I've been using these, they're Epic so 6 mm so you just increase the model size by 135% and they're at scale.
Might seem like excessive for base scenery, but I'm not convinced they're not going to re-release Epic Armageddon but at 8 mm
I don’t have a 3D printer, but I saw a great gargant the other day here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/great-gargant-ork-w40k
I’m not familiar with any Eldar designs, but “space elf titan” would likely yield some results.
I still cross my fingers for a plastic GW made Gargant kit one day. Well, one that isn’t a large burly man in a fantasy setting…
I ordered them from Amazon
Model Train Railroad Scenery Trees 1:200 Pack of 20pcs Dark Green Light Green https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0122MCKF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AT57XVH35GXPVZ44QN6W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1.
The bases are Vallejo brown earth basing paste, painted with Gorthor brown contrast, dry brushed with ushabti bone and Agrax on top. The broken trees are chopped down toothpicks
I ordered them from Amazon
Model Train Railroad Scenery Trees 1:200 Pack of 20pcs Dark Green Light Green https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0122MCKF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AT57XVH35GXPVZ44QN6W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So would that golden heavy gel be something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Golden-Artist-Colors-Heavy-Gloss/dp/B000EHCTQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=52827366701&dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw2ZaGBhBoEiwA8pfP_r2ymNfPZ4VcWP0FEM3AT3Q86PtW71Ai7w5_XML-G2-oRBkpr_bv_hoCVHoQAvD_BwE&hvadid=274725792122&...
This is good advice, but I would recommend getting a good brush soap, like The Master's and just using that to clean brushes out after an oil session instead of buying a separate set- not only does it erase oil from bristles like a Bellicosa on a pack of Knights, it also gets acrylic gunk out too, and generally restores the performance of a brush.
Thanks! Tamiya Hobby Masking tape is a god send!
Tamiya 300087031 Masking Tape with Dispenser 10 mm x 18 m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WS000/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_2U78Fb767V3X1
That’s what I’ve used on my Reaver and Warhounds
Yup, super easy, and this is all you need to make a great mold: Hinodewashi Oyumaru monochromatic OO-250C clear 12 pieces (Pack of 6 x 2 pcs set) (japan import) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GXUZSZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KGzICbK7TENCA
One way to get big los blockers is kit bashing aquarium castles. I got this one and it blocks a lot of los and the scale is pretty good https://www.amazon.ca/Wizards-Aquarium-Decoration-Painted-Realistic/dp/B00061FCII/ref=asc\_df\_B00061FCII/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293019546200&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2598603485229660833&hvpone=&hvptwo=...
I'm a big fan of the Windsor & Newton Series 7's for detail work - if you don't get any others, I'd recommend a zero and a triple-zero and see what you think. I've tried Artis Opus brushes as well and didn't have as good results - although I love the Artis Opus drybrush set (series D?).
Also, the most important thing for keeping the expensive sable brushes in good working condition (and keeping the points sharp!) is to clean them regularly! It makes a huge difference in the working lifetime & quality of results you get.
Agreed, but you can make your own!
Find a friend with a resin 3d printer; https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/nemesis-warbringer-belicosa-volcano-cannon
I magnetized my bases and do one of two things:
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Also, the standalone rules box is actually really good for storing/transporting all your cards and terminals for a maniple. It will hold two books inside as well, which helps keep all your other stuff in place. It also slides comfortably in a Battlefoam 720.
Mayday Games Mini Card Sleeve 45 MM X 68 MM pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BH3J58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kya9CbE1MC0EA
I will say I had to use 2 part gorilla glue epoxy to adhere to the command terminal. Also made a template to cut a half circle in the top of each sleeve for easy removal of cards. (Cut out a piece of chipboard or thick material that can fit snug in the sleeve and draw a half circle on it. Trace the circle out of each sleeve with an xacto so you only remove the front part.)
Late to the party, but I highly recommend airbrushing your panels while they are still on the sprue. If you are doing multi colored panels (striping, etc), you can mask off all your parts and do it in one go. This is a huge time saver.
Bonus tip; after you spray your panels, don't clip them just yet! You can basecoat your trim superfast with a colored sharpie marker. I use this set: here. You won't be able to hit some of the areas where the panels meet the frame of the sprue; but you can clean those up as you clip them off the frame.
I wrote a long reply on my plasma reaver post about general stuff, but for these specifically:
- Volcano carapace is pretty easy. It's just the laser blaster carapace with 2 of these rings
https://www.amazon.com/Kotobukiya-P145R-modeling-support-plastic/dp/B00NHLTJ9C
the barrel is from a SM centurion las cannon (i think) and the muzzle is the warlord volcano muzzle
The grave weapon parts are mechanicus destroyer grav barrles, Dunecrawler neutron laser barrel base, volcano main body and the back are 2 SM centurion las cannon bits stuck together with extra armor on top made from a tau stealth suit rotary cannon housing.
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