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yes you can. i've done it with every ipod since the 2005 nano following these guides
everything can be disassembled.
We buy products at retail just like anyone else. When what we want isn't sitting on the shelf, well… that's a story in itself.
We go to lengths to get hardware. Big, seriously long lengthy lengths. When it comes to acquiring devices, really no length is too long. As long as it's (mostly) legal and it doesn't require sacrificing any ewoks. Because I'm kind of attached to the furry guys.
When really high profile devices come out (iPads, iPhones, etc) we generally take the "I-don't-care-how-much-it-is-I-need-it-now!" mode of operation. We'll do what we gotta to make sure that we get gizmos first, even flying to the other side of the world on occassion to take advantage of the ~18 hour time difference.
Concerning Sponsors: This guy is usually our main sponsor. But every once in a blue moon, a manufacturer will help us out with a teardowns. The "Will it Blend?" folks sent us a blender for reference when we did the teardown on that blending behemoth, and their engineers helped fill us in on some technical questions that we had. But that's the exception—it's almost always just us and Ricky Bobby.
The camera in the iPhone 5 can be removed and cleaned it's just not an apple authorized repair so they can't do it. Check out http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+5+Rear-Facing+Camera+Replacement/10699 for how to take it apart the. Use rubbing alcohol and q-tip or microfiber cloth. Or swap it out for a "new" one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009Z5WP1I
Good luck.
This "innovation" also led to the latest macbooks having their internals encased in a plastic mold - so when it does break you can't repair it and have to go out and spend another $2000 on a new crapbook.
Great question! We gave the previous MacBook Pro design a 7 out of 10, which is pretty darn good. Here's why:
- Easily removable bottom panel and readily accessible battery connector allow for easy repair of most components without touching the battery screws.
- Unibody design allows for easy access of most components with minimal amounts of extra work needed to get to them.
Problems:
- Tri-wing screws limit the average person from replacing their own battery.
- LCD replacement is still very tricky, which could easily result in shattering the front glass panel. But at least they're separable.
- Lack of service documentation. There's no way we'd ever give a 10 to a company that used legal threats to keep their service documentation out of the hands of independent repair shops.
Dell deserves top marks for a lot of their laptops, and they make service documentation available. They don't get enough credit for that, IMHO. It's important.
This is why I hate Apple. They have Overpriced stuff, but ok, whatever I guess...(still really lame)
But, main point: They MAKE the customer DEPENDENT on them. Thats being bad to your customer. (who paid alot of $ anyways) They are screwing the customer, so the only way you can fix their product is if you pay them, what they want to charge you. (Example: http://www.ifixit.com/blog/blog/2011/01/20/apples-diabolical-plan-to-screw-your-iphone/)
This will end up making the customer pay whatever apple wants them to. They will have a monopoly on the support of their devices, and prices WILL be higher, because they make them hard to service.
EDIT: spelling
Yeah I don't know what the fuck they're taking about. Not half an hour and not easy at all. You have to disassemble every single piece of the phone to get to the screen.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-iPhone-4-Display-Assembly/3148/
I think people initially confused it at first because it was reported that it had 16 Gb of onboard storage. Which is correct but 16 Giga*bits* is 2 Giga*bytes*.
This is according to the iFixit teardown: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Chromecast+Teardown/16069
>iFixit staff analyzed each smartphone, awarding a replaceability score between zero and ten. Ten is easiest to replace.
>How we replace devices:
>Apple knows all the talking points to convince you to upgrade. Battery less than 100%? Upgrade. Screen protector has a bubble under it? Replace. Device is more than a year old? Upcycle. Visit any of our Apple Store locations and an army of well-groomed young people will happily take your money and congratulate your excellent taste.
...and then every iPhone gets a perfect 10.
Brett, iFixit Tech Writer/Tinkerer here.
We have had to work with adhesive in devices for a while now, but by no means do we think it is an acceptable way to hold stuff in place. The new MacBook Pro, though, really takes the adhesive game to a whole new level. The placement of the plastic and aluminum frames around the battery cells makes it almost impossible to get anything underneath the battery to pry it up. Putting a fat wad of adhesive right over the trackpad is a pretty crappy thing to do as well.
When I first saw the glue holding the battery in place, a small part of my soul broke off, fell to the floor, and shattered into a million pieces. I then spent the next few minutes crying. It was bad.
But seriously, I am much more fond of screws, latches, clips, and other mechanical fasteners. These fasteners let you take something apart and then put it back together again, no cursing. Glue, on the other hand, makes you sweat and curse just to get something apart. Then, it remains just sticky enough to make you think that you could put your device back together. But it lies. It doesn't let you put your device back together. Once glue looses it mojo, it's only a dust-sink.
> Apple's new MacBook Air comes with standard SSD's soldered to the mainboard
New MacBook Air
Does not have standard SSDs—as in the ones on the market today won’t fit it.
The SSDs are not soldered to the mainboard.
I hate phone makers for this. I just want to say it's well worth the time and money to learn how to fix nearly anything on your own phone from iFixit. This has saved me so much money and allowed me to keep the same phone alive for a long time.
Edit: fixed link
I can't recommend the retina machine for reasons I outlines in the Wired article. I suspect that it's the recently updated MacBook Pro (non-retina), but I can't say that for sure until I get my grimy little paws on it. I'm guessing it's pretty similar to the previous MacBook Pro, which is why I recommend it.
Pros:
- Upgradeable RAM (Apple says 8GB, but I think you can go to 16GB)
- Optical drive slot (I couldn't care less about optical drives—instead I yank them out of my machines and use this baby to install an SSD.
- Super rugged and battle tested design. Apple has worked all the kinks out of this thing over the last few years.
- Pretty darn easy to service (I assume, based on the current model).
Cons:
- Midly difficult to replace battery (OMG toolz!)
- Glossy screen
Things that might change my mind: proprietary screws on the bottom, glue on the battery, changes to the display assembly that make repair expensive.
The core problem is that Apple is so far ahead of the competition. I was really optimistic about the Dell Adamo, but they were never able to get the price reasonable. We don't take apart a lot of non-Apple laptops because we don't hear about exciting ones very often.
So if you're listening, awesome product designers that don't work for Apple, make something awesome and I'll buy it! Or don't, and Apple will make the kittens pay.
No, there is a 3-axis magnetometer in the iPhone and I'm sure Android devices have similar hardware.
http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/118986/What+compass-magnetometer+is+used+for+the+iPhone+5
There is also a GPS, 3 axis accelerometer and 3 axis gyro. The only one of those four sensors that can tell you which was is N if you are not moving is the magnetometer.
The GPS knows where you are but cannot determine direction without movement.
The accelerometer and gyro are great at tracking relative movement but drift is a huge problem in these devices so there is no way the phone could track which was is N based on last GPS heading and then device movement.
It's daunting the first time, but not really that bad. You can find a teardown guide or video for just about any model on Youtube, or iFixit for a lot of stuff.
The first thing you want to get is a spudger. Even when you take every single screw out, you'll need one to separate the plastic parts. Using a screwdriver will gouge and ruin the plastic. Once you have the right tools it's a lot easier.
The first laptop I took apart was an old Toshiba. I completely destroyed the thing. Now though, I can completely disassemble them and get them back together in an hour or so tops. So it does get easier the more practice you have.
That said, what iFixit is complaining about is how Apple solders EVERYTHING on. Failing RAM is a common problem. With almost anything you can just swap it out. Macbook Airs for example have it soldered on. You'd have to replace the entire motherboard. That also means you can't upgrade it, so you can't buy the one with the lowest RAM and then install more yourself for a fraction of the price Apple charges. Now you have to buy the top end one.
I like Apple's designs but their decisions with stuff like this is irritating.
Source? People used to taking apart gadgets say they first saw it on Apple devices. I'm happy to make a correction if you can point out how I'm wrong.
This is my source:
>Contrary to what has been widely reported elswhere, this is not a security Torx screw. Security Torx have a post in the middle. Apple would never use a real Torx security screw with a post for two reasons: they’re ugly, and the posts break off easily with screw heads this small. To further complicate matters, Apple occasionally refers to these as “Pentalobe security screws.” Please don’t confuse them with security Torx.
>This screw head is new to us. In fact, there isn’t a single reputable supplier that sells exactly the same screwdrivers Apple’s technicians use—which is Apple’s point. They picked an obscure head that no one would have. This new screw defeats even our vaunted 54-bit driver kit, which until now we’ve been able to claim that it’s all you need to disassemble just about any consumer electronics. Alas, no more. Thanks a lot, Apple!
Now they didn't say Apple specifically invented it but I've searched and I haven't found prior history for pentalobe screws. If it wasn't Apple, who did invent it/approximately when?
Just curious is all.
It'd be best to just buy a replacement, PS2's aren't too pricey and fixing it would probably take some time (assuming you have all the parts). I've taken classic xboxes and PS3s apart as far as consoles go they can sometimes have some very tricky 'anti-piracy' measures in place. I think PS2s were before most of that, so they're probably easier to dig around in. In every console that I've opened, I know that the optical drive's make/model are linked with their motherboards.. and if you try to get a replacement drive from another broken unit to put into your machine, it may not work unless the consoles were built around the same time and use the same parts from whatever manufacturer was providing the optical drives at the time.
Here's the best resource I'm aware of for digging around in electronics (and buying replacement parts if necessary): http://www.ifixit.com/Device/PlayStation_2
edit: neato, this is the first cake day I've actually noticed!
Not true. The antenna design was defective and quietly altered after the infamous Antennagate press event.
YouTube was filled with videos of iphone owners showing their signal drop to a "no signal" status as they held onto their phones. It was unusable.
Jobs tried to deflect with the "attenuation zone" excuse while offering free bumpers.
Verizon towers had nothing to do with it and it was not overblown.
> Has anyone else noticed any of these problems?
Yep, everyone with an iPhone 3G who installed iOS 4 noticed the slowdown issue. Apple should never have allowed 3G users to install iOS 4. Unfortunately, there's not much you can do now, short of an unsupported, clumsy downgrade process to whatever the last 3.x.x release was. Here's a video that tells you how to roll back, and here's a Macworld article that explains the process. If you choose to follow these instructions, please do so carefully; I am not responsible if you brick your phone, lose all your data, etc.
As for the meager battery life, dropping the phone several times may have had an impact on that. Age is probably also a factor. You can get a brand new battery from iFixit (along with all the tools you need for installation) for $15.
EDITS: Added links. Hopefully made my post more helpful.
Yikes. If you look at an iMac teardown, you can see that that LCD is held in place with eight screws and the glass on front is held on with strong magnets. It looks like they didn't screw in the LCD and the force of it against the glass exceeded the force of the magnets.
Big mistake.
No that would not work. That drive will not physically fit into your laptop. Here is a picture of your SSD.
You need an SSD with an mSATA connection. I can't say for sure what will be compatible with that motherboard, but here is a full teardown of your laptop. Hope this helps.
Disclaimer: I work for iFixit.
> And? Who the fuck is taking these apart at home?
Surprisingly many people. There are also a ton of small repair businesses that use our guides. America's not too big on it, but much of the rest of the world is.
> Do they rate cars on how easy there are to take apart?
Our goal is to empower people to be able to fix their stuff, and yes, that includes cars. It's still a fairly new area for us, but we're making progress.
Good question. From our licensing page:
> All iFixit content is licensed under the open source Creative Commons BY-NC-SA 3.0 license. > > [snip] > > When you submit content to iFixit, you retain full copyright to your materials, and you can use your content in any way you like, including using it for commercial purposes and distributing it to other sites. > > By submitting content to http://www.ifixit.com, you give iFixit nonexclusive rights to republish and relicense the work. iFixit may use the material and can license it to other parties without prior consent from the original author.
I wonder what a Texas Instruments Stellaris is doing on the logic board. (seen here: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/MacBook-Pro-with-Retina-Display-Teardown/9462/3 ) Why would a motherboard need a fully fledged 32 bit arm cortex MCU?
I'm going to break away for a bit here: from an EE perspective, this new mac pro is fucking cool. The heatsink design, the way they route the power (mini bus bars!), the fucking nuts high-speed gpu connectors and insanely dense flex cables, and all that computing power into something so small. I mean, it's proprietary and expensive, but it's cool.
The construction of the laptop is more due to the designed thickness, or more accurately its thinness.
Everything in the laptop is not designed to be replaced or upgraded, ever. Ram is directly soldered to the main board, the SSD is a new proprietary drive, and the entire top lid (the screen) is one, complete piece. The battery then, to save every millimeter possible, is glued in, probably to save space that would otherwise be taken up by screws and other mounting hardware that a removable battery would require.
EDIT: Here is the source behind my statements. iFixIt did a tear down of the Retina MacBook, and ultimately gave it a 1 out of 10 in terms of repairability.
EDIT X2: The link I provided above was actually an updated tear down, one that focused solely on the Retina Display of the new MacBook. Here is the original tear down of the main body.
Well every phone is going to be a little different in assembly/dis assembly so your best bet it to find a repair guide for each device.
Go to IFixIt.com they have step by step repair guides and tear downs of most major devices (not just phones). Once there go to "Guides" > "Phones" > " Your Brand" > "Your Phone". If they don't have a repair guide the tear down is usually just as good but it's an entire tear down walk through so just stop and reverse where necessary.
If there's a repair guide it will usually have options for the individual part (Screen, touch panel, bezel, etc).
As an example here is the Iphone 5 repair guide:
http://www.ifixit.com/Device/iPhone_5
Edit: If you're learning so that you can charge people to repair their phones then make sure to use proper tools. IFixIt sells several tool kits for tear down/repair purposes. If you just use a screwdriver to pry the phone apart you risk damaging the unit both cosmetically and functionally. Your customers will not be happy. Also do not make your customers any promises you're not prepared to keep.
Could you maybe in your spare time take one of them apart and post a good quality picture of the electronics inside (both sides)? Something like this http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone+5s+Teardown/17383#s52342 so the chips and manufacturing processes can be identified. That could give some light on who are we dealing here with and how "in danger" is dogecoin from the threat of such ASICs. That would be great.
I would not recommend to upgrade to Mavericks with only 2 GB of RAM. In fact this <em>is</em> the minimal requirement, but it will be pretty slow. But you can easily upgrade the RAM to 4 GB.
Besides that, yes, upgrading will keep all your files intact, but you still should have a backup. (You always should have a backup.)
Retina MacBook Pro has a 1 out of 10 repairability score according to iFixIt. Ars Technica wasn't impressed by this.
iFixit covered this and weren't so impressed with the use of adhesive:
> cutting open the display destroys the foam adhesive securing it shut. Putting things back together will require peeling off and replacing all of the original adhesive, which will be a major pain for repairers. > > http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iMac+Intel+21.5-Inch+EMC+2544+Teardown/11936/1?revisionid=HEAD
> It looks like you are also using GPS which uses lots of power
Using navigation uses a lot of power. The GPS chip itself, as far as I can tell does not.
- According to the ifixit teardown, specifically step 12, the GPS chip that the Galaxy Nexus contains is a "SiRF SiRFstarIV GSD4t GPS tracker".
- According to its product product page, it uses "8mW (typical) TricklePower™ at 1Hz update rate".
Since USB is 5V, in order to deliver 8mW of power over USB, the phone only needs to draw 1.6 mA. USB supplies 500 mA at a minimum.
So, accounting for power conversion and stuff, a reasonable guesstimate is that the actual GPS chip is probably using less than 1% of what a USB charger supplies. The GPS chip is not the biggest culprit, not by far.
The problem with navigation is that it combines together several power-hungry pieces of hardware:
- The screen
- The network (for fetching maps it displays)
- The CPU
- The GPU
- The audio chip and the speaker
- Sensors (GPS, but also probably compass and possibly accelerometer and orientation sensors)
Basically, navigation uses the majority of the hardware on your phone, all at once. That's the reason it drains battery so fast.
I've found for long-distance trips, I personally like to preserve battery power by simply pushing the power button. The screen turns off, but I still get voice navigation. Then I'm not burning power to light the screen, nor am I burning power (CPU, GPU) to render maps in real time.
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Retina+Display+Mid+2012+Teardown/9462
- MacBook Pro with Retina Display 15" Mid 2012 Repairability Score: 1 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair).
- Proprietary pentalobe screws prevent you from gaining access to anything inside.
- The lithium-polymer battery is glued rather than screwed into the case, which increases the chances that it'll break during disassembly. The battery also covers the trackpad cable, which tremendously increases the chance that the user will shear the cable in the battery removal process.
- The display assembly is completely fused, and there’s no glass protecting it. If anything ever fails inside the display, you will need to replace the entire extremely expensive assembly.
That sure sounds like something that has 6 easy screws to fix. Oh yeah. Let me just wait 6 weeks for my DealExtreme mac screwdriver order to come in and then I can open it. Just one week per screw!
I would have disagreed, but /u/Swischeez is entirely correct.
compared to the newer macbooks, where not even the ram is upgradeable, the Mac pro is suprisingly modular. the case comes open with a simple switch, and all the screws are non proprietary torx.
taking off the chassis reveals the RAM, which uses a full size DDR3 DIMM. and also reveals the PCIe based flash storage, which can be easily replaced, however upgrade parts don't seem readily available yet.
now the most unexpected thing about the mac pro is that the CPU is replaceable too. if you take off the logic board, then you reveal an LGA 2011 socket, which will work with any compatible CPU.
the only things that you're stuck with are the GPUs, the power supply, and the single, suprisingly quiet fan. it's much better than apple's other recent hardware efforts.
source - http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Mac+Pro+Late+2013+Teardown/20778
While there is a lot of battery, the logic board in the Air does go across the entire machine: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/MacBook-Air-11-Inch-Late-2010-Teardown/3745/1#.T9eGsrVYssc
I'm surprised the board wasn't damaged because the whole right side of the machine is bent pretty good. I understand bent corners (see them a lot from people dropping them), but the whole machine has a good kink in it. Impressive.
Just a minor quibble: the SSDs are not soldered. However, they do use proprietary connections, so it's going to take a considerable amount of time before you'll find any 3rd party SSD that can fit there.
I have the Mid-2010 MacBook Pro 15",and I've pimped it out:
- 8 GB RAM
- 750 GB 7200 RPM Hard Drive running file vault
- 80 GB SSD installed using our awesome optical drive replacement kit.
It's a solid machine, and it runs Diablo III well. Which is all you can really ask for. I did all the upgrades myself, and it's only missing one screw! (Which fell out after the repairs, I swear!)
I have an iPhone 4S, but only because I accidentally murdered my venerable iPhone 3G by jumping into a lake with it. ::Tear::
But those are just tools. The gear I get really excited about are my laser cutter, Lincoln Electric welder, Craftsman band saw, and things like our GE refrigerator that broke last week and I just managed to fix. Once I figured out it was the heating element in the defroster it was trivial to order the $20 part online—it literally took 5 minutes to install.
Yes. Get some 91% rubbing alcohol, some qtips, a set of precision screwdrivers, something to pry with, and maybe a pair of tweezers or forceps (I found them useful when dealing with the flex cables). 3DS doesn't have any triwing screws, thank heavens. If you're going to remove the upper half, you'll need a heat gun or a hair dryer. I haven't taken that half apart, so I can't really comment on it.
I found these two guides from iFixit and TechRepublic to be helpful.
Taking out the main board is the hardest part, with all of the flex connectors it has. Removing the SD card slot is also a royal pain in the ass.
After you've got everything apart, you can wipe it down with the alcohol using a qtip. You can drop a few drops around the 3D slider if that's sticky as well (This, along with moving it a few times, worked well for my milk-3DS). After you're satisfied and everything is dry, put it back together and turn it on.
As far as I have seen, there are no "warranty void" stickers, but there were some marks that came off very easily with the alcohol, so be careful.
it looks like a loose cable connection to the screen. hopefully it is in the lower case because that repair is pretty easy. here is a guide to take your laptop apart. you should check the connector at step 6 if that does not fix your problem i don't suggest taking the glass of the screen as it is very easy to break.
This may be a dumb question, but why is a non-removable battery a 'deal-breaker'?
The battery only needs to be swapped out when it no longer holds a charge, which may be once in the lifetime of the product.
So designing your phone around replacing the battery seems like overkill, especially if it forces you to cut corners on the rest of the design to accommodate it.
Besides, changing the battery in the iPhone is fairly straight-forward anyway. Piece of cake. http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-iPhone-4-Battery/3141/1
Check out ifixit, they also have repair manuals for damn near everything. ifixit
From that page: >The worst part about shattering the front glass on the iPhone 4 isn't the bleeding fingertips that come free with it, it's that you will also have to replace the LCD even if you didn't break it.
This is a fairly common question. You should be able to disassemble the phone and physically remove the camera unit without otherwise affecting the phone's operation.
Edit: resources http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-One-Teardown/1654/1
Sounds about right.
The logic board for the Mid 2011 MBA costs $500. It's the main circuit board inside the computer and houses the CPU the graphics card and a bunch of other stuff. It's probably what fried and is, basically, the entire computer.
Then the extra $255 is for the service and in case anything else (the hard drive, the screen, the ram, the speakers, the trackpad, the keyboard, etc) was damaged.
Liquid damage sucks. Soon enough we'll have completely waterproof devices. Until then, it's best to not drink and compute.
Well, sometimes technicians will cut a power cord if the device is damaged, I have done this many times. But that by no means is a universal standard.
Fix the cable and see what happens, just be VERY careful. Remember that less than .5A can be fatal and these old scopes most likely pull more current than that.
Though before you do anything check the continuity on the existing severed power cord. It's done like in the link except that you use the severed leads.
Also, a few tips to avoid electrocution:
1) When doing repairs make absolutely sure that the thing is not energized. Be careful here, if it has any capacitors they might still hold a charge after you unplug the device.
2) Make sure you plug it into an outlet with a GFCI. This way if you touch the chassis and there is a ground you won't be electrocuted, this is very important.
3) Don't wear any metal jewelry around your hands. No rings or bracelets.
I used to do repairs like this on a daily basis and these a just a few things that I learned which help to keep you safe.
Edit: When checking continuity what you want to check is that there is infinite resistance between the ground and the other leads (i.e. no sound when you connect them). If there isn't then that means that there is a ground in the scope.
You can try iFixit.com, they sell replacement battery kits for about fifteen bucks USD. Unless the device is still covered by a separate, active AppleCare agreement, I don't think Apple will help.
The current gen iPad has 256 MB of RAM. Check it out under step 15 of this teardown guide: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPad-Wi-Fi-Teardown/2183/2
We are not very far away from the iPad 2 release (presumably early April), which I'm sure will have at least 512 MB of RAM (seeing as how the iPhone 4 has 512 MB of RAM, and it seems like a logical step).
I replaced my HDD with an SSD and put a 500 GB 7200 RPM HDD in the optical spot using one I got from iFixit. I boot off of the SSD and gleefully giggle at how fast things open.
You'd be amazed at how many design decisions end up being made as compromises to deal with limitations in something completely unrelated to the end product, like what machines the factory has available, what the customer or OEM is willing to pay for, what the OEM decides an acceptable yield is, whether components or raw materials are consistently available, whether something can be automated (robots, yay!) or requires manual intervention on the line, etc.
Source: have spent whole career in high tech manufacturing and have a masters in industrial engineering (focus on manufacturing systems & design for manufacturing (DFM).
<edit> If you are wanting for interesting reading, the http://www.ifixit.com teardowns of phones and computers sometimes provide interesting insight into ID & IE choices. I can't remember what the product was, but I recently saw a solar calculator teardown where someone was wondering why in the world there were two red LEDs soldered to a board in a place where they provided absolutely zero lighting function and were completely hidden in the end product. The answer was that they acted as voltage regulators. Found it: http://www.reddit.com/r/whatisthisthing/comments/2zlsri/what_is_the_purpose_for_the_leds_in_a_ti30xiis/
> SSD is soldered to the mainboard
It's not, it's 100% replaceable/upgradeable. 10 screws, the whole bottom comes off, and the SSD is right there. Refer to step 2
Also, the batteries are good for 1000 cycles before they're considered "dead." I've had my Macbook for 2.5 years, and my original battery, after nearly 450 cycles, still has 95% of its original capacity
Well in that case you probably need a new battery. If it's no longer under warranty you can replace it yourself for a low price and without too much difficulty. Here's a link to buy a new iPhone 5 battery (make sure it is OEM and includes the tools if you don't have them). And here's a guide. Good luck :)
Welcome news considering that iFixit rated the HTC One 1/10 in repairability.
I love this phone, but cringe at the thought of having to replace a cracked screen. And there's no way I'm putting it in a bulky case, might as well go with a cheap phone if you're going to cover it up.
Your problem is getting unreliable brands like Dell, HP, Acer. Surface is made by a subsidiary of ASUStek. Good brands include ASUS, MSI, Lenovo (unproprietary versions). Always purchase from these companys, they have higher grade parts as well as their quality and design is excellent. Since surface was designed by Microsoft and the internal workings made by ASUS, id say your in good hands there.
Cooling tech is dependent on the manufacturer ASUS uses Cooltek fans and copper heatsinks, and design each laptop differently. Microsofts has a two fan pure copper design in theirs, it'll only get 50•C from what my friend has temped. http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Microsoft+Surface+Pro+2+Teardown/18604/
ASUS provides 1-3 year accidental warranty's that are included with all their laptop's (depending on the model 1-3 years) their my favorite brand. http://www.asus.com/About_ASUS/The_Meaning_of_ASUS
Some site has a Surface teardown and I think the battery could be replaced but it would clearly void your warranty.
Here's the link:
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Microsoft+Surface+Teardown/11275/1
Step 7 says that while the battery is glued in, it is way more replaceable than an IPad battery.
Beer is water based but we are talking about a silicone based liquid which will stick to any surface it touches while beer will slowly evaporate. And since it is the new mbp with retina display, any kind of DIY fix is nearly impossible (again, source).
Instead of guitar picks, we picked up 100 of these. I emailed them to ask about bulk pricing. The support guy set up a special coupon code just for me to use. I don't want to say how much they were, but it was less than half, and I got free shipping.
I'm sure if anyone wants to order 10 or more, they will give some kind of discount.
Also, they're not rubber or plastic. They say it's "Vulcanized Fiber" and, as they claim, it can hold up to a soldering iron. Not directly for a long time, but if you're prying something up while desoldering it, you won't have to worry about it melting.
You should probably do a bit of disassembly to see if anything internal got displaced. At the very least, it looks like the tab that the side screws set in got broken from the top plate. This is what holds the keyboard to the bottom of the case. If its only one broken tab, i wouldn't worry about it from a safety standpoint. Internal parts getting shuffled around would be my larger concern.
Of course, only try disassembling if you're comfortable voiding whatever warranty might be left on it. If that's the case, iFixit has a pretty detailed guide on how to disassemble it.
The problem is probably the DC-in, it you look at the place where your ac adaptor plugs into your computer see if there is any visible corrosion (green) there, it not it is probably inside. The good news is the part is about $4 the bad news is Apple will probably charge $85 in labor to install it. However it is a quick and painless repair.
/Former Apple Mac Genius
edit: It is possible that the logic board itself is damaged and that repair will probably exceed what you want to spend, however it is 89.32% likely just the dc-in
edit edit: I found the part it is here http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-MagSafe-DC-In-Board/IF186-019 and the directions to doing it yourself here http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repair/Installing-MacBook-Core-Duo-MagSafe-Board/288/1
You can get a replacement screen from laptopscreen.com for $60 to $100 for a 13" Macbook, depending on the Macbook model.
Then follow the directions at ifixit.com or Youtube to replace the screen.
I got the screen and front assembly on amazon for like $15 US and the repair took about 20 mins. Need a Torx T2 driver and something to pry with, but otherwise it went smoothly and was pretty easy.
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/BlackBerry+Z10+Teardown/13445
No.
If you would like a more detailed explanation of why go ahead and read on, but the short answer is no.
The iMac from 2010 that you have is only upgrade-able by taking the graphics card out of the '11 iMac and swapping them out. These aren't something you will typically find by themselves so you may need to buy a computer to upgrade the one you have. But let's say you get your hands on the graphics card, and your still looking to make it happen. The repair itself is no simple task, one mistake and you could easily break the display, logic board, or other major components. You also need a space to take nearly everything out of the computer, and it all needs to be ESD safe. In my experience this will need about 4x3 minimum of desk space. You also need experience, the first time anyone takes apart an imac they usually break something, and when its your own, that's rough. So save yourself some money and a headache and either get a new one or deal with it as is.
However, if you still feel like doing it, there is a guide to do so here http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+27-Inch+EMC+2309+or+2374+Graphics+Card+Replacement/9553
Have you looked at the how to guides on taking it apart? The front glass is actually attached with magnets and is pretty easy to get off using suction cups.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+21.5-Inch+EMC+2389+Hard+Drive+Replacement/6284
Just to clarify.. According to this (http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+4S+Display+Assembly+Replacement/7277) Step 22 is for the piece on the left and step 25 is for the piece on the right? And thank you for taking the time to help. I really appreciate it.
Take the phone apart again, all the way. You're going to have to anyway if you want to fix and and put those parts back. Then follows this guide...
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone+4S+Teardown/6610
ALWAYS use iFixit. There is an iphone/ipad app if you'd prefer. I don't see those two parts after scanning through iFixit, but you're bound to find a spot where something is missing when you're reassembling.
Your battery is most likely consumed. Fortunately, you can pick up a new battery pretty cheaply (often under $20) and the procedure to replace is pretty simple. This guide from ifixit is really helpful. The whole thing took me about 5 minutes.
this, i wouldn't give too much on this single shot.
also look at a Galaxy Nexus teardown, I can't see any "impact zones" there either
Is the computer itself still working? If so, you can probably just replace the backlight/lcd inverter rather than the whole computer. I use this site (http://www.ifixit.com/Device/Mac) for when I need to fix hardware on my Mac. Good luck.
This is technically not true. While none of them are "customer removable," the iPhone 4/S design allows technicians to replace the battery. It's ridiculously easy to do yourself, though, if you can find a replacement battery.
That depends on what you want to do.
- /r/askelectronics for electronic stuff. Has links to more specific electronic stuff. NOT for recommendation requests of products.
- /r/diy
- /r/fixit mostly for home fixit stuff.
- /r/techsupport for computer stuff
- http://www.ifixit.com: Covers a WIDE variety of topics, recommended by reddit. With steps, pics, sometimes videos, links to tools and parts.
Any modern 2.5" SATA drive will do, but for best performance, make sure to get one that supports 6.0 Gbps.
Oh, and here are the iFixit replacement guides for the 13 inch model and the 15 inch model, in case you needed them.
Any other questions, don't hesitate.
This is actually an old FireWire iPod charger (they came with the first few iPods). You can tell because on newer chargers, the cable plugs in a horizontal orientation, this one is the old vertical style.
(New style) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050SPCGE?pc_redir=1400896243&robot_redir=1
(The one pictured) http://www.ifixit.com/Store/iPod/iPod-Firewire-AC-Charger/IF193-017-1?gclid=CP2a3KK9x74CFYqFfgodK0QAJA
Mine stopped working after a while as well. Verizon replaced it, but if you want to do it yourself, here's a hand dandy guide.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Samsung+Galaxy+S+III+Headphone+Jack-Speaker+Assembly+Replacement/12511
You'll need this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LG-Google-Nexus-4-E960-LCD-Touch-Digitizer-Screen-Assembly-Housing-Frame-OEM-/370981765197
It's the whole front frame, so you don't have to bother with replacing the screen only (which highly recommend not to do).
Look up for a guide on YouTube. You'll need to move every part of your phone from your cracked screen to the new one. It's not a complicated procedure, but be careful with removing the battery. I cut the antenna cable while removing it, so I had to replace that as well.
Also, the package does not come with the tools required.
Here is a teardown, which helped me: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+4+Teardown/11781. It also says which tools you need.
iFixit has all the tutorials:
Both is not difficult, just follow the instructions carefully.
The Razr MAXX is actually 30% thicker than the Razr. The Razr was extremely thin (with the exception of the camera unit), and went to great lengths to acheive this.
It sacrificed repairability and a removable battery, and it had a kevlar back plate to support the phone without adding bulk. It even had a diamond cut chassis to reduce the tolerances and allow key parts to be cut thinner. It's also pretty huge in every other dimension - the screen has a huge bezel, and is bigger than a Galaxy S2/Galaxy Nexus. Take a look at the fourth picture down here.
Finally, the battery is very thin, but also very wide and tall. Most phones have a thicker, smaller battery - with, say, all the components towards the top of the screen and the battery taking up most of the space at the bottom. It should be clear that this makes the Razr uniquely well suited to take a larger battery - if you make the phone one mm thicker, that can all be battery, instead of only half of it. This is very important because large battery phones are (sadly) a niche - being able to take almost entirely the same components as a mainstream phone is important for keeping costs down.
Now you may ask why nobody else is replicating Motorola's approach. First off, they've increased costs and made sacrifices such as size and ease of repair. Second - there isn't a whole lot of evidence that people are really prepared to go out of their way or pay extra for these phones (see: mediocre sales of the Maxx). Assuming there's a small pool of devotees who desperately want the extra battery life without a spare battery, a new entrant would likely be competing with the Maxx in an already small marketplace.
I don't know about this phone, but have you ever seen the teardown of the Galaxy Nexus?
EDIT: Wow, pointing people to the teardown of a previous phone, one packed to the gills with electronics, is apparently completely irrelevant to the discussion. "Uh, wow, I wish they had, like, no bezel on a line that's always had a bezel" totally is.
Don't pay to clean it up. If you have the OS X disc, you can perform a clean install yourself. Boot into the disc, wipe the HDD with Disk Utility, and then reinstall OS. Just make sure you back up your necessary files.
Max out your RAM, but if you really want to see a performance increase you're going to need to upgrade to a SSD. Check if your specific model is compatible with SATA-2, and if it is, consider picking up one of these.
I have a late-2008 MBP (first unibody to come out), I maxed my RAM at 8GB and my HDD failed once. Apple replaced it with another HDD and within a year I noticed the same symptoms from the previous fail. I bought that 256GB SSD and my computer's running better now than fresh off the factory in 2008.
As for physically cleaning, buy the tools necessary to open the shell and get yourself a bottle of compressed air. Go slowly. You'll save yourself a nice amount of cash
iFixit is your friend. Search around and find a guide that shows you how to open it up completely.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unix_time
Looks like something happened with the internal time
A funny glitch in older iPods was related to this where if the internal time gets screwed up like yours did, and somebody guesses the wrong password and locks the device for a certain time, you could end up with [this issue](http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/54386/iPod+disabled+for+21%2B+million+minutes+(can't+restore)
You do realize that all rechargeable batteries need to be replaced at some point, right? if you don't want to pay apple you are welcome to replace it yourself: http://www.ifixit.com/iPad-Parts/iPad-Wi-Fi-3G-Battery/IF180-004
http://www.ifixit.com/iPhone-Parts/iPhone
also, they have step-by-step instructions with pictures for all your Mac repairs.
(have replaced 4 screens, mine & 3 friends, 2 batteries on iphones, and a huge list of MacBook and MacBook Pro parts with ifixit parts & directions - they are awesome)
I found a nice leather breif case (soft sided one, not the ones from the 80s) with a Portabrace strap. I love it.
Inside: MBP LenovoPC Tablet FlashDrive & USB HD. Paper Notepad, and this screwdriver set: http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/54-Piece-Bit-Driver-Kit/IF145-022?utm_medium=frame_module_sidebar&utm_term=generic&utm_source=ifixit&utm_content=recommended_tools
Two things:
First, just because you afford the Mercedes doesn't mean you can afford to maintain it.
Second, the cable isn't just a power cord to the wall. There's a ridiculous amount of tech stuffed into that plug. http://www.ifixit.com/blog/2011/06/29/what-makes-the-thunderbolt-cable-lightning-fast/
Flip chip attachment is still in use-- a modern CPU would look very similar on this scale! Modern system-on-chips (like used in phones and tablets) will use something called "package on package" where dies are stacked on top of each other, which looks like this-- that example is a cross section of an Apple A4 SoC. You can see the flip chip attachment on the bottom die; the top dies use wire bonds, one of which you can just barely see on the right side from the middle die.
Hello,
Back in the 1990s, I used to be able to purchase plastic brackets which were meant to go above the video card and help hold it in place. This was before video cards started to have spine reinforcement from the heat sink shroud, though. I think I saw ads for them in Boot magazine (precursor to <em>Maximum PC</em>, but I can't seem to remember exactly what they were called.
PowerCooler sold (or planned to sell) a product they called the PowerCooler PowerJack. I'm not sure if they are still available.
My initial thought is to wrap the ferrule on the pencil in electric tape in order to prevent an accidental short circuit should it fall. It might be better to replace it with a dowel of antistatic nylon (the same material spudgers are made out of).
Perhaps you could even make supports using a 3-D printer?
Regards,
Aryeh Goretsky
Varying heat conditions and subsequently varying pressure? I think this is a good guess; OP, maybe just pop open the undercarriage and compare it to the factory condition... 13 inch version, 15 inch version.
It's super easy to open up and repair. Just use this and be super careful. Learning to repair electronics yourself is pretty darn useful skill, and replacement batteries only run around $25
Bias much? According to iFixit, S4 is an 8, iPhone 5 is a 7, and an HTC One is an one. Why use an iPhone that is almost as repairable as the S4 as your example when the HTC One (and like forty other phones) are so much worse?
Did you try the manual eject? It looks like a pinhole and should be next too the drive. Unbend a paperclip and push it in there to eject. Then blow it out with canned air or something. If that doesn't work, there are some vids on youtube that offer advice.
Edit: Oh, you might have to rmove the faceplate first. https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-360/system/manually-eject-disc (scroll down a bit)
Edit2: changed link. I think it's a better site for this.
For more thorough repair: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repairing+Xbox+360+Stuck+Optical+Drive/12526
Sounds like bullshit to me. Which components specifically were they talking about?... Because the iFixit teardown ( http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone+4+Teardown/3130 ) seems to have more black than silver (internally). At least to my eyes.
If you want to do it yourself, which being a Macbook Air can be painful, you can do a full disassembly and wash it with isopropyl alcohol.
Here's a how-to to clean the electronics. Obviously there is a risk to this. http://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/Electronics_Water_Damage
I know for a fact from experience that using an Ethernet cable will help with the controller lag/latency and obviously diminish the WiFi problems, seeing as you have a line directly running to your router.
Tutorial wise, I couldn't really tell you, I wouldn't think any of those would exist... But, you can always open the Ouya up and have a look. The link provided is a tutorial and showcase of the Ouya hardware: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Ouya+Teardown/14224.
If I read it correctly, you will basically need a new charger ($79?) and again a new DVD drive ($30–$70), if reading audio CDs is important. Everything else (except the camera) works?
About the iSight: Make sure the cable is correctly seated and not broken. (See this tutorial on iFixit, step 12.)
The processor speed is not bad, with the slowest variant of this model has a 2.4 GHz C2D. You already got 4 GB RAM. (Should be enough, maximum would 6 GB on this machine.)
If you need some extra speed, you could consider getting a SSD, which will drastically improve reading things from the disk. Depending on the size of the SSD this will range from $100 to open end, but when it comes to a computer from 2008, you maybe have a 200 GB disk now? You can get SSDs with a slightly larger size from like $200, I believe.
You also could do a fresh installation of the system, but this isn't absolutely necessary, if you kept your system clean in the past.
(Just for comparison, I have a late 2008 Aluminum Unibody with also a 2,4 GHz C2D, 8 GB RAM and a fast disk and this is a very solid machine and still fast enough machine for all my tasks, including coding and image editing.)
I can definitely recommend replacing the optical drive with an SSD. I did this a couple of months ago with a 128GB SSD and it's been great.
I followed this tutorial to replace the optical drive with the hard drive caddy.... http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2010+Dual+Hard+Drive/11763/1
If you've got a 10.6 disk then you'll probably need an external optical drive to boot from. It might be easier (and possibly cheaper if you've not already got an external optical drive) to upgrade to 10.8 and follow this tutorial to make a bootable USB drive... http://www.cultofmac.com/180925/how-to-make-a-bootable-disk-or-usb-drive-of-os-x-mountain-lion/
Once you've booted from your OS X disk/usb drive you get the option to use disk utility. If you run disk utility you should be able to see both drives (SSD and HDD). I'd backed up my old HDD before so I just formatted both drives and installed OS X on the SSD.
Once it had built I restored applications, setting and some folders to the SSD from a time machine backup and then manually copied everything else onto the HDD. I've now got OS X, all my applications and my most used documents on the SSD and everything else on the HDD. I've been using this setup for a few months now and it's been brilliant. It boots so much quicker and all my applications run pretty much instantly but I still have loads of storage on the HDD.
Hope this helps!
USA assembled iMacs have been reported now by many sources. The Verge had a USA unit, so was iFixit's unit. (they have a closeup at step 3)
> Latest ATOM SOC for long battery life and passive cooling
> Direct3D 11.1 support (minimum) with decent 3D chip
the 32-nm Atoms start at 3.5W thermal design power and go up to 10W.
neither nVidia nor AMD make discrete ultra-low-power GPUs as far as I'm aware, only selling them as part of their SOCs. PowerVR makes the GPU design for the iPad; as far as I can find (an off-hand mention in a forum post) a quad-core PowerVR Series 5 chip has a TDP around 3W. the iPad chip is only Direct3D 9 dual-core, and you're asking for Direct3D 11. let's assume Direct3D 11 requires no additional power, and scale the power of the chip down linearly, so 1.5W TDP for a dual-core Series 6 chip.
the Tegra 3 has a TDP of somewhere around 3-4 watts (I can't find an exact number.) so, if you use the worst Atom processor Intel currently sells, and every assumption turns out optimistically, your tablet will consume 5W against an ARM tablet's 4W.
so you've got 25% more heat to get rid of. if you want to use the actual top-of-the-line Atom, you're up to 8W against an ARM tablet's 4W.
> 7" form factor
> As thin as the iPad 2
the iPad uses its case and screen to dissipate the heat of the electronics inside, and the majority of the inside is dominated by a battery. so you want to dissipate more heat from a package that's substantially smaller, and use more power in a device with less room for a battery to be in.
your ideal tablet would end up having a 2-hour battery life and getting incredibly hot to the touch. there's a reason why the Surface Pro has a fan, why it's 10 inches, and why it only has (iirc) a listed 6-hour battery life.
I fail to see how I fucked myself by quoting the amount I did. If this was a more current MacBook (for example, my MacBook Pro, pictured left), I would have quoted a helluva lot more. The LCD is as easy as popping the plastic bezel off with a spudger and unscrewing a few screws.
Seems to be around $35 from fleabay
Replacement steps here
Edit: Difficulty level hard. PDF Instructions Doc