What are /r/techsupportmacgyver's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

>black keyboard >old computing history

You know those arestill for sale on Amazon, right?

Now if they'd taken a sander to an IBM Model M, the pitchfork and torch mob would already be at the gates.

A couple of ferrite chokes would probably fix this issue. They'll "choke" any RF coming off of the cable and stop it from fucking with wifi and bluetooth signals.

From one person having worked with the hell that is digital signage, I've got a better option for you that doesn't involve soldering...and will work with any IR remote.

We call this the magic remote control extender. Extend it out a couple feet and bounce the signal off the mirror.

They also make this pair - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723CYHPZ/ - which don't have the big antenna or mic. I have these and they're great. If you ever need something official and stealth isn't an absolute requirement, you may want to give them a look.

It's the password reset key. I'm in IT and it is useful for getting into computers that aren't cooperating with the domain (or whatever). You can do everything it does through command prompt, but it just makes enabling a local admin account so much easier.

I mean, there are easily found options online, I'm confused why you couldn't find one. But you already got a working solution so well done!

It’s being choked by the switch dock more than the dbrand skin. I gutted my dock and put it in a shell I bought from Amazon. Looks better, easier to travel with, and has an open back to the vents.

Here’s the Lunk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YVC3NJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c4lQCb1SKX4K9

Your dock has 3 or 4 different types of screws, all Phillips though. You’ll have to pretty much tear the whole thing apart.

Tell your Dad to just spend $12 and get a switch that has 10 times the bandwidth, and doesn't have collision problems a hub has.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Desktop/dp/B000N99BBC/

Here's a vertical mouse on amazon. They're pretty easy to find. Here's a keyboard like you're talking about.

That cdrom is 16 years old and still selling strong at only $55.00

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https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-MK40-Internal-Drive/dp/B00009V6OF

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I think they sold a version with a remote control aswell. The AT PSU is alarming though as it you're pretty much got an firebomb there.

> This is for a simple analog wall clock, so I’ll go out and get AAs once it starts to get out of time.

Get rechargeable AA batteries next time. I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

• New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace

Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:

• AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics

You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer.

mine isn't standard

It's this one https://www.amazon.com/PDP-Wired-Controller-Xbox-One-PC/dp/B01GOK30NI

Also I live on Argentina so buying something from another country has like a 10% chance of it arriving to my house

PD: don't buy that controller, not worth the money savings

Not sure where you are located but is something like this really that much more than Aliexpress?
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Stereo-Coupler-Female-30ST-STFF/dp/B000I963FE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3JK0LTUCTXVLJ&keywords=3.5mm+coupler&qid=1555937336&s=gateway&sprefix=3.5mm+co%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-2

I think this is MacGyver-esque enough, but have you heard about "Stereo mix"? Not all sound cards have this option, but it's a lot simpler.

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/39532/how-to-enable-stereo-mix-in-windows-7-to-record-audio/

iNet Vue?

Used to have to splice the connectors all the time to get them through vehicle 'glands'

Use these if you ever have to do it again. Certified by most suppliers

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Sopoby-Waterproof-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B01FI6IKG6/ref=pd_sim_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FI6IKG6&pd_rd_r=DWF69GRX7R25AVFCBARD&pd_rd_w=JcqNd&pd_rd_wg=3IOkx&psc=1&refRID=DWF69GRX7R25A...

Awesome idea. And for a little more money, you can get one that's been built for you https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-DC-DC-Converter-5V-to-12V-USB-to-xh2-54-Step-Up-Boost-Module/32326095193.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10091_10090_10088_10089,searchweb201603_1&btsid=23d409fc-3a7d-43fa-997e-a98e3a55d67e

I'm just going to leave this here...

TP-Link Omada N300 Outdoor Wireless Access Point - Waterproof, Dustproof, Lightening Protection, Seamless Roaming, Gigabit, PoE Powered, Free PoE Injector, Free Managing Software(EAP110-Outdoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG3YRTR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_513bEbXPP5Z7E

I have a (nice) set of terminal extractors for various automotive connectors that I spent a few hundred bucks on. 98% of the time I just end up using a t-pin instead, lol. Works better than the purpose made tool most of the time, and I don't have to search for the right terminal tool every time I work on a different connector.

If there is a USB port on the switch, get this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These fans are amazing. 1 of them keep my network equipment cool. Works like a champ.

This really isn't a Macgyver, but..

If you want an actual webcam using your (Android) phone download IP Webcam

Then you'll need a driver for your PC such as this

• Start the app on your phone and start the video stream
• Open the IP camera adapter configurator and input the camera feed URL displayed on your phone
• Set whatever application you're using to the IP Camera (Test in Open Broadcaster if you want for example)

Once you've got the stream working I recommend you play with the settings. On my Nexus 5 if I stream at a high resolution it drains the battery extremely quick and my phone gets scarily hot. Lower the framerate, resolution and quality.

This is what's printed on it. A colleague gave it to me to test and he's gone home already. So this is all the info I have.

I think I found it on aliexpress. Looks identical and in the description it says "Real Capacity: 18800mAh(package marked capacity is:30000mAh)". Definitely looks like a case of false advertising. And my test showed a result of about 11Ah which is even lower than the "real capacity" on the aliexpress page.

Nah, Walmart has one thing right and it's their box cutters. The EasyCut 1000. It's the size of a normal box cutter with a trigger that extends the blade out when you squeeze it. It has a dial for 4 different lengths that you want the blade to come out. (don't want your blade scratching your RGB ram) And it is attached to a holster by a stretchy rubber cord that clips to your belt.

Believe me, you want this knife.

It's an app called IP Webcam for android. It acts as a server and I can connect to it via a web browser (the screenshot) using the local IP on any device, provided they are on the same network. The screenshot was actually a live video feed from the phone's camera, which is pointed at the screen.

Thanks! Here it is on amazon...$85 with the handle. I want to use this for a portable build when I head out of town.

Their radios can't tune to FM. I'm not broadcasting on the channel the store uses for communication, I'm broadcasting on an FM radio channel. My radio will switch over to my coworkers' frequency if there's any chatter on that channel, then switch back to the (unused, in this area) FM radio channel I've got my audiobooks playing on.

I use this SDR. My handset has a scanning feature that could theoretically have done the job, but this allows me to survey a much broader spectrum much more quickly.

I am definetely not computer literate so I don't know but I just bought this from Amazon. It reads everything from the OBDII port such as revs, codes, speed, mpg etc etc.

Wouldn't you be able to use something like this to get all the data from it?

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 Car... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PJPHEBO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

r/assholedesign

But seriously dude, get one of these. I have a few in my house for similar reasons, and they're far more aesthetically pleasing than tape ��

Light Switch Guard Cover Plates Set of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PPG44X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fxgaDbHS1TENP

PCIE risers are a thing you can use. I did something similar, had to cut a chunk out of the back, but turned the graphics card sideways so the case could be closed.
https://www.amazon.com/XRP-Express-Extender-Flexible-Extension/dp/B008BZBFTG

Nope, it used to be pretty common in the UK for plugs to require user assembly.

Some users here also confirm this:

> "Before that time, almost everything (certainly everything I purchased) came without a plug and you had to buy a plug and wire it yourself."

Another commenter:

> I remember us having to wire up kettles, lamps, and irons when I was a kid. And you'd sometimes go to antique (or second hand) shops and come across old appliances that had no cord attached. Anecdotally, we bought an old style telephone that we then had to wire back up.

Ask your parents about it! My father (born in London in the '50s) confirms that he learnt about socket wiring at school because it was such a commonly needed skill.

I recently sorted through my parents' loft and found a really old, unused toaster and a kettle - both had all the parts of the socket shrink-wrapped and unassembled.

The chap in this video confirms this - and also says why, instead of merely being "Such a strange country regarding utilities", the UK's plug is actually a great idea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEfP1OKKz_Q

However, all this said, I have absolutely never had (or heard of) an electrical appliance being sold without a charger. This post is the first.

The worst I've seen is an American charger coming with an appliance - but I've always at least received a UK adapter for the plug.

don't worry dude, the other 99'11" of this line is still good, no need to rip it out

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518894673&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+kit&dpID=51DjZejC9oL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch should have everything you need for under $15 - will sort you out perfectly.

It took me about 20 minutes to learn to use the tools, and now whenever I need a short cable I can just make one. Boot split and frayed? Who cares, I'll just replace that bad boy, no throwing out the entire run for me. Drilling through a wall to feed a cable outdoors, how will the plug fit? No problem. So convenient as a future-proof ability to have under your belt.

Unsurprisingly, excellent instructions for dummies like me are incredibly prolific on the internet, including lots of great YT videos

As others have mentioned the interference from multiple unshielded cables right next to each other will be slowing your entire network down right now (loads of dropped packets and failed attempts), so I agree this is more /r/techsupportgore than MacGyver. Fix this right and everything will be significantly less laggy, plus you only gotta buy cheap tools once and then you're set to be able to make incredibly low price Ethernet lines wherever you live for the rest of your life

I'm not sure where you're getting the 320V. If he's in the USA line voltage would be 120v AC, which when rectified, a DC buck converter would take it down to usable levels of 12v DC used for a PC fan.

I'm not saying its a good way to do it. Clearly mistakes were made when building this, but maybe he only had a bridge rectifier and a DC buck converter as usable parts.

Use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Heavy-Duty-Four-Layer-Ventilation/dp/B0791V19H7/

It's cheap, safe, flexible and insulated.

Even if only cold air travels through something, it can still catch on fire for some other reason. Cardboard is just a big no-no in construction.

Couldn't you have used something like this, too?

https://www.amazon.com/C-Zone-Floppy-Earphone-Interface-Adapter/dp/B01KV029F2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1548427761&sr=8-4&keywords=front+panel+audio

http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Retina+Display+Mid+2012+Teardown/9462

• MacBook Pro with Retina Display 15" Mid 2012 Repairability Score: 1 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair).
• Proprietary pentalobe screws prevent you from gaining access to anything inside.
• The lithium-polymer battery is glued rather than screwed into the case, which increases the chances that it'll break during disassembly. The battery also covers the trackpad cable, which tremendously increases the chance that the user will shear the cable in the battery removal process.
• The display assembly is completely fused, and there’s no glass protecting it. If anything ever fails inside the display, you will need to replace the entire extremely expensive assembly.

That sure sounds like something that has 6 easy screws to fix. Oh yeah. Let me just wait 6 weeks for my DealExtreme mac screwdriver order to come in and then I can open it. Just one week per screw!

Bare metal wires, which supply power for the light in the background, part of a tension wire track lighting fixture; you can see one of the bulbs hanging behind the AP, from it's own rods. The bulbs can be slid and repositioned wherever you want, or add or removed the individual bulbs as needed, all with no extra wires visible, for a clean, modern, modular design. Just, you know, careful not to touch both at once.

The AP is insulated from the power bus bars by the fishing line, so it's not shorting across them, despite the paperclips. On the other hand, I have no idea how much interference it's seeing, being that close to unshielded power.

[Edit] Similar to this.

Please please please be careful charging that without a protection circuit. Those batteries are not meant to drop below 3vish and be charged above 4.2v. One of these will do you well. DZS Elec 10pcs TP4056 Charger Module Micro USB 5V 1A 18650 Lithium Battery Charging Converter with Overcharge Discharge Over-Current Protection Charging Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZXB17X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e4zpDbDWVVWKW

Sure you can. You just need a C14 (male inlet) to C13 (female plug) cord.

They exist and are quite common in server racks that use power distribution strips that have these C13 sockets.

Some older computers also had these power cables so you could connect a monitor directly to your computer instead of using a separate wall socket.

I think it has something to do with the clock signals. Could also be video related.

EDIT: turns out that is how the C64 gets the NTSC/PAL timing. see here

Ive never used a smart device to power stuff but was thinking.. huh, I'd just use a relay block. Then searched for one on amazon and it does exactly what OP wants for $13.

https://www.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/147-4718123-3515201?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0752P57ZG&pd_rd_r=f7708cbf-1228-4684-a3d1-0a3dbe456f05&pd_rd_w=RT9lY&pd_rd_wg=TCzk5&pf_rd...

It absolutely can be done: https://www.hackster.io/news/pci-express-on-the-raspberry-pi-4-9b03c59f7a04

But all that work to get just a single lane? Their USB3 implementation is pretty good, and if it did not meet my needs I’d probably look at something else. That said, hacking is fun so why not?

Actually there was some designer guy that was making table legs for sale based on this exact idea. This is his kickstarter. I thought it was pretty genius actually. You can have any raised flat surface and carry it with you, was the idea.

You need this bad boy of a remote.

Remote

I've really come to live love love the heavy duty velcro that they use to stick highway toll transceivers to the windshield (probably a lot of you out there don't live in toll states, but in Chicagoland if you get on a highway, you're going to pay for it).

It's made by 3M and it comes in sheets like 1x4" that can hold 10lbs to the wall. Instead of being a harsh sandpapery hook and soft fabricy kind of loop, each side is exactly the same. Made of harder plastic so it's firm.. The "hooks and loops" are instead just shafts with a knob on top and the knobs for each side push in between the knobs of the other and it makes a nice satisfying click sound. here's an Amazon link that might shed some more light. Don't worry this isn't an affiliate link or anything. I just legit love this velcro

It can be cut up into small pieces that would work perfectly for this application.. In fact I used it to hold up the sensor bar for my wii on the bottom of the TV. Once you connect it, it's rigid and stable (unlike regular velcro that cna allow a decent amount of movement or play especially as it ages).

Could not possibly recommend this stuff enough.

Should have just spent a few extra dollars on a good power inverter on amazon, $10 more but will probably not burst into flames on the interstate at 88 mph. I mean some of the stuff at HF is great and cheap stuff, but I would not trust air compressors or power inverters from HF.

I just checked. The power supply for my system costs $115.99 from Dell. The cheapest I can find one that looks like a knockoff on Amazon is $24.97. The cheapest I can find one that looks real on Amazon is $30.99. That is really pushing the limit of what I'm willing to pay. Why the hell would it be so much more expensive directly from Dell than from Amazon?

Looks like nothing more than a small heat gun. But for $120, you're not gonna get much of a "rework station".

This station has the same heat gun, but it's 10 times the tool for exactly twice the price.

As the imgur comments said the purpose isnt money why not donate the computing power to science and start folding with your heater?

https://foldingathome.org/

Keep yourself warm and toasty with the feeling of saving lives!

12 Bucks cambodian on amazon. Worked a treat for me.

yes, they are heat sinks used for mosfets, but are commonly sold as raspberry pi heat sinks, you can usually find them in packs of 20 for under $10 Usd

Amazon link but you will also need thermal tape, or an adhesive

Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape, 1-Inch by 60-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_XUNCub14B9Z4N

It never leaves a residue, sticks almost permanently to itself, and can hold quite well to even porous surfaces.

As in, the main logic board, with the CPU? This may work, but you'd probably have to find a logic board/mobo combo that came from the same phone. This white paper from Apple describes the security behind Touch ID (see pages 6-7). If the Secure Enclave and Touch ID sensor don't have the same shared key, they'll be unable to communicate.

It probably sounds like I'm trying to rain on your parade, but I really just don't want you to waste your money on a new logic board if it's not going to work.

Instructions http://www.howtogeek.com/139433/how-to-turn-a-raspberry-pi-into-a-low-power-network-storage-device/

The issue with dual usage is that it's not a powerful computer at all. I have a second pi connected to my tv for streaming with RasBMC and a hacked wii with wiimc. I also have the remote drive mapped in my windows and Linux computers for streaming. I haven't found a good iPhone app yet and android has been just as spotty.

I'm the Jr Admin, I have to explain my ideas to the Sr Admin first, who will then decide if there is any merit to it. Now even if he agrees, there's still a few people to talk to, who will google and find badly researched articles on TOR (and listen to them).

And then TOR could be blocked by the competitors (not likely, but more likely than blocking a huge IP block by a large ISP), as mentioned by someone else... https://www.torproject.org/docs/faq-abuse.html.en#Bans

I've been using caffeine for years

it simulates a harmless keystroke periodically, and I've never had any issue with the software despite being made by some random dude.

Raspberry Pi Heatsinks are very small

https://www.amazon.com/Easycargo-Raspberry-Heatsink-Aluminum-conductive/dp/B07217N5LS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=raspberry+pi+heatsink&qid=1605729458&sr=8-3

Wget is used to retrieve files from webservers, so he is probably using an app like this, which does not require root. However, if you feel familiar with a terminal, I'd recommend you to use adb instead of a server app like this, as it is faster and easily enabled by turning on Debugging mode in your Developer Options.

You can then use commands like adb pull <filepath> to pull files or folders to your computer, or push for the other way around.

I don't think the cart belongs to the store but to the individual in this case.

Something like this:

https://jet.com/product/detail/c7e87897a0604248ad2ba2a328b03d08?jcmp=pla:ggl:NJ_dur_Gen_Furniture_a2:furniture_office_furniture_workstations_a2:na:PLA_785111641_42704605860_pla-312566187973:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&pid=kenshoo_int&c=78511...

I have fond memories of sharing the one disk with games on it during lunch and after classes on the BBC Micro.

I remember a Barbarian game and one I think was called "Imagine".

I was a platformer game like The Humans but you started out as a wizard and could change into a cat, baby and some other stuff.

Edit:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3hYL7OAAL4

Here's one for $10, free worldwide shipping.

If you have an EU plug, here's one even cheaper. ($5)

Check out this link: https://www.shodan.io/search?query=IP+webcam+server+0.3

Might want to secure that webcam you have if it's carrying any sort of private or sensitive information. Total strangers can find your camera on the list and possibly abuse whatever is being shown (such as someone's address, and their "at home" hours to rob their house. Trust me. It's been done before. Please be cautious.

Hey guys. I'm the guy who made this. I am very much aware that this is not safe to run. Which is why I only ran it for a couple of minutes with a 2000RPM 120mm fan pointed at it when I was testing if the card still works. The reason why the VRM doesn't have a heatsink is because I'm going to be replacing the VRM with 2 of these. I will buy heatsinks for the VRAM if a fan isn't enough.

Dunno if it's what the OP did, but you may want to keep an eye on the Mate flavor that's pending.

http://ubuntu-mate.org/gallery/Screenshots/

I don't know how usable it is currently*, I haven't paid enough attention to it, but from what I understand current versions of Mate are everything that was good about the Gnome 2.x interface, and more...

Edit: I mean I don't know how usable the Mate Ubuntu flavor is - Mate, as I understand it, is generally quite stable and great.

Multiplicity

I am not 100% sure it would work with your set up, but it is worth a try.

I have used it for years and would never go back to a physical switch again.

This is the one I bought in 2015, still working but maybe there’s a newer model?

1byone TV Antenna, 50 Mile Range Amplified HDTV Antenna with Detachable Amplifier Signal Booster, USB Power Supply and 10 Feet Highest Performance Coaxial Cable-Black

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IF70T4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SBX8HW7MJDYET1GV2B7R

You can get Ethernet junction boxes for super cheap. It’s worth doing a proper job on that as it may start to give you packet loss. This is the type of thing: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Junction-Punch-listed/dp/B0059DRCGI/

Holy crap, I need some of that. The magnet that holds my in-cabinet garbage can shut just fell off its mounting and superglue won't hold it on. Got an Amazon link?

EDIT:

Google exists

Now that you have insane positive pressure add a washable filter:

https://www.amazon.com/Bgears-Cooling-Fan-Filter-120mm/dp/B00315PISU

I would have personally done a small python or perl script instead (that does exec out to xdotool or such though).

1. Identify the keyboards , note that you want very unique info (eg serial numbers) to help keep this sane.
2. Modify some things under /sys/class/pci_buss/$addr to find/autogen xorg ignore configuration (such that the key event can be bypassed to our script)
3. open/listen for events via /dev/input/by-path/$addr
4. Config file magic (I would probably just semi-auto generate a configparser ini file)
5. punt the new codepoint through xdotool. If that is too slow look up using CFFI to bind to the xcb library directly and send key events through there (look up how xdotool does it, perhaps even dlopen()'ing it and using its main() func...)

I don't know much about keyboard layouts, but if it is simple enough you could even create your own layouts (eg "emojji-0" through "emojji-10" instead of "devorak"): multikeyboard multilayout

The oldest entry in archive.org is Sept., 2000, and somehow it looked slightly better then. Design is almost completely unchanged since early 2002.

Monoprice's Select Mini is reportedly good (adequate overall, and excellent for $200), and there are others showing up at this price point. Very small print volume is the usual tradeoff.

If the battery is built in, fine. But don't make it inaccessible. And it's not just phones. Case in point, Tri-Wing screws? I've been repairing my laptops for years and I'm starting to run out of screwdriver space.

Window 7 it's easy, Win 8 a little more work but doable.

http://superuser.com/questions/499617/how-can-i-add-linux-to-the-new-windows-8-boot-manager

http://lifehacker.com/5403100/dual-boot-windows-7-and-ubuntu-in-perfect-harmony

Probably because

• .moe is a very new TLD
• This domain is very short
• The URL has very high entropy
• It's hosted by OVH in Montreal (OVH has had some interesting time with spambots, so their netblock often gets hit as being "malvertising"): https://www.shodan.io/host/192.99.5.79

My AV had no problem with it, and Shodan doesn't think it's a problem either.

Interestingly, My university connection routes it through Internet2, touching McGill in the process.

I'd prefer using something like Caffeine

http://www.zhornsoftware.co.uk/caffeine/

It simulates a keypress once every 59 seconds so it doesn't activate a screensaver, or lock. It simulates an F15 key up event, which is 99.99% likely that it won't affect anything (Most current keyboards only go up to F12).

I've attached disks to Windows machines in the past and explorer stopped responding. The exact same disk attached to a Mac produced much better results. /u/grelphy is heading in the same direction with the Ubuntu suggestion. Ultimate Boot CD is another option, lots of data recovery tools on there - you can boot it from a USB if you have a spare one. Try as many different operating systems as you can get hold of.

If you're over windows and need a long term solution you should try Power Toys https://github.com/microsoft/PowerToys It's made by microsoft and one of its features is remapping the keyboard I don't know if it will solve your problem but I would give it a try, for me it has been a super useful tool

What do you think of something like this?

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B017GQ7OEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FH48PW8WX7JW348EW0ZR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

My thought is I would rather have a higher efficiency solar panel and then use my own battery bank instead of paying for one that has a built-in battery and lower output wattage.

I realize this thread is quite old, but I found it searching for answers as well. And I found a solution! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K22VWS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FVZZ260CRD4BF7NG4J7S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 It will peel off at an angle, but you can pull it straight on and it won't go ANYWHERE. I am very happy with this

Fair enough. There are ways to mitigate it if you like using wireless mice. I'm with you though, wired all day. If the cord is annoying, get a mouse bungee (or even do some /r/techsupportmacgyver shenanigans with an edge of your monitor.(eg) IMO)

I went for something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GLOTRENDS-Universal-Aerospace-Aluminum%EF%BC%8CDIY-Adjustable/dp/B07R45QSFB

Edit: The bracket another user posted looks even better if it fits on the mainboard. https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupportmacgyver/comments/jmhll6/my_graphics_card_was_sagging_which_was_causing/gawve6d/ It does the job so far. As long as you don't carry the PC around all the time.

Hey thanks for the reply. Checkout the below Amazon listing images. You can see how I got confused on which is what I need

320pcs Laptop Screws Set for IBM Hp Sony Toshiba Dell Thinkpad Samsung Acer Benq https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0116YUMSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vkveybEE77BGP

Honestly still confused lol

If the repairs fail, you could purchase a replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/Alexa-Voice-Remote-Amazon-Stick/dp/B071D41YC3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531659390&sr=8-3&keywords=firestick+replacement+remote

Or find someone with a 3d printer

This looks like a good way for someone to get hurt by knocking the phone free and having it smash their feet.

A new phone is like $9 on amazon man.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005MITU/ref=twister_B00UROTAB4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics to the rescue https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-K001575-LCD-Monitor-Riser/dp/B01IFTYW3I/ref=sr_1_3_acs_sk_pb_1_sl_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546094834&sr=8-3-acs&keywords=amazon+basics+monitor+stand

Yeah I had no idea these were a thing either, I spent a long time looking for RCA breakout cables and eventually came across these. I'd imagine you can find them cheaper somewhere else, but I found them on Amazon:

Seismic Audio - SAPT532 - Pair of 1/8" 3.5mm Stereo TRRS Female to 4 Screw AV Terminal Balun Connectors - 3.5mm Female to Bare Wire Connectors

Conshine 2.5MM 4-Pole Video AV Balun, 2.5mm Stereo Male to AV 4 Screw Terminal Connector Block Plug 2-Pack

I've got you my man

I too was looking for motherboard and graphics cars storage, I ended up buying a shoe rack and it works perfectly. Its the perfect dimensions for motherboard boxes. I have three in the workshop

Pic... https://ibb.co/25S3y9m

This is the shoe rack on Amazon.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016OQQPA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vOIfDb5HSNDWJ

Honestly I'd be surprised if that wasn't a thing. In any case, at 12x 3.5" drives you're out of 1U server territory anyways and some of my points don't apply. You can definitely buy SAS backplanes that you could mount in a roomy ATX case and presumably hook up to a nice shiny RAID controller, it would all depend on your needs. I standby my point that all things being equal, a custom rig in a large tower case makes more sense than a rack server in 95% of home use cases.

What are you using that server with 14 drives for, anyways? That almost sounds like a big NAS.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.urbandroid.sleep in the alarm tones, there's options for playlists. Also has the wake-up math stuff mentioned elsewhere, but I like the flag matching one which is available in here

Nice! For things like the UPS, I opt for 2" industrial-strength Velcro . It's basically like double sided tape with a provision for removal. The Velcro is so strong you need to use something like a flexible steel ruler to remove the 2 parts, otherwise you risk separating the adhesive, or sometimes the surface it's stuck to.

Also, if you're consistent about how you place the hook-side vs the loop-side, you can swap out parts nicely.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Superior/dp/B00114LOMM

Thank you so much!!

Do you think something like this can work? Not sure about awg but it's the only one with 0.35mm. https://www.amazon.com/0-35mm%C2%B2-Electrical-Colors-Tinned-breadboard/dp/B08F7BMVJW/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3QYTE3F6PUL6R&keywords=copper%2Bwire%2B0.35mm&qid=1669302450&sprefix=copper%2Bwire%2B0.35mm%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-4&th=1&p...

Not being a jerk, just clarifying in case some wires got crossed…

They’re saying you take the grounding wire from where you attached it to your chair to a screw on the back of your computers PSU case, which is grounded, so you don’t have a loose wire running to the outlet like is in your picture.

Alternatively to that, you can also take the wire in your second photo and wrap it around the screw going through the faceplate of the outlet, it will ground that way. I’ve had to do that for ESD matts when I didn’t have a ground plug adapter to use like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071J61CSV/

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-9260NGW-Wireless-Bluetooth-Internal/dp/B088LHVYVF/ref=sr\_1\_3?keywords=asus+ax1800+pcie+wifi+adapter&qid=1665583617&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjY0IiwicXNhIjoiMC41NCIsInFzcCI6IjAuOTIifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=asus+ax1800+pci%2...

Could always try Ethernet over the power lines. I doubt you'll actually get gigabit speeds but it would probably be better than wifi.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-Extender-TP-Link/dp/B084CZMYNM/ref=zg_bs_1194444_sccl_2/144-5342010-0100149?psc=1

what about ethernet through powerlines? plug 1 adapter into an outlet near your router and one into an outlet by your pc.

http://www.cnet.com/topics/networking/best-networking-devices/power-line-adapters/

It won't keep you from getting letters but ditch uTorrent, it hasn't been ok in over a decade and has had crypto miners, ads, and malware over the years. Switch to something like qBittorrent or Transmission. If you don't want letters you'll need a VPN, I recommend Windscribe (what I personally use and it has extremely cheap unlimited plans) or Mullvad

Agreed.

As long as he inserts the brick fully into the power strip, the electrical connection is still good, even with polarized plugs.

I'd still use a short 3-prong extension cord, instead, because it's a waste of 2 power strip plugs when only one is needed.

Credit to u/rockerbox for the amazon link.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9MCTGL

I'll try and look later, I just find mine in ebay searching usb 3.0 sata at the time, but I found this style just now by adding internal https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-IUSB3SA6G-Type-B-Vertical-Adapter/dp/B00WQJ851O

There is better option for such old radios and it is casette adapter which is essentially a audio cassete case with a bit of electronics inside that simulates stereo magnetic track.

And reproduction is wastly superior to FM transmitter.

Bluetooth cassette adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Aluratek-ABCT01F-Universal-Bluetooth-Cassette/dp/B06XDDHXRN

Powered by integrated rechargeable battery and micro usb port.

Adapter, yes. But I'm not sure if it would meet your needs.

You can put one of these adapters on each end. The adapters each also need to be plugged into the wall.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-MoCA-Network-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B088KV2YYL/

here in the uk it’s £20 something on its own when you can buy one of these