first layer sticks to the bed, which is the whole point of leveling. The print will stick over a relatively wide range of distances between the bed and nozzle.
The thing that's tricky about adjusting the first layer thickness is the method by which printers are zeroed. That is usually a screw with 0.7mm thread pitch (or 32 TPI in less civilized regions of the world). That means one turn of the screw moves the bed/nozzle by 700-800 um. When you need to make <50 um adjustments it is very easy to turn the zero setting screw too much and overshoot.
I designed a zero switch mechanism for my latest printer that reduces the effect of the screw by about 8:1, so a 50 um adjustment is a half turn of the screw. It is very easy to make minor Z=0 adjustments without overshooting.
Printed a 150% Low Poly Lapras on my self sourced HyperCube printer, which I only assembled a few days ago. So definitely not a 100% dialed in yet but I'm making great progress! Really happy with how it came out, considering how few things I changed and how much of a newb I still am xD
Printed it rather slow for now, at around 40mm/s to ensure a decent print. Printed my cubes and benchies with 60 but that had its own set of problems, especially with thin features. Took around 4h40m to print.
So definitely still far from done with it yet (who will ever be?) but so far I am really happy with the printer! Took me almost a year to get into 3D printing (but that's another story), so I giggled like a child when it finally worked xD
Now I just need some sleep, should've printed a smaller one perhaps.
Printed with standard PLA, setting to high quality, .04 nozzle with thin supports.
The model is sliced in half to have better details and less support-leftovers.
It's is based on the one mentioned before but it's actually this one
Except I printed two arms more and stuck them on there aswell.
I wanted to upgrade my cheap drill press vice with something better. I looked on thingiverse and found the "screwless vice" which I really liked mechanism so I made my own version. 80mm jaws (plenty for what I need) and it won't rise up when clamping parts down as the design pulls the jaw down into the vice.
Theres some pretty cool overwatch stuff there
You could also try a CoreXY build. Given their frame, and bed that moves only on the Z axis, they have a lot of the space saving advantages of a delta. The Smartcore is a well regarded machine to self-source. You can also use YouMagine's model editor to size the machine to whatever size you want.
I did not. It actually looks like these pieces were commissioned by Ultimaker as a tech demo for their 3D printers. Based on some informal testing, though, it seems like these designs work on a variety of different printers with equally good results.
Another bit of good news is that the designer has made the files freely available here, so anyone with access to a printer can make their own.
To make this prop more "functional," I plan on modifying some of these part files to make it easier to add LEDs and working buttons in the future. When I do, I'll be sure to post them online!
The extruder wires cable chain has been the best accessory I have made for my simple http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:561148
And I do like the feet in ninjaflex
I can't speak to your printer specifically but on a UM with 3 point bed here are my thoughts:
Interactive leveling is best, as you describe. This is the pattern I use when serious calibration is needed. (not very often) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bed-level-pattern (you may need to scale up to fit your print bed, and Z up to be exactly 1 layer thick) Too close, and your lines will smoosh into each other, and too far will make the X corners peel off.
If light calibration is needed just print a box and watch the pattern. http://www.redicubricks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/IMG_20150326_042949_edit-1024x722.jpg
Consider using glass? it's flat so you don't have to worry about the warping, and you get nice flat smooth bottoms.
I personally find 3 point manual adjustment faster and more reliable than auto-bed leveling. But to each their own. (or maybe I haven't tried a good one yet)
yeah indeed check out here, https://www.youmagine.com/search/designs?utf8=%E2%9C%93&search=pokemon and you can print directly on the mode with the button 3D print at 3DHubs. It connects to a local 3D printer owner.
You can still pull designs from thingyverse. It is a good website. But I would not suggest loading anything to it. Had to go find it but here it is. Parts are not as easy to find on it... but Ultimaker also does not have the same money to put into the site.
There's no issue with designing or printing high poly Pokemon. The low poly versions are I guess what you would call an artistic vision. They seem to resonate with people and they are really easy to print. Check here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-poly-pikachu
You can print this one.
I imagine you'd be able to make different parts and attach them together if you're proficient in modelling. But what you're looking for is basically just modelling tutorials... To keep them modular just use the same connectors throughout all your parts.
I dont know if you meant it like this, but here are the designs anyway, as I also posted them to few others. I wonder what else we could print for diving.
Files are in .stl and in .ipt for editing. If you plan to print the reel, it needs some figuring out from your part also.
Okay here are the designs finally. Sorry it took so long..
Enjoy and let me see if you end up printing some!
the Maple Maker Mini is one of the most printable printers ever, though I haven't seen much on it in action, I'm currently working on making one of my own.
The screw could have popped out of it's thread if it's unscrewed too much. In which case it probably will make leveling difficult. Does the plate visibly go up and down when you turn the screw as it's free spinning?
Anyway it depends on your model of printer. but I usually find it much easier to start a print and then turn the screws as it prints. Then when satisfied, stopping the print, scraping the stuff off and starting new.
Feel free to use my test pattern.
This will be frustratingly difficult if your plate is not close to level. but if you can print this pattern, you should be good for most things you print across your bed. (don't forget to scale it up 2x)
I've already designed a complete system actually, there are just things that you physically can't manufacture with traditional glass work.
It's not about the bong, its about the expression.
Do you have a budget?
I would recommend this model, it is fast and robust.
And specifically, this derivative:
That is a huge frame for a 20x20cm build area. Have you considered a gantry system? It's much more space efficient. Maybe take some inspiration from this : https://www.youmagine.com/designs/eustathios
I think the best design currently is the gantry system (Ultimaker were the first to use this). I'm currently building this printer https://www.youmagine.com/designs/eustathios
It can reach incredible speed and and precision.
>no other sites have the same idea and popularity.
From their site:
>Needless to say, everything you upload will remain your intellectual property which we encourage you to share.
YouMagine's Ts&Cs do indicate you grant a license to them, however it isn't as extensive as Thingiverse's to the point where it says they don't need to give any attribution to you.
Death Metal Rocktopus
Designed in MeshMixer (sadly not OS)
Sliced with Cura
Printed on Ultimaker Orig.
The STL is available here
Pictures and the design are licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0
I actually got the un-tagpro'd files from here:
I just opened them up and edited the top and bottom pieces. You'll see that the top has like 4 gears, but they were pretty much useless. They kept falling out, they arent even seen, and the center gear is all that really matters. So I just added the center gear to the underside of the lid's file.
But if you'd like my design, I can share the files.
My suggestion is this:
I think this is better than just waiting for enough money, you will learn a lot, and you'll end up with a great printer.
If you want to print one of these little ones, I just modeled one! Get it here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/flying-gyroscope
or here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:453877
These should work really well with some vapor smoothing
(blue) Wave Vase: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wave-01-02-03-04
(silver) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:37327 (but stretched vertically)
(yellow) looking for link - might be something customized?
This is the design I used (not mine):
Pretty sure it will fit most cameras, but as far as shooting it you might run into different problems. I had to use a wooden skewer to wind the wheel that counts frames after loading the film in order not to wind up the length of the paper attached to 120 film, and remove the tray and redo the procedure when the counter reached 15 frames, as the camera won´t let me do more frames than that.
I could print some for you guys, but shipping would be expensive, $45 is the cheapest I could find online for shipping to the US (I live in Sweden). I would recommend going over to /r/3dprintmything and ask for someone located closer who could print it. If somebody want me to print an adapter I guess I could do it for something like €10+shipping, about half the price on the other site linked.
Edit: Found this, that seller is the designer, so I would buy it from him.
SVC200. Here's a review: http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2013/11/10/svc200-is-the-best-100-action-camera-ive-found-so-far.html
Helmet mounting is pretty decent (much better than with the GoPro, about the same as the Sony cams), I designed a mounting plate to make it better: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/simple-mounting-plate-for-svc200-action-cam
It's a good general purpose camera. It's definitely just average HD quality - better than many cams I've tried. Usability is better than several name brand cams I've owned - better than the GoPro (because of the actual menu and color screen, allowing review of footage and framing of shots) and better than the Contour Roam (which was hopeless - NO control over anything without hooking it to a PC).
It's no competitor for a GoPro Black, but I don't need that. I never look at 99.9% of anything ever shot on it, as I turn it on during my bike commute every day, and maybe once a month I'll need to look at 30 seconds worth of video. The rest just gets auto-overwritten.
I've been using this cam for months now, and the ONLY complaint I have is that when you hook it up to USB to charge or sync, it reverts to sport mode and you have to remember to switch it back. I just bought 2 spare batteries and a charger for < $10 on eBay so I never hook it to USB anymore, so not a problem.
I don’t have a 3D printer, but I saw a great gargant the other day here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/great-gargant-ork-w40k
I’m not familiar with any Eldar designs, but “space elf titan” would likely yield some results.
I still cross my fingers for a plastic GW made Gargant kit one day. Well, one that isn’t a large burly man in a fantasy setting…
The support chamfer under the mounting arms interfered with the fit. This chamfer has been removed from the model. The interference resulted in a ~1mm gap between the FEP and the LCD protective glass. The marks of the FEP are from the build platform corners, as they over-tensioned the film to reach Z0.0 Despite that, the print was successful (old file from USB stick).
It's caramelization of the PLA. Completely normal to occur, but not typically on the OUTSIDE of the tube... that speaks to an issue with the "seal" between the bottom of the tube, the top of the nozzle, or between the nozzle and heat-break tube.
This is one of those really good ideas that I'm wondering why I didn't think of sooner. Gonna try ~~this one~~ the 30 degree part from this one when the PID tune is done.
That's exactly it. I use this filter: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dust-filter
And this oil, which is the same thing as sewing machine oil, but that one should also work. Best luck :)
Call for mask frame prints from San Diego, California!
UCSD medical center has the COVID tent up and busy. This post is specifically for the UCSD medical center in San Diego, CA
This is our time, 3D print community, a humanitarian disaster where the problem is lack of little printable widgets!
Please post a reply with your printer name, experience level, and what material you would volunteer to print with. I will DM you with direct contact information for the nurse coordinator and other info. Please start your responses with the letter "T" so I know you actually read all this text, and I can ignore the responses that don't start with "T" to save some time! :)
Things are a little chaotic here and if there are a lot of responses I will be doing them in batches based on the reply information.
EDIT1: I can validate my identity and that of the Nurse contact if the mods would like.
Cheers for this!
I've ordered a printer should be here Friday.
Direct link to 3d print page for handiness:
Direct link to European hole punch version:
> Very cool! You mentioned that you were redoing the Y axis anyways... but it looks like the current design is just rolling on the table it’s sitting on, correct?
No. Those rollers are just to stabilize the whole machine. The bed has 8mm rods down each side that go through four linear bearings in the main blocks (that also house the Z motors). Inspired by my old Printrbot LC's gantry.
I kept the stock setup and added a simple z axis bracket...
Then added an x gantry support...
That's it no couplers no nema 17 upgrade. Printer prints stable as a rock after those two even with a somewhat warped z axis rod which most mini come with.
the hardest part was finding a vise! i used paper for the internal padding of the delid tool
make sure you put the delid tool on correctly. there should be a gap on the top cap for the caps on the back of the cpu core pcb!
Right to left:
Multi-purpose holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1787789
Small NMR tube rack (really love this and it prints fast): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:981373
Round NMR tube holder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nmr-tube-rack
OP's model looks like it may be a little nicer, or maybe then just spend more time post-print than I do. I've designed this as part of a future coffee table (resin encapsulation) project I've got planned.
Yes there is but it is a little unorthodox. It does work though. Basically you're adding/moving thin circles under your supports. Definitely saved me a few prints from toppling over!
I use my own designs generally, and have zero issue with it this far. I don't use the mini very often though, it's more of an emergency backup haha.
Seemed like a good cause :-) I included the "s8 Cutout" model for anyone else who wants the same cutout in any other model that it will fit within. I measured my phone (s8), with it's case on, and used those measurements (plus a bit extra clearance).
I used the program Rhino to create the phone model, which is a rectangle with rounded edges (fillet) and measured the Charger cable, then added lots of extra clearance, and made a loop to help retain the cord when not in use.
I used Zbrush to import the original Throne model, and re-meshed the model in order to subtract my "s8 cutout" model, after scaling the throne to be slightly larger, and better accommodate the large phone. It was a quick-and-dirty operation, and there's some tiny bits that wont look perfect, but all in all, it should give you more time to get it printed.
Learning Fusion 360 would be the best way to really introduce yourself to modelling solids for applications like this. it's free for hobby use, and there's a ton of great tutorials, and community support for it.
I completely disagree. Even cheap filament comes from the manufacturer free of knots and tangles. Tangling is about 99.999% a handling problem.
Never let the free end of the filament loose. Keep it under control at all times. Don't use spool holders that lay the spool sideways so the axis is vertical. Filament tries to spring off the spool and over the flanges in full spools of PLA. You can use a spool holder with multiple rollers contacting the flanges to prevent that.
yeah, that's one way. I meant more like an edge lip on one surface and a matching recess on the mating surface.
People have done different kinds of clips too, so you don't have to worry about support material. See the the connections "Ultimaker Airplane":https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-airplane-model and the "Saturn V": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45316
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/overwatch-tracer Here you go boss! it was actually a ton of work, so... I hope it works, but if not, its a better starting point. I dont use Thingiverse, but if you want to repost it as a remix, thats fine, its still CC 3.0 - Attribution, so ensure you give credit to the original designer, and me as well now.
I'm looking to put one of these guys:
Universal Paste Extruder
Rich Rap's Universal Paste Extruder
On to a 3D print head. Price range $300-600. Does anyone have any ideas on the best printer to get that would be able to easily switch out heads like this? Or any experience with heads? They mention it can fit Quick-Fit X carriages and as well as Prusa carriages but I don't know how to tell which printers have which carriages as sometimes they don't say. Might make a separate post for this to see if anyone has done paste extruding.
It looks similar to something I did for storing spare batteries, flash, and SD cards for my camera. In my design the SD card slots alternate so that it's easy to select and pull one out by grabbing its corners. In your design, they look so close together that it may be hard to grab any specific one and get it out without removing 3 or 4 of them.
Got an old pair of skates? Live near a thrift store where you can buy an old pair of skates?
Some things can be printed and some can't. Quality bearings are one of those things that can't.
OTOH, for a filament spool holders you really don't need a bearing at all- just a pipe through the center hole. If you want to get fancy, there's this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/filament-spool-holder-for-3d-printer