What are /r/MPSelectMiniOwners' favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

you ought to be able to use a reverse screw drill removal thing on that.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Damaged-Remover-Extractor-Hardness-62-63hrc/dp/B01E9ZC2K2

I've used most of these methods to remove stripped screws and they all work pretty well.

You can also buy a small drill bit for removing stripped screws that does wonders. This guy right here: https://www.amazon.com/EssentialTools-Extractor-Stripped-Hardness-63-65hrc/dp/B07GZ17QD9

Assuming we're talking about the screw rods-- clean them with isopropyl pads and lubricate.

For metal on metal use a dry teflon lubricant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCVXUR6/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

I'd advise you to grab a book like Functional Design for 3D Printing or similar. It'll have good design guidelines and information about things you might not at first realize about fitment of parts that are 3D printed.

On my MP Maker Ultimate, I used a dampener on the steppers and it reduced the amount of noise dramatically. I haven't tried them on my MPSM yet because I haven't felt like tearing it apart to find out if they will fit or work. They would only need to go on the X and Y steppers. On the MS, it eliminated that high-pitched whine that caused an equivalent high pitched whine from the spousal unit in the house. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DTGWRC4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

I just recently bought this on Amazon. It works and fits amazing! My prints are so much cleaner now. Then i just use regular glue stick. [Comment added via mobile]

Ok, what.you are seeing is the z banding from a rigid coupler on the z axis and some not-so-rigid z rails.

It can be eliminated by buying a flexible coupler and printing the z spacers from thingiverse.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YKUFCbZRT5J1G

This is the right size and they are cheap.

You can't use an HC card, has to be standard capacity, so <4GB (some 4GB will still be HC, or at least labeled as such). I had the same thing happen (card got corrupted and shows as 8MB RAW format in Windows, will not format and the Mini doesn't see it at all). I just made two purchases on Amazon to save some headache down the road:

a 512MB microSD card to get up and running quickly, but for long-term, I got one of these to eliminate having to pop the card in and out. I'll just leave that card adapter in the slot and use the much more convenient SD card (with some old <2GB SD cards I have or the 512MB card in a sleeve).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J3BB000/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1these are 5.99 for five.

> When does the V2 come out

first quarter of 2017

They were quietly announced at CES2017. With the traction mono price is getting I am surprised they are not heavily marketing their printers.

http://hackaday.com/2017/01/07/ces2017-monoprice-unveils-expanded-line-of-3d-printers/

Sure, no problem. I'll give you a bit more info as it may be relevant :)

1. I use a 3 mm borosilicate glass bed by Go 3D. I started with dollarstore glass which worked well enough but it wasn't thick enough to compensate for my curved bed.
2. I washed it in hot water and soap. I had to use a razor blade to scrape off some tough weird spots that were likely from the manufacturing process. I got it squeaky clean and let it air-dry.
3. Meanwhile, I removed the buildtak and adhesive from the printer. It didn't take long. The trick was heating the bed up to 100 and carefully using a razor blade scraper. I have more info on this; ask if you're interested.
4. I installed the glass bed, making sure I didn't touch the surface more than necessary.
5. I cleaned it again with 70% isopropyl and a glasses cleaning cloth (I picked up a bulk pack of them from Amazon). The isopropyl is in a spritz bottle that I bought at a local drugstore. I top it up using a bigger refill bottle.
6. And that's basically it. I repeat #5 every time I print. Spritz, scrub a bit with the cloth over where the previous print was, and done. It takes maybe 10 seconds. I've been printing on it for about 2 months now and haven't taken it off to re-clean with soap and water. Some people say to use acetone, but I've had luck with just 70% iso.

That said, the biggest contributing factor to getting my prints to stick was the leveling. Once I nailed the leveling, I haven't had a failed print due to poor adhesion. Failures due to other things, sure. But not because of the glass :)

It's a really common part, here's a veriety pack on Amazon for $10.

SIQUK 2 Pieces PTFE Teflon Tube (2 Meters) + 4 Pieces PC4-M6 Quick Fitting + 4 Pieces PC4-M10 Straight Pneumatic Fitting Push to Connect for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC594D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gJ79CbX9KVHTN

I'd get something tempered. I bought mine cut for the MPSM bed from Amazon for under $20 and haven't had an issue at all. Even accidently launched it out of my hands while cleaning it last night without a scratch. Near six months of constant printing and you couldn't tell that it wasn't new.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XJ5ZP1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Gotcha, one guy in the facebook group for these printers (who is in contact with Malyan) placed a video on how he removes the pressure-fit bearings from the aluminium housing.

Here's a google drive folder with the pictures and a video: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOa-yLNRZGRWJqCaJreeVLNZfC_rAN-HMek3T96js8x-I1EBgd-z2YyJrEFzQDC_w?key=UHNRXzNDTEpRNld0b0ZDSlI1ZUw0b2RkaW1kZ09n

You may want to wait for their 2017 models. The original select mini is absolutely worth the price, but an updated model seems very interesting.

http://hackaday.com/2017/01/07/ces2017-monoprice-unveils-expanded-line-of-3d-printers/

In that case, you'll be thrilled, I think. Of course most of us get models from a site like Thingiverse, but in case you're interested in creating your own custom parts you may find a site like Tinkercad a good place to start. It provides a simple free method to create your own models without a lot of investment to learn complicated software.

That is heater block cotton held on by kapton tape.

If you want to replace it with the official part, they do actually sell a pre-cut piece.

But that's kinda pointless. Either get one of those silicone socks, or cut a generic piece of insulator to fit.

Or don't worry about it. The insulation helps the printer get up to temperature faster, but unless you're printing something really hot, in my experience it will print fine without it. Just trim back any dangly bits that might interfere with the print.

This is the filament is used. It’s very well wound so it doesn’t tangle and it comes with a free nozzle. I like this over other filaments because it has more of a matte finish when you print a piece. Yousu Tangle Free 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084WGDG6Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

1.) you might want a silicon sock to replace the old insulation (yellow stuff) these should work

2.) To remove this filament, heat up your hotend to 210-2015 or hotter and the old filament should become pliable, you can remove these with a pair of tweezers. If its oozeing a lot of filament you might check the tightness on your nozzle. When my ender 3 came the nozzle was a bit loose, and filament oozed out the sides.

3.) Is there visible fumes, like the plastic is burning? If so, you might be printing way to hot. If not and you just mean from the normal molten pla, pla is generally considered safe. If youre only printing with one printer, i doubt the level of VOCs would be noticeable. If your or your parents are very concerned about it, perhaps consider moving the printer to a closet, or maybe make a ikea enclosure and additonaly build a vent system running through a makeshift carbon filter. The carbon filter thing is probably way overkill, unless you plan on printing ABS or similar.

4.) Is it layer shifting at a specific layer, or is failing and detaching from the bed? Layer shifting at a specific layer, check the tension on the drive belts. If its detaching, try gluesticks, painters tape, or hairspray.

I used 6" wide painters tape on mine for awhile prior to switch to an fsb. And it worked pretty well.

First time this happened to my I used a small blowtorch to melt out the jam. Second time it happened I forgot to remove the plastic piece of the bowden locking mechanism so I had to order a replacement (amazon link).

FWIW I believe it jams this way if you leave it on and hot for extended periods of time without running it. I haven't had this problem since I stopped preheating well before I was ready to start printing.

I have a glass bed, too. What I do is, once the print's finished and cooled down to room temp, I throw it in the freezer for about 15 minutes. The print just pops off. In fact, most times it just falls off.

[edit] It also helps that I bought this, the edges are already fairly rounded, plus since it's the same material as Pyrex®, less chance of breakage. You can look his store name up on Google, he usually has them available there when he's out on Amazon.

Yeah the clip is probably shot on the fitting so it no longer holds. The ones one amazon that come with fittings are a few dollars more and you will have some spares that way. It is a PC4-M6, might be a good time to get one that comes with a kit an a capricorn tube to make the whole system a little better. This one is the same price and has 2 fittings along with the tube for 7 bucks although does not have the capricorn tube.

&#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/KOTVTM-Meters-Filament-Fittings-Printer/dp/B01MU1R48E/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=bowden+tube&amp;qid=1562687231&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-9

I shoved a Pi in mine and it's great.

The printer's power supply is 12v so you can scavenge an old car USB adapter and leech off that. Then for style points throw a 5v relay in upstream of the Pi to power it on and off remotely. The full size Pi 3 and relay, both in 3d printed cases, aren't the least bit cramped in there. I put it together with wire nuts so there wasn't even any soldering involved.

It will without question fail again. Swap out for something like this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDHX2Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OtWfFbYS5AYGJ

Google bed rewire mod, it will be much more reliable to run the wires externally this time.

I was just about to post this..

Here's a progress shot of mine

https://vgy.me/pXNbIT.jpeg

I have the meanwell psu in the open space, I might be grabbing another one for two more fans for my custom enclosure I'm building

Edit: as for organizing things inside.. What do you mean? I basically ziptied everything and made sure there was enough slack if I wanted to open it again

I'd try using Repetier Host first. It's free and easy to setup to control the MPSM. I use it to pass GCode commands to them during tuning and repairs, but I still use Cura for slicing. You can download Repetier Host [HERE]

I have a tiny MicroSD>USB adapter that I include when sending out repaired/renewed MPSMs... happy to send you one (free for you) if you're in the US. Just message me your name and mailing info!

The app that I use for setting the IP address is by Malyan and works great. You can grab it from my shared folder [HERE]

-David

Try repetier host for control. You'll use Cuts for producing gcode and repetier for sending the print. https://www.repetier.com/

Or you can get a Raspberry Pi and Octopi. Much more convenient, but might be a bit more technical in getting set up.

The webpage hasn't really been implemented. You need another piece of software like https://www.repetier.com/ to use it.

I didn't have any luck getting it setup to work reliably. I just use the SD Card.

I kept the stock setup and added a simple z axis bracket...
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mp-select-z-axis-bracket
Then added an x gantry support...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1864625

That's it no couplers no nema 17 upgrade. Printer prints stable as a rock after those two even with a somewhat warped z axis rod which most mini come with.

My prints have been looking exactly the same lately. I discovered that the bed is warped. This makes leveling the bed nearly impossible. It dips down in the center. Also, it seems to have started around the time I updated to the latest version of Cura. I have a glass bed plate that I'm going to try. I haven't tried downgrading Cura yet.

Here's the glass I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BYJQH79/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_P4T78VAXFEJ3AGQEKA5H?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Yeah. I use this:

5v Regulator, DROK 5pcs Mini Voltage Reducer DC 4.5-24V 12V 24V Step Down to 5V Buck Converter Board 3A Volt Step-Down Transformer Power Supply Module https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0758ZTS61/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K8SBVP2S84ZNQV60BN2K

But you might be able to do with a simple resistor.

Those connectors just slide over the ones on the back of the switch. Just use a pair of pliers gripped on either side and pull them apart. They come apart like the ones pictured here:

https://www.amazon.ca/Papaparts-Insulated-Disconnect-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B07NRWDSQT

I wound up replacing the whole extruder mechanism with a metal one from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PGLZ4 seems to be the one. Mind you, I still have to replace Bowden tube connectors on a regular basis.

I had the same problem recently. Picked these up:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Like other commenters I’d recommend tearing it off carefully with pliers, and buying a silicone sock. However neither of the other two recommendations so far would actually fit the mini’s heater block, while something like this (FYSETC 3D Printer Parts MP Select Mini V2 Silicone Sock BP6 Heater Block Silicone Cover Hotend Protect for Anycub V5 Hotend/Monoprice MP Select Mini V2/ MP Mini Delta/Flsn QQ-S pro, 3Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6L36G8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2R4Y7152ZPADFHGNYNAM?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1) is made specifically for it. Happy printing!

Go to amazon and get this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PV9LCLY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ADOEF179U2TRC&amp;psc=1

the PC4-M6 replaces the cheap connector on the extruder and the PC4-M10 replaces the one on the Hotend. you get 5 of each and 5 lengths of 4mm PTFE tubing. For less than 13 dollars us you'll be good for a long time.

All you need is the thermistor, unless you just feel like replacing the whole thing. https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Printer-Select-Thermistor-Monoprice/dp/B07TYH854N

Not sure about the hot end you linked, but check the reviews. Most will recommend upgrading to all metal hot end, but that one might but you time until you're ready for the bigger upgrade.

I've been using this one for a few months now. It has a better amperage rating and a grounded plug, unlike the supply that came with my printer.

https://www.amazon.com/SHNITPWR-100V-240V-Converter-Transformer-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B07PWZQ33N

Sorry, I had my measurement off, it's a 4mm connector. These are the ones I bought, and they fit perfectly:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01NANKRTD/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_t7gQFbTJ8W31G?\_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I found this tutorial on hackaday the other week. Uses a 12.5A Meanwell LRS-150-12 supply. Haven't installed it yet but it moves the supply inside of the printer chassis instead of having a brick supply. You can find it for $20 on amazon. It also adds a different switch with a fuse which is nice.

Yeah I don't know what you are seeing for 20 or 30. I got this on Amazon for like 6 bucks and it feels really sturdy.

Found these couplers on Amazon. Two for $4. Need to test but sofar it looks good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018VE5YAW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Edit: This is a better solution than the 3dprint couplers available on thingsverse that I've tried. The reason is that the printed couplers clamp on the stepper motor shaft transferring the entire load of the X axis assembly to the bottom stepper motor bearing. This new coupler, like the Malyan original, retains the two nylon washers and transfers the load to the top bearing surface which is fixed to the motor case and printer chassis.

I've had great luck with AIO Robotics PLA sold on Amazon for around $13 per 0.5 kg. The other PLA brands I've purchased work, but the prints aren't as smooth. I believe it's because the tolerance is better on the AIO Robotics PLA (+/- 0.02 mm). The 3D MARS PLA I bought that doesn't print as smoothly has a wider tolerance of +/- 0.05 mm.

Also, I bought a E3D Full clone hotend on Amazon that is way better than the stock hotend (that often clogged on me).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GD8LCFO

And here's the mount you'll need to print for it (there are others that are probably better, but this works for me):

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1728736

Any M6 tip will work. The link below are the most recent ones I purchased. So cheap it's easier to replace than clean usually.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J3BB000/

Edit: search Amazon for "M6 Extruder Nozzle" and most anything that comes up will work. The longer ones may require further bed adjustments or z spacers. (M6 is the thread size. Metric, 6mm)

Pretty sure it is an ac125v 1amp micro switch which you can pick up on Amazon or EBay in multiples for a few bucks.

EDIT: These look like they might fit the part. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJBEYC0

I got mine on Amazon, you need to dig through the results a bit, and pay a bit more than you'd expect given that the storage is smaller than the SDHC. The one that I got that has been working fine for a couple of months now is (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N3LL02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)

You can get OEM replacements for $5 a pair plus shipping(US only?). I have a different style from amazon that I haven't tried yet but I believe are the same length.

I'm really new to this so I just got the cheapest stuff I could find on Amazon and as far as I can tell, it's just fine.

But, I didn't know that a kg would last so frickin' long so I suggest that for a few bucks more, just get Hatchbox. It seems to be highly recommended and a spool lasts a LONG time.

Edit: Also, maybe look into a variety pack of colors on half pound spools because I'm already sick of printing in white.

Just ordered this one myself off Amazon.

TOOTO 5 PCS Male Straight Pneumatic 4mm M6 Ptfe Tube Push In Quick Connect Fitting PC4-M6 for Reprap 3D Printer Bowden Extruder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019RQ5EYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8-oFAbYR6TNMT

Do NOT purchase these screws from this Amazon listing.

The head sticks up beyond the bed surface and the screw drive hole or whatever it is called is not centered on most of the screws nor is the cut off the screw drive well cut like is shown in the product image. I'll try to remember to post links to a couple pictures later showing what I mean.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf this isn't an affiliate link or anything, just copy and pasted from the amazon app. I had to cut the sheet down a bit. It scores and breaks pretty nicely. Keep in mind it's about 1mm thick though.

~~I can't seem to find a 12V Noctua 40mm fan. Will this 5V one from amazon work?~~ and will it require any soldering?

Edit: Found a 12V Noctua

I did a 7 hour print last night after adding the damper. It had a bit more stringing than normal, but I'm mostly going to attribute that to running too hot. The print was beautiful. No real issues to say.

I picked these up from Amazon: (3 pack) NEMA 17 Steel & Rubber Stepper Motor Vibration Damper + M3 Screws - CNC, 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07415B39B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DlOUAbCFSFHGV

They seem pretty good quality and fit perfectly.

Sure thing. It ended up being cheaper for me on Amazon with Free shipping, but Newegg also has it.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAADY5U14594

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071W93333/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Search Amazon for 3D Printer Heating Block Cotton Kapton Tape Insulation and you will see a number of them, for example, Here is a set of 10 Heating Block Cotton with Kapton Tape Insulation that should work for $11.:

https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Insulation-Ultimaker-Makerbot-Creality/dp/B076Y4FHYM

I've tried running without the tube once, at least in the V2, it just starting leaking every which way around the heater block...

If you're up to it, I just bought a E3D V6 copy from Amazon that claims that no PTFE tube is needed and is able to print very high-temperature plastics like poly-carbonate.

I myself am sick of having to cut a new piece of PTFE every couple of weeks and then having to open up the hotend and replace everything...ugh..

I haven't gotten the V6 yet, but seems like a design change from the current hotend is the only way.

Btw, I have the MPSMV2, which has a slightly different hotend than the V1. If you have the V1 of the Mini, you have to first print a carriage adapter.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4FHN72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-Z9cBbSRMNVZ0

UPDATE EDIT:

I received the V6 and managed to put it on...what a wonderful hotend. Everything just works. Had to do a bit of soldering for the heater cartridge and to accommodate the new brushless fan (that is amazingly quiet btw) but totally worth the work!

you can adjust the bed height to line up with the nozzle - I bought a bunch of replacement e3d hotends from Amazon and the nozzle throat (connects the big heatsink to the hotend) is a bit shorter than what comes with the v2. I've been keeping the top of the nozzle loose to try to keep the nozzle level, but this causes heat creep and jams in the throat nozzle. It's much better to screw the heatsink to the nozzle so it's flush with the gap, and then use the Allen wrench to adjust the bed to allow a paper to slide under the nozzle at all 4 corners.

tl;dr: adjust bed height.

also you can replace individual jammed parts, order is: fan clips, fan, 2 screws, heatsink holder, unscrew the top of the heatsink and push down on the top ring to remove the Bowden tube, pull filament out of heatsink area and cut the stuck filament, (while hot) unscrew heatsink from nozzle throat, unscrew nozzle throat from hotend using wrench + pliers, unscrew nozzle tip using socket wrench and wrench / pliers. during reassembly, hot elements need to be hot and screwed in tight otherwise filament can leak out everywhere.

EAONE All-Metal V6 J-Head Hotend Full Kit with 5 Pcs Extruder Brass Print Head + 5 Pcs Stainless Steel Nozzle Throat for E3D V6 Makerbot RepRap 3D Printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074NX68MP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DDYkBbKYY5ZGS

The cheapest one on Amazon

First, yes heating it back up will make it easier to remove, and as far as the hot end being ruined, you are probably fine, but you might need to replace your insulation strip, which you can get on amazon for cheap.
This is what I bought last time, feel free to peruse amazon and find some you like.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7NLX44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Cleaning off the hotend is a bit of a process, but take your time and get it cleaned up and you should be fine

As far as what happened? I had a similar thing happen a while ago, and mine was due to a bad gcode file and my print head just stopped and was pushing filament out, so maybe re-slice your print and try again? There are other probable causes, but if you double check your nozzle is in tight, and your first layer is good after that, you should be fine.

If no one else replies to your message feel free to dive deeper into this reddit, others have had similar issues in the past and have had resolutions, so I am confident you will be back up and running in no time

I used this glass available on amazon and it is awesome: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BYJQH79/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 You also have to clip on this Z spacer which is very easy to print and install: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029

You can buy machined aluminum extruder tension arms on Amazon for a few bucks.

It's scaled down to 50% for the hilt and 49% for the blade sections. I just use Cura's pre done setting for the MP Select Mini v1, bed temp @ 50C and hotend @ 205C.

Filaments are both AIO Robotics in Dark Grey and Red.

For the bed I use a PEI sheet off amazon. It was recommended over build tac and tape.

Other than that I've got no special sauce to give you man.

https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Creality-Ender-3-Printer-Printing/dp/B07DGV2L8Z/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ender+3&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;qid=1563224422&amp;s=prime-day&amp;smid=A1KWJVS57NX03I&amp;sr=1-3

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169.99 right now, I just bought one a week ago when the exact printer was on Woot. All Ender 3s come out of the same factory and the team that does the QC is the difference. SainSmart has done a great job putting a great manual in the package, all the tools you need. Lots of spares and I did not have the out of square issues you hear a lot about on an Ender 3. From my earlier research this seems to be the case with SainSmart they have a great QC team it shows once you have the device. The build surface is not as nice as the Creality one or if in the US Comgrow from Amazon. I have not opened mine to look at the board yet but a few people have mentioned getting the newest creality board in theirs which you can load vanilla marlin on or just load the creality firmware.

Ya! Mine was broke for over a year, awful prints and no idea why. I tried everything (cleaning out nozzle etc.) Finally, I realized there was a small crack in the corner of the extruder (the very top piece on the printer where you load the filament) The clamp that holds the filament has a lot of force and it eventually made a crack where one of the corners screws into the printer/stepper motor. I replaced it with a metal extruder and it totally fixed my problem and I was up and printing amazing again for about 4 months until my screen died :/

Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DDGGN92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vpmDFbV1001GQ
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That’s an E3D V6 clone. You can find them on Amazon for fairly cheap. Here’s a 3 pack for $10.99.

There are also a lot of other options with adapters you can print off, you just need to be sure to print them in ABS or PETG.

The OEM part is here.

It's just some fiberglass (maybe cotton, from a couple reviews I've seen?) insulation and kapton tape, so you could fudge it if you have something around, or get on Amazon for something generic and roughly equivalent.

I made the mistake of using Acetone to clean the bed (and killed any adhesion that it had before that point...)

I ended up peeling the build surface off of the bed and binder clipped on a polypropylene glass fiber build surface that I picked up off of Amazon. So far it's doing well with the PLA that I've been printing, and parts just slide off once the bed cools down.

I would say if you just need it to print, a little loctite will hold it in place (fairly poorly). You can take the coupling to a hardware store and spend 15min trying out all their screws to see which will fit. but what I'm doing, is buying THIS for $4.

&#x200B;

While I have it open, i'll also be replacing the z guide rod stabilizers.

You can use this on the underside of your current bed:

https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-120X120-Silicone-Adhesive-Monoprice/dp/B08BNR7ZS9

Do note though that it is 120w@12v which means it draws 10 amps. So you may need a different power supply since the stock one is rated at 7A.

However, the 7A rating of the stock power supply is vastly underrated. I have read people doing this made and using the stock power supply and the power supply still isn't getting hot. So proceed with your own best judgement.

Upgrading the fan is a good idea. A single 40mm Diameter x 20mm Thick Fan with simple 30-40mm Adapter will do the trick.

You are very welcome! Upgrading to a 40mm fan is a good idea for printing higher temp plastics like ABS. A Cool Guys 40mm diameter 20mm Thick fan with simple 30-40mm Adapter works pretty good.

They're consumable parts, unfortunately. You'll have to replace them about every 6 months if you're printing regularly. Link

So this is compatible? It will fit the Bowden tube and everything?

Found These Cards on line. I was really ticked with the price and that they WORKED. The cards even came formatted just like the micro SD card that came with my printer (FAT w 16Kb allocation).

I have a pile of 1/8" (3mm) thick aluminum in my junk collection that is pretty flat. It would have been easier to get it laser cut, but I used a hacksaw and drill. I got this pad:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BNR7ZS9/ref=

And I'm powering it with a mosfet.

I got the FYSETC 3D Printing Spring Steel Buildplate, which comes with a PEI sheet and is made for the MPM. I'm not sure if a laser cutting place would have an equivalent spring steel. I see that 301 stainless is used for springs, and 304 might work.

Looks like it's trying to print something.
I've got the same model at home, always have been printing with the SDCard... recently bought a glass plate due to my bed warping... so much happier with this : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GKGTNKY/

What slicer are you using? (Include the version)

I just got these and they seem to be working well. I emailed MicroSwiss and they said this nozzle is compatible with the V2.

I tried a ender-style MK8 nozzle and it was too tall to fit even with the bed screwed down as much as possible. V6 seems to be the way to go.

I bought a set of 10 nozzles and tools. Probably pretty cheap but they're brass and have worked so far.

LUTER 3D Printer Nozzle Cleaning Kit, 10PCS 0.4mm 3D Printer Nozzles Extruder Nozzles for MK8 + 5PCS Stainless Steel Nozzle Cleaning Needles + 2PCS Tweezers + 2PCS Wrenches https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08T14PJMV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ZPDNZDTEMMWT2Q79FD45?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

You could try replacing the fitting that the tube inerts into.

Witbot PC4-M6 Straight Fitting 4mm thread M6 Connector for 3D Printer (Pack of 10 pcs ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NANKRTD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_PESQMM34S3X2EZFP6312?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I’m just now actually getting around to ordering this, does this one look ok?

SHNITPWR 12V 10A 120W DC Power Supply Adapter 100V~240V AC to DC Converter 12 Volt 10 Amp Transformer 5.5x2.5mm Tip for 5050 3528 LED Strip Light 3D Printer LED Driver CCTV Security System LCD Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PWZQ33N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HF047K396SPB7NRXQT95

https://www.amazon.com/Pneumatic-Fitting-Connect-Straight-Extruder/dp/B07Q9Q9JDP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bowden+tube+coupler&amp;qid=1647018017&amp;sprefix=bowde%2Caps%2C115&amp;sr=8-3

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This piece?

No there isn't really a printable replacement because of how much stress and wear it's under.

I got a multimeter from harbor freight and used the leads for the power wires. I got some 24 awg silicone coated hookup wire from Amazon for the signal wires. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LH1G2IE https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html

Nope, that's not gonna cut it, that only allows 1.5A it might do 2 or 2.5 with a heatsink but very inefficiently, and I really wouldn't push it past 1.5 for basic sane headroom. So that won't cut it for a Pi.

Buck Converter This one would be better, more than you need but you'll have all that extra room available for anything else you might want and it will be fine on the Mini supply.

In case you can't tell by the picture, you're not going to have cooling problems :)

Ahh

https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Converter-Performance-Adjustable/dp/B07CN5YD6J/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=2GR8PWBVDWD9D&amp;keywords=red+buck+converter&amp;qid=1645048480&amp;sprefix=red+buck+converter%2Caps%2C160&amp;sr=8-5

This is the exact one that I have in my printer right now. I didn't know that you could only do 4gb, but I've never had problems with this 16gb one. Kingston Digital 16GB Micro SDHC UHS-I Class 10 Industrial Temp Card with SD Adapter (SDCIT/16GB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DOFCL3G/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_F5PNCYP2WKT6CB472G7W

Ah, ok. Yeah, its all metal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBXDJY3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I am not sure on the retraction settings. Is that defined by the Cura profile?

I will look into options for insulating the heatblock.

Heat creep is actually internal. It's when the filament melts too high up inside the extruder. This is extremely problematic as it can then solidify in an area hard to melt, causing jams.

Another thing that can cause jams is too high a retraction with an all-metal heatbreak. I don't remember which one you ended up using. Did you go with the all-metal? What retraction settings are you using?

The droop in the part is from heat radiated from the heatblock into the part (that's what the sock and/or part-fan is for). Here's some of the rockwool insulation I was talking about (there may be better deals): https://www.amazon.com/BronaGrand-heating-cotton-printer-insulation/dp/B075CST527

I bought these and they work good. The nozzles are longer than the original, so you'll need to drop the bed a bit.

Nozzles

Pc4-m6 sound right?

AiTrip PC4-M6 Pneumatic Fitting Push to Connect for 3D Printer Bowden Extruder 10pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCN35GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GTEHC7272ABE7MYJF3CW?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Get it for $170 shipped from jet.com with coupon code TRIPLE15 (new customers, $30 off three times):

• https://jet.com/product/MP-Select-Mini-3D-Printer/6aacb19912cd471b9a4bfa697da6cc24

I ordered one last Wednesday and received on Friday.

It will be a bit before I can respond with more detail when my kids go to bed, but I use SD Card Formatter made by SDCard.org

https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter/

Just using default settings has worked for me.

I also copied the files from my SD card to my windows 10 computer before wiping. I’m sure you can find the gcode online as well. I don’t have the cadet so I don’t know for sure. You definitely should be able to copy files around.

I see the firmware version in this video you did is 40.156.2.

My machine is on 40.110.2. Maybe it hasn't updated the firmware. I got the firmware update from your site yesterday. Should it be v40.156.2 if the update was successful?

Thanks for doing that site by the way. It has been an absolutely awesome ressource for getting the hang of this stuff.

I don't remember which one I bought exactly but it was something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Fittings-PC4-M10-Connector-Filament/dp/B07PV9LCLY/ref=sr\_1\_6?keywords=3d+printer+bowden+tube+nut&amp;qid=1638847433&amp;sr=8-6

I needed a new switch as well, ordered those and they are a bit too large. After some more searching I finally found the exact ones!

http://www.dx.com/p/diy-mouse-micro-switch-20-piece-pack-122495#.WXaJ4p8pDqA

Yea I'm using those as well. But my motor has nothing, it's bare. I'm assuming I can just pull out the plug attached to existing and put it in new?

https://vgy.me/vcWDQr.jpeg

Also stupid question how to install this antibacklash assembly.

Base of assembly > standard t8 nut > spring > top of assembly

I highly recommend this glass bed - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FRK6TZX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Ever since switching to a glass bed + glue stick, I've had better first layer cohesion and it is MUCH easier to take off the bed afterwards. No more prying and scraping and pulling with all of your strength. Seriously - best $13 investment ever if you're printing a lot. You won't regret it.

Here's where you can download CURA: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software

The manual that came with the printer also has instructions for another program, Repetier-Host, which works on Mac, Linux, and Windows: https://www.repetier.com

I haven't used them, but both installed on my Mac and run.

Yes. I experimented with it once and it is horribly slow. Even a very small 2MB gcode file takes minutes. It's completely unusable.

If you really want Wifi printing you would probably need to add something like http://octoprint.org/ on a Raspberry Pi that is plugged in USB to the printer.

There will be a few different sizes of puller available.... The one marketed by walkera worked best for me.