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That thunderbolt poet should also double as a mini display port. Get a mini display port to hdmi adaptar.

Cable Matters Mini DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter (Mini DP to HDMI) in Black - Thunderbolt | Thunderbolt 2 Port Compatible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRK2ZIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UHPuDbEGK928F

You’re downloading the intel version of zoom. Rosetta is the “translation layer” that lets your non intel Mac run intel software in emulation. It’s fine/safe/free.

BUT: get the m1 version of zoom. It will perform better.

https://zoom.us/download

Daisy Disk is a perfect app for nailing down exactly what’s eating up space. It also shows the data in a really nice pie chart so it’s easy to understand and visualize. Pretty sure there’s a fully functioning free trial available on their website but at $10 it’s worth it to keep around and use anytime you’re low on space.

I use it all the time since my editing programs can scatter large cache files around or a folder has much larger files stored in it than I realized.

The user library folder is hidden in your user folder. Things like the mail app and iTunes iPhone/iPad backups plus other thing get stored in there which can take up space. Here is how to view the user library folder http://osxdaily.com/2016/12/12/show-user-library-folder-macos-sierra/.

Apple's Mac Basics is a great resource. It even has a section that tells you what you can do to replace your PC habits. (i.e. on a PC I used to... to accomplish this on a Mac I can...)

Internet Recovery might work, if the machine is capable and can be connected to the internet.

http://osxdaily.com/2014/12/14/reinstall-os-x-mac-internet-recovery/

Otherwise, use another Mac that has access to the Mac App Store to create a bootable USB installer.

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

That looks like the firmware password screen to me. If you didn't set one on purpose you can change it by removing or adding RAM to the machine and then reseting the PRAM. This link will help.

http://osxdaily.com/2009/10/19/bypass-mac-firmware-password/

It's hard to tell from the image; do you know what the connector is? It looks like it might be a DB-25 SCSI connector, which was commonly used by Macs in the 90s. If so, you could use something like this to connect it to a modern computer. Apple has been using HFS since the 80s so it should be readable.

Now whether the drive still works, or whether the data on the discs themselves is still any good, there's no way of knowing.

Assuming you don't hate glass covered screens, the display in the iMac is a tremendous value. The one in the 27" can sell for about $900-1k on its own (though better may be available for cheaper soon), and the base 27" iMac doesn't cost much more on top of that for some decently-performing parts.

Neither the mini nor the iMac will be as powerful as a full desktop being that they utilize mobile parts to maintain low heat production and small form factor, but the iMac is generally more powerful than the mini.

It really depends on your usage scenario. If you just want a clean appearance, but won't do more than browsing or basic office work, the mini will be a solid performer. You can also get monitors similar to that in the iMac but with extra bells and whistles aftermarket from companies like Dell and LG (the latter of which makes these screens). Consider also the $350 B-stock korean displays that PC gamers are raving about.

First, don't immediately judge the trackpad. Give it a couple weeks first. If you've never used a trackpad on a Mac before, it deserves a chance first. Give this article a readthrough and try out the gestures it suggests.

I'm not going to tell you that the 2009 model of the MacBook Air is the best computer ever; rather, it's an early implementation of a concept that wasn't really perfected (if you'll allow me to go that far) with the newer models.

The idea of the MacBook Air is centered around a computer that doesn't "cost" you anything to take it everywhere; it will fit in your bag, briefcase, or backpack, and you won't even notice it's there until you need it and pull it out.

My favorite OS X feature is Mission Control. You can read more about it in this article.

Sounds about right.

The logic board for the Mid 2011 MBA costs $500. It's the main circuit board inside the computer and houses the CPU the graphics card and a bunch of other stuff. It's probably what fried and is, basically, the entire computer.

Then the extra $255 is for the service and in case anything else (the hard drive, the screen, the ram, the speakers, the trackpad, the keyboard, etc) was damaged.

Liquid damage sucks. Soon enough we'll have completely waterproof devices. Until then, it's best to not drink and compute.

OP - There's several ways:

Easy way: plug in an external display/kb/mouse & close the lid. Clamshell mode, as others have suggested.

Almost Easy Way: Target disk mode is pretty easy, but requires a whole other Mac, plus a Thunderbolt or Firewire cable (ask grandpa what those are)

ssh: if ssh access is enabled already on the Mac, log on to it from memory (blindly type username/password or just password after turning it on, depending on how you have the Mac's security configured) so it opens a session and connects to wifi. When it does, look in your router to see what the newly added device's IP is, and ssh into it from another computer using that IP address.

Screen Sharing: just like above, but requires having screen sharing enabled already on the Mac, and having another Mac, as with Target disk mode.

Bottom line is clamshell mode is dead easy. and from the picture it looks like you already have a screen & keyboard. Target disk mode is very easy too, but you need another mac plus a special cable. ssh is great because it's powerful and agnostic, but it would have had to have been enabled previously, and screen sharing (or vnc) is good, but it also would need ot have been enabled.

I have 10+ years owning a mac tech support business. Here's what you need to know. These steps will solve 90% of the problems you will encounter.

1. Repair disk permissions using Disk Utility.

2. Start up with a safe boot by holding the shift key. (checks filesystem, rebuilds some caches, etc...)

3. Clear user caches at ~/library/cache

4. Use console.app to check log files for any errors.

5. Use Activity monitor to track down apps using up too much processor/memory.

6. Use DiskWarrior to rebuild and optimize HFS+ directory.

7. Use iDefrag to defrag, with Metadata only algorithm selected.

8. Onyx is great for solving some of the more obscure issues.

Ok, there is a good chance everything is going to be ok. I think you just need to recover the deleted partition.

First, do not write anything to the disk. Anything copied to the disk could replace the data you are hoping to recover.

Next, try Testdisk. It has a great reputation and I have personally used Photorec to recover accidentally deleted files.

Good luck!

Robinhood is a stock trading app: https://robinhood.com/us/en/

Someone is probably trying to use your phone number to login, but shouldn't be able to, if they don't have access to your text messages

Is this what you're looking for? Should be a system-wide shortcut.

http://osxdaily.com/2014/09/29/type-superscript-subscript-text-pages-mac-os-x/

That's simply... not true. Apple's benchmarks are probably the most realistic in the industry. They even voluntarily lowered their advertised battery life to make it more in-line with how people actually use their devices.

Unless you're playing Flash games, the single largest consumer of power over the long run is the LCD backlighting. By turning down your brightness to 50% and avoiding Flash (ClickToPlugin is your friend), you'll easily get pretty close to the 7 hours advertised.

You found no way because it's not a useful idea.

Just charge it when it's connected and don't worry if it's charged to 100 %, that won't hurt the battery at all. Just make sure you use it on battery from time to time.

https://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html

Try a utility like DaisyDisk or if you're handy in Terminal you can probably figure out what's using all of your disk space with the 'du' command

AV Comparatives does a regular tool-review/analysis here: https://www.av-comparatives.org/mac-security-reviews/

> "I'm currently running a Macbook Pro with El Capitan"

If it's capable of running Sierra.. you should update it. Major releases of macOS contains lots of security fixes. NOT updating and expecting 3rd party products to protect you is a little faulty logic.

As others have said.... scanning with Malwarebytes is a good start. "CCleaner for OSX" is also good (although it's not an Anti-infection tool.. it's just a Disk/Temp cleaner.. but still a good idea)

Many of the large vendors offer free scanning tools. I'd look at ESET, Sophos, ClamXav, BitDefender, Comodo, Mcafee (Intel),

I couldn't understand that either. Office for Mac 2016 is compatible with OS X 10.10.x for sure. I just checked Open Office out of curiosity and it says 10.10. (Yosemite) quite clearly:

https://www.openoffice.org/porting/mac/

1. Remove old drive, install new drive
2. Hold R key while booting to access recovery partition
3. In recovery partition click Tools in menu bar at top, select Disk Utility
4. In Disk Utility select SSD, click Erase give it a name (Macintosh HD, Macintosh SSD, My Awesome New Drive, etc). Erase.
5. Close Disk Utility
6. Do an internet restore, reinstall OS on SSD.

Optional: Use SATA USB adapter and migrate / copy profile and file information.

Once fully installed and you're back at the main OSX screen:

1. Go to Applications -> Utilities and open Terminal
2. Type sudo trimforce enable.
   
3. Enter your password, reboot when prompted.

This enables TRIM, which isn't entirely required but may be helpful (and costs you nothing).

Since last year you get the Mac versions of this applications also for free if you buy a new Mac.

I guess the battery is faulty. Normally if you run out of battery it should still have some reserve charge left to keep some data (in this case the correct time), for some time.

You can try to 'calibrate your battery', and/or do a SMC reset or PRAM reset.

Also, you can option + click the battery icon in the top menu bar, it should say the condition it's in. Normal is what it should say.

You can also try a battery app to read out your battery's statistics, like Coconut Battery. It's more detailed.

Otherwise get it looked at by a professional / at Apple, especially if you have warranty.

This issue occurs if the computer was registered with an Apple ID that was different than the one you are attempting to reinstall with. I'm not sure if this is deliberate on Apple's part, but using the original Apple ID seems to solve the issue for people.

Failing that, you will need access to another Mac. You can use DiskMaker X to create an installer out of an external drive and a copy of OS X downloaded from the App Store.

It would probably by easier if you told us why you suspect this. Then launch Applications -> Utilities -> Terminal. Enter the following:

launchctl list

This will give you a list of everything that OS X starts up on boot. Anything you don't recognize or suspicious looking?

Next, System Preferences -> Users & Groups -> Login Items tab. Look for anything suspicious or anything you didn't install.

Finally, Applications -> Utilities -> Activity Monitor. Make sure to select All Processes in the drop down menu beside the search box. Check there for processes for apps that you don't appear to be running in Finder. There aren't many Mac keyloggers so finding one shouldn't be too difficult if there is one.

Contact support and, MORE IMPORTANTLY, figure out how they changed your password. It's probably worth changing your email passwords and any other account passwords that match your old iTunes info.

The exact same kit on Amazon is $127.

The price on eBay is WAY, WAY less that that and this should be a big fat red light.

The description is also wrong since these are PC3-12800 RAM. Maybe it's some old stock with older RAM? Seems too good to be true.

Keep it away from rice. Rice can get inside the keyboard, air vents, etc. I have no idea why "put it in rice" became the internet's favorite advice. It's terrible advice.

I did the towel and fan trick here, and it partially worked. Initially the mac wouldn't boot; after 24 hours of towel and fan, it booted, although the trackpad still needed replacing:

http://osxdaily.com/2014/04/13/water-contact-macbook-prevent-liquid-damage/

http://cdn.osxdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/save-macbook-water-damage.jpg

From this article - http://osxdaily.com/2016/05/26/download-photos-from-icloud/

Here is how you can download ALL photos from iCloud to Mac or PC:

Go to iCloud.com and login as usual, and then go to “Photos” as usual Choose the “All Photos” album Scroll to the very bottom of the All Photos album and click the “Select Photos” button in the top of the iCloud Photos bar Hold down the Shift key and click on the very last picture in the album, this should select every photo in the All Photos album as will be signified by the iCloud Photos bar saying “WXYZ items selected” Now with all of the photos selected in iCloud Photos, choose the blue “Download” button at the top of the iCloud Photos bar Confirm that you want to download all of the selected photos (this can be hundreds, or thousands) and click on “Download”

You would probably have to get into terminal from the install screen and use one of these: http://osxdaily.com/2017/05/18/access-terminal-recovery-mode-mac/ https://stackoverflow.com/questions/28685156/shell-command-for-getting-mac-address-in-os-x

Short of that, your wireless card should actually have the MAC address printed on it if you take the bottom case off and look.

You probably need to search for files that are large to see which ones on your system are making the current backup so large.

Here's a tutorial on how to search for files by size in OS X.

Guessing you had a large file that backup up a bit ago and now has been changed so it needs to be backed up again.

BTW: You have a Airport Time Capsule which is the official name. Helps to call things by their correct name when asking for help.

Any modern 2.5" SATA drive will do, but for best performance, make sure to get one that supports 6.0 Gbps.

Oh, and here are the iFixit replacement guides for the 13 inch model and the 15 inch model, in case you needed them.

Any other questions, don't hesitate.

You don't at all need to pay Apple a ridiculous amount of money for a replacement drive. They choose different manufacturers for different models that they have worked closely with and have approved, but they are no different than what's on Newegg. For example, my MBP came with a 250GB Seagate Momentus 5400RPM drive, but I replaced it with a 500GB Western Digital Scorpio Black 7200RPM drive with no problem whatsoever just last week. As an added bonus, I was happy to get a nice performance increase from the higher RPMs.

Assuming the drive is completely dead and you aren't going to hire any type data recovery service for it, you'll need the OSX install disc to get back to square one. Follow the instructions from the other posts about how to replace the drive, then boot to the install disc and away you go. There's really nothing more to it.

Hi Jackie,

Someone else might be able to give a more simple answer. I'm mindful of the fact that you're really new to Macs, so I hope my suggestion of using the Terminal isn't too scary. I'll try my best to walk you through it.

I'll start with your second question: >how do I completely uninstall an app or completely delete a game?

The easiest option is to use an app like AppCleaner, which is free. It finds preference files and folders installed by an app, which are usually left behind when you delete the app.

In terms of the file save location, for Safari downloads you can set it in Preferences>General>"Save downloaded files to:".

To change where screenshots are saved to is a (tiny) bit more tricky. There are instructions here that should help. (You'll need to press return after entering each command.) To open Terminal, click the Spotlight magnifying glass in the top-right of your screen, and type "Terminal".

The part you need to change to choose the folder is the "~/Pictures" command. (~ means your home folder: if you open a Finder window, that's the folder with the icon of the house in the left sidebar, with your account name next to it.) So this command currently changes screenshots to be saved into your Pictures folder. You can change it to any folder name you'd like, for example "~/Documents/".
(N.B. Note the slash after the folder name.)

Do let me know if you need any more help or clarification.

You would probably have a better experience by doing a clean install of Yosemite. I would try that first.

Regarding the browser, I hope you use Safari. Google Chrome is known to be pretty slow/power hungry. (Not slow to render webpages, but it makes the computer slow.)

Regarding startup speed, it might be an old disk working a bit slower now because of corrupted blocks or similar. Perhaps buy a new HDD or SSD?

But yes you could install 10.6 again, but you will probably need to to a complete wipe of your disk. At least wiping your disk is what I recommend. You could have a look at http://diskmakerx.com to create a installer USB, but the easiest would probably be to use original DVD install media.

Disk Inventory X is a solid program.

I personally use Grand Perspective http://grandperspectiv.sourceforge.net

Within both programs you'll see a visual representation of your hard drive, and what is taking up space. If you backup iOS devices to iTunes, you'll likely find MobileSync is using a good amount of space.

I'm going to take this opportunity to be a dick (a correct dick, mind you) and say: Always have at least two copies of your data at all times. Always. Invest in another hard drive or Crashplan or Dropbox.

Solution: Use Photorec. It's a sub-program of Testdisk.

Don't read or write anything to that drive. You'll need another working computer with extra space. Connect to that harddrive somehow and run Photorec on it. It will take a long time but it'll find all photos and media files.

Good luck!

Don't pay to clean it up. If you have the OS X disc, you can perform a clean install yourself. Boot into the disc, wipe the HDD with Disk Utility, and then reinstall OS. Just make sure you back up your necessary files.

Max out your RAM, but if you really want to see a performance increase you're going to need to upgrade to a SSD. Check if your specific model is compatible with SATA-2, and if it is, consider picking up one of these.

I have a late-2008 MBP (first unibody to come out), I maxed my RAM at 8GB and my HDD failed once. Apple replaced it with another HDD and within a year I noticed the same symptoms from the previous fail. I bought that 256GB SSD and my computer's running better now than fresh off the factory in 2008.

As for physically cleaning, buy the tools necessary to open the shell and get yourself a bottle of compressed air. Go slowly. You'll save yourself a nice amount of cash

iFixit is your friend. Search around and find a guide that shows you how to open it up completely.

Your best bet is probably virtualization with an actual copy of Windows 95 or 98. It looks like VirtualBox supports 98 and NT, and it's free and relatively easy to use. You'll need to dig up an old Windows CD or otherwise obtain the OS.

VirtualBox is Intel-only. If you're still using a PowerPC MacBook, Q (QEMU) is probably your best shot, but it isn't exactly polished software.

I will probably get downvoted for this - but it amazes me how little precaution the average consumer takes to back up their data. If your digital data does not exist in two physically separate places, it simply does not exist.

For now: http://www.prosofteng.com/products/data_rescue.php For the future: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1427

Dump your recovered data into a new user on your new internal HDD, and do a Time Machine backup immediately. Backup to an external RAID which uses RAID 1 or RAID 5 protection (RAID 1 would be fine for your purposes). For pennies per gigabyte, you can have complete peace of mind when it comes to the integrity of your data.

PM me if you want me to price out a solution for you off Newegg. Good luck!

Don't use the same Apple ID for everyone.

Create everyone their own ID and use Family Sharing. That solves this and a lot of other potential problems.

(Besides that, you can disable automatic app downloads on each device in the settings.)

Syncing will replace what’s on the iPad with what is on the computer. Instead go to the File menu, and select Devices>Transfer Purchases. Be sure to authorize the computer using the AppleID the songs were purchased from the iTunes Store under. Or if they weren’t from the iTunes Store, use iMazing or TouchCopy or any number or alternatives to browse the contents of the iPad and recover the songs to your Mac or PC.

Connect via USB instead

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07W7YQT4S?tag=audiodirect-21&geniuslink=true

theres USB C version too.

It's not cheap but that's Apple for you.

Or get some bluetooth headphones?

This Article may give you a better understanding of why the Mac Firewall is turned off by default. The summary may be a bit cryptic to someone who's new to networking science; There aren't any remote services (and therefore open ports) turned on by default (aside from Bonjour).

I'm not sure if Night Shift can be disabled on a per-application basis. But f.lux, which is a third party version of Night Shift that has been around for many years (far longer than Night Shift), can be disabled automatically for applications that you specify.

Yep, sounds like if you use a non-retina external display a lot with older hardware you may not want to upgrade to Mojave

OR, here are some things to try:

http://osxdaily.com/2018/09/26/fix-blurry-thin-fonts-text-macos-mojave/

Official word on the Apple website is that they're maintaining both as well as iTunes Radio. In fact, they are competitive as Match is the music you own in the cloud and Music is the music you own in the cloud + music someone else owns in the cloud.

I'm probably going to download all of it and re-upload it to Music. € 2,50 a month (€ 30 a year) seems like not too bad of a deal compared to € 25 a year. Starting a little family of my own obviously. :)

> With an Apple Music membership, your entire library lives in iCloud. We compare every track in your collection to the Apple Music library to see if we have a copy. If we do, you can automatically listen to it straight from the cloud. If you have music that’s not in our catalog, we upload those songs from iTunes on your Mac or PC. It’s all in iCloud, so it won’t take up any space on your devices.

Apple

I'm an Apple employee, but I'm not one to push Apple products for all situations. The nice thing about Apple devices, is for the most part they just work. If you're looking for a right out of the box easy to use device with almost everything you could want, the Mac is it. If you purchase the refurbished Air, you will receive Pages, Numbers, and Keynote for free. Our answer to Word, Excel and PP. You're able to export to Microsoft formats and for the most part it works well if you need to export as a .doc or .docx

If you're familiar with Office, it's basically the same as office 2010 for PC's with some changes to menus and some different features. The one big thing that I would say puts iWork ahead of Office, is it's direct integration with iCloud. If you're bad at saving things lke me, it really helps.

The Air is also incredibly portable if that's your thing, and they newer Air's have really good battery life. When you're at home working on your stuff, it's also possible to run it in a workstation like setup with an external monitor, keyboard and mouse, and also have the laptop shut so it's not open and in the way.

If you do decide to buy a Mac, here's some of our kbase articles that should help in making the OS change a bit easier, as there are some big differences. Mac Basics

These devices have a specific operating temperature.

From Apple's website: "Your device is designed to perform well in a wide range of ambient temperatures, with 62° to 72° F (16° to 22° C) as the ideal comfort zone. It’s especially important to avoid exposing your device to ambient temperatures higher than 95° F (35° C), which can permanently damage battery capacity. That is, your battery won’t power your device as long on a given charge. Charging the device in high ambient temperatures can damage it further. Even storing a battery in a hot environment can damage it irreversibly. When using your device in a very cold environment, you may notice a decrease in battery life, but this condition is temporary. Once the battery’s temperature returns to its normal operating range, its performance will return to normal as well."

So you doing the less than ideal thing of putting it in the freezer likely caused the fluctuation in battery reporting.

Did you get a temperature warning on the phone when it was hot? This will occur because the device has a protocol in place to warn a user if it exceeds that operating temperature. If you didnt see this, then there was no reason to worry about how hot the phone got without looking at some other causes, like usage report in the settings app for battery and standby or a runaway app, location services, a case on your phone causing excess heat, etc.

Here's Apple's battery page for reference:

https://www.apple.com/batteries/maximizing-performance/#ios

I would have not done that. I try as much as possible to run only native arm64 apps on my M1 Macbook. I would have canceled, delete this version of zoom and download again the Apple Silicon (arm64) version of zoom https://zoom.us/client/latest/Zoom.pkg?archType=arm64

System preferences > security and privacy > general, should be an option at the bottom to allow apps from unidentified parties. I haven't been there in a while so the options may have changed.

Edit: Here is a link on how to get a potential 3rd option under general under macOS. Terminal commands are used so use at your own risk.

Edit 2: I ran the command thats linked and it works. Don't know if will help but it didn't break my Mac.

I'm assuming you're on a Mac, in which case there is an on-screen virtual keyboard you should be able to get to in System Preferences. You should be able to turn Caps Lock off there.

If this is an issue because your caps lock key won't work at all, you may wanna call an Apple Store and see what they suggest; if there's one nearby they can run diagnostics on your device. I think there are some over-the-internet diagnostics they can run remotely as well? Best call and ask.

Sounds like your GPU is failing. Same thing happened to my Early 2008 MacBook Pro, and currently there's a lot of people with the 2011 model having the same problem.

I'd suggest backing up everything you value to an external hard drive ASAP. You can prevent your Mac from using your GPU and instead have it rely on integrated graphics by using gfxCardStatus. Chrome relies heavily on GPU acceleration, so you may need to use Safari or another computer to download the app. It should hopefully eliminate crashes, but will noticeably reduce performance in graphics intensive apps.

You'll likely need to replace your logic board, which is the most expensive component in your Mac. :-( Take it to an Apple Store after you back everything up to be sure.

Run MalwareBytes, do whatever it wants you to do, install all your software updates, and install AdBlock Plus in every browser you have installed on your Mac.

Actually, it's an intentional design flaw. Not sure if you have Apple alone or RIAA to thank for it, but it's basically always been that way.

There are a number of utilities floating around that claim to be able to restore your music off an iPod. I've successfully used Senuti in the past at least once.

In my experience, they use track length to figure out what song is what, so as long as you don't have a bunch of songs of exactly the same length, they can probably do the trick. (As a counter-example, my dad's iPod is filled with 30 second bird calls. Thousands and thousands of 30 second bird calls. No way in hell of ever extracting them back out.)

There are a lot of reasons not to use Chrome, but that complaint about Safari is a common one. Try the AllPagesZoom extension.

https://www.apple.com/mac-mini/specs/

The current retina iMac has a discrete AMD video chip. The current mini either has Intel HD 5000 or Intel Iris, and apple lists max resolution at two current thunderbolt displays. Apple has underrated max resolution and max ram etc in the past, but I doubt the current mac mini qualifies for DP 1.3. It doesn't say on their site.

My opinion is revised: even if apple releases a discrete 5k display, it probably won't work with your mini anyway. The only reason to wait would be them becoming available on the used market from people with mac pros upgrading. There aren't that many mac pros out there.

Varying heat conditions and subsequently varying pressure? I think this is a good guess; OP, maybe just pop open the undercarriage and compare it to the factory condition... 13 inch version, 15 inch version.

You can disable spotlight. But disabling shadows and transparency wouldn't be too useful, the GUI is rendered completely in the graphics card.

Apple hid it with the release of Lion. Don't ask me why. Likely to "protect" consumers from themselves.

Go to Terminal and type: chflags nohidden ~/Library/

Here is a detailed guide on how to get it back: http://osxdaily.com/2011/07/22/access-user-library-folder-in-os-x-lion/

Your drive is most likely HFS+ formatted, a format that Windows does not support. Programs such as this should help you be able to read (but not write to) the drive on a PC.

Not sure where the dmg came from, but I would do this:

If you have access to another Mac, you could log into the App Store with your iCloud credentials and download El Capitan. After that, download DiskMaker X to build a bootable thumb drive installer out of the El Capitan download from the App Store.

I'm not sure why it happens, but I do know how to fix it. Open a Terminal window and paste the following: /System/Library/Frameworks/ApplicationServices.framework/Frameworks/LaunchServices.framework/Support/lsregister -kill -r -domain local -domain system -domain user

Source.

EDIT: Or, if you're not comfortable with the command line, use Onyx to rebuild launchservices (Maintenance > Rebuild > launchservices).

Ah, yes, that makes sense. I did some googling on your behalf. Seems to be a fairly common issue. I found this program: http://www.madrau.com/whatis/whatis.html which might help you (shame it's not free).

Hopefully someone else has a much better answer.

EDIT Also found this one, which is free: http://www.charcoaldesign.co.uk/shades

rEFIt hasn't been updated in five years, and its author now recommends using the active fork rEFInd instead. If rEFInd still sees this phantom boot loader, it is extremely customizable.

According to the Software License Agreement, no, it is not legal to torrent Mavericks. See section 2H:

> you may not make the Apple Software available over a network where it could be run or used by multiple computers at the same time. You may not rent, lease, lend, sell, redistribute or sublicense the Apple Software.

> I clicked on an option called "GPT" while on Windows

This reformatted the hard drive... :(

If you want to recover whatever data was on the drive, your best bet at this point is to try to locate your lost partition using TestDisk.

Otherwise, you can simply use Disk Utility to erase the drive as exFAT. This won't get any of your data back, but it will make the drive cross-compatible between OS X and Windows.

Mac Mini Dual Hard Drive Kit - iFixit : http://www.ifixit.com/Apple-Parts/Mac-Mini-Dual-Hard-Drive-Kit/IF171-005

Installing Mac Mini Mid 2011 Dual Hard Drive Kit - iFixit : http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-Mac-Mini-Mid-2011-Dual-Hard-Drive-Kit/6634/1

3 - You can use the copy of Lion that came with the mini.

This link specifically: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repair/Installing-MacBook-Unibody-Model-A1278-Hard-Drive-Replacement/816/1

Keep in mind you'll need a Torx T6 screwdriver to remove the pegs the drive is secured with. Don't try and use a different screwdriver, you'll just strip the screw. Other than that if you've done any kind of computer repair or upgrade you should OK with this job.

Many college require an antivirus of some sort before you use their networks. OS X has a very sophisticated set of tools built right in to monitor your computer and protect you from threats of this nature, but some colleges are don't accept that as enough.

The reason for this is that OS X only protects against threats to OS X systems. It could care less if you're passing along a file with a Windows virus in it.

Most Anti-Virus programs are a real pain in the ass, which is one of the big draws to the Mac in the first place. But if you really must have one, ClamXav is the one I recommend. It's light-weight, unobtrusive, and can be deleted with a single drag to the Trash.

What app is your school offering for free, just out of idle curiosity?

I would consider installing Little Snitch to monitor all network traffic ( https://www.obdev.at/products/littlesnitch/index.html )

Also .. enable Two Factor on her AppleID. (and/or any other important accounts she may have (https://twofactorauth.org) such as Google, Facebook, Twitter, etc,etc.

Get organized.. and buy a Password Keeper (such as 1Password).. and start storing/organizing all your Passwords in there).

There are two things I've used in the past with users who had similar problems (one disabled, one damaged too badly to input passcode):

http://www.easeus.com/mobile-tool/iphone-data-recovery-pro.html

http://www.macroplant.com/iexplorer

Edit: I should have mentioned, I have iExplorer on my computer, and I can get into my phone and copy pictures without entering my passcode at all. Now, my phone isn't disabled, but it IS locked. I expect it would work for you too, and if not EaseUs iOS recovery software will, but I think it's pricier.

CarbonCopyCloner can also clone certain folders and has a nice GUI.

(Internally it works with rsync, so you could also use this directly, it comes preinstalled. Like: rsync -av /source/folder/ /dest/folder/)

> my entire family is on the same Apple ID

Just don't do this.

Create each person their own ID and then use Family Sharing to share apps and media.

There are two different approaches when managing photos:

• Via Finder, that's what you're doing right now. You can just drag and drop images to a folder. Where you place the folder is up to you, the default Pictures folder is placed in your home directory, so in /Users/YourUserName/Pictures, so not in Documents, but near it.

• Use the Photos.app to manage your pictures. You can import them into Photos directly from your camera or phone without using the Finder. But you can also add pictures from Finder to Photos. When doing this, the images are copied into Photo's library, so you can then remove the other copy in Finder. The images will be managed through Photos then.

To add photos from your Mac to your iPhone (or other iOS device), there are two options again:

• Open iTunes, select your device, go to the photos tab, and select from where to sync. You can select either the Photos.app or a folder.

• When you're using Photos.app to manage your pictures, there also the option to use the iCloud Photo library. (More details)

Dropbox is definitely the easiest method I know of for syncing files between your two machines. You can get 2 GB for free to see if it suits your needs, and 50 GB is only ten bucks a month.

There's also iCloud, which is Mac-specific. It gives you 5 GB free and costs the same amount to get 50 GB of storage, but I've personally found it to be a pain in the ass in various ways. Don't even bother with it if you want to sync to a Windows PC.

However, if all of your music and videos were purchased using iTunes, I believe those items will not count against your total data capacity with iCloud.

How "dead" is the mac? Can it power up, and just not boot? I had a dead MacBook Pro that could power on, just not run any software. Here is what I did.

I had to buy a cable to connect my old MacBook to my new one, It was a Firewire to Thunderbolt ( or something like that, can't remember exactly ) so it was $50 in cords.

I connected the computers. Then, I booted the old MacBook in Target Disk mode, so instead of it trying to run software, it became an oversized external hard drive.

I could browse the files on my new mac, and move over files as needed.

This article outlines what I did pretty well http://osxdaily.com/2010/04/07/how-to-boot-a-mac-in-target-disk-mode/

If we are talking about Fahrenheit, then 100° should be ok for storing.

The advised "Operating temperature" is "50° to 95° F (10° to 35° C)" (Source), so 100°F is not even much more, and should be no problem for storing the device.

Another article I found for an older model is quoting: "Storage temperature: -40° to 185° F (-40° to 85° C)", so you should be safe.

You may be in luck! Apple have a Repair Extension Program for your model and year, with the video issue you are having.

Check it here. If you can, take in into an Apple Store as you may get a brand new 15 Retina (No promises). And if asshole shop try to argue further, just mail it into Apple! :D

Hope this helps

Best option is to use a third-party program like iBrowse - you'll want iBrowse_Setup_1002.exe (this is the CNET download site and if your browser throws up warnings, push on through and get the installer as named) and install.

Before you connect your iPod, get iTunes and install it, then launch it and go into it's Preferences - go to the Devices pane and check where it says "Prevent iPods, iPhones and iPads from syncing automatically"

Connect your iPod then launch iBrowse and when it sees the iPod, go into the iTunes folder on the sidebar and dig into them until you get to a folder that has a ton of F00, F01, F02 etc.. folders inside it. In these will be the actual song files, they'll be labelled with four letters like CTYX, MPRQ, YGLM, whatever.. Copy the enclosing folder that had all the "F00" folders out of the iBrowse window into a new folder youve made on your desktop.

Do not worry about the fourl letter names on the files, that is the iOS database shorthand for them, their ID3 tags are intact so they have their full info still on them.

Once they are all copied into the desktop folder, you quit iBrowse and open iTunes and do the drag-and-drop of that folder into the Music library window. It will read the ID3 tags and you'll start to see the songs appear with full name, artist and album info.

If you have not backed up the iPod to the new machine yet, when you go to sync, it will wipe it and set it up fresh, so you will have to re-add the songs from your music library.

Good luck!

Apple has a way for businesses and educational institutions to do volume licensing which sounds like it would be beneficial in your situation. Details can be found on their website:

http://www.apple.com/business/vpp/

If you have any questions about how that works, I would recommend contacting their Enterprise department, whose number you can find on their Contact page.

https://www.apple.com/contact/

iTunes Match.

No seriously. Because every other system I've used requires that the computer be on and internet connected when you want access, which isn't likely for a laptop.

Alternatively there's Pulptunes, but that would work through your work computer's web browser instead of your iPhone.

No need to be a dick. I wouldn't thank you after that edit.

OP, Self Control works by adding the websites to your hosts file. This article will show you how to edit the hosts file so you can remove them manually.

It just means the batteries capacity has dropped below under 80 % (?) of the design capacity. You can get more details in  → About this Mac → More Info … → System Report … → Power. There you can see the number of cycles for your battery, as well as the capacity. But it's pretty normal for a battery this old.

Apple or a certified partner will replace the battery for you.

http://www.ifixit.com/Guide, Find your model/year and they will direct you to the correct place to buy the replacement batter since you have some know how. Apple Store are great when you have warranty but overpriced when out. Also just as a pro tip anytime you have water damage immediately turn the device off and unscrew the case apart and dip in 99.9 percent alcohol it will clean and dry the computer immediately and saves 99.9 percent of "water damage" issues. Source: 2 years at Apple and 2 years of other IT.

I appreciate the spirit of your comment, but I assure you I'm familiar with all the information you posted here.

I responded to the user based on many years of experience as a Mac admin, as well as the assumption that their machine, being a hand-me-down, is likely old enough that the restrictions EFI has allowed Apple to implement in recent years may not apply. Here's a (more or less randomly chosen) article about the improved security that mentions the tried and true RAM-removal method people like myself had relied on for years.

Cheers.

[edited to add the link I forgot!]

Assuming you are using Lion, I can offer you a fantastic program I use to keep my MBP running smooth. Onyx: http://download.cnet.com/OnyX-Lion/3000-18512_4-75531645.html

Also I made a video a while back on how to do some things in Snow Leopard: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFjR0X4FRPg

Every MMS/SMS/iMessage is stored on your device until you delete it. This includes all media sent or received as well (images, videos, etc.). You can delete the conversations by hitting "Edit" in the Messages app. This is in my experience the most common place that "Other" data is accumulated.

I doubt you have followed every step in the OSXDaily article. You should Restore your iPhone if you are still having trouble. If you restore from a backup then you may bring all of that "Other" data back when you do. If so, a Restore without using a backup will be the solution. You will set up the device as if it were new.

That's called 'vebose mode', and you turn it off by going to the terminal and entering:

sudo nvram boot-args=

Background info

In a way, yes. You can enable single application mode, which will limit OS X to only show one application at a time.

I would highly recommend doing all 3: SSD + RAM + OS Upgrade.

Check what RAM you need here:

Get any SSD that is in your budget (name brand at least). You will see a world of difference when running 10.9 or 10.10.

Have fun.

Edit: Upgrade clarify: 10.6 doesn't have security updates any more. Lion sucks as does ML. If you get an SSD you will need to build a bootable installer and put it onto a flash drive. This is good because you will have a nice fresh install of the OS. You can easily build one using this.

There is a technique of mapping sites to local host, using the hosts file. Hosts preference pane can allow you to fix it. Just delete those entries you don't want mapped to local host.

If you like Chrome but don't "trust Google". Try Chromium, the true open source version of Chrome. All of the functionality without the "shadiness" some people associate with Google products.

Make a clone of your hard drive using an external disk and Carbon Copy Cloner (free) or SuperDuper! (commercial).

I like Space Gremlin because it lets you exclude folders easily. A good free alternative that has a easy to use graphical representation is GrandPerspective.

I'm not sure if they can and will expand the warranty for that period, but at least you got 90 days of warranty for the repair itself. So if it fails again within this time, they have to fix it again.

1. Refurbs come with a 1 year standard warranty like all Mac products and you can purchase the same Apple Care protection as usual which is an extra 2 years. https://www.apple.com/support/products/mac.html
2. Accidents are not covered.

I think the others covered the rest pretty good.

> Reporting Suspected Phishing Attempts > > If you receive what you believe to be a phishing email purporting to be from Apple, please send it to , a monitored email inbox, which does not generate individual email replies. > > Forwarding the message with complete header information provides Apple with important information. To do this in OS X Mail, select the message and choose Forward As Attachment from the Message menu. For other email applications or webmail based services, consult your provider’s support information to determine how to forward messages with complete headers. >

Source: https://www.apple.com/legal/more-resources/phishing/

If you download the iOS beta and you have a supported TV you can AirPlay to it. Depending on your TV you may also have to sign up for a beta program with them:

Here are supported TVs - https://www.apple.com/ios/home/accessories/#section-tv

I have a VIZIO tv and I am currently streaming a movie from my iPhone to the TV