Honestly there weren’t a lot of options in the 3/4 size guitars that fit what he wanted so that drove me to making one myself. I even asked, what about a red guitar with black flames? His cool response, “Sorry dad, that just won’t do.” Hey, he knows what he likes and I don’t blame him.
Edit I: And for anyone wondering, I used these to paint it with. Happy to answer any questions!
>"I even tried with our then 11 month old's pinky. Its here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8Q52RU/"
Dude sawed off it's 11 month'old's pinky and tries to sell severed body part on amazon !
I bought a 100 pack of dice the other week on Amazon for a drinking game. I was wondering what type of person uses a subscribe and save option for 100 packs of dice.
Now I know.
Might I suggest using a actual projection screen instead of a white fabric?
I have a cheap projector, one of the portable ones, and for the longest time I was just projecting onto a wall with white paper or a white sheet like you. Until i invested in a 80 dollar in a projector screen and stand. It was the biggest difference in colors and contrast. It actually felt like a tv screen.
But you seems more of a DIY kind of guy, so I know they make a paint that dry out to a nice white projector screen if you have something to paint on.
They range from 60 for the cheaper paint to 300 for the best stuff with is good for higher def like 4k videos. https://jet.com/product/detail/e0f00e9c61ed4577a0b7c223300a9248?jcmp=pla:ggl:gen_electronics_a1:video_video_accessories_projector_accessories_a1_other:na:PLA_348772140_24231299100_pla-161714294220:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5vXEBR...
Awww cheers man!!
Yeah I've thought about the water spillages and they've given me nightmares. Unfortunately we were given a specification and design brief that stated the product had to be "unique". This was the best thing I could come up with that wasn't totally outrageous and something I would still want in my house, still functional, and fit in the product location all while meeting that client requirement.
I thought I could just swap the table and switch the drawer around to the other side so the flat surface corner was closest to the bed to minimise spillages hahaha.
I managed to get the watch off of Amazon in a sale for £190 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CB9A8VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zfiBAbKMYRE7W
It's the one pictured on the right
Already on it. I just scrolled through an Amazon search of "horse shower curtain" until I found one my wife liked. https://www.amazon.com/NYMB-Resistant-Bathroom-Decorations-Curtains/dp/B07DNBJYSH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=shower+curtain+horse&qid=1557156900&s=gateway&sr=8-3
BTW - this was $17.99 when I bought it last week. I guess they raised the price after realizing everyone on reddit is going to start buying shower curtains to make wall art. :)
Yes they make wall plates that allow you to connect an Ethernet cable to the back and front. Basically it is a junction box.
That is what I did to hardwire my TV so it did not us wifi.
According to Chrome's computed style, you're using font-family Coming Soon which is a comicy-scripty font. And you've selected italics.
I think what you see as a "perfectly normal font" is the fall back because your computer doesn't have Coming Soon installed. Probably best to just pick the font you want directly, but with all these goofy wordpress themes and CMS platforms, that might be easier said than done. I understand the pain of being unable to override someone else's choice.
The Home Master kit was $337, plus I got this kit for $14, and I think I used 3 or 4 additional 5' pieces of PEX ($2/each) as well as the two fittings for the faucet ($4/each) and the slip coupler ($12) so total cost was maybe $375.
You're better off, signal wise, using one of these: https://www.amazon.com/BOPLAT-Ethernet-Punch-Plate-Female/dp/B08Y7TNWY3
Every connection on a leg of ethernet degrades the signal some. The keystones are exceedingly simple to wire and provide better overall performance than the one linked above.
Look up Paul Sellers on youtube. He will get you started with the very basics of hand tools. You need:
So for about 200 bucks you can get into it and do most anything. It will takes you an hour (once you get the hang of it) to do what a domino machine can do in 3 minutes, but a mallet and chisels don't cost $1500.
With hand tools you will likely want to pay to have your wood stock all pre-shaped to be flat and square. If you'd like I could throw together a list of basic power tools that will probably add a zero to the budget if you bought everything at once, but give you great return on time investment 120$ for a circular saw, $200 for a thickness planer etc. The big thing is to buy basic and only buy when you need it. Not every project uses every tool.
Now get the fuck out there and make some bird houses, planters, Adirondack chairs or anything you want to get the saw dust started!
Edit: >it will takes you an hour
Q: Will there be a minimum order quantity?
A: The minimum order quantity will be one unit.
http://www.raspberrypi.org/faqs
I assumed I could get away with not ordering one, but that is not allowed. The minimum I, and you, have to order now, is one.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pas.webcam&hl=en
I keep buying shitty $10 prepaid android phones on slickdeals and just google the "skip account creation" steps.
Instant wifi cam/little computers.
Someday i'll have a whole squadron of cheapo, cast-off robots protecting my house.
Sound like the exact problem I had with my maytag dryer. Kept blowing thermal fuses. Found out it was the relay on the control board under the top cover. Check the continuity of the relay as it was stuck closed and caused the dryer to go into over heat condition by not regulating the temperature. i replaced it with $5 in parts and a soldering iron.
Maytag Dryer Microcomputer 35001153 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E8D67Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nm1cBbTVW2N3M
Black square in lower left corner on this board
DNS66. Best system-wide adblocker I've used on Android that doesn't require root and is free without ads of its own. I didn't even notice the ad cancer!
Edit: to get it, one must download the F-Droid app repository and you can find it on there. Here's a link: https://f-droid.org/packages/org.jak_linux.dns66/
Edit 2: wow my first gold! Didn't even notice till just now. Thanks a lot, kind stranger.
The pepakura file (and the viewer to print/instructions) are both free IIRC. Started this many years ago but never finished. Kudos to OP for finishing!
ETA links for Link file versions and Pepakura Viewer.
Brill thanks for the response. Looks like we don't get DryDex in the UK, do you think this product will work?. I will see how it looks without painting it, but given that the damage does go quite high up (see first pic) I think I might have to. Kick plates are a great idea, may have to look into that.
Also despite appearances, she is a Shiba Inu, though I have no doubt she'd be just as proud as a Husky if she managed to get through to the garage.
Okay, I made some 3D plans based on what I could gather was going on in the picture. It looks like the whole thing folds together flat when not in use so that's what I went with.
The only major tool you will need is a table saw. Hopefully you have one or can borrow one, because I don't recommend trying to build this with anything else. The plans use only 3/4" hardwood which you can buy at any hardware store or lumber yard. The only piece you might have trouble with is finding a large enough base. You could get away with using 1/2" plywood for that if you don't mind a rough edge, or you can cut and glue/clamp two pieces together. Although the picture is pretty small, I used arbitrary dimensions of 12x18 with the thought that something like this would be good for cookbooks and the like (no that's not a woman in the kitchen joke, just an observation). If you want something smaller you can just halve the dimensions and use 1/2" hardwood.
Anyway, here's the cut list:
Vertical Panel:
(2x) 2" x 12"
(3x) 1 1/2" x 14" (2x) 1" x 14"
(1x) 2 1/2" x 14" (notch out 1" x 3" cuts for flip-up book holders)
(2x) 2 1/2" x 3/4"
Base:
(3x) 3/4" x 13 1/2"
(1x) 18" x 12"
Glue/Clamp everything together as shown in the diagram. Make sure you use wood glue and you shouldn't need nails.
The two pieces connect with a piano hinge which you can also find a a hardware store. Two small cabinet hinges could also work. The only piece I don't have in the plans is the metal kickstand, since I'm not aware of anything that can be pre-bought. I'm sure you can figure that part out on your own.
Hope this helps!
You are looking for 'individually addressable' rob led strip like this
ALITOVE WiFi Smart RGB LED Strip Lights with App, Compatible with Alexa Google Home, 16.4ft 150 LEDs Addressable Dream Color Music Sync Voice Control LED Strip with WiFi Controller and Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HD1CS45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TBh7DbYE2FENP
Not say my buy this, but the Bluetooth app makes it easier than messing with an arduino or raspPi
and even more proud that you didn't mention that you have a funding drive going. Here's the IndieGoGo page for donations to help make more devices for people with disabilities. (I've just donated)
OP, why didn't you mention your fundraising drive on IndieGoGo? You know we redditors can help out such a worthy cause.
You should put this in your top comment for visibility!
Thanks! I think the biggest thing for the finish was using a wood polishing wax (EEE), which gives it a super shine, and the. Covering it with carnuba wax.
I ordered the pipes already partially carved, but discarded due to flaws and misscuts. So I basically cheated and they aren’t diy from the start. This is the amazon link I ordered the unfinished pipes from: 10 Un-Finished Tobacco Pipes, Damaged, Mis-Cuts and D Quality https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HMTWOTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ovG4Bb0Y76W1D
I'm sure u/WarwickADavis has plenty of stories about not being able to see in his Ewok costume.
In fact there's some in Size Matters Not.
If terminated correctly, yes. But given that (at least in my experience) bad termination is the #1 cause of physical layer network issues, the inline coupler might be the better choice for DIY.
It's kind of ironic/funny that the termination shown in the photo for that Cat6 jack is a good example of the kind of termination that will possibly fail Cat6 certification. It has excessive untwist. In order to maintain Cat6 performance, you need less than 1/2" of untwisted wire prior to termination. Ideally, you'd want 0".
If OP is going to go with a jack instead a coupler, I'd recommend buying a Leviton Cat6 jack. Leviton puts the termination ports flat against the back of the plug, which makes it very easy to place the fully sheathed, twisted portion of the wire into the center of the jack, then pull the wires out in a radial pattern to terminate. This results in extremely short distances of untwisted wire that do not run parallel to each other.
I think the little adhesive dot bumper feet might look better and maybe paint the tile black or get black ones from the store?
For whatever it's worth, this was an relatively cheap & easy replacement solution for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DCP4N3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Both my factory fobs starting eating batteries after about 115k.
Even without a ground, the exterior of your dishwasher should not have any significant voltage present.
If you're getting shocks, you have multiple issues occurring. A bad ground connection is just one of them. You may also have swapped live and neutral at some point. You may have shorted live to the chassis.
About the only advice I am comfortable giving you is to obtain a receptacle tester and check every outlet involved in the remodel. You will very likely find other issues, or the same issue creating problems in other outlets.
Sorry to be that guy, but this looks dangerous. Pillows & blankets are a trip hazard and the bed frame edges are points of potential head injury.
I suggest raising the mattress so that it's safely above the edge boards by two or three inches.
Something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Roving-Cove-Furniture-Protectors-Pre-Taped/dp/B00PTL6JFU) may work as well, but keeping the bumpers attached may be difficult.
I appreciate and respect your effort. It was made by a loving mother. That said, those edges and particularly the corners at the foot of the bed (at least the one exposed) are a tragedy waiting to happen.
Zinsser Bulls Eye Clear Shellac Traditional Finish - https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-316-Bulls-Shellac-2-Pint/dp/B000LNQBBI
TransFast Antique Cherry - https://www.amazon.com/Homestead-TransFast-Powder-Antique-Cherry/dp/B0037MCOKC
I mixed one tablespoon into the Shellac (directly in the can) and it gave me the color I was looking for. Just start with a small amount of dye, do a test, and add more until you get the color you're looking for. This method worked great for me and had the benefit of being the stain and sealer on one.
One word of advice, if you drip any of it on the floor it looks really close to blood... My wife nearly had a heart attack when she came looking for me while I was at the store.
In a similar analog vein, I just use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VVN92H
When the red lines line up, I'm perfectly parked. Not as fancy as a laser, but there's something satisfying about the fact that it doesn't need to be complicated, no power is needed, no maintenance, etc.
Treat it like a wall mounted TV and get a recessed outlet. Totally safe that way and looks way better. Arlington DVFR2W-1 Recessed Electrical Outlet Mounting Box with Paintable Wall Plate, 2-Gang, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001XQ4JFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oLpVAbY6KN8ZX
It's a bidet attachment. It's luxurious.
I bought these polish pads off amazon and then used a wet look sealer
I used Carl's Blackout cloth from amazon. And since I was stretching it I saved some money and just got one of the folded ones.
If you plan on doing more laminate flooring, I definitely recommend that you invest in a laminate guillotine. Limits your trips back to the miter saw because you can make them all inside the room. You only need perhaps a jigsaw for more technical cuts.
Next time measure from the center of your room to the walls and figure out exactly how wide your last board will be on each side, that way you don't have a full board on your starting wall and a half board on the ending wall, they will both be the same width.
Looks great for your first time around!
Edit: I should also mention this sweet tool that makes cutting intricate corners and other things a breeze.
Sorry about not providing this sooner but, my process:
Boss was complaining about not getting any picture, and a loud screeching noise. He purchased a new lamp, replaced it, but it had no effect.
After receiving it, i plugged it in and powered it on, heard a loud grinding sound, like someone using a table saw, and the Lamp and standby lights would blink. After a few seconds it would make a click and seem to reset itself.
After looking up common problems with this set (Model: HLP5063W) there seemed to be a few common problems, one of which was the glass color wheel shattering, or grinding on a bad bearing. Found this video for replacing it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cx4pbNjsxfU) and took it apart to confirm that indeed the color wheel was the problem, see first picture in album, then ordered a new one on amazon here
You can read more here https://justgetflux.com/research.html
exposure to excessive light at night, including extended use of various electronic media, can disrupt sleep or exacerbate sleep disorders, especially in children and adolescents. This effect can be minimized by using dim red lighting in the nighttime bedroom environment.
Blue Light Affects Sleep (and here's why) We know that night-time exposure to blue light makes people more alert and also affects their circadian timing.
The science that explains these new systems has accelerated over the last 20 years, with the discovery of a new photopigment in the eye, called Melanopsin, in 1998. Many are familiar with the "rods and cones" that provide our visual capabilities, but the retinal ganglion cells containing melanopsin are sensitive to a wide range of "blue-green" frequencies around 480nm.
A wide range of lights appear to be able to stimulate the circadian system in humans, and so while we refer to "blue light" in order to distinguish it from the light our visual system sees, it includes lights that appear green, blue, cyan, and even orange.
> What would the proper way be?
You want a copy of Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking. A used softbound version is about $10 on Amazon.
This book teaches you everythimg you need to know about joinery. It shows you how to do it correctly with both power and hand tools.
If you’re going to drop $850 plus sweat equity on a table, you should do it right. Wood is still sort of a living organism even after the tree dies. It gets bigger, it gets smaller, it twists, it warps, it checks.
Which is why traditional joinery was developed over centuries. It compensates for wood movement and makes the strongest joints. When you see a chair or table that has help up for 200 or 300 years or longer, that’s because it was built with correct joinery. You can do it, too, and you’ll learn how from Tage Frid.
“But I don’t have any tools!”
You don’t need to buy the tools. The OP used a shop to do some of the work. That’s good. Any cabinet shop in town (and you will have one) can do some of the work for you. It’s not that expensive. Assembly and finishing are expensive, but you should do that yourself.
Also, most cities have tool rental shops. Rent what you need. We had to remove some concrete at my house recently and we rented a jackhammer. Renting was absolutely the cheapest way to go.
If you have a little bit of a cash cushion, buy used tools off Craigslist. Then sell them when you’re done. You should be able to break even.
I think the cheapest possible somewhat viable solution is steel zip ties.
They sell steel zip ties that have a tensile strength of close to 200lbs. Just wrap those around the frame where the bolts were, they should hold you just fine. I used to make signs, and we used zip ties similar to these to hold signs in windy places, and they are seriously strong.
How I did it it. Thank you IKEA.
Edit: It's midnight and I'm tired. Tomorrow, I will continue. This is the actual version.
If anyone even thinks of buying one of these, they need to instead buy a banana stand and bend the hook to lay a little more flat if the top doesn't fit. $70 is ridiculous.
I was thinking the same thing. Just mix in Micro Foam Beads they are plentiful on amazon.
Micro Foam Beads for Stuffing and Filler (.25 Cubic Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BUHQMYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nDbTzb2T812Q6
Good luck!
Not to take away from the coolness of your desk, but a large computer desk doesn't cost thousands, not even $350. You can get one on Amazon for under $140 w/ free shipping.
Unrefined uraninum ore is pretty safe and can be purchased on amazon. I'd suggest putting it in a vial of water to eliminate particulates though.
Thanks! It was a fun learning curve. I’d done backsplashes before but never mosaics, thankful they both use a lot of the same techniques and tools. Monarch Rain Chain
From consumer reports brand reliability ratings (lower is better):
lcd
2% panasonic
3% sanyo, sony, sharp
4% insignia, vizio, lg, jvc, sylvania
5% toshiba, samsung
6% magnavox, philips
7% westinghouse
10% polaroid
13% mitsubishi
plasma
3% panasonic
5% samsung
8% lg
Consumer reports is great. I have subscribed for years and so did my parents. They work very hard and are unbiased. Get an online subscription. Take their surveys and tell them about what you own.
My garage is the same and I bought something like this. Mounted on my ceiling next to the garage door opener. Best money I ever spent.
DEWENWILS 30 Ft Retractable Extension Cord Reel, Ceiling/Wall Mount 16/3 Gauge SJTW Power Cord with 3 Electrical Outlets Pigtail for Garage and Shop, 10 Amp Circuit Breaker, Metal Plate, ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YKDMFQR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_CIx3Fb3QD282T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you need to move the table around a lot, you can put a set of stepdown caster wheels to help. They are slightly off the ground when you're not using them, so the table doesn't wobble. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q1KXW4/
According to this page, you just need a 12V, 7.2Ah battery. Amazon has them for $16.99
Crayola BIN8462 Colored Pencil Classpack, 14 Colors, 462 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NOV91U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nvKmCbTSN0GFB
The original comment was that he should tweet crayona... and if he’s cutting them into, say, thirds, this should be plenty.
52 bucks
I like it, but:
. | . |
---|---|
1 | I would absolutely positively make sure to ground the fixture, because of the electrical tape insulation of the socket shells - it's not particularly robust, ESPECIALLY at elevated temperatures. You'll melt off the adhesive or dry it out and the tape will come loose. |
2 | For the same reasons I'd also run it on a GFCI |
3 | I'd only use it with LED bulbs, because of temperature concerns. |
4 | I'd recommend switching from electrical tape to silicon self-fusing insulating tape. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape/dp/B01IVNQ7RC or this https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Scotch-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Rubber-Electrical-Tape-70/?N=5002385+3292437112&rt=rud |
Thank you. Yeah the posts are a concern of ours as well for exactly what you bring up. We were really surprised at how short the posts would have been and it made notching them to attach the beam really awkward.
Edit: We did not treat the cut ends. I watched a really good YouTube series afterward and was like yup, wish we did that.
I actually really recommend this book in particular: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Complete-Guide-Updated/dp/1589236599
There's more to building a deck than just having it meet building codes, so I still found it useful.
Nice work! You could add some corner guards too.
You're welcome.
When you first install it, the transition will be really abrupt, but when you are running it normally it gracefully tunes out all blue light in time with your local sunset over a period of time.
Looks almost identical to this $20 one.
DEWHEL Universal Aluminum Automotive Motorsport Fantasy Manual Stick Shift Knob Gear Stick Shift Head Gear Polish Chrome for Honda Mazda Subaru Toyota Mitsubishi Nissan Chrysler Jeep Wrangler etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N8MN8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mctMCbYGCQSZ5
Wow, nice work. It'd be completely credible to have that on some caribbean beach serving cocktails. Oh boy, I'm making myself dream about past-covid times. Oh, and a beautiful void you got <3
Just one minor tip, depending on the climate you live in, you might want to either take off the spouts from the sweeter drinks (like the raspberry vodka) and close them off, or use ones with lids. I've worked as a barkeep for a couple of years, and during summertime we had quite some problems with both fruit flies as well as ants trying to get drunk.
/edit: dangit, I thought the sockets were American, hence the .com link. Here ya go :)
Latex house paint, craft paint for the nebulae, glow in the dark paint for some stars. then mixed a Photo-luminescent pigment into the craft paint for the glowing nebulae. Also used some modgepodge mixed with the pigment for some of the stars, and some epoxy mixed with pigment for other stars.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075PFMTRK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is close, but the one you need is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HG5M89 and if it doesn't solve your clogging then you likely have far bigger problems - poor slope of the pipes, roots growing through pipes, excessive grease in the line, etc. That's when it's time to call in the professionals. Even if you had the equipment and knowledge to solve it, it's unlikely worth the effort and grossness, and cleanup involved.
Source: Owner of many old and high maintaince homes.
Sponge painted craft acrylic paint mixed some with Glow in the dark pigment. Dark colours first, working towards the lightest. Sponge a light layer of black over each layer before applying the next colour to give it depth. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075PFMTRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I saw one advertised that is actually 4 or five small pillow “slices” that slide into a larger cover so you can actually sorta customize the height of your pillow. Want it smaller, just use a slice or two; thicker, use all 5. Seemed like a pretty neat idea.
Edit:It’s the pancake pillow and it’s unfortunately quite expensive!
You can purchase at Home Depot or Lowes.
Faucet and Sink Installer(8-in-1)Multi-purpose Wrench Plumbing Tool for Toilet Bowl/Sink/Bathroom/Kitchen Plumbing Repair Installation Hand Tools(red)… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SRYS4N4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZFTXK89D8074PA9C654E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's great! I bought something similar on Amazon that allows you to adjust for 2 sides. Same thing, set it so that once it rolls off the dash you're in. Been using it for about 5 years now flawlessly.
Looks like a 4 element Compact Fluorescent (CFL)
Kind of like this https://smile.amazon.com/Compact-Fluorescent-Light-Bulbs-Mogul/dp/B003BDYEFU/
But most I found online had pin bases, not screw in type
People usually make these judgements based on their hourly salary. Some go a step further and use their take-home pay. But the real cost when you hire out work is in terms of what you have left after paying ALL your expenses - not just taxes but house payment/rent, food, car gas, etc.
Someone who makes $25/hour might say it only takes them 8 hours of income to pay a plumber $200 to install a new sink. But if all their regular expenses add up to $20/hr, they really only have $5/hr of spendable money. Paying the plumber takes them a full 40 hours at their job vs giving up one Saturday of DIY.
I got this from a book called "Your Money or Your Life", which gave me a whole new perspective on spending. Now I think of costs in terms of hours of my life instead of dollars.
> Getting the USB hub on the monitor to power on the pi 3. The one built into this monitor was not supplying enough current to power on the pi for some reason.
Unfortunately, the Pi 3 has a recommended power requirement of 2.5 amp @ 5V. The standard USB 2.0 port only provides 0.5 amps @ 5V and 0.9 amps for USB 3.0. You can typically get away with powering it with an old tablet or larger smart phone charger as those are ~2 amps. Unfortunately until USB-C 3.1 is a common place, you're going to need a separate wall wart to power it.
> Reflective Window Film - $30 can be obtained on Amazon for no tax in some states.
You can get away with cheaper smaller pieces since 3'x15' is more than enough to make over a dozen 22" Smart Mirrors - this would be a more appropriate and more budget friendly.
Amazing job overall for someone who's never worked with wood and tech - and crazy generous gift!
I lived in Pensacola and Fort Walton and keeping things down in a storm was always a concern. I'd hate to see your beautiful deck fly into someone's house. I used something like these on my shed and the playscape we had. You might be able to retrofit it into your design.
We have a massive fucking shower with bright white grout that has been a pain in my ass since it's been built. It's sealed and all, but that doesn't stop it from turning pink from the scum buildup. The best way I found to clean the shower floor grout is the following:
Make sure you wear eyewear and possibly a respirator (if you have asthma or the area gets little airflow)
Commercial Soft Scrub with bleach - you can get it at HomeDepot. This shit will can really fuck up your eyes if it gets in there, so wear eyewear!
Get a set of scrub brush refills (similar to this)
Attach the brush in #3 to a cordless drill using a 5/16" long screw, washers, etc.
Apply softscrub using a standard grout brush. Scrub gently and let sit for 5 minutes.
Go to town with your new drill brush setup.
I only use the softscrub about once or twice a year (if needed). For monthly cleanings, I take a box of baking soda, dampen it and rub it into the grout lines, and spray it with vinegar. I then let it sit for 5 minutes before hitting it with the drill brush.
Very nice. Also curious why you didn't just use an off the shelf LED strip which is like $30 for a reel of 300. Here's an example from amazon that has the LEDs closer together: https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B01LSF4Q00/
But any of the WS2812b LED strips will work. There are also multiple different strips that are either enclosed in a silicon tube, or bare strip.
You also could have made the holes closer together on your 2x4 soldering jig so that you wouldn't have to bend the wires. Kinda negates the entire point of the 2x4 soldering jig lol. Hindsight on that i'm sure.
Thanks!
I bought this set of controls, an Open-Box 24" monitor from my local MicroCenter, and everything else was pretty standard, i.e. regular Raspberri Pi, a cheap case for it, the cheapest speakers I could find on Amazon, etc
Why not meet at the halfway point. Get a normal organizer that keeps stuff seperate but not so tight that you need to carefully place them in each box.
I would recommend on of the generic $8 organizers. It makes it so you dont need to dig through so much crap to find the last clean fork.Also it makes it so it does not sound like someone is throwing pans down the stairs when they open the drawer.
They make nice looking bamboo ones for like $20 too if you care about looks.
Yeah, I grew up using circ saws from a young age and never thought about kickback. If anything the saw could kickback I guess.
Table saws... I’m aware of Kickback. I had it happen once cutting a 2’x 4’ piece of that plastic cardboard stuff of all things. Black and blue above my tool belt for a month. I just never thought something so small and light would kickback on me.
I do swear by those magnetic feather boards on big table saws. Gives me so much confidence working alone, it’s like having a second person with you.
You use flux cored wire with a MIG when you have no gas. That's about it. If you were a professional you'd notice it doesn't work quite as well as plain wire with gas but it's really not a big difference. As an amateur your welds will be ugly either way ;)
They have it at Home Depot/Lowes for sure. Or you could just get a 4 pack on Amazon.
A cam cleat - or something similar. Should be able to find at a local (or online) hardware retailer. https://www.amazon.com/Racelite-261-S-Cam-Cleat-Strap/dp/B003XTJ01U/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1539350297&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=cam+cleat They're used in sailing - and for things like... running a flag up a flagpole. And next time - post a budget, a location. Everyone's ideas have been good ideas - with the limited information you provided - and you just shoot them down because they dont exactly fit your needs.
https://www.amazon.ca/DearHouse-Windscreen-Backyard-UV-Proof-Weather-Resistant/dp/B07V1D8V9P
Works like a charm. I choose to weave it between my railings to keep it more secure as were over 200ft in the air and have crazy high winds.
I see plenty of fridges sold as "garage ready" which I thought meant that they worked in temps from 0 to 100 or something. If you already have a fridge, I would recommend a programmable temperature controller like this: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=programmable+temperature+controller&qid=1607138038&sprefix=programmable+temperature&sr=8-3 Hook it up to a incandescent lightbulb in the fridge with the temperature probe in there too. Set the fridge temp for 36 and the temp controller for 34, or something like that. On cold days the controller will cycle the light on to keep the fridge above freezing, on warm days the fridge will keep itself cool.
Pump is a 12v 35psi pressure pump I got off Amazon for $30. It is only on/activated when pressure drops on the line (i.e. when you turn the faucet on).
The unit is fed via a 25ft 12v extension cord from the cigarette lighter in the car or off the car battery directly if you'd prefer. On the side of the unit I have a female cigarette lighter port which is where I run the male-male extension. There are two 2.1A USB ports which are always on so you can charge phones and stuff, a master power switch for the lights and pump (just in case a fitting were to fail and cause the pump to run all night and drain the car battery).
So, the only way to make those zipties safe for anyone, is to use flush cutters. I've worked in too many tight spaces where a single ziptie does more damage than a knife.
Found it on Amazon just searching 24v to USB.
DZS Elec Mini DC 6-24V 24V 12V to 5V 3A USB Buck Voltage Converter Regulator Power Supply Module USB Charging Step Down Voltage Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07121W7Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4FXiBb2Z22YW9
My mother in law has one on the bottom of her storm that has a little button you can kick, and then to close it you just move the door slightly more open and it releases. This one:
https://www.amazon.com/Touch-Hold-Smooth-Standard-Replacement/dp/B00R3HQB7Y
You could try leather tape. I used it to fix a hole in my pleather couch and its held up pretty well.
This looks like Animal Upon Animal
if this doesn’t work next year, try scare tape.
It’s super cheap and doesn’t seem like it should work, but it does...stupidly well. And, in practice, it’s prettier-looking than it has any right to be. Kinda meditative to just sit and watch ‘em flutter, really.
You don’t need to use too much or too many pieces, just a few strands hanging off of the eaves should do it, so long as they are long enough to flutter freely in the wind. The flashes of light instinctually scare the shit out of many birds (perhaps because some predators have eyes that reflect a bit of light, and the random movement of the tape in the wind makes the flashes seem believably alive).
There are also “prettified” versions that come in shapes and stuff to look more like purposeful decorations, but honestly the regular tape seems to do the job best, and actually ends up looking the nicest IMO.
I have had some success using powerline adapters as well in a house, where it is difficult to run a cable.
You could just get a doorbell for hearing impaired people: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759H24YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_RF5PV1YKJ2RB22YJ1JG4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (it has a mute mode with flashing light only).
So get something like this 8 slot organizer..
Weird thing to downvote me for. "This product does not fill my exact needs downvote".
looked it up on aliexpress, doesn't seem to be the case. it's the same sort of rings but they're not the same rings sold by secret wood, and from the looks of it not nearly as intricate or well made. secret wood rings, if you look at their collection, have a very distinct shape that all of their rings share. notably, they taper in near the top. none of the rings on aliexpress match their geometric exactness and particularly telling are most of them where the wood meets the resin at the base of the "gem." the chinese knockoffs look very roughly done and cheap. their domes also widen out (ala ringpop effect).
We got one of these for the same problem; it works well because it actually rests on the floor rather than be attached to the door.
With the rise of 3d printers it has gotten much easier to find large power supplies. This one should work:
Looks very nice. I'm an electrician, put in a lot of lights, and I think your frame within a frame idea is spot on; it's a great way to design a light so it can be installed or taken down without juggling the entire fixture on the top of a ladder.
Your use of the wagos to make a "busbar" was a very creative way of making neat wiring. An alternative would be to use terminal strips with jumpers and if you want to make the wiring super neat, use sticky backs and zip ties.
Great stuff!
You can scrape away the silicone with a razor scraper (time consuming drudgery). But it’s nearly impossible to get that tough stuff completely cleaned away. Better alternative? A caulk remover. Comes like a tube of toothpaste. Cover the old caulk, let it sit and then it’s easy to clean away. Might take a couple of applications but much easier and effective than scraping. McKanica is one brand that works. Not all caulk removers work on silicone. DON’T re-caulk with silicone. Use a tub and bath caulk.
Here’s a link to find some: https://www.amazon.com/SILICONE-CAULK-RMVR-MCKANICA-MfrPartNo/dp/B002YC84WS
Do yourself a favor and get a MagVent
I had the exact same issue as you (and the same layout and clearance) and even worse my vent leading out of the house was at 90 degrees and a bit above the dryer's vent (thanks previous owners). At first I put a 4ft hose but it killed my dryer's ability to dry clothes because water would pool in the hose and the air exhaust practically hit a block due to the 90 degree bend.
I installed the 90 degree version of the MagVent (took about 30 min for me) and it's been a dream since. It shortens the exhaust host needed, the vent is very well sealed, and if you need to move the dryer it's a breeze to just pull away. Even better you is you just need to get the dryer close enough to the wall vent and the magnets take care of the rest.
It'll be the best $40 you spend.
That isn't true at all. I can get away with a simple magnet and just use it to find a sheetrock screw.
Look at this stud finder on amazon - CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mPogzb17D3WA9
4.5 out of 5 stars with over 7,000 reviews and only costs $9.99. Thing doesn't even require batteries.
I would tell people the exact opposite of what you said. Don't waste $30-40 on a stud finder when a $9 one will work just as well.
Nope, just a standard case but with the whole right side being dedicated to cables / power supply / drives. I have the newer version of it.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-High-Airflow-Cube/dp/B00D6GINF4
And the newer one:
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Air-740-CC-9011096-WW/dp/B01LHFLPB4
EASILY the best case I've ever used in a build, by a wide margin.
I'll upvote you for being critical and spelling out what you perceive as problems, but I respectfully disagree. The people running this have registered their organization as a charity in England. They're not concerned with being profitable, rather making cheap computers accessible to all, especially schools. They're not concerned with shipping millions of units to OEMs or other manufacturers. The price is very sustainable since they have enough cash to pay for their first round of production and then some. If they sell those all out, which I bet they will have no problem, that will finance subsequent rounds as the costs are cheaper than what the price they're selling. I predict these will be hugely popular and later iterations will get more feature rich and the price will drop as they refine their design.
That MDF is going to be a moldy mess I fear; wear a mask and remove it.(I’d recommend a half-face respirator like https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7R9LS/ )
As for waterproofing, epoxy coatings will do best, but are expensive and not the easiest to apply. Varnish is probably going to be best for the walls. Especially if it’s just going to get a fresh coat of paint from the kids. For the floors, I’d look for decking material or cement; any mdf or plywood isn’t going to handle many soakings.
And get more opinions; mine is that of someone who hasn’t seen the playhouse or done half of what I suggested.
Yeah I was going to say that those ones don't work well but. I have bought a pack of two off amazon that work and say "it's on motherfuckers" for like 15 bucks. Edit link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ICT9E02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K7.szb9HMS3TA
He isn't joking about those speakers. I have the same pair, got them from Amazon. (Of course) They sound incredible for $130 bucks.